Tonder Music Festival

The festival gates open at noon today and when we walk through them at about 12:15, there is no line, no rush, just relaxed folks strolling around, sitting, eating  and drinking beer. Lots of beer. The site is huge. There is an Open Air Stage and three huge tents with large stages and tons of covered sitting and standing room.

We choose our first concert to go to in one of the smaller venues. The Visemollen, a 150 seat what looks to be an old mill. We listen to Coig, from Canada. Some back story first.

Last winter we went to see Coig at the Northern Light Folk Club in Edmonton, and they happened to mention that they would be going to Tonder in the summer. We knew then that we were also going, so after the show we spoke with Rachel from the band and told her we were also going. I said to her that we would find them at Tonder to say HI.

Coig was fantastic and a joy to listen to and watch. After the concert, we waited for the band to come out to the foyer and we talked to Rachel and reminded her of our conversation and she remembered. We wished each other a great weekend and all left with smiles.

Tonder Music Festival

One thing we have noticed about the scheduling of music at Tonder is that the music is spread out. There isn’t constant music like at the Edmonton Folk Music Festival. Each stage has set up/sound check time for each band, so there are gaps in between the bands playing. Also, it seems that when a band is playing at one of the large stages, the other large stages are quiet. So people mill about, with time to eat more and drink yet another beer.

The one thing that is completely different to what we are used to is the standing up for concerts. The standers are in front of the stage and the sitters are towards the back and sometimes to the side. This makes difficult for short people to see, the Danes seem to be rather tall. As the crowd has lots of grey hair, there are many sitters, including us. I am definitely not a stander.

Music highlights today were Coig and Jeffrey Foucault. Jeffrey is a country bluesy folksy singer and his band was tight. I’m impressed.

I wonder what tomorrow will bring?

 

 

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On The Road Into Tonder

Today we stand in the main square in Tonder.

Tonder Music Festival 2018

This is coming home with us!

Rise early, on the road at 8.09am and ride into Tonder before 1pm. No gravel today but most of the ride was on highway with no bike road and a shoulder that varied between 8″ and 1′. There are some jerks on the road, one van actually zoomed us but most of the folks gave us a wide berth when it was possible. Much like riding in Alberta these days. We did run into some folks from Germany that were not completely happy with Danish drivers saying German drivers are much more respectful of bicyclists.

Noticeable differences between today’s ride and the last few days. First the lack of a bike road. Until today we have spent very little time on the highway but today it is most of the ride.  The first 1/2 of the ride from Sonderborg has a much hillier profile then else where we have ridden to date. Mind you the last portion of the ride into Tonder is dead pan flat. The farm houses are not so tightly spaced. I’m guessing there are bigger farms in this area. And my favorite difference is the wind had abated. Most of the ride the only wind was the one we created ourselves. When mother nature blew it was not nearly as strong as the winds we have had every inch of the way till now. Debbie even road at the front for quite a while.

Windmill in Denmark

Windmill

As we left Sonderborg today we climbed a very reasonable grade of a hill. Makes sense as Sonderborg is at sea level and we are headed inland. On the very top of the climb is a very different windmill. One that 30 years ago would have been the only kind you might see but now is in the complete minority. It is now part of history. Probably was 30 years ago but with the literal 1000’s of the more modern electricity producing windmills this ancient predecessor is something for tourists to behold.

Solar Panel Field

Solar Panel Field

On the west side of the highway as we approach Tinglev is the biggest solar panel field we have seen live and in person. Acres and acres of solar panels installed on what was farmland. The decision was made that electricity is more important than food. After all we have enough food. And electricity is worth far more money than wheat or hay. I don’t think the people that made that decision were there when another group said ‘lets go full tilt on coal, I mean what harm can it cause’. They weren’t there when the next group said ‘let’s go full tilt on oil it is harmless and the way of the future’. I have no better solution and I should be dead by the time that particular land will be required to feed the people but I am quite sure the day will come. In the mean time I do need to charge my computer and camera.

