Glacier Lake Backpack

We are getting ready to hoist our backpacks in the parking lot at the Glacier Lake trail head and we chat first to a couple from Quebec and then one from Australia. We start down the trail and meet a family with very strong Spanish accents. We are at an international destination in our Rocky Mountains.

Murray ready to go

Murray ready to go

The Glacier Lake trail head is about 1 km away from Saskatchewan Crossing, where Hwy 11  intersects Hwy 93 midway between Banff and Jasper. The hike to the lake is about 9 km on a relatively easy rolling path. We plan to camp one night and hike out the next day to get two days of hiking in a row to practice for the West Coast Trail.

After 1 km we cross the North Saskatchewan River on a bridge. The water is rushing under the bridge working its way to Edmonton, where we live. After another kilometer, we stand on a high bank with a view of the Howse River.

Howse River

Howse River

We hike about 5 km up and over one shoulder of Survey Peak on a well traveled path. We cross a small creek numerous times, its burbling keeping us company in the quiet forest. As we start to head down off the shoulder, we know we are nearing the lake. We come across an interesting sight. A perfect circular hole in a tree with a large pile of wood shavings below.

As we stand by the tree, a woodpecker sticks its head out of the hole and peeks at us. Surprise! It disappears, then peeks again! We stand there amazed! The woodpecker doesn’t seem to be afraid of us. It has been building a nest in the tree and the shavings of its labour are strewn on the ground. It flies out of the hole and lands on the adjacent tree, hops around and pecks, as woodpeckers do. We simultaneously dig out our cameras and start shooting pictures.

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We reach the campground and find that it is very full. Only one spot left and it doesn’t look appealing to us. A group of young hikers tells us about a campsite 300 m further down the trail along the lake that is very nice. We decide to go take a look at it and when we arrive, it doesn’t take us more than 2 seconds to decide to stay.

Debbie at Glacier Lake

Debbie at Glacier Lake

We pitch our tent by the water so we will get the morning light and near some trees for shelter.

Our camping site

Our camp site

The lake is an icy grey colour and its mood changes by the minute. We see two glaciers, one at the end of the lake (Southeast Lyell Glacier) and one across the lake. There is a loon floating on the lake and it calls occasionally, each time Murray and I stop what we are doing and look at one another with eyes wide. The call is piercing, lonely and haunting.

Glacier Lake

Glacier Lake

We cook soup and then supper, enjoying the view as we munch our rice, chicken and peanut sauce. It’s Murray’s birthday today so we have a treat for dessert – banana chips, peanuts and melted chocolate. We tidy up our camp, hang our food and cooking utensils  while watching rain clouds approach from down the lake. We decide to take shelter from the rain inside the tent.  The sounds of the thunder bouncing off the mountain, wind blowing down from the heights, trees dancing, waves lapping on the shore and the rain pinging on the tent are like a symphony composed by Mother Nature.

After the rain, we climb out of the tent for a stretch and then retire for the night. In the morning, the sun is bright on the tent and the clouds hang low over the lake.

We watch the clouds lift while we pack up. We take one last view of the glacier before we start our hike back to civilization.

Southeast Lyell Glacier

Southeast Lyell Glacier

 

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Travel and the Internet

The internet has changed the way we set up for travel big time. I do not know whether the change is for the better or not. Years ago we researched our potential destination by book. Borrowed books from the library and bought the one, Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Moon, or one of the others, we thought best for our proposed destination. We bought a plane ticket, usually directly from the airlines. There were none of the complications of today, just pay the price quoted, no surcharges, no hidden taxes. Occasionally there were sales but not often and the cheapest price was almost always from the carrier. We booked hotels for the day we arrived, we are usually a mess from stupid hours of travel, and our last day so we could prepare for the trip home without stress. We got on the plane with a sketch, an outline of what we wanted to do and where we wanted to go. We generally knew how to move about. We landed, found our predetermined abode, got our act together and the next day we set out on an adventure.

