Winter in the Rocky Mountains

We arrive at our destination and it is dark.  When we wake up, the sky starts to lighten and it feels like we have been reborn.  Reborn in the Rocky Mountains.  Florescent white mountains peaks are etched into the blue bird (as the locals call it).

Murray heads out with J to back-country ski, but I will let him tell that story.  The mild temperatures have made the ski conditions in both Canmore and Banff only “fair”, the Lake Louise conditions are “good”, so I head to its higher elevation to cross country ski.

The Great Divide in the Rocky Mountains

I ski the Great Divide Trail.  It is a 14 km out and back to the Alberta-British Columbia border.  The Great Divide is the point where water flows east to the Hudson Bay and west to the Pacific Ocean.

The Great Divide

There are other skiers out today, so I am not totally alone. The trail has slight rolling hills, but is basically flat.  An easy ski. I stop frequently to look at the trees iced with blobs of snow, critter tracks, a couple of nuthatches and the majestic mountains.  The snow on the cuts by the trail is so smooth it looks like fondant waiting for pink roses, green leaves and a bride and groom.

I am wearing my newest purchase.  X-Bionic Energy Accumulator EVO base layer, top and bottom.  It is designed to keep warm the parts that need warmth and to cool parts that need cooling. This is the first time that I finish a ski not soaking wet. Check out their website at http://www.x-bionic.com .

It is a perfect day to be outside and the ski exhilarates me.

As Debbie mentioned, the day is perfect. We head to an uptrack close to Observation Peak. We arrive at our start point and if there was a track, it is snowed in and we have to set our own. The penetration is not deep, about 15 cm, and the travel is easy. The temperature is just below 0 C and we start out with minimum winter clothing. Can’t believe how good it is.

We use a different route than the last time we were here and depart from the creek bottom quickly. Our route leads us past some extremely enticing glades. We bypass these glades in hopes of finding the knolls we skied last year. Arriving at the knolls we decide not to ski there. The snow is thin snow pack on a slippery layer that is outlined on avalanche.ca as being prone to slide, we move across the valley and ski what we thought was safer.

The run down is the reason I walk up and today’s skiing is as good as it can be. Thirty cm of soft snow on at least a meter of snow pack. We float down the hill, it feels like we are moving on silk. 560 m (according to the Garmin) of glorious skiing. It is good, so good that 4 of the 6 of us are going back tomorrow.

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The Packing Disaster Zone

Murray and I started to pull out “stuff” the other day and now our living room looks like a disaster zone. We have a Murray pile, a Debbie pile and a “to be looked at” pile.

Utila Packing Piles

Once again, I realized why we do this early. I started to go through the “to be looked at” pile and realized we need dive log pages.  We also need to test the batteries for our dive lights and hook up the strobe flash, camera and housing to make sure it all works properly. These chores take time and I dislike doing these in a hurry or a panic, as would happen if this was one of two days before we were leaving. We have time now.

Utila has sand flies. The Deep Blue (where we are staying) website says to bring a 20% DEET repellent.  We had encountered sand flies in Bonaire and we got eaten alive because we did not have any repellent. My legs looked like I had a bad case of the measles or chickenpox. This time, I am going to use it even though I do not like it.  Today I found some insect repellent wipes made by Ben’s.  Great for carry on travelers! The box contains 12 individually wrapped wipes.  Murray has a deep-seeded hatred of all things DEET as it melted his plastic casing on his camera many many years ago. Things haven’t changed much as shown by this statement listed under the Precautions on the box: May damage furniture finishes, plastic, painted surfaces, synthetic fabrics or leather. Guess I will only use these wipes if I really have to.

Ben's Insect Repellent Wipes iwth 20% DEET

Ben's Insect Repellent Wipes

I stopped at the AMA (Alberta Motor Association) today and picked up a map of Houston. It won’t hurt to have a real map with us as we will be exploring the city for part of a day.

Over the next few days, I am going to tackle my clothes (Murray has pulled out his already!) and the first aid kit. That should have us looking pretty good for this far out from leaving. The disaster zone will only get worse before it disappears all together.

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Utila – Starting to Pack

As we were brushing our teeth this morning, I mentioned to Murray that we should start our packing process this weekend.  It is only three weeks until we leave.  We may be going to the mountains next weekend, so I figure we should get at it. Laying out stuff also helps to build excitement for the trip.

