Arrival on Saba

We wake up this morning and we are surrounded by clouds. You would think we were still in the Rockies ready to go skiing, instead we don our bathing suits and descend 1250 ft to the ocean and dive to the ocean bottom.

Travel day. Yesterday went without a hitch. Westjet. No canceled fights, no delays, nothing. Every flight left on time and voila we are at the hotel when we expected and only tired because we boarded a plane at 12.05 am and flew through the night.  We flew the last leg from St. Maartin to Saba on the pizza delivery flight. Domino’s in St. M. has a delivery on Saba and it is on our flight.

The people here on Saba are friendly to a person. The immigration guy  is pretty dead pan but very nice and wishes us a nice stay. The taxi driver is a bit dry but gets us here safe and sound. Wim the hotel owner and Lynn the diver shop owner are both enthusiasic and great ambassadors for the island. They want you to like the place and the amount of info each inparted to us is far more than we can remember.

Today is our first dive day. Always an apprehensive time. Today is no different. The first dive is test. When we moor there is no current. When the dive brief is over the capitan says the current has picked up and suggests when we jump in hang on to the line. We get in the water and the current is raging. Kicking into it we make not forward progress what so ever. By the time we reach the coral head we seek I had used 500 lbs. of air and thought “This is going to be a short dive”. It is. I don’t feel so bad because everyone is hanging onto the bowline at the same time. 38mins, one of the shortest dives I have done in a long time.

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The second dive is much less stressful until we try to exit the water and the seas are tossing the boat around so much I cannot remove my fins and have to assend the ladder fins on.

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The boat trips are not long so we are back in port early. That gives us time to peruse the village. Yesterday the trip to Windwardside, the village at the top of the mountain was an eye opener. The whole island is only 4 sq mi and the Windwardside is at 1250 ft. That is 1250 ft in 1 mi. Very steep. I didn’t count the switchbacks but there are a lot.

The ride down to The Bottom, the village where the dock is, is not much different than yesterday’s ride. These roads are not for the faint of heart. The traffic is not heavy but there is no shortage of cars either.

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Today we had a chance to do a bit of exploration. The roads are steep enough that walking is labourious. We head up one road and I am able to pace of the slope. It works out to about 22% and this is the norm. At the top of this climb we find a Chinese food restaurant. I not  sure how many tourists would be will to take that walk. I hope for the restaurant’s sake there are a lot of locals that like Chinese food or the tourists willing to spring for a short taxi ride.

The people here have pride in the properties they own. Most of the house are in very good shape. I would say this is not the case in most of the Caribbean. The climate is hard on buildings and maintance does not seem to be a priority. Hear the houses are whitewashed regularly. The metal red or green roofs, which are easy to see because of the steep slopes, are in good repair. The streets are clear of junk and a good protion of the yards are kept up so they can be used as an outdoor room.

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This island seems to take its toll on inhabitants. There is no single expanse designated as grave yard but there are graves here and there through out the village. In fact the view out one of our hotel windows is a grave plot with two or three above ground concrete plots. Nicely done but a bit weird. There are sure a lot of graves considering the size of the population.

First impessions are very favorable. Diving has been diffcult but from what we understand that is not the norm. The place is completely different from other places we have been. The people of course make the place and those we have run into have made a very good impression.

After our dive we rose again into the cloudy mountain top. The fog has been getting steadly thicker and it now slightly obscures the restaurant 100 ft across the road.

 

 

 

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Top of the World and Trees

Murray in his element!

Murray in his element!

Last day today up at Sol Mountain Lodge. J and A want us to ski with them today. After much grilling about where we would ski, terrain and trees, Murray and I agree to go with them. Our group today numbers 7.

It is a long trek up over a ridge to an area called Merlot. We walk all the way to the top of the low mountain. It feels like being on top of the world. Snow covered, not many trees and a view that goes forever. We do not linger as the wind is trying to blow us off the top.

Top of the World

Top of the World

A long ski down to where the trees start and we skin up and hike up part way. My legs are telling me I need lunch. Ski down, stop for lunch in the sun and the shelter of the wind. Everyone takes two more runs down the steeper part of the terrain. I wait for them and watch their technique aspiring to be able to ski like them.

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We are all fatigued and are nursing various hurts (mostly blisters) so it is an easy decision to head back to the lodge. We somehow miss the “easy” route I was told we would take down, and end up skiing down through…..wait for it……TREES!!! The one thing I have have been avoiding like an old boyfriend.

J is my white knight and makes nice tight snowplow turns down through the trees, which I follow like my life depends on it. Murray follows as tail gunner in case I decide to have a chat with a tree. It wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. I think I concentrated so hard on J’s tracks I forgot about the trees. We punch out the bottom and glide into the meadow. WHO HOO! I made it!

Today we were at the top of the world and skied through the trees. Next week we will be in the bottom of the sea swimming through the coral heads.

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Ahhh!

