On the Road to Tonder Day 2

Murray is up early but I sleep until the alarm goes off at 7:00. I am still adjusting to this time zone and am spending a few hours awake in the middle of the night.

We eat breakfast, pack up and go. Sounds like a fast process but it takes us almost two hours. This should speed up as we get better at the morning routine and knowing what is in each pannier.

A lovely ride

A lovely ride

We ride from Maribo to Nakskov today on the island of Lolland. Denmark has many cycle routes and we are following routes number 7 and 8, which take us down a well used gravel lane bordered by trees. It is quite lovely riding through the trees and trying not to ride over fallen cherries and apples. We spy huge old and modern barns, large country estate houses and well kept horses, and a “You Pick” flower plot.

“You Pick” Flowers

“You Pick” Flowers

We eventually come to the water, part of the Baltic Sea. We attempt to ride the cycle route along the water, but it is so windy and the gravel so rough that I am managing only about 12 km/hr, so we bail at a path leading inland. We ride a busier road all the way to Nakskov,  it isn’t ideal,  but it gets us there. Our ride today is 55 km.

Nakskov

Nakskov

We are staying in a lovely newly renovated B & B just off the “downtown” area of Nakskov. It is quiet, kinda nice, as we are the only guests tonight and have the whole place to ourselves.

Saint Nikolai Church in Nakskov

Saint Nikolai Church in Nakskov

We take a walk and come across Saint Nikolai Church. A tall, massive red brick structure that was started to be built in 1240. Makes me realize just how young Edmonton, and Canada, is. Most of the houses are brick, as opposed to our wooden homes. The new roofs are metal and the old ones are either tile or grass, the latter not many.

We enjoy the views as they slowly roll past us. I wonder what tomorrow will bring.

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On the Road to Tonder

Glass on our KLM flight

Glass on our KLM flight….they must have known….

‘tun der’ or something close to that. We have asked several people how Tonder is pronounced and each person approaches it a little different. The one thing they all agree on is the ‘o’ is more or less a ‘u’ sound or in German an ‘o’ with an umlaut. Also I think they say the ‘d’ but it is very soft and quiet. Beyond that I have had everything from tuna to tuner. We’ll have to wait a few days to see how the locals say it.

Yesterday our plane was late. It left Edmonton two and a half hours late. We had a 2 hour and 20 minute connection to Copenhagen from Amsterdam which then turned into a 55 minute connection. Made it, and when we get off the plane in Copenhagen our bikes have made the connection as well.

One of the biggest sighs we got when we told people about our upcoming trip was when we mentioned we were going to take the train from the airport to downtown Copenhagen and then walk to the hotel with our luggage that included two bike boxes. The boxes are reasonably stable and have a good set of wheels so we didn’t see there was any problem. The luggage and bike boxes themselves are no problem but what we did not foresee was the number of people that are about. We made it and in fact easily but to maneuver the bikes in and around the crowds at the airport and the downtown train station in Copenhagen is quite a feat. Everyone is polite and everything but they have to give us a wide swath and room is usually at a premium.

Another minor problem, that comes about when walking with the luggage but it has nothing to do with the bikes at all. Instead it is the rolly suitcase that is the problem. It has small wheels and the sidewalks in Copenhagen are detailed with stripes of small cobbles. As long as those wheels are on the smooth concrete all is good, but as soon as I veer a little left or right and the tiny wheels do not roll over the cobbles and my forward progress would come to an instant halt with a heavy load trailing behind.

We read Denmark people embrace the bicycle but it is hard to believe the number of bikes that are in the racks at the central station and parked along the edge of the street. Anywhere where there is room enough to park a bike is taken. They are all locked, albeit with rather wimpy locks. Debbie and I were just discussing how many of those bikes have taken up permanent residence.

Copenhagen residents actually wait at stop lights. Not too much of a reach for us as in Edmonton people, also for the most part, do the same but most of the world ignores those little red motionless men and walk whenever the urge strikes. Last night I pull up to a corner and without thinking stop at a wait light. Two other folks joined me and did not move until the little green man appeared across the street.

Ready to ride!

Ready to ride!