Are we excited yet?

I printed off our famous packing lists – Clothing, Important Documents, First Aid, Other Stuff, Scuba Diving and Toiletries. As I have mentioned before, all our lists are pasted onto one sheet with four columns. I also printed off the Before Leaving List and a new list I created last year called House Check.

The House Check list is some notes to be left in the kitchen reminding the person who checks our place what to do.  Items such as take in the mail, water the plants, check basement for water, shovel the snow. I also added two headings called “Date” and “Condition” where I asked the house checker to jot down the date and state of the house.  This is strictly for insurance purposes in case anything were to happen as we would have proof that the house was being checked regularly.  I don’t know for sure whether this is required, but I think it is a good idea.  CYA.  The list is now posted under the Packing List Menu item and is called House Check.

The first thing I did once the lists were printed was to cross off the obvious items that we will not need.  Bike Cable Lock, Toilet Paper, Toque/Gloves, Long Underwear, Entry Visa, Vaccination Certificates. Murray and I will do this again together, but I thought I would jump on it.

That is where we stand now and will continue with the packing tomorrow. See you then!

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Tourists are Targets

Tourists are targets. You can be a mark for savvy salesmen selling ‘authentic’ goods, you can fall prey to hucksters and hustlers that pose as ‘official’ guides, you can have your pocket or purse picked in a crowded market, or you can have a corrupt border guard request a little baksheesh to be paid in return for a stamp in your passport.

We do not buy too much on our trips so the savvy salesman is not someone that impacts us greatly. The best way to avoid getting taken when you are making a purchase in a foreign land is to research what you intend to buy before you leave. If I was traveling to Hong Kong, a place known for its shopping, and intended to purchase electronics or any other high tech gear I would know the price I would pay in Canada before I left. I could then at least feel comfortable with the price I was offered in the  foreign land before I made a purchase.

The second part of the equation is a little more difficult. Is the item you are looking at an authentic name brand piece or is it a knock off? This may not matter if the quality of the knock off is good but in all likelihood an imitation will be of inferior quality. I really don’t know how one is suppose to tell except to say, that if the deal is too good to be true, it probably is. You don’t buy a Canon 7D DSLR camera for $200, I don’t care what country you’re in. There is also the moral aspect of the equation. Do you buy a knock off at all? Personally I would be happier with an original, but in the end it is your choice.

In our travels I can recall hiring a guide that approached us to offer his services, only twice. Both times when we were first accosted, we initially begged off and walked away. After some time and some discussion we returned to the “guide” and discussed the service being offered and the price that was being asked. It was only after this ‘cooling off’ period and a calm chat that we decided to pursue those particular tours. Both times we were happy with the services rendered. Most times we will not pay any attention to the touts that approach us. If they are persistent I will tell them in a somewhat polite manner that we are not interested, if that doesn’t work I get down right impolite. Sooner or later they will give up.

I’m also a little pig headed about having to pay an ‘entry fee’ into a country when I have already spent money to get the proper visa and permit long before I set foot at the border station. When we are getting set to go somewhere, we do enormous amounts of research and we know if there are any official fees to be paid upon entry or exit from the countries to which we are headed.

Several years ago, Debbie, our two kids and I were at a land crossing from Belize to Guatemala. The immigration officer had decided to charge us a bogus stamping fee or some such. I had done my reading and knew this might happen. I refused, partly feigning to not comprehend what he was asking for and partly saying we will not pay money. There was a fellow with a machine gun standing off to the side but he didn’t seem too agitated and I stood my ground. After a minute or two the line behind us was getting backed up and the border guard threw our passports across the table and we were allowed access to Guatemala san entry fee. This attitude is how things work in the non western world and as tourists we should respect the ways of our hosts but those hosts have to realize that we tourists have our moral limits as well and they should accept some of our strange ways. Paying for little or no service, bribery, is not something that most westerners have ever encountered and I personally do not want to partake.

