Road Blocks down to Little Cayman Island

The pressure of travel is reduced on our first leg of travel as we are only flying to Houston. No tight connections to make. Travel through the Edmonton airport, on the flight and through the Houston airport is easy, we get road blocked waiting for our free shuttle ride to the hotel. We are told the shuttle will be 15 minutes. At 30 minutes we phone again. Oh, in 10 minutes it will be there. Phone again. 10 minutes. At the 1 3/4 hour mark, the shuttle shows up. No explanation, no sorry, just a frustrated look on the driver’s face. Well, it is free.

While we watch every other hotel shuttles drive by numerous times, the sky gets furious and spews rain, lightning and thunder over our heads. The rain does not abate by the time we are at the hotel so we ask at the desk where we can eat that is close by. The clerk tells us that the sister hotel across the parking lot offers supper for $5. Pasta, marinara sauce, meatballs, salad, soup, dessert, juice, wine, beer……all for $5!!! And it is pretty tasty!

We sleep like rocks and are now sitting at gate E3 waiting for our fight to Grand Cayman. And….another road block. The sky is still furious. The weather gods have not been appeased and are now spewing forth lightning enough to close the runways. We are delayed. It is now pins and needles whether we make our connection on Cayman Airways over to Little Cayman Island.

ROAD BLOCK!!!

After pleading with the flight attendant to let us off the airplane first, getting off first, running through immigration, customs and the Grand Cayman airport we are 5 minutes late for the flight to Little Cayman. It is the Comfort Suites on Seven Mile Beach for tonight. A dip in the ocean and supper of jerk chicken makes life good again.

Posted in Little Cayman Island | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Little Cayman Island – Minimal Clothing – Carry On of Course!

We are getting close to our trip to Little Cayman. It’s a dive trip and we are going with a minimal of day to day clothing. Well mostly.

Female vanity is striking again….. slightly. Here is what I am wearing on the plane:

  • sandals
  • shorts
  • undies and sports bra of course
  • lightweight wool T Shirt
  • dive rash guard shirt
  • lightweight rain jacket (it’s one of my running jackets)

Below is what is packed, either in my knapsack or my carry on bag:

  • sun dress
  • lightweight wool skirt
  • sleeveless blouse
  • dressier bra and 1 pair of undies
  • lightweight wool shirt that will double for sleeping in and wearing
  • 1 pair of socks for warmth on the plane
  • flip flops
  • sarong
  • 3 swim suits – I know, sounds excessive
  • sunhat and buff

This is NOT a lot of clothing! I have 3 evening outfits (mix and match) and 1 strictly day time outfit, that is not dive related. Not bad. More about that later. We also have a small bottle of liquid clothes detergent that will be mostly empty when we return.

The following is what Murray is wearing on the plane:

  • sandals
  • convertible pants
  • underwear
  • 1 pair of compression socks
  • short sleeve cotton T shirt
  • WARM LAYER

Murray’s knapsack and carry on luggage will contain:

  • 1 pair of shorts
  • 2 Cotton T shirts
  • 1 pair underwear
  • flip flops
  • 1 swim suit (editor’s note; not excessive at all)
  • old T shirt for a dive shirt
  • tilley hat
Debbie's dive clothing

Debbie’s dive clothing

We divide the clothes into three main categories – to/from diving, day clothes, evening clothes. For example, my diving clothes are swim suit, rash guard shirt, sarong, sunhat and flip flops. For day clothes I have shorts, lightweight wool shirt, undies/sports bra or swimsuit, sandals or flip flops, sunhat. Evening clothes are undies/bra, dress or skirt and blouse/shirt, sandals. Lots of choice and all my favorite pieces!

Debbie's day clothing

Debbie’s day clothing

The main idea behind the “diving” and “day” clothes and “evening” clothes is the first two get sweaty, dirty and salty. So we take a set of clothes that can handle this abuse and are separate from the evening clothes. The evening clothes won’t get as sweaty and are only worn for a couple of hours. Mine won’t need laundering at all over a 10 day stay as each outfit will only get worn 3 times (in my case, of course). Murray is slightly different, not having to deal with the vanity thing – we may have to launder his evening shirt once.

