Photos of Lima, Peru, Bolivia and Chile

Bolivia

A sampling of photos are now posted on the blog of our trip to Peru, Bolivia and Chile.

To view photos, hover over “Photos”, in the main menu bar, until the drop down menu appears. Click on “Peru”, “Bolivia” and “Chili” in the drop down menu. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show.

I cannot seem to put descriptions on each photo, so if you have questions about any of the photos, please send me a note.

Enjoy!

Bolivia

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Homeward

I am sitting in the Calgary airport and we have just passed 24 hours on the road home from Santiago, Chile. It will be about 30 hours by the time we get in our door.

We have an afternoon flight out of Santiago. Can’t sleep in even though we know there is no way to miss our plane. Up at six and go for one more walk around downtown. I am still amazed at how busy this city is.

The ride to the airport takes us through a part of town we did not get to. The area looks like more of an average neighbourhood. The shops that line the street are more everyday kind of shopping. It doesn’t look too sketchy and in fact there are a couple of nicer hotels along the route.

The airport is a breeze. No line up at immigration, no line at security, no assigned gate. The gate appears on the board and when we get there we are the only ones in the lounge.   I guess people don’t pay too much attention to the “arrive 2 hours early” instruction. The next folks to arrive have been traveling all night from Australia. They are a little worse for wear but most have only the leg to Lima to go so the suffering is about to end. A woman, A, sits next to us and we start chatting. It is a small world. This lady is professor of genetic engineering at Griffith University and will most likely teach D, the daughter in law we just visited, in the next couple of years. She was at the front end of what the Aussies call long service leave. A three month paid holiday as a reward for 10 years service. Sounds like a good thing!

Not sure why but we are seated in Premier Economy Class for our flight from Santiago to Lima. Two people per three seats and could be the best meal (a tender steak) I have had on an airplane and really nice, entertaining host. He even magically produces a piece of Lindt’s finest when Debbie makes a joking request for chocolate. This may become a habit!

A major bump in our progress awaits us in Lima. After 6 hours of airport benches. We are informed the flight to Houston will be a little late. The official word is one of the lights on the control panel is malfunctioning. Funny though, the pilots do not arrive at the gate until a 1/2 hour after we are supposed to board. Cynical me, I think the malfunction of which they speak is a human light. Our flight is now 1 hour behind schedule and we have a close connection in Houston. Sleeping on the airplane is never that great but we manage 4 or 5 hours which will be of great benefit in the next two legs of our journey. The pilots gumboot it and we make up all but 10 minutes of the lost time. It is a rush but we make the gate for our flight to Calgary with 6 minutes to spare.

On the flight from Houston to Calgary we are seated next to a most personable fellow. HB is on his way to Banff from Dallas via Houston and Calgary. He is to meet a friend on a later plane and head straight to the mountains. They want to do some hiking. He is young, as shown by my next statement. It is Friday and they are headed back home to work on Monday. 7 hours each way on the plane and 2 hours driving each way for a weekend, we “older folks” don’t do that anymore. We arrive in Calgary and it is snowing, the ground is white. These two fellows are in for a couple of chilly hikes.

I don’t know what is up but the Calgary security folks are being a pain. I get asked twice if the only liquids I have are in the one litre bag and for the first time ever I am asked to put my iPad in a separate basket. Debbie also brought up the fact that the immigration guy’s casual conversation is very much a phishing trip. Without being blunt he is trying to find out why we had REALLY gone to Bolivia. Don’t people travel just to see things anymore? I guess we are sadly behind the times traveling for curiosity when we could find out all we need to know on the net?????

Most of our travel is spent in countries where English is not the main language. For the last 3 weeks it has been Spanish. It is not something that is obvious but the noise all around us is a din, the conversations are a sound but we understand very little and the words are not discernible. I didn’t realize it but it is also the case in the US as everyone is speaking English but with an American accent and we hear it as sort of a drone. This only becomes apparent to me when we board a Canadian plane in Calgary. All of a sudden I hear stories not just from one voice but from all directions and I understand every word that is going on around us. The subtle differences are easy on our ears.

We’re home now. We will pick up our routine and it will soon be as if we have never left.

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Tour Friends

Just when you think you are a world traveller you end up on a tour with 6 others and amongst us all we have most likely been to 90% of the countries on earth. If you pin the places Debbie and I have been to we have covered a good portion of the globe. There are still vast stretches of land without pins but there are also areas where the pins cover the country under them.

