Let the Tour Begin

Today we meet up with our travel companions. Noon is our target. We start out to have breakfast across the street, the cafe is closed and when we go back to the hotel to ask where else to go they inform us we could have the complimentary breakfast we paid for upstairs on the second floor. Surprise to us.

We ask if the street we are intending to walk is safe and the folks look at up as if we are nuts. Sure it is safe but it is a long way. People just don’t walk I guess. The entire walk takes us 1/2 hour. On schedule a group of gringoish looking folks walk through the front door and damned if they are not looking for us.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Introductions all around. Liz the chief, our tour guide from Wild Frontiers, gives an outline agenda for the day, we climb into a mini bus and off we go. Our first stop, the central square from whence we just came. A repeat of most of the highlights. Ivan, the local guide knows his stuff. I don’t think one question stumped him, mind you he could say it is green and we would have to believe him because none of us would know the difference. He did tell us the imposing cathedral  was originally white plaster like the rest of the buildings on the plaza but was reclad in brick in the 1970’s. And his intro speech enlightened us on the fact that Bolivia is a ‘melting pot’ of cultures. Many different indigenous groups and indeed peoples from all over the world have settled here over the centuries to make Bolivia what it is today. Did you know that there are about 70,000 Mennonites living in the areas around Santa Cruz?

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Potatoes

I would rather walk than ride a bus but we do cover a lot of territory in a short time as we see parts of the city we would not have found. We drive by the park we were headed to yesterday when the lady told us it is not a place for tourists with cameras. It did look a little sketchy. We drive  through less affluent and total upscale residential areas. We do a tour of the outskirts and then stop at the largest and most popular mercado in Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Not very crowded on a Tuesday but the potential for a weekend scrum is big. We stop at a “real” indigenous handy craft place where the local folks sell their goods but the deal is they must be of export quality. Too early for us to start shopping, so no purchases, although we got some ideas!

The crew is interesting enough, from a young lady that trades bonds in New York to a 80 year old electrical engineer that worked in high end speaker factories in England. Should be a good couple of weeks if I can get used to the group movement thing.

Some more random thoughts. Shoes. Man they are important. Tell a man by his shoes they say. Here the only stores open on Sunday are shoe stores. On every street corner there is a shoe shine guy and there is more often than not someone in the chair getting their shoes shined.

Eating out is much more about the dining experience than satisfying a basic need. We can sit all night and the check would not come. You have to request “la cuenta”.

September 24 is a big celebration day here. It is the day the area, Santa Cruz, got its independence. During the entire month of September there are events to mark the occasion. It is also a time when the municipal government springs for some funds and does a lot of spruce up maintenance around the city. Yesterday 1/2 the benches in the central plaza were unusable because of a fresh coat of shellac. Today we cross the street and notice last night while we slept the city guys were out painting new lines on the main streets.

We are leaving Santa Cruz tomorrow to head south and west to less populated areas. We will post whenever we have WIFI, as we have been told that we will only have it in the cities. Stayed tuned!

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

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Santa Cruz, Bolivia

We read this Santa Cruz is nothing special and I think I must agree. Nice enough place but just a city. This is our first time to Bolivia so it is a really good intro and the city seems friendly enough but there are not a whack of tourist sites to attact tourists so there are not too many tourists either.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Caffe sellers in the square.

A few quick observations. The central park is a popular spot. We arrived on Sunday and it was packed. By the evening you had to hunt to find a seat and there are hundreds of them. Families gather there. The kids are occupied the entire time. Last night a lady selling bubbles makers cleaned up. Mom and dad spent the evening blowing bubbles the younger kids spent the entire time chasing after them, clapping them into the ether.

Today it is pigeons. Someone is selling small bags of seed, mom and dad feed the pigeons and the kids chase them away. The pigeons are very accommodating and return again and again so the kids can again chase them away again and again.

There is a sign at a pizza shop, “You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy pizza and it is the same thing.”

