Bartolome Island, Galapagos

We are posting 2 posts a day to catch up for when we were in the “no WIFI zone”. Check below for another new post.

My sleep in is interrupted by a grinding noise, then a sloshing sound, and the bed is rolling from side to side. Up to this point I have slept solid and now it is an on and off thing. We’re moving towards tomorrow’s dives and it is the first night on the boat for a couple of landlubbers.

The day starts with a land tour of Bartolome Island. Not much there really. A walkway over desolate solidified lava to the top of a fairly short volcano. There is a cactus or two and some other scrub, the occasional lizard but that is about all. The view includes some of the adjacent islands and we get an idea as to the layout of the territory.

Bartolome Island

Bartolome Island

We get back on the Panga and tour the shore line. Our first sighting of the blue footed booby is just around the corner but the highlight is a short Galapagos Penguin standing on a rock preening. The only time northern folk get to see this bird is in the zoo so to see them up close and personal is a treat.

Blue Footed Booby

Blue Footed Booby

On the mother ship, after lunch, we prepare for out next dive. The gear is different than what we use in the Caribbean. The wetsuits are 7mm thick. They are not only a struggle to get on but require you to about double the amount of weight you need to carry. Everything is more awkward and takes longer. Most on board do not deal with this amount of gear and everyone struggles.

Both dives today are at Cousin’s Rock. A relatively easy place to dive and it is obvious practice for the next few days. One dive we go clockwise and the second dive is counter clockwise. We see most of the same animals only in reverse order. A few white tip sharks nodding a bit before a evenings work (they are nocturnal), a couple of large eels, a small group of eagle rays and quite a few very large tortuga. One extremely big fellow I’m guessing 6’ long and about 4’ wide.

Hawksbill Turtle

Hawksbill Turtle

Neither dive is difficult but as I mentioned I think they are practice for the more technical dives in our near future. After the second dive today everyone is feeling more confident.

As I write, the boat is again on the move and when we awake in the morning we will be above our next dive site.

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San Cristobal, Galapagos

First dive. There is a reason why they call it a checkout dive. Nerves. Too much weight. More nerves. Short legs. Poor visibility.

Then a sea lion! Cavorting. Twirling. Gliding.

Galapagos Sea Lion

Galapagos Sea Lion

We have reached the Galapagos Sky moored in the harbour off San Cristobal Island in the Galapagos.

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Ready, Set…..and Here We GO!

An early wake up time made for a restless sleep. We are up before 5:30 showering, breakfasting and doing those last minute house items from the list. Locking windows, throwing out garbage, turning off taps.

There is a certain amount of anxiety this morning as we travel to the airport and proceed through check in, security and US customs. Murray wins the prize today and is chosen for a special screening. SSSS is on his boarding card. Unfortunately, no lollipop for the honor. Once we are at the gate, my anxiety subsides. Our Houston flight is on time, we are on our way. Murray’s anxiety lasts until we have taken off and are really on our way.

The flight is noisy. There is a group of young men in front of us drinking beer at 10 am. I wonder what is taking them to Houston, or beyond. There is also a group of students further back in the plane. Not many children but loads single travelers, probably businesspeople. I am always curious as to where everyone is going. Once we land in Houston we encounter the students again – looks like they are jetting off to Costa Rica.

The flight from Houston to Quito is uneventful and we arrive 25 minutes early. Finally in Quito after a long day in the air.

We try to go to sleep but we are both breathing rapidly and our hearts are working hard. The high altitude is affecting us. Each time we relax enough, our breathing slowing to fall asleep, we jerk awake due to lack of oxygen. We finally drift off into a fitful sleep and get enough of a rest to wake up ready to tour Quito. By morning our breathing and heart rates have normalized.

Murray had arranged with our airport pickup driver, Jose, to take us to the Equator. But at 9:00 Javier, one of three hotel drivers drives up, he has drawn the short straw and is to ferry us around today. R, K, Murray and I pile into his small taxi and we are off for a 45km drive through Quito and into the agricultural countryside. Our path takes us through a lush area that grows roses for export, past corn fields and orchards and bright green farmland. We drive up and down and around and up and down and around.

Murray and I straddling the Equator!

Murray and I straddling the Equator!

