Tokyo

Posted on October 10, 2019 by murray

Tokyo is not a very photogenic place. We have traveled around town by foot and subway for 3 very long days and I have taken maybe 100 photos. Most of which are just a record of the places we have passed by. The cityscape is quite bland and there are not too many things that are worth lifting the lens for. I did take a few pics today as we passed by the Imperial Palace and gardens. Debbie and I then traversed the absolutely boring financial district on our way home. I didn’t even take my camera out of my bag.

Tokyo Imperial Palace Grounds
Tokyo Imperial Palace Grounds

The train/subway system here was set up over time and the concessions were awarded to many different companies. They generally work together and the transit passes work on all lines but it is a very clumsy way to operate things. The connections even at the ‘same’ station are long and circuitous. The route from one point to another is often piecemeal. It is often a long walk from where one stands to the train route that will get you to where you are going.

Street furniture is rare here. I’m guessing it is to discourage loitering. There are plenty of benches in parks but there is not an over abundance of them either. In fact there seems to be a lack of chairs with backs in general. Our hotel room has sit on the floor cushions with chair backs but no legs. The breakfast room has stools with no backs. Most of the eating establishment we have been in have stools. The subway does have proper seating. For back support we have been using the hotel room walls.

We were warned Japan is a cash society. When our on site connection mentioned this I upped the amount of cash we ordered from our bank at home. Still I expected Tokyo to be credit card enabled. SURPRISE! Most food establishments in the big city are cash only. The biggest shock is some of the ‘tourist attractions’ do not accept credit cards. Debbie and I have taken to touring the city we are in by way of the river. The river boat in Tokyo which is basically supported by tourists will only accept cash. The transit cards can be topped up at machines but the machines have no way to insert a card and must be fed bills. On the upside to this Japan is not as expensive as we had been led to believe and if we are careful we will have enough liquid funds to survive our trip.

Tokyo Imperial Palace Grounds
Tokyo Imperial Palace Grounds

A bit of a disclaimer. The comments do seem negative but that is not how I meant it to be. My intention was rather to give my impressions. Neither good nor bad, just that is the way things are.

Tonight we sit with the knowledge a category 5 typhoon is about to make landfall near Tokyo. Some people seem to be somewhat panicky with the news. We have decided to remain calm and stick to our plan. We have no control over many aspects of the near future and if our plans get interrupted we will adjust as necessary. In the mean time we wait.

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Impressions of Tokyo

Posted on October 9, 2019 by murray

Debbie and I have ordered beef yakiniku at a Japanese restaurant at home, it is beef served with sesame sauce and rice. Yakiniku is just the way the meat is cooked, basically it is a Japanese BBQ. Last night we headed to a restaurant whose specialty is BBQ. It would seem by the menu, Japan and North America could have a symbiotic relationship over the use of an animal for food. The Japanese would use all the ‘innards’ and the ‘muscle’ part would be shipped to NA. The menu of most restaurants here is posted in large pictorial displays on the exterior. Some are pictures only, some have Japanese characters and some include prices. There are even a few with English attached. Thankfully the place we headed to last night had English appended on each item. The wall sized menu included exactly one item Debbie and I would have eaten. The wording is descriptive enough that we instantly knew what we were about to get into. “Beef, pork and chicken innards with rice” is one of the translations. There were 20 plus other choices none of which I would even venture to try. The one thing I would have eaten was I believe noted as “sirloin” and I think that meant the part of the cow Canadians mostly indulge in. We went for sushi!

Tokyo

We survived our first earth quake last night. Our room is on the 5th floor of a small hotel. It is 5am and the Ring of Fire lives up to its reputation, the building starts to shake, but only for a few seconds. Either we have a Sumo wrestler in the room next door or the ground is moving. I’m going with the latter.

Tokyo

Tokyo is turning out to be quite tourist friendly. We have a paper map but there are so many streets it is not possible to include all the detail on a reasonable sized sheet of paper. We wander about following the map and just when we are about to get lost there on the edge of the sidewalk is a map of the immediate area. As we have only wandered about for one day I cannot say if this standard throughout the city but it did help greatly on yesterday’s walk about.