This city can get hot in the summer. Two things make that obvious.  All of the street sides of the buildings have porticos (overhangs) the width of the sidewalk, which provide shade from the intense overhead sun. And, a much more recent addition, ice cream shops. Fancy ice cream shops, I think there is a least one on every block. Today we are lucky, it was supposed to be 33 C but there is a cool wind blowing making the temp quite pleasant, which results in us not buying ice cream.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

In the higher end neighbourhood.

We walk through a higher end neighbourhood. Fancier high rise condo buildings and gated single family homes. It is good to walk cities and discover where the ordinary folks live. They are mostly just like us in where they live, work, eat, shop and play.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

House in the higher end neighbourhood.

We wander across a small local restaurant as we are due for lunch. We take a chance and enter. Fortunately one of the young chefs speaks English and explains the menu to us which is written on a white board outside the eatery. I have my usual, chicken and rice and Murray has chicken lasagna with rice. The young man is very accommodating with me to prepare something not on the menu. Murray orders a Coke and it comes in a rather large bottle, 600 ml, enough to share. The price for the tasty lunch is about $6 US.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Our lunch stop.

Tomorrow we meet up with our tour group and life will change for us. No more wandering Santa Cruz or stopping at off the beaten path restaurants, but we will get onto the salt flats and altiplano. Till tomorrow.

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Lima, Peru to Santa Cruz, Bolivia

We sight see from our taxi on the way to the airport in Lima to catch our flight to Santa Cruz, Bolivia. In the area where gringos are not supposed to tread, we drive through a circular square the size of the Place de la Concorde in Paris, and just as exquisite. On each triangular block that borders the square, there is a pinkish building with grey blue parapets. The facades of these buildings are curved (negative) to match the arc of the square itself. There are 8 to 10 of these buildings surrounding this square with broad avenues in between. Each avenue leading to another plaza farther afield. Oh, it must have been glorious in its day.

Our route takes us through La Paz, just so we can arrive in Santa Cruz during the daytime. All the other flights arrive in the middle of the night! We view La Paz from the plane window and it looks dry and dusty on the outskirts of the city. We do spy the tall buildings and greenery of the downtown in the distance.

Santa Cruz, Boliva

A side street from the main square in Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz is HOT HOT HOT! Over 30 C, quite unlike Lima. I went from not being warm in Lima to overheating here!

Santa Cruz, Boliva

Building bordering the main square.

It is Sunday and so the main square, across from our hotel, is full of families, youngsters and lovers. There is a locals market beside the great cathedral. Stalls selling hand crafted wares and some plying not so hand crafted goods. We find a cheap chicken supper for $6.00 total for the two of us, then sit in the square with the locals and watch the world go by. There are vendors cruising the square selling popcorn, bubble makers, coffee and neon twirly things. The children are chasing the bubbles that their fathers are blowing. Everyone is enjoying the cooler temps as the evening progresses.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Evening in the square.

We are tired from the early morning, travel and heat, so we retire to our room to blog, drink water and cool off.

 

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Miraflores

Farther afield today. Destination Miraflores, a district of Lima on the ocean. Everything one reads whether on the net or in a travel book mentions Miraflores. So thought we should have a look see. One of the museums we wanted to see is near by in Barranco.

Yesterday we check out taxi fares and the like and were going to take a cab until the lady at Info Peru told us it would only take one bus to get there from central Lima. It sounded easy so I thought we should try it and take a cab home. Like to see how the locals live. The bus station is a bit confusing, in order to ride the bus you have to buy a rechargeable card for S./5 and then charge it for the bus rides. Cost us double but still 1/2 cab fare. When we get on it is crowded and more people get on at every stop. Sardines. By the time our stop comes the crowd has thinned out and we have only a minor squeeze to get off.

We get to the gallery Museo de Arte Contemporaneo 4 mins after it opened. I am now officially old. I walk up to the cashier and say dos, she replies ‘general’ and I ask if there is a seniors rate. We get in for S./4 each, less than $2. The gallery itself is quite nice, utilizing separate buildings for each exhibit and all surrounded by a moat to keep out the riff raff. The art on the other hand is only OK. Some of it I’m not sure is art.

Lima, Peru

The ocean!

