Fancy Digs at the Volivoli

As resorts go the Volivoli Beach Resort is pretty posh. Each cabin is separate, with a view to the water. Nothing obstructs our view, not a tree, not a building, not even a beach. We are elevated so the floor of our deck is at tree top level. The sunset is directly off our deck. There are plenty of screened windows at the front and rear of the villa allowing the air to blow through and keeping the temp at quite a livable level.

Everything here seems in good repair. Unusual for a resort close to the ocean in a hot climate where most things are put off until tomorrow. The salt air has way of corroding absolutely everything and any place we have been, expensive or not, has hinges that don’t work properly, taps that leak or light switches that don’t really turn anything off or on. Here it seems if it is in need of repair it gets fixed.

Volivoli

The staff are to a person polite and friendly. They asked our names once when we walked in the first time and each time after we have been greeted by name. There are constantly people coming and going and they manage to remember everybody. Impressive.

Every dive operation is different. They each have their own pet ways of going about things. Something that is very important on one boat is hardly mentioned on another. Ra Divers is no exception. This boat is quite crowded. At least today. I think there are 12 divers, 3 dive masters and the capitan. The briefing is brief but after the dive I figure that it is all that is really needed. I know where we are at all points in the dive and really that is all that is necessary. The boat is easy to get on and off but there is no real protocol as to the who gets off when or when to descend or wait for you buddy or, or, or. So, hang loose, we have done this enough that we make our own plan and make it fit.

Ra divers

Under water we go as one group. Debbie and I are generally slow and end up at the back. One dive master leads and Debbie and I never see him, there is one dive master tail gunning and he has to wait for us and the third guy is out in the blue a bit making sure there are no renegades chasing sharks or the like. All the divers are good so the 3 dive master thing is a bit of overkill in my opinion. Then when we get back on the boat the capitan wants to know our max depth and length of dive. Not sure why, first time I have ever been asked that but like I said every boat is different. I don’t feel the dive op is run at the same exclusive standard as the resort. It is much the same as any dive company and maybe could be a bit more ‘exclusive’.

Volivoli

Overall the first two days at a fancy resort have been very enjoyable. It is chilled, comfortable and quiet even with a raging storm all day yesterday. We are mostly to ourselves which is good and bad. We are starting to meet people but the problem is most of the guests are in one group and it is kind of difficult to break into the tight circle. The boat is an enclosed space so it makes it easier to chat but ½ the conversation is in French and at that point I am lost. I think the diving is going to be good so all the rest is superfluous.

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Cyclone Keni

During the night, I wake up and hear the rain pelting down on our roof. I hear the wind in the palm trees. When we arise, the storm is ferocious.

Volivoli Resort

The storm is building

Volivoli Resort

Our guess as to whether we dive this morning is confirmed when Simon, the manager, stops by our breakfast table to tell us we are not diving. There has been a marine warning issued and no boats are allowed out, the airport is closed and Cyclone Keni has been ungraded to a category 3. THREE! Simon shows us the cyclone’s projected path and the resort is right on the edge. Nadi and the west side of the island are going to get hit hard.

The storm seems to pulsate. The wind blows continuously but the rain comes down in truck loads and then abates and then comes down again. We end up getting water coming in under our front door that has to be stopped up with beach towels. A lake forms in the entrance to the dining room and bar due to a plugged drain. Six or eight people, guests and staff work, to clear the water and dry the dark wood floor.

Volivoli Resort

View of the storm through our screen door. I was too afraid to open the door!

The resort is well built. There are extra reinforced beams holding the roof up and down on the dining room building. Before the storm reaches its peak, shutters are installed on the louvred windows. Our little bungalow will withstand nature’s forces this time. Apparently, two years ago Cyclone Winston, a category 5, tore the roofs off all the bungalows.

We read, do crossword puzzles, watch the caps on the waves, perhaps 10 feet high, get bigger, watch the trees bend almost to breaking in the wind and try to convince ourselves to go for a swim in the pool to get some exercise (didn’t happen). 

