Purgatory

purgatory hanging at the airport reading 6 hours in a metal tube winging to Japan Narita fast trains snoozing in the sun on a bench polite people rice crackers soaked in soya sauce yum walking walking sobaya noodle soup walking chilly hanging at the airport reading 8 hours in a tube over the Pacific sleeping sleeping congee for breakfast yuck Vancouver 36 hours in transit and counting droopy eyelids fuzzy teeth longing for my own bed in need of a shower 10 hour layover punishment for being stupid broken suitcase chilly Vancouver people out and about hamburger and fries hanging at the airport reading trying to stay awake last leg in a tube polar bear documentary with no sound whiteness snow on the runway checked bags arrive taxi snowy roads home again bed flannel sheets heaven

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Seven Hours in Narita, Japan

Narita, Japan

Narita

We are walking down Omotesando Road in Narita and it is 8:00 am. We are the only ones around. It is Saturday morning and the residents are sleeping in. We know the temple is down the road and that is where we are heading. When we arrive there, we notice the differences in architecture between Japanese temples and Myanmar and Thai temples. The lines are cleaner. The colours more monochrome. There is more natural landscaping and pruned vegetation. It is refreshing.

Narita, JapanWhen we passed through Frankfurt a couple of years ago, we happened to be there on a Sunday when all the museums were free. Today the admission into the Calligraphy Museum, on the temple site, is free. We stroll through marveling at the calligraphy on large sheets of paper.

Narita, JapanWe have timed our visit, quite accidentally, with the turning of colours on a particular tree. Its leaves are a bright red colour and we spend time shooting photos of the sun passing through these brilliant leaves. Other walkers have also noticed the effect and are happily photographing.

We walk the grounds, up steps, to lakes, over stepping stones to a waterfall, around old halls and temples and finally wind our way back to the main temple. There we see many young children dressed in traditional costume. We ask a couple of people and they tell us that when a child reaches an odd number age, say 3 or 5 or 7, it is celebrated by dressing up, going to the temple and out for lunch with family. The little girls look especially cute as geisha.

Narita, JapanOn Omotesando Road there are now more people about and the shops and restaurants are open. We stop at a shop that is selling rice cracker snacks, large round waffle crackers dipped in soya sauce. I’m ecstatic! A snack Debbie can eat. 250 Yen and totally worth it. The people we pass are reserved, friendly and not loud or brash. The talking horns are non-existent. We poke around in the shops, walk around some of the back roads and then go looking for lunch.

Narita, JapanWe end up at a restaurant called Onoya. We order chicken with rice and soup and sobaya noodle soup with tempura. We learn the sobaya is noodles made from buckwheat. Buckwheat does not have gluten in it, so it is Debbie friendly. The food is good, if not delicious. We try each other’s food and do not leave hungry. In Japan, soup is eaten with chopsticks and by picking up the bowl to drink the broth. I could get into this. The staff at the restaurant are super friendly and are very willing to help out the only two English speakers in the place.

We walk some more and then head back to the airport with tired legs and feet for our long haul over the Pacific.

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We F***ed Up

Murray says that when someone has a compliant at Snow Valley, it usually isn’t just one thing; it is a number of things that lead up to the complaint. This theory also applies to why we missed our flight from Bangkok to Tokyo.

  1. When we booked flights and hotels for this trip, our heads were still in Africa. Our usual double check may not have occurred.
  2. When we were packing, our usual double check may not have occurred.
  3. Too many pre-arranged, fully taken care of tours lately.
  4. Not enough traveling on our own.
  5. Confusing the dates on the flight itinerary (How the itinerary is laid out with the dates.) – Nov. 13 @ 11.55pm; not twigging to the fact this is about Nov 13 and not about Nov 14.
  6. Not double checking the flight date and time a few days prior to the actual date.
  7. Getting old.

We wake at the usual time this morning, Nov 14 and are talking about what time and day it will be in Japan and Vancouver when we are there and the times are not adding up. I check our flight itinerary and realize our flight left at midnight last night. SHIT!!!! Okay, I know, this is totally ALL our fault. Not an airlines fault this time.

