Culinary Feasts

We walk all day, up, up and up. Every step burns a calorie or two. Skiing down is also work but not too many calories are used up on the descent. Funny but I don’t think any of us are losing any weight. It may have to do with the food we eat every day.

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Every breakfast is like Sunday brunch at a fancy hotel restaurant. The suppers are all like a meal prepared for a dinner party. Lunch is a little more controlled, we make our own from leftovers from the night before or the ubiquitous PB sandwiches.

Breakfast today is two courses. Two courses? Greek Yogurt mixed with almond milk, chia seeds, vanilla, Agave syrup and small bowls of nuts and blueberries, and then the frittata is extracted from the oven. It is 50 mm thick, filled with ham, spinach, potatoes, and other assorted veggies. This is a typical example of how we start each day.

If we are back at the chalet by 4:30, there on the table is an array of goodies available to take the edge off a day’s skiing and help tide us over until dinner. Cheese and crackers, nachos, or vegetables and humus are typical and somewhat more healthy than the bag of cheesies I would normally suss out.

Dinners this week have ranged from stew to vegetable stir fry on rice with peanut sate sauce, to roast beef with green beans, and roast potatoes and gravy.

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We eat like kings. It is a ‘special meal’ every day. For the most part the meals have been served buffet style which to me is a great asset. I don’t eat a great volume of food and by sizing my own portions I should at least not gain weight and can still enjoy all of the wonderful dishes that are presented to us daily.

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Mistaya’s Lodge

We are miles from nowhere. 2,040 m above sea level. 20 km from the nearest building. It is a ‘back country lodge’. Ha!

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We have all the amenities. Indoor toilets. Yes, I don’t have to go outside, risk my neck trekking up a slippery path, and stand in the night cold to have a pee at night. They are composting toilets and the compost has to heli’ed out but is completely decadent.

There is electricity. A small generator on a mountain stream feeds a bank of batteries and the entire cabin has 12V electricity. The light is LED and it provides more than adequate illumination for any activity we wish to engage in. There is a 110V converter and some of the outlets provide power to charge camera batteries and the ubiquitous computer.

We have as many bedrooms as we need. Separate spaces to sleep and snore and talk in our sleep without disturbing our cabin mates.

The kitchen has a fridge for the things that need to be cold and handy. There is a cold room/pantry for the storage of dry goods but it is cold enough to be fridge for the stuff you do not need often. The freezer is ‘outside’ and the temperature is controlled by the environment but it too is accessible from the interior. The commercial stove/oven is powered by propane and although aging is completely suited to the preparation of gourmet meals prepared nightly by one of our skiing buddies.

There is running water, both cold and hot, throughout. Both indoor washrooms and the kitchen are connected.

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Heat is provided by a single Franklin stove that is kept burning all day. The cabin stays warm all night and is only cool at 6 am when I get up, the fire has burned out and has not been relit yet.

There is a sauna 15 m from the main building that Dave lights every afternoon and when we return from skiing it is warm and ready for use. There is a system for heating water on the stove, we fill a 5 gallon bucket with the heated water, temper it with a bit of cold, carry the bucket to the shower stall, place a small submersible pump into the bucket, turn on the pump, and voila! a real, but somewhat quick, shower.

This is not 5 star accommodation, there is no fancy lobby, no bell boys, no spas, but this is luxury. Near the top of the mountain it is silent but for the wind. There is no ambient light, no urban odors, we do have way more amenities than would be envisioned for a ‘back country lodge’, all we really have to think about is skiing, sleeping and eating.

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Sunny Mistaya

When the sky begins to lighten we realize the sun is going to be visible. It a clear morning except for the clouds attached to the peaks. It is a day to go above treeline. The avalanche hazard is high but we are not going anywhere that might slide.

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The group meeting determined that all who are going out this morning are going to head in the same direction. Mista Vista is the goal. The vision is good when we all get to the top and we can see the entire area available to ski.

