Random Thoughts about a Road Trip

Australians and ditch camping. Oh ya there are caravan parks (campgrounds) and some of them occupy some prime real estate. Right on the ocean’s edge with a beach below but it seems it is acceptable to camp just about anywhere. We mentioned the camping around the tourist info buildings or at least on the adjacents streets. OK as long as it is no longer than 48 hours. There is also the true ditch campers. A small pull off on the side of the highway or onto a flat piece of unfenced land and it makes a dandy place to hunker down for time. Quite free form for us anal retentive North Americans.

Road surfaces – Most of the highways we travel are what I think Aussies call ‘sealed’. I would call it chipped. Asphalt with rock chips embedded in it to make for a hard, more durable surface. Boy is it noisy. We had to raise our voices just to be heard. The concrete stretches were less noisy but still loud and then there is the unsealed or asphalt sections that are absolutely noiseless.

The allotment of space for vehicles is much less then in NA. It is bad enough we have to learn to drive on the wrong side of the road, the Aussies allow us less space to learn. The lane widths are smaller, probably not much but it is noticeable and we have to really concentrate with the passenger giving verbal coaching when we drift too far to the edge of the lane. Parking stalls are significantly narrower. We don’t have room to be crocked so if we are not centered we back out and try again.

The speed limits are higher for the quality of road. We are ripping along at 100km/hr on a road that would be labeled 80 in Alberta and a new sign appears allowing us to do 110. No change to the road just the speed limit. They also have many changes to the limits. The allowable speed changes for many things, built up areas, schools, constuction whatever and they always put the ‘slow too’ sign on a downhill forcing the driver to use the brake instead of just taking one’s foot off the gas.

The traffic safety people have a fixation with driver fatique. There are so many signs saying, take a break. Numerous strategies are employed. There are signs with triva questions, mostly Queensland trivia that we did not have a chance in hell of knowing the answers too but we did learn the highest mountain is Queensland is Bartel Frere. There are ‘driver revivier’ stations, rest areas with free coffee when the booth is open. Every few kilometers there is another rest stop, not fancy but a pull over area to grab a snooze. The signs employ little rhymes or sayings to catch one’s attention. One particular piece of good advice is ‘Don’t sleep and drive’.

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The signage is quite poor. At every corner there may be a street sign telling you what street you are on, and what street you are crossing or there may not be a sign. Who decides where and when they are installed is a mystery. The direction signs showing what way out of a traffic circle (and there are many) you need to go are placed 3M from the circle forcing the decision to be instanteous and only maybe correct. Other highway type signage may or may not be there making driving a bit of a game for those that do not know the way.

The people are truly friendly. People on the street, cashiers in the corner store, the desk clerks at the hotel or the fellow renting cars are all friendly and have the gift of gab. Everyone wants to know where we are from, what we are doing here and how long we intend to be here.

The skyline near Southport

The skyline near Southport

Our trip today is back to Southport. South on M1 into Brisbane and through the city to avoid the toll road. As I said above the signage is a little sparse and we did get lost a couple of times which can be stressful when the map you have is as much outline as it accurate guide but we eventually found our way and arrived exactly where we are suppose to be, at D & M’s condo. No ditch camping for us tonight.

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The Road Trip Continues

Once again we arrive at dusk. It is not for lack of trying but the darkness is upon us. Hervey Bay is a complete surprise. I expected another small sea side town and holy cow it is a city, and quite a big one at that. It reminds us of Kelowna in Canada. The long avenue in is lined with all sorts of commercial buildings and it goes on for ever. We don’t have a real map just one photocopied from the Lonely Planet. We enter civilization and have no idea where we are. The map only covers the portion of the city by the water and we don’t even know where the water is. Eventually we get our bearings and find our way to the esplanade. We arrive at the furthest point along the seaside walk and since it is an area less traveled we find a cheap room again after dark. Still can’t seem to get that part right.

Hervey bay

This morning is crisp but not quite jacket weather. A walk to the end of the 1100 M pier serves to wake us up. Into the car and we drive the length of the esplanade we missed last night. It is a really nice street. Mostly residential but there are a few small scale commercial areas and the occasional motel/hotel/resort.

Hervey bay

It takes a few tries to get out of the city but once in the right direction it doesn’t take us long and we are on the highway south.  It is about 150 kms to Noosa our destination for today.

