Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

The tourist goal for today is Mesa Verde National Park. Inside the park are the cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Pueblo people. We take a tour of the Cliff Palace, which was home to an estimated 90 people. They farmed on top of the Mesa and lived under the cliff in quite a substantial group of dwellings.

Cliff Palace

Cliff Palace

The ranger was quite informative and humorous, drawing on current lifestyle examples to explain the way of life back around 1200 AD when the pueblo peoples lived in the area. These dwellings look very much like the condos you might find in any west coast city. Smallish abodes stacked this way and that, they even have lofts which I guess served as sleeping quarters.

Cliff Palace

Cliff Palace

Everyone seemed to be astonished that these folk could build these houses with square corners, fine workmanship and mortar, but one must remember the Greeks and Romans were building great structures long before that time.

Balcony House

Balcony House

Now, don’t get me wrong, we both thoroughly enjoyed the tour and seeing the various dwellings. The peoples that lived here and the city they lived in are indeed fantastic. There is a lot to be impressed by and a lot to learn, like; why did they abandon such a beautiful place? The question is, even if we figure out the reason, are we prepared to listen to the past and maybe avoid the same fate the befell their civilization?

It’s funny but I always look at this type of artifact from an engineering viewpoint. In the museum, the displays that intrigue me are the ones that show how the houses etc were constructed. I usually cruise past the pottery and clothing.

Murray and I were talking on the drive from Mesa Verde towards Taos, New Mexico about how we find traveling in the US different than elsewhere we have been. The one thing that disturbs me is the gun thing. You know how when you enter a building, like a visitor centre, there are stickers at the entrance showing no smoking, no dogs.  Here there are often stickers that say NO FIREARMS!! WTF!! (I just thought the signs were funny. M) I do not like the fact that people could be carry guns in stores, at gas stations, in restaurants. “I don’t like the way you drive…..BLAM!” Okay, now I am ranting. Anyway, the gun thing makes me just a little…..touchy.

Update on the speed limit thing. It was quite easy to follow the Colorado system of speed. It seemed to match Alberta’s closely. This size road in such a condition and the speed is thus. It was relatively easy to know what the limit was even if we had not seen a sign. Then we crossed into New Mexico. The speed immediately dropped 15 mph. Back to searching for signs and the signs are few.

Rainbows on our drive to Taos!

Rainbows on our drive to Taos!

Mesa Verde is how the day starts. The rest of the day traverses another ecosystem and much different terrain. We are now in the foot hills, the mountains are near but we are not and will not go above the treeline but we are in an evergreen forest and the road takes us over this hill and that, never flat and rarely straight. We do feel quite at home in this environment. We arrive in Taos, it is chilly and there is winter in the air.

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On the Road Again

We cover many miles again today. Kayenta, Arizona to Cortez, Colorado with a dip into Utah.

The speed limits in Arizona and Utah are odd, or maybe we just haven’t figured them out yet. They vary between 40 mph and 65 mph sometimes with no logic that we can discern. Some roads we think we should be going fast on, are designated slow and vice versa. Since we are pretty much driving the speed limit, when we know what it is, we are just hoping we can talk our way out of a ticket if we get caught accidentally doing the wrong speed on the wrong road.

image noumena valley Navajo tribal park

Monument Valley

First tourist stop is the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. A 17 mile drive takes us around towering giant rock outcroppings. The colours in the morning light range from brilliant reds to dark blues. Erosion creates these structures that have inspired artists, builders and dreamers.

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Monument Valley

The plant life in this part of the US is quite different than in Alberta. The plants here have to survive desert conditions, so many of them are stunted in size.

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Cacti, ponderosa pines, Mormon tea, junipers and many we do not know the names of.

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Next stop is Hovenweep National Monument. It is a 2 mile walking trail trough the ruins of a community from over 700 years ago. They were ancestral Pueblo people who began to cultivate corn and other crops so adopted a stationary lifestyle, rather than nomadic one. The construction of the buildings show, to us, an advanced nature.

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Hovenweep National Monument ruins

The construction and siting is what intrigues. The buildings look like miniature houses of today that appear to be multistory with many different shapes. Curved walls on the entry side of the building with flat walls on the ‘view’ side. The dwellings are sited right on the edge along a valley. I’m guessing it had to do with ventilation or something but the siting would be outstanding in terms of today’s criteria, people would pay big money for the views and privacy afforded by building on the edge of a coulee.