Debbie's evening clothing

Debbie’s evening clothing

Murray’s clothing works pretty much the same way except he isn’t as fashion conscience as I am. Diving – swim suit, old T Shirt, flip flops, hat. Day – shorts, T shirt, underwear or swim suit, sandals or flip flips, hat. Evening – shorts or pants, shirt, underwear and sandals.

Murray's dive, day and evening clothing

Murray’s dive, day and evening clothing

There are airplane and travel day specific clothes – socks, buff and jacket. I use my sarong and buff to wrap up in if I get cold. Murray uses the jacket as a warm layer. The jackets are also a rain layer, if needed. The clothes we wear on the plane double as either day or evening clothes.

Packing is easy as the dress, skirt, shirts and flip flops fit between the struts for the handle in the roller carry on bag. They provide a nice bed for all the dive gear that is going on top and filling up the bag! The swim suits and undergarments are stuffed in my fins or various crevasses. My socks, buff and sarong are in my knapsack and my nice straw hat (vanity strikes again!) gets tied to the outside of my knapsack. We will have fun finishing our packing and see you on the other side!

Bottom of Debbie's Carry on Bag

Bottom of Debbie’s Carry on Bag

 

 

 

Posted in Planning and Packing | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Changing Directions

We arrive home from the Galapagos Islands and I notice our message machine is flashing. Six new messages, three are from United Airlines saying…….”There has been a change in your flights to Grand Cayman and now there is a disconnect. Please call….” Great, barely home from one trip and we have to deal with our next trip. Sigh.

Back in the winter, we booked flights through Houston to Grand Cayman Island on United Airlines and then connecting onto a Cayman Airways hopper flight over to Little Cayman Island. Along with these flights we reserved a condo and scuba diving.

I phone United to find out what the issue is. Apparently the flights for the Edmonton-Houston and Houston-Edmonton legs are no longer operating. The agent explained that we are now booked on a later flight from Edmonton to Houston and that we would have to stay overnight in Houston. Wait a minute……we have a condo and scuba diving waiting for us, we do not want to be late arriving on Little Cayman. I told the agent that we will have to discuss the options and I will phone her back as soon as possible.

Murray and I decide that we want to keep the Houston to Grand Cayman legs the same to not mess up the Cayman Airways flights, condo and scuba diving. That means we will have to fly to Houston a day early, stay overnight and catch the existing Grand Cayman flight. On the way home, we will fly out of the Cayman on the original day, stay the night in Houston and arrive home a day later than planned. I research flights and pick out the exact flights we want.

All this discussion and deciding included our friend, B, who happens to be a teacher and we had to be sure that she could leave a day early. (She was never contacted about the change even though her phone number is on her reservation.) She then gave me the authorization to change her ticket too.

I phone United to make the flight changes. Holy s***! Two hours on the phone. Two hours! First we worked on going to Grand Cayman. We got those flights changed for both B and ourselves. Relatively easy.

Next came the return trip. United had kindly rebooked our return trip for us. Close your eyes. Picture this. Grand Cayman to Washington DC to San Francisco to Toronto to Edmonton. Sounds direct enough, don’t you think? I just laughed at the agent on the phone and said to her “Can you picture that please? There is no way we are flying that route!”. I gave her the exact flights that we want. We are going to fly Houston-Calgary-Edmonton because it gets us home earlier. Now this gave her quite abit of trouble, because even though I could choose the Calgary-Edmonton flight with a United flight number (and an Air Canada flight number), she could not see it. Her system is different than the public online system. She finally went online herself in order to see it, put me on hold for eons to talk to a supervisor and managed to book all three of us on the flight. What a hassle, but it is done. PHEW!

Next came booking a hotel in Houston for those nights we must stay there. We chose the same hotel we stayed in on another trip – Wingate by Wyndham Houston Bush Intercontinental Airport.

So we are all set for Little Cayman and just counting sleeps again before we leave.

