Berat to Gjirokaster to Tirana

We have a long day yesterday and by the time we get back to the hotel it is 8:30 pm and a post will have to wait.

Nikea
Nikea

On the drive from Berat to Gjirokaster, we stop at an ancient site. It is Nikea, a 5th century BC Illyrian fortified settlement. All that is left now are pieces of the wall, and parts of the theatre. It seems, every time an invading army conquers,m they kill the people and cart away the stones. The wall is quite impressive with its huge oddly shaped blocks. The site is located near a small village, on the top of a hill that has a 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside. It is peaceful up there, except for the barking dogs somewhere below us that we cannot see.

Fig
A fig!

As we travel, our guide picks various types of fruit for us. Green figs and grapes, red figs, purple grapes and pomegranates. We taste them all. I am delighted with the figs as I have never been a fig lover. I would eat these!

Pomegranate

As we drive towards Gjirokaster, we see a turkey farm with about 300 turkeys. Our guide says the sale of those is enough for a family to live for a year. We view the river Vjosa, which is the largest remaining wild river in Europe and it is protected as a national park.


Gjirokaster Castle
Gjirokaster Castle

When we arrive in Gjirokaster, we visit the castle that overlooks the town and the river valley, making it a strategic military location. It is an Ottoman era fortress, built beginning in the 12th century. There is a legend that Princess Argjiro, who lived in the 15th century jumped off the wall with her child to avoid capture by the Ottomans.

Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster

Today, as we drive from Gjirokaster back to Tirana, our guide explains how a sheep farmer earns enough to live. He has some hundreds of sheep which we sells lambs, cheese and milk for about $17,000 a year. The man of the family travels to Greece for three to six months a year to pick fruit and makes about 1,500 Euro a month. The family doesn’t spend much so they have enough to live on for the year. He calls this “the simple rhythm of economy.”

We see many derelict factories left over from the communist era. Free enterprise has been accepted here with open arms. Unfortunately, there is little marketing and business acumen as there are numerous closed gas stations, restaurants and shops.

The countryside is rolling hills stretching up to mountains. These hills have been cleared and are now agricultural lands. Soon, there won’t be any wild forests left. Olive tree groves are the main crop. Our guide says that these trees do not get sick and since their roots are shallow, they soak up moisture very easily.

We have a full day in Tirana before we strike out on the road again, this time going towards North Macedonia.

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Berat

Berat Castle is a fortified hilltop with an exterior wall extending about 1.4 kms. It dates back to the 4th century BC, through  the Roman Era, the Byzantine Empire, the Ottoman Empire to the present day where it is an active community of houses, guest houses and a museum. A number of churches were added inside the fortress over the years. It was a strategic fortress controlling trade routes and defence of the area.

Berat Castle
Berat Castle

We wander the uneven stone paths inside the fortress and visit the churches and museum. The churches are a hybrid of religions as they are built “Catholic” on the outside and “Byzantine” on the inside. The Albanians put their mark on the altar pieces and icons by using red in the paintings. I have never seen a painting of the Virgin Mary and Jesus with the Virgin wearing a red robe. 


Berat


Berat is built on both side of a wide river bed. One side is said to be the Muslim side and the other is the Christian side. Strolling the small walkways among the houses on the Muslim side brings me back to the Greek island Hydra. Access to these houses is only by foot. The lanes are cooler with the breeze wafting through.


Berat

We cross over to the Christian side on a foot bridge and do the same on this side. Then back over the river on another bridge. By then we are all hungry so stop for a lunch, for me anyway, of a stuffed eggplant. It was delicious!

Osum Gorge
Osum Gorge

It is decided to go for a drive to see a gorge on the River Osum, further upstream than Berat. We travel through agricultural lands, with olive trees, crops, greenhouses growing peppers and eggplants, vegetable fields. Small villages dotted the windy, rolling road. 

I spot a lookout over the gorge so we stop and have a good look. There happens to be a group of kayakers travelling down the gorge so we watch them until they paddle out of sight. 

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On the Road to Berat

This morning we meet our guide/driver for the next two weeks and then pick up our friends L&R from the airport. Stage two of our trip begins.

