The Experiment of Diving

No matter how long someone has been scuba diving for, day one of a dive trip is always an experiment. Haven’t gone diving for months, wetsuit is super dried out, wetsuit is new, gear is supposed to work as it should.

We stride into the water at the back of the dive boat. Try to go down, and I do not go down. Murray doesn’t go down. We try everything we know and end up getting more and more weight from our dive master, S.

My mask keeps fogging up. I have to rinse it every few minutes.

Three quarters of the way through the dive, Murray cannot stay down. WHAT!!?! He ends up surfacing, san safety stop, near the boat and I stay with the group.

Four-eye Butterflyfish

Four-eye Butterflyfish

Once up on the boat, we discuss what has happened and why. First obvious point – we didn’t soak our wetsuits when we got to Virgin Gorda. Every drop of possible moisture is sucked out in our dry climate and it takes some time underwater to saturate fully.

Second point – I underestimated the buoyancy of a brand new wetsuit. I am still surprised at the extra weight I had to dive with.

Third point – During our second dive Murray realized that his BCD is self-inflating. The valve may be stuck and is allowing air to continuously flow into the BCD. If we cannot fix the valve, Murray just has to disconnect the hose from the inflator hose and no more air will leak into the BCD. (This is a new BCD and has been used on 1 dive trip only.)

Flamingo Tongue

Flamingo Tongue

While experimenting with equipment, we saw a sting ray, a spotted eagle ray, coral banded shrimp, sea pearl alga, a golden tail moray eel and our usual fish friends – spotted drum fish, barracuda, porcupinefish, trumpetfish.

Hopefully tomorrow the experiment will go smoothly.

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Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

My legs are failing, my lungs ready to explode, my side is ripping apart. I am running like an impala being hunted by a cheetah down a moving sidewalk in Miami’s International Airport. My heavy pack is bouncing around on my back and my rollie suitcase is faithfully staying upright and keeping up. I am yelling “EXCUSE ME – COMING BY ON YOUR LEFT” as I catch up and pass other slower moving travelers.

A snow storm in Toronto, late departure and de-icing has caused us to be over 2 hours late arriving in Miami. By the time our Toronto flight’s doors are opening, our San Juan flight is boarding. We have to traverse almost the entire airport going from Concourse J to D. If we run at hurricane speed we may make our connection.

After that extreme exertion, we find the doors at the gate closed. We are not the only people left standing on the wrong side of leaving. As sweat continues to drip down our faces and backs, we scurry over to the American Airlines desk to see if there is another flight today.

The fellow at the desk is extremely pleasant and puts us on standby for the 5:45 flight. Standby with a priority rating no less. He also covers off the possibility we do not get on that flight by booking us on the 8:30 flight. It sounds like we will make San Juan tonight as planned. We feel like we have won the lottery when our names are called to board the flight.

Jump ahead….here I sit in our spacious abode in the Gordian Terrace on Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. AAAHHHH!

The island is extreme in hills, friendly in people, gorgeous in scenery and crystalline in water. We have arrived in Virgin Gorda!

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Backcountry Packing List Review

When I packed my pack for our backcountry day trips, I threw into the bottom of the pack the items that I thought I would not use – toilet paper, first aid kit, warm shirts, extra socks and Gortex jacket. Shovel and probe were pushed down the inside of the pack. My down jacket went in next followed on top by my extra mitts, extra toque, goggles, lunch and water bottle. Into the top zippered pocket went hand/toe warmers, silver blanket, flashlight, compass, granola bars. My pack didn’t weigh too much and I didn’t feel overburdened.

Sol Mountain

Debbie geared up

It was warm in the Monashees, hovering around 2C everyday. I started off with 2 technical shirts and a light jacket and often shed one shirt on the hike up. I had on my regular ski pants, which were much too warm, and a pair of lighter long johns. I wore my lightweight cross country ski gloves and had some heavy ski mitts attached to the outside of my pack to put on for the ski down. I wore a small light toque and sunglasses.

Overall I think the packing list is quite exact for day tripping. If you give backcountry skiing a try, give our packing list a try too!

