Mistaya Lodge

We like Mistaya Lodge. It is comfortable, homey, roomy, efficiently laid out and welcoming.

My lonely skis on my day of rest

Lonely skis on my day of rest

Upon entering the doors from outside, we find ourselves in the boot room. An ample space for skiers to hang jackets, skins and store packs and boots and to gear up for a day of skiing.

The kitchen is large, accommodating the cooking that happens twice a day. There is cold pantry next to the kitchen to store items that require “refrigeration”. There is a small fridge but only milk, eggs etc get placed inside. There is a freezer in the entranceway for the foods that need to be kept frozen.

The main dining and sitting area is surrounded by windows looking out over the lake and mountains. The area is comfortable and the views ever changing with the sky.

Front window view

Front window view

The building is heated by one franklin stove type fireplace. S, our caretaker this week, keeps it fed so we are toasty warm.

There are two washrooms on the main floor, one in the boot room and one by the pantry. The toilets are composting toilets. The sinks have hot and cold running water.

Upstairs there are 5 bedrooms that sleep anywhere from 2 to 5 people. We are only 7 plus S so each couple and single person has a room to themselves.

There is a sauna building with two showers. A sauna and shower after a day out on the trail feels absolutely wonderful. And I am not really a sauna person, but I look forward to it every day.

There are 2 outhouses in case the lodge is full. There is also another small building that can be rented separately. It sleeps 6, has a kitchen and small dining area.

The lodge at Mistaya is a place where we will return.

Mistaya Lodge

Mistaya Lodge

 

 

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The Wind Scours

Off to the Whaleback. A place we have never skied before. But it looked good from across the valley so we are going to give it a try. It is an easy trek to get to the bottom and not too bad up.

On the trail to the Whaleback

On the trail to the Whaleback

The skiing is a lot different than the last few days, the wind has pounded the snow and it is quite compact and stiff to ski. It is still quite skiable and we lap many times over.

This is a slope made for beginner skiers. No trees. Well, maybe 2 in the whole area. The tree at the bottom is called Ron, named by a kid visiting. Easy slopes, but loooong.

Debbie has a hard time with the expanses, so I just tell her that it is the same slope as Snow Valley. She repeats that in her head as she descends. Her first turns are perfectly shaped esses. By half way down though she is tiring and the esses start to fall apart. She does well for a novice skier on the 4 runs she completed.

I stay and ski 2 more long runs, with J, after K and Debbie skin up and glide back to the lodge. We find some snow that is not wind affected and the ankle deep powder was great.

We are now awaiting our turn in the sauna for some heat and a shower. It is snowing and we will have some fresh powder tomorrow. Appitizers, supper, sleep and we do it again tomorrow.

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It’s Sunny!

Our third day, Debbie stays at the lodge to rest. Six of us head up the hill. Same slope as the last two days, Heather Ridge. We might as well trash it. We know it is safe and we thought we  should use it up before the sun makes it unskiable.

At breakfast, the avalanche danger was consulted and it was “considerable” on all levels. The group must be careful today. They want to ski the trees, which is more advanced than Debbie wants to ski, so she volunteers to stay at the lodge and have a rest day.

Every day the up tracking gets easier. Maybe it is us getting used to the elevation or maybe we are skiing ourselves into shape.

Glorious day. There was just enough high cloud cover to keep the snow good and it is clear as far as the eye could see. We keep making runs where we think the sun will thicken up the snow and the run is great. So we go up and try to beat the sun on the next run and again it is excellent. We do that until 3 pm and finally the last run down the snow as getting heavy,

Five runs and at the end of every run it is an easy decision to up track once more. A long day but a good one.

The alpine glow after a great day of skiing

The alpine glow after a great day of skiing

 

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A Typical Day at Mistaya Lodge

Some folks are early risers, some late. The early risers congregate downstairs by the fire, the warmest spot in the lodge in the mornings. Yoga, meditation, reading, waking up.

We are a self catered group, which means we have brought all our own food and prepare it too. The group has been divided up into small groups and each smaller group assigned a number of breakfasts and suppers to plan, purchase groceries for and prepare.

The group assigned breakfast starts their preparations and has a delicious breakfast ready for 8:00. The breakfasts range from yogurt, granola, fruit salad and toast to frittatas and bagels. The skiers eat heartily preparing our bodies for the exertions of the day.

During breakfast, the Avalanche forecast is consulted and a discussion of where to ski that day is had. The decision is made and everyone is in agreement.

