Cairns to Bowen

We say goodbye to our dive mates and the crew from Spirit of Freedom and start a new phase of our trip. A car is waiting for us at Ace Car Rental in Cairns and the super friendly fellow there fills out all the paperwork while chatting about Japan and Canada.

Off we go, driving on the left. I take the first shift as driver and it takes almost all my concentration to stay in the centre of the lane and not hug the left lane marker.

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Our first stop is Innisfail, not the Alberta one, but the Queensland one. There are Art Deco buildings in town and we want to take a look at them. There is supposed to be a pamphlet explaining them, but everyone seems to be out of stock. The fellow we chat with at the small museum is a perfect town host and we had a good talk about Donald Trump and then Justin Trudeau and the state of the world in general. We walk up and down two streets taking photos of the Art Deco buildings.

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As we drive, we pass by sugar cane fields and banana plantations. The sugar cane looks to be planted in cycles, with one field ready to be harvested next to a newly planted field.

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We chuckle as we compare Australian road signs to Canadian ones. One sign says “Overtaking Lane in 5 km”. Overtaking?? Oh, a passing lane!

As we drive through the numerous towns and small cities we talk about how if we don’t get out of the car and hear someone speaking we could be in Canada. The urban fabric is quite similar.

Murray comments on how many dead furry critters are on the side of the road. He thinks we don’t see as many in Alberta or that Albertan road crews clean them up pretty quickly.

We make a quick bathroom stop in Ayr and find an interesting sight. The road behind the visitor information/bathroom building is lined with motor homes. Apparently it is perfectly legal to park there for a maximum of 48 hours, so folks congregate there to visit and spend a night, or two. Free of charge and easily accessed.

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As we drive south, the landscape changes from sugar cane and bananas to scrub prairie kangaroo territory. We keep looking for kangaroos but only spy horses and cows.

It is getting dark so we decide to stop in Bowen, a quaint town stuck in the 1970 ‘s. We find a room at the Port Denison Motor Inn and supper at a Chinese take out spot. Tomorrow we continue our exploration of the east coast.

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Diving the Great Barrier Reef

Thursday we wake up at Lizard Island. It is change over day. The 3 day guests depart and the 4 day guests embark. We 7 day divers just continue on. To fill the time while the crew cleans the Spirit of Freedom, we go for a walk on the island. A stroll, really, through mangroves, up a small hill for a wide angle view and then down to the Marlin Bar at the 5 star Lizard Island Resort, where it is said that a room costs $1,100 per night per person and Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt spent their honeymoon.

After the new guests board and do all the preliminaries, we motor back to Lighthouse Bommie to see the Minke whales again and for the new arrivals to do their checkout dives. We are in luck this time and see a couple of Minkes close up. On the second dive, we hang out on the mooring line for about 30 minutes with our dive gear on, and the Minkes glide by numerous times, a couple of them quite close. Effortless swimmers and so big. We are in heaven!

Wake up on Friday at the Osprey Reef. Have motored all night for the 120, or so, mile crossing of open water. It is rough at times and sleep felt interrupted by the motion of the boat.

Four dives today, the most spectacular being a shark feeding dive. I never thought I would do one of these, but I find myself sitting on the wall of a coral amphitheatre watching the frenzy. There are about 20 to 25 reef sharks, two large cod fish and numerous small fish fighting for a couple of cod heads. I was actually quite calm as a shark swam right at me and over my head after the frenzy had died down.

Shark feed

On the other dives today Murray and I find numerous nudibranchs and flat worms which we love to discover. They are so colourful and when they do swim they are so graceful.

Nudibranch

Saturday, we wake up on Osprey Reef again for another four dives. We float in the void above a thousand foot drop off. Looking down into the depths, it is just black. Looking up to the sky is all blue water and brilliant. There is something about scuba diving that is peaceful. I could lay in the water and watch the fish for hours if I could.

Saturday night we cross open water again back to the shelter of the Great Barrier Reef. After about 10 minutes, we realize this crossing is not going to be easy and we pop some sea sickness pills. Our bed is laid out so we sleep perpendicular to the length of the boat. Not the best direction to lay when the conditions are rough. A person’s head and feet rock up and down when the boat rocks side to side. Laying parallel is better as the rocking motion is only from the right side to the left side of your body. I insist on sleeping parallel so I tuck myself down at the bottom of the bed and Murray lays down at an angle. The pills take effect and we are asleep way before we usually are. The pills are a success and when we wake up we are in calmer waters.