Tokyo

When reserving a room in this hotel we thought we might jump with both feet into the Japanese experience. We book a Japanese style room. 6 tatami mats in size, plus a little extra for good measure. The futons are in a closet. Staying here is much like camping at home only you do not have blow up the mattress. Each night we move the ‘living area’ to the side of the room and lay out the bedding. Climb onto a rock hard futon and voila, sleep. Although we soft westerners had to get a second mattress just to soften the substrate.

Tokyo

The Japanese are a bit anal about the bathroom experience. Having a bath is quite ceremonial, we are looking forward to visiting a couple of onsens. What is an immediately evident is the difference in the make up of what a toilet consists of. How about heated seats. Maybe the living spaces are cold here but other than outhouses I haven’t found that to be a problem. Here there is a dial on the edge of the seat so you can set the temperature. Then there is the ‘rear wash’. A jet is strategically situated so when the water valve is turned on you can eliminate the use of toilet paper. Only thing is your butt is dripping and it makes for uncomfortable underwear. I’ll keep you updated on any other toilet innovations I run across.

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Tokyo First Impressions

Posted on October 8, 2019 by murray

Out the front door of the Edo Sakura Hotel, turn right and we are head towards Uneo Park and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. The small street our hotel is on is somewhat more intimate than the major traffic road one block west. We approach my first victim. Konichiwa I say, the fellow returns a pleasant smile and konichiwa. We then got our first lesson in Japanese. For a very long time I believed kon-e-che-wa was Japanese for hello. Seems it proper use is only in the afternoon. Oheyo, pronounced like the state Ohio with the accent on the last 0, is the greeting for the AM.

Tokyo

The gallery experience is very different here. The Japanese in general have a much greater interest in art than any culture we have passed through before. There is an exhibit of Impressionist art and on a Tuesday morning the masses are here. There are hundreds passing through the gallery. We have to find our way around at least 10 people as they take an elongated view of each painting. For me there were no jaw dropping pieces but there were several very famous paintings, the ones seen in art history books, and it is always an bonus to see the real thing. (Debbie on the other hand was enthralled with a Renoir, a couple of Cezanne and a Manet.)

Tokyo
Nezu jinja Temple

First day here and we need to get our bearings around Tokyo. We have a couple of maps and navigation is quite easy today but we still have to stand on this street corner or that and decide where we are and which way to go. Just about every time we paused someone has approached us and asked if we need help. Totally cool. It happens everywhere in the world, but not with the frequency that has been the case so far here. Although walking along the street is somewhat of an internal experience, no one give a nod or greets us with oheyo but when we looked perplexed we have no shortage of angels.

Tokyo
Ameyoko shopping area
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Last days in Singapore

Posted on October 6, 2019 by murray

Murray writes….Sooner or later it is bound to happen. I don’t know how many nights we have spent in hotels over the last 25 years but I would estimate it to be over 500 but less than 1000. A big gap but the exact number is not really that important. Last night, just short of midnight the fire alarm started blaring. It woke me up but being somewhat groggy I was not sure what was going on. The noise itself was unfamiliar and not the loud ringing bell old people might expect. Then, this being the 21st century, there was an announcement. Something like, ‘The fire alarm has been activated. Please stand by for further instructions’. As this blurb repeated over and over Debbie and I got dressed, as I think it would be inappropriate to descend the emergency stairs buck naked. Eventually it was determined it was a false alarm and we returned to bed. Emergency procedures are rarely practiced once you leave elementary school but it is good to know they are in place and reasonably easy to implement.

Inner courtyard of the Raffles Hotel, Singapore
Inner courtyard of the Raffles Hotel

Debbie writes…..Yesterday we toured the Raffles Hotel (uber expensive and slightly snooty) and the Fullerton Hotel (high end but not snooty). The reason why I say snooty vs non snooty is that the Raffles only lets guests into the main building. The riffraff, us, could walk the grounds but not the inner sanctum. Whereas the Fullerton allows us to wander through and the staff even acknowledges us with a “Good Morning”! The Raffles was built in the late 1800s and the Fullerton in the 1920s, so they are the grandfathers of the modern hotels in Singapore.

Interior of the Fullerton Hotel, Singapore
Interior of the Fullerton Hotel

Last evening we watched the light show at the Gardens by the Bay. If I were a kid, I would have been enraptured with it, but as an adult it was okay/good, but not stellar. The highlight was when the skies opened up and let loose and we were thankful we both had our umbrellas!