As we drive towards Berat, south of Tirana, we learn tidbits of information about Albania. Here are some random notes:

Albania is 50% Muslim and 50% Christian. To confuse things, most Muslims have Christian last names.

Albania has 3 million olive trees, whereas Greece has 10 million, Italy has 15 million and Spain has 17 million.

The area of the country is about 28,000 sq km and has a population of 3 million. Vancouver Island, in Canada, is about 31,000 sq km with a population of about 800,000.

Albania has been tied to Greece for hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of years. It is said that the Greeks were the philosophers and the Albanians were the warriors and the carpenters.

There is no auto industry in the country. Vehicles are imported. Lumber is imported from Sweden. Crude oil is exported. Tourism is now one of the major economic drivers.

Our guide was telling us what it was like to be a 13 year old living under the dictator that ruled for 40 years. He said that he had to stand in line for four hours to get a cup of milk. They had no new clothes and no shoes. The dictator bought MIG fighter planes but kept the populace starving. The people were forced to work on the weekends to clear new land for agriculture.

We stop in Durres, a port and tourist city. It is only 4 hrs by ferry across the Adriatic to Italy. We walk the beach to stretch our legs. The beach is a little rough, but there are a couple of folks in the water. 

Durres Beach
Durres Beach

Arriving in Berat is refreshing as, to me anyway, it looks like a Greek town without the blue colour. Tomorrow we will explore the area.

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Tirana, Day 2

Today we are headed to Parku i Madh i Tiranes (Tirana Lake Park). It was built in 1956/57 using a plan of a Bulgarian designer. The park is 230 hectares, the lake itself is 55 hectares. The park sports 120 different species of trees, including what looks like maple trees!

On the way we walk through the Tirana Castle. An 18th century castle that has been repurposed as a mall. It is nicely done and not your standard image when you think of a mall. Smaller shops and upscale restaurants.

Repurposed Tirana Castle
Repurposed Tirana Castle

Arriving at the edge of the park our eyes follow the trail up, up and up. Holy, that is one steep climb. Half way up we find a bench in the shade and rest a bit. Walk up takes its toll and the heat just multiplies the effect. As we sit, a young couple with the same idea walk past to the next shaded bench. I didn’t feel so bad watching people less than ½ our ages doing the same thing. We make it to the apex and the route down is just as steep, but we didn’t need a rest on the way down.

When we reach the lake there is an unoccupied bench that is perfect to watch the world pass by. It’s Sunday and the locals are out strolling. There is a constant stream of people walk by. Most are just strolling and enjoying the weather. It is not so far away from winter so they are making the most of it.

Debbie makes note of a few things. The number of people attached to dogs. Hardly any. Out of the hundreds of people that walk by maybe a dozen have a dog in tow (or visa versa).

The other thing is the number of children. Kids 6 or 8 and younger that are out and about with their parents. The proportion is much higher than North America for sure and I think greater than anywhere we have been in the past few years.

We walked a short distance along the lake shore and looking back we noticed what looked like a way out that did not require the walk up and down the ‘mountain’ we arrived over.

The walk home was a random stroll. We knew the general direction we needed to go so we just walked. Funny, as things go, we managed to walk along 3 of the same roads we traversed yesterday. Hell, we have only been here two days and already we can’t get lost.

Today Tirana, tomorrow Berat.

Note from Debbie – Remember in my first post I mentioned to always watch where I walk? Yeah, I got complacent as the sidewalk looked flat, stepped on something uneven and BOOM down I went. I have a real nice bruise on the inside of my wrist, no broken bones, just injured pride.

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Tirana, Albania

We go for our first real walk in Tirana today. Our destinations are a pyramid and a SPAR Market (to buy items more suitable for Debbie’s breakfast).

The sidewalks have rough spots, tippy flag stones and protruding sections that are waiting for an unsuspecting tourist to trip on. I have my eye on the ground constantly watching for these lurking beasts. Many sidewalks are narrow so we walk in single file. Other folks out this morning, walk s..l..o..w, so we scoot around them, although I am not walking fast, too busy looking down.