Between packing up in a hurry, I check available flights through Air Canada and we decide to head to the airport to see if we can change flights and still make the Tokyo to Edmonton legs.

While trying to maintain “travel mode”, here is where the frustration starts. Thai Airways cannot change any flights even though they code share the first flight and are Star Alliance members. The fellow says we have to phone Air Canada. Before we left Edmonton, we found out that Air Canada could not help us and we have to go through our travel agent. Now we have to phone Canada and the travel agent we went through and it is night time in Edmonton.

Find a phone place, buy a card, phone the travel agent and she tells us she cannot get through to Air Canada because THEY ARE CLOSED!!! AC runs a global service, yet their ticket office is closed for the night. The reservation office is open but they cannot help with changing the tickets already purchased. GRRRR! The travel agent will phone them as soon as they are open and get us re-routed, leaving Nov 15 from Bangkok, through Tokyo and Vancouver then home. We have to phone her at midnight our time to confirm all this.

We go to the Plai Gardens Hotel, where we stayed on first arrival in Bangkok, before Myanmar. I get on the web and the AC site and find an earlier flight through AC and now we do not know why the travel agent did not put us on that one. It is all so confusing.

So we are in limbo until midnight, or later.

 Things we learned:

  • Do not book through travel agents again.
  • Do not use Air Canada.
  • Do not rush booking the next trip too close to coming down from a previous trip.
  • When booking flights and hotels, both of us need to be involved and double checking everything.
  • Re-review flight days and times a couple of days before the flight. (DUH!) Scrutinize itinerary, especially when traversing the international date line.
  • This is definitely the last time we travel without a cell phone.
  • Don’t get old!

Post Script:

The time difference is killing us. Our ticket lady had to wait until morning in Canada to confirm and pay for the flights to get us home. She is scheduled to send us an email at midnight our time. We have been staying up late here but not till midnight and the television is only so exciting……we are having trouble staying awake.

12:08 and we receive the email we are waiting for. We are on the flights we had discussed and will be jetting home tomorrow. Time to sleep.  All in a day’s punishment for being stupid.

Post Post Script:

This bit of stupidity could have cost us $2,200 or $2,600 if we had to book completely new flights. We may have gotten home earlier if we had chosen this route. Instead, by waiting essentially 2 days, we are paying $860 (plus the cost of a cheap hotel and meals) to get home. So we saved a few bucks by delaying our return, after all, we are retired and have all the time in the world.

Let’s try this again….See you on the other side.

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Transportation Varieties in Bangkok

Today is a day of transportation varieties. Flagged down a taxi and got a ride to the National Museum. It is not where we wanted to go but the taxi and tuk tuk drivers are not real familiar with the tourist sites of the city and it is where he thought we meant when we first got in. Our goal is the Royal Barge Museum and it is not far from where we got dropped, so we decided to not try and explain and just to get out and walk the rest of the way.

Bangkok

Royal Barges

Walking gives us a chance to walk a bridge over the river and again see the city from another perspective. It real hot again but the walk is only about ½ an hour. It is amazingly easy to find the route, not the usual case in a place where signage is often non-existent, and when it does exist it is often not in English. The destination was somewhat disappointing. The Royal Barges are being refurbished and the exhibit is closed until January 1. It seems that this is a well-guarded secret. As we are on our way out, a bicycle tour is on the way in, I try to tell them the museum is closed but they pay no attention and continue on their way.

After we cross the bridge back to the Bangkok side and walk along the riverside walk to the ferry dock we board a very crowded orange flag public ferry. We do our touring by river boat today. We are definitely moving with the tourists again. The ferry is a local ferry but it is cheap and an easy way to get from site of interest to site of interest. A good number of the people on board are tourists.   

Bangkok

View from Wat Arun’s heights

Our next stop is Wat Arun, one of Bangkok’s most impressive and famous landmarks. It is the only wat we visited in Bangkok that is climbable, it provides a panorama view of the city and helps to orient our previous walking routes.