Since we left Phoenix we have seen the terrain, the flora, the landscape, the architecture all change and just when we get a feel for our surroundings it changes again. I’m guessing again but I think altitude is the main reason for this change. Phoenix is smack dab in the middle of the desert, complete with 20′ high cacti and very scrubby shrubs. Traveling north towards the Grand Canyon the vegetation changes to Ponderosa Pine and the air is slightly cooler.

On the way to the Grand Canyon

On the way to the Grand Canyon

At the rim of the canyon (7000 ft) the vegetation is not dense but there are enough trees to make a proper forest. Shortly after leaving the G.C. National Park, to the east we encounter a slightly different desert. No blowing sand like one might envision the Sahara, and no tall cacti like around Phoenix but very low scrub and what is really miles and miles of very little. The terrain is strange to us. The top of the mesas are flat like our prairies but their vastness is interrupted by outcroppings of red rock.

Eastern Arizona

Eastern Arizona

Mountains that have not eroded and have remained standing proud for the past many centuries. As we travel we suddenly plunge down (or up) very steep inclines into the plains between the mesas or to the top of the next mesa. This type of landscape continues for many, many miles. Then we cross the Utah/Colorado border and it is as if we are transported back to Southern Alberta. The scrub vegetation has been replaced by fields of wheat and other grains. There are fields of corn. All this is made possible because of irrigation, again just like S. Alberta. We have another long day on the road tomorrow crossing into yet another state, New Mexico, it will be interesting to see what that brings.

Being from North America traveling big distances to get any where is a very familiar concept. When in Phoenix, before we started our road trip, we were talking to couple of ladies from Belgium.  The one thing they were completely astonished at was the wide open spaces with not much humanity. In most places in the world it is difficult to move very far in any direction without running into someone. Here we just get in the  car and drive. Three, four, five hours is not very long if one wants to get anywhere in Canada or the US. Our trip to this part of the States will last 10 days. We’ll cover over 1000 miles and we are not traveling every day. Paulo Soleri should be rolling over in his grave.

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Grand Canyon

We didn’t mention Sedona yesterday as it surely was not the high point in our day. Arcosanti was the highlight, definitely. Besides the majestic red mountains surrounding Sedona, the town was Banff on a very very busy summer day. Too many people, too much traffic and too many shops.

Sedona

Sedona

Let’s get onto today, because it truly was exciting…..

We gave each other this year’s Christmas presents today and they were a helicopter tour of the Grand Canyon. We had thought of this idea yesterday, set a price limit, and one of the tour companies (Papillon Helicopter Tours) that we stopped at came in right at our budget number. And they had room on a flight only an hours wait away.

We fly over trees of the Kaibab National Forest and then drop over the south rim of the canyon. It is spectacular! The initial panoramic view made me hold my breath. The striations of the rock formations are brilliant and I now know where the Hopis get their colour palettes.

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The Colorado River is a brown ribbon about a mile below us. The river is about 300 to 400 yards wide. That is 8 lengths in the pool we swim in! WOW! The river is bordered by lush greenery, the only bright green in the canyon.

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The bottom and lower sides of the canyon are rocky and inhospitable with touches of sage coloured green. It is a wonder that any animal life survives down there.

After we land, Murray and I agree that this was a marvelous Christmas present. This is a great way to view the canyon without hiking down into it or riding a raft down the river.

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We spend the next few hours walking the rim of the canyon with the myriad of tourists that visit every day. Driving east we stop at a few of the points of interest, seeing a different view of the canyon each time. The canyon is indeed one of the natural wonders on the planet.

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Arcosanti

The reason we are in Arizona is to see Arcosanti. It is not a big place and in reality it is not worth more than a couple of hours to visit but I have been interested in seeing it for a very long time. I first learned of this ‘urban experiment’ 35ish years ago while at UBC studying architecture. An architect with a vision saw that the way things in our western world were headed was a long road to disaster. Our cities take far too much from the balance of nature and do not return nearly enough to maintain that balance. He surmised a big part of the problem is the automobile. He wanted to build a city that would be carless and address a whole slew of the other things ‘wrong’ with our cities of then and still very much wrong today.

Arcosanti

Ceramic windbell workshop

In the early 1970s Paolo Soleri was busy drawing cities and planning how they would function. He was busy test building bits and piece of his vision on his 5 acres of land north of Phoenix, Arizona. The opportunity arose for the purchase of some property north of Phoenix that could provide the backdrop for a full scale model city to be constructed. This is when I learned of his work and was fascinated by an attempt to build a city from scratch. Hopefully this city would not reflect the shortcomings of the cities we now live in and would provide us with a usable alternate for the future.