We joined up with 6 other folks in Santa Cruz 2 weeks ago to travel across Bolivia. For the most part we were all strangers. Our one common topic is travel. So, our first exchange was to do with travel. This trip involved a lot of car time so we were able to trade stores of our experiences abroad.

There are 4 Brits, which makes sense, Wild Frontiers is a British company. There are 2 1/2 Canadians and 1 1/2 Americans.

Most of us are old, 50 plus, but there is one young lady S, the half Canuck/half Yank. She survived a week with us older types quite well. Working in New York as a bond trader she travels a lot. Managing to visit 62 countries in her 30ish years.

T, the whole American, is a retired lawyer from Houston. Again he has extensive travel experience and has been to unusual destinations like Iran and North Korea.

J, a 79 year old retired electrical engineering tech from the south of England is in amazing shape. He has been around the world and as we end our trip together he is boarding a plane for an extra week on Easter Island.

J, lives in London. She retired from teaching some time ago and still travels a lot. Her stories covered Romania and other eastern block counties and places in Africa like Ethiopia and Morocco.

N, from the English countryside is a pharmacist. She is travelling with her friend, A, who manages a heritage property in the same shire. The ladies travel the globe looking for opportunities to ride horses. Argentina was one of the many destinations they used equine transport to see the country. No riding this time though, in fact I don’t think we saw even one horse.

Our Bolivian tour friends along with Liz, our guide.

Our Bolivian tour friends along with Liz, our guide.

It is experiences like these that bring me back down to earth and realize not only how much of the world I have seen but how much of the world there is yet to experience. We now have one more pin in the map and after talking to these folks several more potential pins press into the foam board.

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The Final Chapter

I love bread. I know it is fattening but it is the food I would choose on the desert island question. Bread and PB with a Coke as my drink of choice. The South Americans need to learn to make bread. They have some interesting bun things but even those could use some work. Their croissants taste like a poor quality Wonder Bread. I thought maybe it was just the bread our first hotel served but after 3 weeks I don’t think I have had one piece of good bread.

Santiago, Chile

Fries, french fries, on the other hand are great. I can take or leave fries at home but here they know how to cook potatoes. I read potatoes are a big part of the Bolivian diet and I have had many different kinds while here, all good.  I think the french fries topped the list. They are crispy on the exterior and soft but not mushy on the inside. Mr. McCain should take a trip here and see how these folks do it.

Santiago

The wind has been calm and I think it does not help the situation but the air here is sure yellow. It is a very large city and the smog is not only visible but I come back to the hotel grimy every night.

I am really impressed with the traffic here. It is easy to understand and works much the same as Edmonton’s. Generally people abide by the law. A red light means stop. Yes drivers push the edge but only into the yellow not the red. They are good to pedestrians. They do not necessarily stop for us, although Debbie and I were waiting at a crosswalk today and a driver halted the car and let us walk. Maybe it was because we are gringos but I don’t think so. When a walk light shows green all of the drivers respect it. Not one car has tried to run us down when we were crossing on the proper signal. When the walk signal is red the peds wait, they will cross if it is clear but they know the cars will not stop and they hustle if they have to.

Santiago, Chile

Our touring today involves the underground, metro here. It is a single ticket purchase gig. Walk up to the window buy a single ride and off we go. You can of course use a pass but we didn’t need one. We step into the crowded train and zoom. What we notice is the speed of the train. I am not sure but I don’t think I have been on a tram that moves that fast between stations and it was super smooth, no clickity, clack of the tracks.

The highlight of the day is the Centro Cultural Pueblito Los Dominicos. A mercado at the end to the subway line. It is one of the best artisan markets I think I have visited. Most of the stuff was truly hand done, in fact a lot of the shops were also the artists workshops, you could see the stuff being produced. I saw none of the “made in China sold everywhere in the world” trinkets.

We head home tomorrow and although I am not likely to get the Edmonton cabbie to stop off so I can get a beaver tail or 2 of naan bread at our local shop down the street, I will be looking forward to the first PB sandwich I will construct when we get there.

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A Day in Santiago, Chile

It is 7:30 pm and I am half laying, half sitting on the bed in our hotel room and my feet are throbbing. Today we walk and stand and walk and then walk some more. I am not cut out for walking, sitting is more my game.  That is why I am on the bed right now.

