South Beach, Florida

Miami Beach

View from our room!

We head out about 8:00 to do a self guided Art Deco walking tour. The Art Deco movement in Miami occurred between the 1920s and 1940s. The buildings have characteristic pastel colours, porthole windows and sleek curves. Murray and I are in heaven gazing at all the beautiful structures.

Miami Beach

The Barbicon on Ocean Drive

As we walk, we notice that the traffic moves along slowly. No one seems to drive fast along the narrow streets.The vehicles range from mini vans to Corvettes to  Rolls Royces to Jaguars to Ferraris to Hondas.

We do notice that pedestrians seem to walk across the intersections and streets whenever they want. They do not necessarily wait for the walk light to change to walk and the cars stop. The vehicles yield for pedestrians here. It reminds me of a very large warm Banff. Our penchant for following the rules has us waiting patiently for the walk light to change.

Miami BeachFurther north we start to view a few of the fancier hotels. Although art deco on the outside The Sagamore’s lobby is stark and white and it serves as a gallery for a very impressive contemporary art collection. Well worth a visit. The National Hotel has been refurbished to match its original decor, furniture and all.

Tonight we spend on Ocean Drive. I am quite sure it is the crusin’ capital of the east coast if not all of the U.S. Every type size and color of vehicle you can imagine is moving at about 2 MPH bumper to bumper in both directions. The sidewalks are packed, both sides of the street, the west side with people threading in and out of restaurant and bar tables and on the east side moving more freely the beach side walk. The people crusin’ as much or more than the vehicles on the road adjacent to them. South Beach is really an anything goes place.

The Deco buildings are lit at night with the early 20th century medium of neon. The lighting accents the building lines very well and it adds a considerable amount of atmosphere to the entire ‘scene’ along the drive. I’m not quite sure if the people on the west side of the street notice or even care.

Miami BeachWe started the day on a very peaceful avenue at 8am and by 8pm it has transformed to party central. There are thousands of people, tourists and locals alike, out and about enjoying a wonderful evening and if tonight is anything like last night it will go on until 4am tomorrow morning and there will be some hurting people going to work.

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Virgin Gorda, BVI to Miami, Florida

Today is a travel day. We leave Virgin Gorda for Miami, specifically South Beach. We are saying goodbye to the marine life and idyllic quietness of the island for the hustle and congestion of city life.

When we check in at Air Sunshine for our 10:30 am flight, I mention our 1:10 pm connecting flight to Miami and I’m assured that we are on the first of four flights to San Juan today. A plane comes in at 10:10 and we notice that our luggage is not on the cart that goes out to the plane. Okay. We still have time so we wait. Another flight comes and goes and then another comes and 6 of our travel companions fly away on that one. We end up on the last flight with 2 of our friends, C&T, and leave at 11:15, due to arrive in San Juan at noon. As we are walking to the plane, the Air Sunshine fellow says that he will have someone in San Juan to help us get to our American Airlines flight. That’s nice of him.

We arrive in San Juan and no Air Sunshine person to meet us. Guess we are on our own. Our friends breeze through customs (they’re American and got to go in a different line up) and we take forever. As we run down the stairs outside of customs, there they are with our luggage all ready for us to run by and grab it. THANKS C&T!!!

We run through the terminal to the American Airlines check-in counter and because we do not have checked bags, the agent issues us boarding cards and tells us we must run. Both she and the fellow at security are very helpful and friendly in assisting us get to our connecting flight. We are almost the last ones on the plane and once seated and buckled in we breathe a sigh of relief.

Unfortunately, with all the running and rushing, we have no time to pick up lunch and board on the plane with just two small granola bars as sustenance for the almost 3 hour flight.

The Miami Airport is easy to navigate and we make our way to the Metrobus terminal to catch Airport Flyer, number 150, to South Beach. Instead of a $40 taxi fare, we pay $5.30 for the express bus.

We are staying at The Colony Hotel on Ocean Drive. Our room is funky with bright yellow walls with green decor highlights and a dark blue tiled bathroom. Our room is an “ocean view” room over looking Ocean Drive (and is not too noisy) so we can watch the activity down on the street.

