The Ultimate Backcountry

It’s quiet here. The ride is noisy but as soon as the chopper leaves the silence becomes one of the first things I notice. The wind blows but even that is not noisy. We make noise, it is hard to be quiet but it is only our voices and a bit of bumping and banging and it is easily absorbed into the valley.

There are 5 in the Amiskwi Backcountry Lodge, near Golden, BC and two others in the adjacent cabin. I’m quite sure we are the only ones in the entire valley.

We settle in, skin up and are off to see how the skiing is. There is tons of snow; 45 cm in the last couple of days and the last group in was 10 days ago. The terrain is trackless but our hosts tell us that last evening was quite warm and it had an adverse effect on the snow. The prevailing winds are from the south west and the sun this time of year affects the south and west facing exposure the most so by a simple process of elimination our best bet is going to be the north and east exposure.

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The uptrack is fast, it maybe takes 30 minutes. The run down is good. The snow is not deep but it is generally consistent and very good skiing. It is our first view of the available terrain and I do not think we will run out of ski options in the week we are here. I am still hoping it snows.

Standing high on a ridge the two ‘locals’ point out the highlights and give us an idea where the snow might be good. I think we will follow up on some of their suggestions. There is one full day tour that sounds good, where most of the skiing is on slopes with a north aspect so the snow should be good, but it is a 6.5 hour trek. I think that will be a later in the week thing.

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A good start to my week of backcountry skiing.

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A Visit with M and Toby in Grande Prairie, Alberta

Grande Prairie, Alberta is about a 4 hour drive, or 1 hour flight, north of Edmonton. It has a population of about 50,000. What draws workers to the area is the oil patch and the forest industry. As a specific travel destination, I do not see much to draw a tourist except that it is along the route to Alaska.

Grande Prairie, or GP, is bleak when I arrive as the weather is snowy, chilly and unspringlike. The bright light at the airport is the vision of my daughter who I haven’t seen since Christmas. We bundle into her car and head to her townhouse to organize ourselves for the day.

We walk in the door and I meet Toby for the first time. He is supposed to be a Blue Heeler, but M thinks that there is some Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dog mixed in. He is 7 months old and is very excited that M has brought home a visitor. He is very social, smart and doesn’t stop moving. He is a cutie!

Toby!

Toby!    (photo by MW)

We follow M’s normal weekend routine and chatter away, catching up with all the news. We walk Toby in an empty field close to home, buy groceries, go out for supper and M takes me with them to the dog park. For a non-dog person, this was quite the experience. Having 8 to 10 dogs racing around and coming up to me for a sniff and a hello is very daunting. I stick close to M! Toby loves it and makes a friend of another puppy.

Toby and Friend

Toby and Friend   (photo by MW)

He runs and runs and sniffs and plays and runs some more and gets very dirty.

Toby, after the dog park

Toby, after the dog park    (photo by MW)

I am back in Edmonton now and it is very quiet in the house without M and Toby to chat and play with. It was a great weekend!

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North and West

This weekend, Murray and I are both heading out of Edmonton. I am flying North to Grande Prairie and Murray is driving west to Golden and then is being helicoptered into a backcountry lodge.

Every year the group that Murray backcountry skis with plans a trip to one of the lodges high up in the mountains. They spend a week skiing, eating and sleeping in the winter wonderland before they pack up the ski gear for the summer. The lodge they are going to this time is called Amiskwi Backcountry Lodge and it is accessed from Golden. Check out their website to see what it is all about.

There are five folks going for the full week and another five are joining them midweek for a half week. The lodgers are responsible for their own food and keeping the lodge clean. Each person is responsible for preparing a number of breakfasts or suppers. Murray is busy planning the breakfasts that he will cook.  The kitchen is fully supplied with pots, dishes, etc and cleaning supplies. There are a number of bedrooms. Lodgers must bring their own sleeping bags, pillowcases and towels. There are two composting toilets inside. The lodge even has a sauna!

Luggage is kept to 40 lbs per person plus a pair of skis, so Murray has some packing and sorting to do to keep under that limit. With regular clothes, ski gear, backcountry pack and gear and food, he will be right on the limit.

While he is busy planning his trip, I am thinking of seeing my daughter. I will throw a few clothes in a knapsack and walk onto the plane for the one hour flight to Grande Prairie. M has a new dog so I get to meet Toby, go for lots of walks and catch up on the news with M.

We are traveling again, only this time we are going in different directions, North and West.

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Cozumel Budget Analysis

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We made it home to the melting snow, dirty streets and cool temperatures. Laundry is done. Dive gear is rinsed and put away. Wetsuits are still drying. Time for the post trip budget analysis.

I can safely say we did NOT loose any US bills on this trip! (Not a repeat of our Africa trip, thank goodness.) YAHOO! The tally of what cash we took with us, what we spent and what we came home with adds up!

