Sossusvlei to Swakopmund

We are on the road by 9:00 this morning as we have a six hour drive to Swakopmund. The terrain changes slowly from scrub to grassland to desert sand back to scrub back to sand. We drive through three passes, each with their own personality. A number of ostriches are spotted far into the fields. 

There is a large lagoon near Wallis Bay that we stop at to look at the flamingos. A school group of young children are making their way deeper into the lagoon on the sand and, unfortunately, scare away the birds, who move deeper into the lagoon. 

Walvis Bay

We are now close to the Atlantic Ocean and the breeze is chilly compared to the Sossusvlei desert area. There

We arrive in Swakopmund around 3:00, right on schedule, check into our hotel and go for a walk. The town is oddly set up with extra wide streets and avenues. There is no traffic and hardly any people, a ghost town almost. We think that it turns into a busy place in the summer when everyone heads to the coast to get away from the heat, but right now now it is eerie. 

Tomorrow, another long drive north towards the Skeleton Coast.

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Sossusvlei

Today, we go out with Lucas, one of the guides from the Hoodia Desert Lodge. We are headed to Sossusvlei, Deadvlei, the Namib Desert and Big Daddy.

Our first stop is an area beside the road where we are going to look at small desert life. Lucas guides us through the sand and around the brush pointing out animal tracks. We spy jackal, rabbit, gecko, scorpion and the Dancing White Lady Spider tracks. Lucas finds the spider’s lair and starts digging, suddenly out pops this huge spider! We all jump back!

Dancing White Lady Spider
Dancing White Lady Spider


One of our goals on this trip is to climb Big Daddy. Big Daddy is the tallest sand dune in this part of the Namib Desert. The other four people are not going to climb, but Murray and I are determined. We each take three bottles of water, a Coke and a power bar and head out. The distances are large here, it took us almost 20 minutes to get to the bottom of the dune. And then we start to climb. I follow Murray, right in his footsteps, as it is easier to use an existing footprint. It takes us just over an hour to get to the top. I think many people we meet are surprised to find two “old” people climbing this dune. Our backcountry ski climbing has paid off on this climb. The fun part is walking down the steep slope into Deadlei. Step, squeak, slide, step, squeak, slide. Lucas meets us down on the Deadlei, he has been keeping an eye on us as we climb and descend.

Big Daddy
On the top of Big Daddy

Lunch, set table with ceramic dinner ware, cutlery and wine glasses, is under a tree at a picnic area. An oryx wanders close and is slightly put out as we are in his afternoon nap spot. Our companions for the day are M&O from Switzerland and C&N from England. We all get along wonderfully and enjoy our lunch in the dessert.

Deadvlei
Deadvlei

After a quick stop at a canyon we head back to the lodge. We are all happy, tired and in desperate need of showers. It was a great day!

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On the Road in Namibia!

Day One on the road! Debbie’s driving first as we leave Windhoek behind and travel south on a paved road. Two lane road and the speed limit is 120kph although we are advised to keep it at 100 kph, which I do. We drive the pavement for about an hour, turn west onto a gravel road and switch drivers. We are told that there are many driving accidents involving tourist and speed, so we are to keep our speed down to 70 kph on the gravel. Both of us endeavour to keep our speed down, but it does creep up and then we correct to a slower pace. The gravel roads here are very wide and well compacted, although there are sections of corrugated gravel.

Fences run along side the road and we eventually spy a cow and then lots of sheep. The scrub land looks rather inhospitable, but it seems the livestock can find enough to eat. We are now able to recognize baboons at a 100 paces and we see groups of them. After awhile we spot our first Springbok! 

The Pass
Spreetshoogte Pass

Murray is driving as we are headed over Spreetshoogte Pass. We’ve have be warned the drive down the pass is very steep. We arrive at the top of the pass without climbing too much as we were already high up. The vista is expansive. Fortunately the road down is laid with paving stones and not gravel, which makes the descent easier. It is very steep in places but Murray drives it with practised ease.

