Buffalo

Cape Buffalo  in Tanzania

Cape Buffalo in Tanzania

These creatures are big suckers. Off in the distance they look like cattle but when the vehicle pulls up within 3M we have a real appreciation as to their size. We are told they can be down right ornery as well. From what is said they are probably the most unpredictable of all of the animals here. We did not test the hypothesis.

They have a comical look to them with their ears pointing downwards and their horns pointing up. Their horns are massive and I would not want to carry those on my head for too long.

African Buffalo in Botswana

African Buffalo in Botswana

Pat, our guide in Botswana, gave us a list of YouTube videos to watch. There is one called “Battle of Kruger”. Give it a watch!

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Animal Butts

We spend time watching animals walk away from us. Some animals are shy, some are tired of us watching them, some are just moving along. We take pictures anyway. Here is some of our butt collection.

12 Afr 11 15 0039blog

Impala Butt

12 Afr 11 13 0018blog
Zebra Butt
12 Afr 11 21 0029blog

Waterbuck Butt

12 Afr 11 21 0122blog

Buffalo Butt

12 Afr 11 22 0063blog

Giraffe Butt

12 Afr 11 23 0099blog

Lion Butt

12 Afr 11 25 0006blog

Saddle-billed Stork Butt

12 Afr 11 27 0057blog

Monkey Butt

12 Afr 11 28 0113blog

Red Lechwe Butt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And my favorite…….

 

Elephant Butt

Elephant Butt

 

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Kitanga and Kanga

Most ladies in Tanzania wear kangas or kitangas. These are large pieces of material that they wrap around themselves as skirts, shifts, shawls and head coverings. The patterns are wild and the colors are stunning. I notice them right away and take immense pleasure in looking for colorfully dressed women.

Kitanga Material

Kitanga Material

A kitanga is about 44 inches wide and about 136 inches long. It is longer than a kanga. It is wrapped around to make a sort of dress or shift and tied. The tag on the one I purchase for about $6 Cdn says it was 100% cotton. The material feels very smooth for cotton. It turns out it isn’t cotton – while ironing a corner of the material it got too hot and melted – I do not think cotton does that! I love it anyway and the green fronds remind me of a plant that we saw in the Serengeti.

Kanga

Kanga

A kanga is about 36 inches wide and about 60 inches long. They are usually bought in pairs and worn in pairs. The pair is called a “doti”. One kanga is for a skirt and the other for a shawl or “tube” top, or even to gift to a friend. Each kanga has a Sawhili saying imprinted on it.

"Wait for the key to heaven"

“Wait for the key to heaven”

I buy a kanga pair in Stonetown from a vendor selling to local women. Murray bargains him down to 4,500 Tsh, which is about $3 Cdn. The “pair” is two imprinted kangas on one piece of material, definitely cotton this time, and some cutting is required to separate them.

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged | Leave a comment

Wildebeest

Wildebeest

Wildebeest

AKA Gnu. They resemble a svelte American Bison. They each sport a beard and are slightly hunched back. Their rear hunches are lower than their shoulders.

Wildebeest are the largest group of the four animals that participate in the semi-annual migration across the Serengeti Plains.  We witness the leading edge of the migration and the herds stretch for kilometers. The migration brings wildebeests, zebras, Thompson Gazelles and elands, and it also brings the flies and the carnivores.

Wildebeest

In conversation with an Australian fellow, he mentioned that the reason the wildebeest exist in such great numbers is because during the times of the colonial animal massacre there could not be found a use for this lowly animal, their meat being tough and their hides not pretty, so they were not killed in the numbers the others were.

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , | Leave a comment

DIY Bookings vs Travel Agent Bookings

Murray had a few rants while we were away, so now it is my turn. I feel I need to say something about “do it yourself” airline bookings vs travel agent airlines bookings. So, here it goes.

When we were in Maun, Botswana, we were checking our emails after being out of WIFI range for 10 days and found out that our flight from Maun to Johannesburg had been cancelled and Air Botswana had put us on another flight 2 1/2 hours later. Unfortunately, that new flight put us into Johannesburg after our connecting flight back to Dar es Salaam departed.

We scurried over to the Air Botswana office, explained the situation to an agent there, handed her the South African Airways flight confirmation to show her that we had flights, and the first thing she said was “We didn’t know you had these flights. If you had booked through a travel agent, the flights would have been linked and we would have known you had a connecting flight.”