We expected to put have our bikes together and ready to ride in about an hour and a half or two hours. As always the best laid plans go awry. First for some odd reason I had thought the tires I had just installed might be unidirectional. Which of course they are and not paying too close attention when I installed them just before we left the rear tires were not mounted correctly. So, we added two tire dismounts and remounts to the time. Then Debbie is pumping the front tire of one of the bikes and as she removes the pump the valve stem breaks and the tire will no longer hold air. One more tire change. One more change is required when we pinch a tube and put a hole in it. These take about and hour. In all it took close to 4 hours to assemble the bikes and we are dead by the end. We are now on the road with no spares. It is Saturday, the stores close at 1pm, do not open on Sunday so Monday will be our first chance to buy a spare.

Saturday is a lot slower than Friday was. There is little traffic downtown Copenhagen and the train station is only 1/2 full. After missing an earlier train we actully catch the one we originally thought we would and the first hour and a half of our journey is easy to Vordingborg.

Drawbridge opened to let two sail boats through

Drawbridge opens to let two sail boats through

The folks here are really friendly and jump right in to help when they see us with a dilemma. We arrive at our stop get out of the train and the platform is on story below street level. There is no elevator. Weird because the platform on the other side of the tracks has a lift. I now know why it is important to be for the ‘right side of the tracks’. A man behind Debbie sees she is in a bind and picks up the back of her bike and helps her up the entire flight of stairs, no questions asked.

Maribo, Denmark

Maribo, Denmark….our first stop.

Riding here so far is easy. We travel 30 plus km. along side a highway today and the entire time we are in an adjacent bike only roadway. It is not maintained to perfection but is most certainly ride-able and way better then dodging traffic. The thing that is a bit hard to take is the wind. It is relentless and when touring on a bike you don’t get 1/2 the ride against it and 1/2 with it. Today and for the next four days it is in our noses, gusty and strong. This makes for slow travel but today we get to where we intended and I am quite sure we can make the other destinations we have outlined as well.

We must be in Tonder by next Wednesday so the incentive is big. Then we will be able to learn how to pronounce ‘Tonder’ correctly.

Definitely not have carry on will travel

Definitely not have carry on will travel (Photo by BH)

 

 

 

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Travel Mode

Murray and I have a verbal cue when we usually get to the first boarding gate as we embark on a long trip. It is “Travel Mode”, which means relax, we can handle anything that is thrown at us, go with the flow, we will get there.

Today, we have to cue into Travel Mode before we have even left the house. An email arrived about an hour ago saying our KLM flight has been delayed two and a half hours. Breathe in and slowly out. That means we have missed our connection in Amsterdam to Copenhagen and we are arriving in Copenhagen much later than we wished.

The plan when we reach Copenhagen is to take the train from the airport to the Central Train Station, buy train tickets for the next day to Vordingborg, walk to the hotel, rebuild our bikes, pack our panniers and then sleep. Now we have a much shorter time to do all that in.

We are headed to the Tonder Music Festival in southern Denmark. We have five days to ride there, island hopping along the way. We have laid out our route and where we are staying each night to ensure we arrive in Tonder on Sept 22, the day before the music starts. We may be adjusting this plan depending on what happens in the next 36 hours.

Stay tuned and remember………Travel Mode.

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Australia Photos

We have posted photos of Australia before and this trip was strictly a “visit the kids” trip so the photos are mostly of family, therefore I have not posted them into the blog. We do have a series of photos of two wallabies sparring that was quite humorous to watch and I thought I would share them.

wallabies sparring australia

wallabies sparring australia

wallabies sparring australia

wallabies sparring australia

And a little more friendly and cuddly.

koala australia

koala australia

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Fiji and Solomon Islands Photos are Posted!

Surprise! I have finally loaded photos of Fiji and Solomon Islands into the blog.

Fiji

To view photos, hover over “Photos”, in the main menu bar, until the drop down menu appears. Click on “Fiji 2018” and then “Solomon Islands” in the drop down menu. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show.

I cannot seem to put descriptions on each photo, so if you have questions about any of the photos, please send me a note.

Enjoy!

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Swim Across the Lake, Kelowna, BC

Debbie has been wanting and planning to swim across Lake Okanagan for 5 years. Today the plan is implemented. 2.1KM from the old ferry dock on the west side of lake to the main park in downtown Kelowna. 1300 people swim this year. It is a well run event. Similar to a fun run. It is a personal challenge to do it. Looking across the Okanagan, it seems doable but not one of those things you might just jump in the water and do it. Then again this swim is not the shortest route from across. The start is somewhat north of the big bridge and the finish is adjacent to it so we end up swimming at a diagonal.

