Cyclocross All Day

Last night we sat and debated whether we should follow the highway with no bike lane or if we should follow the overland path. Even though the path through the hinterland is longer, we choose it. We definitely chose the right path. It winds back and forth, up and down through the cottage country of Denmark. The entire route is on the land side of the massive dunes created by the stormy North Sea.

Murray in the North Sea

Murray in the North Sea

Like yesterday these shorter routes are allowing us to stop and see the sites. Today at two different locations we stop, prop our bikes beside a fence in parking area, scale the sand dune and head out onto the beach. I have to a least dabble in the North Sea. It is very cold, maybe not as cold as I imagined but cold none the less. I don’t see anyone in the water. just a dog frolicking in the shallows.

Debbie almost in the North Sea

Debbie almost in the North Sea

The route today was 99% gravel. Not just one type of gravel. The best riding is on a very fine gravel, almost sand like and compacted to near the same density as asphalt. There are the compact gravel roads, areas where the cars are allowed to travel, this is not too bad. It gets worse where they have added gravel as a maintenance measure. This is both on the roads and on the bike paths, we skitter and slide in these areas. The worst is the sand, with weighted, skinny tire bikes we bog down and skitter and tip and waver all over the place, and let out a squeak or two. Once we had to dismount and push our bikes through the sand trap.

Jellyfish left by the tide

Jellyfish left by the tide

All this different terrain and riding with a loaded bike has really improved Debbie’s bike handling skills. We travel along these gravelish paths and I am just hanging on as Debbie plows a path. When we ride the cobbles in town she gaps me big. She says it is fear, I say it is skill.

DenmarkA few observations. Danish grocery stores are very odd. They do have enough in them to construct a meal or two but they don’t have much variety. It is hard to put my finger on exactly what the difference between Canadian grocery stores and the Danish ones is but it just seems here they are lacking many of the items available at home. they have a feel like a Costco – buy some product on sale and in bulk and try to sell it to the populace.

Danish people seem very much like Canadians. All around the world Canadians are known as friendly. I would say the Danes fall very much into that category. When Debbie and I are standing somewhere looking puzzled it is likely someone will stop by and offer help. They are also polite and they follow the rules. If there is a sign stating ‘Don’t go here’, it is likely no one will be on the wrong side of the sign, they wait for the walk lights, the drivers yield to bikes and they observe no smoking areas. A very pleasant country so far.

Ringkobing Fjord

Ringkobing Fjord

Today could be our best ride to date. After the first 4 or 5 days which were quite similar the last few have be very different. See what tomorrow brings as we ride further east.

Ringkobing, Denmark

Ringkobing Marina

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Ribe to Nymindegab

Murray is kind to my legs today and we take the train north from Ribe to Varde. The train trip knocks about 30 km off what would have been a 73 km day. Knowing we have to ride for 5 days to get to Silkeborg, our next stopping point, I did not want to use up my legs.

We arrive in Varde at 10 am, and promptly loose our map on my iPhone. We end up having a short tour of Varde looking for a Tourist Information and then for a library. We get a so-so paper map from the first place and restore the map on the phone, with free WIFI, at the second. The center of Varde is laid out very similarly to Ribe with the huge cathedral in the central square and small shops and buildings all around. And the roads are cobblestone! And we are off north again.

It doesn’t seem to be a good day for navigating as we miss a number of turns and have to stop often to look at the maps. We missed a turn and end up riding down a lovely road with hardly any traffic, so that is a bonus.

I notice as we ride that there are many many oak trees here. At home, we do not see many, but here they seem grow in the wild. We also have entered an area where we are seeing more pine trees. And forest. There are wild roses beside the road, just like in Alberta. And sand dunes not so much like Alberta.

Sand dunes near Henne

Sand dunes near Henne

Murray has mapped us through a park and we ride a mountain bike path (gravelly old road) in the Blabjerg Klitplantage (someone’s forest!) for part of our journey. Up till now the people on bikes have been dressed in street clothes, today we see bikes riders on the trail dressed in kit. Here in tourist land they ride for fun not for utilitarian reasons.

Near Nymindegab

Murray has been hurting all day today so it is fortunate that our ride is only 43 km. Tonight we are staying in a DanHostel, tiny rooms, cook your own food, bring your own bed linens and towels. I am loafing as Murray snoozes.

