Must Haves for a Safari

Here are a few items that we think are essential to pack for a safari.

Lens cover to protect against dust – If you have an SLR camera with a large, expensive lens, take some sort of lens cover to protect it against the dust. The Serengeti is very dusty and there is no escaping it. Murray’s lens has dust in it and we have to send it away to get cleaned, if it can be cleaned. To avoid possibly wrecking a lens, take a cover for it.

Binoculars for each person – Each person should have his/her own binos. This avoids having to share and potentially missing something.

Flip Flops – We wear flip flops in our rooms and tents so not to tread in bare feet. With unknown bugs, it is safer to have some protection on the soles of feet. We wear them into the shower for non slip protection and in case the shower is not so clean.

Rain Poncho – The best protection against the rain in an open sided safari vehicle is a rain poncho. It covers torso, arms, legs, shoes and bags (sitting on laps). A rain jacket would not provided this much protection. Pat, our guide in Botswana, uses a rain poncho!

Warm Layer, Fuzzy, Jacket or Sweater – Even if it is hot during the day, the evenings often turn cool. Evening game drives, when sitting in an open vehicle in the wind, can be cool, so a warm layer is essential.

Clear Lens Glasses – Murray had a hard time with bugs flying into his eyes in the open vehicle when he didn’t wear his sunglasses. This was a problem on evening game drives and cloudy days. He was wishing he had brought his clear lens cycling glasses to protect his eyes.

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Learning Swahili in Tanzania

When we travel to a far off country, we like to learn a handful of words in the local language. Saying phrases like “The check please” and “No thank you” can make a waitress beam or a hawker walk away. While in Tanzania we learn Swahili.  We pick up the main words very quickly and we decide that Swahili would be easy to learn if given 6 months.

We greet people with Jambo (Hello) and they reply See Jambo (Hello to you, or something like that).  La La Salaam (Good night), Mambo (How are you?) and its response Poa (Good or Cool) get smiles from folks when we say them.

Assanti (Thank you) expands into Assanti Sanna (Thank you very much) or to Appana Assanti (No thank you). We used the last one many times while in Stonetown to discourage the hawkers and touts.

Kariboo (you are welcome) doesn’t really mean you’re welcome as said after thank you, but it means you are welcome to come into my shop.

A Kuna Matata (take it easy, easy does it or hang loose) was uttered by a few touts to Murray when Murray had to get terse with them to leave us alone. Isn’t the saying a song from the Lion King?

Pole-pole (slowly-slowly) as we hiked up and over Mt Makarot or crossing a busy street.

Dojo (hot) was Murray’s favorite and he said it many times as a start to a conversation. It always got a chuckle as Murray could not quite get the j to sound quite right.

We learned that there are many goodbyes in Swahili. There is a good bye for when you do not expect to see the person again and a goodbye for when you will – more like a see you soon. Unfortunately we cannot remember which one Wahari (g00dbye) is, so I will just say La La Salaam.

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Hippo

Hippopotami live with a bad rap. They are quite docile and not overly aggressive. Things  get ugly if you piss one off, like this fellow above, but if you don’t bother them, they lounge about in their pool like over sized ancient Romans in the spa. Bodily contact appears to be an important sensation as the pool is large but the hippos are all in one part so close together that the ones in the middle can not get out.  The day passes slow for a hippo with nothing to do but wallow.

Hippo Pool

Hippo Pool

There is a symphony of sound coming from the hippo pool. Grunts, puffs, burbs, farts, huffs, squeals and growls.

Hippos emerge from the pool at night to feed. Sometimes they will walk far to graze. In Botswana, we see darker shapes against the dark sky munching.

Pat tells us that hippos share some similar DNA with whales. I believe this as one hippo we spot is jumping up out of the water and performing a breaching like splash back into the water. Most whale like.

Whalelike Hippo

Whale-like Hippo

 

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The Hippo and the Crocodile

A Folk Story from Botswana….