Swim Across the Lake in Kelowna

I am seeded in a earlier wave than Debbie and B and swim pretty much alone for the entire distance. Had never swum in a wet suit before and it is fast. I thought I did pretty well. I sat next to an Across the Lake Swim veteran on the bus to the start and he said he believed the wet suit measured to a 20% advantage. In fact I am 20% faster than I am in the pool without a suit. It is also a constant swim and I am terribly slow on the turns in a pool so that also works to my advantage. I end up in the to 1/4 of the entire field and the top 1/3 of the 60 to 69 male group. So that age thing I was talking about in the last post could be lagging in the swimming department. Don’t know if we will be able to make next year’s event but if we do I already have some improvement in the strategies I will apply. The siting markers suggested by the organizers I think sent everyone on a bit of an arc and I believe I could set a better course with a slight adjustment to the first marker. We also did not have to arrive at 6am. We did a lot of standing around. We planned carefully the night before and all went as planned. We could sleep a extra 1/2 hour or so as long as there are no glitches.

Debbie here. B and I start our swim 2 waves after Murray. B is nervous but we have a plan to swim side by side so we can see one another and I am close, just in case. The start is a water start. We jump off the dock into rather shallow water and swim slowly to the starting buoys. We hang in the water for about a minute before the count down and we are off.

Our plan is to start off really slowly to make sure our breathing stays under control, which we accomplish. I get into a rhythm and just swim and sight on the mountain across the lake and every time I breathe to the left, check for B. We maintain this until about 2/3 across the lake where it gets choppy. In the choppiness we drift apart more but I keep tabs on my friend.

The choppy water makes sighting much harder. We are close enough now to sight on the finish arch but with the chop, sometimes it is obscured by water as I look up. We make a course direction change to aim more to the arch and the last couple of hundred meters are hurting.

Swim Across the Lake in Kelowna

Once we are touching the sand with our fingers, we stand up and try to run to the timing mat. B and I manage to get the exact same time. It was a great swim, B did wonderfully and overcame her nerves, and I would do it again. I have wanted to do this swim for years and am glad I finally did it, and on my birthday too!

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Getting Old? Smelling the Roses

The roses are smelling stronger. We keep seeing smaller and less significant things. Flowers on the side of the trail. Clouds that look like a zeppelin or a dog chasing a rabbit or something.

Little Fort Ferry

On the way to Vernon and the swim across Okanagan Lake in Kelowna I notice a very small sign on the side of the highway stating there is a provincial ferry that crosses the Thompson River at Little Fort. Debbie has a quick look at our PAPER map and notices there is a road on the other side of the river that would meet up with the highway again 30 or so kilometers on in Barriere. We discuss and quickly decide to stop at the ferry and ask about the road. The young lady ferry operator tells me it is gravel and would take maybe 45 minutes. We throw caution to the wind and choose the gravel road. I think it is the right choice. The scent of rose is super strong.

Dunn Lake

Dunn Lake

The road is almost gravel. It was maybe graded last November so the going is slow which allows for a bit more sight seeing, at least for the passenger. We skirt a wonderful alpine lake, Dunn Lake, for about 1/2 an hour. Shortly there after we are back in the Thompson River valley and passing backcountry farms. We are soon in Barriere and joining in the crowds of cars that had started their trip south since we left the highway. We had passed 2 vehicles the entire time on the gravel trail and now we have to join the rat race once more.

Dunn Lake

Dunn Lake

I remember when I was in my late teens and twenties doing stuff like that. See a pending adventure and head off without much planning to explore what might await us. Then conservative, always in a rush, middle age crept in and we would chose a well planned, efficient route to what ever we were doing. I turned 65 the other day and I think that means I am officially old. Funny how things seem to be reverting back to a younger time. If it continues I will soon be spending late nights watching live music into the wee hours of the morning.

Dunn Lake

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Coyote Pups, Pelicans and Two 50 km Rides

Yesterday, after our walk in Dinosaur Provincial Park, we drove into Brooks to buy gas. On the way I spied three puppies in a field. Mur braked, turned the SUV around and we had a closer look. They were coyote pups with no mom around. Cute fellas. Two didn’t like us so close so they headed into some bushes near a barbed wire fence, but the last one was more interested in eating something off the ground. He eventually noticed his litter mates gone and us watching him, so he also trotted into the bushes. What a treat!