Bangkok

Porcelain on Wat Arun

In search of a restaurant we did not find yesterday we take our next ferry to the Memorial Bridge dock and set out on foot along the road we think the place is on. Yesterday we walked the north ½ of Maha Chai Road and could not find the restaurant, so today we tread the south end and come up empty handed again. This searching is putting our lunch timing out a great deal and we do not find another place to eat until 2:30. We wander through the edge of Chinatown and finally spot the Shangri-La Restaurant, how can we turn it down. Chinese food for lunch, here we are in Thailand and we have only eaten at one Thai restaurant. We will try again to find one tonight.   

Orange Flag Ferry, Bangkok

Orange Flag Ferry

Just as we get back on the river the ferry driver guns the motor to get around a larger barge type boat. The barge blocks the vision to the right and as we pass all of the passengers on the right side of the boat (starboard is the proper term I believe) gasp and duck. A long tail boat with an equally long nose is full throttle right towards us. The driver of the long tail hits reverse hard and misses us by a foot. I’m not really prepared of a swim in the river so I’m kind of glad he missed but it makes for a good story. Our river expedition ends at the intersection of the river and the skytrain. We get out of the boat, climb the stair and board the train. Off to the hotel for a needed rest.

The next mode of transport is the local bus. We hear there is a night bazaar near the Memorial Bridge and have been told bus number 73, which we catch across from the Lub D, goes right there. We climb aboard and immediately the ticket seller is down the bus aisle making sure everyone pays. I am impressed with her efficiency as she knows exactly who got on the bus at our stop and collects a mere 11 Baht bus fare from each person. The lady is dressed in a navy blue shirt, white shirt and navy suit jacket. She has heels on and her hair is done up nicely. She has a long metal tubular hand held money holder and ticket dispenser. Very efficient!

We wander the night bazaar and realize we are too early. The vendors are just setting up for the night. We head back into Chinatown the shopping stalls have shut it down for the evening. So it is time to go back to Siam Square near our hotel.

The final mode of transport for the day is a tuk tuk. We manage to hail one after getting turned down by a number of taxis. Murray haggles, all in fun, with the tuk tuk driver and they settle on a price. Off we go like a bat out of hell. Tuk tuks are much faster than cabs because they drive in and out of the traffic, take short cuts and sometimes even zoom down the wrong side of the street.

We have had a day of walking, boats, train, a taxi, a bus and a tuk tuk. Sorry, no helicopters or airplanes. I think we will get our fill of planes over the next day or so, as we are heading home. See you on the other side.

Bangkok

Decoration on Wat Arun

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Day Two in Bangkok

Bangkok is one of the better cities I have visited in the world. It is relatively clean. There is something happening at every street corner, the people are very friendly, and I have felt safe all the time on the street.

The pace here is slow, the walking pace that is, I walk fast and Debbie and I have had to adjust our walking speed by half. This is partially due to the heat and partially by the volume of pedestrians. Also the sidewalks are not in pristine condition and care must be taken to not trip or twist an ankle.

BangkokThe traffic is a bit crazy but much more orderly than other Asian cities. The talking horn is non-existent here. The cars and motor bikes ebb and flow just as in other places but no one toots the horn. The drivers have their spidey sense engaged and there is rarely a conflict. Traffic lights actually mean something, the traffic stops when a red light appears and goes on green.

BangkokEvery one is quite patient and pedestrians have some sort of right of way. Debbie and I have been mid street when someone will actually stop and give us a wave to continue. When we actually use a crosswalk the traffic stops in both directions and lets us pass. I do not think this is because we are obvious tourists, this happens when locals are poised at a crosswalk as well. Debbie still uses the old “latch onto a local and cross with them” technique, which works very well but if a local is not available it is easy to get curb to curb here.

Bangkok

Riding in a tuk tuk

Our first tuk tuk ride today. The fellow at the front desk said a taxi would be cheaper but we had to get into one of the three wheeled motor bikes and take an open air ride to Chinatown. Chinatown epitomizes what Asia is all about, crowded streets with open air stalls lining both sides of the road and taking up most of the sidewalk. The difference here is the sellers are not aggressive. Everyone waits for the customer to come to them.