Dan Hostel Nymindegab

DanHostel Nymindegab

We had only two choices of accommodation in Nymindegab and we chose the DanHostel knowing it was 3 km out of the town, but we will be okay for supper as they have a Cafe, which serves burgers and such. When we arrive we are informed that the Cafe closed August 1 at the end of the summer busy season. No worries there is a restaurant 1 km down the road. For some reason I check online what the opening hours are and find out that it is only open Friday, Saturday and Sunday now. Strike two. The only other restaurant the fellow at the DanHostel knows is in town is a very expensive one in an expensive hotel. But there is a grocery store. Since we left our fancy attire at home, we pass on the restaurant and ride the 3 km into town, buy a frozen pizza, 2 Cokes and a chocolate bar for supper. We have been making a joke about the food here. We both read that Denmark excels in the gastronomic delights. Well, that is not happening, and we are doing “Denmark by Pizza”!

There does not seem to be to many restaurants in rural Denmark at all. The ones that are here close early. We stroll the central area of the town finding maybe 5 restaurants in the entire place and the only ones open are the Chinese place, similar to the ones in every town in the world, and the pizza joint. Thus the our standard meal.

As we did not do a big distance on the bike today we took it a bit slower and stopped a couple times to smell the roses. The next 3 days we are doing shorter distances but there are towns to explore at the end of each ride. Hopefully we arrive early and get a good overview of what each place has to offer.

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Leaving Tonder

I sleep fitfully and every time I wake up I hear the wind howling and the rain thrumming on the roof. When we emerge from our down cocoons, the wind is still blowing and although the rain has stopped, we know it is just teasing us. We dawdle, eat breakfast, finish packing our panniers and decide to get on the road out of Tonder. It’s 8:30.

We ride towards MogelTonder, a cute little town with a huge church and charming main street. Half way there it pours on us. The streets in town are deserted except for a gentleman walking his dog asking me How are you?. I just laugh as I am soaked and dripping. We have a quick look at the church which dates back to the 1200s and ride out of town on the treacherous wet cobblestones.

Mogeltonder

Mogeltonder

We continue on our ride and as we turn north, we feel the wind at our backs and we are flying. Wet, but flying. We can see the coastal dyke out to the west in the mist. The dyke protects the farm land and marsh from the storm tides, which have flooded the area numerous times over the past few hundred years.

We ride some gravel, pavement and then, to our surprise, while trying to ride on an inside dyke, we ride on 8′ wide by 4′ long by 1″ thick metal plates laid cards like along the path. Bumpity Bumpity up and then Bumpity Bumpity down. We got off those as soon as we could as there were sharp edges and Murray didn’t like being on them, our tires we in jeopardy.

We were quite the side show when we stopped at a Perlen Grill for lunch. Dripping wet and hungry, hamburgers and fries do the trick. Just as we are set to go, it rains in sheets, so we run back into the Grill to wait it out.

We make Ribe by 2:00 and arrive at our B&B looking like drowned rats. The lady of the house wasn’t surprised by how wet we were. After a shower and hanging everything to dry, we head out to wander Ribe, Denmark’s oldest town. Some of the streets date back to the 9th century and the crooked houses to the 16th century.

Ribe Domkirke

Ribe Domkirke

The Domkirke (cathedral) is in the central plaza and is imposing. It would have dominated the country side  when it was built. Inside there is a column with a permanent mark dated 1634 where the water level came up in a bad storm tide. The mark was about at the top of my head.

Ribe, Denmark

We wander the narrow streets,shooting pictures and marveling at the quaint buildings. Finally my legs tell me to go rest and we are now back in our tiny rooms.

Ribe, Denmark

Ribe

 

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Will the Circle Be Unbroken, Tonder Finale

We arrive at Tent 2 with plenty of time to spare. Basically we are the first in the queue. Marie Boine is on our A list and she plays first on Sunday morning. There are maybe 10 people milling about waiting for the tape to be cut so we can go in. Tent 2 is set with chairs today and we get front and center. Marie has aged since the cover photos on the albums we have. The song she starts the show with again determines the mood for the rest of concert and it is a wonderous one. The first thing I note is the clarity of her voice. The stage crew has hit the sweet spot and the sound is amazing. Second thing is her piercing eyes. She makes sure to make eye contact with the crowd and you notice as her vision crosses over you. Marie has been at this for a while and it shows. The band and the entire show reeks of professionalism. This is the first show on our A list to exceed our expectations. She is great.