Once dishes are done, lunches made (everyone makes their own lunch), we gear up and are out the door.

On the uptrack to Heather Ridge

On the uptrack to Heather Ridge

We climb, and climb and climb. Our skis have skins on them that prevents us from slipping backwards. Our toes are locked into our bindings but our heels are free. We can walk easier this way. We are breathing hard and our heart rates are up. About an hour later we almost reach the top of the “hill”, called Heather Ridge, beside the lodge. The trees have thinned out and there are pure white slopes, dotted with small trees waiting for us. We climb more and end up on what feels like the top of the world. The views in very direction are stunning.

Murray taking his skins off his skis at the top of the world

Murray taking his skins off his skis at what feels like the top of the world

We take the skins off our skis and prepare to ski down. Since J broke trail at the top, he gets to go first into the untouched whiteness. One at a time we swoosh and turn down the hill. We stop at the point where the trees start to thicken. Some of us stop there, skin up and head back up. The others ski down further into the trees, stop, skin up and head back up.

Almost at the top, we find a lunch spot and everyone sits for a break and lunch. Skis are laid on the snow, a sit pad is place over the skis, a hole is tromped down where your feet are, and there you have a nice little seat to eat at and enjoy the views. I say to the group that this is what my idea of backcountry skiing is. The sky is blue, it is warm and the view, well, it is amazing.

Our lunch view!

Our lunch view!

After lunch, we climb again and ski down again. Some make the trip down to the lodge and some keep going for more runs. By 4:00, everyone is back at the lodge.

There is a sauna here and we take turns in groups getting warm and showering. There are buckets of water heating in the sauna that we use for having a very quick shower. The system works well and it feels absolutely therapeutic after a hard day.

Another small group prepares appetizers and then supper. Stories are told, laughter shared. Dishes are cleaned up and we all relax until the eyes start to drift shut.

Another great day at Mistaya Lodge.

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Mistaya Lodge – Heli Day

Lousy sleep, don’t know why. I’m not the only one. At least 1/2 of us slept bad???

We woke to find L, daughter of J & C, was taken to the local hospital at about 4am with a pain in her side. The heli goes with or without them and they don’t make the flight time. Can’t do much about it.

Yesterday was a bad day for flying and a couple of groups did not make it into the lodges they were headed for. So today the heliport is busy. Somehow we end up on the ‘big bird’, the 212. This helicopter has a passenger capacity of 14. They took four seats out to carry gear. So with only 8 of us going in and 9 headed out they were able to do the exchange in one trip. There is a thin layer of fog over the river but once we lift above it was a clear and blue day. As it is only one flight it was about 30 minutes and more direct, right over the mountains rather than following the valleys. Over the mountain tops we go. Never been on the bigger heli and never been on such a long ride. It was definitely a trip for the record books.

View over Golden

View over Golden

After settling in at Mistaya Lodge we head out on the first tour. First we have a practice session with our beacons.

Waiting my turn to find a buried beacon

Waiting my turn to find a buried beacon

 

The up track exists to Heather Ridge and if we choose the right way down it is a mostly wide open and gentle slope. Perfect to get Debbie down on her inaugural journey into the backcountry. In control and patient turns all the way to the bottom. Only one crash and she is up and back on the skis in no time.

Our first ski day!

Our first ski day!

The new snow is a bit dense but very skiable and, in fact, fantastic. Looks like it is going to be a good week of skiing.

The helicopter we rode was new to all of us and Debbie had a first good run, the day is a success. Tomorrow we’ll head in a different direction, no trees at all and hopefully snow as good as today.

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Mistaya Lodge

View from the helicopter

View from the helicopter

What was good WIFI last year has turned into intermittent WIFI this year. I am sitting outside on the step of the small building that houses the router. We will try to post when we can, and will catch up once home.

Day 2 for me. It is gorgeous here up in the sky. Skiing is hard for me but doable. More to come…….

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Mistaya Bound

It is 5:00pm and we are in Golden, awaiting eight others before we helicopter into Mistaya Lodge in the morning.

In December, Murray and I started talking about me going backcountry skiing with him this year. I decided, in order to give this sport a fair shake, I needed my own gear, so over the next month I ordered and purchased all the gear I would need. Skis, bindings, skins, boots, poles – with a view to procure the lightest possible gear for my skiing ability. After all, we will be hiking up mountains with this gear on and then skiing down the same mountain. I purchased a transceiver, probe and shovel. And then I was extravagant and spent moola on pants, jacket and base layer. I am set.