Flatworm

Our last four dives are wonderful, calm, relaxing and a great way to end our dive trip. We discover many creatures we haven’t seen yet, from nudibranchs to cuttlefish to leafy scorpions to gobies. We are sad it is over, but happy we have seen so much incredible wildlife.

Cuttlefish

Cuttlefish

 

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Minke Whale Day

Today our first two dives are at Lighthouse Bommie on Ribbon Reef #10. It is a known Minke whale stopping point, so there is some anticipation. During the first dive, the whale spotter does spot three Minke whales. By the time Murray and I surface, most of the other divers are snorkelling, all in a row on a line.

Minke whales are shallow swimmers. They do not dive really deep like other whales. They are also very social, and like to investigate snorkelers. They eat krill. Researchers are still trying to understand what brings them to the Great Barrier Reef every year. Perhaps mating, but no conclusive evidence has been found.

Minke whale

Murray and I quickly shed our BCDs, grab snorkels and slide into the water and take our place along the line. Two Minkes glide by followed by a lone one. They are smallish and very sleek. We wait and wait for them to come by again, and nothing happens. By this time I am getting too cold to stay in the water. We reluctantly get out.

Some time later, after we are both warm again, we realize that the boat is staying moored for an extra period of time, so we quickly suit up and slide into the water. No too many folks left in the water now, so the line is quite empty. We do not have to wait too long before a Minke whale swims by. Closer this time than the last ones that we saw. We are happy we got in the water again.

It is a great Minke Whale day.

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4 dive day

6.30 wake up. We’re up anyway but there is a knock on the door. Quick breakfast. Cereal. Wet suits are still wet and there is no warm weather to warm them. Cold and slimmy. Geesh what a way to wake up. Giant stride off the back of the boat, let the diving begin.

The water is warmer than the air. At least it feels that way. Todays first two dive are on a pinnicle. A coral spire about 80 ft tall. We start at 65 ish ft and spiral up and around in a clockwise direction, making 3 or 4 loops until we are at 20 ft hang out until our air is low and we head up to do our safty stop. There are dive masters leading those who wish to follow but they think Debbie and I are experienced enough we can go on our own. There are a few others in the same position. This dive is straight forward and we think we can handle it so off we go. The second dive is on the same sight. We dive our own profile each time and are back on the boat in one piece with more experience behind us.

Australia

Steve’s Bommie the morning dive site is teaming with wild life and every inch of the pinnicle is covered with coral or sponge or something of interest. Two great dives and it is time for lunch.

Australia

I don’t know why but dive boats serve a lot of fish. Jump in the water, decend to 60 ft and view you dinner. Somehow this just doesn’t seem right but we get sushi for lunch anyway.

Dive 3 is also self guided. The Tower of Doom. Not so much a spire this time but more of a coral mesa. We head off counter clockwise this time to throw some variety into the day. The Crown of Thorns starfish has desimated this coral head so the diving is somewhat austere. We’ve dove sites like this before, lots of rock with a bit of coral here and there and a few fish. But there are a few sights of interest. Again we arrive on the boat after executing our dive plan.

Australia

Dive 4 is Gardiner’s Corner. This dive is planned much the same as the Temple of Doom.  The dive briefing indicated the last corner can be confusing so I check with the dive master and find out exactly what to expect. The first part of the dive is pretty much normal. Then it gets a little dicey. We are not sure of the place to turn but I trusted our instructions and we ended up back at the mooring line again. The urgency produced by not knowing for sure if we chose the right route back meant we swam quite quickly and if there was anything to see we went by too quickly. Once we reached the mooring line we spent some time and found a few things at about 20 ft.

Australia

There is a 5th dive but Debbie and I decide to skip it, download photos, fill out the dive log and and write the blog. Dinner is late and I don’t think we will make it much beyond that, the wake up bell is the same time tomorrow.

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Diving with the Spirit of Freedom

We board the Spirit of Freedom today with 24 other divers. This is the first time on a dive boat with more than 16 divers. First impressions-it is crowded, too crowded. More later.

There is a lot of talk when first on a dive boat. There is a boat briefing, a safety briefing, introductions, dive paperwork to fill out, dive gear to set up, lunch, and then two dives, both with briefings. Lots of talk. It is now 6:30 pm and we have just showered and dressed after the second dive. Supper soon.

Like I said, the boat is crowded. The dive deck is very congested. Six divers per side all trying to gear up at the same time. Not much elbow room. Once in the water, the ocean feels crowded. There are only three dive masters/instructors for the 26 people, so if we want to follow one, we are following 4 or 5 divers, which we did as we need to get our bearings. We are used to diving with very few folks so this is quite a change for us.

Okay, now the bright side…..FISH!!!

