Tour of Alberta – Stage 5 – Okotoks to Calgary

Posted on September 9, 2013 by debbie

It’s the last day of the Tour of Alberta, it is the weekend and we are in Okotoks, near Calgary, so we notice the difference in the size of the crowd. I have been impressed with the crowds up to now, but I think today at the finish in Calgary we will see really big numbers.

On the very first day we chatted with a couple of Irish expats, J and O. O is one of the race photographers and J is responsible to navigate the race route for the driver of one of the cars that transports photographers around the route. They do this for all of the big races in North America. Every day of the race, till now, we have crossed paths with them. Today, with the number of people about I do not think we will meet up. Too bad, I would like to say so long and see you soon, but it may just have to wait until next year.

Okotoks - calm before the race

The calm before the race

okotoks start

Off they go!

After watching the roll out in Okotoks, Debbie and I jump in the car and head to her cousin’s place in Calgary. We want to park outside the downtown area to avoid what we assume with be a nightmare. G & M live about 2 blocks from the C train so we are going to use public transit. We arrive downtown about 1 hour before the riders, there are a few people about but it is not crowded. I have predetermined where I want to watch the city circuit from and we are well ahead of the crowd so we secure a spot and wait.

Often the last day of a ‘tour’ type race is a procession and there is not much racing involved. The last day at the Tour of Alberta does not seem to be playing out that way. There is a break of 8 or 9 riders up the road and the chase is on. There are plenty of folks about with smart phones and they are following the race on Tour Tracker so it is easy to keep up with the whereabouts of the riders.

calgary hesjedal

Hesjedal leads the peleton

Today is the big show and show they do. The four laps in downtown Calgary are fast, really fast. The corner where we are is about 150 degrees, we are sitting at the exit and the riders take the entire road to corner safely at speed. We are on the curb and they are riding the gutter, there is about 6 inches between us. Exciting for me, but the folks beside me are completely taken back by how fast the group is going and how close they are to each other. I do not know how many spectators there are in attendance today, lots, I am sure there are more than a few new converts to cycle race viewing.

The Tour of Alberta did exactly as the name suggests. Debbie and I have previously visited all the places the race touched, but this trip gave us an expanded look at each of them. For a person unfamiliar with our province it was showcased very well. As the race progressed, each stage took place over different terrain with totally different environmental conditions to overcome. The pancake flat stage from Sherwood Park to Camrose was very different from the rolling hills in the south around Black Diamond. The sunny fall weather enjoyed during most of the days of racing was in total contrast to the cold Alberta rain that was endured on the day the racers rode in the foothills.

alberta landscape

The colors in the landscape are outstanding at this time of year and I enjoyed being a passenger and observing the richness of them as we passed. The grain in the fields is ripening and the deep golden color is stunning as it appears with the green of the adjacent trees and the blue of the water that sits in low lying areas.

alberta landscape

Something very evident this year is the amount of water. It is the first year in many I have observed large expanses of water in the fields and in every pond there are ducks and geese. I’m quite sure they are loving this small change from the recent past.

The last 6 days have been a blast. Following the race, seeing all the behind the scenes action and hobnobbing with some of the people involved has been a highlight. I think 6 days in a row is about enough. It is way harder work than it may sound. We are both tired and have seen just about all the aspects of the race there is to see. We do not want to wear out our interest or curiosity. Will we do it again? I think so. On the drive home we were  talking about what we learned this year and how we will alter our approach next year to make the trip even more rewarding.

swag collected

Swag collected

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Tour of Alberta – Stage 4 – Black Diamond

Posted on September 7, 2013 by debbie

After leaving Drumheller bathed in sunlight with nothing but blue sky we turned west and observed the darkness aloft. We drove without hesitation and proceeded to drive into an out and out rain storm. We have a goal and not much will get in our way.

Last night the campground in Black Diamond we were going to stay in was closed due to flooding. We ended up in a campground in Turner Valley called Hells’ Half Acre” and yes, it was. So, this morning, instead of staying for another night in hell, we packed up in the pouring rain and vacated with a sigh of relief. A fine start to another day watching the Tour of Alberta.

