Backcountry Skiing at Sol Mountain, BC – Day 2

It’s the day we head out on a long trip. The tour starts with skiing, no uphill trek. The turns are on wind sifted snow and not the sun soaked stuff that was on the same slope yesterday. The run is great, 40 or 50 turns on a slope that is ideal for the amount of snow. We all look like heroes. Debbie descends like she has been in the backcountry for years. There are 6 sets of beautiful round turns.

The start is good. We hit the drainage and skin up. The terrain around the uptrack is gentle and it looks like we can make it down without incident. The track is set by a guest that spends a lot of time at Sol, gentle and easy to follow.

Sol MountainThe scenery is amazing. It is totally different than when we hike in the summer. The snow is deep and smooth, it quiets all the visual noise of the undergrowth experienced when while walking the trails 6 months opposite.

It is a long walk, Debbie is exhausted by the time we reach the top. Food is at the top of the list. It is windy, we find a cluster of trees (crumholtz) to hide behind, dig in and start on lunch. Fuel is a good thing and we regen.

On the way up I had eyed a slope that we are going to ski down. We had committed to hiking up a certain distance so we make it to the top of the drainage I spotted. It is ideal, north facing and the perfect pitch.  B, Debbie and I all have fresh tracks. It is a good test for a backcountry beginner, the tracks left by Debbie are even and round. It is also good for those of us who have been here before. The snow smooth and even, the skiing outstanding.

Sol Mountain

Debbie and B

After the long walk up, Debbie doesn’t have enough to hike up again, so we start our long ski down to the drainage. It is rough going, technical for a beginner and exhaustion is setting into our beginner skier. We reach the bottom, skin up and head up the same slope we had skied down hours earlier. After we hike up through the cut block (forested section) Debbie rests in the trees while I take a couple of runs down the cut block.

Sol Mountain

Murray hiking up after one of his runs

Last zig zag hike up through the trees and we are back at the lodge. We have been out for 6 hours and our legs are talking to us. We stow our gear, shower quickly and plunk ourselves down on the sofa with 2 Cokes. A good day.

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Backcountry Skiing at Sol Mountain, BC

We hear the thup thup thup before we see the small red helicopter. It circles the clearing near Sugar Lake outside Cherryville, BC and then drops down to the grass.

IMG_9642 (640x387)After a short time, I find myself sitting in the front seat next to the pilot. We lift up and cruise over the tree tops. We fly by the lake and the surface is a frozen glacial blue.  As we fly north and east and up in elevation, the trees are dusted with snow and then covered in snow. The Monashees are still snow covered and we are heading into winter again.

IMG_9651 (640x427)Only a 10 minute flight brings us to Sol Mountain Lodge. The lodge is run by Aaron and Sabine and is a 10 bedroom lodge with indoor running water (bathrooms and showers!), an outdoor sauna, a large communal kitchen, dining room and living room. It has a cozy and homey feel right away.

We haul our gear inside, unpack the food, organize our room, eat lunch and head out into the wild. Here I go! (I’m nervous, but I know once I get moving I will be okay.)

Murray, B and I skin up and walk over to an area of gentle terrain. The snow is like smooth icing covering the hills and dusting the trees. Lovely, peaceful, quiet, snowflakes slowly drifting down from the clouds.

IMG_9666 (640x427)I make my first turns in the boot top powder. Exhilarating.

IMG_9670 (640x420)The afternoon goes by as we walk up, ski down, walk up, ski down, walk further up, ski down all the way to the lodge.

My legs and feet are humming. I have some sore spots on my feet from my borrowed boots. It has been a GREAT first day of backcountry skiing. I will see what tomorrow brings.

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Backcountry Skiing Packing List

Now that I have added backcountry skiing to my repertoire of sports and reasons to travel, I need a packing list. Murray has one but it is hand written. Time for the official Backcountry Skiing – Day Trips Packing List. The list is found under the “Packing Lists” tab on the main menu bar.

This list is for day trips only, with a view that emergency gear is carried in case we are caught out overnight. Thus the bivy sack, candles, flashlight, matches and silver blanket.

Murray is stronger and his pack is larger than mine so when we go together I will not take some of the items (wire, bivy sack, scraper etc) on the list. I still think I need enough to survive on my own in an emergency.

My first trip into the backcountry will be up at Sol Mountain Lodge, near Vernon, BC. We will be there for 3 full days of skiing. I will let you know how it goes and any changes to the packing list.