We are in Tonder!

We are in Tonder!

Tonder is packed. The festival starts tomorrow and everyone is congregating. Before we arrived we wondered how such a small center could accommodate the numbers of people said to attend the event. 20,000 descend on a town of 7,900.  Maybe the surrounding towns fill up and folks drive in for the day or take the train or bus.

Tonder Music Festival

We go to get the wrist bands we will wear for the weekend and as we wander around the edge of the site we run across the camping area. There are hundreds of small travel trailers and a few tents parked within inches of each other. If half the folks are camping and each camp unit has two people that means there are 5000 units in the field. Hope it doesn’t rain or it will be hell to strike camp when the time comes.

We made it to Tonder!

We made it to Tonder! I need food!

As we walk down main street and observe the people we assume are here to listen to music we note there is one overwhelming prominent characteristic. They are all old. I think today was the first day of school for Danish children. It is the first time we have seen bikes at the school yard and school crosswalk patrollers standing at the corner with the stop signs in the ready position. So I am guessing this is not a family event. I also do not think having a solely senior customer base is as much of a problem in Europe as it is in North America. The population is much larger and there is always a large number of people entering the ranks of the aged to replace the ones that depart out the opposite end. Anyway we will see what the weekend brings when all the working stiffs have a couple of days off.

We made it and now the reason d‘etre is nye.

 

 

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On the Road to Tonder-what day is it?

I am sitting on the bed in the Sonderborg City Danhostel eating licorice and wishing for bedtime. Yeah, I’m pooped, again.

Murray indulges in an island delicacy this morning at breakfast in our hotel. Aero pandekager. He says it is really tasty, sorta like a small elephant ear we can buy at the exhibition. To me, it looks really good with icing sugar sprinkled on top and a bowl of mystery berry jam and I so want one!

Aero Countryside

Aero Countryside

We follow bike route 91 this morning from Marstal to Soby, where we are to catch the ferry. Rolling countryside, dairy farms, fields of wheat. Picturesque. We pass by the occasional table sitting by the road at the farm with jars of jam or honey for sale. All on the honour system with a little can to deposit the payment. We are tempted but our pannier space is all used up.

We ride along the coast for awhile and the ocean is a dark grey blue colour with sail boats whizzing along.

We turn inland again and encounter the steepest hill yet. Fortunately it was not too long and we were both able to stand up and peddle over it. Heart rates and breathing maxed out though! There are small villages dotting the countryside. The villages are maybe a grouping of two or three houses or farms. Many of the houses are joined to thier barns making it look like one big building. The island of Aero is known for its hiking and cycle routes and this portion lives up to the hype.

The sections of the road are gravel. Our view becomes what is in front of us down on the road as the surface is not ideal for stability. This part of the ride is hard and not so pleasant, but we remain upright and on pavement once again.

Oopsie!

We take some down time while waiting for the ferry and watch the excitement at the dock. A boat sitting at the dock toppled over and hit the pier with a loud bang. In no time there is a group of workers trying to right the boat before it sinks. Apparently the boat did not have an engine in it yet and it looks like there was some heavy something on the deck that may have unbalanced the boat. When righted it sat very high in the water so the stories we heard sound plausible.

Once off the ferry, we have 30 km to reach Sonderborg. We take a circuitous route to stay off the main road and get slightly lost and then found and then lost again but then do end up in Sonderborg. Funny how that happens! We always call out to each other “Bike Up!” when there is an approaching bike. Once I got to call out “Horse and Rider Up!” This portion of the ride was just a ride for me, get ‘er done. Sorry, Murray.

Tomorrow will be our longest ride. It is about 70 km to Tonder. Music awaits.