First impressions of South Beach. It is a bit weird. A lot of the people here smoke. I have not seen that in many years. But just how weird is it? Well all week K, one of our dive buddies, has been bugging me because I wore my bathing suit to lunch one afternoon on Virgin Gorda, but on a main street in Miami Beach we just saw a girl in a string bikini, for all intents and purposes naked, looking over a menu and waiting to be seated at a reasonably fancy restaurant. Souped up cars and motorbikes. Odd fashion statements. Humungous drinks. Car stereos turned up to ear splitting volumes.

A successful journey from Virgin Gorda to South Beach and now we will explore the environs around Miami for a few days.

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The Island of Virgin Gorda

Virgin Gorda is a charming island with the friendliest locals we have ever encountered. No matter if we are in a restaurant, at a beach or walking down the road, the locals that we meet are chatty and friendly. They are ready to share a smile and a laugh.

The island has numerous beaches and we have managed to touch down on 5 of them. The sand consists of fine white soft grains. No rocky entrances. Clear aqua blue water. When there are rocks off the shoreline, they harbour small fish that dart in and out of safe holes.

The Baths on Virgin Gorda

T and Debbie at The Baths

One popular beach tourist site / national park is called “The Baths”. Once down on the beach we walk through and amongst large boulders strewn on the waters edge. It is reminiscent of the West Coast Trail. This trail has ladders and boulders and spots where we must walk through water to get to our destination – another beach.

The wildlife on the island consists of semi feral goats and chickens plus geckos, birds and a rat spotted on a trail. We hear that the locals don’t take responsibility for a goat, especially when a goat gets into trouble, until they want to kill and eat said goat. The geckos are numerous and help keep the bug population down.

Virgin GordaFor a small island, the elevation gained while traversing from one end of the island to the other is quite large. Driving is interesting, the hills, both up and down, have very steep grades. The roads are also windy so care must be taken rounding corners. Most of the drivers are cautious and polite but we have encountered a fellow in a black Audi zooming along the main road from Spanish Town to North Sound and fear for those driving at the same time as he is on the road.

There are sail boats plying the waters off Virgin Gorda. They are mostly rentals. The islands are very close together and are sheltered so it is easy for neophyte sailors to navigate. The winds are kind to these tourists. It is also a place for those with copious amounts of money to spend some time. The power yachts moored in this cove or that are very impressive indeed. A 20M boat is a small one, yet is worth more money than the gross national products of some poorer countries.

Virgin GordaThe sunsets are breathtaking. The sun sparkles off the water as it sinks into the sea. The islands in the distance are layered in shades of grey as the light slowly diminishes and night approaches.

Virgin Gorda is a completely lovely island and is a destination worth serious consideration to revisit.

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Scuba Diving off Virgin Gorda

We are diving this week off Virgin Gorda with Dive BVI. They are a valet dive service, which means they do everything for us divers, excluding putting on our fins and BCD. They assist us into the water and help us get out again. B, our primary dive master, is attentive to all the divers and excellent at finding critters in the water and chatty while on the boat.

Virgin GordaThe boats are comfortable, and easy to move around on. One is faster than the other, but both are well run.

The visibility hasn’t been really great this week. The winds were howling earlier in the week and this has caused the waters to cloud up. The winds have died down today, so hopefully the visibility will improve.

Virgin GordaWe have noticed a lack of other dive groups out there. We have not seen one other dive group on any of the six days we have dove. We came across some snorkelers one day, but they were not too much of a concern for us. We have had the reefs to ourselves.

The quantity of fish is surprisingly small here. There are not the large schools of fish like we saw in the Maldives. We are working harder to spy critters to photo. We have taken to looking for small stuff – arrow crabs, cleaning shrimp, blennies and gobis.

Virgin GordaDiving in the waters off Virgin Gorda with Dive BVI has been a good choice and we are enjoying our time on and under the water.

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Dive Dive Dive

We have sorted out our equipment challenges and it is peace and tranquility under the waves. The “Snail Team” made up of S, K, V, P, Murray and me plus B, dive master extraordinaire, inch along peering under ledges, inside tube corals, into the deep blue, taking photos.

Virgin Gorda

Trunkfish

We hover beside our favorites taking yet another picture.

Virgin Gorda

Giant Anemone

We wait patiently for miniscule spotted decorator shrimp to peak out of anemones.

Virgin Gorda

Brittle Star inside a Sponge

We peer down tube sponges to discover brittle stars attached to the inside.

Virgin Gorda

Spotted Moray

We float above a spotted moray with its mouth open to breath.