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Backcountry Skiing at Sol Mountain, BC – Last Day

Years ago when Murray started backcountry skiing I remember saying that I would never go into the wilds in the winter. Too dangerous. Too scary.

On Sunday, as I was sitting in the trees all by myself waiting for Murray to take his couple of runs down the cut block below the lodge, I realized I was sitting in the wilderness, in the winter and I was not scared. It was peaceful, beautiful, comfortable.

How things change.

Today is Tuesday and the snow quality has changed for the worse. It is too warm, rain was even falling earlier today.

We decide to walk to South Cariboo Pass. Not a lot of elevation change and it should be relatively safe. B, Murray and I start out along the same track we went on our first day. The snow is wet – pig snot, as they say – and Murray is hoping the sun will come out and soften up the top couple of inches and be skiable.

As we trek further from the lodge towards the pass, we keep an eye on what is above us looking for cornices that might let loose, or possible terrain that might slide. We walk across these slopes 50 feet apart. Murray tells me if some snow lets loose in my path, to turn downhill and go straight down and don’t stop. He also tells me if it is in his path to not take my eyes off him.

Okay, NOW it is scary. Murray and B keep discussing the conditions and the plan and I do feel confident in what they decide.

Sol MountainJ, A, N and K catch up to us and we collectively decide to stop for lunch at a grouping of trees that are in good condition, telling us that they have not been hit by an avalanche in a long long time.

Sol Mountain

View from our lunch stop

The view is stunning. The top edge of the mountain range opposite us creates a stark line across the sky. This is why we are up here. The scenery, the camaraderie.

Four of us decide to turn back and three decide to carry on to the pass. The snow is wet and slow but it is faster to ski than to walk skinned up, so we stow our skins and K and A set a perfect gentle slope for B and me on the way down. We get to the last couple of big rollers that lead to the lodge and K and A point their skis straight down and go swooshing down. B takes me down in a large zig zag pattern.  I am so lucky to have B with me, he knows what a beginner can (and wants) to do.

Murray, J and N turn around before the pass as the conditions get worse. They reach the lodge just after we do.

We create snow chairs outside, sit for Cokes and beers enjoying our last day and the view up at Sol Mountain. The experienced skiers in our group have had an excellent trip and are sure they will return here. The terrain is varied and there are so many choices in direction to go.

The beginner skier (me) enjoyed most of the skiing, but the trekking was hard work. K explains to me that it took awhile for him to like the trekking part so I should keep doing it because I will get better and therefore will enjoy it more.  I would return, scary and not so scary parts included, to ski the terrain we went across today. It’s been a long time coming but, I’m in for next year at Sol Mountain.

The Sundance Ski Shop Crew

The Sundance Ski Shop Crew

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Backcountry Skiing at Sol Mountain, BC – Day 2

It’s the day we head out on a long trip. The tour starts with skiing, no uphill trek. The turns are on wind sifted snow and not the sun soaked stuff that was on the same slope yesterday. The run is great, 40 or 50 turns on a slope that is ideal for the amount of snow. We all look like heroes. Debbie descends like she has been in the backcountry for years. There are 6 sets of beautiful round turns.

The start is good. We hit the drainage and skin up. The terrain around the uptrack is gentle and it looks like we can make it down without incident. The track is set by a guest that spends a lot of time at Sol, gentle and easy to follow.

Sol MountainThe scenery is amazing. It is totally different than when we hike in the summer. The snow is deep and smooth, it quiets all the visual noise of the undergrowth experienced when while walking the trails 6 months opposite.

It is a long walk, Debbie is exhausted by the time we reach the top. Food is at the top of the list. It is windy, we find a cluster of trees (crumholtz) to hide behind, dig in and start on lunch. Fuel is a good thing and we regen.

On the way up I had eyed a slope that we are going to ski down. We had committed to hiking up a certain distance so we make it to the top of the drainage I spotted. It is ideal, north facing and the perfect pitch.  B, Debbie and I all have fresh tracks. It is a good test for a backcountry beginner, the tracks left by Debbie are even and round. It is also good for those of us who have been here before. The snow smooth and even, the skiing outstanding.