A bridge crosses the freeway to Miraflores and we see how the other 1/2 live. The sea walk is high above the ocean atop a steep cliff. It is quite a pleasent walk winding back and forth, as the cliff dictates, with very little traffic on the adjacent road. Across the street are high rise condos for the upper eschilons of Lima society.

Lima, Peru

The beach!

The downtown area of Miraflores is definately middle to upper class and from a tourist point of view, is really quite sterile. The buildings are modern, most of the shops are generic to the rest of the world, it is extremely busy (Saturday noon) and the traffic is noisy. Even the spot of respite, Parque Central de Miraflores, is not much of a relief. Green yes, with a hundred or so ferel cats to entertain, it has major avenues running on both sides which takes away from any peace sought. For all it is touted Miraflores is not the area I would wish to spend my time wandering around in.

Lima, Peru

House in Miraflores, a district of Lima.

We end our walk 2 blocks from the bus stop so end up taking the bus home and amoratize the cost of the recharge card over two trips. This bus is even more sardine like than the one early today. Debbie’s grey hair nets her a seat offered by a young woman.

There are no rules for walking in Lima, at least none I can make in the two days I have been plying the streets. Usually, if driving is on the right, walking on the sidewalk follows suit. Here not so much. Either side of the walk will do. People here are not so aggressive as in Europe and when on collision course with an oncoming walker will give 1/2 way similar to the way things work in North America. People wait for the green “WALK” sign here much like we do in Edmonton but at an undeterminable time they will cross. Sometimes it is when no cars are headed towards the corner but sometimes it is a mystery. Being good and worldly tourists Debbie and I follow the number one street crossing rule, “Follow a local across”, especially if the local is herding a child or two.

In hot climates people of all ilks walk considerably slower than I do. Here for some reason, some people walk very fast. Even when Debbie and I are walking at a good clip people will pass us. Then there is the opposite end of the scale. Children, older children, in their late teens or early 20’s will walk arm in arm with one of their parents and, oh my goodness, are they slow. The parents are not that old, I think it is the journey that is important and they want to enjoy their time together. I am reading a lot into this but I have no other explanation for such a stroll.

Debbie here. After some rest and organizing for our flights tomorrow we walk across the street to Plaza San Martin to sit and watch the people. There are small groups surrounding speakers with microphones. We think it is like a speaker’s corner, where someone with an opinion or idea can just talk, and people gather to listen.

We stroll down Jiron de la Union to the restaurant we found yesterday and want to try. The crowds of people out strolling, shopping and hanging are amazing. There is a noticeable police presence. The crowds are just as large on our stroll back from eating. It has been a great day of wandering Miraflores and Lima.

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Lima, Peru

Best route for us to western South America is through Lima, Peru. Our last few long trips we have been taking a ‘pause’ in transit to our destination, say 10 to 12 hours of flying time from home, and then continuing on our way. We are not so wasted when we reach our final destination and, what the hell, the places on the way should be interesting as well. Spent very little time on this continent so why not take in a bit of Lima in transit.

The flights into this city seem to arrive in the late evening or early night. At 11pm Lima’s airport is crowded but the place is set up for the rush and we are on the Peru side of customs in a flash. There is a service called Taxidatum, I think similar to UBER, where you can order a cab on line and the driver will be waiting for you. There it is my name in bold letters shining toward the arrivals lane. It was that easy.

Gran Hotel Bolivar, Lima

Gran Hotel Bolivar, Lima

The Gran Hotel Bolivar is truly grand. It was THE HOTEL in Lima through most of the 1900’s until Peru was put on the tourist map and large chains arrived with their brand of opulance.This place reminds me of the Chateau Lake Louise, or the Banff Springs Hotel in Banff Park, Canada. It is one of the iconic buildings on one of the cities major plazas.

Gran Hotel Bolivar, Lima

Foyer dome in the Gran Hotel Bolivar

The interior is a little worse for wear but the philosophy is different than say Canada. This place has as many original fittings as can be saved. They have not replaced the toilets, for example, with new modern ones. The cans are very old and I guess if they still work they are kept. So the place looks a little ‘tired’ but if you stand back and really look, it is as grand as it has always been but not in the style you would expect in a modern 5 star hotel. The reviews are very mixed on this place, I think people used to upscale places come there expecting the Hyatt and this it not that. We took a chance and are glad we did. It is a chance to live a in a bit of old world luxury. After all Julio Iglasius, Robert Kennedy and Carlos Santana can’t be completely wrong.