Gardens by the Bay, Singapore

Today we plan to walk a short portion of the Rail Trail, which is an old railway line turned into a walking path. We alight from the train, find the trail and are chagrined to learn that it is blocked off for construction. We walk along the road beside it, thinking the construction will end, but it doesn’t and we get a confirmation of its full closure from a local couple out walking. We decide to keep walking and end up on a, sometimes rugged, trail to the MacRitchie Reservoir. We figure we walked a total of about 12 km, and oh my aching feet! But it was worth it as we saw some wildlife…..monkeys and a flying lemur!

Singapore
Singapore

We noticed the other day that rush hour in the MRT tunnels flows similarly to the traffic on the roads. Everyone flows at about the same speed and everyone gets to where they are going in good time. If a speedy walker were to try to get through the people traffic, he/she would cause more disruption than just keeping the same speed. It is quite fascinating!

We must have needed a shot of North America yesterday. Don’t tell anyone but we ate a lunch of fish and chips at a riverside restaurant and then I had KFC for supper and Murray had a slice of pizza. Tonight we are back to Asian cuisine.

We make the jump to Tokyo tomorrow where we will meet our friends L&R and start a three week adventure in Japan. See you on the other side.

Singapore
Debbie on the trail.
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Singapore Muse

Posted on October 5, 2019 by murray

Consumerism runs rampant in SE Asia. In the west there is a certain factor that is on the down slide from wanting to own everything but the apex of that curve has not reached Asia yet. It is unlikely to do so soon. The corporations of the world realize that in order to sustain themselves they need constant turn over of goods and the huge population of Asia is a perfect target. If you want to find the crowds in any Asian city head to the main shopping areas. In Singapore it would be Orchard Road. The sidewalks are at least 10M wide and are quite crowded. We feel like we are the only people not carrying bags. Sales are good today.

Wherever in the world it is generally accepted one walks on the sidewalk as the traffic is on the road. If the cars drive on the left side of the road, on the sidewalk you walk on the left. Here the sidewalks do not necessarily follow that pattern. We try but no matter what side of the walk we are on we feel like we are swimming up stream. The one place where this pattern is strictly followed is when we move vertically, up and down stairs or on an escalator. On the escalator, the rule of stand on one side, here the left and walk on the other is followed. Again something we could adopt in NA a little more stringently.

Last night we thought we should indulge ourselves and stop for some ice cream. After a search we found a shoppe and were checking things out when we realized an ice cream cone was $10, that’s Singapore dollars but they are roughly equivalent to Canadian dollars. Must be a real treat to eat ice cream in Singapore. We did however satisfy our urge after stopping at a 7/11 and saw that Magnum bars were on sale for $2.90. We shared one!

The humidity here is killing us. The temp is a mere 31C. A perfectly acceptable and workable temperature but as we walk through the very dense air we sweat and the fatigue sets in. Debbie checks the weather when we return to the hotel room and it indicates ‘feels like’ 37 C, no wonder were are cooked.

Chili crab is signature dish of Singapore. We headed to Newton Hawker Centre to see what the fuss is about. It was OK but not something I would return for. At the suggestion of the hotel concierge we ordered it with mild chili paste. It comes on a large plate with a smashed crab covered in the sauce. Crab meat does not have a very strong taste and it is far over powered by the heat of the sauce. Both Debbie and I had our mouths on fire by the end of the meal and we were underwhelmed by this local delicacy. This one was better then the last though as last time I spilled chili crab sauce all over my pants and had to go buy new ones.

The Newton Centre is a slight more upscale hawker court but, although tourists have a greater presence, it is still overwhelmingly occupied by locals having dinner. We think that the majority of the meals here are not cooked in the home. The living area is small and the luxury of a kitchen and dining area would be a rarity. That is just a supposition.

In some cities the pedestrian puts their life in peril just crossing a street. Even if the light says “Walk” cars have the right of passage. In some cities like Edmonton, the pedestrian walks out on the road without so much as looking up from their cell phone and they truly expect to live. In Singapore the pedestrian/vehicle interface is one of respect from both sides. If it is more efficient for a pedestrian to pause and let a vehicle into a gap in traffic they do. If there seems to be no urgency for a car to move, the driver will pause and let the peds cross. It is easy even for a non local to get the hang of. It is sort of passive aggression.

