First Dive

The last time we went scuba diving was October 1, 2019. It was in Lembeh, Indonesia and it was muck diving. Every diver needs to experience muck diving as the creatures encounter are sometimes beyond explanation. I have great memories of our time in Lembeh.

That was 19 months ago.

Today we get back into the water on Bonaire. Only after a slight hiccup though. Murray’s pressure gauge was good through set up and buddy check and right up until he started to put on his BCD. Then air started hissing out. We don’t have the tools to fix it. We load everything into the truck again, take off our wetsuits and head to ABDive, where our truck and tanks came from. One of the fellows there helps Murray fix the issue (a dry and cracked o ring) while I sit in the shade and chat to folks that were on our flight.

OK, let’s try this again! We go to a different dive site, don our gear and walk into the water off a sandy beach. We usually have some jitters on our first dive, but today neither one of us feels them. Maybe we have done this routine enough that it is totally comfortable now.

Being suspended in water is very relaxing for both of us. It’s fascinating how I can hover over a coral head, not moving much, just a slight up when I breathe in and a slight down when I breathe out. We are one with the fish, one with the ocean.

Once at depth, we very slowly swim into the light current, getting our eyes used to picking out critters. We spy a couple of smaller eels, coral banded shrimp, angel fish, file fish, trunk fish and a lot of the usual fish friends. Once we turn around and ride with the current, we cover the distance in what feels like a shorter time even though the current is slow. We hug the bottom until we are at the beach again and emerge like two primordial fish making their first steps on land. A successful first dive.

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South to Bonaire

We arrive in Calgary at 10:30 after a three hour drive door to door. A couple of times during the drive I say, I can’t believe we are actually doing this. We are early for our appointment at Numi Health for the required PCR covid test but we go in anyway. Fill out forms, get tested and are out before our scheduled appointment time. Must not be busy. Doing my due diligence, I ask the fellow about what we do if the results don’t arrive during the allotted time….that has never happened he says, so you will be fine. OK…..(Note: if you need a PCR test for travel, use this company, they are great.)

Go back 24 hours….On Sunday we attempted to fill in and submit the Bonaire Health Declaration form. It is supposed to be submitted between 72 and 48 hours before arrival in Bonaire. The PCR COVID test is to be done within 72 hours. Because we are getting our test done in Calgary on Monday, we did not have the test results before filling in the form. So, we could lie on the form and say we did it and that the test was negative, or we could delay sending the form (outside the time requirement) until we got our test results. We decided to wait for the test results and submit late.

We spend a comfortable and chatty time with M&G visiting at their house. G drives us to the Calgary Airport Marriott Hotel, attached to the terminal as we have left our car at their house.

We have four time items on our to do list, which we tackle once in our room.

1. Obtain an 8 digit code for the antigen test required at the Bonaire airport upon arrival. We booked the test on Sunday but had to wait to get the code. We do that while we wait for the results of the covid test. Goes well as does another health form that needs to be filled out.

2. My COVID test result comes in from Numi. Negative! A sense of relief washes over me. Except where are Murray’s results? I thought I entered my email address for him too. We wait and wait. About a half hour later, Murray suggests we check his email, and sure enough, it is there. Also Negative!

3. We head downstairs to the hotel computer attached to a printer. We print copies of the test results . We also use that computer to fill out and print the Health Declaration for Bonaire, which we read is a requirement to enter Bonaire. We get that done too. Things are looking pretty good.

4. As we are in the terminal, we walk over to the Delta check in area and use a kiosk to check in for our flight. Boarding passes printed.

As we walk back to the hotel, that sense of excitement bubbles up even more. 

We talk about how we, as very experienced and savvy travellers have worked our way through the maze of hoops required, both by the US and Bonaire. How does the average traveller do this? Can she/he get through the maze? 

All four items on the list are checked off and we are a go for US immigration and boarding a flight tomorrow. Bonaire here we come!