Down on the flats we spy some Oryx. They are pretty animals with great long straight horns. It is exciting to start to see wildlife that we are finding ourselves. A trick we have learned scuba diving is that we look for movement. Whether under water or on the plains, that movement will indicate wildlife.

We trade drivers again after a quick stop in Solitaire for a snack of peanut butter, crackers and bread, and continue on our way. It isn’t long before we arrive at the Hoodia Desert Lodge, tucked away off the road. It is a paradise with a welcoming host. We are in our own separate “chalet” with large bedroom, indoor bathroom and outdoor shower. 

Namibia
Namibia Sunset
Namibia Sunset

At 6:00 pm two other couples and us are taken to a nearby small hill to watch the sunset. It’s supposed to be romantic! Murray and Debbie romantic! Hah! Anyway, each couple has their own private space with chairs, table, drinks and snacks. Murray and I talk photography and shoot interesting angles until the sun starts to set, then we shoot sunsets. It was a cute couple of hours and we got some interesting shots.

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Walking Windhoek

Namibia is about 824,000 km2, slightly larger than Alberta, with a population of about half of Alberta’s. Windhoek, the capital has a population of about a half million, which makes it the perfect size to acclimate in.

Windhoek, Namibia

The folks at the Olive Grove Guesthouse, a quiet and comfortable small boutique hotel, where we are spending our first two nights in Namibia, advise against walking at night. The sun goes down around 7:00, so we figure if we walk to a restaurant for an early supper and be back by 7:00, we will be good. We walk to Joe’s Beerhouse, a local institution, and have pizza and a lovely chat with a couple from Michigan. We were all surprised how much in common we had and talked hiking, skiing and traveling.

After a very long sleep and breakfast, we go out for a walk to downtown to see the local sights and buy a few groceries for the road. The first thing we notice is that it is very hilly here, which our unused legs complain about right from the start. Folks we meet on the sidewalk are friendly and offer a Goodmorning or Hello. The official language is English here, although Oshawambo,  Afrikaans and German are spoken more often.

Windhoek, Namibia

As we walk about in downtown, we notice local fellows with cameras and wonder what there schtick is. We eventually see one taking photos of a local mom and two kids dressed for church. Money exchanged hands so he took photos and perhaps sent them to her phone for a few bucks. Very entrepreneurial.

Seems the local place to grab lunch, supper or a snack is the Hungry Lion, a KFC like fast food place. We walk by three Hungry Lion’s on our tour and when a light lunch is needed, we pop into one by the grocery store and order a chicken thigh and fries from a very happy young woman dancing as she worked. We learned some terminology too…..we were asked “Swipe or cash?”. Swipe? Oh, credit card! 

Windhoek, Namibia

We find the local craft market, Namibia Craft Centre. We are impressed with the quality and variety of the crafts. We spy artwork and fabric that are possibilities, but we won’t buy anything just yet. We will look along our route and if we don’t find what we want, we have time when we get back to Windhoek for serious shopping.

We enjoy interacting with the locals and chat to the cashiers in the grocery store and a young fellow helping set up for a religious graduation outside Parliament House. 

We finish our walk just when the heat of the day starts and are now sitting in the shade and slight breeze of the Olive Grove veranda. Tomorrow we head out on the road towards the sand dunes.

Windhoek, Namibia
Veranda at the Olive Grove Guesthouse
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Travelling from Edmonton to Windhoek

As I sit on a hotel bed at the end of a very long day I ponder the fact that we have gone from airport to flying metal tube to airport to flying metal tube to airport to flying metal tube to airport to hotel, with the only breath of fresh air about 3 minutes in the rain in Frankfurt boarding our plane the old fashioned way, up the stairs off the tarmack. After reaching the Cairo airport hotel and settling in, we take a walk around the grounds in the sunshine and fresh air.

We have turned on the “spidey sense”, that hair on the back of the neck, hang on to your purse, always one eye on our surroundings, watch for nefarious folks thing. We are approached by a number of touts inside the Cairo airport asking about taxis and hotels. Our reply is always No Thank You and keep walking.