 

 

Posted in Little Cayman Island | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Impressions of Ecuador

Impressions of Ecuador

Ecuador is not third world. Not exactly sure how this rating system is applied but I would have to guesstimate Ecuador would rate as second world. The infrastructure condition and the amount of available amenities are not the same as North America or Europe but the folks are surely not suffering. In fact, I think the country is quite progressive.

Ecology

I only visit a very small part of the country but everywhere I go public trash cans have been converted into recycle stations where there are three bins for disposing of assorted refuse. One for garbage, one for recyclable metal and plastic and a third for organics. We live in a city that is a world leader in recycling and there are only a few of these types of stations placed throughout the city, but in Ecuador the single trash can is in the minority.

In 2017, Ecuador will shut off the last of their fossil fuel electrical plants and depend solely on renewable sources, hydro, solar and wind to provide the country with the required supply of electricity. This is far ahead of anything I have heard about in the so called first world. Kudos.

Public Washrooms

There seemed to be an adequate number of public washrooms about. Sometimes there is a toll to enter but all of the establishments I made use of were in good condition and respectably clean enough. This is not the case in most of the world and again first world countries could learn a thing or two.

Infrastructure

The roads we travel on, even in the remote Galapagos Islands, are in at least as good a shape as the roads here in Edmonton. The roads in Quito are excellent and the new highways are outstanding. In Canada we do have some weather challenges that mess up the roads but this is not a new thing and we should be able to maintain our roads to the condition of those in Ecuador.

Ecuador’s sidewalks could be improved. The sidewalks in Quito are quite good but the sidewalks in Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno are on par with Asia or Africa which requires walking on the road for a good part of any stroll around town.

Buildings

There is a lot of construction taking place. Flashy, modern buildings are being built alongside stately older structures in both Quito and the smaller communities on the Galapagos. There is some respect for the existing fabric and a lot of ‘heritage’ buildings remain close to their original state or renovated to modern standards.

Old vs New in Quito

Old vs New in Quito

The urban areas do have their share of dilapidated buildings but so does every city I have ever visited and they are no more unsightly than in my home town.

Safety

Whenever we decide to go somewhere we always hear how dangerous the place is and how one should not carry any valuables and be sure to be indoors after dusk. I do know that one has to be diligent when walking about anywhere and that tourists are easy targets for the local bad guys, but after spending a day in Quito I did not find it any more threatening than anywhere else I have been. We kept our wits about us and the one place we spot a bit of trouble we turn back towards the crowded centre of town and avoid any possible confrontation with the inebriated combatants. I don’t think Quito is any more dangerous than any other city in the world.

People

The people we meet and deal with on a one on one basis are wonderful. They are helpful, cheerful and friendly. In fact more congenial than other places. I find the atmosphere to be warm and welcoming.

Siesta

They still happen between noon and 3 pm (or sometime in those hours when the desire hits) everyday. After we found out about it we adopt the rhythm ourselves and go back to the hotel room between those hours. The rest was appreciated.  Since we are close to the equator, this timing would of course put us out on the street looking for supper after the sun went down at 6 pm but not once did I feel threatened.

Bicycles

We do ride bikes and we live in a bike unfriendly city. I am amazed that a “second” world country would have bike lanes, but they do. Even in the towns on the Galapagos that have a minimum of traffic there are designated bike roads. Yeah for them!

Bike Lane Sign on San Cristobal

Bike Lane Sign on San Cristobal

Mosquitoes

We must have been in the Galapagos in the mosquito off season because we encountered very few. On the Galapagos Islands there is the potential for huge numbers of the flying blood suckers. The islands have vast expanses of mangroves at the sea’s edge, perfect breeding grounds. The one time we loose a pint of the red stuff is walking back from a beach just after sunset on San Cristobal.

Snorkeling

We read about how good the snorkeling on San Cristobal and Santa Cruz Islands is and are quite excited by the possibilities. Frankly,  in my humble opinion, the snorkeling is dismal. At the sites near the towns there is very little wild life and except for Los Gretas the visibility was less than optimal. If you cannot get out on day trips where I would hope it would be better, leave your snorkel gear at home.