Today is our day to do the central part of Lima. Plaza San Martin to Plaza de Armas de Lima. Our first steps out of the hotel and the vision is arresting, it is one of the main squares, Plaza San Martin and it is suppose to be. The buildings around the square are brightly painted and imposing. I start snapping pictures before we even get to the curb. All of the reading we have done has said Lima is a not so safe city so we are on guard from the start.

The fellow at the front desk of the hotel gives us a photostated map with how to traverse the area and we walk down a pedestrian street towards the Plaza de Armas. It is relatively early and it is still quite busy. On the way we detour to a Bank of Nova Scotia to utilize the ATM. The street we walk down has traffic on it and the sidewalks are narrow, typical for a city that not built for autos I suppose.

Lima, Peru

Plaza de Armas de Lima

The entrance to the city’s main plaza is as halting as when we stepped out of the hotel. There are quite a lot of folks about and the buildings here are even more commanding. The Palacio de Gobierno, guarded by machine gun toting policia, Palacio Municipal de Lima, Glaeria Municipal Pancho Fierro, and the church in Lima, Catedral de Lima.

Again it is a busy place but this time there are as many tourist as locals. Funny how even tourists can pick out tourists. No matter how I plan I cannot look like a local in any place but Alberta???? Could be the Tilley hat or maybe it is the camera? Either of which I could have at home and still not look like a tourist.

A few blocks more and we find ourselves at the Mercado Central, central market for those of you who don’t speak Spanish. Ha, like I do?  It is like most markets in the world with about anything you want to buy in small stalls arranged in very long, very narrow aisles.

Lima, Peru

For sale in the Mercado Central.

The vegetables are piled high, and the meat and fish are open to the air on reasonably clean counters being butchered right there. Today we eat lunch, fried chicken and chips, at one of the food stalls. This is when we find we have taken out far too much money from the ATM and will have to figure out how to change it back before we leave. Lunch cost us $3Can. I think my budget was for $30. Oops.

Lima, Peru

One of the pedestrian malls in Lima.

As we continue to walk up this street and down that one we note many of them are closed to vehicular traffic. Discussing this point we think there are must too many pedestrian for the aforementioned small sidewalks. The solution is to convert them to pedways. By noon these storefront to storefront sidewalks are busy. The city was built as a whole, that is not ad hoc. So it was planned on the model of the great cities of Europe with the plazas as focal points, and grand avenues to connect them. These pedestrian streets traverse from plaza to plaza and somewhat do what the planners intended so many years ago.

As we walk and get comfortable with the place, we find the tales of street crime, so prevalent on the web, are far too many compared to the hospitable place we experience. I’m sure there are places to get into trouble and one could go there by accident but being travel aware is half the battle and Lima seems tourist friendly so far.

Tonight we venture out. In warmer climates the evening and early night is the time to be out. Spring is on it way and the people are ready for summer. The Circuito Magico del Agua is our goal. It is maybe a 1/2 hour walk to the park but we go a zig-zaggy route and it takes a bit longer. The fellow at the front desk of the hotel told us there is a ‘show’ that starts at 7 and repeats every hour. As we approach the park and walk down the long shuttle set up for a queue I realize there is fee to see this show. The sign says S./4, so I fish out a S./10. It is the first place I have been where the locals pay to get in, albeit about $1.25Can, and it seems the tourist don’t as We get to the gate and the lady hands back our money and passes us a ticket marked 0.00, Free.

Lima, Peru

The show is a combination of lazer images on fogged water and dancing fountains. Quite impressive really. As we tour the other waterworks there are kids playing in the spray park fountains and they are soaked. It is not summer yet, we are talking 18C here, by the end of the night they will be frozen.

