The People of Little Cayman

We have been here a week and we already have ‘friends’. The bartenders at the Little Cayman Beach Resort know us by name. We aren’t even drinkers, but we had the advantage of staying through change over day and we were the only folks in the bar for about a day and a half. So we have gotten known.

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We meet a fellow that dives here 1/2 the year, easy life from what I can make. On our first few dives we share the boat with a fellow that works for a dive gear firm. From what I can make J and J do one hell of a lot of diving. From the few discussions we had above water I’m not sure there is a corner of the world they have not been underwater. They each have camera housing that would fit about 20 of Debbie’s camera, housing and all.

One of the two dive masters on our boat is E, a 23 year old Brit. She came to Little Cayman Island, I think, she said 5 years ago and is learning her trade on the fly. She’s great to dive with and is extremely enthusiastic. T has made a career in the dive industry. He’s American but hasn’t really lived there much. His family lived around the globe while following his father’s work.

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We met a lady from Texas on the flight over and ran into her again yesterday in the bar at the Southern Cross Resort. She is a science teacher that is volunteering at the ocean research centre for a week. When we met she wasn’t sure what was in store for her but yesterday she informed us she was glueing staghorn coral to spikes in the sand near the existing reef so the folks could study how the coral grew and if it is possible to ‘transplant’ coral pieces in an attempt to reintroduce it to areas where it has disappeared.

All of the seasonal locals seem really nice and all are schooled in customer service skills each making us feel like we are friends from a way back. Drivers wave as they pass us walking on the road. Hotel staff greet us with a Good Morning! And they all feel like friends.

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Change Up

The Sea-Esta, our dive boat (photo by BH)

The Sea-Esta, our dive boat (photo by BH)

Today we change our normal routine of 2 morning dives, lunch and 1 afternoon dive. Today, we leave in the morning and return to shore after the third dive. This does take some planning on our side (picnic lunch) but the system is excellent. Up till now we came back to the Little Cayman Beach Resort for lunch after the second dive. Back on the boat after lunch, dove once and back to shore. This adds an hour  of travel time and the dive masters are out on the water doing afternoon dives which is not the norm and eats into their non work hours. So by staying out and bringing our lunch we are all back on land chilling an hour earlier each day.

Murray

Murray

Today’s recap. Another day of easy diving. I still am awed at the diving here, little or no current, visablity to Grand Cayman, coral in fantasic shape, freakishly large animals, warm water, colours of the rainbow.

Debbie

Debbie

Angelfish, squid, grouper, stingray, turtle, cowfish. Awesome!

After another great day of diving

After another great day of diving

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“Freakishly Large”

Our new catch phrase is “freakishly large” for Little Cayman Island. Why? You ask?

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Lobsters that that could feed a party of eight hungry divers.

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Green moray eels that could eat Debbie for a snack.

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Grouper that could move Murray out of the way with one nose bunt.

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Barrel sponges that could hide a fortune in gold bullion.

The reef here is has been a marine park for many years and these freakishly large creatures are a testament to that protection.

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Barrel Sponges

We dive “Ann’s Attic” this morning. The unique feature of this site are the barrel sponges that grow along the side of the mini wall.

Barrel Sponge

Barrel Sponge

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Tall, rotund, gnarly outside, smooth inside, sometimes harbouring creatures, in groups and standing solo.

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Diving in an Aquarium

The Aquarium

The Aquarium

Brittle Star

Yellow line Arrow Crab

Diving here is not very challenging, as if we are in an aquarium. There is no current, no surge, we don’t go deep, and the visibility is forever. The fish seem not bothered by us, we can get right in their face and they don’t swim off.  It’s just like an aquarium.

Grouper

Grouper

Brittle Star

Brittle Star

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Little Cayman Island – First Dive

It’s all about visibility under water here at Little Cayman Island. Our check out dive is complete and we are awed already. It is going to be a grand week.

