Attack of the Killer TURTLE!

A long time ago, when we were scuba diving in Grand Turk, a great dive master told me that when I encounter turtles, as long as I stayed at the turtle’s level or below, the turtle will not see me as a threat. I have been living by this rule since then and have had many wonderful turtle experiences. The turtle would swim along leisurely with me finning to stay beside him, shooting photos, the turtle unconcerned with my presence.

Today we encounter a turtle and I once again put this rule into play. Only today the turtle does not cooperate. We first spot him swimming towards our group of five divers in an unhurried fashion. He doesn’t look threatened that we are there, just keeps swimming toward us.

Kona Turtle

As he gets closer, I deploy my rule and make sure I am below him and start taking photos. I take one last photo when he is quite near me and perhaps he didn’t like my camera light. For reasons unknown to us the turtle went into attack mode.

Kona Turtle

Murray was taking a video of the action……

The diver with the yellow cap is Hailey, the dive master. After this video ends, it took Hailey some time to coax the turtle away, even after I swam off, and he went after two of the other divers!

I feel bad about this and have watched the video a number of times and realize what I should have done differently. It is hard to see in the video but the surge was tossing both the turtle and me around making everything harder. Lesson learned……the rule works but err on the cautious side and give turtles a wider berth next time.

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Creature of the Day – Wire Coral Shrimp

Wire Coral Shrimp are very tiny and are found on wire coral. Wire coral is a type of black coral and are covered in polyps. The tiny shrimp blend in with the coral they are sitting on, which makes them very difficult to spot and then photograph.

Wire Coral Shrimp
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Creature of the Day – Golden Lace Nudibranch

Nudibranchs are basically sea slugs. Not a glamorous thought, but boy are some nudibranchs beautiful. The Golden Lace is extraordinary, with the fine golden lines of highlighting and the black and white spotted gills and rhinophores. They look to be dressed up for a gala. The Golden Lace is only found in the waters off Hawaii.

Golden Lace Nudibranches
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Creature of the Day – Crab

Crab

We peak in holes, crevices and inside coral heads to find crabs. Crabs come in all sizes and colours, although mostly orange. Their eyes are intriguing and seem to stare right at me as I click a photo.

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Hello Kona

We arrived late at night. We have learned, don’t dive the next day! Hanging about on day 1 we orient ourselves by driving around a bit. We see if we can remember what roads lead where. A visit to the dive shop is in order. We need to get our schedule, confirm meeting times and drop off our dive gear so it can be set up on the boat the next morning. Groceries also loom large. We need breakfast food and some snacks for after diving.

Up early on day 2 and on the trip out of the harbour we pass a huge school of dolphins looking to play on the bow wave. This auspicious beginning bodes well for the up coming couple of weeks of diving.

We get to the first dive site. I stride in from the gate on the side of the boat and the cold water rushes into my wetsuit. Oh man, a couple of Fahrenheit degrees makes a big difference. 81F in Bonaire and 78F here, yikes.

This day a hammerhead shark was spotted, not seen be me but I gotta believe. They don’t usually hang around this long into the fall but there seems to be one in particular that likes this place. There was also a sand bar shark circling as well, a very large fellow that passed by a couple of times.

Manta Ray
Gabby, the Manta Ray

Diving day two we head north of the harbour again. The site is Wash Rock and our mission is to spot a manta. On cue, Gabby, one of the local mantas is cruising the top of the drop off looking for breakfast. She swims a bit, then circles back, swims a bit more and circles once again. Every time she circles back she comes within a few feet of us. It is amazing to see one of these giants up that close. We followed Gabby for about 1/2 an hour. She is graceful as anything and moves about in the water with the adeptness of something half her size.

It’s been a few years since we have been here and we had forgotten how good the diving is. It is unique. There are different fish than we see in the Caribbean and the coral is not as plentiful as say the South Pacific, but there are a lot of fish and oh so colourful. There is also a goodly number of unusual swimmers like the ones already mention to check out as well.

Spotted Eagle Rays
Spotted Eagle Rays

What else is new around here? The main highway from north of the airport into town, which was a construction mess when we were here last, is now completed and pan flat smooth. So nice in fact the speed limit seems to be a suggestion rather than an absolute. The crowds are down. Even though travel from mainland USA is easy there is not as many people here as there has been on previous trips. There is a lot of empty retail space. I think the pandemic probably separated the wheat from the chaff. There are some new businesses but there is still a lot of empty storefronts.

Today is a rest day but tomorrow we are back on the boat. It’s good to be back in paradise and really good to be underwater.