Virgin Gorda

Flamingo Tongues

We marvel at porcelain like flamingo tongues holding tightly to fan corals and a shark as it cruises by causing great excitement in the Snail Team. .

Virgin Gorda

Caribbean Reef Shark

We have three more dive days to peak into holes, drift past coral heads and commiserate with the fish.

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The Surge in Virgin Gorda

Friday
The folks from New York show up today. Travel mode. The plane is over loaded and some of the bags had to remain in San Juan, K and S have their passports in a bag that stayed and they have to sit on the out of the country side of the airport for about an hour waiting for their bags to catch up to them. We visit and chat with the folks on the close side of immigration. After what seems like forever, we are on our way to Coconut Grove.

Supper tonight is at the Fat Virgin’s. We ferry from the Gunn Creek dock to the Biras Resort dock. The Fat Virgin’s has about 12 picnic tables outside on the pier and a shack for a kitchen. Wahoo, grilled, salad and fries is the choice entrée. The nine o’clock ferry is loaded with our group and various workers from the pier area. Murray has fun kibitzing with the locals as usual.
Saturday
Today’s diving is all about the surge. Surge is not current nor tide, it’s surge. As we lay in the water not moving, the surge pushes us first forward and then backward. It is quite soothing if you just go with it. I watch the soft corals bend and sway with the surge and kick only when I the surge is going in the direction I want to move.

Virgin GordaOur second dive finds us swimming into a cave! The entrance is quite wide and there is an opening to the sky for light. Becca, our dive master, K, Murray and I swim in using the surge to propel us forward. The cave has a school of Glassy Sweepers milling about. The cave isn’t scary but I know the way out is just behind me and is wide enough to see the other divers waiting for us.

Virgin GordaWe dawdle under the boat not wanting to leave the surge and the undersea world. We extend our dive time to 66 minutes.

 

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The Experiment of Diving

No matter how long someone has been scuba diving for, day one of a dive trip is always an experiment. Haven’t gone diving for months, wetsuit is super dried out, wetsuit is new, gear is supposed to work as it should.

We stride into the water at the back of the dive boat. Try to go down, and I do not go down. Murray doesn’t go down. We try everything we know and end up getting more and more weight from our dive master, S.

My mask keeps fogging up. I have to rinse it every few minutes.

Three quarters of the way through the dive, Murray cannot stay down. WHAT!!?! He ends up surfacing, san safety stop, near the boat and I stay with the group.

Four-eye Butterflyfish

Four-eye Butterflyfish

Once up on the boat, we discuss what has happened and why. First obvious point – we didn’t soak our wetsuits when we got to Virgin Gorda. Every drop of possible moisture is sucked out in our dry climate and it takes some time underwater to saturate fully.

Second point – I underestimated the buoyancy of a brand new wetsuit. I am still surprised at the extra weight I had to dive with.

Third point – During our second dive Murray realized that his BCD is self-inflating. The valve may be stuck and is allowing air to continuously flow into the BCD. If we cannot fix the valve, Murray just has to disconnect the hose from the inflator hose and no more air will leak into the BCD. (This is a new BCD and has been used on 1 dive trip only.)

Flamingo Tongue

Flamingo Tongue

While experimenting with equipment, we saw a sting ray, a spotted eagle ray, coral banded shrimp, sea pearl alga, a golden tail moray eel and our usual fish friends – spotted drum fish, barracuda, porcupinefish, trumpetfish.

Hopefully tomorrow the experiment will go smoothly.

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Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

My legs are failing, my lungs ready to explode, my side is ripping apart. I am running like an impala being hunted by a cheetah down a moving sidewalk in Miami’s International Airport. My heavy pack is bouncing around on my back and my rollie suitcase is faithfully staying upright and keeping up. I am yelling “EXCUSE ME – COMING BY ON YOUR LEFT” as I catch up and pass other slower moving travelers.

A snow storm in Toronto, late departure and de-icing has caused us to be over 2 hours late arriving in Miami. By the time our Toronto flight’s doors are opening, our San Juan flight is boarding. We have to traverse almost the entire airport going from Concourse J to D. If we run at hurricane speed we may make our connection.

After that extreme exertion, we find the doors at the gate closed. We are not the only people left standing on the wrong side of leaving. As sweat continues to drip down our faces and backs, we scurry over to the American Airlines desk to see if there is another flight today.