The internet has changed things significantly. We still start out by researching a potential destination. We still use books to some degree, (old habits die hard), but most of the research is done on the internet. This is a lot of work as we have to interpret every bit of info read. Not everything on the web is fact, I suspect most is not.  So we read, read, and read, trying to get an overview of the place we want to go. We look for areas to visit and what we want to see. As an aside we view the accommodation available. We check out transportation methods and schedules. The research is much more detailed than years prior. The momentum carried as we gather myriads of info gathers speed and the amount of info gathered soon becomes more than we can easily decipher.

After determining the number of days required to see a place and what dates we can go, we book the long haul flights. We can choose from a number of discount ticket vendors, we can do it ourselves with the airline or we can go through a travel agent. The prices can very and we do look for the cheapest price for the flight we want. If we do our homework we are able to steal itineraries from various web sites. With our up coming trip we were able to get a cheaper price from a travel agent using the itinerary lifted from one of the discounter’s web site. It is significantly less than what was available on the Air Canada website yet it is mostly on Air Canada planes?

We proceed to book a hotel for our first and last days of the trip. These hotels are near the airport through which we enter and exit the country and are not necessarily near the places we will visit during our stay. Although, we sometimes spend time in the city that hosts the airport so we may book more than one night.

This is where we depart from our planning methods of previous trips. We now look at where we are headed and the available accommodation. We, usually me, spend tons of time on TripAdvisor sussing out hotels. It is easy to know what is available from home using the internet. Where as we used to trip around once we arrived at the location, see the hotels for ourselves and bargain for the cost per night.

Now we short list a few hotels, email the lot with a few standard questions, search the net beyond TripAdvisor, pick one and book it. This does a few of things. One, it extends the length of the trip as you sit at the computer and live part of the trip virtually, there by participating in that part of the trip in advance of actually arriving. It does however take away from part of the learning experience by leaving out the interaction with some of the hotel staff and learning the system required to secure accommodation in a particular country. It also ties us down to a fixed itinerary without much chance to make changes. On the plus side doing things in advance does take some of the stress out of arriving in a new place without a bed to lie in and it does allow more time to “see the sites.”

Since we have figured out where we are going, how many days we are going to spend at each place and where we will bed down we might as well book transportation. It is easy to find the airlines that do the domestic trips when the world wide web is at our fingertips. So we get online, figure out how each little air company does their online booking and wham bam we have the connections from place to place.

All there is left is to leave Canada and arrive at our destination.

As I mentioned earlier I do not know if the method we used prior to the web or the method we have used on our last couple of trips is better. We now have a plan laid out with not much to do on the fly and a lot of the stress removed. On the flip side we have to be more exacting in our movements and if one of our pre-planned events is mistimed it can throw off the entire schedule. It also takes away from the spontaneity we used to enjoy.

Previously we travelled with a start date and an end date and a general idea of a schedule but if we wanted to spend an extra day in place X we did so, a day was eliminated from our stay in a place down the road. This is always a gamble but so is predicting a specified number of days in each locale.

Our last three trips have been programmed to the hilt. As we are getting our latest trip to Myanmar and the Maldives together we both have the same thought. We talk about our next trip being much less structured, we will try to resist the temptation to book the entire trip before we leave. But that is down the road and we will see if we can make it happen.

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A Design Problem

Travelling is a design problem. You start out with a sketch, you solve mystery after mystery and as you do, the end product becomes clearer and clearer. In school I learned once you think you have the problem solved, scrap the entire design and do it again. Do this two or three times. Each rendition is a stronger solution. Every time you retrace the steps, you know at what points you previously just accepted an avenue to follow and it did not become apparent that your chosen solution was not the proper direction until it was too late to change. The second or indeed the third time through you are able to foresee the future, so to speak, and the path then followed is a much a stronger route leading to a better end result.

That is how we ended up booking a room on a live-a-board dive boat in the Maldives. Our first premise was that we were going to be in Asia so what place is on our dive bucket list that is close to our travel hub, Bangkok.