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Kicking Horse Ski Resort

10 am Sunday. We load up the Rav4 to drive from Edmonton to Golden, BC to ski at Kicking Horse Ski Resort planning to arrive in the Lake Louise area about mid-afternoon, hopefully after the forecasted heavy snow fall has ceased and the road crews have graded the highway. We hit it almost perfectly. The highway is clear of the massive amounts of snow and the pavement is wet, not icy.

We arrive west of Golden, at the Il Nido Country Inn, at about 7 pm after stopping in Golden for supper at the Ledgendz Diner. Mid 1950’s décor with bright red upholstery, black and white checkered floor, booths, tables and a counter. Murray manages to consume a monte cristo sandwich, a bowl of mushroom soup and a chocolate milkshake, the size of which I have not seen in awhile.  I enjoy a “Just a Burger” hamburger and fries. YUM!

The Il Nido is tucked away above the main highway out of Golden. It is a large log cabin building with 2 small kitchenette suites and 2 bedrooms in the main area of the building. We are in the Eagle Suite and it is cozy and warm. The view from the window where I sit is generally north and the mountains are covered in a dusting of snow from the last few days.

Kelly, the huge teenage Chesapeake Bay Retriever, came to greet us as we arrived and is as big as me, so naturally he made me just a little bit nervous. Hate to end up on the wet snowy ground being licked silly by a big brown goofball.

Vie from the Golden Eagle Express Gondola

View from the Golden Eagle Express Gondola

10 am Monday. We are standing atop the mountain at Eagle’s Eye at Kicking Horse Ski Resort. It has snowed 22 cm in the last 12 hours. My first try at powder. We start our ski down on a groomed run and then Murray takes us to a run with deep powder. He says “Just ski like you normally do. You’ll do fine.”

Two turns, I am sitting back, PHOOMP! Down I go. Swim in the snow, get up. Three turns, weight is all wrong, AHHH!, PHOOMP! Down I go. This time my skis are uphill from my body. Swim in the snow, get up. Five turns, SHIT! PHOOMP! Down I go. Four turns. PHOOMP! Down I go.…..This is going well.

We manage to get me all the way down the hill to the base of the gondola. I am sweating profusely (not good) and extremely tired (also not good) after just one run. We agree I need a rest, so Murray rides the gondola by himself for a solo run and I sit in the sun at a picnic table.

When he returns we ride the Catamount Chair and ski green runs down to the base. MUCH BETTER! The snow isn’t as deep and I can maneuver through it. No wipeouts.

Kicking Horse Ski Resort

View down the valley

The views from the gondola and ski hill are of the valley that stretches east and west. It is a bowl shaped valley created by a receding glacier. The clouds are hanging about mid mountain this morning and it was cool to ride the gondola through the clouds and out the top.

Lunch is a welcome break and we then we ride up the gondola to Eagle Nest again. WOW, this time, skiing through pretty much the same terrain I do not wipe out once. WHO HOO! Progress!! By the bottom, my knee is talking to me so I sit at the picnic table again while Mur has another run by himself. I watch other skiers ski down the last pitch and some are good and some are not. I wonder how I actually look compared to others.  Murray skies down and I marvel at how smooth he looks. (I do have to keep telling myself that he has skied for 45 years and I have skied for what? 4.5 months!)

Kicking Horse Ski Resort

Waiting for Murray at the bottom of the hill

We toddle off to the vehicle and our ski day is done. PHEW!

Supper at Whitetooth Bistro. Dark red walls, black tables and chairs. Local artist’s photography and paintings adorn the walls. Murray samples the gnocchi with creamy pesto and red peppers. I try the miso salmon with rice and broccolini. Both are flavorful.  Total bill about $50. Would recommend it.

10 am Tuesday. We are riding up the Catamount Chair to ski green runs. Groomed runs are the plan for today so I can work on technique, plus overnight the nice powder will have set up to form icy ridges and a bumpy ride. Murray has his telemark skis for today.

I have a good day skiing, lots of green runs and a handful of blue runs from one trip to the mountain top. We discover that Kicking Horse is well suited for real beginner and advanced skiers, but it does lack terrain for a real intermediate skier. Many of the intermediate (blue) runs are leaning towards advanced more than intermediate.

We eat lunch both days at the lodge at the bottom of the hill. A slice of pizza, burger (no bun), fries and 2 drinks cost about $25. The other choice for food is the Eagle Eye Restaurant at the top of the mountain but a quick check shows that lunch for 2 would be about $50. Too pricey for us for lunch.

A good two days skiing at Kicking Horse. Powder. Groomed runs.  Too many wipeouts. Sunny skies. Warm temperatures. Lots of turns.

