Our Friends the Octopi

It is a day of octopi. The waters along Kona seem to team with the creatures as we see these eight legged friends on every dive.

Octopus kona

They are curious and will venture out of their hiding place to take a look at us divers taking a look at them. But if we get too close to some of them, they zip off in their aerodynamic form, changing colour on the run. One actually inked us as, unfortunately we must have scared him.

Octopus kona

Murray and I watch the one in the photo above for about five minutes. He’s content to sit outside on his rock, hang out with us and watch the fish swim by.

Kona octopus

The one above is very well camouflaged and blends into the rock nicely. He also ventured out, even with four, camera wielding, divers laying in a semi circle around him. My picture does not do his colouring justice, whereas Murray’s video shows his wonderful colouring. He is most likely studying us just as we were studying him, or maybe he is just thinking about breakfast.

The depth and the cold finally get to us, so we say goodbye to our friend the Octopus and head back towards the boat.

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Kona Diving

We have the time from the hotel to the dock time to the second. Out to the lot a couple of minutes late and the lineup on the road is horrendous. I don’t get it!!! Kona is a small island and it is major, and I mean major, rush hour. As tourists we would not normally have to deal with rush hour, but we have a date with some fish and the boat leaves at 7:45. The road out front of our place is the main road into town so at the first stop sign we jump up a level thinking we might beat the system. Nope. There is just as long of a line on this road too. So we try the highway, I mean highway and there is a traffic jam on that as well. Who the hell would live here if they want to live in paradise? Paradise does not have traffic jams! We’re  15 mins late. The dive guys are all good. I think they must allow for this as we did not get off the dock until 8:00 yesterday either. Our down to the second just went out the window and tomorrow we leave at 7.15 as we did yesterday and hopefully avoid the cars and rush hour.

When we finally did arrive on board, the guys had an electric vest/rash guard sitting on the camera table and it had Debbie’s name on it. Flossie spent about 30 minutes describing the benefits of staying warm while diving. Debbie resists and dives the first dive without it. 30 minutes in she is cold and on the second dive the vest is firmly in place under her wet suit. What the hell, it’s only money. AND a warm Debbie is a happy Debbie. Good with me.

Kona, hawaii

Octopi are not something we see all the time. They don’t come out in the day and their method of camofloage is really good. Last year we saw a number of them. Flossie seems to have a knack for finding these 8 legged creatures and we find 3 on the first dive. The guys here don’t mind stirring things up a little and one of them squirts ink at us as he leaves. One of them is quite big and a small one jets away, attaches itself to a rock and goes into camo mode, changing color and texture and it sits there trying to hide from me. Had I not followed him to his hide out I would never have seen him.

Kona, hawaii

To and from the dive site, at the entrance to the harbour we motor slowly and watch as a large number of dophins play. Jumping and spinning and generally having a good time. Ah, it’s a dophins life.

Debbie is warm on the second dive until the battery runs out and then the cold water seeps into the suit and starts to cool the core temp. This is 50 mins into the dive we are near the end and she only has to shiver a short while. The guys will check out the batteries to see why they conked out early.

Kona, hawaii

In the 4 hours we are out on the water the traffic has dissipated and we drive back to the hotel in much les time than it took this morning.

 

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We Meet Again

It’s our first day of diving with the Kona Diving Company. We dove with the same crew last year and are looking forward to diving with them again. Laid back, super friendly and fun.

Kona, Hawaii

As we walk onto the boat dock, Alex comes to greet us. He remembers us and we commiserate about the swimming frog fish we found together last year. We dive with Alex as our Dive Master today. Next we reacquaint ourselves with “Shaggy” and “Flossy”. These guys joke and kid with all the divers, but do show that serious side when talking boat safety. Tyler, a dive master in training, is very quiet and takes the good natured ribbing from the experienced dive masters with grace and ease. These fellows have come from all over the US to make Kona their home, either temporarily or permanently.

Kona, Hawaii

We also reacquaintourselves with the underwater wildlife of the Pacific Ocean.

We meet Flame Angelfish who is skittish and doesn’t stay in one spot long enough for me to take a picture. We also meet Whitemouth Moray who Murray trails while filming it’s graceful passage through the water. The large family of Butterflyfish welcome us back to these waters.

The crew on the boat, including the boat captain, plus the underwater life make our first day of diving a fabulous one!

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Kona Again!

