Clothing Review for San Salvador

Here are some final thoughts on the clothing that Murray and I took to San Salvador.

We each took a warm layer (fleece) for the airplane rides and I took a pair of socks. We both wore the fleeces and I wore the socks on the flights down to Nassau. Once in San Salvador, these three items were put in a suitcase and stored in the closet, unused on the island. On the flights home, Murray did not wear his fleece. I wore mine but managed to not put on my socks.

Debbie's travel clothes

Debbie’s travel clothes

We each wore a light weight wool T shirt on the flight down. I thought I would wear it during the day on San Salvador, but did not. So, once I washed these two shirts, they were not used again until we traveled home. We both had two other shirts in our suitcases to wear. If we really needed to go minimalist, I think we each could have left one T shirt at home.

I went with one pair of shorts and one skirt. They both got used alot for evening wear, not just for traveling, while on San Salvador. My usual daytime wear was my sarong, tied into various “fashionable ensembles”.

day wear

Debbie, Murray and B in our usual day time attire

Murray went with two pair of shorts. He tells me that the shorts he wore on the airplane did not get used on San Salvador and only got worn home again. The big question is “Could he actually travel with only one pair of shorts?” I would say no. What if he ruins his one pair of shorts? Then what?

Overall, we packed our clothing almost perfectly and feel we did not take more than what we actually needed.

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Traveling with a Lucky Charm

We travel with a lucky charm on this trip. After all the excitement and issues we have experienced in the last few trips, this one was easy. All due to our lucky charm!

On the way to San Salvador, our flight from Edmonton leaves on time and we make our connection in Toronto to Nassau with ease. The next day, we have a slight delay with our flight from Nassau to San Salvador, but we are not in a hurry and we do make it to our destination. That day flights are being cancelled to the northern Bahamian islands due to the storm that becomes Hurricane Arthur, so we are lucky the storm was not further south.

On the way home, our hopper flight to Nassau leaves on time. The next day, our flight to Toronto actually leaves early and we have lots of time in Toronto to clear customs and catch our flight to Edmonton. This is easy traveling!

Murray and I decide that we should take our lucky charm with us on all our trips. Ready to go, B?

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Homeward Bound

riding rock inn

Riding Rock Inn

In keeping with the Riding Rock’s excellent service, we are shuttled to the airport to check in for our flights and then returned to the hotel to sit in comfort. After insuring the plane is on time we are given another ride to the airport to meet the plane at our intended departure time.

Today the Caribbean airline is on time. I am not sure, but this could be one for the books. I also think there are extenuating circumstances. It is the Bahamas’ birthday and the pilots and everyone else involved, from the gate people to the luggage loaders, are free for the remainder of the day as soon as the flight lands in Nassau. A perfect reason not to run overtime I think.

We arrive in downtown Nassau to a very crowded scene. It is independence day, there are two very large cruise ships docked and the streets are elbow to elbow. Flying in we noticed how big Nassau is. We have only been able to check out a small portion of the city but from what we have seen if I were to come to the Bahamas for a vacation I would not choose Nassau as my final destination. It is way too crowded with a constant traffic jam downtown, the beaches are mediocre at best within Nassau, and I did not see much to hold my interest (unless you enjoy humongous resorts) for more than a couple of days. We only visited one of the out islands but I would have to assume most of the others are similar and would be much more conducive to relaxation than the hustle and bustle of the capital city.

Beaches in Nassau

Beaches in Nassau

Independence day is a holiday for all, but some folks do have to work. Most of the celebrations take place late in the evening the day before. All of the speeches, the parade and the fireworks happen between 9 pm and 1 am on the night of July 09. This, in theory, allows for the people to participate and sleep in on their day off. We should have such ‘out of the box’ type organizers in our country and there may be even more people watch the late night fireworks.

Although the festivities took place last night the locals are out in full force today. Drinking rules seem to be much more relaxed than in Canada. There are many folks sashaying along the beach promenade with bottles in hand.

This morning as we pass the Fish Fry we note a lot of action. A stage is being set up, several food booths are preparing for dinner and there is a dance group practicing. Thinking this is in response to Independence Day we decide we should stop by for a visit this evening and maybe get something to eat. Somewhere in our travels we find that the action around the Fish Fry and the adjacent park is a regular Thursday gig and has little to do with the holiday. We go anyway.