At home the city in all its wisdom has adopted a system that encourages and trains pedestrians to cross on a wait light. The green walk man is extinguished and a count down with the flashing red wait hand commences, but pedestrians still cross during the countdown. Here the count is coordinated with the green flashing walk man and when the red hand shines the pedestrians stop. In my humble opinion this simple difference unconsciously trains the population to obey the law and the end result is smoother traffic flow on both the walking and vehicular side.

Tonight we are off to see a light show at the Gardens by the Bay. Saturday night out on the town, OH BOY don’t we lead an exciting life!

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Singapore Neighbourhoods

Posted on October 4, 2019 by murray

Today is the day we master bussery – the art of traveling by bus in a foreign city. One of the places we are going is not only off the map but as best we can make, not near an MRT station. Holland Village is our first stop. The reading said it is a place of smaller shops and eating establishments. First thing we notice is the higher frequency of expats. It is an upscale neighbourhood but the shops and restaurants are mostly closed. We arrive mid morning and the restaurants and bars will not be open until later in the day. The area is nice enough but I think the evening would be a better time to visit.

Holland Village, Singapore
Holland Village

Dempsey Hill is another old army barracks, this time converted into a boutique shopping area mixed with several eating establishment. Again it is upscale but it is far more interesting and unlike yesterdays visit there are a few more people wandering about.

Dempsey Hill, Singapore
Dempsey Hill

We wander about having fun talking to the folks in the shops and as we walk out the door of the exotic food market the skies open up and a torrential tropical downpour commences. We find a seat and watch as the roadway fills with water. The rain abates and we commence our journey.

Dempsey Hill, Singapore
The downpour at Dempsey Hill

The next shop we are again chatted up by the attendant and as we are about to leave his shop the rain starts anew. The fellow looks outside and he knows we only have one umbrella to share so he offers us a ring side seat to watch mother nature perform. He then disappears into the back and produces an umbrella that he hands to me and says ‘this should help, you do not have to return it’. I promise to pass it on to someone I meet in need. We leave, both under cover, and for the most part stay dry.

Orchard Road, Singapore
Window washing along Orchard Road

It is a well known fact, Singapore is clean to the point of being sterile. It is the city SE Asian travelers, from the western world, descend upon to regen when cultural burnout is an issue. I don’t really notice the lack of garbage on the street until I see a single solitary piece of paper blowing in the wind along the sidewalk. Really, it is the way the world should be and I think it is that way here because the rules are enforced. Spit your gum on the street and you can expect to pay a hefty fine if caught. Sure you can Jaywalk but don’t get caught or your wallet might be $500 lighter. There are always people that will not live in a civilized fashion and enforcing the laws that are in place seems to work. Maybe the western world should take note.

Orchard Road, Singapore
Upscale shopping along Orchard Road

Orchard Road it a mega shopping street in Singapore. For the record it is also a mega street, 4 lanes of traffic each way with a boulevard running down the middle. There is signage on all the sidewalks proclaiming the street is non-smoking. As I walk along a remote edge of the 10M wide sidewalk I notice a wide yellow line on the concrete and within the barriers of the yellow lined area stand an elbow to elbow crowd of smokers and one stainless steel ashtray/butt can. A penalty box for smoker. It is as though the smoking area puts the smokers on display similar to the petty criminals of old that were confined in the ‘stocks’.

Much less embarrassing but still adhered to are the yellow lined bicycle parking areas. There are not too many bikes here but when they are parked they have special areas and people use them. Like that would work back home?? It minimizes the mayham that can be caused by bikes left willy nilly and I think again if you do not park your bike there it may not be there when you return.

Mercure Singapore Bugis
Our home while in Singapore – the Mercure Singapore Bugis.

Tonight we will venture further for supper so we can try Chili Crab. It is a specialty here and the hotel concierge recommended a certain hawker to us. He also explained to us how to order it so it is the right degree of spicy for our western palate. So we are going to put our scuba diving morals aside and go eat crab.