I remember travelling to Hawaii as a child and as a teenager with my family. After landing, the airplane door would be opened and this wonderfully flower and ocean scented air would drift into the cabin of the plane, and I would know we had arrived in paradise.

That same sensation came over me as I stepped out of the Westjet plane after landing in Kona yesterday. Murray and I are here for two weeks with our friends D&C, from New York State, to scuba dive and enjoy island life.

Today we sampled that island life by doing some chores in the morning like visiting the dive shop and buying a few groceries. After lunch, we navigated to Kua Beach for a swim. The supermoon is causing the waves to be larger than usual. There were guys out in the water attempting to boogie board these huge waves. I did not go into the water – too big for my liking. Mur walked in, got hit by a wave and lost his goodles and do rag. So much for a decent swim at that beach!

Next stop, Beach 49, within the Mauna Lani Bay development. Stunning black sand beach. Only four people on the beach when we arrive. We dive into the water and frolic like seals, so happy to be in the ocean. We laze in the dappled shade of a tree until we feel the need to return to civilization.

And return we do, with a thud. The traffic jam along the highway into Kailua-Kona is ridiculus for paradise. Apparently it is like this every day. Maybe that is why they are building another’s two lanes for the highway. Hopefully it will be finished soon to alleviate this hiccup in paradise.

Tomorrow  we start scuba diving, so the air blowing around and through us will be ocean air, soothing and salty.

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Photos of Lima, Peru, Bolivia and Chile

Bolivia

A sampling of photos are now posted on the blog of our trip to Peru, Bolivia and Chile.

To view photos, hover over “Photos”, in the main menu bar, until the drop down menu appears. Click on “Peru”, “Bolivia” and “Chili” in the drop down menu. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show.

I cannot seem to put descriptions on each photo, so if you have questions about any of the photos, please send me a note.

Enjoy!

Bolivia

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Homeward

I am sitting in the Calgary airport and we have just passed 24 hours on the road home from Santiago, Chile. It will be about 30 hours by the time we get in our door.

We have an afternoon flight out of Santiago. Can’t sleep in even though we know there is no way to miss our plane. Up at six and go for one more walk around downtown. I am still amazed at how busy this city is.

The ride to the airport takes us through a part of town we did not get to. The area looks like more of an average neighbourhood. The shops that line the street are more everyday kind of shopping. It doesn’t look too sketchy and in fact there are a couple of nicer hotels along the route.

The airport is a breeze. No line up at immigration, no line at security, no assigned gate. The gate appears on the board and when we get there we are the only ones in the lounge.   I guess people don’t pay too much attention to the “arrive 2 hours early” instruction. The next folks to arrive have been traveling all night from Australia. They are a little worse for wear but most have only the leg to Lima to go so the suffering is about to end. A woman, A, sits next to us and we start chatting. It is a small world. This lady is professor of genetic engineering at Griffith University and will most likely teach D, the daughter in law we just visited, in the next couple of years. She was at the front end of what the Aussies call long service leave. A three month paid holiday as a reward for 10 years service. Sounds like a good thing!

Not sure why but we are seated in Premier Economy Class for our flight from Santiago to Lima. Two people per three seats and could be the best meal (a tender steak) I have had on an airplane and really nice, entertaining host. He even magically produces a piece of Lindt’s finest when Debbie makes a joking request for chocolate. This may become a habit!

A major bump in our progress awaits us in Lima. After 6 hours of airport benches. We are informed the flight to Houston will be a little late. The official word is one of the lights on the control panel is malfunctioning. Funny though, the pilots do not arrive at the gate until a 1/2 hour after we are supposed to board. Cynical me, I think the malfunction of which they speak is a human light. Our flight is now 1 hour behind schedule and we have a close connection in Houston. Sleeping on the airplane is never that great but we manage 4 or 5 hours which will be of great benefit in the next two legs of our journey. The pilots gumboot it and we make up all but 10 minutes of the lost time. It is a rush but we make the gate for our flight to Calgary with 6 minutes to spare.

On the flight from Houston to Calgary we are seated next to a most personable fellow. HB is on his way to Banff from Dallas via Houston and Calgary. He is to meet a friend on a later plane and head straight to the mountains. They want to do some hiking. He is young, as shown by my next statement. It is Friday and they are headed back home to work on Monday. 7 hours each way on the plane and 2 hours driving each way for a weekend, we “older folks” don’t do that anymore. We arrive in Calgary and it is snowing, the ground is white. These two fellows are in for a couple of chilly hikes.