Murray opens the door of the bungalow and the wind is so strong that he cannot keep the door from flying open with Murray holding on and sliding across the soaked tile veranda. Before he can react he slips, falls on his back and slides down into the greenery beside the veranda. All I can see is a leg sticking up in the air. He’s okay and after figuring out how to extract himself he crawls up out of the hole and across the deck. After more sliding and pushing, he manages to get the door closed. Won’t try that again! We inspect him for damage – a bruised elbow, sore hip and a bump on the head. He’ll live.

We now can say we survived a category 3 cyclone. Keni, you beast.

By 7:00 pm the storm has blown and rained itself out. There is hope for scuba diving tomorrow.

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I Jinxed It

Voli Voli resort

Today, smooth sailing went out the window. In prep for the next leg of the journey from Honolulu to Fiji, we snooze for a couple of hours at 3 in the afternoon. The alarm rings at 5, we dress and head out for dinner. On our walk earlier in the day we sussed out a restaurant close to the hotel and head straight there. It opens at 5.30. We walk through the door at 5.28 and immediately get schussed back out because we are 2 minutes early. The young waitress even points out the fact by noting the time on the computer cash register. When we return 4 minutes later we are not even the first to be seated. I don’t know how the other two folks timed their entrance so precisely. We are seated and an ‘older’ lady waits on us apologising for being rebuffed a few minutes earlier. I think this time one of the owners was dealing with us. The sushi is why we are there and it is of very high quality. The place is very Japanese, our waiter was struggling with her English and the two sushi chefs were older fellows most definitely of Japanese heritage.

We return to the hotel room and try to stay awake until our departure for the airport at 11.30pm to catch a 3am flight. Who the hell schedules these things? We get to the ticket counter a ½ hour before it even opens and sit with a small crowd that has gathered to wait for the attendants to arrive. There are stirrings behind the counter and we are encouraged to enter the shuttle and proceed to the counter to get processed. When we arrive at the counter we are informed the plane is 3 hours late and we will not be boarding until post 5am. Damn we could have slept in a bed for 5 hours and still arrive in time for the flight, instead we look forward to sitting in an airport lounge for a very long time, waiting.

As we walk down the long hall to the gate we note a few benches without the annoying anti sleep arm rests. The ones we walk by are all occupied by travellers stretched out sleeping. Continuing on past our gate we find a couple of those prized benches without inhabitants. They are molded fibreglass and although smooth might as well be rock, but they are long enough to stretch out on and we need sleep. We intended to do that on the plane but we are not going to make it to 5 o’clock so these benches are a welcome sight. It takes quite a while to find a method to match body curves to bench curves but with a bit of scrunching up and down and rolling this way and that to find padded body parts we both get a little shut eye. The body cools down when sleeping and though we just left -10C at home even Hawaii can get cold.

Debbie and I both awake at about the same time and have to get up and move. It could be the first time I have had to wear a jacket in a hot climate. Starbucks is the only place open. We don’t know if we will get any kind of food on the airplane so we think we should find something to tide us over and maybe some tea and hot chocolate to warm us up. We still have 2 hours till we are to load and we manage to milk our drinks so we can sit at the Starbuck’s seating.

The plane finally arrives, the gate opens and we are on board ready to fly. Missed the take off time by a few minutes but we are 3+ hours late anyway so a couple of minutes will make little difference. As long as our ride is there when we arrive I don’t care too much. Dammed if we don’t get breakfast on the plane and it looks like we get to Nadi in a much better frame of mind than if we had had to survive on a croissant and a hot chocolate. The plane is sparsely populated and we both find rows of unoccupied seat to stretch out on and continue to bag a few more precious minutes of sleep. I don’t know how this will affect our sleeping pattern when we arrive in Fiji but we are diving after the next sleep come hell or high water. We can chill a bit today and will for sure only do 2 dives tomorrow so we can lounge in the afternoon. By then our bodies should be in sync.

Arrival in Nadi is a little quicker than the 6.5 hours we were told it was going to take so somehow the pilot made back a few minutes on the flight. Upon landing we realize there is a rainstorm raging. The rain is coming down hard, the runway is shiny.