In the two dives we have seen fish we have never seen before! I do not take my camera down today so I can concentrate on diving, so no photos. Tomorrow, I shoot. We see a HUGE balloon fish, small ray, a couple of turtles, all sorts of unfamiliar coloured fish, both small and large.

Tomorrow we go to where the Minke Whales happen by. Fingers crossed.

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Gold Coast to Cairns

We leave M&D today and fly to Cairns. D is studying for and then writing her end of term exams. We did not want to interfere with her studying, so we planned a scuba dive trip on a live aboard for a week and then we will pick up a rental car and drive from Cairns to Gold Coast, arriving after D has finished her exams. More hugs all around and then we are off.

We are flying Virgin Australia today. First time for a Virgin company flight. Their rules for baggage are quite different, only one carry on bag is allowed with a maximum weight of 7 kg. Each customer is allowed one free piece of checked luggage weighing a maximum of 23 kg. So we have to check our Rollie suitcases as they definitely weigh more than allowed. Murray is concerned about the weight of his backpack, but the agent is not concerned with our knapsacks. We must have made them look really light! The one good thing about limiting carry on bags is that the plane loads more quickly. No one was trying to lift bulky Rollie bags up into the overhead bins. Just slide into a seat and put the bag under the seat in front. Easy.

Virgin sent out an email yesterday about possible bad weather affecting our flight. We were scheduled to leave at 4:50 pm which was in the middle of a possible storm. I phoned Virgin and we switched our flight to a 1:30 pm departure for no charge. I have never had an airline provide this type of service before. I am impressed. Airlines in North America should be doing this during the winter months when storm fronts are known and moving in. We decided to fly earlier to take the stress away from a possible delayed flight. We are boarding the dive live aboard at 11:00 tomorrow and wanted to ensure we are in Cairns to do that.

We are now in Cairns at a backpackers hostel. The room, with our own bathroom, is pretty austere, but it will work for one night. We are sitting in a common area where there is WIFI access and we are by far the oldest folks in here.

It is warmer here than in Gold Coast, but still rainy. A message from M tells us it is really pouring in Gold Coast, so it sounds like it was prudent for us to take an earlier flight from Brisbane. Dodged that one.

We board the dive live aboard at 11:00 and are looking forward to communing with the fish. WIFI may be sketchy when out to sea, so if we do not post daily, we will play catchup once we are within range again.

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Urban Aus

It is a day about town. Gold Coast has grown since I was here last in 1986. It has turned into a real city with big malls, urban sprawl and traffic to rival any western world city.

Pacific Fair,  the ubiquitous mall, you would think you were in Edmonton. Not much different except the names on the storefronts. There are sections of the mall exposed to the elements but 99% is covered and air conditioned.

Gold Coast

Another walk along the beach, the water is omnipresent here and a big part of life. It is “winter” so the beach is not too crowded. There are a few folks out, mostly surfers in wet suit and a few swimmers. There are walkers, runners and cyclists plying the path that we walk. To us flatlanders the sound of the water is ear candy and the vision of the waves rolling up onto the beach is mesmerizing.

Surfboard Inspired bench

Surfboard Inspired bench

It is almost afternoon on Saturday and like any place people are starting to emerge from their hovels and everything is becoming crowded so we head back to M & D’s for lunch. No use slogging about in traffic.

Weather tomorrow looks a little sketchy for tomorrow in Brisbane. Whilst traveling along the road M’s phone rings and Virgin Australia is informing Debbie and me  we may experience some delays in our flight to Cairns. We HAVE to be in Cairns by 11am Monday. No ifs, ands, buts or maybes. They suggest we look at taking an earlier flight, but their phone system is broken and there is a fat chance of getting our times change. Yet after our next adventure we are able to connect and we are now to leave early afternoon which will give us enough time to get to our destination.

kookaburra

Kookaburra

Shortly after lunch we head off to our first ‘tourist destination’, the dam. I think it is called Hinze Dam. Behind the dam is the water destined for the taps of Gold Coast. Not much ground water in this end of the world, but there is lots of rain so they have built a dam to store the rain water and the population centers have a supply of water year round.

Hinze Dam

Impressive structure as is any dam. What I noticed is the downstream side of the dam very closely resembles a Mayan pyramid. More the slope then the texture but that image is what came to my mind.

On tap for this evening’s dinner is M & D’s favorite Australian pizza. As with most foods, pizza has become universal and even though we should be eating kangaroo or koala it is pizza we will eat.