The dive destination highest on the list is Sipidan. So, we start to do the research and things look good. The dive situation is a bit complicated because only so many people are allowed to visit the island of Sipidan each day and each dive operation only has a limited number of passes. There are other dive sites close by so you will dive, it is just that you will probably visit the reason for going to Sipidan only once or twice in a week. We are in the midst of trying to figure out that particular problem when a story in the newspaper tweaks our attention. For some reason the exact area where the accommodations for diving Sipidan are located there seems to be gun battles raging in the streets. I know I must read between the lines of any news story but the village named in the paper and on the Canadian, American, Australian, and UK diplomatic websites is where the airplanes land and could be where one chooses to stay as a base to dive from. The advice is “Only necessary travel recommended.” Brains take over from excitement, we scrap design number one.

Destination number two, The Maldives. If you have ever seen pics of the Maldives you will no doubt have it on your bucket list. (Thumb through a couple of the hotels on Tripadvisor and you will get the idea.) It is portrayed as Eden on water. The islands are the lowest land mass in the world and with global warming they are expected to soon be beneath the water. Anyway, preliminary sketches of the project look good. There is a flight from Bangkok direct to Male, the Maldives capital, and the websites of the resorts look just as imagined. There doesn’t seem to be any inherent gun play about. On to design development. We spend a good amount of time trying to figure out where the best diving is, what resorts have good dive operations and what might be expected at each of the resorts. The islands that make up the archipelago are small and for the most part every resort occupies its own island. Red flag number 1.  When booked at a resort you dine at their restaurants, dive with their dive operator, frequent their entertainment, etc., because they are the only game in town. If you so happen to choose a place and it turns out not to be to your liking, TDB. (Too Damn Bad).

Then there is the fact that many years ago the Maldive government made the decision that their country will be an exclusive destination for travellers, thereby avoiding the problem of degenerate backpackers invading their panacea. This means the resorts cater to those with money and those funky over the water individual cabin hotel rooms are north of $600 per night. Of course there are less expensive ones but from best I can make from the reviews you get what you pay for and the Maldives has a different scale of value in comparison to the rest of the world. We talk and decide we will not pay $1000 a night, not even in the Maldives. Scrap design number two.

We are back to Bangkok and where can we get to easily from our hub. There are many locations. The close ones of course are the Thailand coast and Malaysia. Neither one is on our list and a cursory look does not excite us much. There are places a lot farther but that takes a day or two from our diving and we are reluctant to do that. We leave this option before we even reach preliminary sketches. That brings about a re-examination of the reason we want to go the Maldives. Our conclusion; “to dive.” 

Sketch number four. If we are going to dive what is the best way to maximize the diving we are going to do and how do we choose the best dive sites. A live-a-board? Why not, they are expensive but our past experience was a good one, it was first class all the way. The boat moves around to the best dives sites and the whole boat exists because of the diving and therefore should have a top notch dive crew. We are captive like on a single resort island but I will take my chances on a dive boat rather than a land locked resort.

Back to the internet and see what is available. Things look good. There are many boats plying the Maldivian waters, the majority are slightly less expensive than the resorts and there are only about 20 people aboard. We understand that to do the live-a-board thing we should be divers and want to dive. Diving occupies most of the day, eating and sleeping are fit around the diving. I guess we could read or such but we would have to very happy being entirely sedentary.

Next we look for boats sailing on the days we have available, a few email inquiries, some talk back and forth and we have it nailed down to two boats. Debbie lays out one of her now infamous spread sheets to make the comparison and our choice is made. We contact the MV Orion  with some final inquiries. We then notice that there is an agent  that works with the boat in Canada. After some discussion we book through the Canadian contact. In the long run it should cost a bit less. The Orion, as is usual in the rest of the world, charges for the using a Visa, the Canadian firm does not and this will save 4% on an already expensive venture.