We almost got caught. Egypt e-visas can be purchased on line, which we did. On the website we were able to pick multiple entry or single entry and we had to pick multiple as we are going enter Egypt twice on this trip. We had paper copies of the visas, and I also have digital copies on my iPad. The officer at immigration took the e-visa papers, checked them and then put them in her pile. As we walk away, and are 20 feet away, Murray suddenly realizes that we need those e-visa papers to get into Egypt in about three weeks. Yikes! We scurry back through immigration and ask the officer for our papers back. And she says “NO, it is good for only one time. You have to go to the embassy to get another visa. And I say “No, these are multiple entry visas and are good to use again. She says NO again. And I say, “The website did not say anything like what you are saying. These are good for multiple entries and we would like the papers back.” She gave them back to us with a bit of a harrumph attached. Ooh dodged that one (but we do have the digital copies so we may have been okay).

I emailed our friends, L&R, who are meeting us in Cairo to warn them and L said that the website got taken down Oct 1 and now folks have to go in person to the Embassy in Ottawa to get Egypt visas. Boy, am I glad we got ours in September. 

We spend the night in the Marriott Le Meridien Cairo Airport Hotel. The next evening it is off to Namibia, via Doha. Why Doha? After flying Lion Air, we decided to only fly airlines with good safety ratings and the most direct route from Cairo to Windhoek, Namibia is to fly through Johannesburg with Egyptair. Except Egyptair has a very low safety record. We opt to a slightly longer route and fly Qatar Air (very high safety record) through Doha. 

If you ever get a chance, fly Qatar Air. Their service is exceptional. And fly through the Doha airport. It is a huge, modern and very busy facility more like a shopping mall than an airport. Designer label stores galore, if that is your thing. It is huge. There are tons of people there and still there are gaps in the traffic.They have their processes down to a science. They started boarding our flight before the official boarding time.

As we descend into Windhoek, I am relieved this journey is over. I have watched six movies since Edmonton and gotten way less sleep than I require. No airplanes for about 16 days!

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Travel Mode

Murray and I have a saying and it is “Travel Mode”. We tell each other this during a trip, especially at the start of a long trip. It means we can handle anything that happens, we can deal with it calmly, diplomatically and respectfully. Travel is sometimes about overcoming obstacles and any obstacle can be hurdled with the right attitude. Everything will work out in the end. Our trip to Indonesia, using Lion Air, is a good example of using travel mode.

I didn’t sleep well last night, as is usual for me the night before an alarm has to go off at a time like 4:50am. When it does go off we are both awake already so we jump out of bed, shower, dress, cinch down bags and cross off lists and still have 10 minutes to spare before the taxi arrives.

Out first hurdle is the key in the front door gets stuck. Got that resolved. Second hurdle, which isn’t really a hurdle, is a very cautious cab driver, overly cautious I would say. Drove me crazy! But we still got to the airport in the allotted time. Cruised through check-in and security.

It is amazing how once we get to the gate, all my anxiety just drops away. We are on our way and it’s travel mode now. 

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The Ethics of Travel, part two

Below is the second half of Murray’s post from 2012.

In 2001 the United Nations adopted a resolution drafted by the World Tourist Organization entitled ‘The Global Code of Ethics for Tourism’.  It outlines 10 points that, if implemented, will aid tourism while minimizing negative impacts.

Article 1; Tourism’s contribution to mutual understanding and respect between peoples and societies, explains that both tourist and host should respect each other and their cultural biases.

Article 2; Tourism as a vehicle for individual and collective fulfillment, encourages people to use tourism to enrich their lives and not exploit others while fulfilling that pursuit.

Article 3; Tourism, a factor of sustainable development, implores those involved to take steps to ensure that any tourism has as small an impact as possible. Not only on the environment but also on the culture of the area.

