First Day in Santa Clara, Cuba

One of the first things I notice as we walk through Santa Clara is that everyone is wearing a mask. A COVID mask that is. Everyone. And we are outside headed towards the central plaza. No one seems to be complaining. There are a few, very few, with the mask not covering their nose. Maybe this is why Cuba hasn’t had as bad a time as the rest of the world. Communism, one for all and all for one? As recommended by Omelio, we are also wearing our masks.

Santa Clara, Cuba

As we head away from the center toward the Che memorial the next thing that strikes me is the noise. The streets are narrow and almost all of the buildings are concrete and the ambient noise reverberates and we can hardly hear what each other is saying.

I don’t know if there is a crew that picks up the trash on the street, if people don’t throw trash on the street or if there is not enough trash generated to cause a mess but the streets are very clean. Even the empty lots and waterways are garbage free.

Santa Clara, Cuba

Communism again. We are out an around on a Friday. There seem to be a lot more people on the street that we see working. That said there are 5 people per station at the Che museum, where in Canada there would be one. Mostly they looked pretty bored but they did jump to when we approach.

The entire city could use a coat of paint. Don’t know whether this is because there is little paint to be had or because people have other priorities to spend their money on, but peeling paint seems to be the preferred aesthetic. Debbie came up with the idea that each person should get an allotment of paint each year to beautify their surroundings.

Santa Clara, Cuba

I don’t know what it is with Spanish people and the volume of the TV but whenever a TV is on the entire block know what show is playing and what action is taking place.

This is not a complaint. In fact, I wish it were true for more places in the world. We would be force to learn the language of the host country and maybe expand our brains a little but very few people speak English. The people involved with tourists speak enough to communicate but still struggle with some words. Even the kids, a usual source of English in a foreign country only speak a few words. I did run into one young fellow today that spoke impeccable English but his is definitely the exception.

Santa Clara, Cuba

Things are very cheap in Cuba. We have travelled in countries that are supposed to be inexpensive, especially when you live somewhat like the locals but we spent less than $30US for the entire day, room, food, entertainment (as it was). I don’t ever remember spending that little and I have traveled extensively for 35 years.

The ‘irregular’ (black) market is the way the financial dealings work here. If you go by the legal system and exchange your foreign currency at the bank you will find things 4 times more expensive. If you trade it on the street you can live like a king. All the locals do that anyway. And by the by, contrary to every internet article I read the US dollar is not only accepted here but preferred. Euros are supposedly good as well but I cannot speak to that because I did not bring any. Canadian dollars are OK but that is all.  

When preparing for this trip I read so much conflicting and confusing information I was quite apprehensive to set foot in this country but after one day here it is pretty much like most places we go and all my angst disappeared. A few more days of this and we should know most of the ropes.

Che Guevara Museum, Santa Clara, Cuba

Note from Debbie – In 2016, while in Bolivia, we spent a few days following the path Che Guevera took in his failed revolution attempt. We saw where he was shot, held, died and where his body lay. It seemed appropriate that we visit the final resting place of Che. In Santa Clara, there is a huge statue, memorial and museum dedicated to him. So our story of Che is complete now.

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Cuba Bound

We are off on our trip to Cuba to go scuba diving that got rescheduled from the spring of 2020. The flight from Edmonton to Toronto was uneventful. Overnighted in Toronto at the Sheraton Gateway Hotel in Terminal 3. Staying in hotels attached to airports is THE WAY to travel, setting aside the cost, of course. No shuttles. No stress! Just walk (or sometimes take an airport tram) to the hotel.

Today’s flight from Toronto to Santa Clara, the closest airport to the port where our dive liveaboard leaves from, started out uneventful until one of the flight attendants made this announcement, “If there are any medical professionals on board, please make yourself known to the flight crew.” Oh boy. We may be landing in the US somewhere. Luckily the issue was resolved without us having to touch down. There were no more surprises.

We knew we had to bargain with the taxi driver and Murray did a good job. They agreed on $25 Cdn to take us to our small local hotel (hostal). Guy drove like a crazy person as he probably wanted to rush back to the airport to pick up another fare. After we got to the hostal, Murray gave him the $25 and he, of course, said “No, $30!”. Murray said, “No, $25!” We had already made our way into the hostal entrance, so Murray just shut the door on him! That was a smooth move Mur! The owner of the hostal then tells us he hired the same taxi driver to take some guests somewhere and to make a stop along the way, and the fellow took them but wouldn’t make the stop, so he has had trouble with the him too!

The hostal we are staying at is the Casa Mercy Modern, a sister hostal to the Casa Mercy 1938. The Modern is run by two lovely people, Omelio and Mercy. The 1938 is run by their daughter Isel.If you would like to book directly with them, they can be contacted through facebook. It is very B&B like. There are two rooms on the second floor, along with two bathrooms and a roof top patio. Omelio and Mercy live downstairs, where breakfast will be served.

