Posthumous Bowl Reprise

The mornings are getting warmer. Not so good for skiing. Good for morning stability but the snow is getting crustier and crustier. (I haven’t been skiing yet, this is just speculation.) The routine has been set. I’m up first, the others filter down and breakfast prep begins. Today at noon that is all about to change as 5 more are to arrive by helicopter and the cabin will seem crowded to us. CHANGE; oh no!

peak 2

B and I start the day with a climb to one of the peaks. Don’t know the name but we get to the top. On the way up we plan the route down gambling on the quality of snow. The view from the top is long. I have no idea what I am looking at but B tries to ident as many peaks as he can. He says he isn’t 100% on the ident but I can’t possibly refute his thoughts.

peak 3

The ski down is on and off. The top is very weird,  hard as a table top, not so smooth and grabby. I haven’t used edges all year and skiing it is a test.  The little basin we eyed on the way up is smooth and boot top. The rest of the run is sun soaked or wind affected with the occasional bit of perfect snow.

peak 5

The crew arrives at noon – 5 more. B and I are on top of the mountain and watching the chopper land, can’t see who but we know there are 5. When we arrive everybody is settled, we want lunch and they want to go skiing. OK,OK our destination is Posthumous Bowl. The snow is excellent. The folks like it and we do it again. Our home run is through the glades to the valley. YAHOO! The snow is absolutely outstanding. The uptrack back to lodge is steep and mean as it was set by the “locals” that come up to orient us on the use of the cabin gear.

Dinner is prepared by J and is gourmet. Sunny, clear, mild wind, great skiing, delicious food, a banner day.

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Touring

Today is a day to tour. B spent last night studying the maps and planning a route to what looks like skiable terrain. Earlier start today – 10:30! No skins, as the first part of the trip is downhill. Over the edge and into the trees. Traversing the slope on a slightly downhill trajectory we end up at a meadow that is the high point on the transition from one side of the valley to the other. The meadow is not that big and it is amazing we hit it right in the middle.

The uptrack on the west side of the valley is again a shallow traverse. After not long we are at treeline and lunch in a sheltered sunny spot with a view. A million dollar view. We travel a long way in a reasonably short time. Here we split. B, M and J headed back to the lodge, J and I see a ridge farther on that looks like it needs some ski tracks.

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We go up. The climb is steep. We keep our senses on alert and there are no signs of instability. We reach the top and the view on the other side is more than worth the hike. As we edge our way along the ridge we keep looking north over the edge to see where we are going to ski down. We cannot really see the slope but we figure out where we are going to enter. There are 20 or 25 turns to the bottom varying in quality but none bad. It is steep but completely skiable. Life is good.

cliff face 1

The run through the glades to the creek below is north facing, the snow is dry and the skiing is great, then all of a sudden it looks steep, so steep in fact I’m quite sure it is straight down. In fact it is a cliff. J and I survey the situation and find there is a route but we find it by sliding down each drop 3M at a time. This way and that until we reach a spot that has a clear run to the bottom and it is 15 more great turns.

It is an adventure for sure. I’m quite sure the risk we are taking is minimal and the skiing is good. The touring today is good and as enjoyable as the skiing. I don’t think we had to walk as far as we did but there is always that sense of adventure. The serenity and the surroundings are what coaxes you on and on.

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Posthumous Bowl

I’m up. It’s 6 am and everyone else is still in the sack. It’s spring and the outside temperatures are not that extreme but the fire in the stove died and when I get up the digs are cold. I try to start a fire without success and give up; I do not want to waste paper so I sit quietly in the cold. Cold of course is relative and I am not in danger of expiring, just slightly uncomfortable.

B, the fire man, gets it going and the place starts to warm up. Our two local hosts cut out today and leave the valley with its five occupants. It is a leisurely morning and we don’t even get on the road until 11 but we can’t climb and ski for more than 5 hours anyway.

posthumous bowl

We start on a new uptrack headed due north and into a bowl the local guys told us about yesterday. Posthumous Bowl, I believe. After walking across the top we try to determine what aspect will have ideal snow. Some discussion, remove the skins and off we go. 4 or 5 hundred meters vertical, all 5 of us have smiles on our faces by the bottom. Big smiles. The snow is mildly inconsistent but very skiable and about boot top deep. Heaven.

J and I make 4 long runs today. Yesterday it seemed quite hard but it is amazing how fast I get into the rhythm and the day is not hard until the last uptrack to home base. B tells us that it is about 200M vertical but quite steep. Steep it is and it is quite a slog for the last one of the day. Tired yes but the last run to the bottom of the valley was worth every step up. That Coke upon arrival goes down easy, very easy. I have to conserve my stash as the closest 7/11 is a long ways away.  The cabin is warm when J and I arrive and we relax after a great day.