Both of us sleep poorly, of course. Up at 5:30, shower, dress and skedaddle. The airport is deserted. We cruise through security, but the regulators get the bags pulled off to the side. Fortunately the woman checking the bags was very knowledgeable and efficient and we are on our way again. Regulator hoses. With all our paperwork in hand, we walk to US Immigration. The fellow there didn’t want to see our paper work and didn’t even look at our passports. He said something about the camera he took our pictures with and some other cues, and that we posed no threat, no need for further questioning. A note: when we checked in, we filled out an electronic attestation stating that we had done a COVID test and tested negative. Done!

Boardings the airplane. Again no checking of documents except passports and boarding passes. We did however have to pull down our masks so the gate agent could compare the passport photo to real life.

I am sitting on the airplane writing this waiting for takeoff for Minneapolis. We are doing this! Here we go!

As we approach Minneapolis, the flight attendant makes an announcement that we have to go through customs and immigration again and that passports and COVID test results will be checked. We get out our documents and are ready as we deplane, but nothing, nada, zip. No customs,  no immigration, no document check. Such confusion, but we sure are prepared!

The flight from Minneapolis to Atlanta was standard travel.

Although it is 7:00 pm local time when we arrive in Atlanta, we decide to first go to check in at the Atlanta Airport Marriott Gateway Hotel and then go check in at the Delta kiosks, just like we did in Calgary, before we have supper. Boy are we glad we decide that. Unknown to us, there are two terminals, one domestic (Hartfield) and one international (Jackson) quite a distance apart. We ride a shuttle from the domestic terminal to the international terminal, which takes about 20 minutes. So we know we have to add that amount of time onto the travel time for the morning. We check in with no issues and then walk outside the terminal to catch the shuttle again and the lineup is HUGE. There must have been multiple flights arrive. So we queue up and people watch while waiting our turn. Fortunately, it doesn’t take too long before we are on a bus and on our way back to the domestic terminal and our hotel. 

In the morning we navigate the route to the international terminal, pass through security and get to the concourse just fine. We want to buy lunch for the flight as there is no food provided on the plane. Only three of the six food vendors in the food court are operating and the all the long lineups snake through the tables. Murray adds himself to the McDonald’s snake and I add to the much shorter Bistro snake. I am at the counter when Murray comes over to tell me they are boarding our flight, he has bailed on the McDonald’s snake and I tell him I have to have food! I move through the line as quick as I can and we scurry to the gate. Most of the passengers are on the plane already, but as we settle into our seats, more people keep coming down the aisle, so we are not the last on the plane. The plane is only about three quarters full.

Our departure time ticks by and then an announcement is made informing us the pilot is not on the plane and is enroute to the airport and we are to deplane. The plane will get too hot in the hour plus that we have to wait for the pilot. So, off we get. Travel mode.

Four hours later we are landing in Bonaire. The system they have there is amazing. Sort of like herding sheep. “Do you have a 24 hr COVID test? Go that way. Do you have a 72 hr COVID test? Go over there.” We went over there. Our Health Declaration form was checked and we were sent over to a line up outside a small building. The jovial fellow at the door was letting us in one at a time. This is the antigen test site and, boy, did they process us quickly. We are sent to a waiting area under a tent awning to await our results. The results came online and with not so robust WIFI it was an exercise in patience. As the folks at the front of the plane started to get results, we knew our turn was coming, and soon my results were up and then Murray’s. I had to take screen shots on my iPad to save them in order to show them to a lady so we could exit the waiting area and go through immigration. We cruise through immigration and right by all the people waiting for their luggage. It pays to go carry on.

We are in Bonaire and WE DID IT! The excitement is allowed to boil over now!

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One Week Out and Counting

We are a week out from flying the coop. I, all of a sudden, feel unprepared. We haven’t travelled internationally for 19 months and I am not sure I remember what and how to pack. And that is why we use a packing list! I can robotically pull stuff out of its hiding place and pile it on the floor. One pile for Debbie and one for Murray.

packing for a trip to Bonaire
Our packing room!