Right off the bat we encounter road works. This long section is not just a slow down in speed but three different sets of flagmen delaying our onward progress. Arriving in Gympie, a mere 75 kms away, 2 hours after we leave the hotel. Our goal today is to arrive in Noosa and find a hotel before it gets dark and already that looks in danger.

From Gympie on the traffic increases greatly. Finally about 12.30 we get to Noosa. It is not a big place but first glance it is quite crowded. The entire place looks like it has been built in the last 2o years. Very modern and upscale. As we drive further the traffic gets worse, both on the road and on the sidewalks. This isn’t looking good. We cannot even find a place to park and get our bearings. This is not our kind of place. A traffic jam from one end of town to the other and not an inch of sidewalk to spare. Have at ‘er if you enjoy that kind of holiday but the executive decision is made and we move on.

Frankly I would not recommend Noosa to anyone. It is off the map with overcrowding and pricing. The hotel we asked at was OK for the hotel, nice place for $130/night but wifi was $5/hour/device. Not that we want to spend our whole time on the computer but strickly on princple I would not stay there.

So on we go. The road continues along the ocean front and we head farther south, destination unknown. Debbie finds a possible destination, and to Mooloolaba we head. Our goal is still to be settled before sunset. The maps we have are a little sketchy and the trip is a bit stressful but the sign on the highway says Mooloolaba 12 km and we are feeling better. This town feels and looks way better than Noosa. Within 10 minutes we sight a couple of motels and the first one we stop at is good. The motel is 3 blocks from the beach and the wifi is included. Welcome to the 21st century. It is 3 pm and the sun is no where near the horizon. We even have time for our first swim in the ocean since diving.

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Hervey Bay from the pier

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Yeppoon to Hervey Bay

We wake up in Yeppoon and hope to make it to Noosa today. It is about a 6 1/2 hour drive. Off we go.

Beach at Yeppoon

Beach at Yeppoon

Our first stop isn’t too far down the road. We hike up a path to a lookout to see the Keppel Bay Islands. The view is beautiful with the sun reflecting on the water.

Yeppoon

We also spy a couple of lengthy sandy beaches that would be great for swimming (if it wasn’t soooo cold and if it wasn’t low tide!).

Yeppoon

I drive first today, so I am at the navigator’s (Murray) whimsy. As we drive through Rockhampton, he navigates us to the Rockhampton Zoo, which happens to be free. We spend an hour reacquainting ourselves with kangaroos, koalas, wombats, chimpanzees, crocodiles and the other zoo inhabitants.

Koala

Koala

We had been in Australia many years ago when our kids were younger, and seeing these animals brought back memories of when we were here last.

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Wombat

We drive south through Gladstone, which has a huge coal fired power plant. We see conveyor belts running under the highway, over and highway and in the distance, most likely carrying coal to the plant.

As we drive south from Gladstone, we realize that we are not going to make it to Noosa before dark. We do not want to drive in the dark for two reasons. First, the kangaroos are a danger and second, it is hard to find a hotel to stay in in the dark. The street lighting is not as good here as back home, so we have driven by hotels not realizing they are there.

We make an alternate plan to stay the night in Hervey Bay. As the sun slowly sinks to the horizon, we, once again, arrive at our destination at dusk. Our timing is not very good.  Find another small motel to spend the night in and indulge in fish and chips from a popular take out shop two doors down.

Hopefully tomorrow we make Noosa!

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Road Trip Day 2 – Bowen to Yeppoon

Quiet night in Bowen. It was as if we were in the wilderness. No noise what so ever. Strange small town but if you want to get away from it all this seems like the place.

Bowen mural

Bowen mural

Our first goal for the day is Airlie Beach just a few miles down the road. This is an upscale, modern and very busy corner of Queensland. It is busy today and this is mid winter. I don’t think I would want to visit in the summer but today we are able to park close to the beach and walk the esplanade without too much problem.

Airlie Beach

Airlie Beach

The town keeps the place in very good shape. The grounds near the beach are landscaped to rival an English garden. The maintance crew keeps the place looking great. The tide is out and we are unable to swim as the sand ends far above the waters’ edge but for those unable to hold themselves back there is a pool with a sand beach they call the Lagoon within sight of the water. Really nice place and totally worth a visit.

The road is much the same as yesterday. There are fewer cane fields. Mostly we pass ranches or farms and every now and then wilderness. Every few kilometers another outcropping of civilization appears and we have to slow down.

