Honiara, Solomon Islands

Honiara. Solomon Islands. It’s hot here. Boy, it’s hot! The heat hits me in the face as soon as I step out of the airplane and onto the tarmac. It’s intense.

The drive into town from the airport reminds me of India, or the Andaman Islands. Garbage, standing water, street market stalls, too much traffic, dusty roads. First Impressions, I am not so sure about Honiara and its surroundings. 

Our driver finds our lodgings, the Rekona Flourish Lodge, a guest house by definition. It is simple, plain but has a very nice lady greeting us. I am still not completely sold yet. Maybe I am just too hot.

We shed our travel clothes for shorts and shirts, find our hats, hide our valuables, ask a whole lot of questions and off we go for a quick explore to find Coke, ideas for supper and to scope out the town. We had been warned that Honiara is unsafe, but the Bilikiki cruise staff said no worries and the lady here says no worries, so we are not worried. Off we go. We wander down the main street with no issues at all. We definitely stand out with our wide brimmed hats and white skin. I look around and notice right away how the women carry their purses or bags – around their necks or across their bodies with the again front. I quickly change my little pack to across my body hanging in front. Just like a local now!

There is velvety red betel nut juice splattering the sidewalks and pavement with every step we take. Many many men walking by have red mouths. Vendors are not allowed to sell it on the street, so they sit just off the roads, in a hut or stall, plying their trade. I wonder how much the betel nut affects productivity here.

The roads are in poor condition. Gravel and pavement create dust with every passing vehicle. There is road construction between the airport and the center of town. Large crews with half the crew working diligently and half seemingly supervising. It’s the same all around the world, even in Canada. Murray spots a fellow with a small trowel grouting between precast concrete block pieces to lay in the hole in the road.

Murray and I seem to be the only tourists out there. We run into one other white person on our walk. They are probably all hiding in the three or four luxury type hotel complexes afraid to step out of their resort. Right about now, I could go for a dip in the pool that they most likely have.

We have already noticed how friendly the people of the Solomon Islands are. They are rather shy also. Maybe it is because we are forcing them to use their English. We chatted with a guy from PNG (Puapa New Guinea) on the road in front of our lodge. Was impressed we came all the way from Canada and agreed with us it was very hot, as he is from the highlands of PNG. Meeting people such as the folks we have met In Fiji and here are what makes a trip so interesting.

I am now fed and am cooling off. My attitude is changing about Honiara and, although it is rougher than the places we have been to lately, it’s okay in my books.

Tomorrow we have some time to explore the area further and then onto our liveaboard for more luxury.

Posted in Solomon Islands | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Sliding into the Darkness

Tomorrow morning we are boarding a plane for the Solomon Islands. The internet will be sketchy at best. The next day we board the live a board boat and there is NO internet at all. So, those ten days we will not have any communication what-so-ever and the rest of the time it will be intermittent. For family this will mean no news is good news as far as our end. We’ll touch down when we can an will probably post a couple of posts a day when ever we have access.

Ciao for now

Posted in Solomon Islands | Leave a comment

More Specific Gold Coast Observations

Greenspace is important here in the Gold Coast, and if I remember correctly, all over Australia. The other place I remember very clearly is Brisbane and it also has a lot of parks. In the Gold Coast you can’t drive for 5 minutes without going past another park or beach or sports field. They all seem to be busy, not just on weekends but all week and a good part of the day. Today we were at the beach near the aquatic center where there is a big kids playground/park and it is packed. We get in the water to swim laps and there were a 1/2 dozen other folks in the water swimming or wading as well. This is on a Friday morning.

Yesterday I entered a place I previously had not even considered going into before – a vegan restaurant. M & D make the choice of establishments we are going to frequent for lunch and upon arrival the waitress says ‘everything on the menu is vegan’. There are a couple of things that look edible so I order gnocchi with some sort of fake cheese sauce. Except for the pansies, yes flowers, it tastes quite good. What I don’t get is why they call it cheese sauce when it is not cheese. The folks that eat no animal products are inventive enough to make something that resembles cheese, why not be inventive and name it something else rather than the non vegan food it simulates? Are they just unable to let go of human’s past indiscretions?

Tamborine National Park, Australia

Fashion here is quite odd. Middle of the week on a busy shopping street at mid day you can observe an older man in the grubbiest casual wear, a young women in a long flowing black shear evening dress and spiked heals, an older lady with stick legs in a skirt so short I could tell she at least wore underwear, a guy with only a pair of swim shorts, no shirt, and bare feet, people dressed for business, both formal and casual and just about anything you can imagine. I usually don’t give two hoots about what people wear but I find the diversity here does capture my attention.