We have breakfast at the Black Diamond Bakery and Coffee Shop. The aromas wafting around the counters were heavenly! And the sights in the counter windows were divine. We sufficed with our usual of eggs, sausage, toast for Murray and hash browns and bacon for me. We chat with some locals who are not so thrilled with the Tour of Alberta coming through town. When asked if they were going to watch the tour, they shook their collective heads “No”.

Since we packed up in the rain and in a hurry, we did not organize for the day, so we find an overhang on a commercial building, back in and organize for the day. I’m am sure we looked rather odd changing our clothes, brushing our teeth, making lunch and re packing the vehicle, but it worked and we stayed dry.

Staying Dry

Staying Dry

Next stop, a coffee shop called “The Stop”, the only place in Black Diamond with available wi-fi. We drink tea, hot chocolate and post our blog. The place is packed and we end up sharing a table with Clara, who is THE “Tour Tracker” for the Tour of Alberta. She listens to the race radio and composes and posts, from the live feed, for all the big races in North America on Tour Tracker.

Time to head to the start of Stage 4. I hang out at the Garmin-Sharp bus hoping to get a glimpse of Vandeveld, Zabriskie, Dennis, Millar and Hesjedal. Murray wanders around the other team vehicles.

Stage 4 Before the Start

Stage 4 Before the Start

The start of the race is a sprint out of the blocks. No neutral zone ride this morning, just swoosh – out they go.

The Start of Stage 4

Today we drive back roads to the hill where the KOM points will be given. The traffic is heavier today, it is a weekend and we are very near to Calgary.

Stage 4 KOM

Stage 4 KOM

The tour makes a very hilly loop enabling us to  watch the climb twice and it is still exciting to see the riders cruise by so close and make the hills look so easy. The break is 10 mins up and the chase is only hard enough to keep Rohan Dennis in yellow and he has a 17 minute advantage.

Stage 4 Peleton clims KOM

As I write this we are sitting in the Econo Lodge on MacLeod Trail, in Calgary. This is how far we had to go to find a hotel with rooms. Between the tour and Spruce Meadows horse jumping competition a hotel room is hard to find.

Tomorrow will find us at the start in Okotoks and then to downtown Calgary, with G&M (Debbie’s Calgary cousins), to watch the finishing circuit.

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Tour of Alberta – Stage 3 – Strathmore to Drumheller

Posted on September 7, 2013 by debbie

We are sitting in the McDonalds in Drumheller posting to our blog and drinking OJ and Coke and eating hash browns. As we work, we hear a conversation between 2 seniors behind us about the Tour of Alberta coming through Drumheller. Then we hear 6 other seniors start discussing the tour also. We are impressed to know that the Tour of Alberta is affecting so many people in the communities and causing so much conversation. I go over to the group of 6 and ask them if they are going to watch the race today. We sit and chat for a good while, they ask me all sorts of questions about riding and the tour. It was great fun and I hope I enlightened them.

KOM Drumheller

KOM outside Drumheller

There is a pretty long (3.5 km) steep (6%) climb going out of Drumheller and it is a KOM points spot. Today we decide to ride our bikes up the hill and watch the riders race to the KOM line.  We don our kits, hop on our bikes and off we go. No warmup – sounds like the West Coast Trail! The hill starts gradually and I start eating away at my gears, careful to leave a couple for the end as I know it kicks up slightly. Murray gains ground on me right away, I am pedaling squares at the start. Once I get my rhythm, the squares turn to circles and I chug away. It is a long climb, made harder by the wind bellowing in my face, by the top I am in my lowest of the low gears. Murray is waiting for me at the top anxious for my arrival since I have lunch with me.

We chat with the few people at the top, eat our lunch, take a few pictures and slowly watch more and more people arrive. By the time the riders are near, there is quite a crowd gathered along the road.

Robert Gesink

Robert Gesink

We hear there is a break of about 18 riders and that Rohan Dennis (in 2nd place in the GC, I think) is in the break. Peter Sagan is in the peleton, which is far behind. The break starts up the hill and the cheering begins. All of a sudden a couple of riders sprint for the top to garner the KOM points. Robert Gesink, one of a climbers by reputation and the first of the sprinters to the KOM line ends up with the Mountain Jersey at the end of the day.

The Peleton arrives

The Peleton arrives

Five minutes later the peleton streams up the hill. They ride very close to the shoulder and I have to move back to not block their way. They make climbing look so easy, but I know they are hurting.