Marie Boine

Marie Boine

The ‘Gentlemen’s Circle’ is our next concert. 5 men, Jeffery Foucault (US), Joey Landreth (CAN), Luke Winslow-King (US), William Crighton (AUS), and Soren Huss (DK) play songs in the round, each one taking a turn. All very accomplished and the show was pleasant to watch. The last song they jammed a bit and that showed they are at the top of their game.

Jeffrey Foucault and William Crighton

Jeffrey Foucault and William Crighton

The last performer we have on our list is Parker Millsap. He played the EFMF a few summers ago and he did a great job so our expectations are high. He plays the Open Air stage. Most of his songs are poppish and he has lost some of his uniqueness. His show is still good but maybe not up to what we had hoped.

Parker Millsap

Parker Millsap

It is now time to bid farewell to the festival grounds. It’s been great and we have discovered a couple of bands that up to now have been unknown to us.  It is not in the plans to return but one never knows…

Tonder Music Festival

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Tonder Magic

There are seats at most of the venues but not too many and the rush to get one can be intense. There is no reserve seating. No tarps to stake your land. After every artist, the venue is cleared and only after the sound check are people allowed in to find a spot to view the next band. This works very well and avoids having real estate sit empty waiting for one particular act. Not many people bring their own chairs and if you are near the front of the stage you stand.

Cue outside the Pumpehuset waiting for the next concert

Queue outside the Pumpehuset, waiting for the next concert

At the Edmonton Folk Music Festival (EFMF) we sit at the venue and watch the sound check, here we queue outside the venue and wait for the sound check to be complete. For most of the venues there is a queue and when they open the gates it is not for the faint of heart. For the smaller venues your place in line determines whether or not you get in. For the larger stages it determines whether or not you have clear vision of the performers.

One big difference between here and home is the parking. Here it seems the parking restrictions are relaxed for this particular weekend. In Edmonton the parking restrictions are enhanced. I like the attitude here much better.

In Denmark, or at least at the Tonder Music Festival, beer is the new water. Debbie and I are on the festival site at 9.15am. 2 hours before the music starts. We are here to get tickets to a concert in one of the smaller venues. The beer vendors are already open.

Clapping to the music is always a thing at concerts. Even to my musically untrained ear the audience is always off beat. The first concert we attend in Tonder people started to clap. I noticed right away the clapping is in unison and in time with the fiddler’s foot stomp. The band was also amazed mentioning how good the audience kept the beat and how that never happens. Two days later a different band notes exactly the same thing.

We thought we could start a bit later today but as I perused the program I noticed the Lankum was ‘formerly known as’ Lynched. They should have been on our go to concert list and we missed. They play in the Bolero at 11.15am. In order to get in we need to pick up a ticket 2 hrs. prior to show time. This means we leave immediately. We know a bit of their music and the concert was beyond our expectations. They play old songs in a slow and deliberate fashion. I think it is how they think the songs are meant to be sung. The harmonies are rather hard and sharp, different to the smooth harmonies we get used to.

Nive Nielsen and the Deer Children came from Greenland and they play their only concert in a small venue, The Pumphouse. Her band is international. Excellent musicians that in my opinion work with sound rather than conventional music. The effect is stunning. I spend one hour completely absorbed.

Northern Assembly

Northern Assembly

We leave the Pumphouse and immediately join a line-up to get back in this time to see Northern Assembly. We had a preview of this band while we had lunch and immediately added them to the list of bands we wanted to see. The band played mostly their own uptempo folksy music. The opening number is perfect. It catches everyone’s attention and leaves us waiting for more. The whole band looks like they really enjoy what they are doing and we leave the hall with a great impression.

Yesterday we stood in line to see The Brother Brothers We were not within the first 150 and were turned away as the room was full. Today we made sure we were going to get in. Again we hear some really good music. They are really twin brothers and as such their harmonies are perfect and can only be accomplished by siblings. Their writing is insightful and the songs they choose to cover are also enlightening. Every song they sang was slow and quiet, I think a few uptempo songs would make the set more interesting. They did know this and mentioned they were ‘cleansing our ears’ from all the loud music.