She then started to get all caught up with that particular fact and I had to suggest to her that regardless how we booked the flights, the cancellation of our flight is causing us to miss the South African Airways flight and that we needed to fix the problem. I then suggested she reroute us through Gabarone, or somewhere else, to get us to Johannesburg on time. Which she did and it all turned out just fine.

So, the airlines and the web have allowed the populace to book their own flights. Almost every airline in the world has a website to book tickets on. We have booked flights on Indian airlines, Belize airlines, Tanzanian airlines and Botswanan airlines from the confines of our home. They all let us do it!

For those savvy enough to plan and book their own flights, a travel agent is a redundant service. It is also a costly service. During our early African trip planning, we had a discount travel agent give us a quote on our flights. The routing was terrible and the cost was considerably more than we could do it. WHY WOULD WE USE A TRAVEL AGENT??????

Oh, wait a minute! Using a travel agent would link all our flights together so the airline agents would know our connecting flights. As far as I am concerned, that is the ONLY reason to use a travel agent.

So, now it is up to the airlines. If the airlines allow us to book flights all over the world, they should provide a method for us do-it-yourselfers to link the flights together. It could be a simple “Comment” box that gets attached to the “locator number” that ticket agents access. This comment box would allow us to type in information such as “This Air Botswana flight AB YYY connects with South African Airways flight SAA XXX, to Dar es Salaam that departs at 12:30 on the same day.”

The airlines have to move forward and realize that more and more people are planning their own travels and booking their own flights. They have to provide a method to link together flights on different airlines.  Until they do, situations such as the one encountered in Botswana will continue to happen.

Phew!

Posted in Planning and Packing, Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Elephant

Tembo in Sawhili. These giants are gentle beasts. We never tire of watching them. The females’ maternal instincts are evident every time we find a mother and her young one. Our Landcruiser passes between a female and her baby and her agitation shows immediately. Pascal speeds ahead quickly and the mother’s anger abates. Pat says that a mother elephant will mourn the loss of her baby and will return to the spot where the baby died.

It is amazing how much they must eat, disseminating an entire tree for lunch. They break off branches, strip off the majority of the leaves and if they cannot reach the top the will push over the tree so the tasty bits are closer to the ground. Whole sections of bushes and trees are torn apart and we know that an elephant herd, or parade, has passed.

The bull elephants are solitary creatures and roam the plains alone. A bull will join a herd to mate. The others travel in herds that are lead by a matriarch.

The Elephant Graveyard is a myth started by Walt Disney, or someone like that. It does not exist.

One would think that as they moved they would make much noise due to their size, but they have ‘pillows’ on the bottom of their feet and set each foot down gently so you cannot hear the slightest sound when they move. They are very graceful. The tracks the adults leave in the dust are the size of dinner plates or serving platters. HUGE!

Of all the animals we saw in Tanzania and Botswana, the elephant remains my favorite.

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Budget Analysis (Warning: May put you to sleep!)

After paying for our safaris, flights and most of our hotels, we calculate how much cash we need to take with us to Africa.  We create a fairly in-depth cash budget. It is an excel spreadsheet with each day we are away across the top, one column for each day. Down the side, there are groups of categories, as listed below.

Budget Amt

  • Departure Tax                                                                                                           $ 164
  • Hotel                                                                                                                           $ 663
  • Safaris (sub categories for Tips and Extra Safari Costs)                                  $ 465
  • Diving (sub categories for Diving/Equipment and Tips)                                $ 795
  • Transport                                                                                                                  $ 285
  • Meals (sub categories for Breakfast, Lunch, Supper and Snacks/Drinks)  $ 895
  • Entertainment/Fees                                                                                                $ 117
  • Spending Money (sub categories for Presents and Artwork)                         $ 620
  • Miscellaneous                                                                                                           $     0

Grand Total Budgeted                                                                                                $4,004

Under each category, we specify the specific location, for example for hotels, we listed Dar es Salaam, Arusha etc. This budget is strictly a CASH budget – what funds will we need while away. It does not include anything that is prepaid (safaris, hotels, flights). We are taking US cash with us and do not want to take an excess amount in case it got stolen, lost etc.

Murray did his normal research and found out what departure taxes we may have to pay, average meal costs, average tipping requirements etc. We fill in the spreadsheet and total the rows and columns and the grand total budgeted is $4,000. We feel this sounds reasonable so we take this amount in cash. We also, as insurance against theft, take $1,000 US in traveler’s cheques. We expect to use these only in an emergency. (We both also have credit cards.) We had read that credit cards were not widely accepted, and this turns out to be very true.

