The Salt Pier

The Salt Pier is one of the iconic dive destinations on Bonaire. Everyone goes there. It’s busy. Sometimes there are up to 15 trucks lined up along the shore. We usually avoid the place.

But today is turnover day and many divers are flying home or newly arriving, so we decide to dive the Salt Pier as we know it shouldn’t be congested. And we guess correctly. There are a few trucks lined up, but not the usual hoard.

Last time our friends C&D dove the pier they were disappointed in what they saw so we are hoping they see more this time. And they do.

As we are swimming on our backs out to the deep, I spy a small turtle in the shallows. A great start to the dive and we are not underwater yet.

It only gets better as we find many spotted drum fish, including a teenager.

Bonaire

In the same spot is a juvenile truck fish. He is cute because he looks like a dice.

Boniare

The fish and other creatures are abundant at the pier because all the discarded construction debris makes for a great reef. We ignore the grates and concrete and rebar and concentrate on the wildlife.

Bonaire

We spend over an hour under the surface enjoying the nature but we have to go back to shore eventually as we are running low on air. On our way in to shore, I swim over an octopus and we spend time following it. As he swims, he is one colour, but as soon as he settles on a coral, he changes colour and pattern to match the coral. What a marvellous creature. What a great dive!

Bonaire

 

 

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Comfort

Today we hit our diving stride. It has taken 5 or 6 days but the three dives today were not easy and all were over 70 minutes long. The dives were not super hard with strong currents or anything but the entry and exit of two of the three dives were difficult and the dives themselves I would say were the advanced dives for Bonaire.

Bonaire

Lettuce Leaf Slug

1000 steps is one of the iconic dives for this island. Everyone has heard of it and if you are shore diving you have to do it once or you really have not been to Bonaire. There are 60+ steps from the roadway to the beach. Gear on your back the descent it OK but coming up gets your heart rate up. The dive itself is quite peaceful and the terrain is worth the visit.

Bonaire

Karpata is one of my favorite dives here. The entry/exit is very difficult. The waves are usually quite high and you get knocked about as you try to get in or out. If you can remain on your feet this dive is spectacular. Not as well traveled as most of the dives. It is too far north on a one way road and many, I think, don’t want to deal with the exit and entry.

The last dive, Windsock, is an easy dive off a beach. Still there are things to see and it was a good way to end the day.

Bonaire

The trick to the long bottom time is to be relaxed, move slow and dive a good profile. It always takes a few days to get all the pieces in place but as the pieces fall into place it becomes second nature and you don’t have to concentrate as hard as you do on the first 6 or so dives.

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A Garden of Soft Coral

Murray and I dive a site called Yellow Hut this morning. I knew it would be good when I spy Staghorn Coral on the swim out to the deep water.

We descend to about 60 feet and we see a field of soft corals gently moving in the surge. It is a forest. As we travel south, this forest does not end but actually gets thicker.

Bonaire

We stop and watch a small turtle munch away on a hard coral totally uncaring that we are observing him.

Bonaire

We hang out with a barracuda and he seems to want to travel with us. OK, but I tactically place Murray between our new friend and me. 

Bonaire

We look for seahorses as we move through this forest, but do not find any. As we swim into the shallows at the end of the dive I am thinking we need to return to this dive site again.

Bonaire

 

 

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First Dive on Bonaire

The first dive of a dive trip is always a nervous goofy messed up affair. Today is no different.

Hermit Crab, Bonaire

Hermit Crab strolling past the pool this morning.

We are packing the truck trying to get to the dive shop for around 9:00 to do our sign up, get tanks and do our check out dive. Oh! We forgot snacks and liquids. I run back into our unit. Oh! Mur doesn’t want to take his sunglasses and I forgot mine. We run back into our unit. OK, we think we have everything, right?

Our trip to the dive shop was easy. No video, no check out dive, just hand in papers, get our tanks and we are off. We decide to go to a dive site called “The Lake”. We miss the turnoff and have to double back. We get there and park and check out how we are going to enter the water. Looks pretty good, just some small rocks to walk over and around.

Bonaire

We set up our tanks, BCDs, regs and weights first. They go together pretty good this first time. Oops! Mur put his together with his tank backwards. It fits much nicer the other way. We fix that real quick.

Next are the wetsuits and booties. The suits are dry and mine is a touch hard to pull up. Hope no one is watching! Dive computers, cameras, masks. I spray the masks with our home made mask defogger of baby shampoo and water. Only thing is I didn’t make it strong enough and didn’t spray enough in, so it dries out fast and we are both fogged up by the time we get to the bouy. I will fix that tonight.