The fellow at the desk is extremely pleasant and puts us on standby for the 5:45 flight. Standby with a priority rating no less. He also covers off the possibility we do not get on that flight by booking us on the 8:30 flight. It sounds like we will make San Juan tonight as planned. We feel like we have won the lottery when our names are called to board the flight.

Jump ahead….here I sit in our spacious abode in the Gordian Terrace on Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. AAAHHHH!

The island is extreme in hills, friendly in people, gorgeous in scenery and crystalline in water. We have arrived in Virgin Gorda!

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Backcountry Packing List Review

When I packed my pack for our backcountry day trips, I threw into the bottom of the pack the items that I thought I would not use – toilet paper, first aid kit, warm shirts, extra socks and Gortex jacket. Shovel and probe were pushed down the inside of the pack. My down jacket went in next followed on top by my extra mitts, extra toque, goggles, lunch and water bottle. Into the top zippered pocket went hand/toe warmers, silver blanket, flashlight, compass, granola bars. My pack didn’t weigh too much and I didn’t feel overburdened.

Sol Mountain

Debbie geared up

It was warm in the Monashees, hovering around 2C everyday. I started off with 2 technical shirts and a light jacket and often shed one shirt on the hike up. I had on my regular ski pants, which were much too warm, and a pair of lighter long johns. I wore my lightweight cross country ski gloves and had some heavy ski mitts attached to the outside of my pack to put on for the ski down. I wore a small light toque and sunglasses.

Overall I think the packing list is quite exact for day tripping. If you give backcountry skiing a try, give our packing list a try too!

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Backcountry Skiing at Sol Mountain, BC – Last Day

Years ago when Murray started backcountry skiing I remember saying that I would never go into the wilds in the winter. Too dangerous. Too scary.

On Sunday, as I was sitting in the trees all by myself waiting for Murray to take his couple of runs down the cut block below the lodge, I realized I was sitting in the wilderness, in the winter and I was not scared. It was peaceful, beautiful, comfortable.

How things change.

Today is Tuesday and the snow quality has changed for the worse. It is too warm, rain was even falling earlier today.

We decide to walk to South Cariboo Pass. Not a lot of elevation change and it should be relatively safe. B, Murray and I start out along the same track we went on our first day. The snow is wet – pig snot, as they say – and Murray is hoping the sun will come out and soften up the top couple of inches and be skiable.

As we trek further from the lodge towards the pass, we keep an eye on what is above us looking for cornices that might let loose, or possible terrain that might slide. We walk across these slopes 50 feet apart. Murray tells me if some snow lets loose in my path, to turn downhill and go straight down and don’t stop. He also tells me if it is in his path to not take my eyes off him.

Okay, NOW it is scary. Murray and B keep discussing the conditions and the plan and I do feel confident in what they decide.

Sol MountainJ, A, N and K catch up to us and we collectively decide to stop for lunch at a grouping of trees that are in good condition, telling us that they have not been hit by an avalanche in a long long time.

Sol Mountain

View from our lunch stop

The view is stunning. The top edge of the mountain range opposite us creates a stark line across the sky. This is why we are up here. The scenery, the camaraderie.

Four of us decide to turn back and three decide to carry on to the pass. The snow is wet and slow but it is faster to ski than to walk skinned up, so we stow our skins and K and A set a perfect gentle slope for B and me on the way down. We get to the last couple of big rollers that lead to the lodge and K and A point their skis straight down and go swooshing down. B takes me down in a large zig zag pattern.  I am so lucky to have B with me, he knows what a beginner can (and wants) to do.

Murray, J and N turn around before the pass as the conditions get worse. They reach the lodge just after we do.

We create snow chairs outside, sit for Cokes and beers enjoying our last day and the view up at Sol Mountain. The experienced skiers in our group have had an excellent trip and are sure they will return here. The terrain is varied and there are so many choices in direction to go.

The beginner skier (me) enjoyed most of the skiing, but the trekking was hard work. K explains to me that it took awhile for him to like the trekking part so I should keep doing it because I will get better and therefore will enjoy it more.  I would return, scary and not so scary parts included, to ski the terrain we went across today. It’s been a long time coming but, I’m in for next year at Sol Mountain.

The Sundance Ski Shop Crew

The Sundance Ski Shop Crew

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