Museo de Bellas Artes

Museo de Bellas Artes

We start the day walking from our hotel to the Museo National de Bella’s Artes to view contemporary art. We always go to art galleries when in foreign cities. It gives us an idea of the artistic leanings of peoples not Canadian.

Santiago, chile

A walk through Parque Forestall and through a run down area wanting to be chic which brings us to the foot of the hill that is the Parque Metropolitano and the funicular. We splurge to save my feet and ride up to the top and then down again. The views of the city and the far off mountains from the top of the hill are stunning. We sit beneath the statue of the Virgin and study the various buildings.

Santiago, chile

We stop in at the Museo de Artes Visuals where we watch artistic videos that we do not understand. We do come away from the museum with a great idea for displaying our photos, and maybe even our fish videos, on a large screen in our living room.

A quick pit stop at our hotel and on to the Palacio Cousino. We discover another pedestrian street that is a great spot to rest and people watch. We decide that we could pluck almost anyone off a street here and they would look like they belonged in Edmonton. That is the nature of Edmonton – it is an internationally populated city.

Santiago, chile

A friendly gargoyle we find along our way.

We find a bakery on the way back to our hotel and buy one cheese empanada and one beef empanada to share for supper. A bench opposite the Teatro Municipal Santiago is our picnic place.

Walking and standing for about eight hours (Murray estimates about 15 kms) today takes a toll on my feet but the sights are incredible.

Santiago, chile

Graffiti along one avenue.

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Santiago, Chile

Our tour group slowly disintegrates. We leave S and T in San Pedro de Atacama. S is taking a later flight to Santiago and T is staying for a few extra days. We leave J in Calama as he is taking a later flight also. We say good bye to Liz, our wonderful tour guide, in Calama as she will be traveling back to Sucre, Bolivia, where she lives. Five board the flight to Santiago and when we arrive there, we say goodbye to A, N and J, who are traveling to England straight away. So, our group of nine is now only Murray and me and we are now in Santiago, Chile!

Santiago, chile

We notice a few things right away. There are TONS of people here! The population is 7 million, so I guess the wide sidewalks should be crowded.

Santiago, chile

We saw very few smokers in Boliva. Here there are many smokers. Wonder why?

There is a definite police presence in the plazas downtown. Police on foot, police on horseback and police with dogs. They seem to be in place to discourage the pick pockets and petty thieves. They chat with folks who stop and ask questions, so they are friendly, if not the dogs, who look ready to pounce on someone.

Santiago, chile

In our wandering this afternoon, we discover quite a few pedestrian only streets. The streets are filled with stores, from clothes to shoes to electronics, and the walkways are filled with people, shopping, going for lunch or just out for a stroll.

Santiago, chile

Estacion Mapocho

The gem we find today is the Estacion Mapocho, a train station built in 1912 and decommissioned in 1987. It was designed by Jecquier, a Chilean architect living in France and has that French feeling as soon as we step in the door. It is a grand station with vaulted ceilings in the foyer. It is being used as an cultural center now with a number of restaurants inside. We take a pause to sit on a 100 year old bench and to ponder the grandeur of this structure.

Santiago, chile

Estacion Mapocho

I think Santiago will be more to our tastes than San Pedro de Atacama. Just the architecture lifts our spirits. Two full days here to come, and I wonder what other gems we might discover.

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Chile First Impressions

New country. I think this country has a bit more cash than Bolivia. We cross the border and after about a kilometer we are on a brand new paved road. The shaking ends.

San Pedro de Atacama is a large town, most of it is fairly new. The character is distinctly different than that of a Bolivian town. The building type is not so indiginous. I cannot put my finger on it but the second we start our walk through town we know we are no longer in Bolivia.

San Pedro de Atacama, chile

Sab Pedro de Atacama

This town in particular exists for the tourist industry. Literally every second shop is a tour agent. It is also obvious the target group is young people. 80% of the other 1/2 of the shops are bars. The final 20% are tourist trinket shops. You have to get off main street if you want to find a corner store or a pharmacy.

Today we are to tour a bit around this area and see the Chile side of the Atacama Desert. Yesterday we passed the line that divides the altiplano and the desert. The difference is subtle but the desert is definately barren. Not sandy and duneish like the image of a typical desert but flat and gravelly and completely barrren of flora. The smoothish terrain is as far as you can see. The desert looks the same on the Chile side of the border but is at a much lower altitude.