We scrap the plan 3 times but with each redo the plan got better and now the final design is very strong and addresses the underlying question “What is the reason for us wanting to visit the Maldives?” A question it took us at until the third run through for us to put it to words. Don’t be in too much of a panic and don’t be afraid to start at the beginning  over and over. The end result will be more to what you had in your gut when you first set out on your design problem.

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A Waylaid Practice Backpack Trip

This morning we were supposed to wake up in our tent out in the mountains on a practice backpack trip in Banff National Park. Instead we wake up at my cousin’s house in Calgary who has sheltered my sister and her husband (R&D), Murray and me for the past two nights.

On Thursday, we help R&D load their household into a Budget Rental Truck and start our drive from Edmonton to Canmore, where they are moving back to after spending 5 or so years in Edmonton. We get turned around at the Kananaskis turnoff. The highway is closed due to Cougar Creek, in Canmore, flooding and taking out parts of Hwy 1 and 1A. There is no access into Canmore except emergency vehicles.

So here we sit watching the devastation happening across southern Alberta. High River, Canmore, Bragg Creek, Calgary, Banff, Lethbridge and Medicine Hat are all affected. Flooding caused by extreme rainfall (200mm in Canmore!)  has taken out highways, subdivisions, whole downtowns and bridges.

The power of water is amazing. The dedication of emergency fire, police, hospital staff is incredible. The destruction is mind boggling. The compassion shown by people for their neighbours is heart warming.

I learn that social media is the place for news. Facebook is invaluable for R&D to get information on the status of their home in Canmore. (Luckily it is not near Cougar Creek and the flood risk for them is manageable.) The Town of Canmore and The Rocky Mountain Outlook newspaper website are posting updates constantly. 106.5 Mountain FM has been tweeting also. These four sources have been extremely helpful to R&D.

To be so close to this devastation and to be indirectly involved has been exhausting and astonishing.

The practice backpack trip will have to wait.

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The Chicken Story Continued

I dehydrate some more chicken. Bake it, cut is in small strips and then dehydrate it. I start it in the morning and watch it carefully. I stop dehydrating  when the chicken is still bendy but looks very dry. (A note: I think I would dehydrate it longer so it changes to a darker color. I am not sure all the water came out and if the conditions were right, it would spoil in a hot backpack.)

To rehydrate it, I add water to the ziploc and let it sit all day. By supper time, it had lost its dry look and the color was back to what cooked chicken should look like.

Rehydrating chicken in a ziploc

Rehydrating chicken in a ziploc

I make a small batch of chicken soup with chicken bouillon, dried veggies, rice noodles and the rehydrated chicken. The chicken was chewy but perfectly edible. Murray and I decide that this soup was one that we could take backpacking with us.

Chicken Soup

Chicken Soup

 

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Dehydrator 1, Debbie 3

Fortunately, I do have success with the dehydrator to offset the chicken disaster.

Success #1 – Dahl (or Daal) – Murray and I really like Dahl, something we learned to eat while in India. On rice or with naan (Murray) or rice tortillas (Debbie). I prepare Dahl one day and we have it for supper. The next morning (see, I learn) I measure out 1 cup and spread it on plastic wrap on a tray in the dehydrator and turn it on. In about 4 hours, it is dry and starting to crumble. I take it out, let it cool and bag it.

The next day, I rehydrate it. Mistake #2 – Always put in LESS water than you think you should! It turns into soupy Dahl but it rehydrates just fine and I cook the excess water off. Yummy! Dahl is coming with us to the West Coast Trail.

Success #2 – I dehydrate a fajita filling mixture made with beef strips, red peppers, salsa and some spices. After about 6 hours, the beef was bendy but dry looking. When I rehydrate it, I still do not let it soak long enough, but it is chewable. Note to self: 3 – 4 hours prior to heating, start rehydrating.

Success #3 – I dehydrate cherry tomatoes cut in half. After about 3 hours, they are still moist in the center, so I think they should be dehydrated slightly longer. They are delicious! These are a definite YES to take backpacking to add some tang to supper. the next time I do tomatoes, I leave them in for about 6 hours and they are drier.