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Road Blocks down to Little Cayman Island

The pressure of travel is reduced on our first leg of travel as we are only flying to Houston. No tight connections to make. Travel through the Edmonton airport, on the flight and through the Houston airport is easy, we get road blocked waiting for our free shuttle ride to the hotel. We are told the shuttle will be 15 minutes. At 30 minutes we phone again. Oh, in 10 minutes it will be there. Phone again. 10 minutes. At the 1 3/4 hour mark, the shuttle shows up. No explanation, no sorry, just a frustrated look on the driver’s face. Well, it is free.

While we watch every other hotel shuttles drive by numerous times, the sky gets furious and spews rain, lightning and thunder over our heads. The rain does not abate by the time we are at the hotel so we ask at the desk where we can eat that is close by. The clerk tells us that the sister hotel across the parking lot offers supper for $5. Pasta, marinara sauce, meatballs, salad, soup, dessert, juice, wine, beer……all for $5!!! And it is pretty tasty!

We sleep like rocks and are now sitting at gate E3 waiting for our fight to Grand Cayman. And….another road block. The sky is still furious. The weather gods have not been appeased and are now spewing forth lightning enough to close the runways. We are delayed. It is now pins and needles whether we make our connection on Cayman Airways over to Little Cayman Island.

ROAD BLOCK!!!

After pleading with the flight attendant to let us off the airplane first, getting off first, running through immigration, customs and the Grand Cayman airport we are 5 minutes late for the flight to Little Cayman. It is the Comfort Suites on Seven Mile Beach for tonight. A dip in the ocean and supper of jerk chicken makes life good again.

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Little Cayman Island – Minimal Clothing – Carry On of Course!

We are getting close to our trip to Little Cayman. It’s a dive trip and we are going with a minimal of day to day clothing. Well mostly.

Female vanity is striking again….. slightly. Here is what I am wearing on the plane:

  • sandals
  • shorts
  • undies and sports bra of course
  • lightweight wool T Shirt
  • dive rash guard shirt
  • lightweight rain jacket (it’s one of my running jackets)

Below is what is packed, either in my knapsack or my carry on bag:

  • sun dress
  • lightweight wool skirt
  • sleeveless blouse
  • dressier bra and 1 pair of undies
  • lightweight wool shirt that will double for sleeping in and wearing
  • 1 pair of socks for warmth on the plane
  • flip flops
  • sarong
  • 3 swim suits – I know, sounds excessive
  • sunhat and buff

This is NOT a lot of clothing! I have 3 evening outfits (mix and match) and 1 strictly day time outfit, that is not dive related. Not bad. More about that later. We also have a small bottle of liquid clothes detergent that will be mostly empty when we return.

The following is what Murray is wearing on the plane:

  • sandals
  • convertible pants
  • underwear
  • 1 pair of compression socks
  • short sleeve cotton T shirt
  • WARM LAYER

Murray’s knapsack and carry on luggage will contain:

  • 1 pair of shorts
  • 2 Cotton T shirts
  • 1 pair underwear
  • flip flops
  • 1 swim suit (editor’s note; not excessive at all)
  • old T shirt for a dive shirt
  • tilley hat
Debbie's dive clothing

Debbie’s dive clothing

We divide the clothes into three main categories – to/from diving, day clothes, evening clothes. For example, my diving clothes are swim suit, rash guard shirt, sarong, sunhat and flip flops. For day clothes I have shorts, lightweight wool shirt, undies/sports bra or swimsuit, sandals or flip flops, sunhat. Evening clothes are undies/bra, dress or skirt and blouse/shirt, sandals. Lots of choice and all my favorite pieces!

Debbie's day clothing

Debbie’s day clothing

The main idea behind the “diving” and “day” clothes and “evening” clothes is the first two get sweaty, dirty and salty. So we take a set of clothes that can handle this abuse and are separate from the evening clothes. The evening clothes won’t get as sweaty and are only worn for a couple of hours. Mine won’t need laundering at all over a 10 day stay as each outfit will only get worn 3 times (in my case, of course). Murray is slightly different, not having to deal with the vanity thing – we may have to launder his evening shirt once.

Debbie's evening clothing

Debbie’s evening clothing

Murray’s clothing works pretty much the same way except he isn’t as fashion conscience as I am. Diving – swim suit, old T Shirt, flip flops, hat. Day – shorts, T shirt, underwear or swim suit, sandals or flip flips, hat. Evening – shorts or pants, shirt, underwear and sandals.