Fiji welcome present

Welcome present

At the exit gate there is a fellow with the dive resorts name on a sign. An affirmation he is our guy and we are in Land Cruiser, snorkel and all, and down the road. It rains hard and harder as we make our way towards the Volivoli. Last week when Cyclone Jodie passed by, the low-lying areas of Viti Levu were flooded. It made world news. We read about it in Edmonton. The rain storm we are driving through has just been classified Cyclone Keni. Now we have been in two official cyclones. Once a few years back in Myanmar and now in Fiji.

As we drive from the Nadi airport towards the Voli Voli Resort, our driver shows us where the flooding occurred with the last cyclone. Low areas of the road we travel were a metre under water. He shows us where even he, with his snorkled Land Cruiser, got turned around. The good thing, he says, was that by the next morning, the road was driveable again. He says it is not the rain that is the worse part of a cyclone but the wind. The rain water will run off to the ocean, but the wind will destroy houses and buildings.

It is raining hard in some areas as we circumnavigate the island and the wind blows hard. I look down roads that lead inland and they are fully immersed in muddy water. The small creeks running under bridges that we cross are running very high and swift, some nearing the bottom edge of the bridges. There are men standing on the bridges watching for dangerous tree branches so they can move them before a log jam occurs. 

We make the 100 km journey in under 3 hours, the traffic being high due to everyone heading home in preparation of this next storm. We are welcomed by the (slightly relieved, I think) manager of the resort. He warns us the storm is picking up strength and that we will have to make a call tomorrow morning as to whether we go diving.

Voli Voli resort

Our home for the next week

Stepping out of the car at the Volivoli it is again coming down in buckets. We step inside the lobby and are supplied with an umbrella so we can stay dry while getting to the dining room. In the short time it takes to eat lunch the rain has subsided and the wind is calm. I spoke of how smooth travel had gone up to today and today a lug nut fell off one of the wheels. We still progress towards our goal but we need to stop at a service station so the wheel does not leave us completely. Debbie calculated we have 13 flying legs this trip and if this is the worst glitch we encounter it should be an outstanding trip.

Voli Voli resort

View from our veranda

We unpack, organize our very nice ocean view bungalow, enjoy a tasty supper while watching the alternating rain and wind gusts, and then struggle to keep our eyes open. We crash at 8:30. Lights out.

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Mur’s First Impression of Waikiki

This is the place. The place most people consider the ideal holiday destination. And, most of the traveling public are here. There seem to be a lot of different types of tourists here. They are obvious by what they wear, how they are reacting to their surroundings, how big their eyes are.          .

Some folks have been here dozens of times. It may be in fact the ONLY place they have ever taken a vacation. They have seen the place grow and change for the last 20 years. It changes relatively slowly so unless they search their memory from the first time they were here they might not be conscious of the different surroundings.

There are people that have always dreamed of the prefect vacation and that would be in Hawaii and where more iconic than Waikiki.  There was a fellow on the plane yesterday coming to Waikiki to celebrate his 50th birthday. From their level of excitement I don’t think they had ever set foot out of TO. For the most part this group of holidayers wander around completely overwhelmed by what is going on around them.

Young people are here to make the ‘scene’, account for another hefty section of the vacationers. I’m not a nightlife person any more so I can’t say for certain but wandering around today there seems to be sufficient number of bars to keep all that are here occupied until early morning.

It is Saturday and the waterfront has a goodly number of locals taking advantage of a day off to enjoy one of the main reasons for living on the island, the ocean. Several of the public picnic tables were occupied by 8am and the BBQ’s  were being fired up ready for the crowd to arrive for lunch.

It seems to be an easy place to bring kids. There were a lot of kids on the plane yesterday and the beaches and promanade are crawling with families with young children. The water here is not too rough and even though kids still require minding it is not like some places where a single wave could scoop up a child and wash them out to sea. There are plenty of ice cream shops placed just far enough apart you could make it most of the way along the ‘boardwalk’ by coaxing the kids from shop to shop.