Today’s chore is checking my underwater camera gear. I pull out my cheat notes to make sure the camera is set up properly for under the waves. When we were in Indonesia in October, 2019, one of our fellow divers helped me adjust my camera settings to take “better” shots. This will be the first time I seriously use these settings, so I will see how it goes. When we returned from that trip, I purchased a fancy camera light and it will have its initiation on this trip. I also set it up to make sure I have all the pieces and remember how to do it. Between the new camera settings and the new light, the first few days of picture taking may see a lot of blanched fish!

We had some fun last week when we found out Westjet/Delta had cancelled our flight from Calgary to Atlanta. They arbitrarily, and rather humorously, booked us onto a flight from Toronto to Atlanta. What! A two hour wait on hold and a chat with a Delta agent got that sorted out. We are flying out of Calgary once again, but have to stop in Minneapolis on the way to Atlanta. (mmmmm….I should check our flights on the Delta website again to make sure nothing else is changed…..good, nothing changed!)

PCR tests for COVID, hotels, health declarations are all being checked off our list. If we have done this properly we should effortlessly cruise through the ride down to Bonaire. We are getting our packing skills toned up and in a week we will reintroduce our “travel mode” and spidey sense to our cooped up minds and bodies.

Bonaire packing

We are now three sleeps from flying off and we are looking more prepared. Carry on bags packed, backpack bags mostly packed with just the last minute stuff, like credit cards, to pack. I find I am not as excited as I usually am. I think once we get past the PCR test (with a negative result), checked in at the Calgary airport and past US immigration, it will feel more like we are going to get there. For now, I will again check our packing list, the row of ducks and try not to fret.

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Breakin’ Out

We have been planning our freedom from about the four week mark of our prison term. The parole board has not been too cooperative so we have engineered our own escape. Last week the virtual hacksaw blade in the birthday cake was delivered in the form of the second dose of vaccine. We both got our second jab and that is the spring board. Fifteen months of incarceration and we can now dream of a few hours at sea level minus 60 feet.  Four days after dose two we were on the web booking airplane tickets to paradise. I had kept in touch with our favorite Bonaire hideout and the nice lady there had penciled us in for the entire month of July.

We did the research and we know what we need to do to get from home to Bonaire. We’re quite sure we have a bullet proof system. The trip requires we overnight in the States. We will need a negative Covid test to enter the USA for the night.  The next morning we board a plane for Bonaire. They require a negative test within 72 hours of arrival. The same test should cover that. An antigen test upon arrival in Bonaire and we will be ready to dive for a month. H e l l o fish!

The first trip that we had to cancel last March was a dive trip to Roatan. Here is hoping that this trip starts the ball rolling again and we can continue to pick up on all the trips we have dropped. We might have to substitute the ones to more ‘adventurous’ locales for ones to destinations less exotic but for sure we will be able to travel.

Coming home shouldn’t be any harder than going. It is just a matter of getting a negative test, boarding the plane and staying out of trouble until we land in Canada. Two days after we booked our flights, the Canadian Government announced for all those who have been fully vaccinated it is likely the requirement to isolate for 3 days in government chosen hotels costing the spritely sum of $2000 will be dropped. They said this is expected to be announced the first part of July. We do not arrive home until August. That would a great relief as spending time in a hotel in Calgary is not my idea of the ultimate end to a vacation.

Things change daily so we will have to keep abreast of the constantly moving benchmarks and how we can accomplish what we need to do to get to Bonaire but we are confident we can make it. It honestly feels quite strange to be setting up to be on the road again when it was really commonplace for us prior to March 2020.

Packing will start soon as there is a lot to sort out.

Ciao for now.

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Homeward Bound from the Coast

September 20, 2020

When we wake up, we realize we have slept 11 hours. We never do that!