The tourist destination of the Gold Coast does not recycle very well, and it could just be Australia in general, don’t know for sure but here the recycle system is limited and very few residents seem to participate. They have however instituted a campaign to limit the purchase of bottled water, thereby minimizing the number of plastic bottles entering the post use universe. They have water fountains everywhere and the fountains all have a tap water to refill reusable bottles. The posters on the fountains and elsewhere state “Be Smart, Choose Tap”. I guess Pepsi and Coke don’t have enough pull or money to persuade the politicians here to get rid of that particular saying.

Tamborine National Park, Australia

For a small place, the traffic here is quite congested. I think it is because the city is only a few kilometers wide and stretches along the shoreline for a much greater distance. That means all of the cars ply the same few roads that parallel the beach and only branch off east or west when they are near their destination.

Tamborine National Park, Australia

Today is our last swim for a while. Yesterday, we did 10 laps of the roped off swimming area and guessed it was more than 2000M. We have a good guess that we are headed to the hinterland today, which means a long hike so we cut our distance to about 1200M. Then an hour or so in the car to Tamborine NP. The hike is quite serene not many people, quiet, and dark. Our goal is a waterfall partway around a loop trail. Really the waterfall is quite unspectacular, the water levels are low in the fall but the walk is great. The high canopy lets in streams of sunlight accenting the fauna that comprises the lower canopy. Quite a stunning effect.

This part of Australia would be easy to live in. The city is not too big, weather is nice and the ocean is out the front door. There is little differentiation between seasons. Which is a bit of a bother but the only real draw back as I see it is it does not snow.

Zoom, next stop the Solomon Islands.

 

 

 

Posted in Australia | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

The Beach

It is a beach morning! After dropping D off at the Robina Hospital where she will help with a clinic, Murray, M and I find our way to Kirra Beach down at Coolangatta. We park the car and walk towards Snapper Rocks, one of the best surfing destinations in the world. There are surfers plying the curls, which are not too big today.

Snapper Rocks, Coolangatta

A short walk later we are shedding our shorts and T-shirts to tackle the  smaller waves on the beach. The water is cool but not icy and amazingly clear. There are even a few fish under the surface. The sand is smooth and gentle on our feet. The waves, however, are a little intimidating for this prairie girl. M, having played this game for a couple of years now, handily body surfs even the larger waves. I just bob over them like a cork or dive under them like a seal.

The beach along this coast is about 30 km long in a huge arc, but it only becomes reality when I can look across the water and see the towers at Surfers Paradise projecting into the sky.

Coolangatta

It was a perfect morning on the beach, walking and playing. Time to pick D up at the hospital and head back to Southport.

Coolangatta

Posted in Australia | Tagged | Leave a comment

Australia Observations 2 (The Sequel)

The Gold Coast is the part of the country everyone comes to for a beach vacation. Surfer’s Paradise has long been the summer mecca for Australians and foreigners. I was here in 1986 and although it was not as developed as it is now, it was still busy. The thing that hasn’t changed too much is the beach. I remember this 50M wide beach that literally went on for miles, so far in each direction you could not see the end and it was definitely too far to walk. Today our adventure consists of taking the tram to Surfer’s and walking the 5kms back to the apartment.

It is a beautiful day for a walk. The sky is clear, the sun is not too intense and there is a bit of a breeze to keep things cool. This time of year, fall, and the time of day, 10am, we are here and the crowds are minimal. All the shops are opening up but the walk down the side walk is casual. No ducking and weaving.

We stop occasionally to window shop and see what is up. There is a real estate office with pics of some super nice properties and they are not that expensive. A 2100 sq ft house is about $600,000Aus. A house of that type would cost the same in Edmonton and we don’t have a world class beach in the area.

Southport, australia

M and Debbie walking the beach earlier in the week.

My guess is there would be close to 365 bike rideable days here. Maybe a few of the torrential downpours would be a deterrent, and I am sure it would not be great on a +35C day but other than that bike riding would, in my opinion, be preferable to car transport. Very few folks ride here. I find that odd. There are bike lanes on every major street and plenty of side streets to stay safe but hardly any bikes. The other weird thing, and of interest to me because Edmonton just spent copious amounts of money on bike lanes, is the lanes here are not used. The only people I have seen in the bike lanes are the ones that know how to ride a bike and would most likely would be on the road anyway. Everyone else, including the riders of electric bikes and electric scooters, ride on the sidewalks. That being the case, I think the bike lanes are useless and a great waste of money.

