Temple Visit

Posted on April 7, 2026 by murray

We only dove 2 dives on Monday so there was time to do a little exploring. Most of the things we found to do here involved long treks but there were a couple of temples that looked worth a visit, Pura Pulaki and Pura Pabean. They are just across the highway from one another and supposedly adjacent to a beach. They are in Pemuteran and that is too far to walk from Sumberkima so we arranged for a taxi to get us there and then pick us up.

Frankly I don’t think the temples were worth the trouble. They are very colourful with lots of gods, and guardian animals like dragons and tigers, and there is a whole group of generally docile monkeys to see but the temples themselves are rather unspectacular and all of the installations are covered in wire mesh to keep the monkeys at bay. This definitely takes away from the presentation.

Pemuteran Temples

As an aside, the monkeys can be seen swimming in the ocean. We presumed to cool off on a very hot day. A couple of the monkeys took offence when I approached the sea wall where they were sitting and moved toward me with bared teeth. So I bared my teeth and loomed large, they stopped their advance. So, some caution is required, they are not all docile.

Pemuteran

At the entrance to both temples are guest info kiosks where you can hire a guide if you so desire. Again, unless you are interested in the details of the Hindu significance of the gods and animals, I don’t really think it would be worth it. You also MUST wear a sarong when you tour the grounds, you get one at the info kiosk but they expect a “donation” once you have been outfitted. We have visited so many temples and churches we normally don’t pay to see one but we had just spent money on a taxi to get to these temples so we were sort of a captive audience.

Pemuteran

The adjacent ‘beach’ is definitely not my idea of paradise. There is quite a large seawall between you and the fist sized rocks that hinders access. The only stairs are at the east end and it would require some wading to get to a place where you could place a towel. You would be in for a very hot day. There is absolutely no shade. Again, quite disappointing, we had arranged for the taxi to pick us up in 1.5 hours expecting to spend some time walking along the beach and since it was so dismal we ended up killing 50 minutes just waiting for the cab.

My take is you are better off heading elsewhere or spending your time recovering from your days dives.

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Menjangan Diving

Posted on April 6, 2026 by murray

Didn’t know what to expect as far as diving in Menjangan. One of the ladies on the Neptune liveaboard dove here many years ago and told us she remembered diving walls. Our first day of diving we indeed dove walls. The walls are cover in coral and there was a goodly amount of fish activity. Unfortunately, the tides had delivered so much garbage, mostly plastic, it made for unpleasant diving.

Menjangan

The remaining days we dove the west side of the island and it was extremely good diving. Sometimes current, sometimes fast, sometimes slow, sometimes not. The walls are covered in coral, top to bottom and the entire length of the wall. Great fields of the same type of coral covered large sections of the reef. The wildlife is abundant. Many schools of fish hover in the blue just off the reef or swim buy in long ribbons that seem unending. Some of the outstanding thing we saw are; a green turtle the size of a small human, of course there is a pygmy sea horse or two, orangutan crabs, we did see a transitioning harlequin sweet lips and a few unusual nudi’s. Today we saw a cuddle fish nestled in some soft coral that was so well camouflaged the dive guide had to almost touch it before we realized what he was pointing at.  

Menjangan
Menjangan

We dove with the same company that we used a couple of years ago when diving in Lemongan, Blue Corner Diving. We were the only 3 guests all week. Our boat captain, Putu and dive guide, Putu are both excellent. They took care of our gear, helped us don our BCD’s and generally entertained us the entire week.

There are not great hoards of divers here. We only crossed paths with other groups once or twice. There are a lot of boats in the area but 80% of them carry snorkelers. If you find yourself on Bali and looking for somewhere to dive, Menjangan is a good choice and I recommend Blue Corner Diving.

Menjangan
Orangutan Crab

Debbie here. I am also impressed by the great patches of pristine coral. Compared to the Caribbean, this area is Eden. I love huge schools of fish, and we see many on each dive. The unusual critters have to be hunted for, but it’s wonderful when we find one. Overall, diving here is excellent and if you come, stay for a few days to get the full view of the reefs.

Menjangan
Pygmy Seahorse
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Sumberkima

Posted on April 6, 2026 by murray

We booked the Mangroove Bay Boutique Hostel thinking it was in Pemuteran. It is not really in Pemuteran but in Sumberkima. It is not a popular as Pemuteran but it is close to the dock where we can be picked up for diving. The hostel has 2 “wooden houses” and they are our rooms for 5 nights. We are here to dive the reef that surrounds Menjangan Island.