Murray's dive, day and evening clothing

Murray’s dive, day and evening clothing

There are airplane and travel day specific clothes – socks, buff and jacket. I use my sarong and buff to wrap up in if I get cold. Murray uses the jacket as a warm layer. The jackets are also a rain layer, if needed. The clothes we wear on the plane double as either day or evening clothes.

Packing is easy as the dress, skirt, shirts and flip flops fit between the struts for the handle in the roller carry on bag. They provide a nice bed for all the dive gear that is going on top and filling up the bag! The swim suits and undergarments are stuffed in my fins or various crevasses. My socks, buff and sarong are in my knapsack and my nice straw hat (vanity strikes again!) gets tied to the outside of my knapsack. We will have fun finishing our packing and see you on the other side!

Bottom of Debbie's Carry on Bag

Bottom of Debbie’s Carry on Bag

 

 

 

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Changing Directions

We arrive home from the Galapagos Islands and I notice our message machine is flashing. Six new messages, three are from United Airlines saying…….”There has been a change in your flights to Grand Cayman and now there is a disconnect. Please call….” Great, barely home from one trip and we have to deal with our next trip. Sigh.

Back in the winter, we booked flights through Houston to Grand Cayman Island on United Airlines and then connecting onto a Cayman Airways hopper flight over to Little Cayman Island. Along with these flights we reserved a condo and scuba diving.

I phone United to find out what the issue is. Apparently the flights for the Edmonton-Houston and Houston-Edmonton legs are no longer operating. The agent explained that we are now booked on a later flight from Edmonton to Houston and that we would have to stay overnight in Houston. Wait a minute……we have a condo and scuba diving waiting for us, we do not want to be late arriving on Little Cayman. I told the agent that we will have to discuss the options and I will phone her back as soon as possible.

Murray and I decide that we want to keep the Houston to Grand Cayman legs the same to not mess up the Cayman Airways flights, condo and scuba diving. That means we will have to fly to Houston a day early, stay overnight and catch the existing Grand Cayman flight. On the way home, we will fly out of the Cayman on the original day, stay the night in Houston and arrive home a day later than planned. I research flights and pick out the exact flights we want.

All this discussion and deciding included our friend, B, who happens to be a teacher and we had to be sure that she could leave a day early. (She was never contacted about the change even though her phone number is on her reservation.) She then gave me the authorization to change her ticket too.

I phone United to make the flight changes. Holy s***! Two hours on the phone. Two hours! First we worked on going to Grand Cayman. We got those flights changed for both B and ourselves. Relatively easy.

Next came the return trip. United had kindly rebooked our return trip for us. Close your eyes. Picture this. Grand Cayman to Washington DC to San Francisco to Toronto to Edmonton. Sounds direct enough, don’t you think? I just laughed at the agent on the phone and said to her “Can you picture that please? There is no way we are flying that route!”. I gave her the exact flights that we want. We are going to fly Houston-Calgary-Edmonton because it gets us home earlier. Now this gave her quite abit of trouble, because even though I could choose the Calgary-Edmonton flight with a United flight number (and an Air Canada flight number), she could not see it. Her system is different than the public online system. She finally went online herself in order to see it, put me on hold for eons to talk to a supervisor and managed to book all three of us on the flight. What a hassle, but it is done. PHEW!

Next came booking a hotel in Houston for those nights we must stay there. We chose the same hotel we stayed in on another trip – Wingate by Wyndham Houston Bush Intercontinental Airport.

So we are all set for Little Cayman and just counting sleeps again before we leave.

 

 

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Impressions of Ecuador

Impressions of Ecuador

Ecuador is not third world. Not exactly sure how this rating system is applied but I would have to guesstimate Ecuador would rate as second world. The infrastructure condition and the amount of available amenities are not the same as North America or Europe but the folks are surely not suffering. In fact, I think the country is quite progressive.

Ecology

I only visit a very small part of the country but everywhere I go public trash cans have been converted into recycle stations where there are three bins for disposing of assorted refuse. One for garbage, one for recyclable metal and plastic and a third for organics. We live in a city that is a world leader in recycling and there are only a few of these types of stations placed throughout the city, but in Ecuador the single trash can is in the minority.