Here is my analysis of budgeted amounts to actual spent:

                                                                    Budget                   Actual

Food                                                            900                         405

Diving                                                        1,410                      1,350

Misc, Shopping Etc                                  300                         270

Travel Days Food                                         80                           50

Safety Margin                                             300                              0

TOTAL                                                      2,990                       2,075

We spent under half of the budgeted amount for food. After the first few days in Cozumel, we realized that the portions were huge, so we started to share entrees. Sometimes three of us would share two entrees. We also found a bakery where cheap lunch could be had. These two factors helped cut our food costs immensely.

Diving costs were pretty close as were the Misc expenses. Travel Days Food was budgeted a little high and we did not have to use the Safety Margin funds at all. Not baaaad!

It’s nice to come home and go to the bank to put money back into the travel account to wait for our next foray into the world.

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Boo Hoo

Boo Hoo. It is time to leave. Today we get in the boat for the last time. Our dive master has a cold and his son, Dennis, is our new leader. He gives us the choice of where we want to dive. We choose San Fransisco and Punta Tunich.

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We say goodbye to the flora. To the fans and tubes and feather dusters and corals.

IMG_6722 (469x640)We say goodbye to the fish. Goodbye to the tiggerfish, angelfish, lion fish, filefish and trunkfish.

IMG_6699 (640x507)We say goodbye to the turtles and the eels and the one spotted eagle ray we see. Adios to the deep blue, the sandy bottom, the warm waters.

Adios to Cozumel. Boo Hoo

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The Art of Diving

Neon Goby

We dive with many different people while on dive trips. Each day Murray, R, B and I are the constants and a plethora of other divers from all over the world come and go. Divers from Costa Rica, Spain, Germany, US and Australia. These divers all have varying amounts of experience and levels of diving ability.

Murray and I pride ourselves on taking photographs under water without touching anything. We hover, using our breath to control our movements, over the coral to take a shot. If we happen to touch something, we both feel terrible.

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We dive with a fellow that, even though he seems to be an experienced diver, feels the need to kneel or step on the coral in order to get a photo. We are appalled at this behavior. We think that there is a certain etiquette that must be followed when in the underwater world and the most important point is to NOT touch anything. Why do some photographers feel they have special exemption from this?

We enjoy diving with a sister and brother from Spain because they spread out over the terrain, just like us, and give everyone lots of room. The ocean is a big space so divers do not need to be all crammed together. It is more pleasant and relaxing to dive spread out and not be bumping into one another.

Find the Flounder!

Find the Flounder!

We like other divers that move slowly. When we were in Grand Turk our dive master, Maki, taught us to move very slowly over the terrain. This allows a diver to study the behaviour of the fish. It also conserves air and diving for 60 minutes is not unusual.

When diving with new people every day, we notice that some divers travel quickly. Whether it is from the need to cross vast amounts of terrain or a lack of proper buoyancy, we do not know. We prefer to move slowly and so almost always take up the caboose position in the dive group. This allows us to travel at our own pace, always keeping the dive master is sight of course.

Anyone can learn to dive, but learning the art of diving takes time and many dives.

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It’s Saturday

It’s Saturday morning. Big day today, Murray’s 200th dive. To celebrate this milestone, Pumba takes us to Columbia, a more advanced dive with many swim throughs. Deep, curvy, twisty, sloped ones. We pass a turtle in one of them. It is also our dive master’s birthday. Pumba is 45 today. Last night we purchased a small blow up Tortuga and presented it to him when we boarded the dive boat. Pumba took Tortuga for the deep dive and the turtle did not seem to mind at all.

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It’s Saturday afternoon. After a lunch, at Wet Wendy’s, of chicken fingers and guacamole with taco chips shared by Murray, B and me, we wander back to our hotel to fill in our dive logs. Then a snooze. We all agree that this is the life to have – breakfast, dive, lunch, snooze, supper, sleep, repeat.

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It’s Saturday night. The weather is warm, an improvement from earlier this week. Everyone is out. Tourists and locals both. There is live music in Woody’s Bar and Restaurant, just off the main plaza. A dance band is setting up in the centre of the plaza getting ready to play. A spray paint artist is creating works of art and selling them to interested watchers. Across the street, on the waterfront, a trick bike exhibition is going on.

It’s Saturday in paradise.

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Learning to Scuba Dive

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Today is day 5 for diving and the new guys, R and B, are improving by leaps and bounds. It is amazing how fast things come with each dive. Debbie and I are also getting better with each dive. Our comfort level is rising geometrically every day.

As I swim around I notice there are not many good divers. Most are ‘intermediate’ at best. Like any sport, people’s skill level seems to plateau after learning a vast amount the first few times out. It is very difficult to be really good at a sport and diving is not any different.