What all this makes for is a highrise jungle the length of the beach. There are few building less than 20 stories but not many. The streets don’t seem to be too crowded but the sidewalks are overflowing. Not like, say, Hong Kong where it is hard to find 6 square inches of space to walk on, everyone there walks with purpose and it is quite organized. Here the walkers are in a vaction haze, there is little convention, sometimes you pass on the right, sometimes on the left, sometimes you have to move over, other times the folks coming towards us make the adjustment. There is an abundance of places to eat, none of them cheap. People are here on vacation and they have to eat so the prices reflect that fact.

It’s not really my kind of place to travel to but it is not the worst place I have ever been either. It is good place to stop mid Pacific to break up the flight to the Southern Hemisphere. We have just over 24 hours here. We had an alright sleep last night even though it was off our body rhythm. This morning we walked along the entire length of the beach and then had a good swim in the ocean parallel to the beach where the local triathalons are held. And to keep our minds occupied while swimming the local government provides saltwater fish to watch. Saw several humuhumunukunukuapua’a, Hawaii’s state fish, a spotted box fish, a few needle fish, and the highlight, a very calm, cool and collected turtle swimming about 2 feet underneath us.

Easy place to have a holiday. Everything a person could need while taking a break from the day to day at home. Just not much of departure from what our western world has to offer so maybe not so much from which one can add to their worldly knowledge.

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And We’re Off

Today we round the first corner. Everything goes smooth.

Yesterday when I tried to check in on line there was a question. ‘Are you traveling with any of the dangerous goods listed?’ Listed is lithium batteries. I, trying to be legit, answered yes. There is not a person alive who does not have lithium batteries these days. This of course, if everyone reads the message and answers honestly, preempts any possibility of checking in early because as soon as one answers, yes, a screen comes up and says you have to check in at the desk, throwing things back in time and making for the possibility of horrendous line ups at the airline desk.

We dutifully show up at the desk as prescribed. Weird, we are the first and only people in line. I ask the lady about the lithium battery thing and she says ‘Oh, just answer No to that question. It is for folks that don’t know that lithium batteries can only be in a carry on and for people that don’t understand the difference between a computer battery and a construction tool battery.’ I’m a bit puzzled as it was a phone battery that caused a fire on a plane a few weeks ago. BUT from now on we are not carrying any dangerous goods as listed.

Security, no line; plane, on time; US security, zip; US customs, super guy; plane, as noted on the boarding pass; taxi, there and waiting for as ordered; hotel, all in order.

We sit on the 14th floor of the Ramada Plaza in Waikiki waiting for the sun to come up.

 

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Almost Gone!

We let out our held breath on Tuesday afternoon when our duffel bag arrived. It gets unpacked from its box and then packed up with all our dive gear and travel “stuff”. We get everything into the duffel and the one wheeled suitcase, that we will be checking. We are right on the weight limits, so we may be holding our breath again when we check into Fiji Airways for our domestic flight to Kadavu Island.

havecarryonwilltravel.com

Yesterday there was an article in our local newspaper about a cyclone hitting Fiji. Floods! Deaths! Washed out roads! Flooded cities! Oh my!

We know that sometimes the news doesn’t tell the whole picture, and maybe the news gets sensationalized. We decide to email our resort contact to see if the resort is operational and whether we can still get to it.

An email arrives today saying that it is 100% operational and it was only a “big blow” of a storm. They did not dive for one day and at that moment, the guests were enjoying supper on the veranda. The divers that day said that the visibility was low, but they saw so many seahorses they lost count. I think we will be okay.

We are packed and only the last minute items need to be done before we are off tomorrow. See you on the other side.

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Luggage Woes

A “city” visit with our son and daughter-in-law in Australia is causing us to take a few more clothes on this trip than we would if we were just going on a scuba diving only trip. Add a present or two for the displaced Canadians, and we decide to forego the “carry on only” rule of travel.

As we start to pile dive gear, clothes and all that other stuff that goes with traveling, we discuss luggage and decide to use my somewhat larger carry on wheeled bag and an old bag from Murray’s mom that is a regular sized wheeled suitcase. We do a test pack early on and it looks like these two bags will work. The piles on the floor, unfortunately, get bigger the closer to departure date we get.