We are meeting R&D at the Okanagan Falls Provincial Park Campground, so our drive is not very long. Once past Keremeos and all its fruit and vegetable stands, we turn north on 3A and then turn onto Twin Lakes Road and the White Lake Road to do some exploring. The road is windy and there is no traffic. The area is semi desert scrub land and very peaceful.

We come across a group of young people lined up to start a roller cross country ski race. They all look very serious at the start.

After turning onto Green Lake Road, what do we come across? Green Lake! This area is a cycling route and we spy a few groups of cyclists, some of them chugging up a ridiculous series of hills. Green Lake Road dumps us out to civilization right at the campground we are meeting at. Except the gates are closed and the lady sitting at the gate informs us that the campground is closed for the day for a special event. I phone my sister and we decide to meet at the North Okanagan Lake Provincial Park Campground way up on Okanagan Lake. We get there to find that the campground closed for the season that day. The four of us end up camped at the South Okanagan Lake Provincial Park Campground and it was good that we got there when we did as we managed to get sites right next to the water and the campground filled up pretty good through the day.

After lunch we launch our kayaks from our campsites and paddle south on the lake. Oh, my body is tired! And I am having trouble going in a straight line again. My sister and I paddle and chat and paddle and chat some more. We are not in a hurry and enjoy being on the water.

Okanagan Lake

It is nice to be in the warm Okanagan again. We are drying out.

September 21, 2020

Skaha Lake

The four paddlers drive to Penticton to try Skaha Lake. Penticton is very quiet as it is off season for them. We paddle the lake south and the water is glassy. D wants to be back on shore by about noon, so we dock and eat our lunch in the park. As we are eating the wind picks up, as it does there, and we are glad we timed things as we did. The kite surfers start to gather on the beach, they like the wind.

Skaha Lake

We walk the concrete “boardwalk” on the Okanagan Lake side of Penticton as today it is not the windy side. After a good long walk, we head back to the campground and laze and visit the rest of the day away.

September 22, 2020

Time to really go home now. We pack up and get on the road early as we want to make Fernie today. We drive from orchards to grazing lands to forest. The tiny town of Greenwood is a cool place. It was a coal mining town and their unique buildings are well kept. The trees are not changing colour yet in this area.

We stop at Christina Lake for lunch, sitting right by the lake. The lake is warm, clear, long and quiet. There is a large beach that must get busy on a hot summer day. There are cottages/houses along the lake and in the town, the community looks like a vibrant one.

We are once again on Hwy 3 and it is very scenic with low mountains, lush valleys, wonderful vistas and funky towns. As we drive further east, we notice the leaves are starting to turn to yellow and orange.

As we approach Fernie, the Rockies appear showing off their alpine terrain. We camp at the Mt Fernie Provincial Park Campground. The campground is well laid out with large secluded sites. There are shower houses (although we heard it was all cold water!). Biking and hiking are easily accessible.

It is going to be a cold night tonight so we prepare by taking toques and extra PJs into the tent to sleep in.

September 23, 2020

Fernie is a funky place with personality. The old buildings are preserved and contain a variety of boutique shops. It would be a great place to stop and wander around in.

The trees on the slopes are dappled shades of yellow, orange and green. Winter is coming.

Just past Crowsnest, there are 5 small mining communities all in a row. One of these is Frank, where the massive land slide occurred in the early 20th century. Check out the Frank Slide Interpretive Centre if you go through that area. The remnants of the slide are still along the road and it is mind boggling thinking about the amount of rock that came down.

After Burmis, we point the car north on Hwy 22 (the Cowboy Trail). The road goes in a straight line for forever and runs through grazing ranch lands filled with cows and wheat fields. It is rolling land with outcrops of trees and very little population. The population increases as we approach Longview, Black Diamond and Bragg Creek until we are on the edge of Calgary’s metropolis.

It has been 2 1/2 weeks since we left and in that time the harvest has started and the trees are losing their leaves. The land is a checkerboard of colours and patterns.