We walk along the beach observing the goings on and continue along the row of restaurants past all the hub bub. We get to the end of the row and the absolute farthest we are going to venture from our hotel and the sky opens up. We are in the middle of a major tropical downpour. The streets and sidewalks are flooded in a matter of minutes. We expect the deluge to last only a few minutes. I have never experienced a lengthy storm in the Caribbean. Before we are soaked we manage to find shelter in bar that is no longer operational. The owner and a couple of other fellows are at the doorway watching the rain and invite us in. We wait for the rain to abate.  We wait, and we wait and we wait. The water on the sidewalks is getting deeper. One of our hosts is very drunk. A half hour goes by watching out the doorway. The drunk is getting a little boring and it is impossible to have a conversation with the other two fellows. I manage to discern that it is the ‘rainy season’ and the storms last at lot longer from July to November than during the non rainy season. The rain shows no sign of stopping so we decide to brave the walk home.

Drenched within 20 M, we wade along the sidewalk in ankle deep water. We trudge the 10 blocks to the hotel walking on the side of the road that is at least 5 cm deep.

Very few others are out from under cover and braving the torrent. Some folks inside their dry cars are laughing at the stupid tourists. Out in this kind of weather? But we are soaked and to walk the rest of the way to the hotel is of little consequence. I hear Debbie and B giggling as we tip toe through the puddles. Rain in the tropics is not cold, in contrast to the rain in the temperate climate we live, and it is like standing in a warm shower, only fully clothed.

We arrive at the hotel and all three of us stand on the entrance mat, drip and create huge puddles beneath our feet. I think we are a bit of comic relief for the staff. I am sure we are quite a sight. After his laughter has slowed, a very nice maintenance guy goes off into a back room to find three towels and his mop so we can get across the lobby without making it too treacherous for the other guests.

In our room we strip off our wet gear and don some dry clothes from our bags. Everything gets wrung out in the tub and each item produces a good stream of water headed toward the drain. We show B how we deal with ‘on the road laundry’ by rolling the wet clothes in a towel and stomping on it to get out the excess moisture. We then set up our laundry line between two chairs strategically placed in front of the air conditioner, turn the AC onto dry and hang what we need tomorrow directly in front of the blower. Our room now resembles a laundromat.

Earlier in the day, after alighting from the cab we take from the airport, Debbie notices she has left her sunhat on the backseat. We had made arrangements for the driver to take us back to the airport the following morning and he passed us his business card in case things change. We are able to get hold of his wife via phone and explain the circumstances. She says she will pass on the message. When the cab driver arrives the following morning, he tell us he had found the hat, had returned to the hotel but did not know our name so he kept it over night and Debbie could now have it back. Great guy!

The service we received from the Riding Rock arranging for us to catch our flight and the taxi drivers efforts to return Debbie’s misplaced hat seems typical of how Bahamians treat their guests. I will use a quote I have used before ” The place is the people”. If you believe this then The Bahamas is worth a visit and even though I do not have much time in my life to make return visits I would definitely consider returning to The Bahamas.

san salvador

 

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The Last Day of Diving

It’s our last day of diving. We try to find all our favourite creatures. We are successful at seeing some, not so successful with others. Still haven’t had a good siting of a hammerhead shark. It will have to wait for another dive trip.

We do see two turtles, which we all just love. They are so graceful as they swim and will not hurry away if we are non threatening.

San Salvador

San Salvador’s water have a particular social feather duster that is a gorgeous mauve colour and I shoot more photos of them trying to get the perfect shot.

Bahamas

We hover below the boat on our last dive not wanting to surface and return to reality. But we do saying ttfn to the fish, creatures and ocean.

We will return.

Bahamas

 

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San Salvador’s Beaches

Saturday is a beach day. The beaches here are amazing. White sand for miles in each direction, same sand 100 metres into the sea, and warm water.