While traveling, we keep track of what we actually spend. I had copied the budget into another worksheet and we use the same format for the “actuals”. It works quite well. Here are some comments about what we budgeted compared to what we actually spent.

Departure Taxes – We only paid $10 departure taxes in one airport, so we were under-budget by $154.

Hotels – We spent $686 ($23 over-budget), which was due to the extra hotel costs in Gabarone that we were not expecting. This was due to having our flight in Maun canceled and getting re routed through Gabarone.

Safaris – We budgeted $465, made up of $420 for Tips and $45 for Extra Costs. We actually spent $550 on Tips and $0 on Extra Costs, making us $85 over budget. We had budgeted for tips for the safari guides and camp staff, but did not budget for tips for staff in the hotels/lodges where we stayed. It seems to be the norm to leave a tip in the “tip box” for staff, so we did this. We also tipped the 3 fellows who were our camp staff in Botswana a little extra as we were the only clients on the safari out of a potential 9 client safari. These two items caused us to go over-budget.

Diving – We budgeted $795 and spent $785. Not bad! $10 under-budget.

Transport – We budgeted $285 and spent $144 ($141 under-budget). This is what bargaining can do. The guide books etc give a pretty conservative amount which can always be bargained down. We also budgeted to take a taxi for every trip to/from the hotel in Dar es Salaam and ended up walking twice and getting a free ride once.

Meals – Meals are always hard to budget for. Murray looks in Lonely Planet and makes his best guess as to prices. We used three pricing ranges, one for Tanzania and Botswana mainland (B $10, L $10, S $20), one for Zanzibar coastal (L $15, S $ 35) and Zanzibar Stonetown (L $15, S $ 40). If breakfast was included with hotel, we did not budget for it. The prices are for two people. We budgeted for $5 per day for snacks and Coke.

Tanzania and Botswana mainland – Breakfasts averaged about $7.50 for two. Lunch averaged about $15 for two. Suppers averaged about $15 for two. Lunches were over budget but suppers were under budget, so it came out fairly even.

Zanzibar coast – Lunches averaged almost $17 for two. Suppers averaged about $26 for two. Again, lunches were over budget but not by much. Suppers were cheaper than anticipated by about $9 per meal for two.

Zanzibar Stonetown – The one full lunch we had was about $7.50 for two, under-budget by $8. Suppers averaged about $15 for two, quite abit lower than anticipated.

Over all, we spent $578 on meals and budgeted $895, under-budget by $317. We do not eat at expensive restaurants, making the Lonely Planet our main source of possible restaurants. We could have spent quite abit more if we ate at more upscale touristy restaurants.

Entertainment/Fees – We budgeted $117 for a spice tour and entrance fees to museums while in Stonetown. We paid entrance fees to a couple of parks in Tanzania mainland and did a cheaper spice tour, so ended up underbudget by ($117 – $92) $15.

Spending Money – Because we travel with carry on bags only, we do not do alot of shopping. What we do buy, is small and usually not costly. We budgeted $120 for presents for us and family and $500 for artwork that we were hoping to buy at one of the lodges we stayed in. The artwork did not materialize, so we saved the $500. We ended up spending $203 for presents for family and stuff for ourselves, which included 4 cds for $88. I think that we need to budget more for this type of shopping in the future. Even with the over-spending on shopping we came out ahead by $417.

Miscellaneous – We hate to admit this but with all our care and attention to funds and budgets etc, when we did a mid trip calculation of funds, we were missing $137. My theory, and I believe it to be true, is that a $100 and a $20 (or 2 maybe) bill were stuck to other bills when we exchanged money and the clerk, of course, did not say anything. New US bills are terrible for sticking together and somehow we did not catch that they were stuck together. So, we lost about $137. We also had some miscellaneous expenses of a pair of reading glasses for Mur when his broke and some dental floss. We did not budget anything for Miscellaneous and spent $153.

Looking at the overall budget vs actual for cash only, we budgeted for $4,000 and spent $3,200. When we counted our US cash when we got home, it was $800, so it agreed to our tally.

London – We incurred extra expenses of about $103 in London for two meals, Undergound fare, luggage storage and a present. These were unexpected expenses and go against the overall cost of the trip, but we paid for them using a credit card, so they did not affect the cash tally.