Mosque of Namazgah
Mosque of Namazgah

Tirana is filled with small parks. As there are many apartment blocks here, the children need places to play, so the parks fill that need. The buildings, both residential and commercial are a mix of modern and what looks to be communist era, there are no mid century buildings. It makes sense since Albania ceased to be communist in 1992.

We wander past a large mosque and then climb The Pyramid of Tirana. A steep climb up gives us some height to view Tirana. The pyramid was originally museum and mausoleum for Hoxha, who ruled Albania in an oppressive communist regime for four decades. After communism collapsed, the pyramid fell into disrepair until 2021 when it was refurbished and re imagined.

Pyramid of Tirana
Pyramid of Tirana

Our next mission is the SPAR Market, a Dutch company that we discovered on our bike trip through the Netherlands. We have a printed map off Google and some written notes to help us find it. Yeah, yeah, paper, not digital. We are learning that not everyone here speaks English. As we are sitting on a wall along the sidewalk, we are trying to guess which passersby would speak English, so we can confirm what street we are on. Not so obvious!

We finally locate the store, and realize the P.B. is cheaper at the store near our hotel. Between the pyramid and the SPAR, we walk through an area called Blloku, an upscale area full of shops, restaurants and bars. There are not so many people here as near our hotel. Perhaps a lack of tourists. We notice there are always locals sitting in the cafes drinking coffee and chatting. A morning ritual?

Our first day in the heat is taking a toll (on Debbie) so we head back to the hotel to cool off and rest our feet (Debbie’s). We did pretty good for day one. We have scoped out a couple of restaurants for supper, so we will explore the local cuisine tonight.

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And we are off!……to Albania!

Years ago, we wrote about stepping through a portal, into a metal tube and then reemerging from the portal in another country. This morning we enter the portal and then numerous tubes and find ourselves in Tirana, Albania. Why Albania? Why not!

Considering Albania is not well know, the airport is very crowded. I think it must be getting popular. Flying along the coast, from Frankfurt, the water and beaches look marvellous. The country side is arid, groves of trees, perhaps olives. 

Entry into the country takes about two seconds as they, similar to Australia, have passport scanners and photo recognition. Since we are travelling carryon, we cruise through the baggage claim to go find the Luna Bus that runs a service between the airport and Tirana for 400 Lek, or about $7 Cdn.

The traffic around the airport is stop and go, mostly stop and a little bit go. Once clear of the airport environs we pick up speed, and then when we get inside Tirana, we revert to mostly go and a lots of stop. We get off the bus at the last stop of the bus, near Skanderbeg Square, and get hit with the 28C heat. 

Tirana is a big city, with traffic and pedestrians and tourists. We are figuring out how to properly cross the streets, who has the right of way. We read menus of all the restaurants we pass, gauging what is expensive and what is not. A couple of small stores get our business as we buy Coca Cola and then water. 

We are going to go for supper soon and then allow ourselves to pass out from severe lack of sleep.Talk tomorrow.

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Making Indonesia New

Before we left, I wrote a post about wanting to make Indonesia new again. B has not been there, but Murray and I have been there a number of times.

While in Denpasar and Sorong, we visited temples and markets we had not been to before. In Ubud, we travelled familiar roads and saw familiar sites but time goes by and shops, galleries and sites do change. It was nice to go to a favourite restaurant we found last trip and find out it is still in place and the food is just as we remembered.

Diving Raja Ampat, even though we have been there, was new as we went to a different area than previously. And when we did go to a dive site we had visited before, we did not remember what was underwater. The diving in Menjangen was all new as was Sumberkima. We are slowly visiting all the dive destinations in Bali.

I think we did a good mix of brand new experiences and familiar experiences on the trip. We all enjoyed Indonesia very much.

While in the Gold Coast, Murray and I had gone to all of the sights we visited but it was enjoyable to take B and see them through new eyes.

B is now home and we are at our son’s place visiting, resting and enjoying the Gold Coast life style. See you on the other side.

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Playing Tourist on the Gold Coast

B has not been to the Gold Coast so we want to hit the highlights of the area.