BangkokWe are on our way to a night market tonight. The Asiatique has a free shuttle boat from the skytrain line to the jetty adjacent to the market which is open 6pm to 11:30pm every night. SKIP IT. It is a very nice absolutely sterile place, an open air shopping mall with zero personality. Debbie had thought it might be the case but we thought we would go and see anyway. Although prepared we are disappointed anyway.

Three nights in Bangkok and our third night out.  Debbie makes two observations while we are walking the streets after dark.  One is the number of single women out after dark and the second is the fact no one carries their bag in front of them and most do not have it across their chest. As I mentioned above I have not felt threatened here and these two notings help to back up my ease.

We have one more full day in Bangkok and we will travel the river to some sights and visit another, hopefully more real, night market.

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A Day of Wats in Bangkok

We thought we would start with the basic tourist stuff, spelled WAT, and see if we can get our bearings to wander the city tomorrow and the next day. At the suggestion of the hotel clerk we took the sky train to the river and then boarded a river boat to the dock closest to the Royal Palace.

BangkokThere is a demonstration planned for today and the hotel guy thought the traffic would be tied up and the best way into town would be above street level and on the water. Neither of which is likely to be affected by the large crowds expected to gather to protest the new amnesty law being debated that would allow politicians from a previous government to come back from exile without punishment.

Royal Palace, Bangkok

Decoration on the Royal Palace Temples

We found the tourists. Every tourist present in Bangkok is at the Royal Palace. I have a sneaking suspicion it is like this every day, much the same as the Forbidden City in Beijing. We should have learned from that experience and arrived right at opening. I think the crowds would have been less. The first 300M of the route has a person standing or moving on every square meter. There is a chance to divert from the obvious path and Debbie and I take the alternate route. It is much quieter and we can move along at our speed and take in the sites. This palace and its grounds are the center piece of Thailand’s monuments and it is easy to see why. The detail and ornateness is mind boggling. The Thai people have also understood that maintenance is very important to the life of this national monument. This is something that we will see all day long as we visit other wats.

There are very strict rules on what can be worn in the Royal Palace compound. Debbie had on long shorts but they were not long enough for the regulations. She had to borrow a sarong from the textile museum before we could proceed to the ticket booth. As I stood waiting, one lady had an argument with the guard because he said to her a scarf draped over her shoulders was not acceptable, she must obtain a shirt from the clothing distributor. I do not know why she thought arguing will change the situation; she is not going to win.

After departing an area far too crowded for our liking we create our own route that allows us to see some wats (temples) I had marked of interest in my pre-trip research. Every one we stopped at was very well maintained and extremely detailed. There is a lot of gold glittering but I think a good majority is paint not gold or gold leaf as is claimed in Myanmar. The places are for the most part active places of worship and they are very impressive indeed.

The oddest thing about today is the protest. Debbie and I had discussed that if we ran into any masses of humanity gathering on the street we would head in a different direction. Unfortunately, a couple of times when we head in the direction of this place or the next we have to cross an area where protesters are gathering. The first time it was an impromptu gathering right near the Royal Palace. We walk through the edge of the crowd at double time.  There are only a couple of hundred people and it all seemed rather peaceful.

The second time we cross paths with the gathering mass is passing by Democracy Square. We later find out this is the spot where the protest is to be. Again we skirt the edge of the group and double time it. Once passed we think we are in the clear and continue our journey to the new palace. The new palace is in an area where  a good lot of government buildings are. We cross a canal, on the other side is coils and coils of ribbon wire. It looks pretty scary. Just beyond the ribbon wire is a policeman peering over a tall concrete barrier. I thought this odd and assumed it was some sort of military establishment beyond and it required some sort of special protection. We walk the block and as we approach the next intersection there is more ribbon wire, more concrete barriers and an entire phalanx of police dressed in riot gear with shields propped on the concrete. The first intersection was scary but this is down right intimidating.