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San Salvador, Bahamas

When we got home from Myanmar, I was tired. Part of the tiredness was from not scheduling down time during our 4 week adventure. Part of the tiredness was from, in my opinion, traveling consistently every fall for 4 or 5 years.

If I look backwards, our trips have been to Myanmar/Maldives, Tanzania/Botswana, Bhutan/India, China/Tibet and Greece. These are not small trips. In between these trips we have been traveling in the spring on scuba diving trips – Cozumel, Utlia, Bonaire.

That’s a great deal of traveling, and plenty of travel planning. We plan all our own flights, tours when needed, hotels and diving and the planning takes months for a long and far away journey. I’m tired and need a break.

We have decided that we are not going on a “big” trip this fall. Instead, we are going to do two scuba diving trips. One in April, to Virgin Gorda with our New York friends and one in July with our Edmonton friends.

We have settled on San Salvador, Bahamas for the July trip as Murray has wanted to go there ever since it was recommended to him as a great place to dive. The travel planning is done except for a hotel in Nassau for two quick overnight stays enroute. The planning for San Salvador is easy as there are actually only 2 or 3 places to stay on the island. We are staying at the Riding Rock Inn. Flights are booked without hassle (so far) and we’re ready to go under the sea!

The planning for these two trips has been relatively painless and it feels marvelous to not have to work for months sorting through information. The break in the fall will be good for us and, no doubt, we will continue our long distance exploration of the globe in 2015.

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Off to the Mountains!

Two days of skiing in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. For me, day one is cross country skiing at the Canmore Nordic Centre and day two is alpine skiing at Sunshine – a chance to test my skiing ability on some more serious terrain. GULP!

Day One

This morning Murray heads out early to meet up with his backcountry buds to venture into the wild. R&D and I decide to cross country ski at the Canmore Nordic Centre.

D takes us up above Banff Trail onto the Olympic Loop. We start out climbing and climbing……and climbing…..and climbing some more. We ski up Beckie’s Hill, named for Beckie Scott after she won a gold medal in the 2005 world cup. We finally stop climbing and are able to take a breather when the tracks level out. We connect to Meadowview and after a couple of speedy hills we take a break above the “meadow” (or mine scar) to admire the crystal blue skies and massive mountains.

Canmore Nordic Centre View

Our view above the meadow

It is a perfect day to be outside enjoying winter.

Canmore Nordic CentreWe descend on the far side of the meadow. R heads down to the Banff Trail for the trip back to the lodge. D and I continue on Meadowview to the end of the trail where it connects to Bow and Banff Trails. It is a great ski, mostly down.

We take a short rest before skiing Banff Trail back to the lodge. I realize very quickly that it is an uphill slog back towards the meadow. I set my pace and once past the meadow the down hill starts that takes me almost to the lodge. D and I check our skis at the end and realize that our kick wax has been totally worn off. A great ski on a beautiful winter day!

Canmore Nordic Centre

Coming in after my ski

Day Two

9:30 finds Murray and me standing at the top of the Wawa Quad Chair at Sunshine Village. This is it! My first day of skiing in the mountains. Here we go!

We ski Meadow Park (a green run) a couple of times and then Tincan Alley (a blue run) a couple of times. I have to work hard on the intermediate runs and think about what I am doing.

After a quick break we ride up the Mount Standish Express and ski a blue run on that side of the mountain. Murray sees a run to do and we do that one too. It is narrow and has a steep drop-off on one side. I am learning about side sloped hills and how to ski them. Loooong turn short turn loooong turn short turn. Later I learn it is actually a black diamond run.

View from Angel Chair

View from the top of Angel Chair

On the more shallow sections of the runs, I practice my technique and tying all the pieces together. Murray says it is looking really good. I find when we are on the steep pitches, I don’t pole as I am concentrating on just getting down.

View from Angel ChairMurray wants to take me down a run called South Divide which starts at the very top of the mountain. The view is breathtaking up here. As we ski down, my body is telling me it is fatigued. My technique is falling apart, I start turning my body instead of just my legs, but I ski it and I’m proud.

skiingBy the time we get back to the lodge area, we both decide to call it a day. We ski Banff Avenue, the ski out all the way down to the parking lot. My only spill for the day and it is on the ski out! My body is not listening to my brain anymore and one leg decides to do something on it’s own and WHAM! on the ground!

As we drive home my body is thrumming in tiredness and I am pleased with my two days of skiing in the mountains.