At “La Mitad del Mundo”, the middle of the world a conscientious, friendly young man explains the history of the area and the workings of the sundial. Ecuador was the perfect place to take initial readings for the equator as there were clear sight lines to the mountains and hills beyond. This wasn’t possible in other areas where the equator runs through, like the Amazon in Brazil. At the equator one can see the stars and constellations in both hemispheres. A fact I didn’t realize and I mention to my travel buddies that when we are on the dive boat in the Galapagos we will have to go on deck one clear night and do some star gazing.

Javier drops us off in Quito’s Old Town at the Basilica del Voto Nacional. A huge church that could be a sister to Notre Dame in Paris, except the gargoyles are animals indigenous to Ecuador – tortoises, iguanas and armadillos. We wander away from the Basilica amongst the Saturday crowds, stopping here and there to look at shops, more churches, squares and parks.

 Basilica del Voto Nacional

Basilica del Voto Nacional

We heard so much about how dangerous Quito is. We were not once concerned for our safety and we walked from Old Town to New Town, about a 5 km distance. We were careful and watched our pockets and bags and Murray’s Spidey sense was on full alert. Our day spent in Quito was very enjoyable and we got a very good sense of what Quito is all about.

Quito Architecture

Quito Architecture

Tomorrow…on to the Galapagos.

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The Division of Labour of Trip Planning

Murray and I have a natural division of labour when it comes to planning and preparing for a trip. I guess it follows from what our strengths are.

Murray does most of the reading and gathering of information. He has an extreme ability to sit in front of his computer for hours on end. I would just go bonkers. He reads Trip Advisor and various websites until he is satisfied that he has all the information we need to make decisions on where to go, where to stay, what to do, what to pack and how to travel. He is always more informed than me. I just go along for the ride and follow with whatever he has planned.

When we went to Arizona, Murray suggested we go to Mesa Verde National Park. I said okay, not knowing what he was talking about. Well, it is one of the premier ancestral peoples’ sites in the US and was very interesting. Murray’s research pays off.

Murray is also in charge of gathering the information that we take with us. Most of this is photocopied pages of travel books or printouts from websites. Small city maps, lists of “must see” or “must do” and notes on things like tipping and extra charges. We try to keep the amount of paper to a minimum as it is heavy and eats up our carry-on baggage weight allowance. As we use the information, we throw away the paper or use it for notes for future posts.

I do most of the gathering and sorting of stuff. I put together the first aid kit, gather the “liquids”, sort and pile dive and travel gear. Movement, organizing, crossing off lists – that’s my shtick.

When we get closer to our departure date, we start working more in tandem. We both review all the paper Murray has collected, sort it and organize it for the trip. We go over the items on the packing list that are not crossed off and deal with them. Take them? Leave them? How many? Which ones?

By the time we leave, our separate and together preparations bring us to a good trip plan and well packed luggage.

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One Month

We are down to a month before our Galapagos Islands departure. I am trying to keep the excitement at bay. We have said this before…..about heading out with a minimum of expectations and letting the trip unfold as it may, whatever takes place is more likely to be astounding.

Quelling the anticipation is hard this time for two reasons. First, the Galapagos has been on my radar for a long time. It is one of THE diving destinations in the world. I learned this quite some time ago and have wanted to go there since. The water is a little cooler than the tropical areas we normally dive and this was a barrier for Debbie. I managed to tweak her interest, and in fact change her attitude completely, when I arrived home with stories of the seal (maybe sea lions) pups playing with the snorkelers.

Second, it is a long time since we have been anywhere that is a challenge to travel. Our trip to Arizona was in a familiar country where English is the language of legislation and very easy to travel. The wanderlust in both Debbie and me is welling and I think it is time to leap from our comfort zone.

This is a truncated trip and we will have to be really efficient with our movements. We have preplanned hotels, but we do not know what it is we are going to do at each stop. I have been reading websites and blogs and have found enough activities to keep us busy for at least twice the time we have so now we have to pick what we think will be the highlights and go with them.

Arriving in Quito we have to have a one day plan. Get up early and go as fast as the altitude will allow. A bottle of O2 may be in the offing. The two Galapagos islands we are going to spend some time on will require the same amount of tenacity, but no oxygen.

The plans are tightening and my stomach is bubbling. I’m trying to remain calm but excitement seems to be winning.

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Packing Starts for our Trip to the Galapagos

Six and a half weeks before we jet off and I get itchy to start packing for our dive trip to the Galapagos. It may be because my time at home is broken up by trips to Lethbridge to care for my daughter during her chemo treatments, or it may be the water and the sea life calling me. I am just ready to start packing.