Our first stop is Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary. Yeah, it is kinda zoo like, but I love it there. We spend three hours wandering the paths peering at capybaras, red pandas, wombats, an emu, kangaroos, a salt water crocodile, birds of all descriptions and, of course, koalas.

Since we are in the south end of the Gold Coast, we hit Kirra Beach also. Kirra Beach is sheltered so it is a spot on the coast where the waves are not so daunting. We all swim and frolic in the water, which is refreshing after the walking in Currumbin. Our lunch stop is a bakery where we munch down beef pies. The bakeries here serve these pies and they are a favourite for the locals for lunch. Hot and tasty, they satisfy our hunger.

Red Panda

Shopping. The next day we spend the morning at a huge dive shop (no one bought anything) and then at the Speedo outlet store in Harbourtown Outlet Mall. We attempt to buy swim suits for some ladies we swim with but the selection isn’t wonderful, after all it is an outlet store, and we only get two of five.

HOTA, the Gold Coast’s Home of the Arts is our destination the following day. It is free and very accessible for all ages. We wander the exhibits on the three levels of the gallery. From there we walk across Chevron Island to reach Surfers Paradise. A trip to the Gold Coast would not be complete without a trip to Surfers (and a walk past the Condom store). We do a loop down Main Street, which is shops and more shops, and then down the beach. The water rolling up the beach washing over our feet is relaxing and cool. I could walk for miles. But, it is time to go as we are driving back to Brisbane to deposit the rental vehicle and then B at the airport hotel as she flies out in the morning.

View from HOTA towards Surfers Paradise


We have been navigating using the GPS in the vehicle and it has worked quite well. We only take one wrong turn and it is easily corrected. I have done all the driving in Australia and am glad to arrive safely at the airport and hand over the vehicle. Phew!

The beach at Surfers Paradise

Since it is earlier (4:00pm) than we planned, Murray and I head back to the Gold Coast. The plan is to take the heavy rail train, like we always do.

Murray writes…..

We planned to take the train back to Robina to continue our visit with our family. Seems the train route is being worked on and it is only operating between the airport and south Brisbane. We rode the train for two stops and were then shunted to a bus to take us most of the way south. The bus started out on ‘normal’ roads and then ducked into a secret road system. Buses only. I have never seen anything like that before. Soon we were underground and only buses were in sight. No cars, no peds, no buildings, only buses. It was, to say the least, weird and very eerie. It was like being in an alien land. We soon popped out onto the surface but still buses only. This went on paralleling the M1 for miles to the south. We finally joined the real world and the bumper to bumper traffic on the M1 as we hit the outskirts of Brisbane. We expected to get back on the train at Helensvale but instead an express bus was waiting. It only stopped at the regular train stops so the trip was relatively short. It still took us 4 hours for a 1.5 hour train trip. We finally arrived at our son’s place exhausted after a busy day.

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Ubud Legong Dance

For our last day in Ubud, we walk a path through the rice fields called the Sweet Orange Walk Trail. It is well used by walkers and folks staying in the various hostels and home stays along the trail. 

Some of the rice fields look in disrepair, weedy and unkempt, while others are well tended and healthy. We spot egrets standing in the mud of a recently flooded rice field. Ducks are plentiful and delight in bathing in the water channels used for irrigation.

It is peaceful on the trail, but very very hot. Before we know it, we are at the end and turn towards the path that will take us down the market street and back to the hotel. The vendors call out, want to buy a sarong, wooden bowl, trinket, coaster? At the end of the street, we sit down for a rest and are approached by one of the numerous taxi drivers in town. As we do need a ride to the airport the next day, Murray commences bargaining with this fellow. They both know the game and bargain hard and laugh and have fun doing it. They settle on a price, get the details straight and we have a ride. Nice fellow.

We actually spend the afternoon in our room, where it is cool, resting packing for our flight the next day. We think we might have over done it in the sun as we both feel slightly off. We want to make sure we can go out tonight as we have tickets for a dance performance.

Some unknown impulse makes me grab an umbrella on the way to the dance performance. We arrive 40 minutes early and are about half way back in the seating. We while away the time waiting by chatting with the folks sitting around us. And then the music starts up.