Arcosanti

Arches at the central square

My impression of Arcosanti in its present state is that it is a bit quirky. The forms are familiar, just because I have followed it on and off for the 35 years it has been under construction. The shapes all make sense from a design point of view but, like the concept itself, are unusual in the world as we know it. The site itself is of course a work in progress, a construction site; that said it is very messy. I don’t know if the unfinished state is the cause the untidiness or if it is the nature of a work/live environment. Things in the communal areas are in need of a good cleaning and minor repairs such as the rehanging of drapery dislodged from the curtain rod. Even though it is a communal environment someone or indeed everyone needs to take responsibility for the shared spaces. The shared spaces are an integral part of how Arcosanti is intended to function. I think it is a remnant of our present way of life and residents future and present have to reprogram themselves to meet the requirements of living in an arcology.

Arcosanti

Windbells

People do live and work there now. The residents are working toward the completion of their city in one way or another. Some folks work in the ‘tourist’ industry, leading tours, working in the café, selling goods in the gift shop. Some make windbells, designed by Soleri and the first source of income towards the start of construction of his vision. Some are construction workers. The city has begun to take shape but it is very long way from reality.

Arcosanti

Arcosanti today

Could I live in a place like that? Not sure. I think I would be OK living there for a short period of time, say 6 weeks, as it is in its present state. Right now it is a very small village. I lived in Whistler, BC many years ago when it was very small and being from the city I was not use to the fact the every person in the village knew more about my life than I did. No secrets, NONE. I think that if the city ever is completed and the planned 5,000 people become resident I think the place would be quite a nice place to live in. Even if several of these small cities are built adjacent to one another there would be substantially less impact on the world than what is now the status quo.

It is only recently in my home city, Edmonton, the planners have been able to overcome their tunnel vision and realize we cannot keep expanding laterally even though our city is built on a never ending plane of flat. The infrastructure required to maintain such a model is crippling. It will soon not be possible to service the citizens as they should expect from an affluent society such as ours.

I’m glad I got a chance to see Arcosanti and hope that some of the things learned from this experiment are absorbed by our system in the very near future. Cities as we know them are doomed and it would be good to start revising our future soon.

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Taliesen West and Cosanti

We do the architectural tour of Phoenix today. Our day starts at Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright’s home and “architectural laboratory”. We drive up the road to the site, noticing how the buildings and grounds blend in with the surroundings. The complex sits part way up the slope towards the McDowell Mountains.

Taliesin West

Taliesin West

Our tour is led by Jim, a very knowledgeable ex history professor who volunteers to give folks like us an insight into Frank Lloyd Wright. As we sit in the famous living room, it is just like the photographs that we have seen in magazines. The chairs and fabrics are unchanged. The room is long and would have accommodated many people in small groups discussing world topics.

Jim talks about “Mr. Wright” and his idea of organic, which in the 1920’s would have been an outrageous concept. Organic to Wright meant to work with the environment, to blend into the natural surroundings. Although he accomplished this, we notice that he also used a grid and square corners and shapes. His windows framed views of the desert and mountains. Water fountains graced the gardens with their tinkling sounds and freshness.

Taliesin West

Taliesin West

Next stop, Cosanti. The home and handcrafted bell workshop of Paolo Soleri. Mr. Soleri was an Architect, craftsman and philosopher who founded Arcosanti in 1970. We will be visiting Arcosanti tomorrow as it is located 65 miles north of Phoenix.

Cosanti

Cosanti

We notice immediately that Soleri’s concept of organic is much different than Wright’s. Soleri’s mimics nature using forms that are rounded, domed, flowing. More towards the modern idea of what organic might be.

Pouring molten copper to create windchimes

Pouring molten copper to create windbells

After our stop at Cosanti, we are both looking forward to visiting Arcosanti to see what it is all about and get a hint of Soleri’s vision.

Then it is off to visit the Arizona Biltmore Hotel, designed by Wright. The buildings and grounds are immaculate and highlight Wright’s designs in the furniture, carpets, gardens, lighting and wall features. We wander the grounds and enjoy the ambiance.

Arizona Biltmore

Arizona Biltmore

We also make a quick stop at the Gammage Memorial Auditorium, said to be Frank Lloyd Wright’s last public commission. To me it looks like a huge wedding cake with sculpted icing sides.

