Boo Hoo

Boo Hoo. It is time to leave. Today we get in the boat for the last time. Our dive master has a cold and his son, Dennis, is our new leader. He gives us the choice of where we want to dive. We choose San Fransisco and Punta Tunich.

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We say goodbye to the flora. To the fans and tubes and feather dusters and corals.

IMG_6722 (469x640)We say goodbye to the fish. Goodbye to the tiggerfish, angelfish, lion fish, filefish and trunkfish.

IMG_6699 (640x507)We say goodbye to the turtles and the eels and the one spotted eagle ray we see. Adios to the deep blue, the sandy bottom, the warm waters.

Adios to Cozumel. Boo Hoo

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The Art of Diving

Neon Goby

We dive with many different people while on dive trips. Each day Murray, R, B and I are the constants and a plethora of other divers from all over the world come and go. Divers from Costa Rica, Spain, Germany, US and Australia. These divers all have varying amounts of experience and levels of diving ability.

Murray and I pride ourselves on taking photographs under water without touching anything. We hover, using our breath to control our movements, over the coral to take a shot. If we happen to touch something, we both feel terrible.

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We dive with a fellow that, even though he seems to be an experienced diver, feels the need to kneel or step on the coral in order to get a photo. We are appalled at this behavior. We think that there is a certain etiquette that must be followed when in the underwater world and the most important point is to NOT touch anything. Why do some photographers feel they have special exemption from this?

We enjoy diving with a sister and brother from Spain because they spread out over the terrain, just like us, and give everyone lots of room. The ocean is a big space so divers do not need to be all crammed together. It is more pleasant and relaxing to dive spread out and not be bumping into one another.

Find the Flounder!

Find the Flounder!

We like other divers that move slowly. When we were in Grand Turk our dive master, Maki, taught us to move very slowly over the terrain. This allows a diver to study the behaviour of the fish. It also conserves air and diving for 60 minutes is not unusual.

When diving with new people every day, we notice that some divers travel quickly. Whether it is from the need to cross vast amounts of terrain or a lack of proper buoyancy, we do not know. We prefer to move slowly and so almost always take up the caboose position in the dive group. This allows us to travel at our own pace, always keeping the dive master is sight of course.

Anyone can learn to dive, but learning the art of diving takes time and many dives.

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It’s Saturday

It’s Saturday morning. Big day today, Murray’s 200th dive. To celebrate this milestone, Pumba takes us to Columbia, a more advanced dive with many swim throughs. Deep, curvy, twisty, sloped ones. We pass a turtle in one of them. It is also our dive master’s birthday. Pumba is 45 today. Last night we purchased a small blow up Tortuga and presented it to him when we boarded the dive boat. Pumba took Tortuga for the deep dive and the turtle did not seem to mind at all.

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It’s Saturday afternoon. After a lunch, at Wet Wendy’s, of chicken fingers and guacamole with taco chips shared by Murray, B and me, we wander back to our hotel to fill in our dive logs. Then a snooze. We all agree that this is the life to have – breakfast, dive, lunch, snooze, supper, sleep, repeat.

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It’s Saturday night. The weather is warm, an improvement from earlier this week. Everyone is out. Tourists and locals both. There is live music in Woody’s Bar and Restaurant, just off the main plaza. A dance band is setting up in the centre of the plaza getting ready to play. A spray paint artist is creating works of art and selling them to interested watchers. Across the street, on the waterfront, a trick bike exhibition is going on.

It’s Saturday in paradise.

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Learning to Scuba Dive

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Today is day 5 for diving and the new guys, R and B, are improving by leaps and bounds. It is amazing how fast things come with each dive. Debbie and I are also getting better with each dive. Our comfort level is rising geometrically every day.

As I swim around I notice there are not many good divers. Most are ‘intermediate’ at best. Like any sport, people’s skill level seems to plateau after learning a vast amount the first few times out. It is very difficult to be really good at a sport and diving is not any different.