First, the participant has to be somewhat of a jock. You have to have an awareness of your body and where it is in space. This is particularly important diving. The space within which you are suspended is truly 3-D. You also have to know what action is required to make your body do certain things in that environment. If I bend my body this way and kick, what reaction will it have?

The next important aspect of being better at diving is awareness of the environment within which it takes place. How to move about.  How to minimize movement.  How to conserve air.  It took Debbie and me a long time and a lot of dives to learn this stuff. We learned from watching other divers we admired. We learned from dive masters that were as much instructors as group leaders. We learned from trial and error. So after about 150 dives we had acquired enough skills to dive comfortably and stay under water for more than 1 hour.

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Our novice friends are learning at a very quick rate. Before each dive, Debbie or I will impart one or two tidbits of knowledge we have gained over our diving escapades and on the next dive they try what we had mentioned and their diving climbs a notch. After 3 days, R and B’s comments after a dive are positive. After 4 days, the comments are somewhat joyous. After 5 days of consecutive diving they have very big smiles and are ecstatic about what they had just done.

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If you are about to embark on a journey of learning a new sport it is a good idea to hitch up with someone that is already involved in that sport to help guide you along a steepened learning curve. Make sure that the ‘helper’ is knowledgeable and preferably has some sort of teaching experience. Your enjoyment of the sport will increase leaps and bounds in a shortened time.

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Diving and Walking

6:00am. no wind.  looks like a go.  breakfast as usual. 7:30. no wind.  8:05. time to leave.  wind is howling?????  how does that work.  8:30. dive shop. diving is on.

The dives are relaxing. Our novice divers are starting to enjoy themselves more. They’re looking in sponges and under overhangs, finding lobsters, and playing with the current. Our second dive is like a walk in the forest. We do not see any big elk or moose, but we enjoy the squirrels, flowers, ferns and trees and just being out in the forest.

Juvenile Lion Fish

Juvenile Lion Fish

On our return, R,A and B head off to Paradise Beach. Murray and I go for a walk in the neighbourhoods of Cozumel. As we walk we talk about how the third world is becoming less third world. There is a large middle class and they all can afford more than basic life necessities.

We go to Botswana and people there want to have a house designed like a North American house. Even though their lifestyle may not fit exactly into a North American house, they still want one. Is it the idea of being like North Americans that is so appealing?

Even in a country like Bhutan, the new apartment blocks that are being built have a western world look and feel to them. The influence has a long reach.

As we walk along residential streets in Cozumel, we see rows of houses that look like they could have been in any city in Europe or North America. Single family houses with gates, small yards, front doors and cars parked in front. Apartment units. Row housing.

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We notice how clean Cozumel is. We are told there is garbage pickup three times a week. We see a teenage boy throw an empty bottle into the trash can instead of on the road or in an empty lot. There is hardly any garbage on the streets.

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The people are friendly and reply to Murray’s “buenas tardes”. The children we come across smile at us when we say “ola” to them.

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Our walk through the residential side of Cozumel is just like our dive this morning, a walk in the forest. Relaxing.

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Afternoon Dive

Day 4, fingers crossed. Breakfast is at 7:20 then the long walk to the dive centre to see if the port is open today. I check the weather and the wind is mere 9km per hour but it looks like it is supposed to pick up as the day goes on. The forecast is for strong winds till the end of the week. Oh poo. We have to play the dive game day by day. Unfortunate because there is not much else that Debbie and I are interested in doing here on the island.

Port is closed. Just as we leave the shop to head back to the hotel a cruise ship heads for the dock. It is moving slow so we decide to double time it to the big dock and watch as the ants emerge from the bowels of the ship. It took some time but they started to march down the gang plank and along the dock marching to the platz.

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The wind is still blowing but we keep our hopes up. If it dies down enough we will be able to dive this afternoon.

The email arrives at 11am. The port is open, we will be diving at 12.30. It is hurry up and wait. The other folks that are to dive with us are told 1pm. At 1 we leave.

The waves are still quite high and the boat ride is rough but we make it to the dive site in good time. B wants to see some turtles. Pumba says how many. B says 5. 5 it is, the dive is relatively short but we see 5 turtles of varying size engaged in different activities.

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For good measure Pumba picks out a splendid toad fish. A shy fish, coloured with blue and grey stripes, that spends all day in a hole with only its head visible.

The second dive was also short because our surface interval was only 48 minutes. This time Debbie found a toad fish on her own. It is amazing how one can find things once one knows what to look for.

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‘Travel mode’ being the key to not getting excited about cancelled dive days. As we leave on a trip Debbie whispers to me ‘travel mode’. At that time I am supposed to take a deep breath, relax and go with what happens. We cannot do anything about the weather. When we learn that the dive is cancelled we return to the hotel, pick up our books and read. There is a chance the same will happen tomorrow but we have 5 more days left and we will dive again.

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