Art Deco building in Mackay

Art Deco building in Mackay

Next stop Mackay. Really nice small city. Everyone is friendly and no one is in a rush. We drive to the center of town and back out with no trouble what so ever. In town we wander the streets viewing the historic buildings and find the Cool Mango sandwich shop for lunch. I don’t know if it would be worth spending many days here but I would definately make a stop and see what is there.

The road continues south. There is not much between Mackay and Rockhampton. It is a lot of fast travel and rough country side. There is one long streatch where for some odd reason the speed limit jumps to 110 km/hr.

Does this look like a 110 km/her speed limit road?

Does this look like a 110 km/her speed limit road?

The road it self is not appreciably different from any other part of the road but we up our speed to match what is posted and fly along with rest of the traffic. Now this should help us arrive at our goal sooner but the Australian road crews are out in full force and literally every 2 km there is another road works sign attached to a speed limit sign slowing us to 60 or 80 klicks.

The highway carnage continues and I am able to absolutely identify some of the road kill. Definately 3 kangaroos, I think one koala, several birds and an assortment of small mammals. One weird thing about travel here is we are not getting any bug splatter on the wind screen (shield). You would think in the tropical and semi tropical regions there would be a tremendous number of bugs to mess up the windows but there seems to be significantly less then there is at home. Maybe they are just smarter bugs????

One of the highlights of the day was seeing several herds??? of kangaroos. Once I spot one group I am able to find a few more. It is like finding creatures diving, once you have seen the critter the first time you seem to be able to pick them out easier. I think the Aussies consider the ‘roos’ pests but for us they are a novelty and we scare one group and get to watch them hop away. Almost out of some fantasy movie.

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We want desperately to arrive in Yeppoon before it getsdark and we squeak in. The last vestigages of light were still apparent when we round the corner onto the beach front drive, spot a small motel and are able to register before dark. By the traffic noise I hear outside our door at 8pm I don’t think it will be anywhere near as quiet as last night.

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Cairns to Bowen

We say goodbye to our dive mates and the crew from Spirit of Freedom and start a new phase of our trip. A car is waiting for us at Ace Car Rental in Cairns and the super friendly fellow there fills out all the paperwork while chatting about Japan and Canada.

Off we go, driving on the left. I take the first shift as driver and it takes almost all my concentration to stay in the centre of the lane and not hug the left lane marker.

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Our first stop is Innisfail, not the Alberta one, but the Queensland one. There are Art Deco buildings in town and we want to take a look at them. There is supposed to be a pamphlet explaining them, but everyone seems to be out of stock. The fellow we chat with at the small museum is a perfect town host and we had a good talk about Donald Trump and then Justin Trudeau and the state of the world in general. We walk up and down two streets taking photos of the Art Deco buildings.

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As we drive, we pass by sugar cane fields and banana plantations. The sugar cane looks to be planted in cycles, with one field ready to be harvested next to a newly planted field.

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We chuckle as we compare Australian road signs to Canadian ones. One sign says “Overtaking Lane in 5 km”. Overtaking?? Oh, a passing lane!

As we drive through the numerous towns and small cities we talk about how if we don’t get out of the car and hear someone speaking we could be in Canada. The urban fabric is quite similar.

Murray comments on how many dead furry critters are on the side of the road. He thinks we don’t see as many in Alberta or that Albertan road crews clean them up pretty quickly.

We make a quick bathroom stop in Ayr and find an interesting sight. The road behind the visitor information/bathroom building is lined with motor homes. Apparently it is perfectly legal to park there for a maximum of 48 hours, so folks congregate there to visit and spend a night, or two. Free of charge and easily accessed.

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As we drive south, the landscape changes from sugar cane and bananas to scrub prairie kangaroo territory. We keep looking for kangaroos but only spy horses and cows.

It is getting dark so we decide to stop in Bowen, a quaint town stuck in the 1970 ‘s. We find a room at the Port Denison Motor Inn and supper at a Chinese take out spot. Tomorrow we continue our exploration of the east coast.

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Diving the Great Barrier Reef

Thursday we wake up at Lizard Island. It is change over day. The 3 day guests depart and the 4 day guests embark. We 7 day divers just continue on. To fill the time while the crew cleans the Spirit of Freedom, we go for a walk on the island. A stroll, really, through mangroves, up a small hill for a wide angle view and then down to the Marlin Bar at the 5 star Lizard Island Resort, where it is said that a room costs $1,100 per night per person and Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt spent their honeymoon.