Gammage Memorial Auditorium

Gammage Memorial Auditorium

Our travels to these architectural spots has us navigating throughout Phoenix, Tempe and Scottsdale. We are surprised at how easy it is. Although the map looks quite intimidating, the distances are traversed quickly and smoothly.

Tomorrow we head out of Phoenix, to Arcosanti and north to Sedona. We will combine man made and natural architecture.

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We are off to Phoenix, Arizona

Short and sweet. Get on the plane, get off the plane. Get on the shuttle, get off the shuttle. Check into the hotel.

Traveling in North America is a breeze. Everything is in English, except for a few cursory French words at the federal government controlled security section. All the instructions are easy to understand and all the signs are readable.

Hi-lite was the Super Shuttle, a door to door shuttle service, sort of like a shared cab. We meet the contact person at the shuttle stop just outside the exit doors. He coordinates our location with the next van going in our direction, it arrives, we toss our stuff in the back and zoom….we are transported to the hotel. It is less expensive than cab fare but no less effective, more expensive than the local bus but much easier to figure out and much less travel time. The folks employed by the Super Shuttle are friendly and super helpful. They have the customer service idea down.

We arrive in Phoenix in the dark. What we can see looks much the same as any city but there are shadows. Shadows of very tall pointed hills. Odd things and the ‘desert’ landscape is visible in the darkness at the side of the highway. It is different to us and even the little we see will be worth exploring.

Tomorrow we get to drive in a city of 7 million. Probably won’t be so short and sweet.

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Phoenix, Arizona – Car Rental Options

I have been truly negligent in keeping up my end of the blog, so here it goes.

Arizona, our next destination. We had thought to go in September when we had a large stretch of time available. We intended to drive and see some territory neither of us have visited but that option evaporated and we are now flying. It is a minor change in some ways but it does require preparation not necessary had we driven. Renting a car, for instance.

We don’t rent many cars so it is time to learn something new. Big lesson; DON’T rent a car from an airport location. I spend the better part of week checking out what it would cost to rent a car for 10 days in Arizona. The logical place to pick up the car would be at the Phoenix airport where we are going to land. It would also be convenient to drop it off there since that is where our plane leaves from. I look at all the possibilities and they seem, at least to me, to be quite expense but also something did not sit right. First off, car rental prices change like airfares. Also, like airfares, there does not seem to any rhyme or reason to the change in costs. Really is it worth the time to have some employee or even a computer figuring out which particular model of car is worth how much at this or that instance in time. Come on! it’s a car!

The cost to rent a compact car from the airport location today, October 13,2014, is (I’ll work in Canadian funds where I can) $449.37 plus $246.46 in taxes and surcharges to total $695.84. Like I said, seems a little excessive. There is a discount to ‘pay now’ on the website. It amounts to about 10%. $404.44 plus $232.21 in taxes totaling $636.65. These taxes are “concession recovery, facility maintenance, ENERGY RECOVERY FEE (caps are used on the website price breakdown???), county surcharge, customer facility, and taxes”. Except for the taxes, all of the charges are airport specific and account for a significant portion of what the car is being tendered for.

Simply by using a little bit of lateral thinking I am able to save a large percentage by renting from a location not on airport property . What if I rent the car from a Scottsdale location? Bingo. The cost drops over $300, less that 50% of what I was originally quoted. If I want to book the car it will cost $299.92 plus $56.22 in taxes equaling $356.15, but by paying immediately the cost drops to $269.93 + $51.37 = $321.30. (As I mentioned the prices change and I actually paid $293.62 a couple of days ago.) These savings are a bit greater due to the fact that we do not really need a car on the evening we arrive and we save one day’s rental by not booking the car until the next morning. Just by the by, the car rental agency is directly across the street from our hotel but some agencies will pick you up from the hotel on the day you rent and drop you off after you return the car.

We now have another problem. How to get to the hotel on the night we arrive and how to return to the airport on the day we are to leave. Before I pay for the car rental I check out the cost of a cab ride with the hotel front desk. The fellow tells me it is around $50 US ($56 Cad). So even with the expense of a taxi we save over $200 on the cost of renting a car from the airport and I will have the luxury of being chauffeured to my hotel. Upon further investigation I found the SuperShuttle which provides airport to hotel door service for the two of us costing $84 US ($94.22 Cad) return fare.