It is a fast drive north and before we know it we are pulling into our driveway. Home again.

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Kayak Touring – Clothing

Here is a detailed list of the clothing I took on our 6 day (5 night) kayak tour. We were given a 10 litre dry bag as a “day bag” and a 20 litre dry bag as a “camp bag”. Once we got the hang of squishing all the air out of the bags, they condensed pretty good.

KAYAKING CLOTHES

Teva Sandals – Can get wet, great soles for walking on oyster shells. Keen Sandals would also be good. Both guides had them.

Technical Crop Pants – I would take longish shorts next time, don’t take a belt.

Icebreaker Undies – My biggest coup was to take a pair for each day. I would start each day with dry undies under my damp pants.

Rashguard Shirt – 2 – I started wearing just one, but had to add the second one for warmth. I use rashguards for their sun blocking ability.

Light Jacket – I wore a light jacket for warmth, but it was getting wet each day. Next time, I would find a more water repellent jacket.

Wide Brimmed Hat – Geeky hat plus a glasses strap as I was wearing my prescription sunglasses on the water.

Paddling Gloves – When we started to paddled in the spring, when it was chilly, I was wearing an old pair of full neoprene scuba diving gloves. I continued to wear them all summer and on this trip.

Fuzzy – This was an older fuzzy that went in my day bag so I could don it at lunch time to stay warm. Had this one in case it got wet so my camp warm layer stayed dry.

Gortex Jacket – Since it was chilly, I carried my camp jacket in my day bag to wear at lunch to help stay warm. If the weather was hotter, it would have stayed in my camp bag.

Toque – I also started carrying my camp toque in my day bag for lunchtime warmth.

CAMP CLOTHES

Hiking Shoes – I brought along an old pair of hiking shoes. Runners would also be an option.

Wool Socks – 2 pair – 1 to wear everyday and a spare in case the first pair got wet.

Technical Pants – 2 pair – 1 to wear everyday and a spare in case the first pair got wet.

Lightweight Long Johns and Top – Because I get cold easy, I never camp without long johns. I wore these every day!

Icebreaker Long Sleeved Tops – 2 – 1 to wear everyday and a spare in case the first got wet.

Synthetic Down Jacket – I wore this everyday in camp!

Toque and Mitts – Toque got worn everyday. Mitts were not worn, but might have been if it had rained hard.

Gortex Jacket – This was my rain jacket but I wore it everyday for warmth.

Gortex Rain Pants – In case it rained. Were not worn.

PJs – I originally thought to wear my long underwear to sleep in but it was too hot, so I brought a light T shirt and slept in the T shirt and undies. In hindsight, I wish I had a light pair of PJ pants to wear as a clammy sleeping bag doesn’t feel nice on bare legs.

Large Ziploc Bag – This is to put wet undies and any other wet clothes in to keep them separate.

Debbie at Teakerne Arm Campsite
Debbie at the Teakerne Arm Campsite (Photo by Richard Romer of Island Romer Adventures)

I brought my heavy down sleeping bag, which I found just a tad warm. But I would prefer to be too warm than cold. Next time I may test my lightweight bag before and take that one and wear heavier PJs.

I always take a few extra clothes in case of getting wet. For this trip I had one pair of extra socks, pants and a long sleeved shirt. I think this was reasonable and not too much extra. It would not be good to have a wet and cold Debbie.

For you ladies who are wondering how to work the undies. I would put dry undies on when we got to the campsite each day, under my dry camp clothes. I would sleep in my undies and wear them the next day under my kayak clothes. They would then be soaked and I would change them at the next campsite.

Murray’s clothes were very similar to mine. He also took extra socks, pants and a shirt. He did not have a light kayaking jacket. He only had 1 pair of kayak underwear and 1 pair of camp underwear, so he put on wet underwear every morning. Yikes!

We paired down our toiletries to the bare minimum. We had a first aid kit that would remedy the basic hurts and sicknesses.