I “spring clean” our library, where we stage our packing, print off a packing list (found under “Packing Lists” in the main menu bar) and start digging stuff out. From the front closet, meant for coats, I pull out our BCDs. From the basement jock room closet, I find my dive hoodie and bring it upstairs. I precariously pull our dive fins and the box of dive gear off the top shelf of the bedroom closet. The stuff is all over the house.

As I place Murray’s stuff on one side of the library and my stuff on the other side, I mark our packing list with an “M” and “D” noting they are in the piles. We will highlight the items once they are safely in our suitcases. I go slowly through our “dive box” digging out duplicate gear, marking the packing list and filling the room.

Debbie laying out gear

Debbie laying out gear

By the time I get most of the dive gear sorted, I am pooped. I will tackle the “travel box” another day. The stuff that isn’t sorted stays in the centre of the room. Very organized! I also have a list of things to check/do/fill/buy. This list is something like the following:

  1. Buy more Sudafed (for ears while diving).
  2. Print more dive logs sheets.
  3. Buy more legal sized paper so I can print more dive log sheets!
  4. Take dive regulators to shop for quick check.
  5. Check out camera, housing and associated cords etc.

All this stuff takes time and I hate doing it in a panic. And this is just what came up from the dive gear. We still have clothing/first aid kit/miscellaneous stuff to go through! That is why I started six and a half weeks early!

Library after first crack at packing

Library after first crack at packing

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Choosing and Booking Hotels for a Trip

We have a process we use to book hotels for our trips. The process is time consuming, but we are retired and do have some time to apply to this process. And the results have worked for us very well in the past.

Once we have determined which locations we need hotels in, Murray dives into Trip Advisor and reads and reads and reads and reads. He reads the excellent ratings and the terrible ratings and attempts to decipher the underlying causes for the ratings. It’s surprising how often someone wants 5 star service for a 2 star price. Or how some people blame the hotel for their lack of travel experience and warped idea of how a holiday is supposed to go.

After much time spent in front of the computer, Murray comes up with a short list of hotels he likes and thinks will be funky to stay at. This is where I enter. See, I do not have the patience for all this reading; just give me the short list! I do a quick look at each hotel’s website just to familiarize myself with them. While doing this I make notes on questions we would like to ask.

I then send an email, specific to each destination, to all the hotels on the list.  Our questions are different for hotels in Quito than in San Cristobal. The idea of sending emails is to start a conversation with the hotel. We can tell a lot by the responses we receive. Are they friendly? Chatty? Curt? Do they actually answer the questions? We are not impressed with a reply that says “Please see our website for all the information we asked about.” That is not the purpose of this email conversation!!!

I sit down, write a draft email for the Quito hotels, say, and send it to each hotel separately. Sometimes I use their email address and sometimes I to go through their “Contact” page. For this trip I did 3 batches – Quito, San Cristobal and Santa Cruz – with 8, 5 and 4 hotels, respectively. This occupied me for an entire evening.

Here are the email questions we sent to the hotels in Santa Cruz:

Good afternoon!
My husband and I are traveling to Santa Cruz in mid May. We are looking for a non smoking room with a matrimonial bed and private bathroom for the nights of May 19, 20 and 21.

What is the cost of the room? Is this price per room, or per person in the room? Does the price include the taxes? Does it include breakfast? 

Do you accept credit cards and is there a charge for using it?

Are there restaurants close by? How far are you away from the public pier? How far are you away from the bus to the airport? 

Thank you for your assistance and we look forward to your reply!

From the response emails, we email back asking a couple of other questions or for a clarification. As we receive the responses, I type the answers into one of my famous spreadsheets so we can analyze the data. Sometimes we do wait days for a response so this part of the process takes about a week. (NB It is good to have friend that can read Spanish as a couple of the responses were in the language of the host country. We DO NOT count this as a negative. We feel it is our job to learn their language but in the mean time our buddy P was a huge help.)

We then choose the hotel we want to stay at and book it. I send out “thank you” email notes to the hotels we do not choose. It is important to be good travel ambassadors and thank folks for spending time with us. And then we are done…… hotels booked!