Peleton chasing

Peleton

Now for our bit of fun! DOWN DOWN DOWN the hill we race, in a crouch going as fast as we dare on our bikes. We get to the vehicle, change, stow our bikes and hustle over to the finish line.

We hear the break has split and is now even further in front of the peleton. This has been a day of wind and advantage for the break.

The announcer at the finish line is great at building excitement and by the time the break crosses the finish line, the crowd is cheering madly.

Rohan Dennis

Rohan Dennis wins the stage

Rohan Dennis crosses first, wins the stage and is now the leader of the tour’s general classification. When the peleton rides in, the time difference is about 14 minutes.

End of the race

End of the race

This has been another exciting day for a couple of Tour of Alberta tag alongs. I hope the seniors we met in McDonalds had as good of a day I as did.

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Tour of Alberta – Stage 2 – Devon to Red Deer

Posted on September 6, 2013 by murray

It is always a good idea to have a ‘theme’ for a trip. It is easy to stay focused and gives a point of reflection for the events of each day. It makes for an easy trip when the theme is a given. Somebody decides to put on the Tour of Alberta bike race. We decide to follow, theme provided.

Today is the day we head out on the road, just like the peleton, which leaves from Devon this morning and will finish in Red Deer. Red Deer is too far for a day trip so we pack up the car with bikes and camping equipment and head south. Our goal is just north of Ponoka on highway 2A for the feed zone. Highway 2 is the fastest route, we drive it often heading towards Canmore or Calgary. We are not used to driving short distances on this 4 lane freeway and we blow by our intended turn off without even realizing it. In fact we are so far along we have to turn into Ponoka and backtrack along 2A. We still arrive at the feed about 45 minutes early.

It is time to chat with the behind the scene workers. The guys that drive here and there, pack the lunches the riders will pick up and eat on the fly, and assorted other duties that need to be attended to in order that the race team machine continues to function.  I chat with the lady from Smartstop, totally pleasant and seems to be enjoying life. I ask how hard it is to not get her arm taken off when a rider grabs a musette from her while passing by at 30km/hour. She tells me she is as steady as an oak and if anyone is going down it would be the rider so they had better learn how to do the job properly or it is their demise.

I try to speak to the Orica/Greenedge crew but they seem completely aloof. I speak to them in English and they ignore me. I say something else and the one guy’s response is in some other language. I do not get it and say ‘excuse me’, he repeats and I ask him ‘say again’ the other fellow says they are French.  They obviously understand me, they work for an English speaking team and must be able to communicate but choose not to, they are downright rude about it. I do not think they understand part of their job is public relations and like it or not they must be pleasant to the general public without whom their jobs would not exist.

Me being me, I am not dissuaded and stop to talk to the fellows putting together the feed bags for Belkin. Both super guys, one from Holland and one from Belgium. They travel the world doing their work, Europe of course, North America (they are here), China, Australia, Africa, Japan, wherever the team goes, they go. Pay is only OK but the benefits are very good.

By the Feed Zone

Debbie’s Note:  While Murray is chatting up the team crews, I am sitting on the shoulder further down the road contemplating. I am of two views about staying connected to the world. In one way it is serene to just sit and stare off across the fields watching the clouds and the long grasses dance in the breeze, listening to the grasshoppers and the wheat brushing against each other in the wind. The other side of me wants to know what is happening in the race. Where is the peleton? Is there a break? When will they arrive at the feed zone? To be connected to the world, or not? Serenity and not knowing or being up to date and knowing?

Peleton at Feed Zone

Peleton at Feed Zone

The peleton blasts through at 40 or 50 km/hr. They have a tailwind and the break is getting too far ahead. After all that lunch prep only 2 musettes are grabbed. Twenty people line up at the side of the road and the riders blow by. With no one interested in lunch we are totally unsuccessful at collecting any swag today. Oh well. When the bags are not taken by the riders the team cars make a quick stop and take the food on board to pass out to the riders on the move.  This to me looks twice as congested as when the riders themselves grab the loot.

Traffic Jam at Feed Zone

Traffic Jam at Feed Zone

We fall in behind the entourage and start our trip to the finish line. We try to out fox the line a couple of time but not knowing the back roads it is us that gets outfoxed. Once passed Ponoka and back on Highway 2 we make time and execute our plan to the letter, entering Red Deer as anticipated and finding a parking space 2 blocks from the finish.