Today there is some relief from the sun. It has been relentless and when you’re surrounded by snow the sun hits you from all angles. It’s like standing in a mirror box. High altitude and intense sun makes for sun burn on any exposed skin. Most of the time that would be from the shirt collar to the hat brim. The amount of sun screen used by 15 people skiing for 5 days is amazing. Even lathering with SPF 30 only helps a little, everyone of us has a bit of a red glow, some more than others.

The clouds move in about 10 this morning. It was instant relief from the oppresive glare but it hampered the softening of the snow. Each night the snow freezes and there is a crust that makes for easy travel but marginal skiing. Debbie and I search around for a slope she can ski that faces south. We found a couple of places to ski. The sun is ensconsed behind the cloud and the snow is what it is but we are not skiing ice crust and Debbie has her best runs of the week.

The run home has been elephant snot (pigsnot, schmoo) all week and today, with the hidden sun, it was 1″ of soft snow on a hard base. Ideal for skiing, so today we get to ski to the lodge. The day could have been a write off but we perservered and we had another great one.

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Baulder

Debbie’s day off. I head out with A, J and G. It’s the other side of the valley today. We’re in no big hurry to get out the door as it is day 3, and are tired and yesterday it did not soften up until around noon. It’s a long walk to the top and we end up there at about 11.30, the snow is perfect. We spot a couple of eastish slopes that might be worth skiing but there is ton of terrain over the ridge where the snow is exactly the right consistency. It is definately not challanging but the snow is great. We do 3 runs on that side and it is time to head back. The out run is rolling, long, and the snow is variable consistency but it is fun.

Today it is a lot about survival. It is the third hot day in a row, the wind, sun, fresh air and all day exercise really takes its toll. The first ‘long’ walk is ok and it isn’t too taxing. Each repetative yo yo I can feel the fatigue setting in. After the third run I know it is time to head home yet there is a wall of slope between us and down time. After reaching the bottom we travel along the creek until we can find a route through the cliff. It presents itself and up we go.  B, one of the younger guys we had met up with sets a super track but the slope is westish and the sun is beating down hard. I assend solely on mental energy. My body is tired, the sun is killing me and each step is effort. Didn’t expect to see the lodge but there is the sauna and the pain ends. There is a cold Coke waiting and it has my name on it.

Unless you have been high in the mountains in the winter you probably don’t understand why we push ourselves to such limits, but one trip up to the alpine with 3 meters of snow and I’m quite sure it would become clear.

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Snow, Ice, Slush and Schmoo

It is said that the Inuit have dozens of words for snow and ice. We are experiencing many of those here at Sol Mountain Lodge.

Itwas cold enough to freeze the top of the snow last night. Mur and I are out the door at 8:30 this morning. He hike up to an area called Chardonney South. We are early and the crust hasn’t started to soften. We sit down to wait.

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We decide to ski down and we ski ice. As a newish skier, this freaks me out and I wipe out twice on the way down. They next time down is about better, not so icy.

The ice is slowly softening as the sun moves around to shine on the slope. A different type of ice than earlier. We find a long run down and then stop for lunch.

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Our next chosen slope finds the snow soft, corn snow they call it. Mur is excited and we have two excellent runs down. Murray has a big grin on his face at the bottom.

As we make our way back to the lodge the snow is turning into schmoo (pigsnot). Grabby, uneven, hard to turn in.

I think we experienced some of those words from the Inuit today.

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Sol Mountain Lodge

Five of us (of our group of 13) board a mosquito of a helicopter in Revelstoke and fly down the Columbia River Valley, turn right and buzz over the peaks. The ride is made thrilling (for me at least) by having the pilot thread the chopper through a narrow “vee” at one of the peaks. The swoop around the lodge to the helipad was exhilarating.

We carry our skis, gear and food to the lodge and set about organizing ourselves before the second load and third loads of our group arrive from Cherryville. Murray and I stow our food, make lunch, lay out gear.

Soon after the second group arrives, Murray and I are geared up and putting the skins on our skis. We are going to ski some “bunny runs” not too far from the lodge. It is about 11:00 and the snow is getting soft.

A, J, G, B and C hiking up

A, J, G, B and C hiking up

A long walk, couple of runs and then a much needed lunch break.

Lunch view

Lunch view

A couple more runs to get practise on my technique and for Mur to get some turns and we start the ski down to the lodge. The snow is that “pig snot” I mentioned in yesterday’s post. Hard to make turns and grabby on the skis.

A great start to our adventure.

Done skiing for the day

Done skiing for the day

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Backcountry Skiing in April

We are in Revelstoke to catch a heli to Sol Mountain Lodge tomorrow to embark on another backcountry ski adventure. This one is with a group of 13 people, mostly from Sundance Ski Shop. There will be various levels of skiing and backcountry expertise, from newbies to very experienced, in both categories. Murray and I are by far the oldest skiers going, with the average age about 25. Should be fun!