No matter how hard one tries to dress, act, and/or otherwise fit in, most travelers have ‘TOURIST” written all over them. It is pretty hard to blend in when your skin color is different than the general populace but even when that is not an issue, tourists stick out. Maybe it is the camera, maybe the map in their hand, or maybe it is just that they are far more interested in the surroundings than a local might be. This being the case, tourists are easy marks for petty thieves and pickpockets. There are a few things one can do to  minimize the risk of being accosted. Don’t advertise. Try to be subtle in your dress and manner. Don’t wear flashy jewellery or other ‘bling’. If you can possibly do it, look poor. What would be the use in trying to lift a poor person’s wallet when the guy next to them glitters like a star on a clear night. Don’t flash your fancy camera. That does not mean don’t carry it but keep it concealed or at least tight to your body so it is harder to nab.

Always be wary of your surroundings. I was on the tram heading to Athens from Piraeus, it was crowded and a good place for a pickpocket to hang out. I had my luggage on my back so I was quite visibly a tourist. My wallet was in my front pocket that was secured with Velcro. For some reason I holding a chrome post with one hand and I had the other hand placed so my thumb was resting on the top on my wallet. Suddenly I felt the wallet moving up. I looked beside me and there was a lady with a coat draped over her arm and hand standing just a little too close. She had already undid the Velcro without me noticing but luck was on my side and she did not get my wallet. I did get a piercing look when we got off the train.

Sometimes you have to rely on your “spidey sense.” I was walking alone on a street in Dublin, of course I had a map in my hand (a rookie traveler mistake). I was aware of a conversation going on behind me. I was walking quite fast and although I was not consciously thinking about why the conversation was taking place too close to my back, I somehow knew it. Again subconsciously, I suddenly realized the talking had stopped. I don’t know exactly why but without slowing down I stepped sideways into a vestibule, and quickly turned. There was a guy with his hand in mid air posed to get into my rucksack. I shouted very loud so that the entire street could hear to “get the #$&@% away from me.” Not wanting to attract too much attention, he beat a hasty retreat. I had to rely on a sixth sense but none the less I was able to avoid loosing my camera or whatever else he might have been able to pilfer.

I now carry a phony wallet and only enough loose cash in another pocket to last the day. The phony wallet contains a couple of local club cards (like my Safeway card), a couple of credit cards that come as advertising with “your name” in the name slot, and a few worthless bills from previous trips. The wallet is fat enough to be noticeable and if a pickpocket so desires they can have it. There is a pretty good chance I would let it go, it would make the day for both of us.

Most places in the world are no more dangerous than your hometown. The percentage of dishonest people is probably no higher than what you would encounter at home but with the cultural differences and your giddy holiday demeanor it is more difficult to spot the anomalies that would make you suspicious in more familiar surroundings. You have to observe what is going on about you very carefully and unfortunately be somewhat cynical. Every once in a while you will get taken. Just remember that it is all part of the game. We travel to learn and part of learning is making mistakes. So laugh it off and remember the scam so you will recognize it the next time you cross paths.

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Air Travel Exercises

Sitting in an airplane for hours on end can be very cramped. Muscles start to tighten up, feet may go to sleep and other muscles may start to get sore.

Quite a few years ago, we were flying Lufthansa to Europe and mid-flight, a short video was shown of exercises that everyone should do.  The video took us through the exercises, and as Murray and I were faithfully following the video, I looked around to find that we were the only passengers in our area with our arms in the air.  The stretches felt great and relieved that cramped up feeling.

The best way to alleviate this cramped and sore feeling is to do some air travel exercises on the airplane and to get up out of the seat once every hour.

The exercises are for four regions: neck, shoulders, trunk and legs.

Neck

  • Chin Tuck – Keep head level, press chin to chest forming a double chin
  • Head Tilt – Lower shoulders, lower ear to shoulder without turning head. Do both sides.

Shoulders

  • Shoulder Blade Squeeze – Squeeze shoulder blades together while breathing in and expanding rib cage.
  • Shoulder Rolls – Circle one shoulder up back down and forward and then circle the other.
  • Shoulder Stretch – Link fingers together, lift arms above head and push up with palms up.

Trunk

  • Back Arch – Arch back until pelvis is titled forward and breathe normally.
  • Body Twist – Turn body and head to the right, hold onto to right arm of chair with left hand. Do both directions.
  • Knee to Chest – Bend forward, clasp hands around left knee and hug to chest to stretch thigh and butt.  Do both legs.