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Here we split. J and I go over the end of Mista Vista, a very short, very steep pitch. J watches me ski just to make sure I don’t get into any trouble but I disappear over the crest and he doesn’t really see much of the run. I get to the bottom turn around to watch him and I can’t see him until he gets over the crest. Not exactly protocal but you can only do what you can do.

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It’s noon and time to eat but J and I decide to make a few turns before we take a break. The snow is great, the slope is easy and turns are smooth. I can’t stress enough how big a smile these situations produce. Perma grin. Beyond where we stop is another 100 or so turns but we thought where we were was a nice spot for lunch so we stomped out a small spot and dined with the most spectacular sunny scenery.

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The sun has been out and it has begun to affect the snow. Our next turns are in heavier snow. Still very skiable but more work. Skin up and we go back to the top looking for the lighter snow. J and I yoyo two more runs but since we are on KP tonight we thought it best to head back.

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Took a bit of a wrong turn and missed a few turns on the way out but most of the run back is knee deep.

I have mixed feelings about the sun. It is great to have vision and be able to go above the trees but it does affect the snow.

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Mistaya – Heather Ridge

It just keeps snowing. It is quite a change from last year. The weather sites aren’t saying there is any precip. but we keep getting snowed on.

We are out the door reasonably early today. The up track is snowed in. It means more work but it should also result in better skiing when we turn the skis down. Four of us share the tracking today and it makes for quite a light load really. The skis are penetrating the snow only to about boot top, it doesn’t sound like much but is does take a toll. A few hundred steps and the leader drops to the back, sort of like riding a bicycle on the velodrome. The snow is great and we are looking forward to a good run down.

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Heather Ridge is our destination. It is cloudy, the light is flat, and we are reluctant to venture above treeline. It’s to the last krummholz we go. Skins off, poles shortened, pant zips up, touque on, ski brakes engaged, ski boot to ski mode, point our skis downhill and smiles appear on each of our faces after a turn or two. The snow is great! The area we have chosen to ski today has more than enough room for a dozen or so runs. We hike up and ski down one more time.

When we cross our up track we plunk our butts in the snow for lunch and the sun appears. It remains out till we are about to mount our skis again and the clouds and snow return. Two more runs and the consensus is to return to the lodge. We have 5 more days of skiing left and although it will go fast we have to have enough energy to ski till the end of the week.

Today the snow is boot top to knee depth. Amazing how I get to ski this every time we are out and if I were to frequent resorts it would be only once every two or three years I could ski that much snow. “What a glorious day!”, T says as we slide our way along our early morning up track back to the lodge.

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Mistaya Inbound

Breakfast, pack, and off to the airport. If it is snowing and the visibility is bad we will sit and wait. There is a crew of people that spent yesterday doing just that. Today, even though there is a bit of fog hovering about it looks like we are going. At our appointed 9:30 departure time, the chopper starts up and we’re on our way.

By about 11 am we are all high up in the Rockies, staying at Mistaya Lodge, organizing food for the week and packs to head out skiing. Every lodge has different routines and we are filled in on where the garage goes, what is recycled, dry areas and wet rooms, and assorted other details.

Motivation is ebbing so it is time to make the suggestion and get everyone off their butts. Since I have been here before I have an idea where I want to go. It is easy terrain but it is high and we can see most of the area we are going to ski from there and get our bearing for the week. Jo, Br, and K decide to come with me.

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The up track is hit and miss. We follow it but every once in a while the track is blown in and we have to search. At the top the wind is howling, we turn our skis down. The snow is quite deep but it is dense and we don’t sink too much. Maybe only up to our knees. To the south is another slope we have been eyeing up. The up doesn’t look too bad and there is still lots of light so up we go. It is only the first day so Br doesn’t want to burn out and he waits as Jo and I go up. The light is bad, all I see is white. The skiing is great. 40ish turns in very skiable snow. If it stays like this we are in for a good week. The route back to the lodge is short. I’m tired but not dead. As the sun goes down the snow again starts to fall.