BangkokEach street we pass has the same setup. We realize if the protesters start to move this is the street they will follow, it is the government buildings they will head for and these guys dressed in blue are the ones here to protect them. We arrive at the corner we must turn on to get to the new palace and it is blocked by yet another wall of concrete and police. I ask one of the officers if the palace is down this road and he says yes, yes go ahead. Both of us thought it strange we should be let in behind police lines but in we go thinking if we put enough distance between the barrier and us we would be safe. The palace is closed on Mondays, which we did not realize and walked a long way for nothing.

So we walk in the direction opposite to the street of potential danger. The blocks are very long and it is not possible to see from one intersection to the other. As we get to the end of the block we start seeing more police vehicles. There is a barricade protecting the other end of the street in case a riot is started on the street parallel. Debbie and I realize we have just passed through a DMZ. Never been in one of those and as we did not know we were in one it wasn’t even scary.

Marble Temple, Bangkok

Marble Temple

Our next destination, the marble temple, is also in another DMZ on the next street over. The wat is faced with imported Italian marble, quite beautiful and I would imagine quite expensive. We get there as soon as we can, rush through not giving it the time it deserves and again try to head in a direction not likely to be involved in any trouble. 

Wats till the end, with a little DMZ thrown in. We intend to take a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel but Debbie looks at the map and realizes we are within walking distance and we hoof it back to a room with AC and a spot to lay prone. There is one more wat to see and that should be it for the next two days. 

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Moving from the Maldives to Bangkok

It is a travel day today. We pack up on the boat, say good bye to our fellow divers and fly east towards Bangkok.

We are staying in the Lub d Hostel, a recommendation from our friends J&R. The Lub d gives excellent instructions on taking the Airport Rail Link and BTS (Bangkok Transit System) to the hostel from the airport. From the time we land, it takes us 1 ½ hours to flow through the airport and arrive unscathed. Tidy little place only 30 or so steps from the skytrain station. It is quite hostel like with lots of young people sitting around on the coffee house deck out front and at the internet stations in the lobby. The decor is stark but just fine with me. Our room is Asian size. Take a standard North American hotel room and take away ½ the area. The furniture, washroom and shower are the same but not as much room to put it in and we are quite comfortable. We really do not need all the space.

Lub d Hostel, Bangkok

Our room at the Lub d Hostel

Requiring dinner, Debbie and I light out down the street. We are not downtown proper but there is much action. It is just 9pm but the streets are still crowded. With the overhead train the stores lining the street are not easily visible so it is hard to get a grasp on what is around and we do not see any eating establishments. I see a sign advertising a food fair type place in a mall on the corner opposite so for efficiency sake we eat there with the idea it will be the last fast food we eat here. We really enjoy Thai food at home and hope we are able to find some good food here.

We have an easy day today not one glitch in the move. We will see what tomorrow brings.

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Last Day of Diving in the Maldives

Maldives

Spotted Eagle Ray

Our last dive is one of diversity. The first half of the dive has us watching for sharks and spotted eagle rays. Big fish. The second half has us looking for small “fish”. We find Tri Line Flatworms, Green Mantis Shrimp, “Nemo” fish and nudibranches. Our dive group is the only one on the thila this morning and it is relaxing and not crowded.

MaldivesThe divers extend the dive as long as possible knowing this is it. No more. It is back to Dubai, Seoul, London, Singapore and Philadelphia. For some, it is back to work. For two it is another blissful week on the Orion. For us, it is Bangkok.

The dive boat crew is rinsing our dive gear and drying it out. A service we were not expecting. It is now drying on the top deck in the sun and wind. We will pack up as soon as it is dry. For now we are catching up with blogging, visiting and organizing for our next leg of our journey.

 This trip is outstanding. The idea of diving with 17 people that want to dive in a boat the goes from dive site to dive site searching out the best of what the Maldives has to offer has been completely satisfying. The routine is 6am wake up call dive brief at 6:30, on the dhoni as soon as the brief has ended. Back from the dive, breakfast 2hr surface interval, dive. Lunch, interval, dive. If there is a night dive we do it after a 2 hr interval and then dinner is served. Dive logs, blog, sleep, repeat.