After the new guests board and do all the preliminaries, we motor back to Lighthouse Bommie to see the Minke whales again and for the new arrivals to do their checkout dives. We are in luck this time and see a couple of Minkes close up. On the second dive, we hang out on the mooring line for about 30 minutes with our dive gear on, and the Minkes glide by numerous times, a couple of them quite close. Effortless swimmers and so big. We are in heaven!

Wake up on Friday at the Osprey Reef. Have motored all night for the 120, or so, mile crossing of open water. It is rough at times and sleep felt interrupted by the motion of the boat.

Four dives today, the most spectacular being a shark feeding dive. I never thought I would do one of these, but I find myself sitting on the wall of a coral amphitheatre watching the frenzy. There are about 20 to 25 reef sharks, two large cod fish and numerous small fish fighting for a couple of cod heads. I was actually quite calm as a shark swam right at me and over my head after the frenzy had died down.

Shark feed

On the other dives today Murray and I find numerous nudibranchs and flat worms which we love to discover. They are so colourful and when they do swim they are so graceful.

Nudibranch

Saturday, we wake up on Osprey Reef again for another four dives. We float in the void above a thousand foot drop off. Looking down into the depths, it is just black. Looking up to the sky is all blue water and brilliant. There is something about scuba diving that is peaceful. I could lay in the water and watch the fish for hours if I could.

Saturday night we cross open water again back to the shelter of the Great Barrier Reef. After about 10 minutes, we realize this crossing is not going to be easy and we pop some sea sickness pills. Our bed is laid out so we sleep perpendicular to the length of the boat. Not the best direction to lay when the conditions are rough. A person’s head and feet rock up and down when the boat rocks side to side. Laying parallel is better as the rocking motion is only from the right side to the left side of your body. I insist on sleeping parallel so I tuck myself down at the bottom of the bed and Murray lays down at an angle. The pills take effect and we are asleep way before we usually are. The pills are a success and when we wake up we are in calmer waters.

Flatworm

Our last four dives are wonderful, calm, relaxing and a great way to end our dive trip. We discover many creatures we haven’t seen yet, from nudibranchs to cuttlefish to leafy scorpions to gobies. We are sad it is over, but happy we have seen so much incredible wildlife.

Cuttlefish

Cuttlefish

 

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Minke Whale Day

Today our first two dives are at Lighthouse Bommie on Ribbon Reef #10. It is a known Minke whale stopping point, so there is some anticipation. During the first dive, the whale spotter does spot three Minke whales. By the time Murray and I surface, most of the other divers are snorkelling, all in a row on a line.

Minke whales are shallow swimmers. They do not dive really deep like other whales. They are also very social, and like to investigate snorkelers. They eat krill. Researchers are still trying to understand what brings them to the Great Barrier Reef every year. Perhaps mating, but no conclusive evidence has been found.

Minke whale

Murray and I quickly shed our BCDs, grab snorkels and slide into the water and take our place along the line. Two Minkes glide by followed by a lone one. They are smallish and very sleek. We wait and wait for them to come by again, and nothing happens. By this time I am getting too cold to stay in the water. We reluctantly get out.

Some time later, after we are both warm again, we realize that the boat is staying moored for an extra period of time, so we quickly suit up and slide into the water. No too many folks left in the water now, so the line is quite empty. We do not have to wait too long before a Minke whale swims by. Closer this time than the last ones that we saw. We are happy we got in the water again.

It is a great Minke Whale day.

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4 dive day

6.30 wake up. We’re up anyway but there is a knock on the door. Quick breakfast. Cereal. Wet suits are still wet and there is no warm weather to warm them. Cold and slimmy. Geesh what a way to wake up. Giant stride off the back of the boat, let the diving begin.

The water is warmer than the air. At least it feels that way. Todays first two dive are on a pinnicle. A coral spire about 80 ft tall. We start at 65 ish ft and spiral up and around in a clockwise direction, making 3 or 4 loops until we are at 20 ft hang out until our air is low and we head up to do our safty stop. There are dive masters leading those who wish to follow but they think Debbie and I are experienced enough we can go on our own. There are a few others in the same position. This dive is straight forward and we think we can handle it so off we go. The second dive is on the same sight. We dive our own profile each time and are back on the boat in one piece with more experience behind us.

Australia

Steve’s Bommie the morning dive site is teaming with wild life and every inch of the pinnicle is covered with coral or sponge or something of interest. Two great dives and it is time for lunch.

Australia

I don’t know why but dive boats serve a lot of fish. Jump in the water, decend to 60 ft and view you dinner. Somehow this just doesn’t seem right but we get sushi for lunch anyway.