Chile

As I said San Pedro has grown on the tourist industry. This morning we leave the hotel at 5am, destination the Geisers del Tatio. Us and 50 other tour cars, vans and buses in a convoy on a gravel road in the dark. There were so many people at the geysers you could not get a photo of the bubbling water without a tourist in the foreground. OK but not stunning.

Onward to a small village of folks that raise llamas. Damned if I can remember the name of it but it is a place I would not send people to. First of all, the entire troupe of tourists is in a 20 building village at the same time and second, the village has been entirely updated for those tourists. I was not the slightest bit interested in the place.

We have travelled across the entire width of southern Bolivia and I enjoyed every minute. So far Chile has not impressed me one bit. It is however a big country and there is a lot more to cover so I have to keep an open mind. I will see what the next few days bring as we travel to Santiago.

Chile

Sunset on our last day of the tour.

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Bolivia

Bolivia

Our hotel in Villa Mar.

We blow into a village, not much different from any of the other villages. Car turns off the main four wheel drive track and there is a non descript building ahead. The driver says ‘hotel’ and we pile out onto a dusty parking lot. The wood door we enter through could be hung on any of the adobe houses in town. The lobby is the first indication we are in a special building. This place is really nice. In fact it is beyond nice. Our hotel for the night has decor to match any boutique hotel in any city in the world. The rooms are furnished funky stuff that give it real character. Wow, who woulda thought. And this happens over and over.

We were warned that in the spring and fall and anytime really, on the altiplano, it can be very hot in the day and really cold at night. We came prepared for this each bringing long underwear tops and bottoms as PJ’s. The hotels did have heat we could access but the thing is they have these amazingly heavy, amazingly warm wool  blankets. I do not know how anyone could be cold under covers such as these.

The days are sunny and the sun is hot but there is this icy wind that blows through. So even though you think you should be hot it is quite cool. The ladies for the most part are wearing puffy jackets even with the noon day sun over head. Something I was not quite prepared for is the dust. We stomp it up when we walk, it blows up with the wind, we sit in it and it seeps in all the cracks and crannys of the car when we drive on the road. A shower is in order before dinner every day.

Bolivia

The altitude is silly. When we left Santa Cruz we were at 416M. Nothing to fret about. A couple of days later we are in Sucre at about 2800M. Another couple of days and we arrived at Potosi, 4090M. We then dropped to 3650M in Uyuni. After that we went higher and higher until today we topped 5000M for a part of the drive to Chile. Last night we again slept at over 4000M in a small village of Villa Mar. It was last night the elevation finally got to a couple of troop. N and T both had headaches at supper so Liz treated them with 15 minutes of oxygen. A didn’t have a very good night and received oxygen in the morning. The thing about altitude sickness is there is no way to determine who will be affected and when it will be a bother. Fortunately O2 is available all over the altiplano and our guide just happened to have a couple of bottles with us. A few breaths of oxygen can do wonders! Once we crossed the border into Chile, the road went down, a long way down, 2000M lower then we had travelled today and that drop seemed to alleviate the problems for our friends.

Our journey is planned to take in a sight or two on the way to San Pedro de Atacama. The most spectacular today is the Laguna Verde, (Green Lagoon), and man is it green. There is arsenic in the minerals in the lake and when the wind stirs up the chemicals they display the most vivid green color. In contrast to the cloudless blue sky it is a jaw dropping sight.

Laguna Verde, bolivia

Laguna Verde

The mountains here are somewhat different than the Rockies of western Canada. The mountains at home are not nearly as high in meters above sea level but may be as tall from the base to the tip. The big difference is the ruggedness. The mountains in BC and Alberta are jagged, sharp edged and mostly rock faced. Here they are much softer. The features are rounded and even though the tops are above treeline there seems to plant growth to the top. These are no less impressive just different.

Bolivia

This country is full of contradictions and suprises. Every day, every hour we experience something new and different.

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Real 4 Wheeling in Bolivia

We are off the bus, not even figuratively. The bus took us as far a Uyuni and we traded it in for 3-4 wheel drives. Yesterday was across the salt flats. Just shy of 4000M. We get on the salt and it is a b line to our destination. No lines, no signs, no speed limits and the smoothest damn road you will find anywhere. It is like travelling on a concrete road but without the regular clack, clack of the construction joints. We spend most of the day on a canvas of white.  Even though the surface is hard, the vision is soft like freshly fallen snow or a top of a cloud as seen from an airplane.