The hippo wanted to come live in a pool, but there was a crocodile there already. The hippo asked the croc if he could come live in the pool and the croc said, “But you will eat all my fish.” The hippo replied that he wouldn’t because he only eats grass. They discussed this for a time and finally the croc suggested that the hippo go ask the creator.

The hippo went to the creator and asked if he could live in the pool with the croc and the creator said, “But you will eat all the croc’s fish”. The hippo explained that he only ate grass. The creator said, “But how will I know you are only eating grass and not eating the fish too?” The hippo told the creator that he would poop on the land and the creator will see that there are no fish bones in his poop. So the creator allowed the hippo to live in the pool.

After a time, the croc went to the creator and said that fish were disappearing from the pool. The creator immediately went to the hippo. The hippo said “Check my poop! Surely you can see that I have not been eating any fish!” The creator checked and agreed that the hippo was not eating any fish. “But who is eating the fish?” the creator asked.

The hippo agreed to help the creator search for the culprit eating the fish and that is why the hippo can be seen in the pool with only eyes, ears and nose above the water. He is watching for the fish thief.

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Debbie’s Packing Comments

Here are the clothes that went to Africa with me:

  • 2 pair pants – 1 linen, 1 technical
  • 2 cotton T-shirts
  • 2 long sleeved linen shirts
  • 1 long sleeved wool undershirt
  • 1 pair wool leggings
  • 1 down sweater
  • 1 lightweight rain/wind jacket
  • 1 thin plastic rain poncho
  • 1 cotton scarf
  • 1 toque
  • 1 wide brimmed sunhat
  • 1 swimsuit
  • 2 bras
  • 3 pair of undies
  • 2 pair of socks
  • 1 pair of light hiking shoes
  • 1 pair of flimsy shower flip flops

I basically had two sets of clothes – pants, T-shirt, linen shirt – which I used as daytime/nighttime wear. I switched them around depending on where we were. On safari in Botswana the technical pants were daytime wear in case we got wet (fast drying), but in Zanzibar the linen pants were the daytime wear. I found out that the technical pants were not good in the extreme heat – I got heat rash on my legs from ankle to thigh!

Safari Debbie

Tanzania Safari Debbie

I think an extra T-shirt would have come in handy as I would not have had to wash so frequently if I had a third T-shirt. I still find the linen shirts abit too heavy in the extreme heat so I will have to continue my search for a lighter weight linen.

The wool undershirt and down sweater were worn on the long haul flights and one evening/night when we were camping. The wool leggings got worn, and slept in, that same night too.  All these articles got worn in London when we went into town. If we hadn’t got delayed in London, the leggings would have been worn only once. I still think that it was good to have these three warm layers with me even though they were not worn alot. I hate being cold, so they are a must for me and are not bulky like a fuzzy.

I had bought a lightweight rain jacket at Goodwill before we left and I am glad I had it. I wore it almost every early morning and late evening on safari in Botswana. It did not repel rain well, but it kept the wind out. The rain poncho came in extremely handy on two occasions in Botswana and kept me dry. If I didn’t have a poncho, I would have gotten soaked. A poncho is a must have for a safari, especially in an open vehicle.

I must find different bras to travel in. I also got heat rash under my arms were my bra covered. The material in the bras must not breathe well and they were too hot.

I wished I had an extra pair of socks. I had one lightweight short rise pair and a heavier higher rise pair. I got the higher rise pair for the hiking to protect my legs, and was glad for them but they were too heavy to wear in the heat of Zanzibar, so I ended up wearing the same socks for about 4 days straight. They will never be the same!

The footwear worked well. My only comment is that it would have been nice to have sport sandals in Zanzibar, but extra footwear means extra weight and bulk. Do I take them to wear for 1 week out of a 6 week trip? No.

Overall, I think what I took for clothing worked very well. I did get tired of wearing the same clothes over and over, but I also did not want to carry any more weight.

Shopping during our hike on Mt Makarot

Shopping during our hike on Mt Makarot

We took sleep sacks with us in case we stayed in a hotel with questionable bed linens. They got used once when we were camping and it was more for warmth than cleanliness. We could have left them at home, it’s always a gamble whether we will need them.