I do like the size of this city as it is quite walkable. You can’t travel on foot everywhere, the city has grown in an organic fashion and has no real centre so the distance could be a factor but the tram or bus are reasonabley reliable. The temperature, the winter temperature, is very pleasant and walking about is very enjoyable. People here don’t seem to realize what they don’t have to drive everywhere thus the traffic congestion. It is not only North America that has a human reprogamming problem.

I think M & D chose a good place to live. The urban environment provides for a comf0rtable living situation yet the stress of a very large city is not there. It is also easy to escape, the hinterland is close so a day in the forest is mind soothing or a morning on the beach body surfing is a short walk away.

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Aus

Arrived and safely too. It was a long haul from Vancouver to Brisbane. 14 hours. It was one of our better Air Canada experiences. The planes were on time, the ground staff was nice and helpful, and the in-flight crew were, to say the least, outstanding. Not able to slag AC for any reason whatsoever this time. RATS!

A few weird things though. On most flights, any free in flight meals have been discontinued but on this flight we were served 3 times??? A midnight dinner, literally midnight, then a couple of hours later, while we are asleep, a sandwich is dropped off on the tray table, and then just before we landed breakfast is brought around. Way more food then necessary. I really only eat breakfast.

Getting into Aus is a little more complicated than we expected for a Commonwealth country. We need a visa??? Then our papers get checked again before we can board the plane that is going to land on Australian soil. We land and patience is a commodity required in vast amounts as we sit at the gate. We have to sit and wait while the plane is sprayed with “non-toxic” insecticide. I think by definition insecticide is toxic, so I don’t really know what they are talking about but it sure makes you feel secure.

Off the plane and it is breeze through immigration and customs. The pre entry rigmarole seems like a scare tactic but I am not the guy that is going to push the envelope and test the system.

We take the AirTrain from the Brisbane airport south to Gold Coast. The train system is a bit screwed up and you would think in an English speaking country it would be easy to navigate the transportation system. First we barely missed the train we needed to take, which was just bad timing. Two different employees gave us two different times for the next train. 15 minutes later a train arrives with ‘Gold Coast’ indicated on the front. The train lady says it is the train we need and it will go all the way to our stop. We board the train. Others headed south also board. Once we are moving an announcement is made informing all passengers that were told the train would go to the Gold Coast that in fact it would not go there and we would have to disembark at Brisbane Central and catch the next train. We did and we arrived at the appointed station. I think our first urban train ride in Kolkuta was easier.

M meets us at Helensvale station and it is good to see him in person. Skype is not too tactile. Debbie hugs M at least four times before we can get into to the car. We are tired as we plunk ourselves down in M & D’s condo and then head out for a walk, the bank, lunch, and the ocean.

Gold coast

I’ve been here before but I don’t remember details, even large ones. The beach is big, real big. We are at the 30.4 km mark and it goes as far as we can see in the opposite direction.

gold Coast

The water looks powerful and inviting. We walk in the surf, the water is quite cold but I think we’ll survive a dip or two.

Gold coast

We’re tired. Only a few hours of sleep in the last 2 days or so. Need to turn our clocks around in 2 days. We’ll be on the dive boat on Monday morning. So, are going to try to stay awake until 9 pm. It is now 5 and 9 looks a mile away.

Hanging out with M for the day, and then D when she gets home from school, was worth the long trip to get here and it is only day one. Looks like the rest of the month is going to be good.

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Almost Ready…..

We are mostly packed, only the last minute stuff to organize. The checked suitcase is packed, zipped closed and ready to go. The “To Do Before Leaving” list has a few items crossed out, but most of the list has to be done on the day we leave. The house is as tidy and clean as it is going to get, short of washing the last dishes and a quick clean of the bathroom.

So, now what? The problem with being too organized and efficient is that we, or mostly I, run out of things to do just prior to a long trip. I don’t want to start a new project to only leave it partially done, and forget where I was by the time we get home.

Sunday I read for what seems like hours, finishing the book I had my nose into. Laundry. There is always some laundry to do.

I have a few days to fill in before we leave and some of it will be taken up with exercise, a hair cut and an hour or so at work to clean up there. There will be some empty hours to fill while I think about seeing M&D, scuba diving, body surfing the waves and exploring new lands.

Let’s see how successful I am at keeping occupied.

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Saba Photos

Peppermint Shrimp, Hermit Crabs and 3 Decorator Crabs

Peppermint Shrimp, Hermit Crabs and 3 Decorator Crabs

Our photos of Saba, both underwater and above the water are now posted!

Coral Banded Shrimp

Coral Banded Shrimp

To view photos, hover over “Photos”, in the main menu bar, until the drop down menu appears. Click on “Saba 2016” in the drop down menu. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show.

Enjoy!

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