Article 4; Tourism, a user of the cultural heritage of mankind and a contributor to its enhancement, speaks to the idea that history and cultural ikons should be available to all, that the host area take responsibility to maintain the ikons and that part of the proceeds obtained from the tourism industry be available to help with maintaining said ikons.

Article 5; Tourism, a beneficial activity for host countries and communities, indicates that the local population should be involved in and benefit from the tourism activities that take place in their locale.

Article 6; Obligations of stakeholders in tourism development, outlines the obligations of those that participate in tourism activities.

Article 7; Right to tourism, promotes the idea of universally accessible tourism.

Article 8; Liberty of tourist movements, encourages the powers that be to make it as easy as possible for tourists to move within any given country as well as from country to country.

Article 9; Rights of the workers and entrepreneurs in the tourism industry, implores that all those that are employed within the tourist industry be respected and treated with respect.

Article 10; Implementation of the principles of the Global Code of Ethics for Tourism, puts forth the proposition that both host and tourist buy into the Code and do their best to comply with its intentions.

This framework is still relevant in 2023. If you are interested, the following link is a brochure that has the exact wording of the resolution and the articles that comprise “The Global Code of Ethics for Tourism.”

There are as many reasons for travel as there are travelers. It is up to each of us to get out of our excursions what we are searching for, but we cannot do so at a cost to others. We share the world and we should do so respecting all aspects of the environment and our neighbors.

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Murray’s Africa Packing

I had a special request from an over packer to put my packing list in the blog. I stopped packing my rubber boots in case it rained in 1988. They sit in the basement pining to leave the continent on a jet plane.

My first trip abroad I had two shoulder type bags. I lugged them around Australia and vowed not to do that again. From that trip on I strive to pack carry-on only. Then the ridiculous airline restrictions came into effect and everyone was learning how to pack less. If the lines at the airline check in counter are any indication very few got the hang of it.

Taking just carry-on not only means you don’t have to lug oversized bags around, it means you can get your ticket at the kiosk and go directly to the security line, completely bypassing the check in line. An extra ½ hours sleep by my calculations.

The theory is you only take what you are going to wear for sure. There is a backpackers saying “If you need it, and you don’t have it, you don’t need it”. It is sort of the same when traveling, except most of the time you are somewhere where you can buy what you really need. This means there is no panic if you leave your rain jacket at home, umbrellas are available everywhere, except Edmonton maybe.

So here is the list

Carry-on Bag

One pair of linen pants. People that live in hot climates wear linen clothing.

One pair tech fibre shorts

Flip Flops for wearing around hotels

2 pair of underwear

2 pair of socks. One shoe top height for when I wear shorts. One regular pair.

One Merino wool T shirt. Good for cool or hot weather.

One collared sports shirt. Restaurant wear.

Two T shirts.

A Bathing suit

Assorted drugs. Old peoples drugs, malaria pills, drugs for illness.

First Aid kit

Clothes line in a large pill bottle that I have wrapped with duct tape.

Head lamp

Shaving kit, tooth brush etc.

T.P.

Cloth shopping bag to carry in lieu of a, dead give away for a tourist, backpack. Try as I might it really is impossible to look like a local.

Wide brim Tilley hat

A pair of socks I will wear to climb the sand dunes, san shoes. They will be left in Namibia.

Carry-on Bag

Backpack

Camera

Laptop

Noise cancelling headphones

Spare batteries

Liquids

2 pairs of binoculars

Camera battery charger

Glasses

Sleep masks, ear plugs

Water filter bottle

Backpack

Airplane Clothes

A pair of underwear with a hole that I will discard after a couple of days. This goes for any clothes that might be on their last legs. They are not coming home.

Long pants with zip off legs

Long sleeve Merino wool shirt. Airplanes are cold and it will be good for evenings.

A water resistant jacket. Good in case it rains and it will be cold when we get home so an extra layer will be good.

Socks

The only pair of shoes I will take.

Passport neck safe

Money belt

Belt

Neither of my bags are full but I will have more than enough to get me through 5 weeks in Africa. We will do some washing in the shower and might even splurge and send our clothes out if we have enough time in one place. Local laundry establishments are very inexpensive and it is like a new start to the trip with clean clothes.