Sauna time.

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The Ultimate Backcountry

It’s quiet here. The ride is noisy but as soon as the chopper leaves the silence becomes one of the first things I notice. The wind blows but even that is not noisy. We make noise, it is hard to be quiet but it is only our voices and a bit of bumping and banging and it is easily absorbed into the valley.

There are 5 in the Amiskwi Backcountry Lodge, near Golden, BC and two others in the adjacent cabin. I’m quite sure we are the only ones in the entire valley.

We settle in, skin up and are off to see how the skiing is. There is tons of snow; 45 cm in the last couple of days and the last group in was 10 days ago. The terrain is trackless but our hosts tell us that last evening was quite warm and it had an adverse effect on the snow. The prevailing winds are from the south west and the sun this time of year affects the south and west facing exposure the most so by a simple process of elimination our best bet is going to be the north and east exposure.

day 1 1

The uptrack is fast, it maybe takes 30 minutes. The run down is good. The snow is not deep but it is generally consistent and very good skiing. It is our first view of the available terrain and I do not think we will run out of ski options in the week we are here. I am still hoping it snows.

Standing high on a ridge the two ‘locals’ point out the highlights and give us an idea where the snow might be good. I think we will follow up on some of their suggestions. There is one full day tour that sounds good, where most of the skiing is on slopes with a north aspect so the snow should be good, but it is a 6.5 hour trek. I think that will be a later in the week thing.

day 1 2

A good start to my week of backcountry skiing.

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A Visit with M and Toby in Grande Prairie, Alberta

Grande Prairie, Alberta is about a 4 hour drive, or 1 hour flight, north of Edmonton. It has a population of about 50,000. What draws workers to the area is the oil patch and the forest industry. As a specific travel destination, I do not see much to draw a tourist except that it is along the route to Alaska.

Grande Prairie, or GP, is bleak when I arrive as the weather is snowy, chilly and unspringlike. The bright light at the airport is the vision of my daughter who I haven’t seen since Christmas. We bundle into her car and head to her townhouse to organize ourselves for the day.

We walk in the door and I meet Toby for the first time. He is supposed to be a Blue Heeler, but M thinks that there is some Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dog mixed in. He is 7 months old and is very excited that M has brought home a visitor. He is very social, smart and doesn’t stop moving. He is a cutie!

Toby!

Toby!    (photo by MW)

We follow M’s normal weekend routine and chatter away, catching up with all the news. We walk Toby in an empty field close to home, buy groceries, go out for supper and M takes me with them to the dog park. For a non-dog person, this was quite the experience. Having 8 to 10 dogs racing around and coming up to me for a sniff and a hello is very daunting. I stick close to M! Toby loves it and makes a friend of another puppy.

Toby and Friend

Toby and Friend   (photo by MW)

He runs and runs and sniffs and plays and runs some more and gets very dirty.

Toby, after the dog park

Toby, after the dog park    (photo by MW)

I am back in Edmonton now and it is very quiet in the house without M and Toby to chat and play with. It was a great weekend!

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North and West

This weekend, Murray and I are both heading out of Edmonton. I am flying North to Grande Prairie and Murray is driving west to Golden and then is being helicoptered into a backcountry lodge.

Every year the group that Murray backcountry skis with plans a trip to one of the lodges high up in the mountains. They spend a week skiing, eating and sleeping in the winter wonderland before they pack up the ski gear for the summer. The lodge they are going to this time is called Amiskwi Backcountry Lodge and it is accessed from Golden. Check out their website to see what it is all about.

There are five folks going for the full week and another five are joining them midweek for a half week. The lodgers are responsible for their own food and keeping the lodge clean. Each person is responsible for preparing a number of breakfasts or suppers. Murray is busy planning the breakfasts that he will cook.  The kitchen is fully supplied with pots, dishes, etc and cleaning supplies. There are a number of bedrooms. Lodgers must bring their own sleeping bags, pillowcases and towels. There are two composting toilets inside. The lodge even has a sauna!

Luggage is kept to 40 lbs per person plus a pair of skis, so Murray has some packing and sorting to do to keep under that limit. With regular clothes, ski gear, backcountry pack and gear and food, he will be right on the limit.

While he is busy planning his trip, I am thinking of seeing my daughter. I will throw a few clothes in a knapsack and walk onto the plane for the one hour flight to Grande Prairie. M has a new dog so I get to meet Toby, go for lots of walks and catch up on the news with M.

We are traveling again, only this time we are going in different directions, North and West.