I would recommend the MV Orion live aboard dive boat to anyone. The boat itself is in good shape, it is only 5 years old, and the folks keep it in good repair. The system is totally user friendly I didn’t feel out of my element once. The divers are a great group and very accomplished divers. The staff is so good. They are pleasant, efficient, helpful, and every one of them does their job extremely well. If you dive you don’t have to worry about booking with these folks.

Each site we have visited is different in a big way. Most times when visiting a land resort the dive sites are similar with minor variations. But here the differences are dramatic. One site is a shark site, one is for manta viewing, one is a standard wall type dive, and we experienced one with an amazingly fast current, didn’t really see much but sure had fun flying through the water. 

MaldivesIt is sad to think we have completed our last dive here and to get here is a major pain but in the back of my mind this is one place I think I will return. It could easily be tacked on to a trip to India.  I’ll have to see what Debbie thinks.

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Diving and Sharks in the Maldives

Last night we popped up at the end of the night dive, the fellow took our camera and set it on the table. When I went to retrieve it there was condensation on the inside. Bad news. On closer inspection there were droplets of water running on the inside. The last time this happened the LED screen turned blue, the camera sizzled and that was that. This time the camera worked all evening. We opened the case and a small amount of water did run out. The camera is still working, the battery is not wrecked and the SD card is fine. Later in the evening we decided to forgo picture taking this morning and take an empty housing to depth and see if it leaked. The answer for all those now sitting on the edge of their seats is ———-No water.

The dive this morning was rather bland. There is a group of reef sharks that hang out at the channel mouth, we are to settle in on the edge of the thila and wait for the sharks to appear. There are several sharks circling around and one or two come within 30ft but not very close. We do get a better look than the other sightings but not even close to being scared.

Maldives

White Tip Shark

As time progresses we drift over the top of the thila and spot a couple of dining turtles munching on coral. One of them was using his front flippers to hold the coral while eating. I thought this quite clever.

There are no shoes allowed on the boat and with all the time spent in Myanmar temples and the five complete and entire days on the boat we figure we have officially spent ½ of our time without shoes. Personally I do not mind the bare feet thing as long as the substrate is predictable. Having soft feet from so many years wearing shoes can be a bother when having to walk over rocks or some such and the possibility of stepping on a bottle cap is not that appealing. But bare feet we must, so bare feet we do.

Maldives

More Sharks….

It seems today will be the day of sharks. We again place ourselves along the edge of the thila attach ourselves to the ground and wait. This time the sharks are circling close. We just remain still and the sharks circle and circle. The small, 1½ft to 3ft and the medium size up to 6 or 7ft are close, close enough that Debbie cannot take a picture of the whole shark at once.

Maldives

And MORE Sharks!

The larger ones  are circling below about 10M away. We stayed there a long time. Just as we are about to move on, a miniature eagle ray, about a foot across, sneaks up and forages just behind our fin tips. We have seen quite a few eagle rays over the years but cannot recall seeing one this small. There is not a lot to see on the top of the thila so we drift off and do our safety stop.

MaldivesThe third dive is a recon for our night dive to follow. It is a bit boring but there are a few reef and white tip sharks hanging out. The highlight for me is I spot a moving feather star. It is walking with all of it’s 10 or 20 legs up the coral wall. It must take a huge amount of calculating to coordinate the move of so many appendages.

Debbie does not enjoy the expanse of dark encountered on a night dive, she does consider going tonight but in the end opts to stay with the mother ship. I on the other hand go. Night dives are not my favorite and the one last night with the mantas is a real tough act to follow. In the end I think this dive would rate as number two in the night dive category. It is to the same Maaya Thila we dove this afternoon. As soon as we have descended there are sharks prowling around. They are not scratching their bellies on the bottom either. They are at every level all the way to the top of the reef. The small ones seem to have disappeared and the larger ones have taken over the area. I do see a couple more roving feather stars, a really cute hermit crab, a huge sting ray hovering the sandy bottom, a flowering coral polyp, and a couple of free ranging morays. It was busy night and I have never seen so many neat things on a night dive before.

Dives two and three included the use of the camera. It emerged from its ‘waterproof’ case dry as a bone. We loaded the pictures on to the computer and it seems we are good to go.