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Singapore 2.0

Posted on October 3, 2019 by murray

Singapore’s MRT is going to save Debbie’s feet so we start the day with a bit of a circuitous walk to the subway station. I don’t understand why 98% of the cities we go to have a better way to run a subway system than Edmonton, but they do. My h0me town should have the very best LRT in the world as it is one of the newest and the designers should have learned from the ones that existed previously but as far as I can see nothings was learned. Our subway runs on the surface, eats up valuable land, and interrupts traffic at every opportunity. Singapore’s MRT is mostly underground. There is not one place where the flow of traffic is stopped to let a train trough. It gets us to where we want to go quickly and the real estate above is utilized for whatever use best suits the surrounding area.

Before we arrive at the station Debbie spots an Art Deco-ish building. It is a highrise picture right out of Ayn Rand’s book The Fountainhead. It is quite a monumental building and presuming it was built in the 1920’s it has been maintained perfectly. We detour a couple of blocks to tour the office building.

Parkview Square, Singapore
Parkview Square

We are both stunned by the detailing. Graphics and elements directly lifted from Frank Lloyd Wright, art deco details and patterns that should be in every architectural book ever printed, and sculpture and friezes that could have been designed by Howard Roark, Ayn Rand’s protagonist. I was baffled as to why I had not run across this building before. As I walked passed the front desk I ask the young lady, when the building was built and who was the architect. The first question was answered immediately, 2002. My face must have looked very puzzled. The second question was researched on Google and she told me it was an American fellow, James Adams. Although I think almost every detail was lifted from somewhere, there was one mountain of research compiled to pull off such a prefect replica of days gone by.

Parkview Square, Singapore
Main Floor Interior of Parkview Square

Our tram ride took us to Tiong Bahru. Singapore’s first public housing estate built in 1936. It was built in the fashionable, at the time, Art Deco style. It is the part of Chinatown that see very few tourists. We both like that era and completely enjoyed a walk up and down the streets.

Tiong Bahru Neighbourhood, Singapore
Tiong Bahru Neighbourhood

Most of the building are residential and we just skirted the perimeter of those but part of the estate was some strictly commercial building and some mixed use buildings with commercial on the ground floor and residential above. After 80 years the area has been maintained to a high standard and is still a lively and vibrant community.

Tiong Bahru Neighbourhood, Singapore
Tiong Bahru Neighbourhood

The next stop was a repeat of one we made two weeks ago when we passed through on our way to Indonesia. Hawker Chan has been made famous by the Michelin people by bestowing upon his hawker stall one star. It was the first stall in the world to garner a Michelin Star of any kind. Be warned, the line up can be an hour long but thankfully we wait around 1/2 that. We passed the opportunity but last time but Debbie felt we should go back and test his wares. I got to the front of the line, ordered the specialty of the house, Soya Sauce Chicken and Rice, paid and sat down to what we expected to be a first class meal. May be our expectations were too high but frankly it was not only not spectacular it was just better than edible. If that is the case of other Michelin Starred restaurants I am not interested in following the trail.

Hawker Chan’s Food Stall, Singapore
Hawker Chan’s Food Stall

The last venture of the day was to a former military barricks, the Gillman Barricks. It is an example of reuse that seems to work reasonably well but the use chosen has a limited public appeal so I don’t think it is a booming commercial success and I hope it can be sustained. When the armed forces no longer had any use for the space it went through a number of iterations before the government, in 2012, converted the area into a centre for the arts. It now houses several commercial art galleries, a few bars and restaurants and the NTU Centre for Contemporary Art. As with all art some of the things grabbed us and some did not appeal at all but for us it was worth the time.

The feet are tired now and with our MRT pass we choose to take the public transport most of the way home. See what tomorrow brings.

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Froggies 2, Lembeh

Posted on October 1, 2019 by murray

It seems this time of the year is a bit of a down time around Indonesia. As the last post indicated we are living and diving with groups far below resort capacity. Also noticeable is the amount of construction and renovation taking place around both of Froggies outlets. Froggies has been here for quite some years and although everything is not brand spanking new it has been maintained very well. Any place right on the ocean deteriorates very quickly and often we stay in newer places where things just don’t work any more. Here everything works. It would appear things are in a constant state of upgrade and improvement. A testament to the owner’s resolve to have a great dive resort for the customers. I would have to do little research for a place to stay in Bunaken and Lembeh, if I were to return. Froggies would be my starting point.