Sitting on the bed typing, I hear the traffic going by outside. Motorcycles, cars, pedestrians and horse drawn carriages! Horses!

Tomorrow we will go exploring!

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Kona Olio

Random thoughts.

We have a new favourite sushi restaurant in Kailua-Kona. It is called Shimaichi Sushi Kona and is on Hualalai Rd and Kuakini Hwy. Great sushi and super friendly staff. Go early though as they close at about 5:30 so the owner/sushi chef can spend time with his family.

Nudibranch
Trembling Nudibranch

If you plan to scuba dive while visiting the Big Island, definitely use Kona Diving Company. They are simply the best dive operation that we have come across. The staff is very attentive and knowledgeable and they love what they do.

The water here has been cold, at least for me. The coldest temperature was 76 F, or 25 C. To keep me warm for 60 to 70 minutes underwater, I wore a heated shirt, 3 mm hoodie, 5 mm full wetsuit and to top it off a 5 mm shorty wetsuit. I felt like a rubber band once I got all that on, and I had to add extra weight to keep all that neoprene down. But, at least I was warm!

Painted Frogfish
Painted Frogfish

We stayed at the Kona Tiki Hotel, a small 1960’s era hotel right on the water. We have gone to sleep every night listening to the waves crashing on the rocks. It’s very soothing. It will be so quiet once we get home, we probably won’t be able to fall asleep!

I’m not ready to go home yet. But, our plane tickets say tomorrow is the day, so I guess we have to go. Goodbye perpetual summer, hello winter. See you on the other side.

nudibranch
Red Dot Nudibranch
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Fish of the Day – Yellow Spotted Scorpionfish

Yellow Spotted Leaf Scorpionfish

The little fellow on the left of the photo is a Yellow Spotted Scorpionfish. They always seem to hide in coral heads and are very hard to photograph. There were four of these guys in the same coral head. They have poisonous spines on their back that they raise if they are in danger.

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Creature of the Day – Octopus

One of our favourite creatures is the octopus. Octopi are fascinating to watch, especially when they change colour. The brown and white spotted octopus in the photo below is right in the centre of the photo. If the photo is enlarged, the eye and head can be seen on this fellow.

Octopus
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Fish of the Day – Pyramid Butterflyfish

Pyramid Butterflyfish

The Pyramid Butterflyfish is found mostly in schools. Their colouring leaves no doubt as to where the name came from. They like the outer reef slopes, or drop off, where they can swim into open water to find food, which is plankton.

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Attack of the Killer TURTLE!

A long time ago, when we were scuba diving in Grand Turk, a great dive master told me that when I encounter turtles, as long as I stayed at the turtle’s level or below, the turtle will not see me as a threat. I have been living by this rule since then and have had many wonderful turtle experiences. The turtle would swim along leisurely with me finning to stay beside him, shooting photos, the turtle unconcerned with my presence.

Today we encounter a turtle and I once again put this rule into play. Only today the turtle does not cooperate. We first spot him swimming towards our group of five divers in an unhurried fashion. He doesn’t look threatened that we are there, just keeps swimming toward us.

Kona Turtle

As he gets closer, I deploy my rule and make sure I am below him and start taking photos. I take one last photo when he is quite near me and perhaps he didn’t like my camera light. For reasons unknown to us the turtle went into attack mode.

Kona Turtle

Murray was taking a video of the action……

The diver with the yellow cap is Hailey, the dive master. After this video ends, it took Hailey some time to coax the turtle away, even after I swam off, and he went after two of the other divers!

I feel bad about this and have watched the video a number of times and realize what I should have done differently. It is hard to see in the video but the surge was tossing both the turtle and me around making everything harder. Lesson learned……the rule works but err on the cautious side and give turtles a wider berth next time.

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Creature of the Day – Wire Coral Shrimp

Wire Coral Shrimp are very tiny and are found on wire coral. Wire coral is a type of black coral and are covered in polyps. The tiny shrimp blend in with the coral they are sitting on, which makes them very difficult to spot and then photograph.

Wire Coral Shrimp
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Creature of the Day – Golden Lace Nudibranch

Nudibranchs are basically sea slugs. Not a glamorous thought, but boy are some nudibranchs beautiful. The Golden Lace is extraordinary, with the fine golden lines of highlighting and the black and white spotted gills and rhinophores. They look to be dressed up for a gala. The Golden Lace is only found in the waters off Hawaii.

Golden Lace Nudibranches
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Creature of the Day – Crab

Crab

We peak in holes, crevices and inside coral heads to find crabs. Crabs come in all sizes and colours, although mostly orange. Their eyes are intriguing and seem to stare right at me as I click a photo.

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