Coyote Pup

Just outside of Brooks we saw our first solar field. Row upon row of solar panels. Basking in the sun working on their tan.

Today we both want to ride 50 km. We are traveling home so the plan is for Murray to ride from the campground, turn north on Hwy 876 and go until he reaches 50 km. After he leaves, I hang around for about 45 minutes, then hop in the SUV and chase him down. It took awhile as the wind was cooperating and blowing from the south-east, so was pushing him along. I then leapfrogged with him until he rode just over 50 km.

Then it was my turn. I take off as soon as Murray catches his breath. The wind is definitely a help. Pushing a large gear on those sections that are slightly downhill and with the wind. WHEEEEE! I say Hello to all the horses and cows I see in fields. I spot one little calf as I pass and I realize he is on my side of the barbed wire fence and his Mom is on the proper side of the fence. He did not look happy, and I am sure his Mom was not happy either. Poor guy.

Murray leap frogs me, but keeps a little closer to me as per my request. After one of the last leaps, he goes to start the SUV and it doesn’t start. OH-OH. Now what does he do! He flags down a friendly motorist driving a truck and pulling a trailer, explains that the starter might be shot and could they drive ahead and find me and ask me to turn around and ride back. The fellow suggests that they try boosting our vehicle’s battery first. BRAVO! That worked! So off they both go to find me. Meanwhile, I am approaching km 42 and I know Murray was supposed to meet me at km 40. Where is he? He zooms by, parks and as I pull up to him, the friendly motorist drives by and honks Good Bye. Dodged that one! We intersect Hwy 36, a much busier road at km 46.5 so I pull the plug on my ride. Close enough to 50 for me. A good ride today.

Pelicans Fishing

On our drive back we decide to drive through Hanna, where I lived for a period in the early 1980’s. Just entering the town, we spy a flock of white birds swimming in formation on a large pond. We go investigate and realize they are pelicans swimming in a U shape. The lead birds then paddle inwards to make an O and then all the birds dip their beaks and heads, in unison, into the water to fish. It looks like an exquisite ballet. Another great treat!

Pelicans Fishing

A great few days camping, enjoying the hot weather, spying critters we don’t normally see, checking out the dinosaurs and riding.

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Bugs

Campground cleared out today. By the time we got out of the tent at 7am 1/2 of last nights guests had packed and left. By noon we were the only ones in our end. Seems like Wednesday is the crossover day because tomorrow people will come so they don’t miss out on a spot for the weekend.

Big day for us. We hike all the trails this place has to offer before noon. It is possible to take a car and drive from trailhead to trailhead but we tough it out on foot. The temp is hot and we are in a canyon but it is still an OK walk, maybe 6 km in total. I’m glad it isn’t any farther because I am tagged by the time we get back to camp.

Each trail has it own theme. The topic of the first one we walk is the ecosystem of the river valley. How the predominant tree, the cottonwood, (I think they are poplar trees) takes root and lives on the flood plains near the river. The info boards tell how the vegetation changes the father from the river one gets and explains ‘the badlands’ that are prevalent before the land rises up and levels off into endless prairie.

The signs posted along the second trail tell stories of the expeditions that spent copious amounts of time traversing the Red Deer river valley in search of dinosaur bones. They seemed to be quite successful in their quest.

The final trail is into the badlands. A short trip around and few hummocks and hoo doos. Before we started I thought this would be the most interesting of the three but found it the least informative.

Hot, sweaty, and tired we returned to camp.

An addendum to yesterdays hypothesis’ regarding the comparison between the ocean and the forest. Bugs are a sequel to plankton. They float around in great numbers in aimless patterns, are attracted to light and are consumed by birds, similarly fish live off plankton. The numerous birds here are happy because there are a lot of trees to roost in and there are tons of bugs to live off.

When we travel to far flung places we are always warned of the how many bugs there are in the tropics. How malaria is present 12 months of the year and 24/7. When we arrive there are a few bugs and different bugs, like cockroaches, and we do get a few mosquito bites but there are never as many bugs as we have here in our temperate climate where the winters get cold enough no self respecting bug would survive but come spring and summer you can’t sit in the outdoors without being overwhelmed by persistent flies, or ear buzzing mosquitos. I am sitting right now cursing the little black things that fly right into my eyes. Why eyes???? After they drown and I try to rub them out they break into a hundred bits and it takes two days to get all the parts out.