Of the people I have seen on bikes a good percentage of the the bikes are electric. Not quite half but close. Good transport but not much on the fitness part. But as I mentioned they ride these things on the sidewalks and at speed. I find it rather dangerous, maybe there have not been enough collisions to make it much of a big deal???

gold coast Sunday market

The Sunday Market

Other than a short walk on the beach the other day, today was our first “beach day” since we got here. Weather has been rather crappy for that so we have found other entertainment. Today the sun was out and even though the wind on the beach was a bit excessive, when we laid down we had the beginnings of a dune build up on our windward side, it was a good day to do it. The waves were big and the rip was quite strong, but the water was really warm and amazingly clear. Debbie and I have been swimming the estuary and the water is cold and murky, the ocean side is totally different and if not for the huge waves it would be good to swim in the ocean. I did swim a few strokes into the rip, which was running parallel to the beach, and made zero progress.

One of the tourist businesses that is running strong and by our calculations making a pit full of money is the helicopter ride along the beach. There is a non stop stream of heli’s plying the air from the harbour south along the beach and a constant line of Asian tourists lined up for the next ride. Every heli has a full load, the round trip takes about 20 mins. (our estimate), there are 5 or 6 heli’s flying in rotation, as one takes off another lands, and they do this 10 hours a day, 7 days a week. At $200 per rider they are making a killing.

The last odd ball piece of info has nothing at all to do with the tourist industry but is another observation of Aussie oddness. I go into a store and see something, today it was a specifically sized package of rosemary, I pick it up wanting to know the price. Nada, no price is on the tag or on the bin it came from. Nor are there prices on any of the other adjacent items. This is not always the case, it is just that it is not unusual. I’m guessing the idea is that it is either so expensive the prices is not justifiable or that anyone wanting rosemary is going to buy it anyway. Can’t say really, but I ask M and he says it is just one of the things about Aus that is a bit strange.

One of the hardest things to get used to is to look right first before crossing the road. Debbie and I have been taking care of each other and have called out more than once when the head of the other is looking left and a car or bike or bus or tram is approaching on the right. I have taken to looking both ways and still mess up.

Gold Coast

Australia is an extremely easy place to travel in, but there are still things that shake up ones complacency. One of the reasons for travel is to make sure you realize the systems within which you live are not the only ones and not necessarily the correct ones. Every time you experience a different way of doing something, you should reflect on the way you have learned it and try to adjust your thoughts and actions to suit the best aspect of all the ways you have experienced. This is what travel is all about.

Posted in Australia | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Wallabies and a Koala

Murray, M and I walk through the Coombabah Lakelands Conservation Area this afternoon for some exercise and fresh air since it is too windy to go to the beach.

Almost immediately we see wallabies. They are smaller than kangaroos, but look like them. Moms were carrying their young. This youngster had his feet sticking out and looked all scrunched up. I wonder if he is comfortable.

Wallaby

We meet some folks and they tell us they spotted two koalas in some trees down the path. We are given directions and after some hunting and lots of looking up, we spy this fellow snoozing. We could not locate his friend.

Koala

 

We wander the paths and marvel at the lush, green vegetation and all the wallabies, who seem mostly unafraid of us. I can’t help chuckling and saying “boing” “boing” each time one hops by.

Wallabies

Posted in Australia | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Aus Observations

I have travelled to both New Zealand and Australia. When people ask the difference I tell them NZ is more like Canada and Australia is closer to the US. It is maybe somewhere between the US and Canada. Since M & D moved to Australia we have been here a few more times I expected to, so I have had a bit more exposure and observed and noted a few oddities.

Things like the signage. “Illegal dumping prohibited”, seems a waste of paint, if the dumping is illegal it is by definition prohibited. Just sayin’.

It has taken a while, and meeting quite a few Australian couples, but Aussy men treat their wives quite different then we do in Canada. It seems to me that the idea of wife as a chattel has never left this country. They treat women in rather a demeaning fashion. It seems to work with them but I cringe when I notice it.

They have ‘City Bike’ here in the Gold Coast. The system seems odd to me. Most cities have designated pick up and drop off racks for their city bikes. Payment systems differ but if you have a bike you can use it all you want but you have to deposit it at a rack. Here the bikes have GPS chips and can be hired by swiping a UPC code with your cell phone. The bikes are scattered all over the city at random locations. If you are finished riding, you get off, scan the UPC and leave the bike where ever on a street corner or on someone’s front lawn or the middle of a park or at the entrance to a shopping mall. The scanning of the UPC activates (or inactivates) a u-lock on the back tire and where you drop the bike is where it sits until some walks by and wants to ride somewhere. Very weird.