The Brother Brothers

The Brother Brothers

We had circled Jolie Holland and Samantha Parton as one of our prime objectives over the course of the weekend. We planned it right and had no trouble getting a seat. They came with a band. They all seemed to be good musicians but we thought the concert did not live up to our expectations this time. The sound was off and I could not understand one word of what either lady sang. The drummer entertained me for the entire hour. He was not a ra ta tat one drum and a high hat kind of rhythm keeper. He made the drums talk and I really enjoyed it.

Jolie Holland & Samantha Parton

Jolie Holland & Samantha Parton

Tomorrow we have a couple of other circled performers we must see. If the weather holds it will be a good day.

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Tonder Music

It’s 10am, time to leave and it is pouring. Seems outdoor festivals and rain go hand in hand. Funny but between the time we leave the room and the time we get downstairs to the door the rain stops. Could turn out OK after all.

Our first impression is how many people there are on site yet it does not seem crowded. There is a relaxed atmosphere and we are not elbow to elbow. We were a bit put off when at two different benches built for three with only two occupants, Debbie asks if she could sit and the answer was a very sharp NO. Didn’t seem too friendly to us. But we soon found people willing to share and we shared a sitting cube with another couple and had a great time asking questions and getting the ins and outs of the festival workings.

One of the more chi chi things at this festival is the portapotties. No outhouse style can here. These are temporary single stall flush toilets. They are set in banks of eight and moved to the next event on a flatbed truck. Pretty damn fancy. We are both very impressed with these!!

Open Air Stage

Open Air Stage

Celtic music seems to be what we are taking in the most but the first band we see today is on the main stage. FolkBaltica Ensemble is a youth orchestra comprised of young people from the surrounding area both Danish and German. The local school kids had the morning off school so they could attend this particular concert and boy did that up the numbers. The main stage audience tripled and there was little room left to move.

Skipinnish

Skipinnish

At Tent 2 Skipinnish is playing. They are from Scotland and have two sets of the ubiquitous Scottish pipes as part of their group. The music they play is a modern take of the traditional Scottish repertoire.  They were talented and well practiced. We quite enjoyed their show.

On to Tent 1 and Sam Kelly and the Lost Boys. A group of young guys from Britain. Really liked the part of the set we sat in on. They had kind of rockish bent on folk music. Did an excellent rendition of Bob Dylan’s little known ‘Crash on the Levee’. It is their last gig here but I will try to remember their name in case we come across them in the future. Might be tempted to buy their CD even after listening to just one song.

Tonder Music Festival

One of the stars on our list of bands to see is Michael McGoldrick, John McCusker and John Doyle. These three are now the old guys of the British folk scene. They are masters of their instruments. The concert was letter prefect and just what you might expect. I personally found it a bit uninspiring but could not help but marvel at the mastery of their craft.

Each time we pass through the entry gate our bag is checked. They are not just looking for glass bottles and/or alcohol but any liquid what so ever. This was outlined in the program so we are aware and only bring along empty bike water bottles. On about our 4th time through the gate the young lady informs us we can have one bottle of water with us. This will be handy as we are not able to find a water station anywhere on site.

The on site ATM’s are quite a bit different then the ones we see at home. Think of an Atco trailer with two wicket windows, a very nice helpful person sitting at each window that hands you a portable point of sale machine, you insert your card, type out your pin and when it is approve the person behind the wicket window hands you the cash. Some things in Europe are way ahead of NA but I don’t think they have the portable ATM thing down yet.

The food situation is very good here. There is a good selection of different types of food and all of it is relatively inexpensive. AND I have yet to see a line up of any length at any of the vendors.

This evening we seemed to focus on women’s groups. The first band is a duo from the US, Dusty Heart. Very good harmonies and interesting kibitzing between songs. Their songs could have used a bit of variation in volume and/or tempo but I enjoyed the show immensely.

The last group of the evening for us was All Our Exes Live In Texas from Australia. Didn’t really get the name except they explained they had been to Texas a few times and were looking without much success for would be exes. Again their songs were all quite similar. Their between song banter was quite topical and funny. They had obviously done their homework on Denmark. Another show worth seeing.