First, the participant has to be somewhat of a jock. You have to have an awareness of your body and where it is in space. This is particularly important diving. The space within which you are suspended is truly 3-D. You also have to know what action is required to make your body do certain things in that environment. If I bend my body this way and kick, what reaction will it have?

The next important aspect of being better at diving is awareness of the environment within which it takes place. How to move about.  How to minimize movement.  How to conserve air.  It took Debbie and me a long time and a lot of dives to learn this stuff. We learned from watching other divers we admired. We learned from dive masters that were as much instructors as group leaders. We learned from trial and error. So after about 150 dives we had acquired enough skills to dive comfortably and stay under water for more than 1 hour.

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Our novice friends are learning at a very quick rate. Before each dive, Debbie or I will impart one or two tidbits of knowledge we have gained over our diving escapades and on the next dive they try what we had mentioned and their diving climbs a notch. After 3 days, R and B’s comments after a dive are positive. After 4 days, the comments are somewhat joyous. After 5 days of consecutive diving they have very big smiles and are ecstatic about what they had just done.

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If you are about to embark on a journey of learning a new sport it is a good idea to hitch up with someone that is already involved in that sport to help guide you along a steepened learning curve. Make sure that the ‘helper’ is knowledgeable and preferably has some sort of teaching experience. Your enjoyment of the sport will increase leaps and bounds in a shortened time.

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Diving and Walking

6:00am. no wind.  looks like a go.  breakfast as usual. 7:30. no wind.  8:05. time to leave.  wind is howling?????  how does that work.  8:30. dive shop. diving is on.

The dives are relaxing. Our novice divers are starting to enjoy themselves more. They’re looking in sponges and under overhangs, finding lobsters, and playing with the current. Our second dive is like a walk in the forest. We do not see any big elk or moose, but we enjoy the squirrels, flowers, ferns and trees and just being out in the forest.

Juvenile Lion Fish

Juvenile Lion Fish

On our return, R,A and B head off to Paradise Beach. Murray and I go for a walk in the neighbourhoods of Cozumel. As we walk we talk about how the third world is becoming less third world. There is a large middle class and they all can afford more than basic life necessities.

We go to Botswana and people there want to have a house designed like a North American house. Even though their lifestyle may not fit exactly into a North American house, they still want one. Is it the idea of being like North Americans that is so appealing?

Even in a country like Bhutan, the new apartment blocks that are being built have a western world look and feel to them. The influence has a long reach.

As we walk along residential streets in Cozumel, we see rows of houses that look like they could have been in any city in Europe or North America. Single family houses with gates, small yards, front doors and cars parked in front. Apartment units. Row housing.

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We notice how clean Cozumel is. We are told there is garbage pickup three times a week. We see a teenage boy throw an empty bottle into the trash can instead of on the road or in an empty lot. There is hardly any garbage on the streets.

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The people are friendly and reply to Murray’s “buenas tardes”. The children we come across smile at us when we say “ola” to them.

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Our walk through the residential side of Cozumel is just like our dive this morning, a walk in the forest. Relaxing.

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Afternoon Dive

Day 4, fingers crossed. Breakfast is at 7:20 then the long walk to the dive centre to see if the port is open today. I check the weather and the wind is mere 9km per hour but it looks like it is supposed to pick up as the day goes on. The forecast is for strong winds till the end of the week. Oh poo. We have to play the dive game day by day. Unfortunate because there is not much else that Debbie and I are interested in doing here on the island.

Port is closed. Just as we leave the shop to head back to the hotel a cruise ship heads for the dock. It is moving slow so we decide to double time it to the big dock and watch as the ants emerge from the bowels of the ship. It took some time but they started to march down the gang plank and along the dock marching to the platz.

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The wind is still blowing but we keep our hopes up. If it dies down enough we will be able to dive this afternoon.

The email arrives at 11am. The port is open, we will be diving at 12.30. It is hurry up and wait. The other folks that are to dive with us are told 1pm. At 1 we leave.

The waves are still quite high and the boat ride is rough but we make it to the dive site in good time. B wants to see some turtles. Pumba says how many. B says 5. 5 it is, the dive is relatively short but we see 5 turtles of varying size engaged in different activities.