We took small drawing books that only got used a few times. Should have left them behind.

The first aid kit came in handy for a couple of small wounds incurred. It is always a good idea to travel with a small first aid kit and we will always take one. We took a partial role of toilet paper. Unnecessary and it got left behind somewhere.

I get better at deciding what to pack on each trip we take. We will just have to take more trips to practice!

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Zebra

Zebra in Tanzania

Zebra in Tanzania

There is an abundance of Zebra everywhere we go. Unfortunately, they become a bit ho hum after a couple of days. Our guide says that most tourists get snooty about it and do not even stop to watch after the first day. We stop. I guess we are a bit odd. It is the stripes that make this horse like creature interesting. The pattens of the stripes are as unique as our fingerprints. The zebras in Tanzania have different stripes than the zebras in Botswana. Each time we stop to observe a group of them we try to get pictures of the Op Art patterns.

As they move across the plains they march along in single file – the line can stretch a very long way. Zebras can often be found grazing amongst wildebeest. Zebras do the great migration along with wildebeest, eland and Thompson Gazelles.

Our guide says that someone tried to domesticate zebras but it was not successful. Somehow I cannot picture a cowboy riding a zebra!

Zebra in Botswana

Zebra in Botswana

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Water

I am in the shower this morning at the Days Inn Airport, in Vancouver, and realize that we take water for granted here in Canada. Traveling to countries like Tanzania and Botswana remind me of how lucky we are to have an abundance of clean water.

I usually drink some of my water intake while in the shower. I let the water run into my mouth, even take a drink. It was very hard for me to keep my mouth closed while showering in Africa. If I thought I got water in my mouth, I would spit it out so not as to swallow it. The water cleanliness in these countries is not what our bodies are used to.

We brushed our teeth using bottled water and only used the barest amount of water to conserve the precious resource. Here we use water straight from the tap and let the water run more than is truly necessary.

While on our mobile tented safari, we showered under a metal bucket with a shower head attached to the bottom. We turned the water lever on, wet our bodies, turned the lever off, washed hair, soaped bodies down, turned lever on, quickly rinsed off and turned the lever off again. I always went first, so I was super quick to not use all the water so Murray would have water left for his shower.

In the shower at the Days Inn, I turn on the shower and let the water pour over my body the whole time. It felt so good to be able to do this. We are so lucky to have lots of available water.

I love the concept of hot water.While traveling in under developed countries, we often had cold showers. If I was hot and sweaty, it felt quite nice, but if it was cool, a cold shower is not fun. Hot water is a luxury that we assume will be there.

Water, we take it for granted – the abundance, the cleanliness, the availability and the warmth. Whenever I return home I am thankful for what we have.

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12/12/12 – London Town

Last night we almost got our whole problem sorted and we ran into a road block we could not solve. Airlines need to do a whole lot in the way of helping people out and not begging off the problems and passing them on. When I asked at the British Airways (the creator of the problem) desk if they could get hold of West Jet and have our flight rescheduled as we would not be able to make our original time, the answer was ‘West Jet does not have a presence in Heathrow so you will have to contact them yourselves.’ Then I tried to phone West Jet in Canada with the hotel telephone. The hotel system would not make a connection. The reception lady secured a cell phone from somewhere, I presume a manager, and we were able to connect. I was put on hold and when I finally did get through the lady at West Jet said she could do nothing with the reservation because I had booked it with Air Miles. She did connect me with Air Miles and when I got that connection I was in formed that it would be another 38 minute wait before I could talk to anyone. The old run around worked, I gave up. I did not want to run up another 38 minute call on some other person’s telephone. I then emailed Air Miles and told them to cancel the flight. I will have to fight with them when I get home.

We did book another flight home on West Jet at a cost of $301.00 each. I guess I will have to try and recover the cost of those flights from British Airways, I am not putting a whole lot of faith into see that cash again. The system is poor and I really think the airlines believe they have a guaranteed market and can do as they damn well please. I think they should concentrate on how to make the customer experience better and the business would come.