I went for a long walk yesterday. Sumberkima is a bit upscale from say Sorong. I think it gets its fair share of tourists, at least in July and August. Part of the reason for walking was to scout out possible places to eat. The search was not very successful. There is one place close to the Mangroove that had possibilities, the Krecak Bar and Grill. It is adjacent to the Bangsel Harbour. Boats for divers, snorkelers and other tourists leave from the jetty so the Krecak is easy to get to. We eventually ate there and would recommend it. It is a small place, the food is all cooked when ordered so it is safe for the tourist’s tender stomachs. It is far more affordable than the restaurants attached to the hotels. The owners/workers are very personable. We were engaged in conversation for a ½ hour after our dinner. Always good to chat with local people.

The highway is very busy and not really a pleasant place to walk. It is however lined with all of the businesses in town. If you are in need of car or scooter repair, a hair cut, maybe a new tee shirt or a bottle of Coca-Cola you will need to venture out to the highway. Although the drivers are quite used to pedestrians my advice is to stick to the gravel fringe off the side of the asphalt.

One step away from the highway and you are in a residential area. The house are constructed very well and for the most part are well maintained. The yards are either dirt or hard surface, not landscaped like yards in Europe or North America. High block fences and gates define each property. I am not sure why, Indonesia seems to be a relatively safe place. It must be a legacy hangover from the days of warring kingdoms.

Like anywhere in Bali, scooters rule the road (highway) in Sumberkima. They are much less expensive than a car. The weather is conducive to an open-air vehicle all year round and a family of four can be transported with a little cuddling up. You can transport anything, full height ladders, several bunches of bananas, 10 or 12 full sizes watermelons, crates with live chickens, whatever ½ ton truck drivers can fit in the box of their truck can be carried on scooter. They get you to where you are going faster than a car. When car traffic stops for whatever reason scooters squeeze by on either side, slide between the stopped vehicles to switch from the curb side to the centerline and then drive into oncoming traffic. By the time a car or truck reaches what was the cause of the traffic jam the scooter is so far down the road it will not be seen again. Helmets are a legal requirement in Bali when on a scooter and in Denpasar the vast majority of scooter people wear a helmet. In the hinterland however I don’t think the rule is very tightly enforced. I am not sure I saw even one helmet in 2+hours of walking along the highway.

Gas stations come in a few sizes and types. There are your everyday variety. Pertamina is the brand name and they are pretty much like any station anywhere in the world. Then there is the old fashioned pumps that take over ½ of the storefront of the corner store. The budding entrepreneur can set up a stand on the side of the road and decant gas from a jerry can into 1 litre plastic water bottles then sell gas to passing scooter drivers a litre at a time. Convenience is the name of the game here.

The people are so friendly. Almost everyone I passed adult or child had a hello or salamat siang, and all with a wide smile. Smile back and a connection is made.

Even though Bali is predominantly Hindu, Indonesia is a Muslim country. And there are a fair number of Muslims in the Sumberkima area. That being the case there is a 5am alarm every morning. Muslim or not you are welcomed to the new day with the call to prayer. The hotel is in the midst of several different Mosques and each Muezzin has a different idea as to when 5am is. The more call is supposed to be at sunrise but my experience in other countries is 5am is standard. Because each Mosque call the faithful at a different time we are serenaded from close to 5am to about 6.30am. Just in case you missed the first call. The word chanted are basically God is good and there is only one god which is God but in the morning there is often a line “Prayer is better than sleep.” A bit of humour to break the early morning groggies.

All in all an OK place to hang for a couple of days especially since the diving is so good.

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Denpasar to Pemuteran

Posted on April 5, 2026 by murray

We are headed to a new place in Bali. To the NW corner of the island we go. We have hooked up a ride through the hotel and are therefore sheltered from the bargaining with the plethora of taxi touts waiting at the arrivals gate. A bit of hunting around and me meet our fellow, to the parking garage and we are off.

It is a long way to Pemuteran, 4+ hours if things are perfect. Of course the passage through Denpasar is tedious. It takes well over an hour just to clear the city limits. Then we move along quite well. About 2 hours in the driver almost insists we stop at a warung, (after listening to the driver I believe it is pronounced, war-ung) Billy’s 69 for a bite to eat and a pee.  We were not hungry but amused him anyway and ordered a pizza between the three of us. Maybe he gets a kickback from this particular place. It is definitely a tourist restaurant in the middle of nowhere, tourist prices and a 17% tax and service charge, so it must depend on drivers stopping there for their revenue.

We check in and hit the sack. I was out fast and slept well.

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Menjangan Island

Posted on April 5, 2026 by debbie

Yesterday was a 16 hour slog from the Neptune One, in Sorong to the Mangroove Boutique Hostel, in Sumberkima. Two flights and a four hour car ride has us arriving at the Mangroove at 9:00 pm exhausted. We quickly unpack our dive gear as we are diving in the morning.

Menjangan (which means deer) Island is a marine park, part of the West Bali National Park. Endemic deer inhabit the island and are also protected. There happens to be Hindu Temples on the island. Today is a sacred day for blessing etc so there is boat traffic to the island not just for diving.