I don’t know what is up but the Calgary security folks are being a pain. I get asked twice if the only liquids I have are in the one litre bag and for the first time ever I am asked to put my iPad in a separate basket. Debbie also brought up the fact that the immigration guy’s casual conversation is very much a phishing trip. Without being blunt he is trying to find out why we had REALLY gone to Bolivia. Don’t people travel just to see things anymore? I guess we are sadly behind the times traveling for curiosity when we could find out all we need to know on the net?????

Most of our travel is spent in countries where English is not the main language. For the last 3 weeks it has been Spanish. It is not something that is obvious but the noise all around us is a din, the conversations are a sound but we understand very little and the words are not discernible. I didn’t realize it but it is also the case in the US as everyone is speaking English but with an American accent and we hear it as sort of a drone. This only becomes apparent to me when we board a Canadian plane in Calgary. All of a sudden I hear stories not just from one voice but from all directions and I understand every word that is going on around us. The subtle differences are easy on our ears.

We’re home now. We will pick up our routine and it will soon be as if we have never left.

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Tour Friends

Just when you think you are a world traveller you end up on a tour with 6 others and amongst us all we have most likely been to 90% of the countries on earth. If you pin the places Debbie and I have been to we have covered a good portion of the globe. There are still vast stretches of land without pins but there are also areas where the pins cover the country under them.

We joined up with 6 other folks in Santa Cruz 2 weeks ago to travel across Bolivia. For the most part we were all strangers. Our one common topic is travel. So, our first exchange was to do with travel. This trip involved a lot of car time so we were able to trade stores of our experiences abroad.

There are 4 Brits, which makes sense, Wild Frontiers is a British company. There are 2 1/2 Canadians and 1 1/2 Americans.

Most of us are old, 50 plus, but there is one young lady S, the half Canuck/half Yank. She survived a week with us older types quite well. Working in New York as a bond trader she travels a lot. Managing to visit 62 countries in her 30ish years.

T, the whole American, is a retired lawyer from Houston. Again he has extensive travel experience and has been to unusual destinations like Iran and North Korea.

J, a 79 year old retired electrical engineering tech from the south of England is in amazing shape. He has been around the world and as we end our trip together he is boarding a plane for an extra week on Easter Island.

J, lives in London. She retired from teaching some time ago and still travels a lot. Her stories covered Romania and other eastern block counties and places in Africa like Ethiopia and Morocco.

N, from the English countryside is a pharmacist. She is travelling with her friend, A, who manages a heritage property in the same shire. The ladies travel the globe looking for opportunities to ride horses. Argentina was one of the many destinations they used equine transport to see the country. No riding this time though, in fact I don’t think we saw even one horse.

Our Bolivian tour friends along with Liz, our guide.

Our Bolivian tour friends along with Liz, our guide.

It is experiences like these that bring me back down to earth and realize not only how much of the world I have seen but how much of the world there is yet to experience. We now have one more pin in the map and after talking to these folks several more potential pins press into the foam board.

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The Final Chapter

I love bread. I know it is fattening but it is the food I would choose on the desert island question. Bread and PB with a Coke as my drink of choice. The South Americans need to learn to make bread. They have some interesting bun things but even those could use some work. Their croissants taste like a poor quality Wonder Bread. I thought maybe it was just the bread our first hotel served but after 3 weeks I don’t think I have had one piece of good bread.

Santiago, Chile

Fries, french fries, on the other hand are great. I can take or leave fries at home but here they know how to cook potatoes. I read potatoes are a big part of the Bolivian diet and I have had many different kinds while here, all good.  I think the french fries topped the list. They are crispy on the exterior and soft but not mushy on the inside. Mr. McCain should take a trip here and see how these folks do it.

Santiago

The wind has been calm and I think it does not help the situation but the air here is sure yellow. It is a very large city and the smog is not only visible but I come back to the hotel grimy every night.

I am really impressed with the traffic here. It is easy to understand and works much the same as Edmonton’s. Generally people abide by the law. A red light means stop. Yes drivers push the edge but only into the yellow not the red. They are good to pedestrians. They do not necessarily stop for us, although Debbie and I were waiting at a crosswalk today and a driver halted the car and let us walk. Maybe it was because we are gringos but I don’t think so. When a walk light shows green all of the drivers respect it. Not one car has tried to run us down when we were crossing on the proper signal. When the walk signal is red the peds wait, they will cross if it is clear but they know the cars will not stop and they hustle if they have to.