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Tomorrow there is no chopper ride and not nearly as much organization so we will be on the road early.

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Back in Business – Off to the Galapagos Islands

We are back in the travel business, albeit taking truncated trips for a while. Our five week trip to South America that we were planning has been shortened to two weeks in the Galapagos. The dive trip to the islands that inspired Darwin was the impetus for our trip south so with the shortened itinerary it is the spot we will visit.

Here is where we are at.

Many months ago we decided if we are going to dive in the Galapagos the way to do it is on a live-a-board. Doing the research, we found it is better to book early as the trips can fill up as far as a year in advance. There are not many boats plying the waters so the research is reasonably easy. Of the three boats I found all were worth looking into. They all do basically the same thing, diving 3 to 5 dives per day with a couple of land based tours thrown in for diversity, all for about the same price. In the end we chose to dive with Galapagos Sky. We are offered a discount because we dove with one of her sister ships in the Maldives 18 months ago.

I emailed a bunch of our dive acquaintances from around the world and asked if anyone was interested in joining us. One fellow, R, whom we met on San Salvador last July said the islands had long been on his bucket list and this would be a perfect opportunity to put a line through it. We are now a small group of three.

Plane tickets are next. We were in the throes of purchasing tickets when our daughter took ill. As luck would have it we did not buy the tickets we were planning on or we would have had to suck up a few hundred dollars in order to make changes. We do purchase travel cancellation and interruption insurance but we usually wait until the monies we have put out are significant enough and we are no longer willing to absorb those costs.

Once we established that we would be able to slip out of the country for short periods of time we resumed sussing out plane tickets. We now have the long haul flights to and from Quito booked and our trip is taking shape.

It rounds out like this. We have one day in Quito prior to meeting up with the dive representative and flying to San Cristobal, in the Galapagos to board the Sky. I don’t imagine we will ever be in Quito again so we will have to have a good plan, go hard and see how much we can take in, in one day. We are a week on the boat, diving, sleeping and eating. Then at the end of the boat trip we will spend 5 days on two of the Galapagos islands touring the land and hopefully snorkelling with the seals.

We were going to make this trip less structured and not book too much in advance but since the scope has been downsized and the time we have is tight we are going to book the hotels in advance. Last week I researched hotels in Quito, in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal and in Puerto Ayroa on Santa Cruz. I found several that seemed to be the kind of place we would like to stay at. Smaller places that are (I’ll use the word again) funky.

Last night we emailed the hotels with a list of questions and expect to get a bunch of return emails over the next few days. We’ll then determine which hotels we are going to stay at and book them.

We are back in the travel business and we will be off to The Galapagos in a few months.

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Day Two, WAHOO! – January 30, 2015

As I have said…. it is a gamble. Today we win. I’m still flying economy but the hike today resulted in some outstanding skiing. Cirque Peak is the place we are headed. B had skied there a week ago and he said the snow was soft and not yet affected by the warm weather.

The highway is giving us good feedback. It is bare and dry until we are past the Mosquito Creek campsite where we parked yesterday. Beyond, there it is snow packed and ummm…… maybe we are now high enough that it did not get too much above freezing.

There is a car parked at our embarkation point. We pull in behind. Only later did I remember the golden rule, “park in front of any cars already there as they will get hit first”. The temp is cool but not cold as we emerge from our climate control pod. The snow on the side of the road is SNOW, not glazed as we expect and this is at the lowest point of the day.

Lunch View

Lunch View

All the way up things look good. Lunch again on top of the world. Sun is out, wind is light, temp is around freezing and the view is spectacular. Try it sometime and you will  understand.

A few more vertical and it is skins off. As the aspect of the slope changes just a few degrees to the south the snow has a crystally crust. When it changes back north there is 6″ of the fluffiest snow you can imagine. We choose our slope carefully and I have a grin ear to ear after the second turn. We are not much above treeline so there is only 25 or so turns on the open slope and then it is into the trees for the 1,500 ft decent to the bottom.