Legs

  • Calf Stretch – With left heel on floor, lift toes off floor. Do both calves.
  • Heels Lifts – Lean forward and rest elbows on knees. Lift heels off floor keeping balls of feet on floor. Gently lower. Do both legs.
  • Ankle Circles – Lift feet off floor and rotate feet in circles. Do both directions.

Standing Stretches  (Do these exercises where you can steady yourself on a seat back or corner.)

  • Thigh Stretch – Support yourself on a seat back with your right hand.  Grab your left foot and pull it towards your butt for a gentle stretch. Do both legs.
  • Body Stretch – Stand with feet shoulder width apart. Push hips forward slightly and reach arms above head with palms up. Stretch.

The previous exercises were taken from an Edmonton Journal newspaper article and an Outpost magazine article (May/June 2003) that we had in our travel file.  There are a number of websites that have pictures and descriptions of how to do these basic exercises. Just google “air travel exercises” and have fun looking at the various pictures and videos!

Next time you are on a long haul flight, take the time to stretch.  You will feel much better and your body with thank you for it.

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Hypothermia

Murray tried to go skiing at Sunshine Village on Monday and it was so cold that they were not letting people onto the hill.  He went to Mount Norquay instead and skied for a couple of hours.  It was very cold (-25 C) outside and by the time he stopped skiing and got his boots off, he was quite chilled.

When he got to Canmore, he changed into some warm clothes, had a cold drink as he was thirsty and then climbed into bed to get warm.  A couple of hours later, after a long snooze, he got up but was still cold.

We are now wondering whether he had a mild case of hypothermia.  I checked my favorite medical website ( http://www.mayoclinic.com ) to see what it said about hypothermia.  The symptoms of moderate to severe hypothermia, as listed on the Mayo Clinic website are:

  • Shivering
  • Clumsiness or lack of coordination
  • Slurred speech or mumbling
  • Stumbling
  • Confusion or difficulty thinking
  • Poor decision making, such as trying to remove warm clothes
  • Drowsiness or very low energy
  • Apathy or lack of concern about one’s condition
  • Progressive loss of consciousness
  • Weak pulse
  • Slow, shallow breathing

The website also lists the following as symptoms of mild hypothermia:

  • Shivering
  • Faster breathing
  • Trouble speaking
  • Confusion
  • Lack of coordination
  • Fatigue
  • Increased heart rate
  • High blood pressure

After reading the list for mild hypothermia, the only symptom I know he had was the fatigue. So, I am not sure if in fact he had hypothermia, but if this happens again I will be cautious and treat it as mild hypothermia.  To warm someone up use warm clothes, blankets, a toque to cover the head, hot drinks, some snuggling to share body heat and be sure to monitor his/her condition.

Anyone participating in winter outdoor activities should be aware of the symptoms of hypothermia and how to treat them. Even summer activities – I have a friend that had hypothermia from swimming in lake with a wetsuit on for too long.

Prevention of hypothermia is done through proper clothing for the temperature and wind.  Use layers and try not to over dress as this will cause excess sweating and staying dry is key.  If you sweat during the activity, be sure to have warm dry clothes to change into right away and have a hot drink in a thermos waiting for you.

As we are not experts, please review the many websites that discuss hypothermia and its symptoms, treatments and preventions.  I know I will pay attention in the future now that I know more.

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Moraine Lake Road

We find ourselves in Canmore this weekend.  Let me explain.

Months ago, we heard that one of our favorite artists, Laurie Anderson, would be playing in Calgary as part of the High Performance Rodeo ( https://www.hprodeo.ca ), an international arts festival. We checked the schedule and purchased tickets for Saturday night. Since we were driving to Calgary, we decided to spend a few days skiing in the mountains.

As we were getting ready to get in the vehicle and drive, Murray said, “How is it we can travel half way around the globe with a carry on suitcase, but we fill a vehicle for a few days in the mountains?!”

Packed and ready to go!

A quick count: 7 pairs of skis, 8 pairs of boots (not counting the ones we were wearing!), 6 pairs of poles, 8 pairs of eyewear, 7 bags, 3 knapsacks and 1 cooler.  All for 3 nights and 3 days of skiing.