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Learning to Alpine Ski

Murray is a self-confessed ski bum. Has skied since he was a teen, taught skiing for a number of years at Whistler, worked in Edmonton’s ski industry for 20 some years. I, on the other hand, do not ski. Until this year!

I got tired of being a backcountry widow and have decided that I want to go with Mur into the wild. One problem, I have to learn how to ski. Then I have to been brave enough to go out into the backcountry. Wait a minute, didn’t the trek on the West Coast Trail abolish all fear of the unknown?

I have been going to Snow Valley every week to ski with Murray, who is teaching me the fine art of pointing my hips down the hill while turning my legs and feet across the hill. Oh, and also keeping my shoulders also pointed down the hill! And “tipping” my knees into the hill to carve the ski into the hill. So many things to think about. Tough to learn a new sport in my mid fifties.

We ski today and Murray says I am doing pretty good. I think I can tell when my knees are pointing in the right direction as the skis grabs more. It feels good to be making progress. Today we skied down the steepest hill at Snow Valley and it wasn’t so bad. I kept it under control and didn’t allow my form to fall apart too much. Next week, we will introduce poling.

We have been talking about going to the mountains to resort ski so the runs are a tad bit longer. This is the next step and it will help improve my skiing as what I need now is mileage. We just have to pick a week and head out for a few days. Hopefully when it is warmer, not a balmy -25 C. Murray even said today that once I get the poles going, we could go into the backcountry! What??

Yesterday, I purchased a cool helmet and goggles from Sundance Ski Shop. J helped me and is super knowledgeable about the gear. After trying on a host of them, I got a Smith Sequel Matte Black helmet.

Smith Sequel Helmet

Smith Sequel Helmet

It took abit of trying to find goggles that fit my tiny face, but J persisted and we found a pair. I didn’t want dark lens because I like it bright. Luckily I discovered this riding on cloudy days – I wear sunglasses with an orangey lens rather than a dark lens. I also wanted to be able to wear the goggles with or without my glasses, so that eliminated quite a few. Pretty cool looking!

Scott Storm OTG Goggle

Scott Storm OTG Goggle

Last year I had rented skis, boots and poles a few times from Sundance, so this year before I started to ski in earnest, I purchased my own gear. Alex, one of the owners of the shop, fit me with boots and was patient, all knowing and amazing. I put my faith in her and they fit perfectly! Then it was easy to pick out skis and poles. Here is what I got…..

Dynastar Neva 74 Skis

Dynastar Neva 74 Skis

Nordica Transfire R3 Boots

Nordica Transfire R3 Boots

Dynastar Kerma Reveal Poles

Dynastar Kerma Reveal Poles

So I am outfitted with brand new gear, but I am wearing a hand me down jacket from Snow Valley and an old pair of ski pants from Alex’s personal stock. Next year I will spend the big bucks and buy a nice jacket and pants.

I am on my way to learning and participating in a new sport. And I have all the gear! Alpine skiing is now something that I do! Watch out!

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Virgin Gorda update

I think we are set. Way too far in advance but as I mentioned we are traveling at Easter and also the time of many an American school spring break. We must be cognizant of the timing and therefore have booked absolutely everything. We previously mentioned we should get away from this habit and try to do things in a more organic manner but it has not worked out that way.

Now we sit and wait. Last night we reviewed our bookings, making sure all of our flights jibed with each other and our hotel reservations. After missing the flight in Bangkok we decided it was our lack of checking that was the cause of our mishap and we had to review our plans more. On this trip we have a flight that leaves near midnight again and we don’t want to be sleeping restlessly while the plane is taking off from the airport.

There are minor decisions to make like what specific sites we are to dive. BVI contacted us with a couple of proposals outlining the possibilities and costs to charter a boat as a group and visit some of the more far fetched dive sites. This may be our one and only trip to this island so I think it would make good sense to see what is a bit farther afield.

I will keep the blog updated but frankly I do not see anything of relevance coming up in the near future. It is time to shift our focus to a new trip we expect to take around the first of July with our scuba diving school teacher and other friends.

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Mistaya Backcountry Lodge

Mistaya Lodge SkiingMonday. It is -34 and here we sit. I have skied when it was this cold and it is not fun and I am old enough now to realize that no matter how much I try it will be nothing but labour to go out today. The sun has just crested the mountains and we are all standing at the thermometer watching the numbers shoot up. HA.

Mistaya Lodge SkiingYesterday, T and I had the company of the resident guide, D. He drags our butts up and down some really good terrain. This is T’s first day skiing this year and he is working on getting back his confidence but he skis well and we have a great day. It has not snowed in quite a few days and the snow is challenging in places, other spots it is great. We walk and ski for 4.5 hours with only a 15 minute break. D doesn’t seem bothered by the distance but T and I are knackered.