Wow, is it crowded. Truck drivin’, bike hatin’ Alberta, where they fill 1/2 the highway shoulder with rumble strips impossible to ride on and the streets are packed to watch a bike race? It is a world class event and any world class event is worth a look see but I am really impressed by the numbers that have turned out to watch as skinny spandex clad young men aboard carbon fibre steeds hurl themselves at 50km/hr around the city streets. There are even people installed at most of the little highway pull outs or in the driveways sitting on lawn chairs patiently awaiting the 10 sec blur of color that is about to pass by.

The Blur

The Blur

The end of the race is again 3 laps of a 3km circuit in downtown and Red Deer has responded. The finish area is lined 2 deep and there is very little space. Debbie manages to secure a spot for us about 3M after the finish line and once ensconced we guard our space like it is gold, or chocolate, or Coke! One lapse of concentration and the tallest guy in the area will be standing between my camera and the spot where the winner will cross the line.

The Winner

The Winner

Today is one of those rare times when the break manages to fend off the chasers and they are able to finish about 30 seconds before the group makes their mad dash. It must have been a harder day than yesterday because the riders finish in dribs and drabs over the next few minutes.

We skip the podium ceremonies and go in search of the team buses and maybe a few autographs. Don’t know what we will do with them but it does give us a chance to talk to a few of the warriors. Most of the guys are super, some not so much but they seem enthusiastic about what they are engaged in.

One of the Continental Teams

One of the Continental Teams

The theme for this jaunt is the bike race. We are trying hard to see as many aspects of the race and the set up as possible. We have taken in a couple of feed zones and a couple of finishes. Tomorrow is one of the big hills and we intend to ride our bikes to the top and see who is going to collect the king of the mountain points. It is all downhill back to the finish where we will again witness the dash for the line.

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Tour of Alberta – Stage 1 – Sherwood Park to Camrose

Posted on September 4, 2013 by debbie

We start our Wednesday like we always do. In the pool. Our Coach, T, has us do sprint work, yet again. 100s and 50s today. A good workout to start a day to warm up to follow the Tour of Alberta to Camrose.

After swimming, we stop at home to pick up our lunch and drive to Ardrossan. It is exciting to see the tour go through the Ardrossan area, this is where we ride with our friends. We have chosen a tight corner at RR221A and Base Line Road. When we arrive, the only other person there is the marshal at the corner. Slowly the area fills with spectators. A train even rumbles by.

Tour of Alberta - Ardrossan Corner

Tour of Alberta – Murray waiting

We know the riders are getting close as more and more police, in cars and on motorbikes, stream by. Then, the break of 4 riders cruises around the corner. I am thrilled, there is a Jelly Belly rider amongst them. Jelly Belly is a continental team of young riders.

Then the peleton approaches and whizzes by. I am entranced by the colors of the jerseys on the groups of riders. Cannondale, protecting Peter Sagan is on the front, with Garmin-Sharp following closely behind then BMC.

Tour of Alberta - Ardrossan Corner

Tour of Alberta – Ardrossan Corner

The long line of team and neutral cars follows in the peleton;s wake.

1 ardrossan carWe jump in our car and rally race to our next destination – the feed zone. Murray navigates and I drive. It helps that we know the roads from riding on them and we are able to stay out of the congestion of other tour traffic.

1 feed zone sign

Feed Zone!

We strategically place ourselves on either side of the road further down from the end of the feed zone. We learned at the Tour de France, it takes more than a few meters for the riders to dig through their musettes for the goodies and then to toss the musettes away. Again, the break of 4 comes through and then the peleton.

Feed Zone - The Break

Feed Zone – The Break

Feed Zone - The Peleton

Feed Zone – The Peleton

Yahoo! We walk away with 3 musettes, one of which was tossed right at Murray, had a water bottle in it, and a hand full of gels, power bars and gummies.

On to our next destination – Camrose. We have more highway driving and the road is busy with tour support vehicles and spectators. We arrive, find a spot to park and walk to the main festival grounds.We meet J again. We met her at the Prologue yesterday. She travels to many of the races and knows alot of the cyclists by name.