It did rain a few more times throughout the day but we managed to be inside each time it decided to pour and we stayed dry. See what tomorrow brings.

Tonder Music Festival

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Tonder Music Festival

The festival gates open at noon today and when we walk through them at about 12:15, there is no line, no rush, just relaxed folks strolling around, sitting, eating  and drinking beer. Lots of beer. The site is huge. There is an Open Air Stage and three huge tents with large stages and tons of covered sitting and standing room.

We choose our first concert to go to in one of the smaller venues. The Visemollen, a 150 seat what looks to be an old mill. We listen to Coig, from Canada. Some back story first.

Last winter we went to see Coig at the Northern Light Folk Club in Edmonton, and they happened to mention that they would be going to Tonder in the summer. We knew then that we were also going, so after the show we spoke with Rachel from the band and told her we were also going. I said to her that we would find them at Tonder to say HI.

Coig was fantastic and a joy to listen to and watch. After the concert, we waited for the band to come out to the foyer and we talked to Rachel and reminded her of our conversation and she remembered. We wished each other a great weekend and all left with smiles.

Tonder Music Festival

One thing we have noticed about the scheduling of music at Tonder is that the music is spread out. There isn’t constant music like at the Edmonton Folk Music Festival. Each stage has set up/sound check time for each band, so there are gaps in between the bands playing. Also, it seems that when a band is playing at one of the large stages, the other large stages are quiet. So people mill about, with time to eat more and drink yet another beer.

The one thing that is completely different to what we are used to is the standing up for concerts. The standers are in front of the stage and the sitters are towards the back and sometimes to the side. This makes difficult for short people to see, the Danes seem to be rather tall. As the crowd has lots of grey hair, there are many sitters, including us. I am definitely not a stander.

Music highlights today were Coig and Jeffrey Foucault. Jeffrey is a country bluesy folksy singer and his band was tight. I’m impressed.

I wonder what tomorrow will bring?

 

 

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On The Road Into Tonder

Today we stand in the main square in Tonder.

Tonder Music Festival 2018

This is coming home with us!

Rise early, on the road at 8.09am and ride into Tonder before 1pm. No gravel today but most of the ride was on highway with no bike road and a shoulder that varied between 8″ and 1′. There are some jerks on the road, one van actually zoomed us but most of the folks gave us a wide berth when it was possible. Much like riding in Alberta these days. We did run into some folks from Germany that were not completely happy with Danish drivers saying German drivers are much more respectful of bicyclists.

Noticeable differences between today’s ride and the last few days. First the lack of a bike road. Until today we have spent very little time on the highway but today it is most of the ride.  The first 1/2 of the ride from Sonderborg has a much hillier profile then else where we have ridden to date. Mind you the last portion of the ride into Tonder is dead pan flat. The farm houses are not so tightly spaced. I’m guessing there are bigger farms in this area. And my favorite difference is the wind had abated. Most of the ride the only wind was the one we created ourselves. When mother nature blew it was not nearly as strong as the winds we have had every inch of the way till now. Debbie even road at the front for quite a while.

Windmill in Denmark

Windmill

As we left Sonderborg today we climbed a very reasonable grade of a hill. Makes sense as Sonderborg is at sea level and we are headed inland. On the very top of the climb is a very different windmill. One that 30 years ago would have been the only kind you might see but now is in the complete minority. It is now part of history. Probably was 30 years ago but with the literal 1000’s of the more modern electricity producing windmills this ancient predecessor is something for tourists to behold.

Solar Panel Field

Solar Panel Field

On the west side of the highway as we approach Tinglev is the biggest solar panel field we have seen live and in person. Acres and acres of solar panels installed on what was farmland. The decision was made that electricity is more important than food. After all we have enough food. And electricity is worth far more money than wheat or hay. I don’t think the people that made that decision were there when another group said ‘lets go full tilt on coal, I mean what harm can it cause’. They weren’t there when the next group said ‘let’s go full tilt on oil it is harmless and the way of the future’. I have no better solution and I should be dead by the time that particular land will be required to feed the people but I am quite sure the day will come. In the mean time I do need to charge my computer and camera.

We are in Tonder!

We are in Tonder!