Bonaire

We don all our gear and trundle down to the water. We are standing in the water when I realize we haven’t turned on our air yet. Big OOPSIE! Get that turned on, double check everything else and off we go.

We have a pretty scenic dive for the first one. We see many old fish friends and even some new ones. Our rocky start to the day turns into the beginnings of a great day of diving.

Bait Ball, Bonaire

Bait Ball

PS Our subsequent gearing up for dives goes much much better than the first time. In fact, we get our process down pretty da** good.

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Debbie’s Pannier Contents

I thought I would share what I carried in my panniers while we rode through Denmark in case anyone out there needed help in deciding what to take on such a trip. I will divide my discussion into three parts – riding gear, street clothes and other stuff. Here I go.

Riding Gear

On a normal warmish day I would be wearing:

  • bike jersey
  • bike shorts
  • over shorts – looser longish street shorts
  • lightweight bike jacket
  • socks
  • bike shoes
  • helmet and sweat band
  • bike gloves
  • sunglasses
  • bike computer on my bike
  • 2 water bottles

In my panniers would be:

  • 1 bike jersey
  • 1 pr bike shorts
  • 1 pr bike socks
  • prescription glasses
  • rain pants
  • rain jacket
  • long fingered gloves
  • long legged bike tights
  • buff
  • armings

The only riding item I did not wear on this trip were the tights. It was not cold enough to wear them. The rain pants, jacket, long fingered gloves and buff were worn once and I was thankful to have them. Luckily we only got poured on the once, but we could have seen much more rain.

Street Clothes

Here is what was packed in my panniers:

  • 2 pr of pants – one technical, one linen
  • 2 long sleeved Icebreaker shirts
  • 1 short sleeved Icebreaker shirt
  • 1 short sleeved Tonder Music Festival Tshirt bought in Tonder
  • 1 pr heavy socks
  • 3 pr undies
  • 1 lightweight down jacket
  • 1 scarf
  • 1 toque
  • 1 baseball cap
  • 1 pr of lightweight walking shoes

When we cycle toured Prince Edward Island years ago, we got caught in the rain in our only set of street clothes, so on this trip I insisted we take two sets of street clothes. I used everything except the toque. If we had not been attending the music festival, I may have reduced the heavy clothing such as the socks and down jacket, but I needed the warmth for the evenings and cold weather, and they did get worn. I used my riding rain jacket as my street rain jacket.

Other Stuff

  • iPad with padded carrying case
  • iPhone – used for navigation only – Murray actually carried it in his handlebar pannier
  • camera – hung on handlebars in a small case
  • electronics bag with cables, battery chargers, ear buds etc
  • toiletries-soap, toothbrush/paste, moisturizer, sunscreen, shampoo, prescription etc
  • headlamp flashlight
  • plastic cutlery
  • wallet, passport, note book and pen
  • other liquids bag-laundry soap, cold meds, polysporin etc
  • sleep sack and inflatable pillow
  • knee support sleeve, tennis ball and wrist support
  • straps for converting small pannier to shoulder bag
  • 2 bike lock cables and locks
  • lunch for the day-apple, salami, PB, peanuts, chocolate, potato chips etc

All the liquids were in small bottles and Murray also carried a bag of liquids. He also had the “first aid kit”. Some items I did not use and they worked their way to the bottom of a pannier and other items were used everyday. We stayed in hostels 4 nights so used the sleep sack only 4 times and I used the pillow every night. Next time I might leave that at home and only stay in B&Bs as they were much nicer and cost the same.

We tried to keep the weight in my panniers between 20 and 25 pounds. The weight was distributed between the 4 panniers with the front having about 4 pounds each and the back each had about 8 pounds. The one thing we did that saved time when we got to Copenhagen was to make a list of exactly what goes in each pannier. In Copenhagen, I was able to lay out all the panniers and stuff very quickly using the list. Here is what my list looked liked.

I made one front pannier my “purse” which always had my wallet, passport and lunch etc in it. My rain gear was always packed in the same back pannier in close each reach if I needed it quickly.

Debbie Front #1 LEFT (Purse) Front #2 RIGHT
2 cables & locks toiletries
2 straps vitamins
electronics bag knee brace/tennis ball
notebook & pens down jacket
wallet sleep sack
passport towel
glutendairy pills flashlight
pillow
Debbie Back #1 LEFT Back #2 RIGHT
shoes iPad
bike shirt wool hat
bike shorts 2 pants
bike socks 2 long sleeve shirts
sunglasses 1 short sleeved shirt
gortex jacket socks
rain pants undies
armings scarf
gloves
leggings

There are items that could have been left at home, but I think I packed pretty lightly. Until next time……..