Dehydrator 1, Debbie 3

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Dehydrator 1, Debbie 0

I have learned over the years that my body functions best on meat protein, fruits, veggies and a limited amount of starches. I notice that many recipes for backpacking draw proteins from lentils and beans combined with rice, noodles, milk and soy. I am not real keen on eating this way for a solid week. So, I want to take some chicken backpacking with us without resorting to canned chicken.

I do my first dehydrator test on some cut up chicken. After baking two breasts, I cut up one into fairly small pieces and shred the other one. I place them into the dehydrator and turn it on. Mistake # 1 – DO NOT start dehydrating after supper at 7:00! By the time I want to go to bed, the chicken is still soft. I set my alarm for 1:00 and go to bed. When the alarm goes off, I pad out to the kitchen, unplug the dehydrator and go back to bed.

In the morning, I check the chicken and it is rock hard. Little pellets. Dark in color. Okay. I bag it and let it sit on the counter for a day or two.

I decide to rehydrate the chicken and maybe use it for our supper. Not knowing how long it will take to rehydrate, I put some water in the ziploc at about 4:00 pm, thinking it should be soft by about 5:00 when I start supper. 5:00 rolls around and it is still rock hard. I start supper, 5:30 and still rock hard. I dump it into a pot, put more water in the pot and heat it up. Still rock hard. Can’t even chew it. I let it cook while we finish prepping supper and then eat. It never really gets soft. Great! Into the garbage it goes.

Dehydrator 1, Debbie 0

I watch a You Tube video that says to use a slow cooker to rehydrate chicken in stews. Oh, so now we have to take a slow cooker backpacking with us! So, it is now obvious that it takes maybe a full day or a full afternoon to rehydrate chicken to be usable in a “quick to make” recipe. That is my next test on my chicken quest.

Shoulda kept that rock hard chicken!

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Backpacking Food, The Learning Curve

Now that my hiking boot issue is mostly solved (just dealing with a slight sock issue), I move on to learning about eating while on a long backpack trip. All I can say is that it is complicated and there are lots of theories out there. Dehydrate everything. Don’t dehydrate at all. Dehydrate some foods. Buy prepackaged meals. Package at home from scratch. So many different ideas!

I have one backpack cookbook called “Simple Foods for the Pack” by Axcell, Kath and Cooke which is a Sierra Club Outdoor Adventure Guide.

I borrow cookbooks from my sister, R. They are:

Lipsmackin’ Backpackin’” by Tim and Christine Conners

Backpacker’s Recipe Book” by Steve Antell

The Wilderness Chef” by Claudine Martin

Backpacking Cookbooks

Backpacking Cookbooks

Murray and I both have food issues, likes and dislikes. I peruse the four books looking for recipes for breakfasts, lunches and suppers. I put aside the Wilderness Chef book right away as the recipes in it are too involved for us basic chefs on a week long backpack trip.

I tag recipes and make a long composite list of possible ideas for the three meals plus snacks and desserts.

During this process I keep thinking about dehydrating foods to reduce weight. What can I dehydrate? How do I dehydrate? I break down and purchase an inexpensive Total Chef dehydrator from Walmart for $55 online.

Total Chef Dehydrator

Total Chef Dehydrator

I make a grocery list and go shopping for all sorts of items we will need for recipes from the books.

I am all ready to start practicing dehydrating foods and testing recipes. My successes and failures in the next post.

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Hiking Boots – More Problems

Hiking boots seem to be my “bug bear” right now. My old boots disintegrated. I had to buy new boots. My new boots felt great for 2 weeks. When I increased my backpack weight to 18 lbs my new boots started giving me trouble. (sigh!)

Half way though a practice hike, my Achilles tendons start to hurt. Not a blister kind of hurt, but a pressure kind of hurt. I tightened my boots. OUCH! I loosen my boots. OUCH! I limp home. (Why does this always happen at the farthest point from home?)