There are six female dancers and one male. The females do most of the numbers and they wear beautiful costumes. They use their hands and eyes for expression. Hands bend and fingers move. 

The music is performed by men playing gamelans, hand drums and xylophone type instruments. It is mesmerizing.

During the third number, he skies open up and it pours. Out come our umbrellas and the crowd scampers to find cover. The troupe finishes the number and we all relocate to a covered venue across the street. Our location in the first venue (at the back) facilitates getting seats in the front row in the covered venue. Ten minutes later, the show starts up again. B and I enjoy the show and are glad we decided to go.

(All photos by BH)

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Indonesia Postscript

Random thoughts on Indonesia.

The streets are crowded. There is enough cars to create a traffic jam and the there are 10 as many scooters as there are cars. The talking horns of years ago seem to be a thing of the past. The horns are still have alternative uses other than to express anger like they are used for in North America. They still say, ‘hello’, or ‘hey I am on you left (right), or ‘I am just around the blind corner’ and a few dozen other things but they are now used with discretion.

The drivers are extremely polite. In NA a driver trying to enter a long line of traffic from a parking area is likely to have a long wait. Some considerate driver in the line MIGHT wave them in but most people have their own agenda and just keep driving. In Indonesia drivers are more likely to make a space for a diver trying to make a left-hand turn or squeeze into a line. I am quite sure the gesture generates good karma and sooner or later that Karma comes back.

You can tell where people are from in the world by what side of the sidewalk they TRY to walk on. It not an infallible method of determining  their home country but if a group of people are trying to walk on their right side they are most likely from NA or Europe and have not been in Indonesia long enough yet to do as the Romans do.

I did not see one e car in Indonesia the entire month we were there. There were only a couple of e scooters and no e bikes. As a side note very few bikes at all. I don’t think there is any infrastructure for charging the e vehicles. Petrol is king and it will be that way for a while.

Sidewalk maintenance is a low priority. Even in major tourist areas where sidewalks were once in place they have deteriorated to the degree of being a danger. As you walk along the walk window shopping is; glance at the walk ahead and analyze your next few steps, look at the shop beside you and repeat every few seconds.

Indonesian food is, I think, easy on the stomach. I had very little heartburn the entire two weeks we were there. At home I chew a tums tablet at least every couple of days. We did not eat at any truly Indoesian warungs but we did eat a some not so touristy warungs. We made sure we the food we ordered was cooked on site at the time we ordered it and did not suffer any ill effects. Things have improved for the tourist in the last few years. You can pretty much not worry about ordering ice in you drink but it is still a decision to be made with caution. If it is a place frequented by locals only I think it is best to err on the no ice side.

I am not much for air conditioning. Most of the time I find it too cold and prefer the cooling effect of a ceiling fan. I found Indonesia stinking hot this time. Especially when on land without the tempering effect of the water when you are on a boat. The AC anywhere, in a shop when we were window shopping, in a restaurant/warung when it had an indoor section, and in the hotel room when we returned from one of our 4 hours jaunts, is completely necessary to bring down the core temperature.

Normally I put my foot down when it comes to ‘tourist shows’, shows of cultural dance or the such put on specifically for tourists, so Debbie and I do not go. B expressed interest in attending and Debbie found a way around my refusal to attend. I picked the shadow puppet show and you may have already read I was somewhat disappointed. The next night we attended the traditional dance show. It was OK but I can assure you it will be the last time I go to see one no matter how many times we return to Indonesia.

I think I also mentioned, and maybe not, Indonesia is a cash society. It takes a bit to get used to using cash again. Counting out bills and coins and making sure you get the proper change. In many ways it is easier and more fun than using a card. When using money you are definitely more aware of the amount you are spending. The thing about money in Indonesia is has devalued so much you must carry around a very large wad of bills. The coins are almost worthless but are still in use, they are very light in weight so they aren’t much of a bother and don’t weight down your pockets. It would be more convenient if the government would either issue larger denomination of bills or revalue the existing money to meet the current value of goods and services.

These are just some odd thoughts about a very interesting country. A place worth visiting. A place where the people are so friendly and accepting of us aliens. Go but be respectful of their way of life and preserve what is there for next person to enjoy.

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