Santiago, Chile

Our touring today involves the underground, metro here. It is a single ticket purchase gig. Walk up to the window buy a single ride and off we go. You can of course use a pass but we didn’t need one. We step into the crowded train and zoom. What we notice is the speed of the train. I am not sure but I don’t think I have been on a tram that moves that fast between stations and it was super smooth, no clickity, clack of the tracks.

The highlight of the day is the Centro Cultural Pueblito Los Dominicos. A mercado at the end to the subway line. It is one of the best artisan markets I think I have visited. Most of the stuff was truly hand done, in fact a lot of the shops were also the artists workshops, you could see the stuff being produced. I saw none of the “made in China sold everywhere in the world” trinkets.

We head home tomorrow and although I am not likely to get the Edmonton cabbie to stop off so I can get a beaver tail or 2 of naan bread at our local shop down the street, I will be looking forward to the first PB sandwich I will construct when we get there.

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A Day in Santiago, Chile

It is 7:30 pm and I am half laying, half sitting on the bed in our hotel room and my feet are throbbing. Today we walk and stand and walk and then walk some more. I am not cut out for walking, sitting is more my game.  That is why I am on the bed right now.

Museo de Bellas Artes

Museo de Bellas Artes

We start the day walking from our hotel to the Museo National de Bella’s Artes to view contemporary art. We always go to art galleries when in foreign cities. It gives us an idea of the artistic leanings of peoples not Canadian.

Santiago, chile

A walk through Parque Forestall and through a run down area wanting to be chic which brings us to the foot of the hill that is the Parque Metropolitano and the funicular. We splurge to save my feet and ride up to the top and then down again. The views of the city and the far off mountains from the top of the hill are stunning. We sit beneath the statue of the Virgin and study the various buildings.

Santiago, chile

We stop in at the Museo de Artes Visuals where we watch artistic videos that we do not understand. We do come away from the museum with a great idea for displaying our photos, and maybe even our fish videos, on a large screen in our living room.

A quick pit stop at our hotel and on to the Palacio Cousino. We discover another pedestrian street that is a great spot to rest and people watch. We decide that we could pluck almost anyone off a street here and they would look like they belonged in Edmonton. That is the nature of Edmonton – it is an internationally populated city.

Santiago, chile

A friendly gargoyle we find along our way.

We find a bakery on the way back to our hotel and buy one cheese empanada and one beef empanada to share for supper. A bench opposite the Teatro Municipal Santiago is our picnic place.

Walking and standing for about eight hours (Murray estimates about 15 kms) today takes a toll on my feet but the sights are incredible.

Santiago, chile

Graffiti along one avenue.

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Santiago, Chile

Our tour group slowly disintegrates. We leave S and T in San Pedro de Atacama. S is taking a later flight to Santiago and T is staying for a few extra days. We leave J in Calama as he is taking a later flight also. We say good bye to Liz, our wonderful tour guide, in Calama as she will be traveling back to Sucre, Bolivia, where she lives. Five board the flight to Santiago and when we arrive there, we say goodbye to A, N and J, who are traveling to England straight away. So, our group of nine is now only Murray and me and we are now in Santiago, Chile!

Santiago, chile

We notice a few things right away. There are TONS of people here! The population is 7 million, so I guess the wide sidewalks should be crowded.

Santiago, chile

We saw very few smokers in Boliva. Here there are many smokers. Wonder why?

There is a definite police presence in the plazas downtown. Police on foot, police on horseback and police with dogs. They seem to be in place to discourage the pick pockets and petty thieves. They chat with folks who stop and ask questions, so they are friendly, if not the dogs, who look ready to pounce on someone.

Santiago, chile

In our wandering this afternoon, we discover quite a few pedestrian only streets. The streets are filled with stores, from clothes to shoes to electronics, and the walkways are filled with people, shopping, going for lunch or just out for a stroll.

Santiago, chile

Estacion Mapocho

The gem we find today is the Estacion Mapocho, a train station built in 1912 and decommissioned in 1987. It was designed by Jecquier, a Chilean architect living in France and has that French feeling as soon as we step in the door. It is a grand station with vaulted ceilings in the foyer. It is being used as an cultural center now with a number of restaurants inside. We take a pause to sit on a 100 year old bench and to ponder the grandeur of this structure.

Santiago, chile

Estacion Mapocho

I think Santiago will be more to our tastes than San Pedro de Atacama. Just the architecture lifts our spirits. Two full days here to come, and I wonder what other gems we might discover.

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