We leave The Riding Rock headed south for Long Bay and our first beach. We ask and find out that the speed limit is ’40’. So we putz along and eventually arrive at the Columbus monument and a most amazing beach. We look at the monuments but they are not unusual enough to keep us from the water. The water is sooooo blue and so clear. We jump in, it is a bit cool after experiencing the water in a wet suit, but after only about literally 2 seconds the water is superb. Bag beach one.

On the road again and 40 seems a bit slow, the road is built for speeds at least a bit faster, we haven’t seen any police vehicles, so I chance it and up the speed to 60. We are in search of Grotto Beach. It is off the main road and we venture into a ‘subdivision’ mostly unmarked of course and it takes a while to locate the beach. We find two adjacent beaches, I’m not sure they have names, but both are quite nice and we swim off the tamer sister beach and bag beach 2. We try one last time to find Grotto and bingo. It is on a small side road with a gazebo and a parking area for five or six cars. Debbie runs carefree into the water while B and I gaze across the open water.

grotto beach

Grotto Beach

Heading to the east side I realize that ’40’ is mph not kph. 60 kph is now the speed of choice and the distance goes by much quicker. We are looking for Snow Bay. After a short side trip, headed toward Guanahani Resort we see it in the distance, decide we are not that interested in the resort, turn around and later find we were on the way to Snow Bay but just gave up too early.

San Salvador

East Beach

We continue on our way heading towards a settlement called United States where we will search out East Beach. A short drive down a side road and the Atlantic Ocean is before us. We can’t quite see Africa but the view is great. The waves are bigger on this side but the water is no less clear. As we enter we all comment on the fact that the water is much warmer on the open ocean side. We thought this odd but what is, is. The sand here is absolutely silky. So soft we all mention it.

Around the next corner is the only lighthouse on the island. It is open and you can climb the eighty stairs and view the entire island. The views over the land and out into multicoloured waters is well worth the vertigo of climbing a set of stairs straight up.

San Salvador

The Lighthouse

Next. Back to the west side. I cannot remember the name of the beach on the north west section of the island. After three spectacular beaches this one is a bit ordinary but only by Caribbean standards. Again, as it had been all day, there are only three people on the beach, us.

The last stop is Bonefish Beach. Club Med occupies a small portion of the beach but only about a tenth. That end of the beach is still public so if you don’t mind crowds you can saunter over, but from what I understand you cannot go beyond the beach without a ‘wristband’ or you will be escorted from the property. Mighty neighbourly of them. The beach is long and the sand extends far into water making it a great place to laze about with an occasional dip into the clear blue.

We like to get a look at the places we visit. Today we bag five beaches. Every beach on the island is worth a visit.

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New Friendships

San salvadorThe first day we dive we are joined by two “older” ladies from New York. They have been coming here for many years. Both are close to retirement and have started building a house on the island so they can spend the NY winters in the warmer climes of San Salvador. Super nice ladies, both having a good time diving as they can and missing a dive when they need. Guanahani is their dive centre of choice. They really enjoy the diving here and this is the place they want to settle. B tells Debbie she hopes we will be able to dive when we reach their age. I too am impressed with their moxie.

San salvador

That same day there are two boat bums (I do not know the proper term but I extrapolated from ski bum) on board. C is an Aussie and from our conversation she has traveled extensively. Z is an Alaskan by birth and for a young guy has lived a goodly number of places but at the moment is living on a boat in Florida. They have been travelling together for five months in and around the Bahamas and are nearing the end of their trip. Both are good divers for their years. They had heard San Salvador was the place to dive so they headed this way and decided to splurge. Later, during the Fourth of July celebration at the Riding Rock we have a chance to chat with C and Z for a good portion of the evening. Our conversation met on the common ground of travel and diving. We end by exchanging emails and I will for sure keep in contact. Even though our ages vary greatly I think if fate were to have our paths cross, it would be quite enjoyable to spend some time in each other’s company.

Day two found us diving with our two NY lady friends and a couple Canuks. M and C are from Vancouver, thirty-five/fourtyish, and seem to live a very enviable life. M is a French girl from Paris. She has an executive type job with a firm in the business of modernizing airports around the world. Her job takes her to places like San Salvador and C tags along. This time they took a few days vacation, came to San Salvador to have a look see and do some diving. We also found common ground in travelling but these two have an interest in visiting galleries in places like Paris. Again we exchanged emails and I will again keep in touch with the hope our paths will again cross.