About four weeks ago, Murray said to me that Mistaya Lodge would be the perfect place for me. The group he was already slated to go with had novice skiers in it and the terrain is very beginner friendly. He checked with J, the organizer, and there was a spot available for me.

Once my skis, bindings and skins were set up I did a practice ski at Rabbit Hill with the Edmonton Ski Touring Crew. Walk up the edge of a ski run, onto a path in the woods, up the hill more, across a field to the back of the chairlifts. Take skins off skis and ski down. Two circuits was enough for me that evening. Boots feel good so far.

Two skis with Murray at Snow Valley with my new backcountry skis to tune up my turns.

And here we are.

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Short Day

It is the day we have been waiting for – 28cm of new snow. Trouble is, it is only -1 and it is wet. Very wet. Travel will be hard and the only turns to be had will be on very steep slopes.
We have a destination in mind but is a long slog and will take a considerable amount of time and energy. Talking with A, the custodian, he suggests we stay close. There is a run called ‘The Ramp’ visible across the lake and has been skied a lot. It is steep enough to ski today and within ear shot of the lodge.

Travel across the lake is difficult so when we get to the slope we know we are in for a lot of work. It is a steep climb and moving is slow. About 30 M up a couple of the guys want to dig a pit. They do the test and are unhappy with the result so we scrub the mission. 6 maybe 8 turns to the bottom and our ski day is over.

Oh well. We’ve had a good 4 days and we are all pooped anyway.

Heli tomorrow and home.

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It’s Snowing

We get up and the snow has been falling for a few hours. There is more than enough to fill in our tracks from all the previous days. The ceiling is low so we decide to go to Christmas, the area we skied on Tuesday. We loose our up track about a tenth of the way up, but we have a better sense of where we are headed this time and only have to use the compass 3 or 4 times. Soon we see the little knoll we are looking for and up track right to it. You would think we knew what we were doing.

On the uptrack

On the uptrack

We want to ski south of the lines we did on Tuesday because on the way by last time it looked like some pretty good turns waiting to happen. They are. We are tired from the last 3 days on the slopes so we only manage 3 runs. But they are three outstanding runs. Even though a whole heap of kilo-joules of energy are put in for 3 runs it makes every turn worth it.

Blanket Glacier Lodge

E having a great run

The run back is interesting for me. The light is so flat we really do not know what we are skiing over. Two turns from the top of one of the pitches and I am in the air. Not my normal orientation. Then I am head first in the snow and a double heel release. Snow down my back, goggles around my neck and poles strewn behind me up the hill. Not the most graceful ending to a banner day.

It is still snowing and it does not look like it is going to stop anytime soon. Tomorrow could be good.

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Good Day, Bad Day

We are headed for Castor Peak. The up track was set 90% of the way 2 days ago and we want to see what is up there. The travel is easy and there are no decisions to make so we get to tree line much faster today. Maybe 2/3 the time it has taken the last couple of days.
At tree line the wind is strong and cold, the vis is about 0. We have just traversed some of the sweetest terrain we have seen so far this week. The executive decision is made. We’ll yo yo a couple of runs here and if it clears we will see if the peak is worth while.

Blanket Galcier Chalet

The first run is so good we skin up and do one more. The sky has not cleared so it is one more. Lunch at the bottom and hell let’s do another. In all we do 6 runs today. Not super long but fantastic each and every one. The area we ski was trashed by the heli skiers yesterday, but their tracks are filled in for the most part and we just find lines they had not used. Knee deep snow, 50 turns long. WOW!

The terrain around Blanket Glacier Chalet is outstanding. There should be something to keep everyone entertained.

I have had trouble with the ski/skin combination of my fat skis since I first started skiing on them. Today with the slightly wet snow and the well worn track I was slipping every second step. I need to buy wider skins that fit the width of the shovel. I am stopped on a slope, start to slide backwards, and fall. I snap and crack my pole against my ski. The pole is now broken. It’s our last run but even though using a broken pole is fine to ski with, it is real hard to push when we are skinning.

When we are almost to the bottom we realize we are a down a couple of drainages over from the one we need to get back to the lodge. Damn. Skin up again and crawl over a couple of ridges. Soon our up track is in front of us and we turn for home.

Good day, bad day.

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