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Cozumel Budget Analysis

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We made it home to the melting snow, dirty streets and cool temperatures. Laundry is done. Dive gear is rinsed and put away. Wetsuits are still drying. Time for the post trip budget analysis.

I can safely say we did NOT loose any US bills on this trip! (Not a repeat of our Africa trip, thank goodness.) YAHOO! The tally of what cash we took with us, what we spent and what we came home with adds up!

Here is my analysis of budgeted amounts to actual spent:

                                                                    Budget                   Actual

Food                                                            900                         405

Diving                                                        1,410                      1,350

Misc, Shopping Etc                                  300                         270

Travel Days Food                                         80                           50

Safety Margin                                             300                              0

TOTAL                                                      2,990                       2,075

We spent under half of the budgeted amount for food. After the first few days in Cozumel, we realized that the portions were huge, so we started to share entrees. Sometimes three of us would share two entrees. We also found a bakery where cheap lunch could be had. These two factors helped cut our food costs immensely.

Diving costs were pretty close as were the Misc expenses. Travel Days Food was budgeted a little high and we did not have to use the Safety Margin funds at all. Not baaaad!

It’s nice to come home and go to the bank to put money back into the travel account to wait for our next foray into the world.

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Boo Hoo

Boo Hoo. It is time to leave. Today we get in the boat for the last time. Our dive master has a cold and his son, Dennis, is our new leader. He gives us the choice of where we want to dive. We choose San Fransisco and Punta Tunich.

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We say goodbye to the flora. To the fans and tubes and feather dusters and corals.

IMG_6722 (469x640)We say goodbye to the fish. Goodbye to the tiggerfish, angelfish, lion fish, filefish and trunkfish.

IMG_6699 (640x507)We say goodbye to the turtles and the eels and the one spotted eagle ray we see. Adios to the deep blue, the sandy bottom, the warm waters.

Adios to Cozumel. Boo Hoo

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The Art of Diving

Neon Goby

We dive with many different people while on dive trips. Each day Murray, R, B and I are the constants and a plethora of other divers from all over the world come and go. Divers from Costa Rica, Spain, Germany, US and Australia. These divers all have varying amounts of experience and levels of diving ability.

Murray and I pride ourselves on taking photographs under water without touching anything. We hover, using our breath to control our movements, over the coral to take a shot. If we happen to touch something, we both feel terrible.

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We dive with a fellow that, even though he seems to be an experienced diver, feels the need to kneel or step on the coral in order to get a photo. We are appalled at this behavior. We think that there is a certain etiquette that must be followed when in the underwater world and the most important point is to NOT touch anything. Why do some photographers feel they have special exemption from this?

We enjoy diving with a sister and brother from Spain because they spread out over the terrain, just like us, and give everyone lots of room. The ocean is a big space so divers do not need to be all crammed together. It is more pleasant and relaxing to dive spread out and not be bumping into one another.

Find the Flounder!

Find the Flounder!

We like other divers that move slowly. When we were in Grand Turk our dive master, Maki, taught us to move very slowly over the terrain. This allows a diver to study the behaviour of the fish. It also conserves air and diving for 60 minutes is not unusual.

When diving with new people every day, we notice that some divers travel quickly. Whether it is from the need to cross vast amounts of terrain or a lack of proper buoyancy, we do not know. We prefer to move slowly and so almost always take up the caboose position in the dive group. This allows us to travel at our own pace, always keeping the dive master is sight of course.

Anyone can learn to dive, but learning the art of diving takes time and many dives.

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It’s Saturday

It’s Saturday morning. Big day today, Murray’s 200th dive. To celebrate this milestone, Pumba takes us to Columbia, a more advanced dive with many swim throughs. Deep, curvy, twisty, sloped ones. We pass a turtle in one of them. It is also our dive master’s birthday. Pumba is 45 today. Last night we purchased a small blow up Tortuga and presented it to him when we boarded the dive boat. Pumba took Tortuga for the deep dive and the turtle did not seem to mind at all.

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It’s Saturday afternoon. After a lunch, at Wet Wendy’s, of chicken fingers and guacamole with taco chips shared by Murray, B and me, we wander back to our hotel to fill in our dive logs. Then a snooze. We all agree that this is the life to have – breakfast, dive, lunch, snooze, supper, sleep, repeat.

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It’s Saturday night. The weather is warm, an improvement from earlier this week. Everyone is out. Tourists and locals both. There is live music in Woody’s Bar and Restaurant, just off the main plaza. A dance band is setting up in the centre of the plaza getting ready to play. A spray paint artist is creating works of art and selling them to interested watchers. Across the street, on the waterfront, a trick bike exhibition is going on.

It’s Saturday in paradise.

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