Our first dive is good, with healthy soft and hard corals and schools of fish. As we get shallow, we see a constant stream of plastic garbage floating in the water. Our dive guide and Murray grab what floats by them, but they can’t get it all. It is quite disturbing as I have never seen so much garbage in the water before. We have a few more days of diving at Menjangan so I hope the garbage isn’t a usual thing in this area.

The next day, we dive the Dream Wall. And it is a dream. The corals, both soft and hard, are exquisite and abundant. We see Blue Spot Sting Rays, flatworms, a green turtle and what looks like a grandpa pufferfish. I could dive that site again.

The diving has redeemed itself from that first dive and I am now looking forward to the next three days.

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Diving Raja Ampat

Posted on April 4, 2026 by debbie

Raja Ampat is one of those places that every diver should go to. I could write about the health of the corals and the abundance of fish, but I will show you photos instead. Enjoy!

Blennie
Nudibranch
Manta
Anemone fish
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Land Excursions from the Neptune One

Posted on April 4, 2026 by debbie

We’re into day number five on the scuba dive liveaboard. Today is a day of unusual excursions. 

This morning we “dive” with dolphins. Not as cool as it sounds. Local fishermen use large nets to scoop up squid through the night. In the morning, they pull in the net, sort through the wildlife to keep the squid and throw the unwanted fish (dead, I think) back into the water. The dolphins have realized that they can get an easy meal of fish by hanging around the boats. We divers attach ourselves to lines at the back of the boat and watch the dolphins eat and frolic. The dolphins come within a few feet of us, so it is quite cool.

Our second excursion to day is to a small lake to swim with jellyfish. Apparently, the jelly fish got trapped in the lake and have been there a very long time. Since there are no predators, they have lost their sting. Crazy tourists now swim with these orange beings. It is interesting but I did not intentionally touch any of them.

The other day, we go on a land excursion to view a heart shaped bay. We must climb up a million (at least) stairs for a bird’s eye view. It is a unique shape and very colourful. By the time we are working our way down the stairs, sweat is dripping off my face and my clean shirt is now not so clean.

Misool

By the time I am posting this, we have gone on another land excursion. It is to a lookout in mid Raja Amat, in the Dampier Straight. The view from the lookout is a classic for Raja Ampat. Small islands surrounded by clear blue green water. We drink coconut water right from the coconut after sweating up and down the climb.

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Neptune One Live-a-Board

Posted on April 3, 2026 by debbie

The Neptune One accommodates 16 guests. There are eight Americans (six are a group of youngish friends from California that call themselves the Dive Boyz), two Germans, one Swiss, a Brit living in Switzerland and four Canadians. The group gets along well and there is laughter and conversation at every meal.

The Lower Deck has four double guest rooms, crew quarters and the engine room. The Main Deck houses the dive deck at the back, kitchen, dining area and lounge. A sundeck is on the front of the main deck. The Upper Deck has four slightly larger double guest rooms, the wheelhouse and a small sun deck. The Top Deck has a large sundeck with bean bag chairs and no shade. It’s not used much during the hot part of the day.

The crew numbers 17 with personnel for piloting the boat and skiffs, cooking, serving, maintaining the mechanical systems and diving. The routines are terribly efficient and performed with dedication. There is always someone ready to help, whether it is boarding the dive skiff, taking off a wetsuit or a giving a hand going down stairs. And the helper always has a smile. The crews are what makes the live-a-board experience so wonderful.

Our routine is set from the first day. Up at 6:00, small breakfast, dive briefing, dive, big breakfast, dive briefing, dive, lunch, dive briefing, dive, snack, rest, dive briefing, night dive, supper, next day briefing, sleep. There is a small amount of time in between all this to rest, tend to cameras, read or visit.

The cruise was supposed to go into northern Raja Ampat, but because of a dispute with some of the islands, we are rerouted to Misool. Misool is still part of Raja Ampat but south west of Sorong, instead of north. The diving in Misool is exceptional with colourful, healthy corals and an abundance of fish life. At the end of the cruise, we sail to mid Raja Ampat in the Dampier Straight.

Each dive is preceded by a dive briefing to inform us of the terrain, currents, maximum depth, dive length and possible sightings. They last less than 10 minutes.The 16 guests are divided into four groups of four divers, each with their own dive guide. One day, two groups go first, the next day we alternate. It’s easier being in the second group as we have more time to get dressed. I am usually the last one ready when we are first as I wear so many wetsuit layers to stay warm. There are two skiffs, each skiff taking one group and then returning for the second group.

After the briefing, we don our wetsuits, booties, dive computer, grab our masks and cameras and we are ready. Once in the skiff, we ride out to the drop zone and all back roll into the water at the same time. Sorta like navy seals! The skiffs stay close while we are under water. When we surface, after an hour, we climb back on the skiff and zoom back to the mother ship to stow our gear, rinse off, eat and do it again.