Westjet flight – We also incurred the cost of a Westjet flight (credit card) that we had to book when we couldn’t change our existing flight when our return flights got messed up. Murray is trying to get all or some of this money back from British Airways.

Lessons learned from this exercise:

  • Crinkle new US bills so they do not stick together!
  • It’s okay to over budget meals, as you don’t really know what the prices are going to be.
  • Allow for tips for hotel staff regardless where you travel.
  • Expect unforeseen expenses and make sure you have a way to pay for them.
  • Tracking daily expenses is a good exercise if you really want to know what you spend.
Posted in Planning and Packing, Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Must Haves for a Safari

Here are a few items that we think are essential to pack for a safari.

Lens cover to protect against dust – If you have an SLR camera with a large, expensive lens, take some sort of lens cover to protect it against the dust. The Serengeti is very dusty and there is no escaping it. Murray’s lens has dust in it and we have to send it away to get cleaned, if it can be cleaned. To avoid possibly wrecking a lens, take a cover for it.

Binoculars for each person – Each person should have his/her own binos. This avoids having to share and potentially missing something.

Flip Flops – We wear flip flops in our rooms and tents so not to tread in bare feet. With unknown bugs, it is safer to have some protection on the soles of feet. We wear them into the shower for non slip protection and in case the shower is not so clean.

Rain Poncho – The best protection against the rain in an open sided safari vehicle is a rain poncho. It covers torso, arms, legs, shoes and bags (sitting on laps). A rain jacket would not provided this much protection. Pat, our guide in Botswana, uses a rain poncho!

Warm Layer, Fuzzy, Jacket or Sweater – Even if it is hot during the day, the evenings often turn cool. Evening game drives, when sitting in an open vehicle in the wind, can be cool, so a warm layer is essential.

Clear Lens Glasses – Murray had a hard time with bugs flying into his eyes in the open vehicle when he didn’t wear his sunglasses. This was a problem on evening game drives and cloudy days. He was wishing he had brought his clear lens cycling glasses to protect his eyes.

Posted in Planning and Packing, Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Learning Swahili in Tanzania

When we travel to a far off country, we like to learn a handful of words in the local language. Saying phrases like “The check please” and “No thank you” can make a waitress beam or a hawker walk away. While in Tanzania we learn Swahili.  We pick up the main words very quickly and we decide that Swahili would be easy to learn if given 6 months.

We greet people with Jambo (Hello) and they reply See Jambo (Hello to you, or something like that).  La La Salaam (Good night), Mambo (How are you?) and its response Poa (Good or Cool) get smiles from folks when we say them.

Assanti (Thank you) expands into Assanti Sanna (Thank you very much) or to Appana Assanti (No thank you). We used the last one many times while in Stonetown to discourage the hawkers and touts.

Kariboo (you are welcome) doesn’t really mean you’re welcome as said after thank you, but it means you are welcome to come into my shop.

A Kuna Matata (take it easy, easy does it or hang loose) was uttered by a few touts to Murray when Murray had to get terse with them to leave us alone. Isn’t the saying a song from the Lion King?

Pole-pole (slowly-slowly) as we hiked up and over Mt Makarot or crossing a busy street.

Dojo (hot) was Murray’s favorite and he said it many times as a start to a conversation. It always got a chuckle as Murray could not quite get the j to sound quite right.

We learned that there are many goodbyes in Swahili. There is a good bye for when you do not expect to see the person again and a goodbye for when you will – more like a see you soon. Unfortunately we cannot remember which one Wahari (g00dbye) is, so I will just say La La Salaam.

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Hippo

Hippopotami live with a bad rap. They are quite docile and not overly aggressive. Things  get ugly if you piss one off, like this fellow above, but if you don’t bother them, they lounge about in their pool like over sized ancient Romans in the spa. Bodily contact appears to be an important sensation as the pool is large but the hippos are all in one part so close together that the ones in the middle can not get out.  The day passes slow for a hippo with nothing to do but wallow.

Hippo Pool

Hippo Pool

There is a symphony of sound coming from the hippo pool. Grunts, puffs, burbs, farts, huffs, squeals and growls.

Hippos emerge from the pool at night to feed. Sometimes they will walk far to graze. In Botswana, we see darker shapes against the dark sky munching.

Pat tells us that hippos share some similar DNA with whales. I believe this as one hippo we spot is jumping up out of the water and performing a breaching like splash back into the water. Most whale like.

Whalelike Hippo

Whale-like Hippo

 

Posted in Tanzania and Botswana | Tagged , , | 1 Comment