Today I ordered a mushroom burger for lunch and odd as this might seem I got a burger of mushrooms. Not a meat patty with mushrooms on it, the burger was some sort of deep fried batter that contained the sliced mushrooms and melted cheese. There was no meat involved. Should have expected that I guess, but I had the North American model in mind and it was a bit of a disappointment. It was edible though.

Australians are know for their beer drinking but I did not realize they were such gamblers. Driving about Edmonton I am always a bit amazed at how many casinos and such there are, wondering how many people must go there and piss away copious amounts of cash. Here there are gambling opportunities at every street corner. Pokies (VLT’s), off track betting and the like everywhere. I guess Australians make too much money.

Alcohol is readily available at corner stores, burger joints, and other establishments that you could not get it in Canada. Maybe contributes or services Australia’s love of booze, not sure which, but it is things like this is why I say it is more like the US.

Australia is an easy place to travel even though some things amaze me.

Posted in Australia | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Southport, Queensland, Australia

We are back in the city. Traffic. Tall buildings. Huge grocery stores. People. M&D, our kids. Wearing street clothes and deodorant.

Our flight from Fiji to Brisbane was very comfortable in Business Class. We thank the Fijian Gods. We rode the train from the airport to Helensvale and then the G:link tram to the Southport South station just around the corner from our Airbnb apartment and about five blocks from the kids’ condo.

The apartment is very small, slightly used but comfy enough for our 10 days here. Our biggest challenge was to unpack all our stuff and where to store it. We bought some groceries and are able to make breakfast and lunch.

We are spending time mostly with M as D is doing her surgery rotation, reviewing cases and writing a medical ethics paper. We chat over supper then she disappears into the study to work. We are enjoying the bits of time spent with D, learning about her days in the hospital. M, Murray and I played a board game called Pandemic this evening. It is a cooperative game and is very well thought out.

We spent this afternoon solving diving gear issues. We solved Murray’s BCD problem and know how we are going to solve my fin issue, just have to go back to one of the dive shops to buy some straps.

We swam today in the ocean in a netted off area for swimmers just near the Aquatic Centre. We think we swam about 1200 meters. It was a great swim and neither of us feel tired from it. The driving around to dive shops is exhausting though.

You may not hear from us everyday as life here isn’t terribly exciting or different. Goodnight!

Posted in Australia | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Fiji, Final Thoughts

While at the Paradise Taveuni, we managed a couple of open water swims. See, we signed up for Kelowna’s Swim Across the Lake in July, so we are trying to get in as many longish swims as we can. Murray figures we swam about a kilometre. I swam and looked at the fish as I went, so it was fun.

When guests depart from the Paradise, about 15 employees gather to sing a farewell song. A fellow plays guitar and there are male and female singers. Many of the singers were not known to me, perhaps kitchen staff. Some of the servers gave me big hugs after to say good bye. They are not professional singers and they were very good singing harmony and the deeper voiced guys were singing echo to the higher pitched ladies. It was very effective.

We met many new diver friends at the Paradise. It is a more close knit atmosphere than the Volivoli, I think. Perhaps the Volivoli had too many big dive groups staying there while we were there and that makes it harder to strike up conversation. At the Paradise they set dinner up at ‘the long table’ three times in a week and it more or less forces conversation. The morning after such a dinner you greet the people you sat with as friends.

We met divers from Virginia, close to DC, Belgium, near Sydney, Adelaide and New Zealand. Spent time dining and chatting. All very enjoyable and who knows, we may meet up with them again somewhere.

Today was a hot one. Debbie reads on the internet it was 30C but with the humidity it ‘feels like 40C’. It felt like 40C.

We asked at the hotel desk how to grab a local bus to get downtown. It is about 4 km and with the temp where it is we don’t really want to walk. Armed with the information passed on we are waiting at the bus stop and I strike up a conversation with a young lady also waiting for the bus. She tells us we can flag a mini bus and they will take us the to the city center for a few cents more. We are talking $1 Figian vs 70 cents. In the end we get into a cab with the lady and we each pay $1 and get a taxi ride. The taxis are constantly pulling over and asking if we need a ride somewhere and I just shoo them away but when at a bus stop to return to the hotel one of the fellas that I had shooed away earlier stops to see if he can give us a ride. I told him we got a ride for $1 each on the way into town. He wanted $5 I turned my back and walked back towards the bus stop. He caved and we got a ride for $2. He turned on his meter to show me the ride was actually a $5.70 ride but begrudgingly accepted the $2 we had agreed on at the start of the ride.