It is 12/12/12. We walk out of the hotel to catch the shuttle back to the airport so we can get the tube into town and there is snow on the ground. Real live Canada snow. How they got it all the way here and spread it over ground and cars just for us will forever be a mystery.

At the airport we stash our bags at the left luggage counter and we are off to central London. Debbie has the walking route all planned. We have to make slight alterations because the National Art Gallery does not open until 10am and we arrive downtown at 9.

We start out walking by Buckingham Palace, it is a nice building and all and has tons of history but I have seen it a couple of times and in reality it is really quite boring. Nothing happens there except the changing of the guard and I have yet to be there when that is happening. Today is not much different except we see a horse drawn carriage enter the grounds, pick up a passenger and leave. OOOH! (Note from Debbie: I liked going by Buckingham Palace!)

Passing through Piccadilly Square we head towards The National Gallery and on route we encounter some commotion at Leicester Square. They are setting up for tonight’s world premier of ‘The Hobbit.’ This immediately catches Debbie’s attention but alas, we are not able to even think about attending as we have had trouble enough with our airplanes and do not wish to shake an already rickety apple cart.

The National Gallery is FREE. They do have a donation box but we do not have any Pounds so I guess it is free to us. There are several rooms displaying 19th and 20th century painters so that is where we start. The Impressionist paintings and those of that time are our favorites and they are always worth a stop. The paintings that stopped me this time were painted in the 1500s in Venice. The painter is Canaletto. His paintings are about a meter by a meter and a half. Scenes of Venice canals of minute detail. I cannot imagine the amount of time it took to paint them. There were also a couple of painting by Leonardo and Michelangelo most of which I could not get crazy over but there was a sketch by in a room of its own drawn by Leonardo that we both stood for an minute or so and had a good long look.

Harad’s was our last stop. It is just past noon and the store is stupid crowded. We had a look at a few things but did spend too much time there. Even though it is world famous it is really just a department store. (Note from Debbie: I liked walking through Harrods!) Then as we are walking out we walk through the art gallery (store). Mounted on one of the walls not even in a prominent spot is a print of Mao by Andy Warhol. The price tag is 57,500 Pounds. I have never seen an Warhol original on sale before. I ask the girl if she has two because one would not suite our house, she says she only has one so we thanked her for her time and left.

The day runs smooth until we pass through security at Heathrow. Debbie had missed a couple of liquid container in her carry on luggage. In Canada they would have asked to see the items in question and that would have been that. At Heathrow they take apart the entire bag. Every single item is removed and looked at.Some of the items are swabbed and the swab tested for explosive whatevers. They did offer to repack the bag but since Debbie carries her bag as a back pack if it is not pack properly the items all sag to the bottom of the bag so we decline the help and go about the task ourselves. I do not want to be on a plane with a nut but sometimes the methods used by this security agency or that are absolutely ridiculous. If you ever pass through Heathrow make sure your carry on is EXACTLY as it should be or you will suffer the same fate.

Dinner at the Giraffe Restaurant on the non Britain side of the security system and we are headed to Canada. Good bye London.

 

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Delayed!

Twice now.

It is not often that we run into airline problems when we travel but twice on this trip an airline has made changes and it has affect our connections. As we mentioned before Air Botswana completely canceled one of our flights and put us on an alternate flight to J’berg which would have landed after out connection had taken off. Yesterday, after trying to check in on line and getting the message ‘ all flights have been flown’, we checked the British Airways site and discovered that the flight time had been changed and this time we would not make our BA flight to from London to Vancouver.

In anticipation of a bigger screw up than a schedule change we are up early and at the airport more than 2 ½ hours ahead of the scheduled departure. Debbie’s premonition was correct, not only is the time of the flight changed, our names have been removed from the flight list.