You will find a condensed version of this list under the menu item “Packing Lists” under Kayak Touring.

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Kayak Tour – Impressions and Final Words

DEBBIE

I will do this again. I enjoyed the peace and quiet and solitude out on the water and at the remote campsites. The possibility of seeing wildlife, especially whales, is a draw for me. To watch birds swooping in the sky or sitting in the sun, or seals warming themselves on the rocks, or sea lions chomping on their lunch brings me such awe that I need to see it all again.

Kayak touring is far easier for me than backpacking with a 30 lb pack on my back. I would do the kayak tour in a double kayak next time though. I will leave my ego at home and team up with Murray. John tells us that it is easier in a double (doing half the work) and the distances covered can be farther. He says the distances to get into Desolation Sound are farther each day than we kayaked on this tour. Okay, a double it is.

It is worth paying more for experienced and high quality guides. Both John (Footprint BC) and Richard (Island Romer Adventures) are experienced, high quality and enthusiastic guides. I wouldn’t hesitate to use either again.

Finally, if you are thinking about doing a kayak tour on the West Coast, do it!

Paddling on the West Coast of BC
(Photo by Richard Romer of Island Romer Adventures)

MURRAY

Smoke, it is the first thing we noticed. Not a standard condition, but when we arrive the winds are from the south and the fires across the border are raging. The smoke obscures our views, then invades our nostrils.

Nature, one of the first things I note after we leave the marina is we are smack dab in the middle of a natural environment. There are very few signs of civilization.

Scenic, even with the smoke the scenery is awesome. The west coast rain forest meets the oceans edge on every island and islet we pass. It is sooo green.

Paddling, the repetitive motion instills a sense of Zen. There is only the moment I am in. Spilish as the paddle enters the water, splash, drip, drip, as the paddle exits the water.

Seclusion, the farther we paddle the less humanity we run into. We meet very few, the occasional motor launch passes at a distance, sometimes a fisher might go by, and only couple of times did we come across other kayakers.

Animals, there are so many and they are not as shy as the land animals we might be more familiar with. Seals, I knew they lived in the strait but there are so many, two eyes just above the surface of the water checking us out as we pass. Sea Lions, curious beasts, and so big. Birds by the bucket load, I’m not a birder and don’t know what varieties we pass each day but I am constantly amazed at how a flock can maneuver in unison with no observed crashes and so close to the waters surface. AND whales, we spent an afternoon watching as humpback after humpback passed by us perched on the elevated view point of our campsite.

Campsites, they are amazing. Location, location, location. They are very basic, the most important aspect being a spot to land the floating craft. Once on land nearby is an open area with a few flatish spots big enough to pitch a tent to sleep. There are a enough logs or rocks about to fashion a kitchen. Find another rock to sit on and we have a home for the night.

Quiet, the most striking attribute of the area we traveled. My ears ring and it is loud. The saying is “the silence is deafening” and it is so true. Any noise is amplified by the lack of other ambient sounds.

I too will try to return. There is the little matter of Toby Inlet and a trip into an area much less visited then the one we just traversed. Barring the advent of smoky skies, heading in a more north-easterly direction has been added to the bucket list.

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Homeward Bound from the Coast

September 18, 2020

We leave John and Richard and head to the Saltery Bay Ferry. We want to be on the Sunshine Coast for the night as we want to take the ferry over to Horseshoe Bay in the morning. We have a date to meet up with my sister and brother in law in the Okanagan again and need to be there on the 20th.

We just miss a ferry and end up waiting until the 7:05 pm ferry. Ouch. That will put us into Sechelt about 9:00. Oh well, it’s an adventure, right!

It’s pitch black and we are driving around Porpoise Bay Provincial Park Campground and there is not one available campsite. We resign ourselves to maybe staying in a motel, so leave there and drive through Sechelt. We cannot find one decent motel! And our standards are not high! Where is all the accommodation?