We drove down to Calgary on Saturday, had supper, enjoyed Laurie Anderson’s concert, and then drove to Canmore.

Yesterday, we drove to Lake Louise to cross country ski the Moraine Lake Road.  We had not skied this track before so thought we should give it a go.

Cascade Mountain, outside Banff

The mountains, between Banff and Lake Louise, were incredible.  The features – crags, fissures, faces – are all so much more noticeable dusted with snow.

Castle Mountain

We arrived at the parking lot, gathered our ski gear and headed out. We noticed very quickly that the road heads up and up and up. With hardly a break in the climb, we skied up towards the lake.

Heading toward Moraine Lake

The tracks felt slow, perhaps from the dusting of snow, the cold, the grade or maybe from the fact that this was our first ski of the year. It was beautiful out there.  When we stopped for a break, the only sound was our breathing and the creak of ski poles on the snow. If we held our breath, silence.

We turned around at about the 5 km mark and headed down. We had had enough for our first ski. The trip down was fast and suddenly we were at the car shedding our gear.

Mount Rundle

It was a great first ski and, if the weather cooperates, we hope to go out again before we leave Canmore.

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Trip Research. Step 1

Yesterday I started bookmarking African safari web sites on my computer. Oh man, there are a lot of them. This is not going to be easy. We are going to have to modify the process we use to choose our next destination.

It is not 100% but we are quite sure that an African safari is not something we want to attempt to do on our own. At least not the first one. There are too many unknowns for now. How do you find a hotel on the great plains of the Serengeti? Can you set up a tent anywhere? Do lions or elephants even care about personal space and will they leave you be? What do you do if you find yourself in the middle of a civil war? Are there really bandits in the middle of nowhere? Are there restaurants or street food vendors on the edge of veld where you can sit on the balcony and watch the great migration of the wildebeest? Anyway, you get the idea. The number of variables is great and supposedly the tour companies that specialize in safaris should have most of them figured out.

What we have figured out is that we are going to have narrow down the number of safaris that interest us. A number of the tour operators’ sites offer help on ‘How to Chose the Right Safari for You.’ Each of them has questions and answers to the questions posed. Of course the answers are set to steer you towards their particular services. I compiled a list of questions from the sites (sans answers) and added a few of my own. Debbie and I will attempt to answer the questions and at least narrow the options available.

Questions (in no particular order)

1. When? What year? What time of year?     Considerations: weather, are there events we want to take in, when are the crowded times, when are the animals likely to be seen, is the migration of the wildebeest important?

2. Where? What part of Africa interests us? What country?

3. What do we want to see? Are animals the main focus? Does the landscape enter into the equation?

4. Dangers? political instability, bandits, disease.

5. What type of safari? guided, walking, self drive, river, horseback, fly-in, mobile, primate, balloon, or any combination of the above.

6. What standard of accommodation? luxury hotel type, luxury tents, camping, fixed location, mobile.

7. Visit National Parks or Private Game Reserves?

8. Size of the group?

9. How much time do we want to dedicate?

10. Do we want to follow a set itinerary, a totally customized trip or a hybrid?

Two of our friends are also researching travel destinations and it may be the four of us that strike out on this African sojourn. It would be fun to have some company, but they are also just in the very preliminary stages of their planning next trip so we will see how things pan out.

Pondering these questions will take some time. In the interim I will try to cull a few of the bookmarked sites and earmark them for a closer look. I of course will not stop adding new ones. There is oh so much information out there.

 

 

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The Process Begins Anew

We have just about exhausted all the tasks related to our Bhutan/India trip. We have debriefed with the idea of changes for our next trip, worked on all the photos and organized them into a couple of versions of slide shows for different audiences, we’ve put all our treasures into an album that chronicles our trip, and we have shown our slides to all those that we could convince to come to our house to watch. We still have to mount a few photos that we will keep around the house to help the trip live on, but it is  about time to start planning our next trip.

Both of us have been mulling over what we should do this year as far as travel goes. It may be that we concentrate on some much needed house renos and only do a dive trip this year. But, we could maybe go to Europe to ride or maybe we could join some friends traveling to SE Asia and dive in Sipidan or maybe we just throw caution to the wind and head to South America and visit Machu Picchu. This crazy diversity of ideas is how our minds work when we are looking for somewhere to go.