By not renting at the airport we save over $200 about 1/3 of the cost of renting a car.
I am beginning to dislike airports as much as I generally dislike airlines. They seem be in business solely for the purpose of making money. Unfortunately, both are missing the same point. They are in the customer service industry and by taking care of the customer, the bottom line will take care of itself. A leap of faith is required to adopt this idea and make it a company cornerstone but as best as I can make, neither the airports or the airlines are willing to take that leap and because they have a market with little or no choice they chose the ‘safe’ route and dictate cost and quality of service to their users.

Airports that charge stupid high fees to the car rental companies and have them pass the cost onto the potential customers caused me to look for alternatives. I will do my best to spread the word. It may only cost airports a few nickels but it is a few nickels they could have had. More important they will loose customers. Customers that could have been loyal customers. Ones that would tout the benefits of using airport services and how valuable they are to travelers rather than spew off blogging about how they are self centered, egocentric, bloated organizations.

PS. The car rental companies should not get off scott free either. You will note that the base cost of the car from the Scottsdale location is lower than the cost of the car from the airport. An instance of supply and demand I am sure but supply and demand to a rental company is sort of a mute point as they shuffle cars around from site to site to meet demand.

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Tour of Alberta and World Triathlon Grand Final Photos

I have loaded photos from the World Triathlon Grand Final which was held in Edmonton from August 26 to September 1, 2014. We have photos of both the Women’s and Men’s Elite races.

Men's Elite Race of the World Triathlon Grand Final

Elite Men’s Race of the World Triathlon Grand Final

There are also photos of the Tour of Alberta that traveled around the province from September 2 to September 7, 2014.

Tour of Alberta Stage 3 Finish at Namao

Tour of Alberta Stage 3 Finish Circuit at Namao

The photos are posted under “Photos” in the main menu bar and are in the “Western Canada” Album. The Women’s race is first, followed by the Men’s race and then the Tour of Alberta.

Once the photos of the album have loaded, scroll down towards the bottom and locate the photos from this summer. Click on the first photo of the grouping and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right.

Enjoy!

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San Salvador Photos

Our San Salvador photos are finally in the blog. We had a little hiccup with the Photo section and I have had to reconstruct it. Some cosmetic and photo quality work still needs to be done, but the photos are back in place. WHO HOO!

To view the San Salvador photos:

  • Hover over “Photos” on the main menu bar
  • When the drop down menu appears, find San Salvador and click on it
  • Click on the first photo to get a larger “slide show” type view.
  • Use the right arrow to scroll through the pics.
  • Enjoy!

Bahamas

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Tour of Alberta 2014 Edmonton

Today is the big Edmonton circuit for the Tour of Alberta. Two times in and out of our river valley. 11 laps of an 11 km route. We are pumped. Regardless of the light rain we expect the turnout here will be better than elsewhere in the province.

The climb up Bellamy Hill

The climb up Bellamy Hill

We are not disappointed. The people are out in droves, the race is exciting, and the Bellamy Hill climb is tough. Three of those climbs are for King of the Mountain points. The race for the KOM jersey is fought by Simon Yates (Orica-Greenedge) and Robin Carpenter (Hincapie Sportswear Development Team). Yates beats out Carpenter eventually winning the Polka Dot Jersey.

Simon Yates

Simon Yates

We wander the course from Bellamy Hill to 107 St where the racers cross twice in a lap where we meet up with swim buddies and tri buddies and cycling buddies. The Edmonton athletes are out to support this great race.

The peloton rushing by

The peloton rushing by

From 107 St we scurry towards the finish line area catching a glimpse of the racers on lap 9. At the finish we join the masses along the orange fences and cheer the racers as they complete their last two laps. It is always amazing to see how fast they rush past. There is definitely excitement in the air with everyone ringing their bells, clapping their clappers and cheering loudly.

The finish is a mad sprint of a whittled down pack of 30. Daryl Impey wins the stage and gathers a time bonus enough to push Tom Dumoulin out of the number one spot of the GC.

Daryl Impey wins the stage and the GC

Daryl Impey wins the stage and the race

We stop and chat with Thomas, the Hincapie Team Manager (we think), who we chatted with in the Tim Horton’s on the way to Lethbridge. I ask him how the team did and he says they did well but the riders don’t have the depth of the European team riders. But, after all they are a development team and this is what they are all about. Nice fellow. Their season is over but he says they will be back next year.

Murray runs into Oran one last time and J, Oran’s navigator, and we look forward to seeing them again next year.

It has been a great Tour of Alberta. It will feel odd not getting up tomorrow and driving to a spot on some highway to watch a group of spandex clad cyclists swoosh by. Until next year.

The race is over

The race is over for another year

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