Sol Mountain

Debbie and B

After the long walk up, Debbie doesn’t have enough to hike up again, so we start our long ski down to the drainage. It is rough going, technical for a beginner and exhaustion is setting into our beginner skier. We reach the bottom, skin up and head up the same slope we had skied down hours earlier. After we hike up through the cut block (forested section) Debbie rests in the trees while I take a couple of runs down the cut block.

Sol Mountain

Murray hiking up after one of his runs

Last zig zag hike up through the trees and we are back at the lodge. We have been out for 6 hours and our legs are talking to us. We stow our gear, shower quickly and plunk ourselves down on the sofa with 2 Cokes. A good day.

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Backcountry Skiing at Sol Mountain, BC

We hear the thup thup thup before we see the small red helicopter. It circles the clearing near Sugar Lake outside Cherryville, BC and then drops down to the grass.

IMG_9642 (640x387)After a short time, I find myself sitting in the front seat next to the pilot. We lift up and cruise over the tree tops. We fly by the lake and the surface is a frozen glacial blue.  As we fly north and east and up in elevation, the trees are dusted with snow and then covered in snow. The Monashees are still snow covered and we are heading into winter again.

IMG_9651 (640x427)Only a 10 minute flight brings us to Sol Mountain Lodge. The lodge is run by Aaron and Sabine and is a 10 bedroom lodge with indoor running water (bathrooms and showers!), an outdoor sauna, a large communal kitchen, dining room and living room. It has a cozy and homey feel right away.

We haul our gear inside, unpack the food, organize our room, eat lunch and head out into the wild. Here I go! (I’m nervous, but I know once I get moving I will be okay.)

Murray, B and I skin up and walk over to an area of gentle terrain. The snow is like smooth icing covering the hills and dusting the trees. Lovely, peaceful, quiet, snowflakes slowly drifting down from the clouds.

IMG_9666 (640x427)I make my first turns in the boot top powder. Exhilarating.

IMG_9670 (640x420)The afternoon goes by as we walk up, ski down, walk up, ski down, walk further up, ski down all the way to the lodge.

My legs and feet are humming. I have some sore spots on my feet from my borrowed boots. It has been a GREAT first day of backcountry skiing. I will see what tomorrow brings.

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Backcountry Skiing Packing List

Now that I have added backcountry skiing to my repertoire of sports and reasons to travel, I need a packing list. Murray has one but it is hand written. Time for the official Backcountry Skiing – Day Trips Packing List. The list is found under the “Packing Lists” tab on the main menu bar.

This list is for day trips only, with a view that emergency gear is carried in case we are caught out overnight. Thus the bivy sack, candles, flashlight, matches and silver blanket.

Murray is stronger and his pack is larger than mine so when we go together I will not take some of the items (wire, bivy sack, scraper etc) on the list. I still think I need enough to survive on my own in an emergency.

My first trip into the backcountry will be up at Sol Mountain Lodge, near Vernon, BC. We will be there for 3 full days of skiing. I will let you know how it goes and any changes to the packing list.

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Kicking Horse Ski Resort

10 am Sunday. We load up the Rav4 to drive from Edmonton to Golden, BC to ski at Kicking Horse Ski Resort planning to arrive in the Lake Louise area about mid-afternoon, hopefully after the forecasted heavy snow fall has ceased and the road crews have graded the highway. We hit it almost perfectly. The highway is clear of the massive amounts of snow and the pavement is wet, not icy.

We arrive west of Golden, at the Il Nido Country Inn, at about 7 pm after stopping in Golden for supper at the Ledgendz Diner. Mid 1950’s décor with bright red upholstery, black and white checkered floor, booths, tables and a counter. Murray manages to consume a monte cristo sandwich, a bowl of mushroom soup and a chocolate milkshake, the size of which I have not seen in awhile.  I enjoy a “Just a Burger” hamburger and fries. YUM!