Then, the other night and we posed the question “If we had one more trip to do, where would it be?” My answer was Zanzibar, Debbie said that she would go on a safari. That pretty much decided our next destination. Africa. Things are never sealed until we have put a considerable amount of money on the line but Africa looks like it might just fit our timeline and it would knock another continent off the bucket list.

There are music festivals in Mali and Zanzibar in January and February. Both of these festivals are on our list of things to see so it might be worth our while to work our trip around these festivals. We don’t know what the weather is like at that time of the year and we don’t know what the safari possibilities are but these are things that we will research in the next while.

I was on the internet a couple of days ago and bookmarked a lot of sites that offered information on Zanzibar and The Festival in the Desert in Mali and a whole lot of sites that outlined how to choose a safari that will suit.

Yesterday we cornered one of our friends who is very well traveled and had been on a safari. We grilled her about where she went and how she traveled. She gave us some ideas and now we have a place to start our investigation. I’m sure as our research progresses we will bother her again with more specific questions.

And so it begins again, this trip will last over a year by the time it is complete and even though if you look at the dollars invested you might think that travel is expensive if you include all the time we spend dreaming and researching the cost per hour is very small.

Yahoo! Here we go again.

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Christmas Presents

After our trips to Bonaire, India and Bhutan this year, Murray and I talked about changing and adding to some of our gear.  Lo and behold, Santa overheard us and some really cool items appeared under the tree!

MSR Travel Towel

We have been carrying one old bath towel with us on all our trips. This is a “just in case we need a towel” item. Although the towel is old and a bit threadbare, it is still bulky and weighs more than it should. We had talked about getting “travel towels” made of microfiber material.  M&G kindly purchased just the ones that we would have gotten! They are made by MSR and are a polyester/nylon microfiber blend and are very soft.  Some of the other brands we looked at were rough on the skin. We have the “Large” size which measures 16.5″ x 36″ (42 cm x 92 cm) and weighs 4 oz (115 gms).  This towel is definitely lighter and more compact than the towel we have been taking! The towel is big enough to dry a body with but it wouldn’t be big enough to lay on while on the beach. It is big enough to sit on though. It comes with a carry case too. I can see us taking these towels to destinations like India, Africa etc where towels may not be provided in hotels.

Seal Line 10L Dry Bag

When we were in Bonaire, our hats and Murray’s shirt got soaked on the dive boat and it took days for my hat to dry and come to life again. When we were in the Andaman Islands, we had to use a green garbage bag to protect our day pack from getting totally soaked on the dive boat.  Our dive master and our dive buddies from Australia both had dry bags. I thought to myself at the time that one of these would have been very handy. Luckily we received a Campers Village gift card for Christmas so we purchased a 10 litre bag (weighs 7 oz, 205 gms).  This size will fit a couple of hats, a couple of t-shirts, keys, abit of cash, a snack or two – just enough for diving. It has a handle at the bottom end.  I like the bright orange colour!

 

Sea to Summit Coolmax Adaptor Sleeping Bag Liner

On the trips to China, India and Bhutan we carried home made sleep sacks made from old sheets. They were bulky and weighed more than they should.  Every trip we have used them at least a couple of times when the bed linens were questionable. We decided that our Christmas presents to each other this year would be light weight sleep sacks. Sea to Summit makes a wide variety of sleep sacks – from silk to cotton to blends to coolmax.  We almost bought silk ones as they are very light, but we were concerned about the durability.  Our fears were confirmed when we looked at one that had been returned and put back on the shelf and the fabric along the seams was ripping. A very friendly, travelwise and helpful fellow at Campers Village convinced us that we would not go wrong with coolmax fabric. It weighs more than silk (9.5 oz compared to 6 oz) and it slightly bulkier but we thought we could live with this. They are 7 feet long ( 210 cm) x 31 inches wide (90 cm) and are tapered at the foot. They are sewn right up the side which makes climbing in and out abit cumbersome.

Sea to Summit Coolmax Adaptor Sleeping Bag Liner

Santa was very good to us this year and we will let you know how the new gear works out as we travel this year.  HO HO HO!

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