Tonder is packed. The festival starts tomorrow and everyone is congregating. Before we arrived we wondered how such a small center could accommodate the numbers of people said to attend the event. 20,000 descend on a town of 7,900.  Maybe the surrounding towns fill up and folks drive in for the day or take the train or bus.

Tonder Music Festival

We go to get the wrist bands we will wear for the weekend and as we wander around the edge of the site we run across the camping area. There are hundreds of small travel trailers and a few tents parked within inches of each other. If half the folks are camping and each camp unit has two people that means there are 5000 units in the field. Hope it doesn’t rain or it will be hell to strike camp when the time comes.

We made it to Tonder!

We made it to Tonder! I need food!

As we walk down main street and observe the people we assume are here to listen to music we note there is one overwhelming prominent characteristic. They are all old. I think today was the first day of school for Danish children. It is the first time we have seen bikes at the school yard and school crosswalk patrollers standing at the corner with the stop signs in the ready position. So I am guessing this is not a family event. I also do not think having a solely senior customer base is as much of a problem in Europe as it is in North America. The population is much larger and there is always a large number of people entering the ranks of the aged to replace the ones that depart out the opposite end. Anyway we will see what the weekend brings when all the working stiffs have a couple of days off.

We made it and now the reason d‘etre is nye.

 

 

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On the Road to Tonder-what day is it?

I am sitting on the bed in the Sonderborg City Danhostel eating licorice and wishing for bedtime. Yeah, I’m pooped, again.

Murray indulges in an island delicacy this morning at breakfast in our hotel. Aero pandekager. He says it is really tasty, sorta like a small elephant ear we can buy at the exhibition. To me, it looks really good with icing sugar sprinkled on top and a bowl of mystery berry jam and I so want one!

Aero Countryside

Aero Countryside

We follow bike route 91 this morning from Marstal to Soby, where we are to catch the ferry. Rolling countryside, dairy farms, fields of wheat. Picturesque. We pass by the occasional table sitting by the road at the farm with jars of jam or honey for sale. All on the honour system with a little can to deposit the payment. We are tempted but our pannier space is all used up.

We ride along the coast for awhile and the ocean is a dark grey blue colour with sail boats whizzing along.

We turn inland again and encounter the steepest hill yet. Fortunately it was not too long and we were both able to stand up and peddle over it. Heart rates and breathing maxed out though! There are small villages dotting the countryside. The villages are maybe a grouping of two or three houses or farms. Many of the houses are joined to thier barns making it look like one big building. The island of Aero is known for its hiking and cycle routes and this portion lives up to the hype.

The sections of the road are gravel. Our view becomes what is in front of us down on the road as the surface is not ideal for stability. This part of the ride is hard and not so pleasant, but we remain upright and on pavement once again.

Oopsie!

We take some down time while waiting for the ferry and watch the excitement at the dock. A boat sitting at the dock toppled over and hit the pier with a loud bang. In no time there is a group of workers trying to right the boat before it sinks. Apparently the boat did not have an engine in it yet and it looks like there was some heavy something on the deck that may have unbalanced the boat. When righted it sat very high in the water so the stories we heard sound plausible.

Once off the ferry, we have 30 km to reach Sonderborg. We take a circuitous route to stay off the main road and get slightly lost and then found and then lost again but then do end up in Sonderborg. Funny how that happens! We always call out to each other “Bike Up!” when there is an approaching bike. Once I got to call out “Horse and Rider Up!” This portion of the ride was just a ride for me, get ‘er done. Sorry, Murray.

Tomorrow will be our longest ride. It is about 70 km to Tonder. Music awaits.

Goodbye Aero

Goodbye Aero

 

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On the Road to Tonder Day 3

The first two days we spent traversing the islands of Falster and Lolland. Both these islands are similar to home in many ways. Denmark is about the same latitude as Edmonton so the climate should be similar as well. The water moderates temperatures here but it is still around 20C as a norm. The trees are very much like ours, poplar, some sort of mapleish tree, a few fir trees. There are quite a few ‘wild’ fruit trees. All along the wooded sections of the bike trails there are patches of ripe cherries and apples laying about.

The land on both sides of the road is farmland. There are some animal farms but for the most part it looks like they grow hay and grain. The crops must ripen somewhat faster as they have already be swathed.