This area has many glades to ski down so it is WAHOO! all the way to the bottom. Wonderful boot top deep snow . The tree poop (maybe known to you as tree bombs) is interesting to ski over. It has hardened and is impossible to turn in so it is straight over the top and turn the next time your skis hit soft snow. Except for a few short stretches, we find good alleys to ski all the way down.

This is why I bypass a hundred ski lifts on the way to walk up for 4 hours and only one run down. I also buy lottery tickets but my rate of return is much greater skiing and so I will continue to pursue white gold.

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Galapagos, finally

With all that has been happening we have not be posting step by step travel plans for a trip to the Galapagos Islands. Part of the original reasons for starting the blog was to help people figure out how to plan their own trips without having to rely on “professional” to do the work that is easy enough for anyone with the internet.

It all started last June at a bike race. I had volunteered to be a marshal at one of the road intersections of the time trail of a local stage race. I was paired with a paramedic from Fort McMurray. Our conversation covered many subjects but the one that struck home was about her recent trip to the Galapagos. She was gushy about the whole experience. The piece that caught my ear was the snorkeling. She mentioned getting in the water in an area where the baby seals were at play, and being curious beasts the wanted her to join in. They swam close, bumped into her and grabbed her fins. I came home with that story and Debbie said ‘We’re going’. That was that.

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Bad Day Skiing – January 29, 2015

A bad day skiing is better than a good day at work, so they say. West Nile is the destination. It has been warm in the mountains. The snow has been melting and the surface is crusty. We hope that the higher reaches would not be affected by the weather. They were. The skiing at the very top is OK but certainly not what I am used to in the backcountry.

Our day starts with a river crossing. On a usual winter, one has their choice of snow bridges to cross the Bow River. Today the uptrack ends at a bridge consisting of several snow chunks in the middle of the flowing stream. So we follow the edge of the river passed several other collapsed snow bridges. We happen upon an east/west section of water that was slightly shaded from the sun and there looks to be enough ice for us to cross. One at a time we took our chances and we made it to the other side. We found the uptrack on the flipside and up we went. Half way up J and I had a talk about coming down. We both thought it would be “interesting”.

Lunch Spot

Lunch Spot

At the top we sit in the sun and eat lunch. A perfect lunch spot as usual. It is hard to mess up the choice of lunch spots with some of the best scenery in the world as your wall paper. The snow at treeline is skiable and we get in 20 or 30 pretty good turns.

The moment we duck into the trees the snow is so crusty we can not turn our feet. We slide on a shallow traverse and sideslip all the way down. It takes time but it is the safest and most effective way of descending.

 

We arrive back at our snow bridge to find half of it has disappeared. The flowing water of the river has eaten away a good chunk of the upstream ice and we are again concerned about its stability. We cross one at a time and no one gets wet. That crossing may not exist by the end of tomorrow and if anyone gets across in the morning it may be a long hike to find a way back at the end of the day. We aren’t going there.

Snow Bridge

Snow Bridge

The skiing was bad, the walk was OK. It may be that I won’t get good skiing this year. There has been a couple of good days but to catch those, you have to be a mountain resident. Edmonton is too far to head for the hills on the spur of a moment. None of this will deter me and I am off again tomorrow in search of those elusive turns.

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…………hiatus……..

Sorry for the hiatus. One in our family is ill and it is taking a good portion of our time. Our focus is supporting our loved one and so our travel plans are on hold and since travel is what this blog is about it has also been on hold.

Our daughter’s treatments have stabilized and our short term travel exploits have resumed. So, I am off to Canmore, Alberta to go backcountry skiing with my friends from Banff.

Please do not lose faith, posts will be a little hit and miss for the next while but we will do our best to post at least intermittently and keep you up to date on our international travel plans.

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