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Dive Dive Dive, The Maldives

We are into the swing of sleeping, eating, diving and blogging. Most of our day is taken up diving. Dive briefing, getting ready to dive, boating to the dive site, diving, putting away gear and then boating back to the mother ship. What a life!

Life is peaceful under the water. We drift along, rather slowly, and marvel at the wildlife and plant life. From large Grey Reef Sharks to small red Frog Fish. Soft corals and hard corals and anemones of all colours and shapes.

Life is relaxing on the mother ship. There are 17 other divers, of all nationalities with a common interest in diving. We learn what everyone works at, when they started diving and about the countries where they live. Murray keeps everyone on their toes by switching tables we sit at for meals forcing others to switch also. He is a rascal playing with human nature.

The crew on the mother ship and the dive dhoni are fabulous. They make our lives very easy and enjoyable. Every day there is a new sculpture on our bed made from the top bed sheet, clean towels every day, delicious meals and a very attentive dive boat crew. The captain of the dive boat even let me drive the boat. Only took him up on it for about 30 seconds.

It is day 4 of 7 days of luxury aboard a live-a-board dive safari.

Maldives

Frog Fish

Dive one, the big excitement is a frog fish. Cute little red fella hanging out on the top of a piece for coral. We are the first ones to find him and he is walking his way along the coral. I have seen them before but they are stationary types and this is the first one I have seen on the move, however slow.

Maldives

Octopus

I found an octopus. There are not many here and this one was a bit easy to find as it had not camouflaged itself against the background. We come across a few nudibranches, the dive is colorful peaceful and just a really good dive.

Dive two is on the edge of the atoll and we are warned there may be a current. The idea is to get to the right hand edge of the thila and drift along taking in the scenery as we pass. Maseef jumps in to test the water and he comes out with the words ‘strong current’. He briefs our small crew of 4 to jump in the water with no air in the BC (negative entry) and go down right away. As per instruction no time floating and we flip and kick down as soon as our feet are below the surface. When we reach the floor we grab on and plane out. When we let go we fly over the entire thila in less than 8 mins. Maseef aborts the dive and we surface without even a safety stop. Not needed for 8 minutes of bottom time. Once on board our intrepid master talks to the boat captain and we are deposited farther from the thila this time to redo the dive. Same entry and we are again flying as if we are in space.  The dive is good if not fast but this time at least we are on the side of the thila and can see the sites as they were described in the dive brief. When we get to the lee of the thila we can hold our own and under a ledge a big turtle meanders out and floats along. Just another day in the ocean for him. We had an exciting ride and an unusual dive.

MaldivesDive three, the Fesdu Wreck. A Japanese fishing boat that ran into the reef, backed up and sunk. It is upright and whole and absolutely covered with corals. We spot some hard to find shrimps and some lion fish. Another dive boat arrives and the wreck gets crowded so we take off to the neighbouring thila. The top of the thila is covered with anemones. Clown fish heaven!

Dive four. Voted best of the day, or perhaps the week. A night dive that I would not miss, regardless of the dark. The boat captain has positioned the boat in the lagoon so there is about 40 ft of depth at the back end. Once it starts to turn dark, lights are turned on at the back of the boat and shone in the water. This draws the plankton up, which the mantas feed on. Eventually two mantas arrive and start feeding. We watch them from the back of the boat and they are so very graceful, doing back flips to feed at the surface.

We have a quick dive briefing, gear up and slip quietly into the water. The mantas will get startled if we jump into the water, so we try to slip easily in. We descend and then kneel in a semi-circle just outside the lighted area from the lights on the boat. We have flashlights which we shine up at a 45 degree angle to aid in the drawing out of the plankton. The mantas cruise right over our heads, almost touching us as they feed. They are graceful in their movements. We watch this amazing sight for about 45 minutes and resurface. We thought there were only 5 mantas, but we were told there were actually 10 out there. We are in awe of these fabulous creatures and are so fortunate to have witnessed this.

Maldives

Manta with two Remoras

It was a definitely a day of diving, diving, diving and more diving.

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