1 Jo

J, from Ireland now living in Vancouver

We are surprised that the festival is so extensive and there are so many festival goers. We stop to ask about the route and chat with a lady who tells us the schools were closed all day so the children could attend the festival. Camrose has put on quite a party!

Camrose Spectator

Camrose Spectator?

We find a place to watch and suddenly the riders are again whizzing by. The break is swallowed up and it is looking like a group sprint for the finish line.

Camrose Circuit

Camrose Circuit

Peter Sagan sprints to the finish with Eric Young (Optum) and Moreno Hofland (Belkin) in second and third.

Tour of Alberta Stage 1 Finish Line

Stage 1 Finish Line

We stay to watch the awards and to procure a couple of autographs.

Peter Sagan

Peter Sagan

We chat to a couple of guys with the Jelly Belly team and are given little packs of…wait for it…..jelly beans! The Jelly Belly rider, Jeremy Powers, who was in the break was awarded the Most Aggressive Jersey today. Very friendly fellow and a wonderful ambassador for cycling.

 

Jeremy Powers

Jeremy Powers

A great day of tracking the Tour of Alberta and we will start again tomorrow with the feed zone north of Ponoka and either the hill east of Red Deer or the circuit in Red Deer. We then will drive to the Drumheller area, camp overnight and start again!

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Tour of Alberta – Prologue

Posted on September 3, 2013 by debbie

We have just returned from a fabulous time on Fortway Drive underneath the High Level Bridge, in Edmonton, watching the Prologue of the Tour of Alberta.

We arrive early and scope out the best spot on the hill for photographs. We choose a spot on a slight curve where we think the cyclists will come close to cut the corner for a more direct line up the hill. Shortly after we arrive, riders start to do warm up laps and groups come up the hill.

Tour of Alberta Prologue Warm Up

Tour of Alberta Prologue Warm Up

Murray gets a chance to practice taking shots. We think we have chosen a good spot as some of the riders come within 5 feet or less of us as they ride by.

David Millar warming up for the Prologue of the Tour of Alberta

David Millar warming up for the Prologue of the Tour of Alberta

Soon it is 6:15, the race marshals and a contingent of motorcycled police zoom by. Within minutes the first rider powers up the hill. The spectators send out a resounding cheer that follows the rider up the hill. Clapping, cheering, bell ringing all send up a cacophony of sound.

Some riders are on time trial bikes, some are on road bikes. The KOM (King of the Mountains) jersey is given to the rider who rides the fastest up the hill we are on and we are told that if a rider is trying to win the jersey, he will be on a road bike. If the rider is going for the overall time win, he will be on a time trial bike.

There are all sorts of spectators – kids, cyclists, teens, seniors, families and even a chipmunk, or is it a dog?

Prologue Spectators

Prologue Spectators

Mur, our friends R&A, and I cheer each rider as he spins by. We cheer a little more loudly for those riders that we are familiar with from the European Grand Tours.

Peter Sagan at the Tour of Alberta

The tour organizers astutely place Peter Sagan, Cadel Evans and, our fav, Ryder Hesjedal at the end of the Prologue Starting Order. We wait in anticipation of these 3 riders and before too long, they are climbing up the hill. First Peter, then Cadel….

Cadel Evans at the Tour of Alberta

Cadel Evans

And then Ryder….

Ryder Hesjedal at the Tour of Alberta

Ryder Hesjedal

 

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Tour of Alberta – Edmonton

Posted on September 3, 2013 by debbie

Tomorrow is going to be a stupendous day in Edmonton! Why? Because the Tour of Alberta begins its journey around our gorgeous province.

tour of alberta

The Tour of Alberta has been a dream of Alex Steida’s, the first North American to wear the yellow jersey in the Tour de France, who has resided in Edmonton for a long time. It has taken many years to arrive at this point in time and the cycling community is beside itself with joy!

Murray and I ride our bikes downtown this afternoon to Winston Churchill Square to check out the Festival taking place. There is live music, food vendors, bike shop booths and a plethora of other vendors. Earlier today there was a Family Ride supporting an organization called CASA (Child, Adolescent and Family Mental Health).