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Murray’s Pannier Contents

Murray’s riding gear and street clothes mirrored mine fairly well. He also had a second set of street clothes but did not utilize the clothing like I did and says he would definitely leave the extra pants, socks and one of the shirts at home.

He carried his Asus laptop and commented that he wished he had taken his iPad instead as the laptop made his pannier very heavy. He had the bike tools, pump and chain lube, so his weight was about 30 to 35 lbs total.

He had an extra pannier on his handlebars which carried his heavy SLR camera, the 360 degree camera, wallet, Tums, passport, notepad and reading glasses. The map and iPhone were in a plastic sheath on top of the bag.

Here is what was packed in each of his panniers:

Murray Handlebar notepadandpen
camera Mur reading glasses and case
iPhone theta
wallet toilet paper
passport
Murray Front #1 Front#2
long fingered gloves socks
tights underwear
towel hat
pillow sheet
clothesline first aid kit
tums chargers etc
flashlight 1/2 liquids
1/2 liquids
Murray Back #1 Back #2
bike jersey pants
bike shorts collar shirt
light jacket Tshirt
shoes computer
tools toiletries
pump
tubes wool shirt
rain jacket rain pants
puffy jacket
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Copenhagen in the Wind

Bikes in Copenhagen

Bikes in Copenhagen

Murray is on day two of his cold and I am on day five. He is feeling kinda sh**ty and I finally am feeling mostly human again. After checking the weather forecast, we bundle up and head out for a long walk.

The Opera House is our goal and along the way we make a few stops. We hear that we should stop in at the Treasury Building as it is something to see inside.

Treasury, Copenhagen

In the foyer of the Treasury

Treasury, Copenhagen

Gold Buillion

The foyer is stunning. A six story atrium very sparse and futuristic looking. They actually have a block of gold buillion in a case, that we could pick up, or try to. It weighs 12 kg. We both have to try, of course! Never touched a chuck of gold before!

By the time we walk to the Opera House, the wind is gusting to its forecasted 60 kph and is almost blowing us away. We are disappointed when we realize the building is closed.

Opera House, Copenhagen

Opera House

We wander slowly back to the hotel, stopping for a quick sushi lunch. Murray is losing power and needs to lay down. I find my little prize to take home – one coaster (for my bedside tea cup) of some funny looking Vikings created by Ib Antoni, a well known Danish illustrator.

We have to repack our three bags, not the bike bags thankfully, and we are set to journey home. Tonight we will go for pizza and ice cream, which is appropriate as we were doing Denmark by pizza mostly when we were cycle touring, so we might as well end with pizza. See you on the other side.

Copenhagen

 

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Back in Copenhagen

We take a risk and fly Easyjet from Berlin to Copenhagen. Airfare was about $70. Amazingly, everything goes very smoothly, from the train ride to bus to airport, to clearing security to boarding and landing. We are diligent with their one carry-on bag policy, but noticed that there are people with two bags and folks with larger bags that had trouble fitting in the overhead bin. Based on our experience today, I would fly them again.

One comment we made after getting here is that we like the bike system here better than in Berlin. There are rules here. Bikes on the bike paths, not on the sidewalks. Cars yield to bikes and bikes yield to pedestrians in crosswalks. In Berlin, the bikes were everywhere, on the road, on the bike paths and on the sidewalk. They would zoom by us very closely and scare us most of the time. It is more organized here and predictable.

Speaking of bikes. I am glad to say that our bike bags, complete with bikes inside and a jar of peanut butter, and one suitcase we left in the luggage room at the hotel, were still here and intact.

We shop this afternoon!  Danish design is fantastic and I love looking at the kitchen stuff – streamlined, bright colours, elegant. I always like to pick up a scarf or earrings for myself on our trips, but I cannot find anything that says to me “I must come home with you!”

We have tomorrow in Copenhagen also so we will take in a couple of sites we missed when we were here two weeks ago. And maybe I will find a treasure to bring back as my own.

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Imposing Architecture

We walk from our hotel this morning towards Potsdamer Platz. It is cold outside, chilly enough that I wish I had gloves on.

Berlin

As we walk and gaze up at the surrounding buildings, I realize that most of the buildings are massive. Massive and heavy looking. Massive and imposing. Can a building be massive and airy?

I think that maybe it is just those buildings around Potsdamer Platz and we will see some light airy structures further in our walk, but we don’t. The Reichstag (German Parliament) is even more imposing, but I guess if one building should be that way, it should be the main government building, to show strength and toughness and grit and a “Don’t mess with us” attitude.