Frogfish, Lembeh, Indonesia
Frogfish

Our room, cabin, villa, bondok in Lembeh is right on the water. Literally. When the tide comes in we can look through the boards on the deck and there is no more dry land. One cool thing about this is the sound of the lapping water that lulls us to sleep each night. That is after we discovered we did not want the AC while we slept (The AC is noisy and you cannot hear the water). The boats motor in and out at a much less frequent rate then the cars on any street. So we sleep very well.

Lembeh, Indonesia

The people we have met on this trip have been absolutely charming. Mostly Europeans from Switzerland, Germany, Great Britain, France, a young South Korean, one American, and one fellow from Shanghai. We had great conversions in the boat and around the eating table. As things go I will most likely email a few of them next time we are diving and see if we can match schedules and meet up again.

The Indonesian people are absolutely fantastic. Extremely polite. Wonderfully caring and attentive. They jump to help when asked. They are quiet, no loud screaming matches, they keep their voice down when on the ubiquitous cell phone, when they use the car horn it is a short beep rather than a drawn out blare and when they address us it is so quiet we usually have to ask pardon. I have said this before that a the place is its people and Indonesia rates as a great place.

Lembeh, Indonesia

Indonesia is up. Every where we go it is up. Debbie mentioned we had 70 some steps to bed in Bunaken. Here we live on the water but we rise up 56 stairs to the restaurant every meal. For breakfast it wakes you up, after diving it is hard work for lunch, it is OK for dinner by that time we have rested and the climb is not bad. When we did the land excursions off the live a board it was mostly rock climbing. Steep, scary, and using hands and feet to both ascend and descend. I think these steep slopes are the result of the islands being formed by volcanoes.

This morning we awoke to a several beached jelly fish. They don’t last long out of the water. When we come down from breakfast one of the grounds keepers is digging mass graves in the sand and filling it with jelly fish carcasses. There are still a lot of free swimming jellies, the non-stinging variety, but it is still sad but there is not much else you can do with them.

Tomorrow we board a plane to Singapore and leave diving behind. We’ve had a great time and are already looking into returning to dive different areas. More creatures await!

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Unusual Critters

Posted on September 28, 2019 by debbie

The other day, I mentioned in the post that I hoped to see unusual critters when we dive in Lembeh. Right now I am stunned by how many weird, creepy, surprising and unknown creatures we saw on our first two dives. I take so many pictures that the battery in my camera runs out. Guess tomorrow I take both batteries and change them between dives.

We know that we might see a Hairy Frogfish, and we saw two! They mostly walk as they are very awkward swimmers. Their little feet/fins plod along the bottom oh so slowly.

Hairy Frogfish at Lembeh
Hairy Frogfish

Murray and I love watching mantis shrimp and take many photos of their colourful sectioned backs. Today one is peeking out of its hole in the sand and I grab a shot of its underside. It looks like an alien!

Mantis Shrimp
Mantis Shrimp

There are jelly fish here. There are many different shapes and sizes and kinds. We spot this rather large and intimidating one as we ascend to the surface on our first dive. Luckily, none of the jellyfish we encounter are poisonous, but I still did not get too close.

Jellyfish

And finally, a pretty fish! It is a Bangai Cardinalfish. After looking at so many greenish earth tone weird creatures it is a pleasure to spot this colourful fish.

Bangai Cardinalfish
Bangai Cardinalfish

I wonder what we will discover tomorrow?

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Alone Again

Posted on September 27, 2019 by murray

Today is transfer day. We are leaving Froggies at Bunaken and moving to Froggies on the island of Lembeh.

Exclusivity is becoming one of our trade marks. We arrive on the Coralia live a board which has room for 16 guests and we are two of 6. At Bunaken we sit down to lunch and there are 8 of a possible 22 guests. (over the 4 days there the number did climb to a somewhat crowded 14). Today we move make landfall and sit down to lunch with the one other guest. He is not diving today because he is leaving tomorrow and so Debbie and I will have the resort to ourselves. Private dive guide, private boat driver and assistant, private chef, waiter, bus person the entire place to ourselves. Weird is all I can say.

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