The Il Nido is tucked away above the main highway out of Golden. It is a large log cabin building with 2 small kitchenette suites and 2 bedrooms in the main area of the building. We are in the Eagle Suite and it is cozy and warm. The view from the window where I sit is generally north and the mountains are covered in a dusting of snow from the last few days.

Kelly, the huge teenage Chesapeake Bay Retriever, came to greet us as we arrived and is as big as me, so naturally he made me just a little bit nervous. Hate to end up on the wet snowy ground being licked silly by a big brown goofball.

Vie from the Golden Eagle Express Gondola

View from the Golden Eagle Express Gondola

10 am Monday. We are standing atop the mountain at Eagle’s Eye at Kicking Horse Ski Resort. It has snowed 22 cm in the last 12 hours. My first try at powder. We start our ski down on a groomed run and then Murray takes us to a run with deep powder. He says “Just ski like you normally do. You’ll do fine.”

Two turns, I am sitting back, PHOOMP! Down I go. Swim in the snow, get up. Three turns, weight is all wrong, AHHH!, PHOOMP! Down I go. This time my skis are uphill from my body. Swim in the snow, get up. Five turns, SHIT! PHOOMP! Down I go. Four turns. PHOOMP! Down I go.…..This is going well.

We manage to get me all the way down the hill to the base of the gondola. I am sweating profusely (not good) and extremely tired (also not good) after just one run. We agree I need a rest, so Murray rides the gondola by himself for a solo run and I sit in the sun at a picnic table.

When he returns we ride the Catamount Chair and ski green runs down to the base. MUCH BETTER! The snow isn’t as deep and I can maneuver through it. No wipeouts.

Kicking Horse Ski Resort

View down the valley

The views from the gondola and ski hill are of the valley that stretches east and west. It is a bowl shaped valley created by a receding glacier. The clouds are hanging about mid mountain this morning and it was cool to ride the gondola through the clouds and out the top.

Lunch is a welcome break and we then we ride up the gondola to Eagle Nest again. WOW, this time, skiing through pretty much the same terrain I do not wipe out once. WHO HOO! Progress!! By the bottom, my knee is talking to me so I sit at the picnic table again while Mur has another run by himself. I watch other skiers ski down the last pitch and some are good and some are not. I wonder how I actually look compared to others.  Murray skies down and I marvel at how smooth he looks. (I do have to keep telling myself that he has skied for 45 years and I have skied for what? 4.5 months!)

Kicking Horse Ski Resort

Waiting for Murray at the bottom of the hill

We toddle off to the vehicle and our ski day is done. PHEW!

Supper at Whitetooth Bistro. Dark red walls, black tables and chairs. Local artist’s photography and paintings adorn the walls. Murray samples the gnocchi with creamy pesto and red peppers. I try the miso salmon with rice and broccolini. Both are flavorful.  Total bill about $50. Would recommend it.

10 am Tuesday. We are riding up the Catamount Chair to ski green runs. Groomed runs are the plan for today so I can work on technique, plus overnight the nice powder will have set up to form icy ridges and a bumpy ride. Murray has his telemark skis for today.

I have a good day skiing, lots of green runs and a handful of blue runs from one trip to the mountain top. We discover that Kicking Horse is well suited for real beginner and advanced skiers, but it does lack terrain for a real intermediate skier. Many of the intermediate (blue) runs are leaning towards advanced more than intermediate.

We eat lunch both days at the lodge at the bottom of the hill. A slice of pizza, burger (no bun), fries and 2 drinks cost about $25. The other choice for food is the Eagle Eye Restaurant at the top of the mountain but a quick check shows that lunch for 2 would be about $50. Too pricey for us for lunch.

A good two days skiing at Kicking Horse. Powder. Groomed runs.  Too many wipeouts. Sunny skies. Warm temperatures. Lots of turns.

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San Salvador, Bahamas

When we got home from Myanmar, I was tired. Part of the tiredness was from not scheduling down time during our 4 week adventure. Part of the tiredness was from, in my opinion, traveling consistently every fall for 4 or 5 years.

If I look backwards, our trips have been to Myanmar/Maldives, Tanzania/Botswana, Bhutan/India, China/Tibet and Greece. These are not small trips. In between these trips we have been traveling in the spring on scuba diving trips – Cozumel, Utlia, Bonaire.