Bolivia

Today we are to travel the Ruta Laguna. This is real 4 wheeling. Two track roads that braid across terrain with absolutely no indication as to where we are going except the tracks under tire. Up and down, bounce, bounce, sand, rock, grassy sections, and every centimetre untraversable by any other type of vehicle.

Bolivia

Laguna Canapa

Laguna Canapa, our first flamingo gathering place. Hundreds of photos taken. I have seen flamingos before in a few places but they are usually far away and only distinguishable with a telephoto lens or field glasses.

Bolivia

Laguna Hedionda

Laguna Hedionda is also about flamingos. Only hundreds more and very, very close. Hundreds more photos taken. Three kinds of flamingos ply these waters, Flamenco Andino (Andean), Flamenco Chileno (Chilean), and Flamenco James (James). Everyone is impressed, the birds are so close and their colors are so vivid. It is going to be hard to top this and we have just started.

More treacherous roads, if they can be called roads. It is well after noon and we are headed to lunch. All of a sudden we are on a super highway. Gravel, but as flat as can be and wide enough for two lanes and shoulders. A short while later we arrive at Laguna Turquiri, the black lagoon, guess what? the water is black! As far as we can make there is no creature. The tables and chairs are brought out and we have lunch overlooking the lagoon. Somewhat like an 19th century picnic for the aristocracy.

Bolivia

Laguna Turquiri

Lunch finished and we are off to our last destination for the day. Amazing enough we head north on the super highway again. Soon we turn right and onto a double track, driving closer to the massive lava flow we have been driving amongst for the past hour or more. The cars pull up at a place of no apparent importance. A short 15 minute walk and in front of us lays the most beautiful laguna we have seen today. Laguna Catal, the water is bordered by 15M vertical walls of lava rock, the sun is low in the sky behind the wall and setting, creating deep shadows and reflecting off the water.

Bolivia

Laguna Catal

The hotel is a big suprize. A funky place in a totally non descript village. The drive was tough but the sights are worth every body shaking bump.

Bolivia

Our room for the night!

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Salar de Uyuni

We start the day learning how the people of Colchani harvest and package salt from the salt flats. They scrape salt loose by hand or machine. There are three grades of salt: construction salt which has lots of dirt in it, cooking salt which has a tad of dirt in it and souvenir salt which is the purest grade. The cooking salt is dried, has iodine added to it and packaged. Unfortunately the labour involved in this process exceeds the price obtained, so it is a difficult business. The souvenir salt is mixed with water and white glue and placed in molds to make various items for the tourist trade.

Colchani, bolivia

Packaging salt for cooking.

Driving across the salt flat, we stop to see where they harvest this salt
and also where they cut salt blocks, like bricks, to use in construction of
walls. The blocks are cut, dried and taken away by truck. The hole left is
eventually filled in when the rain water melts the salt and the slurry mixed with a little dirt creates a new layers over the next few seasons. So it is a perpetual business as long as there is a need for these salt blocks.

Salar de Uyuni, bolivia

Salt blocks used for construction.

We drive further onto the center of the salt flat, and we see that there is
less and less dirt on the surface, and more whiteness. The hexagonal shapes
on the surface are intriguing and fascinating. Looking in each direction, there is just whiteness far off into the distance.

Salar de Uyuni, boliviaThe surface is flat in the center of the former inland sea but as we approach the edge and drive onto land again, the salt ground is rough and broken up just like ice on a lake does in the spring in Alberta. We hike to the top of Isla Incahuasi, in the middle of the flats and looking out over the expanse, the salt flats appear to be the top of a cloud when flying at 35,000 feet or a blanket of freshly fallen snow.

Salar de Uyuni, bolivia

We cross the salt flats and drive onto the base of a volcano called Tunupa’s. Liz tells this story. Tunupa was a young girl who fell in love with Cusco, a young man. They married and wereliving very happily, when another woman, Cosuna, came along and stole Cusco away. Tunupa cried and cried and the salt from her tears made the salt lake and the Gods felt sorry for her so they turned her into a volcano and made the land on her slopes very fertile, which is why that area is the only place where royal quinoa, is grown. Cusco and Cosuna were also turned into mountains, close to one another but never touching. Cusco was turned into a deserted mountainwhere nothing grows and Cosuna was turned into a mountain that is covered in snow and is the source of water for Uyuni.

Tunupa, bolivia

Tunupa

The day is spent on and around Salar de Uyuni. It is an exceptional place with great vistas everywhere, on the flats, high on the island and on Tunupa’s slopes.

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