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Fish of the Day – Boxfish

One of my favourite fish is a boxfish. The one in the photo is a Spotted Boxfish.

Box fish

The males are blue sided with white and gold tops and the females are black with white dots all over. They have a boxlike cross section, thus the name! We are always exited to see a Boxfish as they move like a helicopter – forward, backward, up, down and rotate.

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Fish of the Day – Leaf Scorpion

If you ever see what looks like a dead leaf in a coral head, it is most likely a Leaf Scorpionfish. They grow up to about four inches (10 cm) long and wave gently in the water, looking very much like a leaf.

Leaf Scorpion

Wikipedia tells me that they are ambush predators. They wait until a tiny shrimp or fish gets close to them, they sidle a little closer and then snap the prey into their open mouth. Yum!

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Fish of the Day – Dragon Moray

I had forgotten how many eels there are here and one of the coolest eels to find in the waters off Kona is the Dragon Moray. It is also called the Leopard Moray Eel and is found all throughout the Indo-Pacific region.

These eels like hiding in rocky areas and corals which makes them very hard to spot. But once found, they are a magnificent sight.

Dragon Moray
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On Our Way to the Ocean

Murray and I are sitting in the Seattle Airport waiting for our flight to the Big Island, Kona, Hawai’i. I feel so relieved now. This trip was causing me more anxiety than our trip to Bonaire. Same testing and paperwork involved, but this time it felt more intense. So, why am I relieved? This is why…….

My very own Hawai’i pre-clearance wristband!

Hawai’i requires visitors to log into a website called Safe Travels Hawai’i to fill in information about our trip, vaccinations, negative COVID test and fill out a health questionnaire. I filled out everything with ease until I got to the health questionnaire, where there seemed to be only four questions and the “Next” button didn’t do anything and so I “Completed” the questionnaire and created the QR Code. I might add that at no time did the website ever say, “You have not answered the other 64 questions of the health questionnaire.” Anyway, I slept very poorly over all this the night before our flights and have worried the whole time that I messed up. Sounds like Debbie, doesn’t it!

Once in the Seattle Airport, I noticed an area where we can pre clear the Hawai’i restrictions to quarantine (and I had read about this pre clearing on some website) and there was no line up, so we scooted over there and within about four and a half minutes we had been pre cleared and given our wristbands. I didn’t mess up at all! Such a relief to have that colourful band around my arm!

We still have a few hours to wait for our flight to Kona. Tonight we sleep by the ocean!

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Our Bonaire Dive Trip

Murray and I came to Bonaire hoping to make up for lost dives in the 19 months of pandemic isolation. We have dived and dived while here and as much as I think I am over dived right now, I am thinking about where we should go for our next trip. Yeah, I’m hooked. Here are some crazy stats to sum up Bonaire.

Number of dives – 2 boat dives, 67 shore dives to total 69 dives each

Average length of dive – approx 71 minutes

Shortest dive – 16 minutes, aborted dive due to water in camera housing

Longest dive – 85 minutes, last dive-didn’t want to get out

Hours spent under water – approx 3.5 hours per day, approx 81 hours over the 4 weeks

Number of wipeouts in the surf or on the beach with dive gear on – Debbie 6, Murray 5

Number of robots encountered under water – 1 (Hayward) in the swimming pool

Number of dive days and number of rest days – 24 dive days and 3 rest days

Number of photos taken by Debbie – approx 1,270

Number of videos taken by Murray – approx 370

Best place to stay – Coral Paradise Resort

Best truck rental and dive shop combination – AB Car Rental and AB Dive

Best sushi restaurant – Panino

Best ice cream – GIO’s

Most dives at one dive site – Salt Pier 3, Something Special 3 and Oil Slick Leap 3

First time diving at a dive site – Tolo, Jeff Davis, My Place, Vista Blue, Soft Coral Garden, Fish Hut and Yellow Submarine

Some of those statistics are mind boggling. We spent the equivalent of two 40 hour work weeks under water! We are turning into fish! This is our fourth trip to Bonaire and we still managed to dive sites we have not dived before. The dive sites we did multiple times have something drawing us back each time.

Sharptail Eel
Sharptail Eel

If you are thinking of going to Bonaire, stay at the Coral Paradise Resort. Carolyn and Vincent (Canadians) are great hosts and run a small eight unit resort. They are tied in with AB Dive and AB Car Rental so a truck rental is easy and tanks are delivered right to the resort. Each unit has a kitchen so breakfast and lunches can be made, which we did most days. Some days we cooked in, but most days we ate out. It can’t get any better than that! Check them out!

So, this was our dive trip to Bonaire in a snap shot.

Frog Fish
Frog Fish
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