Snorkeling off San Cristobal

Snorkeling off San Cristobal

Smoking

In most cities smoking is banned indoors. This seems to be no different in Ecuador. The difference is there are no crowds of people gathered outside the entrance to office buildings, retail stores or eating establishments puffing away. I do not see very many people smoking at all. I do note a few on the islands but most are tourists. If Ecuadorians smoke, they hide it very well. I’m guessing this has a very positive effect on their health care system.

Ecuador is a outstanding place. I don’t know if we will get back but if the right opportunity arises I would not hesitate.

 

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

High Altitude in Quito, Ecuador

Quito’s elevation is 2,850 m (9,350 ft) so I was preparing for some mild altitude sickness as I had experienced it when we were in Lhasa, Tibet (3,650 m or 11,860 ft). As we were standing in the Immigration line-up, we noticed some wooziness and I thought, “Okay, this isn’t too bad”.

It was hard going up the two flights of stairs to our room in the hotel. I noticed that I did not have a headache yet, which I was expecting. As we were trying to drift off into the dreamworld, as soon as our breathing slowed, we would jerk awake from not enough oxygen. I think eventually fatigue took over and we both passed out.

Amazingly so, the next morning I felt pretty good. No headache, no shortness of breath. As long as I moved slowly I was fine. This experience was alot different than the Lhasa experience, but there was a 2,500 ft difference in elevation. There were no issues falling asleep on night two.

Hopefully my body is getting used to this high elevation thing with trips to Lhasa, Quito, Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado (8,572 feet or 2,613 m) and Taos, New Mexico (6,967 feet  or 2,124 m) so the next time we venture into the clouds (Machu Picchu at 7,970 ft or 2,430 m)  I will not suffer like I did in Lhasa.

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged , | Leave a comment

After Thoughts

Biodegradable Soap/Shampoo Bar

In the Galapagos, it is requested that biodegradable soap, shampoo and conditioner are used. Even though the dive live-aboard boat supplied these, I wanted to take some with us for our land portion. We had carried a Tea Tree soap bar with us to India and Bhutan and it worked well. Unfortunately, it is not labeled as biodegradable.

Knotty Boy Soap

I found  a bar made by Knotty Boy called “All Purpose Shampoo Bar” made with 100% Olive Oil that stated it is “100% biodegradable and mountain-stream friendly”. It tested well as both a shampoo and body soap at home. So the bar went to the Galapagos with us.

After using the bar for a few days on the islands, I noticed that even right after a shower, my arm pits still smelled. (It was rather hot and sweaty there!).  Not acceptable. The soap may clean but it wasn’t getting rid of the odor. It was much nicer on my hair than the Tea Tree soap.

So, after trying this bar, it got left in the garbage on Santa Cruz. If a soap is needed for a good clean, especially for odor, I would not recommend this one.

Rain Ponchos

We took light rain jackets with us to the Galapagos. We quickly found out that they were not the best rain gear to deal with the torrential downpours that can happen on the islands. My jacket got soaked through and my shorts still got wet as they showed below my jacket.

We would recommend light weight rain ponchos that cover a person down to the knees or below. I saw some vendors that sold very very thin almost see through, ponchos and was tempted to buy one if we had stayed longer.

“It’s Not Free”

The scuba diving in the Galapagos is hard. We work hard before, during and after a dive. “It’s not free” is the comment most heard on the dive live-aboard and I must agree with it. It was NOT free.

salema

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged | Leave a comment

Santa Cruz, Galapagos

We have had a good time in the Galapagos. The big thing here is the animals and we have managed to see most of what we came to see. The biggest and most unlikely, we did not, the whale shark, as it is the very beginning of whale shark season.

We planned 5 days on land at the end of the dive boat tour and we wanted to see what else was around. While aboard the dive boat we went on 3 different land excursions and had a taste of what there was above water.

Once our feet are on terra firma on Santa Cruz we want to hook up with a land tour or two. I pound the pavement talking to a plethora of  guiding companies and none them are going to any of the places I had picked out prior to arriving. We could get to North Seymour on Friday, unfortunately that is the day our plane leaves. Debbie is not well and after some discussion we think it best not to spend the exorbitant fees to go on the day tours and instead will hack around Puerto Ayora taking in the closer attractions.