We drive south and stop at Roberts Creek Campground. Ah, that is the reason why Porpoise Bay is full. Roberts Creek Campground is shut down, closed, blocked off. What?

With nothing else to do we drive toward Gibsons, talking about options. Sleeping in the car – nope, ditch camping – would rather not, motel – hopefully, private campground – ok. By the time we get to Gibsons it is nearing 10:00. We drive the main street and, lo!, there is a motel office with its lights on and a woman sitting at the desk! We turn, I jump out and after a few minutes and $113, we have a room to sleep in. (This was our only motel stay in two and a half weeks of camping. We also ate our only restaurant/take out food this night as we did not have groceries to prepare some sort of supper.)

It was good to have a real shower. We threw our kayaking clothes in the bottom of the tub and they rinsed while we both showered. Boy were they dirty. Even though they will be wet for a few days, they won’t be salty and smelly.

We crash by midnight and we both find the room too hot and the bed too soft, but boy we are clean!

September 19, 2020

We are both awake by 6:00 am. The ferry is at 8:40 and the lady at the motel office suggested we get there by at least 7:30 as it is Saturday and the ferry does get busy. We just get up, pack up and take off. We are at the ferry shortly after 7:00 and are second in the line of folks without reservations. By 7:40, the terminal is packed. On a Saturday morning? Where is everyone going?

We sail across and drive from Horseshoe Bay to Chilliwack on the Saturday, not so Indy-500 this time. Everyone must still be sleeping! We go into the Chilliwack Safeway to stock up on groceries for the next 4 days. After the aloneness of the water, the grocery store is a zoo! We grab what we need and scram outta there.

We want to make is as far east as we reasonably can today. Mostly to get somewhere warm. We stop at one of the Manning Park Campgrounds for lunch. Manning Park looks like a great area, but it is higher in elevation, so we do not want to deal with the cold night and morning.

As we set up our meager lunch, an uninvited guest tries to sidle in for his share. Nonchalant like, turning his head this way and that, trying not to be too obvious. But he is. We tell him “We don’t have anything for him”, but he just won’t take our word. Murray escorts him across the road a couple of times, but he keeps coming back. The nerve! As we finish our lunch, Murray accidentally drops a couple of Cheezies. Our uninvited guest can’t wait to gobble them up and doesn’t even wait for me to move away. Lucky raven!

The Hope to Princeton drive along Hwy 3 is scenic, with a twisty, turny road and lots of up and down. There are now many kms of 4 lane highway and passing lanes so the driving is less stressful.

As we drive east, we talk a lot about our paddle strokes. I am eager to try my new stroke in my own kayak on Okanagan Lake. I used a rudder the whole time on the tour and also want to see if I can paddle in a straight line once again on top of using my new stroke.

After Princeton there is a campground called Stemwinder Provincial Park Campground, which is our destination. Once we get there and are looking for a site, we realize that the highway is right beside the campground and the noise, especially at night, will be bothersome. We would stay there in a crunch, but it is still only about 3:00, so we backtrack to where we saw another sign.

We turn onto the Old Hedley Road between Princeton and Keremeos. It is across the river from the highway so the noise is not so noticeable. There are two Recreation Areas along the road and they are pretty much empty. A recreation areas have green signs, as opposed to blue for provincial parks, are more rustic with only outhouses, no water, no garbage cans and a $15 camp fee (which was never collected!). Perfect!

Recreation Area on Old Hedley Road, Princeton, BC
Recreation Area on Old Hedley Road

We set up our camp, hang our wet laundry on a line, make supper and then collapse. We retire when it gets dark and allow ourselves to fall asleep early.

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Kayak Tour – Martin Islands to Desolation Sound Resort (19 kms)

Murray gets up early today. He sits at the picnic bench and it is silent around him. No people, no animals, no lapping water on the shore, just quiet. His ears ring with the silence and it’s deafening. The darkness soon abates slightly and forms become more distinct. Trees, shoreline, tents, driftwood.