Arriving early is a good idea. The first fellow we see has no idea as to how to proceed. All he knows is that we are not on the flight docket. Second guy has a go and gets nowhere, the manager shows up and there is stress on his face. First he gets us on the impending flight to London. We should be ½ way home with this. He doesn’t believe there is enough time between flights to make the connection to Vancouver so he rebooks us on the same flight for the next day. All of the drama is taking place on African time, pole pole (poley,poley), which means slowly, slowly. I am not sure there is such a word as ‘stat’ or the like in Swahili, at least we never heard it if there is. Our seats secured there are several other items that have to be resolved. First, the boarding passes. Again, pole pole, the fellow that is assigned to print those out for us is off helping one of the other agents do something else so we wait. My anxiety grows.

Customer service here does not seem to run the same way as at home. In Canada we are taught to focus on the problem and the guest at hand and only when there is a resolution do you move on to the next task. Here the newest problem seems to get the attention and the unresolved task is set aside. Oh, they eventually get back to us and I do not even know if the task that took them away is solved but we are again the focus.

Now we have to change our arrangements for the next two days, first our hotel reservation in Vancouver. The Manager dials the number of the Days Inn and gets a connection. The connection is bad and there is some discussion about whether or not the reservation is for today or tomorrow. We are in East Africa and several hours ahead of Vancouver time, by time we are already in Dec. 11, Vancouver is still in Dec 10. Before this can be sorted the connection is lost.

A different phone is attained, and with a bit of kafuffle the SIM card is changed and a new connection is made. This time I am given the phone and voila we have switched the reservation. Boy this pole pole thing is hard for us (or at least me).

Debbie met a nice young fellow born in Somolia, living in Tanzania, and holding a Canadian passport. He is returning to Canada to visit his family for Christmas. He offers us the use of his phone to call Westjet to see if we can change our flight for one day later. We make contact and of course ‘All agents are busy right now we will answer your call in the order in which it was received.’ We get the call to board, so as of right now we do not have a flight home. But we are off to London!

As opposed to our trip here we are flying in the daytime and it is relatively clear. Our route takes us over Nairobi so we see one of the dormant volcanoes close to Kilimanjaro out our side of the plane, quite an impressive pimple on a flat landscape.

Then.  A short while later, we pass over the Libyan and Sahara Deserts. Debbie and I are glued to the window. I did not ever expect to see a desert on this scale and there they are. No one else seems to be enamoured but we take it all in. It is truly a sight. To see it from an altitude of 12,000M gives a perspective that could never be realized on the ground.

There are several manmade marks made on the sand and we wonder what they might be. We think we see pipelines, roads, wind farms, but we cannot be sure of any of it. Then we notice white spots amongst the golden sand and some black spots as well. Debbie figures out we are looking at low clouds and their shadows a very stunning illusion. It takes about 2 hours to fly over the entire desert and we do not leave our window.

We get to spend the night in London and have a plan to go into downtown tomorrow morning. We will walk for 3 or 4 hours and then head to the airport for our flight to Vancouver.

What we thought would be an interesting day has turned into just that- a little stress, a little poley-poley, a whole lotta sand and a bonus half day in one of the great cities of the world.

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Enroute

We wake up in opulence. Five star.

We walk this morning through Stonetown for the last time and stop at a shop where Murray bought a Coke the other day. The Muslim owner had discounted the Coke 100 TSh as neither had change, so we decided to go buy another Coke today and pay him back for his kindness. He recognized us right away and we sat in his grocery shop while we sipped the Coke.

He tells us the shop is busiest in the mornings and we get a first hand look at why. He sells samosas, chapatis and potato curry and other delights that folks buy for their breakfast or early lunch. It is a constant stream of customers.

The shop owner has a helper who serves the customers and the owner handles the cash. His “till” is a plastic bucket that he keeps close at hand.

We chat and then say our goodbyes and walk along the water for the last time.

We arrive at our hotel in Dar es Salaam, connect to try to check in with British Airways online to find all sorts of weirdness with our booking and flights home. Tomorrow will be an interesting day. We will see you in Canada………sometime!

We go to sleep in plainness. Two star.

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