We are here one day and already we are eating like a South American. Because we went to view the fountains and if we had tried to find dinner at 5.30ish we would have missed them so we waited till after. 8pm and we walk into Norky’s, a chain chicken joint. Paid S./32 for a 1/2 chicken, fries and a salad. Too much food really but it has been a long time since lunch and we are hungry.

Day one of our stop over in Lima, rest is a good idea. It is an easy way to get an extra bit of touring in on a trip to elsewhere.

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Packing for Peru, Bolivia and Chile

We are leaving for Peru, Bolivia and Chile in a couple of days. We are connecting with a Wild Frontiers tour through Bolivia and will travel on our own in Peru and Chile. This trip has been put together rather quickly for us, not our typical way of doing things. There has been no lead time for excitement and anticipation to build. We are finalizing our packing right now.

This is the first time in three years we are traveling internationally without scuba diving gear. Packing is easy and my bag only weighs about 14 lbs! Here is what I have packed.

Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

First Layer

  • Gortex rain jacket
  • Technical quick dry pants
  • Flip flops
  • Icebreaker wool short sleeved shirt
  • Icebreaker wool 3/4 length sleeved shirt
Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Layer Two

  • Icebreaker wool long underwear
  • Icebreaker wool short sleeved shirt
  • First aid kit
Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Layer Three

  • Swimsuit
  • Undies – 3 pair
  • Sports bra
  • Small lightweight backpack
Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Layer Four

  • Malaria pills
  • Gloves
  • Socks – lightweight and heavyweight
  • Headlamp
  • Travel towel
Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Layer Five

  • Cosmetic bag (no liquids – they are carried in a ziploc separately)
  • Soap
Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Layer Six

  • Midweight Icebreaker sweater
  • Cotton blouse
  • Sunhat
Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Finished!

Packing for a Trip to Bolivia, Chile, Peru

Airplane clothes

I have to dress warmly on airplanes. The chilly air and lack of movement makes me cold very quickly, so I dress in many warm layers.

  • Sports bra
  • Undies
  • Buff for a head warmer
  • Socks
  • Linen Pants
  • Icebreaker wool long sleeved shirts – two!
  • Icebreaker heavy layer (I could be an Icebreaker commercial!)
  • Scarf
  • Hiking shoes (not shown)

That is all my clothes. It is based on layering as we will be in hot weather and chilly weather. The small backpack is a container to put layers as I shed them through the day.

The ziploc of liquids is not shown in the photos. But it is a combination of shampoo, tooth paste, moisturizer, liquid laundry soap, polysporin, nose spray etc and it is divided up between Murray and me.

I am taking a “purse”, a squarish courier bag that I can wear as a cross over bag. (I would have preferred a backpack, but that screams “tourist” too much.) It will house my iPad, camera, kleenex, water and all those little items that I need handy. I will be wearing a necksafe with passport, cash, extra prescription drugs and credit cards inside, plus a money belt, so there will be no money or passports inside the courier bag except a small wallet with only “day money” inside, after all we are going to South America.

Now that I am mostly packed, I can concentrate on building excitement and anticipation for Peru, Bolivia and Chile.

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Australia Photos

Our photos from Australia are now posted in the blog!

View of Surfers Paradise

View of Surfers Paradise

To view photos, hover over “Photos”, in the main menu bar, until the drop down menu appears. Click on “Australia 2016” in the drop down menu. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show.

Australia

Enjoy!

Australia

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Tour of Alberta 2016 Stage 5

Today’s the final stage of the Tour of Alberta and it is a circuit race through downtown Edmonton and its river valley. The event is about the riders and the race but it also it about meeting friends and fellow riders, swimmers, triathletes and workmates.

We walk the course, our first stop is Fortway Drive, the hill below the Legislature Building where the peleton swooshes down the hill, around a corner and onto the flat River Valley Road. The whirring sound of 90 sets of bike wheels on the pavement is joy to my ears.

Tour of Alberta 2016

Our next stop is the intersection of 100 Avenue and 107 Street where we can watch the riders zip by, both leaving downtown and arriving back into downtown. They take the corner at such speeds and in such close formation, all leaning into the corner.