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Packing – Notes for our Africa Trip

I discussed the clothes I am taking to Africa, but I haven’t mentioned any of the miscellaneous stuff one has to take. Here are a few random thoughts.

Murray and I each have a soft sided carry on bag for our clothes etc. I wear mine as a backpack, whereas Murray mostly carries his as a shoulder bag. We also each have a “purse”. Mine is a courier bag, and for this trip, Murray is taking a day pack. The camera he is taking is beefier than normal and it does not fit into his courier bag easily, so a day pack it is. I wear my courier bag as a cross body bag, and if necessary, put it on and then put on my backpack. Cumbersome but works in unfamiliar crowds and places.

We carry a first aid kit with us. This one is a bit more robust than one for the Caribbean. It is mostly over the counter meds for colds, allergies, fever and aches, plus items for small injuries. There are a number of prescription drugs in our kit – Malarone (required for malaria), upper respiratory, gastro and urinary tract infections. We are very careful about using the prescriptions and try real hard not to.

We both take small headlamps for flashlights. In areas where there is no street lighting, a small flashlight is a great help. It can also be used for emergencies if the power goes out in a hotel.

We take a Ziplock bag full of an assortment of Ziplock bags, two green garbage bags and two kitchen catcher size bags. Ziplock bags come in very handy for carrying receipts, snacks, cameras, all sorts of items. I read on someone’s blog that the sand gets in everything, even in a vehicle, in Namibia, so the green garbage bags are for putting our bags in to keep them sand free.

A few items that are specific to this trip are Binoculars (animal viewing), Sink Stopper, Toilet Paper (one small roll in a ziplock) and a Clothesline (for hand washing clothes).

We take a small bottle of Tide liquid detergent for hand washing clothes. The best way to wash, say two pairs of pants and two shirts, is to throw them in the bottom of the shower, dribble some detergent over the clothes, get into the shower and shower – letting the shampoo and then soap run over the clothes. Stomping on them is good too. Then rinse the clothes in the running water and wring them out. Once everyone has showered, lay the damp towel on the floor, lay the wet clothes on the towel, roll up the towel and stomp on it up and down the length of the roll. This gets out most of the excess moisture. Hang to dry! We also wash smaller loads in the bathroom sink but always roll in a towel and stomp.

The Packing List we print off for each trip is a compilation of a number of specific lists from the blog list. I have compiled them on one excel spreadsheet. The specific lists are:

Clothing

Important Travel Documents

First Aid

Toiletries

Other Stuff

I hope these comments help with your packing to a far off destination. This is not a complete accounting of what is in my bag. If you have questions, send me a Reply to this post or use the Contact page. Happy packing!

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The Ethics of Travel, revisited

Murray originally posted this in 2012 and we thought it was appropriate to revisit it as we are headed to areas very different than where we live.

Several years ago Dive Training Magazine (July 1999) published Ten Guidelines for Travelers. The author is unknown. After I read them I passed them on to my traveling friends for perusal. I think they are great and read them from time to time to make sure that I am on track with the reasons for visiting other places.

1. Do not expect to find things to be like at home. You left home to find things different.

2. Do not take anything too seriously. A carefree mind is vital to a good vacation.

3. Do not let other travelers get on your nerves. You paid good money to enjoy yourself.

4. Do not forget: you are a representative of your country at all times.

5. Try not to worry, because he or she who worries will have no fun. Remember that few things in life are fatal.

6. Know where your passport is at all times because a traveler without a passport is traveler without a country.

7. As a stranger in a strange land, be prepared to do as its people do.

8. Do not judge all people of a country by the one person who has given you trouble.

9. Learn how to say thank you in the language of the country you’re visiting. A sincere thank you, along with a smile, doubles the value of any tip you may give.

10. Remember that you are a guest and those travelers who treat their host with respect will be treated likewise.

These are excellent guidelines and we will endeavor to be faithful to them.

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