That’s a great deal of traveling, and plenty of travel planning. We plan all our own flights, tours when needed, hotels and diving and the planning takes months for a long and far away journey. I’m tired and need a break.

We have decided that we are not going on a “big” trip this fall. Instead, we are going to do two scuba diving trips. One in April, to Virgin Gorda with our New York friends and one in July with our Edmonton friends.

We have settled on San Salvador, Bahamas for the July trip as Murray has wanted to go there ever since it was recommended to him as a great place to dive. The travel planning is done except for a hotel in Nassau for two quick overnight stays enroute. The planning for San Salvador is easy as there are actually only 2 or 3 places to stay on the island. We are staying at the Riding Rock Inn. Flights are booked without hassle (so far) and we’re ready to go under the sea!

The planning for these two trips has been relatively painless and it feels marvelous to not have to work for months sorting through information. The break in the fall will be good for us and, no doubt, we will continue our long distance exploration of the globe in 2015.

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Off to the Mountains!

Two days of skiing in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. For me, day one is cross country skiing at the Canmore Nordic Centre and day two is alpine skiing at Sunshine – a chance to test my skiing ability on some more serious terrain. GULP!

Day One

This morning Murray heads out early to meet up with his backcountry buds to venture into the wild. R&D and I decide to cross country ski at the Canmore Nordic Centre.

D takes us up above Banff Trail onto the Olympic Loop. We start out climbing and climbing……and climbing…..and climbing some more. We ski up Beckie’s Hill, named for Beckie Scott after she won a gold medal in the 2005 world cup. We finally stop climbing and are able to take a breather when the tracks level out. We connect to Meadowview and after a couple of speedy hills we take a break above the “meadow” (or mine scar) to admire the crystal blue skies and massive mountains.

Canmore Nordic Centre View

Our view above the meadow

It is a perfect day to be outside enjoying winter.

Canmore Nordic CentreWe descend on the far side of the meadow. R heads down to the Banff Trail for the trip back to the lodge. D and I continue on Meadowview to the end of the trail where it connects to Bow and Banff Trails. It is a great ski, mostly down.

We take a short rest before skiing Banff Trail back to the lodge. I realize very quickly that it is an uphill slog back towards the meadow. I set my pace and once past the meadow the down hill starts that takes me almost to the lodge. D and I check our skis at the end and realize that our kick wax has been totally worn off. A great ski on a beautiful winter day!

Canmore Nordic Centre

Coming in after my ski

Day Two

9:30 finds Murray and me standing at the top of the Wawa Quad Chair at Sunshine Village. This is it! My first day of skiing in the mountains. Here we go!

We ski Meadow Park (a green run) a couple of times and then Tincan Alley (a blue run) a couple of times. I have to work hard on the intermediate runs and think about what I am doing.

After a quick break we ride up the Mount Standish Express and ski a blue run on that side of the mountain. Murray sees a run to do and we do that one too. It is narrow and has a steep drop-off on one side. I am learning about side sloped hills and how to ski them. Loooong turn short turn loooong turn short turn. Later I learn it is actually a black diamond run.

View from Angel Chair

View from the top of Angel Chair

On the more shallow sections of the runs, I practice my technique and tying all the pieces together. Murray says it is looking really good. I find when we are on the steep pitches, I don’t pole as I am concentrating on just getting down.

View from Angel ChairMurray wants to take me down a run called South Divide which starts at the very top of the mountain. The view is breathtaking up here. As we ski down, my body is telling me it is fatigued. My technique is falling apart, I start turning my body instead of just my legs, but I ski it and I’m proud.

skiingBy the time we get back to the lodge area, we both decide to call it a day. We ski Banff Avenue, the ski out all the way down to the parking lot. My only spill for the day and it is on the ski out! My body is not listening to my brain anymore and one leg decides to do something on it’s own and WHAM! on the ground!

As we drive home my body is thrumming in tiredness and I am pleased with my two days of skiing in the mountains.

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