Last Thursday, I have an itch to do the final pack. I empty the bags and slowly pack them again, filling in all the small crevices. The bags are pretty much full and there are still items on the floor. I call Murray for a consultation and we decide to weigh the bags. The large bag comes in at 37 lbs, the small one at 30 lbs. We are in trouble.

Why are we in trouble? We are flying on two small airlines, one in Fiji and one in the Solomon Islands. The weight limit for checked bags on the one is 33 lbs and the other is 35 lbs. and we have heard that Fiji Airways is very picky about weight limits. So, we are in trouble.

Okay, now what? I decide to sort the items into “what MUST go” (dive gear) and “what could be left behind” (clothes!) so I expand the mess into the living room. I get most stuff out of the big suitcase and suddenly decide to weigh the suitcase. On our scale, it weighs almost 10 lbs! Yikes! We are using up valuable weigh limit room for the suitcase!!!

Onto the web I go to see if I can find a wheeled suitcase that is lighter than 10 lbs. Nope. They all weigh between 8 and 10 lbs and the cost of a new suitcase for a couple of pounds isn’t good enough. Wait a minute! What about a duffel bag? BINGO!

Now Murray gets into the hunt too. We find a Thule duffel bag that weighs around 4 pounds, which will give us about 6 lbs of weight, and will give us an extra 10 litres of volume. Unfortunately, we cannot find one in Edmonton, so we take a deep breath and order it on Amazon Prime to get it shipped within 2 days which will hopefully be tomorrow, Easter Monday.

We are holding our breath until the duffel arrives.

 

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Waiting…..waiting

We are two weeks away from what I call our grand tour of the South Pacific. Edmonton to Honolulu to Fiji to the Gold Coast, Australia to Solomon Islands back to Fiji then Honolulu then home. Seven and a half weeks away. That will be the longest trip we have been on. I wonder if we will even want to come home?

Our first stop for a night and a half is Oahu. I wrote awhile back about my love affair with this island and am excited to go back after a 9 year hiatus. I want to take Murray for a long walk down the beach, body surfing in the gentle waves, swimming in the lagoon and eating sushi for every meal. I have warned him not to look at all the tall hotels and the thousands of people. Just look out to the water.

Flying to Hawaii in the early 60’s

We had an option of flying to Fiji through Los Angeles or Honolulu. The flight is split more evenly through Honolulu, and if given the choice, wouldn’t you rather spend a night in paradise rather than a big bustling noisy smelly city?

Our flight to Fiji leaves Honolulu at 3:00 am. Who does that? So, after arriving in Honolulu at 9:30 pm, we opted to spend a day walking the beach rather than staying in transit.

I am excited about returning to Waikiki and I hope Murray will share my enthusiasm for my love affair with this paradise.

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David Henry Lodge March 2 to 7, 2018

ARRIVAL

Snowing. And snowing more. The heli should fly but we are waiting to see. There are only 7 of us and it will take 2 flights to get us in.

It’s a go and as we fly up the creek the snow abates. The flight is smooth.

Brian is at the lodge to meet us. Very laid back lodge intro. Most of us have been here before and know the routine.

We unpack, make and eat lunch, skin up and head to the uptrack. Powder Pig Bowl is our destination. All 7 of us are headed for the same place. The uptrack is a bit odd. The fellows at the lodge prior to us had set it before it snowed. It is easier to follow set tracks than to set new ones even if they are not very good ones. One of the backcountry rules is don’t follow set tracks blindly and we find ourselves stomping out our own path on a few occasions. On the way up we are all talking about how supportive the snow pack is. The avalanche danger is ‘considerable’ top to bottom so we are paying close attention to what we are walking on and how the snow is reacting.

David Henry Lodge

On the uptrack across a meadow

Staring us in the face as we approach the top of the climb is an untouched slope with a perfect pitch for us to make the first turns of the week. Debbie, our least experienced skier, should have no trouble negotiating what we chose as our first stop.

David Henry Lodge

J skiing Powder Pig Bowl

The snow is almost boot top deep, silky smooth and easy to ski. Debbie skis the entire slope without stopping and her turns are great. Not a long run but worth every step of the uptrack.