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Sorong

Posted on March 25, 2026 by murray

Spent last night on the plane to Sorong. We chose Garuda Air because we wanted to avoid Lion Air. The last few times we have dealt with Lion they have messed us up. Changing flight times or cancelling them all together with no regard to connections or time sensitive arrivals. They sent us one email saying a flight had been cancelled and a new flight was scheduled for two hours later. We were on a boat and most of the others on the boat were taking the same flight. Only ½ the group had got that email so we all went for the earlier time and lo and behold the flight had not been cancelled and was at the original time.

The Garuda flight boards at midnight in Jakarta and arrives in Sorong at the ungodly hour of 5am. Garuda got us here without much messing around. So if you want less hassle Garuda is probably the choice. If you want better departure and arrival times you would have to take your chance with Lion Air. 

Sorong

Once in Sorong we did not have any plans so I went for a walk looking for places to eat. Sorong is not a tourist town. Frankly other than a drop off place to get to Raja Ampat I don’t really think you would want to spend any time here. Nice enough place but not much going on from a tourist perspective. The only eating establishments I found were what I would call standard local Indonesian restaurants. These are typically small places with only a few chairs. The food is kept in a sneeze guard type cabinet used as the store front. No heating, no refrigeration, and open to the air on the back side. The food sits in bowls all day long. When you order whatever it is you want it is spooned out into a bowl and served. These are not places to eat for those of us with sensitive western stomachs. It is a recipe for spending a couple of days sitting on the toilet. This of course meant that we were stuck eating in the hotel restaurant. Not our first choice but by far the safest one.

I did manage to stumble across the Remu Market. More or less a typical local market selling fruits, vegetables, household goods, clothing and just about anything one might need. Hundreds of small shops each with its own schtick. The market is huge. I wandered up and down aisles for ½ an hour and didn’t cover any where near the entire market. This is truly a locals market, I did not see one recognizable tourist the entire time. 

Sorong

I ventured into the ‘hood’. I like to see how the ordinary people go about their daily life. It seemed to be a day when the kids were off school. I ran into hoards of children hanging out and playing in the street. They all wanted to at least say hi to the odd white man walking past. The neighbourhood is simple. The houses are small and built side by side. The yard is the asphalt or dirt road just outside the door. There are not very many houses that would work in the northern climate where we live. Windows with glass and doors that would keep the weather at bay are a rarity. 

I spent the day seeing what most Indonesian people do. Sorong is totally different from Bali. It is a working city, tourism is not a major industry and Sorong does not put on the airs that Bali must in order to keep the foreigners happy. The people don’t have the excess we in the west ‘need’ but they seem happy anyway, going about what they need to do to live. 

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A Stroll Through Kuta

Posted on March 23, 2026 by debbie

Nusa Dua, south of Bali’s airport was on our list of possible places to check out. Looking at the area, on Google Maps, further yesterday, I realize that it is full of high end resorts, shops and restaurants. Other than the beach, there doesn’t seem to be any interesting streets to walk down. So we change our plan.

Yesterday, while riding in the Grab taxi back to our hotel, we drove through the northern part of Kuta. We didn’t realize that Kuta was larger than what we had already walked. So the plan is to walk north to the shopping area of Kuta and then take a taxi back. 

Kuta Beach
Kuta Beach

Once we get past the area where we have already been, we walk by the water. In short, if you are looking for a beach holiday, do not go to Kuta. The water is quite wavy, good for surfers,  not so good for playing or swimming. The beach is full of garbage, vendors and permanent kiosks and people. Every vendor asks you to buy a drink, sari, snack, surf lesson, hat. Not my idea of a nice beach environment.

Kuta Beach
Kuta Beach

We walk inland to intersect with a road that we think all the shops are on. There are many shops for massages, tattoos, mani/pedi, flip flops, Bali crafts, clothes, coffee, the list is endless. I spy a small restaurant and we stop for a much needed drink, rest and lunch. Rice bowls with grilled salmon and edamame for B and me and beef rendang for Murray. It is a much needed stop and we feel rejuvenated after. 

There is a convenience store across the street so we go in to buy water. For a 1500ml, the price here is 6,000. The price for the same size of bottle at the store near our hotel, and the airport, is 16,000! Quite the difference. We bought two bottles!

Murray hails a taxi and bargains for a reasonable price. The traffic gets congested the closer we get to the airport. The vehicles, and scooters, move around one another very fluidly. No road rage, just polite giving and taking of position. It’s a karma thing. I let you in this time and next time someone will let me in. 

Back at the hotel, it is quiet and cool. No crowds, no noise, just calm. After a day strolling out in the world, that is just what we need.

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