We ran into some cyclist friends and the buzz is where to go to watch the prologue and whether anyone had seen any of the cyclists. We have heard tales of spotting BMC out on the road, cyclists training on the hill for the Prologue and where some of the teams are staying.

Tomorrow we are going to watch the Prologue on Fortway Drive, underneath the High Level Bridge. Depending on the number of people out, we may wander up and down the hill to watch from various viewpoints.

Over the next six days, Murray and I will follow the Tour around Alberta and blog about our experiences.

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Mount Robson – Whitehorn and Out – Saturday, August 24, 2013

Posted on August 24, 2013 by murray

It is drizzling when we wake under Mount Robson. Pit pat pit pat. I love the sound the rain makes on the tent. It always sounds like it is pouring when in fact it is hardly raining at all. I emerge from our cocoon bum first and when my head is exposed I feel a few drops of very light rain. The weather in the mountains can change, for the worse or for the better in an instant and it does. The rain stops almost immediately. As I lug the breakfast fixings to the shelter the clouds begin to thin and soon the sun is peaking out. The day looks like it will be another good one.

We get up early so we are not in any kind of a rush. It takes us ½ hr. longer to pack up than our usual slow selves but we start out before 9. We are told by the ranger the route across the river delta is no longer flooded and we choose to stay on the level. As we walk along the rocky riverbed we look up and realize how much up and down on the forest trail we have bypassed. When passable this ‘shortcut’ saves a lot of effort and it is a different view of the world.

Re-entering the forest at the end of the bike trail we are soon at the Kinney Lake campground. We have not stopped even once yet, we still feel good and the draw of a cold Coke is causing me to pick up speed with every step. Debbie doesn’t complain at all as I think she is too busy trying to keep up knowing it is useless to complain when I have a Coke in my sights.

The 3 km to the ‘highway’ trail goes by quick, as we get closer to the parking lot the trail gets smoother and wider.  At the south end of Kinney Lake we cross a bridge and our feet hit the 4 km road to the bottom. The road has a negative elevation gain and we travel fast. Not stopping for even one rest the entire trek out we cross the bridge at the base in the opposite direction we crossed 5 days ago. It takes 2 hrs and 30 mins. from the time we started this morning. Certainly no West Coast Trail pace!

Beep, Beep, Click, Thump, Thump, Pop, Ssssss, Aaaaah. Ouch that fizz is hard on the throat after 5 whole days without.

The drive home is not too crowded.  A stop at Safeway for a few essentials, A & W for a quick supper and we are at home in time to utilize the remaining sunlight to dry out our damp gear. The sun that peaked out in the morning at Mount Robson is still following all the way home again.

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Mount Robson – Marmot Campground to Whitehorn Campground – Friday, August 23, 2013

Posted on August 23, 2013 by murray

We have had our moment at the top of the world and it is time to move on. The walk today is to Whitehorn campground on the same trail we traveled to get here. We awake to another sunny day, Robson’s peak is again clear, three in a row. As we exit the valley we turn for one last look at the beautiful bright white Berg and Mist Blaciers and the majestic Mount Robson, it is not likely we will return so we try to impress a permanent image in our minds.

The trail is crowded. Many people pass by on their way up to Berg Lake, it is Friday and the weekend crowd has arrived. The Alpine Club of Canada is having a celebration this weekend to mark the 100th anniversary of the establishment of the Mount Robson Provincial Park. They have lectures set for Friday and Saturday evening and there are several people going to try to climb the mountain to the top. This only adds to the number of people heading to Berg Lake today.

Our hike is reasonably easy, it is mostly downhill. Debbie is cautious and the going is slower on the really steep sections but we still make good time, traveling 8 km in 2 hrs 20mins and arriving at Whitehorn camp before noon. We have our choice of sites and end up at the same site we occupied on the up trip. Today seems to be the rest day we missed out on yesterday. Sitting in the campground shelter we make a few blog notes, do a crossword or two, read a few pages of the books we brought along and talk with hikers; both those heading up and those heading down. At about 3pm a few campers arrive and the tent sites begin to fill up.

Suspension Bridge at Whitehorn

Suspension Bridge at Whitehorn

The clouds have started to move in and with the intermittent sun it is cool in the bottom of the valley. Our tent is set a few meters up the slope and it is amazing how much warmer it is up there. I could not say what the difference is in degrees but it is noticeable. That being the case we move up soon after we have our supper.