Day 1: We hike to Las Gretas – it is a crack in the landscape filled with a mixture of sea water, supplied through an under ground aquifer and fresh water from rain and runoff. The water is cold but very refreshing after a 30 or 40 minute hike in the mangroves. There is a small but picturesque beach half way back to town worth a cool down dip.

The afternoon is spent mooching around town. Checking out the tourist shops, the arrival of the fishing boats at the central dock and having a coke at a street front bar watching the world go by.

 

DCIM100GOPROGOPR0581.

The arrival of the fisher boats is a daily circus of activity. There is a cleaning and selling station on the dock. Several pelicans and one sea lion are aware that this has potential for a free meal. No searching, chasing, or killing involved. Just stand around looking kind of casual and a fish gut or two will end up flying your way.

Day 2: The morning is spent on a manicured, 5 foot wide, paved the entire length with lava rock paving stones and lined both sides with 1 foot high rock wall, trail leading to Bahia Tortuga (Turtle Bay). The walk is kind of odd. It is a nature walk but the high tech trail makes it easy and fast. There are a few birds to see on the way and the terrain is full of trees and bushes, but we don’t know what any of them are and even if we had a guide that explained each and every one I would not remember them.

Trail to Bahia Tortuga

Trail to Bahia Tortuga

The first beach is a long expanse of wonderful sand with 4 or 5 foot waves crashing on the shore. The park ranger and the signs suggest swimming on this particular beach is not a good idea. The currents in the area are strong and can be dangerous, even though the surfers roam these waters in pursuit of their excitement.

A big part of visiting this area is the iguanas, sea lions, turtles, other sea life plus good snorkeling. We are headed to the second beach with the hopes of finding some of these.

Half way there we catch up to an iguana moseying along. He is headed in the same direction as us so we join him for a while noting his walking style. He walks moving his left forefoot and right hind foot forward together at the same time. Then the opposite pair move. This makes for a wiggly, twisty progression forward but according to Darwin these movements would have developed over thousands of years and have served the species quite well. I think I prefer our bipedal movement thanks.

Marine Iguana

Marine Iguana

Having much longer legs then the iguana we leave him behind quite quickly. Our next animal encounter is a human. We see from a distance that she is trying to signal us with odd arm and hand motions. We are quite good at ignoring odd displays and do not rush ahead to see what the fuss is about. But, as we get closer we notice this woman is videoing a small black squiggling object on the sand. A few more steps and the object become recognizable as a baby sea turtle making a mad dash for the perceived safety of the ocean. Oh man this was not something we had expected to see on any trip and here it is in front of us. I then fire up my small video camera and record as much of the 25 m journey as possible. He makes it to the water and we cheer!!

GO GO GO!!!

GO GO GO!!!

The destination beach is stunning. A protected bay by a natural breakwater at the mouth, wonderful sand to lounge on, trees for shade and lousy snorkeling. No sea lions, no iguanas, few fish, murky vis, and despite the name, not one turtle.

The return walk revels a few more sets of  tracks indicating a couple more young turtles have made it to the water, increasing their chance of surviving for another day.

Our afternoon was spent in a similar fashion to yesterday, hanging around main street with the other tourists.

We did get to see examples of most of the animals that make these islands famous and had a mind blowing encounter with mini version of one of the greatest sea creatures on our last day. We are both happy with what we have done and seen here in the Galapagos and return home fulfilled.

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged | Leave a comment

Chill Days in the Galapagos

These last two day have been chill days. Yesterday, we checked out tour agents to see if we could dive a site called Kicker Rock near San Cristabal Island. No go. The few dive boats that were going out were booked. We had enough folks to fill another boat but there are restrictions on the number of divers that can dive any given site on any given day and the quota had been filled.

R, our friend from DC, and our newly minted friends from the dive cruise opted to snorkel at Bahia Tijeretas and swim at Playa Carolas. An easy day of walking, snorkeling, getting rained on and sharing dive experiences with new friends over drinks.