Tour of Alberta 2016

We are now running into friends, who are also taking photos or following the course, just as we are. We wave “Hello” from across the street, or stop for a quick chat.

Next stop is the top of Bellamy Hill, the King of the Mountain climb. We arrive in time to see Danilo Celano, the KOM jersey winner, garner more points by being first up the hill. I think his jersey title is assured, so no one was racing him to the top. The riders seem to handle the hill without even breathing hard.

Tour of Alberta 2016

We make our way to the finish line to watch the final few laps. The racers zoom past at what feels like great speed, a blur of colour. A lone rider breaks off to win the stage and it is a group sprint to the end to determine who wins the General Classification. There is a small crash just meters away from where we are standing. Two riders take some time to get up, but they do get up, get back on their bikes and cross the finish line. That is what being an athlete is all about. The crowd gives each of them a huge cheer!

Tour of Alberta 2016

We bump into more friends, this time ladies we swim with and ex workmates. The race is the place to be today, meeting friends and watching great racing.

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Tour of Alberta 2016 Time Trial

Our day starts with the ITU Elite Women’s Triathlon down at Hawrelak Park in Edmonton, followed by the Elite Men’s Triathlon and then the Tour of Alberta Stage 4 Time Trial.

The wind is chilly, the sky grey. Even though I am dressed for winter, my feet are cold, so I am cold. Between each race, I sit inside the park’s main pavilion to get warm.

ITU Triathlon Edmonton

Maybe just watching the women and men triathletes riding and running in not more than a swim suit makes me frigid. How do they not get severely hypothermic? My toes and fingers would be little icicles.

ITU Triathlon Edmonton

We watch the Tour’s time trial from a traffic island where we can watch riders both heading out on the course and returning. Some riders spin through the course knowing that they have to work during tomorrow’s final stage race in downtown Edmonton. Other riders are vying for first place in the General Classification or a Stage win. They all have very intense faces as they peddle by. They don’t look as cold as the triathletes did.

Tour of Albert 2016

We leave after the last rider heads out onto the 12 km course. The walk up the hill to our vehicle warms my body up, but not my feet. I know the perfect place to warm them up……..bed, and here I am.

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Tour of Alberta 2016 Stage 3

Saturday morning sees us driving from Sundre to Rocky Mountain House to watch the start of Stage 3 of the Tour of Alberta. It is sunny with occasional clouds in Sundre but as we travel north, the clouds take over, and they are grey. Doesn’t look good for a dry day.

We wander around the team buses in Rocky before the start of the race. The riders are preparing for the day, fixing radios, choosing snacks, donning extra layers against the cold wind and taking a quick spin to make sure their bikes are in perfect running condition.

Colin Joyce

Colin Joyce preparing for the day’s racing.

The riders look pensive as they line up at the start. The stage is 181 km long, which will take about 4 hours. Maybe they are thinking about team tactics, or which snack to eat first, or about that sore muscle, or the cold weather.

Tour of Alberta 2016

The leaders in all the jersey categories plus a few special riders line up right at the start line and the rest of the riders in behind them.

Tour of Alberta 2016

And before too long, they are off riding. In Rocky they do two neutral laps within the town and then ride out east and then north to Drayton Valley. We hop in our vehicle and drive north right away to get ahead of them before they turn north.

We arrive in Drayton Valley with hours to spare, so we decide to go for a very short ride. We ride north into the wind for 13 or so km and then turn around and fly with the wind. By the time we get back, change, stow our bikes, grab a snack and walk to the race area, the riders are getting close. Fortunately, they have not gotten soaked by rain today.

Tour of Alberta 2016

The riders enter Drayton and do three laps of a circuit within town. It is always thrilling to watch them speed by in a pack. I marvel at their athleticism and bike handling prowess. Two riders manage to break away on the second lap and they fight it out to the finish line. Another great day of racing!

Tour of Alberta 2016

Evan Huffman wins the stage!

We are now home again as Stage 4 is a time trial in Edmonton, using the same bike course as the ITU Triathlon being held early in the day. We will watch both the Triathlon and the Tour, so it will be a day filled with excitement.

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