Goodbye Aero

Goodbye Aero

 

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On the Road to Tonder Day 3

The first two days we spent traversing the islands of Falster and Lolland. Both these islands are similar to home in many ways. Denmark is about the same latitude as Edmonton so the climate should be similar as well. The water moderates temperatures here but it is still around 20C as a norm. The trees are very much like ours, poplar, some sort of mapleish tree, a few fir trees. There are quite a few ‘wild’ fruit trees. All along the wooded sections of the bike trails there are patches of ripe cherries and apples laying about.

The land on both sides of the road is farmland. There are some animal farms but for the most part it looks like they grow hay and grain. The crops must ripen somewhat faster as they have already be swathed.

There are wasps here and they are bothersome just like home. Haven’t seen too many other bugs and they must be few as there is no screens on the windows.

One difference is the Danes don’t seem to use toasters. We have stayed at two places with kitchens so far and no toasters. In the first place I notice a fellow using the broiler to toast his bread so at the next place that is what I do. I think there may be an opportunity here. A wholesale toaster business. Toasters seem a lot less hassle than using a broiler to brown a couple pieces of toast.

Today was by far the best riding we have done. From Nakskov to the ferry at Tars we are routed along a paved country road. It is technically rush hour and we maybe saw 8 cars in 12km. It was then chill time on the ferry. Water is very much part of the Danish world and by default in modern times so are ferries.

Tars to Spodsbjerg Ferry

Tars to Spodsbjerg Ferry

We get off that ferry and traverse the island of Langeland. This is by far the hilliest terrain we have encountered. But again we are routed along a county lane and it is a great ride. We can use the highway to make time and even though the bike lane is a separate entity it is still noisy and lacks character. From what we see this island too is mostly farmland. It is purported to be very good for cycling and has a intricate network of bike routes.

We cross a very long but not too high bridge to the island of Tasinge. Here we are forced to ride along the freeway for a few kms but soon follow one of the national bike routes off into the wooded hills. This is the first forest we have encountered. A good part of it looks like it has been reforested as the trees grow in rather unnatural very straight lines but none the less it is definately not farmed and is quite a contrast to what we have passed through up to now.

This diversion also leads us to Valdemars Slot. Slot is Danish for castle. This estate was built by one of the kings in the 1600s but the king died in a war with Poland before it was finished. A couple of hundred years later it was given to one of the Danish army’s prominent people for his contribution to the war effort when things were not so friendly with Sweden. Pretty impressive digs.

Valdemars Slot

Valdemars Slot – a side building with road through it!

We then pass through a stunning village or maybe a town, Troense. It looks to me like a fancy resort town. Very upscale houses, two or three marinas and a laid back kind of feel. Only thing is I didn’t notice much tourist infrastructure. We have to make another ferry so we don’t spend enough time here but we do get a glimpse of a very nice place.

After another up and down bridge crossing. Bridges seem to be the steepest and longest hills here. We pass very quickly through Svendborg. We are completely absorbed in finding our way to the ferry dock and I can’t tell you weather the place is nice or not. But with only one wrong turn we do find the ferry dock.

75 mins. on ferry number two of the day and we land on the island of Aero. We have a time limit to make a ferry tomorrow so we decide to ride part of this island today. We get off the boat at Aeroskobing. Looks like a real interesting place. Very touristy, sort of like Banff. The streets are all cobbles. Real cobbles squarish stones laid side to side. Doesn’t make for good riding and the houses are all well kept and fairy tale like. It reminded me of Mykonos in Greece, with way more tourists wandering the street then locals. Another place we could well have spent more time but are only able to take in as we cycle through.

Our goal today is Marstal. This island is a tourist destination so we expect a lot of people. We don’t have a place to stay so that is a bit of a worry but there is always a park bench. We ride along part of national route number 92 and it is a super compacted gravelly path. The wind is finally at our back and we fly along enroute we pass through Ommel, a completely not tourist town on a tourist island. Worth the extra 3 or 4km diversion to peddle along their streets. In Marstal with luck we are directed to the tourist information office. The fellow there is extremely helpful and finds us a small hotel with a room and we are set for the night.