There are wasps here and they are bothersome just like home. Haven’t seen too many other bugs and they must be few as there is no screens on the windows.

One difference is the Danes don’t seem to use toasters. We have stayed at two places with kitchens so far and no toasters. In the first place I notice a fellow using the broiler to toast his bread so at the next place that is what I do. I think there may be an opportunity here. A wholesale toaster business. Toasters seem a lot less hassle than using a broiler to brown a couple pieces of toast.

Today was by far the best riding we have done. From Nakskov to the ferry at Tars we are routed along a paved country road. It is technically rush hour and we maybe saw 8 cars in 12km. It was then chill time on the ferry. Water is very much part of the Danish world and by default in modern times so are ferries.

Tars to Spodsbjerg Ferry

Tars to Spodsbjerg Ferry

We get off that ferry and traverse the island of Langeland. This is by far the hilliest terrain we have encountered. But again we are routed along a county lane and it is a great ride. We can use the highway to make time and even though the bike lane is a separate entity it is still noisy and lacks character. From what we see this island too is mostly farmland. It is purported to be very good for cycling and has a intricate network of bike routes.

We cross a very long but not too high bridge to the island of Tasinge. Here we are forced to ride along the freeway for a few kms but soon follow one of the national bike routes off into the wooded hills. This is the first forest we have encountered. A good part of it looks like it has been reforested as the trees grow in rather unnatural very straight lines but none the less it is definately not farmed and is quite a contrast to what we have passed through up to now.

This diversion also leads us to Valdemars Slot. Slot is Danish for castle. This estate was built by one of the kings in the 1600s but the king died in a war with Poland before it was finished. A couple of hundred years later it was given to one of the Danish army’s prominent people for his contribution to the war effort when things were not so friendly with Sweden. Pretty impressive digs.

Valdemars Slot

Valdemars Slot – a side building with road through it!

We then pass through a stunning village or maybe a town, Troense. It looks to me like a fancy resort town. Very upscale houses, two or three marinas and a laid back kind of feel. Only thing is I didn’t notice much tourist infrastructure. We have to make another ferry so we don’t spend enough time here but we do get a glimpse of a very nice place.

After another up and down bridge crossing. Bridges seem to be the steepest and longest hills here. We pass very quickly through Svendborg. We are completely absorbed in finding our way to the ferry dock and I can’t tell you weather the place is nice or not. But with only one wrong turn we do find the ferry dock.

75 mins. on ferry number two of the day and we land on the island of Aero. We have a time limit to make a ferry tomorrow so we decide to ride part of this island today. We get off the boat at Aeroskobing. Looks like a real interesting place. Very touristy, sort of like Banff. The streets are all cobbles. Real cobbles squarish stones laid side to side. Doesn’t make for good riding and the houses are all well kept and fairy tale like. It reminded me of Mykonos in Greece, with way more tourists wandering the street then locals. Another place we could well have spent more time but are only able to take in as we cycle through.

Our goal today is Marstal. This island is a tourist destination so we expect a lot of people. We don’t have a place to stay so that is a bit of a worry but there is always a park bench. We ride along part of national route number 92 and it is a super compacted gravelly path. The wind is finally at our back and we fly along enroute we pass through Ommel, a completely not tourist town on a tourist island. Worth the extra 3 or 4km diversion to peddle along their streets. In Marstal with luck we are directed to the tourist information office. The fellow there is extremely helpful and finds us a small hotel with a room and we are set for the night.

Marstal Beach House

The famous Marstal Beach House

We settle in then head for the ‘strand’, I think means beach or spit, to find the colorful beach houses this place is known for. A beach house is a very small building, maybe 8′ x 10′, with one room and a few seats. Most likely used to change into one’s bathing suit and to sit around on the beach on a cold or windy day.

The island we crossed today seems to be more refined than the last two. The bike paths are manicured, whereas the last two days they exist but are overgrown with weeds along the edges and have more patches of broken asphalt. The villages are a bit more upscale. The houses on Lolland and Falster were kept up and for the most part very tidy but the places we passed today looked manicured. We’ll have to see how things transpire over the next couples of day before we take a pause in Tonder.

Tall Ships moored in Marstal

Tall Ships moored in Marstal

 

 

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