Bahamas

We don’t always make plans to keep in contact with people we meet on our travels but this time we have crossed paths with several folks of similar thought.

We have made friends on a trip many years ago and we continue to meet up with them every couple of years and spend a week diving. It’s great fun to join up and every trip our friendship expands on common interests.

Travelling provides us with an opportunity of long distance friendships. It is said the world is getting smaller and we are doing our part to make that happen.

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A Comedy of Errors

anemone

Anemone

First dive of the day. We have descended below the boat. B swims over to me and shows me her empty wrist. No dive computer. No problem, we will share mine. I make pantomime motions indicating that we will both use mine. We carry on.

We follow our dive master to a canyon,  descend through the tall walls watching for interesting creatures. Once on the bottom, at about 110 feet, we point ourselves upward and swim to the top of the wall again.

Porcupine fish

Porcupine Fish

After a short time, our dive master motions to me that she is going to the surface to look for the boat. Oops….slightly misplaced. She locates it and comes back down.

We start to swim in the direction of the boat. Murray indicates he is getting low on air so he ascends to do his safety stop. B and I remain lower and under him. Murray surfaces well short of the boat as his air is low. B and I do our safety stop as we travel below Murray who is leading us to the boat. After a good swim we climb aboard the boat.

While chatting about the dive, Murray realizes he has my dive computer on and I have his on.

Forgotten and mixed up dive computers make for a comedy of errors on our first dive.

Spotted moray

Spotted Moray

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The Day of the Groupers

We swim with the resident groupers today.

Grouper

Two are named Tom and Jerry, with Jerry being the more friendly. Our dive master tells us they like to be petted. I timidly stroke one, not sure if it is Tom or Jerry, and he is smooth. He swims with me for a long way, just like a dive buddy.
Grouper

As we swim back close to the sand bottom, we stop at a monument commemorating Columbus’ landing on the island. Our friendly groupers, follow us there and also investigate it.

Columbus monument

It was a great day with our friends the groupers!

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The Aquarium

We enter the aquarium today.

Kersplash! A giant stride off the back of the boat brings us into the aquarium. We descend over sand, where the boat is tied up, make our way over to the wall and drop over the wall. The wall goes down forever, but we only descend to about 80 feet.

Very quickly we meet the resident reef sharks. Our dive master says they are like dogs, looking to be fed the lion fish that are speared. They can smell them and have learned that they can find the lion fish on the end of a spear. We are followed and escorted by 3 or 4.

Reef shark

Reef Shark

We meet critters we are familiar with and some we are not. We are always excited when we discover a new fish or creature. We see a Flying Gurnard on the sand bottom and the dive master disturbs it so it will open its pectoral fins as it swims away.

Flying gurnard

Flying Gurnard

We dive and snack and dive and lunch and dive again. This is life in the aquarium.

image

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Nassau, Bahamas

After enduring the “Red Eye” to Toronto and the flight to The Bahamas, Murray, B and I arrive safely in Nassau. Our first impressions of the Bahamas are positive.

Nassau

Statue of Columbus

The local people are super friendly. They are willing to say Hello as we pass them on the street.  Clerks will kibitz with Murray. The wait staff we have are very helpful and serve us with a smile or laugh.

The touts are not too pushy. A couple of un-official tour guides try to pick up some business from us and when Murray said we were OK by ourselves, they were not happy but they backed off.

There is affluence here. Nicely dressed locals. Fancy cars.

Traffic congestion in Nassau is becoming an issue. Some of the streets had long lines of vehicles throughout the day. The traffic moved, but in the near future the island administrators will find it will grind to a halt due to the numbers of vehicles. Horns talk here, but not the cacophony of SE Asia. Watch out, I’m going by. Thank you! It’s my turn. I’m coming around the corner.

Nassau is a cash society. Except for our hotel bill, we have paid cash for meals, water, drinks, taxi and snacks.

Tomorrow we take a hopper fight over to San Salvador where we will spend 10 days scuba diving and exploring the island. We hope our impressions of that island will match the ones we have of Nassau’s island.

 

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