Marstal Beach House

The famous Marstal Beach House

We settle in then head for the ‘strand’, I think means beach or spit, to find the colorful beach houses this place is known for. A beach house is a very small building, maybe 8′ x 10′, with one room and a few seats. Most likely used to change into one’s bathing suit and to sit around on the beach on a cold or windy day.

The island we crossed today seems to be more refined than the last two. The bike paths are manicured, whereas the last two days they exist but are overgrown with weeds along the edges and have more patches of broken asphalt. The villages are a bit more upscale. The houses on Lolland and Falster were kept up and for the most part very tidy but the places we passed today looked manicured. We’ll have to see how things transpire over the next couples of day before we take a pause in Tonder.

Tall Ships moored in Marstal

Tall Ships moored in Marstal

 

 

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On the Road to Tonder Day 2

Murray is up early but I sleep until the alarm goes off at 7:00. I am still adjusting to this time zone and am spending a few hours awake in the middle of the night.

We eat breakfast, pack up and go. Sounds like a fast process but it takes us almost two hours. This should speed up as we get better at the morning routine and knowing what is in each pannier.

A lovely ride

A lovely ride

We ride from Maribo to Nakskov today on the island of Lolland. Denmark has many cycle routes and we are following routes number 7 and 8, which take us down a well used gravel lane bordered by trees. It is quite lovely riding through the trees and trying not to ride over fallen cherries and apples. We spy huge old and modern barns, large country estate houses and well kept horses, and a “You Pick” flower plot.

“You Pick” Flowers

“You Pick” Flowers

We eventually come to the water, part of the Baltic Sea. We attempt to ride the cycle route along the water, but it is so windy and the gravel so rough that I am managing only about 12 km/hr, so we bail at a path leading inland. We ride a busier road all the way to Nakskov,  it isn’t ideal,  but it gets us there. Our ride today is 55 km.

Nakskov

Nakskov

We are staying in a lovely newly renovated B & B just off the “downtown” area of Nakskov. It is quiet, kinda nice, as we are the only guests tonight and have the whole place to ourselves.

Saint Nikolai Church in Nakskov

Saint Nikolai Church in Nakskov

We take a walk and come across Saint Nikolai Church. A tall, massive red brick structure that was started to be built in 1240. Makes me realize just how young Edmonton, and Canada, is. Most of the houses are brick, as opposed to our wooden homes. The new roofs are metal and the old ones are either tile or grass, the latter not many.

We enjoy the views as they slowly roll past us. I wonder what tomorrow will bring.

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On the Road to Tonder

Glass on our KLM flight

Glass on our KLM flight….they must have known….

‘tun der’ or something close to that. We have asked several people how Tonder is pronounced and each person approaches it a little different. The one thing they all agree on is the ‘o’ is more or less a ‘u’ sound or in German an ‘o’ with an umlaut. Also I think they say the ‘d’ but it is very soft and quiet. Beyond that I have had everything from tuna to tuner. We’ll have to wait a few days to see how the locals say it.

Yesterday our plane was late. It left Edmonton two and a half hours late. We had a 2 hour and 20 minute connection to Copenhagen from Amsterdam which then turned into a 55 minute connection. Made it, and when we get off the plane in Copenhagen our bikes have made the connection as well.

One of the biggest sighs we got when we told people about our upcoming trip was when we mentioned we were going to take the train from the airport to downtown Copenhagen and then walk to the hotel with our luggage that included two bike boxes. The boxes are reasonably stable and have a good set of wheels so we didn’t see there was any problem. The luggage and bike boxes themselves are no problem but what we did not foresee was the number of people that are about. We made it and in fact easily but to maneuver the bikes in and around the crowds at the airport and the downtown train station in Copenhagen is quite a feat. Everyone is polite and everything but they have to give us a wide swath and room is usually at a premium.