It is still only mid June but this place sure is peaceful. Except for the bugs I think it is an excellent place to camp. We have done just about all there is to do here so would not come back for the ‘dinosaur experience’ but to spend a couple of chill days it would suit quite well.

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Local Camping Trip

When we can avoid Hwy 2 to get to where we want to go, we do. There are several roads that go south to Dinosaur Provincial Park, our destination for a few days. We have traversed Hwy 21 quite a few times going and coming from Lethbridge so to go to Dinosaur Park we thought Hwy 56 would be something different. As we go south there are recognizable land marks and we both realize we had been this way before. I always remember how straight it is and I draw the driving card for the straight part. There are a couple of bends just south of Stettler then it is dead arrow straight except for one “s” bend 60 km south all the way to Drumheller. 80 km of hwy with no movement of the steering wheel. I remember taking a group of Nova Scotians down this road and they could not believe it. At home, they told us, there is not a straight stretch of more than a kilometre.

Don’t expect to see much wildlife on a daytime trip across the prairies but yesterday we saw 5 deer. They didn’t seem to be in much of a rush to get anywhere. Guess it is not hunting season and humans do not institute much of a threat. They were quite pretty animals. Looked to be eating well. Their fur was shiny and a beautiful tawny colour. Always nice to see animals.

As far south as we were going and we have to head east for 70 or 80 kms. A short stint of 15 kms on Hwy 1 and then onto secondary hwys again. The fields are just turning green and the landscape rolls and dips as we go. Then, in the middle of the field are numerous boxes. Maybe 4 ft high, 10 ft long and 3 ft deep. They are all lined in rows and evenly spaced across the field. Then another field the same, and another, and another. Then a field with some kind of plastic dome structure 6ft in diameter and 5 ft high. All in a line and evenly spaced. We wondered what they were. Speculating UFO installations, deer shelters and really had no idea. I thought we should stop at one of the farm houses and ask. Further down the highway we blew by a shelter with a sign on it that said “Information”. It took a few seconds at 100 km/hr to process but I finally did and since the hwy was not busy I slammed on the brakes, put her into reverse and backed up to the pull off. Seems the folks around here are seriously into Alfalfa Cutter Bees and all those shelters are man made hives. I guess they can use the left over alfalfa for horse feed or beer making or whatever alfalfa is used for.

Arrived at the campground after the office closed last night. There is a self registration kiosk and we knew how to use that but there is a cryptic message about how to find a site and that it may be reserved and there is no way to know and show up at the office at 9am to find out if you have to move. We did. I think it was the only site that was reserved last night that the reservees had not be installed yet we managed to choose it. So this morning we move. Not hard, our tent is self supporting so the move is easy but we get quite a bit of sun mid day, the wind tempers the heat but the sun is still intense.

Moving delayed our ride. We are in Southern Alberta and the wind blows strong. The earlier in the day one can ride the better. 10am start and the flags are drooping. A 1/2 hour in and the wind is pushing us along at a real good clip. A few corners we alternate with the wind and agin her. It really wasn’t that hard to ride into but we sure road fast with the wind. With a little luck our next ride on the trip home will be all down wind.

Here we sit in the shade with poplar snow falling all around us. We note several other types of trees. And the birds, there are a plethora of them and many different types. We have often wondered how we can be so enamoured with the undersea world and there should be just a much to see and observe in the world we inhabit. The trees in some ways mirror the coral and the birds the fish. There are of course a few differences, we can hear the sounds birds make and if fish make noise it is inaudible to us. There are also some similarities. Birds use the fluid of the air to travel and fish use the water. The coloration of fish is what the rainbow has to offer, although some birds can be boring, the sequel to the big silver fish, there are many attractive and colourful varieties as well. Guess I have just gained a slightly better appreciation of ‘birding’, something I have never really understood. Maybe some day soon I will get train-spotting or airplane-spotting two more things that have to be explained to me.

Quiet place this Dinosaur Provincial Park. We have been to many campgrounds with parties at night and getto blasters all day but here we can hear the water in the creek, the birds talking to each other from tree to tree and the wind as it blows through. I think I can remember this type of camping when we were kids raising hell and were probably the noisiest thing in the campground. It is peaceful and it makes one want to do this again.

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