Dive 3 is also self guided. The Tower of Doom. Not so much a spire this time but more of a coral mesa. We head off counter clockwise this time to throw some variety into the day. The Crown of Thorns starfish has desimated this coral head so the diving is somewhat austere. We’ve dove sites like this before, lots of rock with a bit of coral here and there and a few fish. But there are a few sights of interest. Again we arrive on the boat after executing our dive plan.

Australia

Dive 4 is Gardiner’s Corner. This dive is planned much the same as the Temple of Doom.  The dive briefing indicated the last corner can be confusing so I check with the dive master and find out exactly what to expect. The first part of the dive is pretty much normal. Then it gets a little dicey. We are not sure of the place to turn but I trusted our instructions and we ended up back at the mooring line again. The urgency produced by not knowing for sure if we chose the right route back meant we swam quite quickly and if there was anything to see we went by too quickly. Once we reached the mooring line we spent some time and found a few things at about 20 ft.

Australia

There is a 5th dive but Debbie and I decide to skip it, download photos, fill out the dive log and and write the blog. Dinner is late and I don’t think we will make it much beyond that, the wake up bell is the same time tomorrow.

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Diving with the Spirit of Freedom

We board the Spirit of Freedom today with 24 other divers. This is the first time on a dive boat with more than 16 divers. First impressions-it is crowded, too crowded. More later.

There is a lot of talk when first on a dive boat. There is a boat briefing, a safety briefing, introductions, dive paperwork to fill out, dive gear to set up, lunch, and then two dives, both with briefings. Lots of talk. It is now 6:30 pm and we have just showered and dressed after the second dive. Supper soon.

Like I said, the boat is crowded. The dive deck is very congested. Six divers per side all trying to gear up at the same time. Not much elbow room. Once in the water, the ocean feels crowded. There are only three dive masters/instructors for the 26 people, so if we want to follow one, we are following 4 or 5 divers, which we did as we need to get our bearings. We are used to diving with very few folks so this is quite a change for us.

Okay, now the bright side…..FISH!!!

In the two dives we have seen fish we have never seen before! I do not take my camera down today so I can concentrate on diving, so no photos. Tomorrow, I shoot. We see a HUGE balloon fish, small ray, a couple of turtles, all sorts of unfamiliar coloured fish, both small and large.

Tomorrow we go to where the Minke Whales happen by. Fingers crossed.

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Gold Coast to Cairns

We leave M&D today and fly to Cairns. D is studying for and then writing her end of term exams. We did not want to interfere with her studying, so we planned a scuba dive trip on a live aboard for a week and then we will pick up a rental car and drive from Cairns to Gold Coast, arriving after D has finished her exams. More hugs all around and then we are off.

We are flying Virgin Australia today. First time for a Virgin company flight. Their rules for baggage are quite different, only one carry on bag is allowed with a maximum weight of 7 kg. Each customer is allowed one free piece of checked luggage weighing a maximum of 23 kg. So we have to check our Rollie suitcases as they definitely weigh more than allowed. Murray is concerned about the weight of his backpack, but the agent is not concerned with our knapsacks. We must have made them look really light! The one good thing about limiting carry on bags is that the plane loads more quickly. No one was trying to lift bulky Rollie bags up into the overhead bins. Just slide into a seat and put the bag under the seat in front. Easy.

Virgin sent out an email yesterday about possible bad weather affecting our flight. We were scheduled to leave at 4:50 pm which was in the middle of a possible storm. I phoned Virgin and we switched our flight to a 1:30 pm departure for no charge. I have never had an airline provide this type of service before. I am impressed. Airlines in North America should be doing this during the winter months when storm fronts are known and moving in. We decided to fly earlier to take the stress away from a possible delayed flight. We are boarding the dive live aboard at 11:00 tomorrow and wanted to ensure we are in Cairns to do that.

We are now in Cairns at a backpackers hostel. The room, with our own bathroom, is pretty austere, but it will work for one night. We are sitting in a common area where there is WIFI access and we are by far the oldest folks in here.

It is warmer here than in Gold Coast, but still rainy. A message from M tells us it is really pouring in Gold Coast, so it sounds like it was prudent for us to take an earlier flight from Brisbane. Dodged that one.

We board the dive live aboard at 11:00 and are looking forward to communing with the fish. WIFI may be sketchy when out to sea, so if we do not post daily, we will play catchup once we are within range again.

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