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For good measure Pumba picks out a splendid toad fish. A shy fish, coloured with blue and grey stripes, that spends all day in a hole with only its head visible.

The second dive was also short because our surface interval was only 48 minutes. This time Debbie found a toad fish on her own. It is amazing how one can find things once one knows what to look for.

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‘Travel mode’ being the key to not getting excited about cancelled dive days. As we leave on a trip Debbie whispers to me ‘travel mode’. At that time I am supposed to take a deep breath, relax and go with what happens. We cannot do anything about the weather. When we learn that the dive is cancelled we return to the hotel, pick up our books and read. There is a chance the same will happen tomorrow but we have 5 more days left and we will dive again.

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Around Cozumel

The winds have been picking up since we arrived and today the wind is from the north blowing at about 40 km/hr. The port authority has closed the port. No boats are moving today, so no diving.

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We change our plans, rent a teeny tiny Chevy something, squish in and head south on the only road that circumnavigates the island. The west side of the island has the calmest water (when the wind is NOT howling) but the beaches are rock. There are a few entrepreneurs that have built beach bars with swimming pools, snack bars, imported sandy beaches, water toys and piers. The cost of admission is a minimum drink or food purchase of $10 US., basically, the cost of lunch. The best one we stopped at is Paradise Beach, which is 14.5 kms from downtown, about a $20 taxi fare.

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The east side of the island has rough water no matter what the wind is doing but has beautiful sand beaches. Murray and I brave the waves and go for 2 dips along the way.

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50 kilometers later we are heading back into San Miguel. We take a short tour of the city north of the airport to locate a beach Murray and I went to 10 years ago. R also wants to find the golf course. We locate Playa Azul, which has a sand beach and large restaurant. This beach is an option for a short stay at the beach rather than taking a taxi all the way to Paradise Beach.

To us, Cozumel is all about scuba diving. If diving is not available, a trip around the island is a fun way to spend a day.

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Drift Diving

The weather is better and the water is calmer today so our dives are farther afield, today we learn why Cozumel is famous for drift diving.

The first dive is at Palancar Gardens. The current is not too strong but it is a current and we drift nicely along. I have the camera today and it is easy to stop for a shot. Kicking lightly into the current I can hold my place and take several photos of the same subject hoping to get a good one. We float along letting the ‘movie’ entertain and see what we can pick out on the way by.

Swim Throughs

A Swim – Through

The terrain is quite spectacular, the wall is not high, maybe 50 ft or so, but there is lots of deviation and it is covered in coral. We cruise through a couple of swim-throughs which makes for an interesting dive. We have a couple of critter highlights, early in the dive the dive master points out a crab that would make dinner for four, a big fella but not something for the record books. Near the end of our dive, when there were only B, Debbie and me left, Debbie starts to wave like crazy and scream into her reg. She obviously sees something worth looking at. She points around the corner of a coral outcropping and heads me in that direction. There sitting up inside a shallow cave is a lobster the size of which I have never seen. I am not exaggerating at all when I say it is Debbie size. She is 5’1” tall and this lobster is at least as long as she is tall. I could not get her to move beside it so I could get a comparison picture so the pictures I have do not have anything in them that shows the lobster’s relative size. I still cannot believe how big it is, it looked like something from a sci-fi film. All in all a nice dive and if you are in Cozumel try to get out to the Palancar area.

Giant "Debbie sized" Lobster

Giant “Debbie sized” Lobster

The second dive of the day turns out to be a ripper. Pumba, the dive master, says ‘the current could be a bit faster here so beware.’ We are not going deep because it is dive 2 and we need to be a bit more conservative, 65 ft is our planned depth. We’ll swim along the top of the wall and see what we see. The current is so fast we feel like we are flying. R, who was worried that drift diving would be difficult, has a smile that can be made out even though he has reg in his mouth.

WE ARE MOVING! If you miss something, you miss it. The amount of air and effort needed to get back up stream would not be worth missing a good portion of the end of the dive.  I try to take pics and it is “decide now and click the shutter” because I do not get a second chance. Digital imaging is a blessing. You can always erase a mistake or two but if I was shooting film I would want to take more time because every exposure costs.