Reichstag, Berlin

Reichstag, Berlin

Further along, we pass by the Opera. Tall, set up high, still imposing, but coral coloured. At least it is trying to be light and airy!

The Opera, Berlin

The Opera

The Berlin Dom is our next stop. Again…..huge. It warrants an inside view of the dome as I do not think I have seen a dome this large before, so we pay the 7 Euro and head in.

Berlin Cathedral

Berlin Cathedral

As I sit in a pew and gaze up and around. Gold glints off the ceiling, frescoes abound, the stained glass is brilliant. But I feel very tiny sitting there. God and the church are these huge things, and the populace are these itty bitty tiny things? mmmmmm.

Berlin Cathedral

Berlin Cathedral

After a quick lunch of Bratwurst on a bun, we go for a walk down Karl Marx Strasse. It is an eight lane roadway, bordered on both sides by trees and tall buildings. The sense of scale, again, is massive. What I feel is missing is the volume of traffic, both vehicular and human, that the roadway can accommodate.  It feels very empty for the grandiosness. I think of the Champs Elysees in Paris and it is grand, and full of traffic and shops and people. This is not.

Building on Karl Marx Strasse

Building on Karl Marx Strasse

I think this is the one impression I will be taking back with me about Berlin, imposing architecture that wasn’t totally comfortable for me.

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Berlin Day Two

It’s 4:15 pm and raining in Berlin. I bail on Murray and come back to the hotel, while he walks in the rain to see the Bauhaus Archive building and a couple of other buildings. Too wet for me.

Berlin

The day starts cool but dry, a good walking temp. We walk over the canal by our hotel and then to Checkpoint Charlie. If you need to locate tourists, go there. We don’t stay long, just long enough to look at a few info boards with photos from the days of the wall, snap a few pics and we are out of there.

Checkpoint Charlie

Checkpoint Charlie

I find it rather ironic that the sign in the back of the photo of Checkpoint Charlie is, of course, McDonalds.

There are two places to view sections of the wall. We stroll by the first one where there is a display and a museum which talk about the wall.

The Wall

Our next stop is the AEG building that Peter Behrens, Gropius’ mentor before the Bauhaus started, designed. It was initially a factory and it is imposing, massive and amazing. Two, or more, story high windows. I feel very small and insignificant standing next to it.

Peter Behrens designed building

Peter Behrens designed building

We walk past the other section of THE wall and this one has displays about all the people who were shot trying to cross the wall. This part of the wall was built through a cememtary, requiring many graves to be relocated. It is a somber sight.

The Wall

The western Wall through the eastern Wall across no man’s land

Our art fix for the day is visiting the Berggruen Museum, which houses modern artworks by Picasso, Klee, Matisse and Giacometti. I love the tall thin figures of Giacometti’s sculptures and the colours used by Klee.

It is way past lunch so we stop in at Charlotte restaurant where Murray has Curryworst and fries and I have Weiner Schnitzel and fries. Curryworst is a large sausage with BBQ sauce poured over top and curry powder sprinkled on. The food is just what we needed.

Oh, a knock on the door…Murray is back already! I will pass the post to Murray now to finish off.

Bauhaus Archive

Bauhaus Archive

Few more Germany/Berlin thoughts. There are no speed limits on the autobahn. It is amazing how the cars fly along the highway. There is a big difference between Alberta and Germany that makes this possible. The roads are in fantastic shape. There are virtually no potholes even on the city streets, no bumpity bumps, no ridges caused by freeze thaw or temperature changes, nothing, the roads are smooth. Our road crews  should come take lessons from the Germans.

We thought we might have trouble using a credit card in rural Denmark so we brought a bit of extra cash with us. Traveled though the entire country and had so much cash left we lived most of our Copenhagen stint with Krone. Then we get to Germany, figure we should have no trouble using a credit card here. But, even in Berlin, the world class metropolis, most of the food establishments we have eaten in  take cash only, no cards, go figure.

Germany shuts down on Sunday. But we are in Berlin, city of the world, yes. No, this place is shut tighter than a drum. Half the restaurants are open, the museums and galleries are open but grocery stores, nope, malls, nope, corner stores, nope. Sunday is a day of rest here.

After saying we were having trouble finding people that speak English in Germany we hit Berlin. Folks from all over the world live here, people need to communicate with each other and English is the chosen language. Here it is unusual to meet someone that does not speak English.

Monday is gallery closing day so tomorrow is a day of sights.

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