The smoke is less, but the moisture hangs heavy in the air to make the distant view obscure. Soon the sun will dispense with the fog.

Malaspina Inlet

Our first task once on the water is to paddle about 4 km across open water to a point on the east shore of the Malaspina Peninsula. Once there, it is snack and rest time, of course. We then head down the Malaspina Inlet along the coast spying out seals, sea lions (two of which follow us for quite awhile), kelp beds and kelp crabs. The crabs are bright orange and just below the surface. We pass a bald eagle perched on the shore dining on crab with a turkey vulture right behind trying to sneak up on him to get the remnants.

Malaspina Inlet
Kelp Crab

Our intrepid guides lead on towards the end of our tour. They take us by “The Aquarium” where there is a myriad of sea life under the water. We dawdle, not wanting to go too fast and have it all be over.

Malaspina Inlet
Our lunch spot

As we get deeper into the inlet, we see more civilization – cabins on the shore, boat traffic, oyster farms and the voices of other kayakers that carry across the water from the other side of the arm. We have become so used to the sounds of sea lions, whales and birds that human speech is an intrusion.

Malaspina Inlet
Malaspina Inlet

We finally see the Okeover Wharf and know that we are almost at the end of our tour. We glide into the boat launch at the Desolation Sound Resort, get high fives and set our feet back on the mainland.

Malaspina Inlet
Our final landing spot

While Murray, John and Richard go retrieve the two SUVs left in Lund, I schlepp gear up the boat launch. That is alot of gear! We unpack, organize and pack the car up. We thank our fantastic guides, John from Footprint BC and Richard from Island Romer Adventures and tell them we will be back to do Desolation Sound and Toba Inlet. We are on our way.

Malaspina Inlet
Thank you to our wonderful guides, John and Richard
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Kayak Tour – Teakerne Arm to Martin Islands (16 km)

Today’s paddle takes us back out the Arm, south along the coast of West Redonda Island, past Refuge Cove to the Martin Islands. Again the water is glassy smooth. Richard just shakes his head and once again says, “I have never seen it this smooth.” I think he has been saying his every day since day 2. And each time explain the weather gods want to make it a good trip for me ensuring I come back, so they are making the ocean calm.

Teakerne Arm
Teakerne Arm

We get startled as we see a buck deer swimming across from a tiny island to West Redonda. It’s surprising to be reminded deer swim! We see more seals and a sea lion enjoying a fish lunch. Peering into the water on the island’s edge we see sea stars, anemones and cucumbers.

West Redonda Island

The zen of paddling takes over, just like road riding or climbing up a mountain when back country skiing. The mind wanders, the body just moves, and we paddle.

West Redonda Island

When we land on Martin Island, actually it is on an isthmas connecting the two islands, we are amazed we arrive early, 2:00pm. After all the longer paddles, this 16 km one feels easy, and short. The campsite is well used, as indicated by all the “decorations”. There are swings, permanent structures, sign posts, benches, a fire pit and a picnic table. We wait to see if anyone else shows up.

Martin Islands
Martin Islands Sign Post

The quiet continues. The only sounds are cawing ravens, buzzing flies and wasps, crickets and the occasional splash of water from a sea lion, seal or fish. Is there a world beyond this island? World, what world?

The sun is shining through the haze and it is spreading warmth so we lay out our mats, sleeping bags and kayaking clothes. They do dry some and it will be nice to not climb into a clammy sleeping bag tonight!

Martin Islands
Loafing

We loaf and wander and watch John and Richard float an errant tree away from the beach. Then we watch the tree float closer and farther and closer and then far enough away that it won’t block the kayak loading zone. We cheer. The world is FAR away!

The kayaks are stored above the high tide line and are tethered together and to a log, just in case.

Martin Islands
Secured Kayaks

After supper we gather around the fire pit where John has started our only fire on the tour. We stare into the depths of orange flame and before I know it, my eyes are drooping. I made it to 9:00 this time!

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