Murray has been watching the Avalanche Canada website meticulously as April tends to be a high avalanche danger month due to the spring temperatures. The website is the go to place for all backcountry enthusiasts to determine conditions.

Murray’s thoughts are to get up and out the door early, ski till about noon and then head back to the lodge. Since he is skiing with me, a couple steps above a newbie skier, we will be skiing the “beginner” shallow sloped terrain, which is generally south facing up at Sol. These south facing slopes get the impact of the sun in the afternoons, which turns the snow into “pig snot” and is very hard to ski.

Some of the group have hired a guide to tour them through the backcountry. This is an excellent idea as these guys are new to the backcountry and to the area. Another group has been to the lodge before and will head out on their own.

We hope to get some good turns in and a nice break at a wonderful lodge in the back country. We will keep you updated!

 

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Backcountry Skiing – Packing for the Trip

There are two packing lists on our blog for backcountry skiing, one for day trips and one for what is needed for living in a lodge. This post discusses some points about packing for the lodge.

When helicoptering into a backcountry lodge, weight is crucial, so only take what you really need. Leave the fashionable outfits at home. Take comfortable, warm clothes. Sweats or yoga type clothing will be just fine. Depending on your inclinations, even leave the swimsuit for the sauna at home! Indoor shoes or slippers are a must. PJs might be a good idea if you make middle of the night runs to the bathroom.

On the morning of the helicopter ride to the lodge, dress in your ski gear – all of it. Right down to your ski boots, pants, jacket, mitts, toque and goggles. It saves weight if you are wearing all your gear, plus there is work to be done once you land at the lodge as all the bags and boxes of food and skis have to be hauled from the helipad to the lodge. For bags for our Mistaya trip, I had one smallish duffel type bag and my pack, although both were stuffed to capacity.

We left our “car clothes”, which we wore on the drive to the mountains, in a bag in our car, ready to don on our return. It is more comfortable driving home in jeans than in ski pants.

Toiletries are toiletries. Gotta have them. But ladies, don’t bring all your hair products and makeup. Skiing all day and recovering in the evenings do not require fancy hair and makeup!

Murray was at Blanket Lodge this year and the sleeping was communal. Four guys to a room. Earplugs and a sleepmask are a good idea in a situation as this.

I packed a very healthy first aid kit for Mistaya to deal with smallish injuries, blisters and sickness. This is not a necessity, but I feel better having access to these items if I really need them.

We have found that using liquor store boxes to transport food in works well for packing the helicopter. They are small and fit in all the nooks in the chopper. Thought needs to be put into quantities of food taken as you do not want to haul out too much excess food.

When we packed for our Mistaya trip we used both the “Day Trip” and “Lodge” packing lists as they go together and do not overlap too much. We also had a food packing list that was specific to what meals we were providing.

 

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Mistaya Finale

It snowed 12 cm last night according to the Storm Board. That usually means the snow is deeper where the wind blows a bit. This can be a problem and increases the avalanche danger but we are headed back to The Whaleback and there is little chance of a slide there, the slope is not steep enough.

Off we go, our up track from the last few days is filled in. A good sign. It is easy to navigate at the bottom of the valley but as we reach the slope we are going to ski the vis is about 3 ft. I generally know where to go but the exact route is hard to follow. It is up very shallow depression in the terrain and then right to the top of the knoll. I can’t even see enough definition to follow the depression. I ricochet from side to side by feeling when the tips of my skis tip up. Missed, but only by 50 M or so. We only realize this on our 2nd trip up and we can see where I should have gone.

The skiing is outstanding. As I ski down, the snow is coming up on to my lap. It is what us BC skiers are searching for and we found it. All 7 days were great and each day had its highlights and its down points but today is the flagship day. 12 cm on the storm board translated into 20 or 30 cm on the slope. All the tracks covered in and snow as smooth as silk.

Murray and K almost back at the lodge

Murray and K almost back at the lodge

A fond farewell.

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The Climb

The group decides to start our ski day at “The Whaleback”. We will ski it a couple of times and maybe go to “The Leprechaun”.

The top of The Whaleback is about 1,000 feet above the lodge. If we assume a story of a building is about 12 feet, the climb to the top, right from the lodge, is about an 80 story building. OUCH!

We follow the track Sandra and I put in yesterday. Step, pause, step, pause. A slow pace ensures that we do not sweat too much on the way up. (I am still learning about this heat/cold management.)

The ski down is great! New powder, trackless expanses to choose from. We gather at about 3 /4 of the way down the big slope.

On the Whaleback uptrack

On the Whaleback uptrack

And, we go up again. This time it is about a 40 story building. It takes us about 25 minutes, but B says it feels like 3 hours. And, we ski down again.

At the bottom, part of the group decides to head over to “The Leprechaun”, but N, J and I stay put. We have a quick lunch and a hot drink.

And, we go up again. Another 40 story building. And, we ski down again.

No wonder that my legs are tired.

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