MIDWEEK

Different crew we are bunking with. J & I are early risers, 6am seems to our time. No alarm necessary.  At most of our other lodge experiences he and I sit quietly and read or look at the iPad for an hour and a half without being interrupted by anything. Breakfast is at 8am and the lodge comes alive at 7.55.

David Henry Lodge

With this group, J and I are up at 6 and have at least 15 minutes or peace before G is up hunting down a cup of coffee. B wanders through on his way to the pee hole and J arises because he needs dark to sleep and there are no curtains on the windows of the sleep loft. The quiet mornings we are used to are no longer that way. Debbie and S refuse to compromise their sleep time and get up at 7 or a little after.

The ski day works out quite well. Everyone involved is capable of skiing a variety of slopes. The entire group of 7 participates in the first couple of runs, then a group of 3 peals off knowing their gas reserves are depleted and they head to the cabin. The remaining 4 of us spend the afternoon yo-yoing the same slope and the ones adjacent.

Another change we made this trip is to make supper early and skip the 4pm snack. None of us need the extra calories and eating earlier makes for better sleeping. This lodge lacks a ‘living room’ so in the evenings we sit at the kitchen table and chaw. The stories run rampant. The group is quite knowledgeable so most of the stories are based on some sort of fact. The ones responsible for dinner also do dessert and it shows up after a bit of a repose from dinner. By 9pm the lower floor is clear, everyone is tucked into their sleeping bags and it is quiet. I guess I will have to adjust my quiet time activities to the evening.

David Henry Lodge

THE LAST SKI

We have a big day planned and Debbie leaves with the first group. We are on an adventure. None of us have ever been to Miner’s Bowl and it is high time we ski it. We have a general idea how to reach our destination but as always in the backcountry there is now a sidewalk. We are again following an up track set by folks we have now come to realize as not very talented route finders, so we are leery every step of the way. At one point we abandon the set track completely and branch out on our own. This requires exploration and a few back tracks on our own route. Eventually we make it around the end of the ridge and the vision of the bowl with a abundance of ski-able slopes appears before us.

We find a spot to ski a few turns and skin back up and do it again. We get 4 runs in and it is time to head home. Another big part of any backcountry adventure is finding a route back. Bushwhacking is often part of it. Two of the five adventurers skin back up to do a couple more runs and three head back. J, Debbie and I find a nice slope to start our return journey. From a good start, our descent deteriorates quickly. Any instance of a ski-able glade disappears and the terrain gets steep. OK for J and I but Debbie is not very experienced and we had to do a lot of hill traversing (and wiping out!) to find suitable corridors. Eventually the slope pans out and the skiing gets easier, and after some nice turns in open glades, we reach the lake and the flat terrain that will get us to the cabin.

David Henry Lodge

Skiing is my ultimate reason for heading into the backcountry but in order to find good skiing the occasional ‘adventure’ into uncharted territory is required. Usually a lot of energy is expended in pursuit of new skiing areas. Today was not overly difficult and we did find areas to ski we had not been to before. After getting there once we think we would use a different route to get there next time, it would be safer and require a lot less output. All in all we had a good day and Debbie notched up a big step in the backcountry skiing experience.

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Last Two Days

The last two days have been overcast with light snow falling intermittently. The avalanche risk is still considerable, so we ski the trees.

I am getting better at picking my own routes through the trees but can only plan so far and then have to stop and review the upcoming terrain and plot a new route. I occasionally do my panic thing and end up laying in the white stuff waiting for Murray to ski down to fish me out.

Murray has been searching for the good snow and makes extra runs with a couple of the others after I head back to the lodge. Today they discover some great snow just above the lodge off to one side.

I look at a map that has the number of feet of the climbs up to the tops of the mountains.  Mista Vista is a climb up a 150 story building, Heather Ridge is a 100 story building and Mohawk is a 70 story building. Ouch!  Today I climbed up three quarters of Heather Ridge twice today, no wonder my legs are tired at the end of the day!

We have finished skiing for the week and I think everyone has had a great time. Great food, great skiing and great company. We are already talking about next year.

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