It pays to have patience and keep trying different solutions until you stumble on one that works. Murray and I figure out that maybe my feet are too low in the boots. Maybe my feet should be raised up so the inside contour of the boot hits my legs at a different point.

I take my boots to Sundance Ski Shop, Alex Messinis confirms our diagnosis. She outfits me with a pair of Superfeet footbeds that will raise my heel up. I am hopeful.

Superfeet footbeds (red) and heel lifts (black)

Superfeet footbeds (red) and heel lifts (black)

Superfeet footbeds (red) and heel lifts (black)

Superfeet footbeds (red) and heel lifts (black)

Next time I walk in my boots, the right heel does not hurt at all. YIPPEE! The left one still hurts.  I fold up some cardboard and place it under the footbeds for more height. Not quite there yet. I borrow some heel lifts from Sundance and put those under the footbeds. My left Achilles doesn’t hurt but now there is a spot down by my ankle that hurts. One problem solved, now onto another one. I talk to my personal trainer, Tracy Rollo, about what muscles run down beside my ankle and what would cause them to hurt. I go home with new ideas.

My ankle seems to want to move inward when I walk and the boot is not allowing this to happen. Murray and I try tipping my foot inside my boot, an idea I am not sure about, but try anyway. We try different combinations of footbeds, flat insoles, heel lifts. THEN I tie up my boots a slightly different way. You see, I watched YouTube videos the other day about boot tying to give me ideas on my boot issues. Well, I tried retying my left boot slightly different and WOW!!!! NO PAIN!!!! I take a short walk, with my backpack on, and STILL NO PAIN!!!

RIGHT Boot with normal tie up

RIGHT Boot with normal tie up

LEFT Boot with alternative tie up

LEFT Boot with alternative tie up

The right boot has the multiple crossover tie on the 5th crossover up whereas the left boot has it on the 4th one up. The tops of the boots are tied up slightly differently also.

So what happened was that I was tying my boots too tight around my ankle, not allowing my ankle to move the way it wanted to. The alternate tie method loosened the boot around my ankle so that it quit hurting. My heel moves a bit in my boot, but that is minor compared to the pain. I can work on getting just the right tightness to stop my heel moving, while making sure there is no ankle pain.

I’m going for a hike!

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Practice Hiking

Shady path by the river

Shady path by the river

Our twice a week walks, preparing to backpack the West Coast Trail, take a new twist. We dig out our backpacks from the cupboard, dust them off, figure out whose pack is whose, try them on and begin to walk with our backpacks on. Oh, and we add weight inside them.

The first week, I have 11 lbs and Murray has 12 lbs of pack weight. We raid the pantry to make up the weight. We carry a combination of water bottles, cans of beans, chickpeas, tuna and tomatoes.

Today we up the weight to 18 lbs for me and 23 lbs for Murray. I take my Garmin with us on our walk because we do not know exactly how far we have been walking. We have also been taking my hiking poles to practice with. I have heard and read that poles are a good idea on the West Coast Trail.

Murray on the trail towards Goldstick Park

Murray on the trail towards Goldstick Park

I have been told that walking uphill with poles is much easier. I practice and I agree with the statement. It IS much easier and quicker to go uphill using poles. The trick is to pole with every step, which takes some coordination, but once mastered going uphill is a breeze.

Murray and I share the poles, each taking one pole, when we are on the flats. We both find that alternating the pole between our hands reduces the swelling in our hands that we get when walking for a long time. Murray figures it has to do with working our hands with the movement of the pole which keeps the blood flowing, not allowing it to pool.

I haven’t quite got the downhill poling figured out. It feels clumsy to me. I think my knees will benefit from using poles, if I can figure it out.

 Murray on one of the bridges along the path

Murray on one of the bridges along the path

The path we walk is mostly the path we cross country ski in the winter. It looks so different in the summer when there is no snow. The hills do not seem as steep and the trail looks much narrower in the summer.

We arrive home, I check my Garmin, and we are amazed that we have walked 10 km. No wonder my legs are tired!

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