Another minor problem, that comes about when walking with the luggage but it has nothing to do with the bikes at all. Instead it is the rolly suitcase that is the problem. It has small wheels and the sidewalks in Copenhagen are detailed with stripes of small cobbles. As long as those wheels are on the smooth concrete all is good, but as soon as I veer a little left or right and the tiny wheels do not roll over the cobbles and my forward progress would come to an instant halt with a heavy load trailing behind.

We read Denmark people embrace the bicycle but it is hard to believe the number of bikes that are in the racks at the central station and parked along the edge of the street. Anywhere where there is room enough to park a bike is taken. They are all locked, albeit with rather wimpy locks. Debbie and I were just discussing how many of those bikes have taken up permanent residence.

Copenhagen residents actually wait at stop lights. Not too much of a reach for us as in Edmonton people, also for the most part, do the same but most of the world ignores those little red motionless men and walk whenever the urge strikes. Last night I pull up to a corner and without thinking stop at a wait light. Two other folks joined me and did not move until the little green man appeared across the street.

Ready to ride!

Ready to ride!

We expected to put have our bikes together and ready to ride in about an hour and a half or two hours. As always the best laid plans go awry. First for some odd reason I had thought the tires I had just installed might be unidirectional. Which of course they are and not paying too close attention when I installed them just before we left the rear tires were not mounted correctly. So, we added two tire dismounts and remounts to the time. Then Debbie is pumping the front tire of one of the bikes and as she removes the pump the valve stem breaks and the tire will no longer hold air. One more tire change. One more change is required when we pinch a tube and put a hole in it. These take about and hour. In all it took close to 4 hours to assemble the bikes and we are dead by the end. We are now on the road with no spares. It is Saturday, the stores close at 1pm, do not open on Sunday so Monday will be our first chance to buy a spare.

Saturday is a lot slower than Friday was. There is little traffic downtown Copenhagen and the train station is only 1/2 full. After missing an earlier train we actully catch the one we originally thought we would and the first hour and a half of our journey is easy to Vordingborg.

Drawbridge opened to let two sail boats through

Drawbridge opens to let two sail boats through

The folks here are really friendly and jump right in to help when they see us with a dilemma. We arrive at our stop get out of the train and the platform is on story below street level. There is no elevator. Weird because the platform on the other side of the tracks has a lift. I now know why it is important to be for the ‘right side of the tracks’. A man behind Debbie sees she is in a bind and picks up the back of her bike and helps her up the entire flight of stairs, no questions asked.

Maribo, Denmark

Maribo, Denmark….our first stop.

Riding here so far is easy. We travel 30 plus km. along side a highway today and the entire time we are in an adjacent bike only roadway. It is not maintained to perfection but is most certainly ride-able and way better then dodging traffic. The thing that is a bit hard to take is the wind. It is relentless and when touring on a bike you don’t get 1/2 the ride against it and 1/2 with it. Today and for the next four days it is in our noses, gusty and strong. This makes for slow travel but today we get to where we intended and I am quite sure we can make the other destinations we have outlined as well.

We must be in Tonder by next Wednesday so the incentive is big. Then we will be able to learn how to pronounce ‘Tonder’ correctly.

Definitely not have carry on will travel

Definitely not have carry on will travel (Photo by BH)

 

 

 

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Travel Mode

Murray and I have a verbal cue when we usually get to the first boarding gate as we embark on a long trip. It is “Travel Mode”, which means relax, we can handle anything that is thrown at us, go with the flow, we will get there.

Today, we have to cue into Travel Mode before we have even left the house. An email arrived about an hour ago saying our KLM flight has been delayed two and a half hours. Breathe in and slowly out. That means we have missed our connection in Amsterdam to Copenhagen and we are arriving in Copenhagen much later than we wished.

The plan when we reach Copenhagen is to take the train from the airport to the Central Train Station, buy train tickets for the next day to Vordingborg, walk to the hotel, rebuild our bikes, pack our panniers and then sleep. Now we have a much shorter time to do all that in.