In 2017, Ecuador will shut off the last of their fossil fuel electrical plants and depend solely on renewable sources, hydro, solar and wind to provide the country with the required supply of electricity. This is far ahead of anything I have heard about in the so called first world. Kudos.

Public Washrooms

There seemed to be an adequate number of public washrooms about. Sometimes there is a toll to enter but all of the establishments I made use of were in good condition and respectably clean enough. This is not the case in most of the world and again first world countries could learn a thing or two.

Infrastructure

The roads we travel on, even in the remote Galapagos Islands, are in at least as good a shape as the roads here in Edmonton. The roads in Quito are excellent and the new highways are outstanding. In Canada we do have some weather challenges that mess up the roads but this is not a new thing and we should be able to maintain our roads to the condition of those in Ecuador.

Ecuador’s sidewalks could be improved. The sidewalks in Quito are quite good but the sidewalks in Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno are on par with Asia or Africa which requires walking on the road for a good part of any stroll around town.

Buildings

There is a lot of construction taking place. Flashy, modern buildings are being built alongside stately older structures in both Quito and the smaller communities on the Galapagos. There is some respect for the existing fabric and a lot of ‘heritage’ buildings remain close to their original state or renovated to modern standards.

Old vs New in Quito

Old vs New in Quito

The urban areas do have their share of dilapidated buildings but so does every city I have ever visited and they are no more unsightly than in my home town.

Safety

Whenever we decide to go somewhere we always hear how dangerous the place is and how one should not carry any valuables and be sure to be indoors after dusk. I do know that one has to be diligent when walking about anywhere and that tourists are easy targets for the local bad guys, but after spending a day in Quito I did not find it any more threatening than anywhere else I have been. We kept our wits about us and the one place we spot a bit of trouble we turn back towards the crowded centre of town and avoid any possible confrontation with the inebriated combatants. I don’t think Quito is any more dangerous than any other city in the world.

People

The people we meet and deal with on a one on one basis are wonderful. They are helpful, cheerful and friendly. In fact more congenial than other places. I find the atmosphere to be warm and welcoming.

Siesta

They still happen between noon and 3 pm (or sometime in those hours when the desire hits) everyday. After we found out about it we adopt the rhythm ourselves and go back to the hotel room between those hours. The rest was appreciated.  Since we are close to the equator, this timing would of course put us out on the street looking for supper after the sun went down at 6 pm but not once did I feel threatened.

Bicycles

We do ride bikes and we live in a bike unfriendly city. I am amazed that a “second” world country would have bike lanes, but they do. Even in the towns on the Galapagos that have a minimum of traffic there are designated bike roads. Yeah for them!

Bike Lane Sign on San Cristobal

Bike Lane Sign on San Cristobal

Mosquitoes

We must have been in the Galapagos in the mosquito off season because we encountered very few. On the Galapagos Islands there is the potential for huge numbers of the flying blood suckers. The islands have vast expanses of mangroves at the sea’s edge, perfect breeding grounds. The one time we loose a pint of the red stuff is walking back from a beach just after sunset on San Cristobal.

Snorkeling

We read about how good the snorkeling on San Cristobal and Santa Cruz Islands is and are quite excited by the possibilities. Frankly,  in my humble opinion, the snorkeling is dismal. At the sites near the towns there is very little wild life and except for Los Gretas the visibility was less than optimal. If you cannot get out on day trips where I would hope it would be better, leave your snorkel gear at home.

Snorkeling off San Cristobal

Snorkeling off San Cristobal

Smoking

In most cities smoking is banned indoors. This seems to be no different in Ecuador. The difference is there are no crowds of people gathered outside the entrance to office buildings, retail stores or eating establishments puffing away. I do not see very many people smoking at all. I do note a few on the islands but most are tourists. If Ecuadorians smoke, they hide it very well. I’m guessing this has a very positive effect on their health care system.

Ecuador is a outstanding place. I don’t know if we will get back but if the right opportunity arises I would not hesitate.

 

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