The current slows every once in a while and life becomes more leisurely. Then it picks up again and the amusement park ride begins anew. On the dive briefing Pumba says at the end of the dive he will try to point out a couple of sea horses and to his word he finds 2. I don’t know what is in the water here but both the sea horses are of the big variety. The other sea horses I have seen have been 6 cm max. both of these guys are 12 to 15 cm. Everyone has a good dive. R says it is the best dive he has had, it is amazing what a day or two and a dive or two will do for the confidence and level of skill acquired.

Seahorse

Seahorse

The last dive is what drift diving is about. We felt like the turtle in the movie Nemo that catches the ‘stream’ off Australia and rides it as if he is flying through space. Man it is fun and the divers here in Cozumel have learned to go with it and not put up a fight, so in fact the diving is easier here than other places where the dive route requires that you fight your way back to the boat rather than the boat following the divers’ bubbles and picking us up upstream.

Oh boy!  Debbie and I go again in the morning!

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Friendly Mexicans and Friendly Sealife

Wandering the roads and sidewalks of Cozumel, we notice how friendly the people of Cozumel are. Sure, the sales people want you to come into their shops and spend money, and the maître ‘ds want you to dine in their restaurants. But the old gent sitting in his front yard doesn’t want anything except a “good afternoon” and maybe a bit of conversation.

The people of Cozumel know that tourism is their business and without tourists, where would they be, what would they be doing? Tourists have been coming to this Caribbean island for decades. Memo Lopez, one of the owners of the Mi Casa en Cozumel, says that there used to be farming of pineapple, peppers and other vegetables on the island but there is no longer any farming. Tourism has taken over the island completely.

It’s our first dive day. R, B, Murray and I all have different sized butterflies fluttering around inside. Our first dive is laden with issues. Foggy masks, falling weight belts, trouble descending, regulators that won’t stay in mouths, hard to deal with currents. Once we get all those out of the way, the second dive is relaxing and enjoyable.

Coral Banded Shrimp

Banded Coral Shrimp

Along with friendly people, Cozumel has friendly sealife. The fish are used to people and they must know we are not a threat. They check us out as much as we check them out. We have a couple of humungous groupers swim by. I get very close to a French Angelfish. Murray has a close encounter with a Damsel Fish.

Trunk Fish

Smooth Trunkfish

We are all adjusting to life on the island and are enjoying the wonderful people and sealife Cozumel is showing us.

B and Debbie at our safety stop

B and Debbie at our safety stop

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Edmonton – Houston – Cozumel

We discover an efficient time to travel through airports. We arrive at the Edmonton International Airport at about 8:30pm. The United counter area is dead, the only person checking in is an older woman wanting to fly standby. B, R&A check in and check their bags and we head through security. Note – it appears that when you fly to the US on a late night flight, you do not pre-clear customs like you do for an early morning flight. OR they do not pre-clear customs because now every single person going through security in the States has to be screened by the fancy x-ray machine, something that is done on a randomly selected basis through Canadian security. We had allowed time to go through customs and ended up not having to go through this process. Security was a breeze also, so we get to the gate well in advance.

We arrive in Houston early, at about 5:00 am. Customs and Immigration is dead. It takes only minutes to clear customs and head through the airport to security to re-enter the gate area. The lineup is amazingly short and we are through in a blink of an eye.

WOW. Cruising through airports at odd hours has its benefits. The downside is that we are now running on between 1 and 3 hours of sleep depending on which of the 5 of us you ask.

We all take turns falling asleep in the boarding lounge waiting for our flight to Cozumel. We board, B and Murray manage to stay awake during the flight, but I pass out. In a short 1:45 we are landing in Cozumel to the 86 F heat.

Common Area

Common Area

Our hotel, Mi Casa en Cozumel, is quaint, one block off the water and an eight block walk from the dive shop. Our rooms are all very unique and charming. We have arrived!

Our room, The Mango Room

Our room, The Mango Room

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