Even with the clouds moving in we decide to camp the night. If it is raining in the morning we have an easy 11km hike to the car and will not have to figure out how to dry out. We will just stash the wet gear in the back of the Rav 4 and dry it out in our basement.

It is easy to get used to the simple life when backpacking. All of the worldly possessions are on our backs and the choices to be made are relatively few. I’m quite sure that after a few months the simple things would cause stress but for now it is very relaxing. Again here, as on the West Coast Trail, the people we meet are of like mind and we enjoy our many conversations. We retire early so we can get on the road and home to Edmonton before dark. Already the busy world has a wedge into our serenity of Mount Robson.

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Mount Robson – Berg Lake – Thursday, August 22, 2013

Posted on August 22, 2013 by debbie

Today is our “rest” day up at Berg Lake tucked in behind Mount Robson. Since we hiked to the toe of Robson Glacier yesterday, we plan to hike up the Mumm Basin Route, over to Hargreaves Lake and back down close to Marmot Campground.  We think it is a 10 to 12 km hike – some rest day! At least I will be hiking with no pack, unlike Murray who will have his backpack on with our rain gear, lunch and first aid kit inside.

The sky is almost cloudless and Mount Robson is glorious in the sunshine. Berg Lake is calm in the morning and we see small ice floes that have broken off the glacier during the night. We drink in the colour of the lake and the ice atop the mountain.

We hike towards Robson Pass  and meet three young guys from Brittany, France who are spending 6 weeks touring Canada. They are very friendly and willing to chat. We try to talk them into hiking part of the West Coast Trail since they are heading to Victoria next. After leaving them, we start up a steep path towards Mumm Basin. The forest hike keeps the views hidden and it is easy to concentrate on the task at hand – climbing almost straight up for about a kilometer. We finally pop up out of the trees and are stunned at the views. We are looking down onto Berg and Mist Glaciers and their lakes. We realize that Mist Glacier does have a lake at the toe of its glacier at the campground level it is hidden behind a very large terminal moraine.

We can see mountain ranges to the east and west of where we stand. The long range views remind us just how massive the mountains are.

Berg Glacier, Mist Glacier and Mount Robson

Berg Glacier, Mist Glacier and Mount Robson

We hike along varying surfaces – hard rock to soft forest floor. We notice the difference even through our hiking boots. As a note, I hike today in old hiking shoes, it is not necessary to have hiking boots to do this route. We pass through changing environments from forest to meadow to scree slope back to rock rubble and meadow. We talk loudly and I break into off key song to alert any bears that might have wandered up there during the night.

We lunch on a great round flat rock on the lee side of some trees, hidden from the wind, admiring the views and calling “hello” to other hikers passing by. Once we know other hikers have passed along our route we can be quite confident they have scared away any bears, I stop singing, Murray’s ears sigh with relief.

We cross Toboggan Creek upstream of the falls and the bridge crossing site shows off the smoothed and curvacious rock forms created from the swirl of water tumbling down the creek.

We hike towards Hargreaves Lake and Murray hikes up the moraine to take a peek. I sit to rest as I am nursing slightly sore knees and I know what’s coming the next day. Murray says that Hargreaves Lake is a big puddle of water and the glacier is quite large but has receded a long ways.

We start to descend through the rock rubble of the Hargreaves Glacier’s lateral moraine, finally reaching the forest where the ground is again very soft and the footing much better. The descent on this end is much shallower than the Mumm Basin end and I would recommend traveling in the same direction as we do. We reach the campground after about 6 hours with lots of stops to absorb the views.

Berg Lake is an awesome tourist spot. Even though there are loads of people up here, it doesn’t feel like a typical tourist spot, as Lake Louise say. The back country campsites are private, well maintained and comfortable. The only wildlife we encounter are ground squirrels and chipmunks (who tried to steal our lunch). The bugs are mostly non existent although there were these small flies that bite.

It has been another perfect day in the alpine with not a cloud in the sky, the glaciers continue their booming conversation, and the continuous din of the streams provide background noise much like the traffic in the city. Our eyes are overwhelmed by the visuals in very direction. Where else can we eat breakfast, lunch and supper with views of two glaciers and the majestic Mount Robson.

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