We are headed to the Tonder Music Festival in southern Denmark. We have five days to ride there, island hopping along the way. We have laid out our route and where we are staying each night to ensure we arrive in Tonder on Sept 22, the day before the music starts. We may be adjusting this plan depending on what happens in the next 36 hours.

Stay tuned and remember………Travel Mode.

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Australia Photos

We have posted photos of Australia before and this trip was strictly a “visit the kids” trip so the photos are mostly of family, therefore I have not posted them into the blog. We do have a series of photos of two wallabies sparring that was quite humorous to watch and I thought I would share them.

wallabies sparring australia

wallabies sparring australia

wallabies sparring australia

wallabies sparring australia

And a little more friendly and cuddly.

koala australia

koala australia

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Fiji and Solomon Islands Photos are Posted!

Surprise! I have finally loaded photos of Fiji and Solomon Islands into the blog.

Fiji

To view photos, hover over “Photos”, in the main menu bar, until the drop down menu appears. Click on “Fiji 2018” and then “Solomon Islands” in the drop down menu. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show.

I cannot seem to put descriptions on each photo, so if you have questions about any of the photos, please send me a note.

Enjoy!

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Swim Across the Lake, Kelowna, BC

Debbie has been wanting and planning to swim across Lake Okanagan for 5 years. Today the plan is implemented. 2.1KM from the old ferry dock on the west side of lake to the main park in downtown Kelowna. 1300 people swim this year. It is a well run event. Similar to a fun run. It is a personal challenge to do it. Looking across the Okanagan, it seems doable but not one of those things you might just jump in the water and do it. Then again this swim is not the shortest route from across. The start is somewhat north of the big bridge and the finish is adjacent to it so we end up swimming at a diagonal.

Swim Across the Lake in Kelowna

I am seeded in a earlier wave than Debbie and B and swim pretty much alone for the entire distance. Had never swum in a wet suit before and it is fast. I thought I did pretty well. I sat next to an Across the Lake Swim veteran on the bus to the start and he said he believed the wet suit measured to a 20% advantage. In fact I am 20% faster than I am in the pool without a suit. It is also a constant swim and I am terribly slow on the turns in a pool so that also works to my advantage. I end up in the to 1/4 of the entire field and the top 1/3 of the 60 to 69 male group. So that age thing I was talking about in the last post could be lagging in the swimming department. Don’t know if we will be able to make next year’s event but if we do I already have some improvement in the strategies I will apply. The siting markers suggested by the organizers I think sent everyone on a bit of an arc and I believe I could set a better course with a slight adjustment to the first marker. We also did not have to arrive at 6am. We did a lot of standing around. We planned carefully the night before and all went as planned. We could sleep a extra 1/2 hour or so as long as there are no glitches.

Debbie here. B and I start our swim 2 waves after Murray. B is nervous but we have a plan to swim side by side so we can see one another and I am close, just in case. The start is a water start. We jump off the dock into rather shallow water and swim slowly to the starting buoys. We hang in the water for about a minute before the count down and we are off.

Our plan is to start off really slowly to make sure our breathing stays under control, which we accomplish. I get into a rhythm and just swim and sight on the mountain across the lake and every time I breathe to the left, check for B. We maintain this until about 2/3 across the lake where it gets choppy. In the choppiness we drift apart more but I keep tabs on my friend.

The choppy water makes sighting much harder. We are close enough now to sight on the finish arch but with the chop, sometimes it is obscured by water as I look up. We make a course direction change to aim more to the arch and the last couple of hundred meters are hurting.

Swim Across the Lake in Kelowna

Once we are touching the sand with our fingers, we stand up and try to run to the timing mat. B and I manage to get the exact same time. It was a great swim, B did wonderfully and overcame her nerves, and I would do it again. I have wanted to do this swim for years and am glad I finally did it, and on my birthday too!

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