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Mistaya Photos

Mistaya Tracks

Mistaya Tracks

Murray’s photos of his trip to Mistaya are now posted. To find them, go to the “Photos” menu item, hover over the word “Photos” until the drop down menu appears. Scroll down (you may have to use your mouse wheel to get to the bottom of the list) until you come to the “Western Canada….” item. Click on it and wait for the photos to load. Scroll down to the bottom of the photos. The Mistaya photos are the last group of winter photos, right after the bike race pics. Click on the first Mistaya photo and use the arrow button on the right to move through the slide show.

Enjoy!

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Last Day of Skiing at Mistaya Lodge

The ultimate day of skiing. When we get up there is 13 cm of new snow on the ground and it is still snowing when there is enough light to see out the window. A short while later a bit of blue sky appears, the hole gets bigger and bigger and finally we realize it is going to be a clear day.

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This is the sixth full day of skiing and everyone is moving just a little slower. We are still moving to getting on the snow but it is obvious we are not going to be out there at 10, the time we seem to have hit 5 days in row. Ten minutes late and we are bound for Grindl Glacier. We had skied there a couple of days ago but the tracks have been filled in with wind drift and with the snow last night we expect to have a clean slate to work with.

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The up track has to be reset but we have an idea where we want to go, we learned that last time, the big difference this time is we can see. The end goal is visible, making it far easier to set a track. The vision is good and there is no reason to let me go first but the folks I’m with say go ahead, there is lots of room for tracks, and someone doesn’t have to ask me twice so I get to etch my mark on an smooth ubiquitous surface. By the time we leave we have used up about ½ the available snow, but we have other fish to fry.

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Mohawk ridge awaits. J and I were there yesterday and T and Jo had not been there this trip yet. The 13 cm of new snow is quite evident on the wind sheltered up track and even though there is a set track we still have to plow our way to the top. J and I know where the good snow is and we let Jo and T in on our secret. Oh, the run is good. All of us have a grin. J and I go up again.

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J and I have skied together all week and our last run is off Red Ridge through the trees which tends back towards the lodge.

Oh my, what a day, what a week. We had a few OK runs and a whole bunch of great runs. The chopper comes tomorrow. I think we have had an abundance of skiing, but civilization beckons.

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The Trip Up

The reason for the trip up is the trip down. I spend a lot of time talking about the trip down which is of course is the reason for the trip up. But traveling on the up track has its own appeal.

The routine. Lengthen the poles. It is much easier to use the poles to assist my forward movement if they are 15 or so cm longer than my regular ski poles. Flip the switch on my boots to walk mode. The ski mode limits the movement of the cuff and inhibits the for/aft movement of the ankle making walking more difficult. Apply the skins to the base of the ski. This is absolutely imperative. The skins have a hairy texture that allows for sliding forward and which grabs the snow stopping any backward movement.

Unzip the side zip of my pants to my knees. When walking uphill the large muscles in the legs produce a lot of heat and having the breeze blow through at that level helps keep my core temp down. Put the jacket zipper at ½ mast. Again allowing heat to disperse and keeping the core temp down. Off comes my tuque and I tuck it into my jacket ready for use if required. Last I lock my ski brakes up and free my boot heel from the binding heel lock down mechanism.

The walk starts. We start as a group but different rates of travel and different fitness levels determine how the single file line of skiers shakes out. We all travel at our own speed but gather up every 15 or so minutes. The faster group sets the track making it much easier for the followers to travel. Unless there is an old up track to follow we have to walk through unpacked snow, it is rough travel, hard work and energy sapping so we share the load.

Often along the track I find myself alone. The walking movement is repetitive. There is absolutely no sound other than what I am making with my skis and it is in sync with the movement. All of a sudden the world disappears. I call this Zen. Everything is calm, any pains I have are no longer evident and each step brings me closer to my goal.

Every once in a while we stop and smell a few roses. We watch a winter insect frolic in the snow, check out the prints left by animals that have passed through, notice unusual types of flora, like white bark pine and look high to see the majestic rocky surroundings.

We also constantly monitor the weather and snow conditions. Not only because we are interested in the quality of our run down but we keep our eyes and ears open and feel the snow trying to determine the conditions of the area and if an avalanche is likely.

It’s a walk in the woods, a winter walk in the woods, it’s beautiful, but it is a means to an end. I finally reach our destination and the routine at the top is reverse of what I did at the bottom. I turn my skis down and the smile appears on my face.

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