Nadi, Fiji

The main street of Nadi, Fiji

The main street is the only street the tourists walk on. It has a variety of shops that sell everything from spare car tire to sexy lingerie. In front of every tourist shop there is a tout asking you to stop in at their shop and see what we absolutely need to take home. They are friendly enough and not really pushy but they are touts none the less and a bit annoying. As soon as we walk up one of the side streets and along the next block that parallels the main street the tourist shops disappear and the touts along with them. I still find it amazing that visitors to a country only travel where all the other visitors travel. They refrain from taking a short step off that trail and experiencing a bit of the real country. Debbie and I then wandered into the ‘hood’ for a ways just to get a better perspective.

Nadi, Fiji

The Market

The next place we wander through is the market. A really nice market at that. Clean, well organized, and stocked with all the vegetables and fruit you can imagine. There is no meat section which is common in most open air markets we have visited. The fresh meat section is usually quite ‘gross’ and smelly so I did not miss it. The largest section of the market was dedicated to kava. A mildly intoxicating drink everyone in Fiji partakes in. It is in fact a custom to welcome all visitors with a kava ceremony. There is a ceremony for the preparation of the drink, it is then placed in a communal coconut shell cup and it is passed from person to person. I tried the drink when I was in Fiji 30 years ago. It was god bloody awful. I have managed to duck out of two different offers to sit and try it again and I will try my damnedest to continue ducking. But, by the number of stalls selling kava root it is a main stay in Fiji and the tradition is not going to end any time soon.

Cassava and taro

Cassava and Taro

The bus station and mini bus station are hives of activity. As with most places in the world with similar stature as Fiji the buses gather at one central spot. The people come from shopping or whatever engages them in the city, find the bus headed home and board it. These places are busy. Unless it is a express bus it will stop anywhere along the route until it reaches its final destination. The buses are quite full when they leave the central station. There are always buses coming and going so you have to keep your head up as you cross the road and you have to keep you spidey sense tingling as there as a lot of seedy types hanging about.

There were very long lines at the Vodaphone stores today. Every Fijian received a letter in the mail offering a $50 refill on their bus cards. Sort of like a tax refund but instead they are upping the ante to use public transportation, maybe getting a few folks to leave their car at home. Although the traffic is not very bad here.

Catching an early flight tomorrow so not likely to see too much more of this land but it is an interesting place, far more interesting than the confines of the resorts and probably deserves a little more time spent.

Posted in Fiji | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Fijian Gods are at it again…..Wait for It

It’s our last dive in Fiji, I giant stride into the water off the back of the boat and a piece breaks off my fin. The fin still works for now, but we now have another errand to run in Australia. Can’t arrive on our live a board in the Solomon Islands with an iffy fin. Another equipment failure caused, perhaps, by the Fijian Gods.

We are now in Nadi, sitting in our hotel room and agree that now that we are getting close to leaving Fiji, the Gods are using their influences to make sure we depart. Read on.

Before we left Edmonton, we got an email from Fiji Airways saying that we could bid to sit in Business Class on our flight from Honolulu to Fiji and then from Fiji to Brisbane. We researched, discussed, thought and then said “What do we have to loose!”, so we put in a couple of real low ball bids. We didn’t get the first flight, but two days ago we got an email from Fiji Airways saying that our bid was accepted and we will be flying Business Class to Brisbane. And for an extra $270 US total for the two of us. A pretty good deal.

International Date Line in Fiji

At the Paradise Taveuni Resort we meet an Australian couple that we chat with a lot and they are flying on the same flight as us from Taveuni to Nadi. We are shuttled to the airport together, with a quick stop at the International Date Line where we time travel from yesterday to today and back again.

International Date Line in Fiji

We arrive at the minuscule airport, check in, get bags and each of us, together with our carryons weighed and then sit chatting to a couple of old locals who have brought a packaged up live pig there destined for a birthday party. Poor pig!

The inbound plane arrives and unloads. Next thing we know a fellow is asking our friends and us our names and says to me “You can board now.” The four of us get up and start to gather up our carryons when our friends are told it is just Murray and me going. What? We quickly say goodbye, and board wondering what is going on, but are too rushed to ask any questions. We are the only ones on the flight! The Fijian Gods have sent a private plane for us! They know we are headed out of the country and want to expedite the process.

We are not sure what is going on but we have 20 more hours on Fijian soil to see if the Gods throw anything else at us.

Posted in Fiji | Tagged , | Leave a comment