Today, we learn something new. Book your spot on the inter-island ferry early. Not to ensure a ride but to get preferential treatment. We booked two days ago. Two tickets for the 7am ferry on May 19, por favor. Today in the crush at the top of the gang way, when it is time to hand over bags for loading, Debbie hears the lady call, “Murray and Deborah”. Our bags get loaded first. Looks like we are on the boat for sure. As the others hand over their bags the crowd around the entrance gets tighter and denser. As it is time to load, our names are again called and we are able to load first and chose our seats. It is good to be first on the list!

The boat is a smallish seagoing boat with a cabin which holds 20 passengers and has 3 – 200 HP engines. Quite fast for a ferry. We covered 47 N Miles in 1 hour 43 minutes. A might rough but not too bad. Some sections are actually very calm. There is a pod of dolphins playing in the wake and I see one flying fish.

Puerto Ayora has not changed one bit since we were last here (two days ago). A few more cars and the shops are mostly open instead of mostly closed. But other than that it is the same.

Debbie isn’t feeling well so I scout the town, finally get to try an empanada for lunch and procure french fries to take to Debbie. Later in the afternoon we walk to the Darwin Research Centre to take a look at the baby tortoises and the land iguanas. We get soaked for the second time on this island. Seems to be a recurring theme.

tortoises

It was a chill day and we are back in our room, with Debbie dozing and me writing.

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged , | Leave a comment

San Cristobal, Galapagos

We wake up moored in the harbour at San Cristobal, our starting point a week ago. We disembark and say our goodbyes to the divers flying out today. There is a small group staying on the island.

 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobal Island

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the urban centre of San Cristobal, is a town that is not sure of what it is. There are modern buildings and new construction but there are also dilapidated houses and commercial buildings. It is like it is trying hard to be an international destination but it can’t quite compete with the older bigger sister of Pueto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. The noticeable lack of tourists may play a big part.

The sea lions are in abundance in town. The town appears to have confined the sea lions to the beach area by erecting a wire fence that separates the beach from the sidewalk. We walk down onto the beach and get within 10 or so feet of a few sea lions. They are humorous to watch as they search for the best sunning spot just slightly out of the water. They will clamber over one another in their quest for the perfect repose position. We hear mom and pup sea lions calling to one another.

Sea LionsTraffic is sparse. There are taxis, small white trucks, easily hailed. Taxis are relatively cheap, so it is easy and affordable to hop in one instead of walking. Amazingly, there are bike lanes on the roads. But not so many bikes either.

There are an abundance of dive shops in town. Our group of 8 divers staying on the island tried to arrange diving for tomorrow, but even with the many dive operations, the number of boats is restricted so we were not able to go out. We are meeting to go snorkeling and beaching instead.

We will stay on San Cristobal for 2 nights to explore the area and then move over to Santa Cruz.

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Diving Dumb Rock

Last dive today and it was a good one. The site was Dumb Rock near Pinzon Island. The water was the clearest it has been anywhere, not cold as it could be and not a big current. The goals were to find the Red Lipped Batfish, locate a sea horse or two and see what was up in the cleaning station around the corner.

seahorseDive to the sand bottom found two or ten Batfish. Check. Travel towards the wall part of the dive find two sea horses. Check. Sneak over the top of the wall find oh so many turtles in to the cleaning station to be deloused or whatever. Then during our safety stop two sea lions decided they would come over to see what all the fuss was about. The dive master started to play with them and they found it to be great fun and joined in. When we reached the surface the sea lions followed and Debbie found a couple of play mates. We were busy taking off our gear and she is out in the water cavorting with a couple of aquatic acrobats.

It was a good dive.

King Angelfish

King Angelfish

Later on board the mother ship I was on the bridge talking with the captain and one of the crew stuck his head in the door and said baby hammerhead. R, a fellow diver and I jumped out side and stood at the railing watching a miniature giant swimming about very near the surface a few feet from the boat.

giant tortoiseThe last full day ended with our first view of the giant tortoise in the highlands of Santa Cruz. Tomorrow we disembark and are land based for the next few of days.

Posted in Galapagos | Tagged , | Leave a comment