Sunday is a poor day from a skiing aspect. We arrive, have lunch and head out trying to find West Bowl. We never do find the run and only get a few turns on the way back to the lodge.

At noon we poke our noses outside the door and start our walk up. We aren’t going far; we want to be close in case the cold is not conducive to outdoor recreation. As we ascend, the temperature moderates and by the time we reach the highest point of our trip it is warm enough for me to take my hand out of my glove to adjust the camera. The snow is iffy, sun affected and wind blown. Somehow I manage to read the snow correctly and have quite a good run.

Mistaya Lodge SkiingThursday brought a good surprise. I am off in the afternoon with B. He just wants to go to the top of the next ridge and see what there is to see. I am not much into the touring for touring’s sake but I am going along anyway. B needs a partner and I need a place to go. We are heading for an existing uptrack but miss it and set our own track to the top. On the way up the snow looks and feels skiable. At the top of the knoll we get a different view from yesterday but to go beyond would not be good use of time as the ridge we can get to is the same as the one we viewed previously. We turn our skis down, the run is steep, and the snow is great. Didn’t think I would ski at all and have one of the best runs I have had all week.

Mistaya Lodge SkiingFriday we awake to a balmy -25C. Starting the day 7C degrees warmer should make for a longer day. Strange that as we get more tired we get the opportunity to ski ALL day long. Short trip and back to the lodge for lunch. The usual procedure is to go out for the entire day and eat lunch in a nice sunny spot, it is not possible to go far when you return to home base at noon. The trip is to Wishbone Moraine not a long run but again the snow is good and the trip is well worth it. It’s steep, not scary but steep enough to notice.  The afternoon is a tour to the top of Mista Vista. It is a really nice view from there and the highest point we have gone; with the split trip days we cannot travel big distances.

Mistaya Lodge SkiingIt is amazing how consistently cold the weather has been all week long. It has been -30 at 6am every day. Today we hope it will warm quickly and significantly. Even though I expect the weather to be warmer I think it will still be a split trip day.  This morning I team up with D again and we go to the Wishbone Moraine and up to a place he does not frequent except when the avalanche danger is extremely low, the Cobra. It is quite steep and the wind has deposited a lot of snow in the area so although the snow is not deep it is also not wind affected and is very skiable. The last run is to the area I went to at the start of the week . The two Aussies, P & H, and H and I go north and head for a run I have eyed since we walked by it. The snow is good and the turns are not too tricky and well within the ability of the group. We all make it down, I enjoy it and I think the others do too. 

Mistaya Lodge Skiing

The group is amazingly compatible. We all knew 3 or 4 of the others but only a couple of the folks knew everybody before we arrived.  People from literally around the world, Australia and Aus/England, Victoria, Phuket, Banff, Calgary and Edmonton.  All skiers of varying ability but all interested in the experience a backcountry cabin can provide.

Mistaya Lodge is first class, the operation is first class, the owners and staff are fantastic. D, the live in guide and owner is a perfect host. The terrain is challenging but perfectly skiable, the views are other worldly. We didn’t have any new snow while we were here but with a foot or two it can only be better than I have experienced.  Come here any time and you will enjoy the time spent.

Mistaya Lodge Skiing

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A Stop in Miami, Florida

When looking at our long haul flights from Edmonton we have a choice of either flying through Miami or Fort Lauderdale. Knowing we might spend a few days in the city, I do some preliminary research and decide Miami is the better option. Why? Art Deco!

In the 1930s and ’40s the second wave of Art Deco hit Miami and thrived. The first wave was in Paris in the 1920s and then spread throughout the world. New York’s Empire State Building and Chrysler Building are perfect examples of Art Deco. Miami Beach’s streets are lined with Art Deco buildings that are now hotels, restaurants and boutiques.

We chose The Colony Hotel as our home while in Miami.

I find an Art Deco Walking Tour from National Geographic featuring a number of the historic buildings along Ocean Drive. The Miami website also has info.

I also stumble across a number of cultural venues that I keep tabs on for concerts and exhibits happening while we are in Miami. The New World Symphony lists concerts on the Saturday and Sunday nights that we are there. I check in on The Fillmore for their concerts – so far nothing. We will take a day to go into Miami downtown but I haven’t yet researched that yet.

I am quite excited to wander the avenues with my camera capturing the colors and the curves of the Art Deco movement in Miami and taking in some culture too!

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