Havelock, Andaman Islands Hotel, Dive Shop and Restaurant Reviews

Posted on November 15, 2011 by debbie

Emerald Gecko

We arrived at the Emerald Gecko after spending our last couple of weeks in quite nice hotels and were quite taken back when we were shown to our room.  The Bamboo Lodge was, at first sight, one step above camping. As our stay progressed the place grew on us and in the end we were very happy with the accommodations.

Emerald Gecko – upstairs bed

With a little maintenance and TLC the Emerald Gecko could be a very large step above its budget resort competitors but, alas, as most things in India, maintenance is not a high priority. The grounds and buildings are still in acceptable condition, I only hope the owners do not let it get too run down, it would be a great loss.

Emerald Gecko – view from our balcony towards the water

Beach 5 is a very good location. It is not too far to walk to the market in Village 3 (about 1/2 hr), and it is easy to catch an auto-rickshaw if you so desire, and it is towards the end of the tourist zone so you do not get the hub-bub of the places closer to town. The hotel site is somewhat distanced from the road and this also helps with the idyllic peace and quiet.

The on site restaurant is the best one we tried on the island. Blackbeard’s Bistro (see review below) served outstanding food for a very reasonable price and the beach house construction and decor was perfect for the setting.

The staff was very friendly and helpful, but they were not in our face. If we asked for assistance they were more than willing to help. We were diving every day, unable to get to the ferry ticket office at the only times one could prebook ferry tickets (9am to noon) and we wanted to be on the 9am ferry the day we left, so the desk manager arranged (for a slight fee of 150Rs per ticket) to have our advanced tickets purchased for us. A service well worth the $3. Also I do not know if it is standard practice to make up the rooms on a daily basis, but all we had to do was ask and we had clean sheets and towels and the room was given the once over.

As we traveled around Havelock and took note of the other “resorts”, we began to think that even though the Gecko is a bit rough it is among the best places to stay on the island. The thing that stands out is that most of the units are exposed to the beach. Our lodge was 50M from the beach and there was nothing but a few palm trees between us and the sand. Most of the resorts, fancy ones included, were close to the road and the ocean was not visible from the rooms. Weird for a tropical paradise. Our beach access also allowed the ocean breeze to pass through our 2nd floor living area making for a pleasant place to sit on the balcony and let the time pass slowly. We often walked along the road to the market and the breeze was non-existent. I therefore think that the resorts adjacent to the road were missing out on this feature of natural air conditioning.

Emerald Gecko – desk area

The layout of the lodge was very good. The entrance and washroom were on the lower floor and the living/sleeping space was on the 2nd level. The washroom being on the ground level, down one very steep set of stairs from the sleeping area, was a bit dangerous when nature called mid sleep, but we both survived the week. The small work desk allowed us to do the daily things that needed doing like setting up the dive camera each evening and filling out our trip journal, and as I mention the balcony was a great place to pass the time as well as a place to dry out our beach wear. The bed, as simple as it was, was very comfortable and we slept deeply until the sunrise woke us gently at about 5:30.

Emerald Gecko – balcony

 

Emerald Gecko – sink in the ground floor bathroom

Although we are old (in our 50’s) and can afford the up grade to one of the fancier resorts on the island, I would definitely put the Emerald Gecko high on our list of places to stay if we were to return Havelock Island. We had a relaxing and wonderful stay.

Andaman Bubbles

Andaman Bubbles

We had contacted Andaman Bubbles in advance and liked the communications we had. The day we arrived on the island we headed straight to the dive shop to set up diving for the next day. We met with Jonathon. He was a happy, enthusiastic guy and without any hesitation we booked 5 days of diving over the next week.

There was an Australian couple that were booked to dive the same days we were and since Andaman Bubbles keeps their groups small and assigns only 4 divers per dive master, the 4 of us were designated as a group.

The overall experience was very good, but there was a couple of things that could use some improvement. First is more an Havelock Island dive industry deficiency rather than an Andaman Bubbles deficiency. The boats that are used to access the dive sites are traditional local boats called ‘dunghis’. I did not see all of the boats from all of the dive shops but the 1/2 dozen I did see were all in need of repair. The ‘Rock n Rolla’, our boat for 5 days was no different. There were several floor boards that were not secure and part of the gunnel that we rolled into the water from was non existent. The boat needed a general overhaul, but it did get us out to the dive sites and back for 5 days. The other thing about those boats that needs to be considered is the motor. They are outfitted with ancient diesel tractor motors that do not have a muffler system. These are extremely noisy and smelly. I’m quite sure a better solution could be had. Second, is proper customer service; one of the days we headed out in our dunghis for a day’s diving, one of the Andaman Bubbles owners left in the fancy speed boat for a day long joyride. From my perspective customer service dictates that the customer should benefit from the best the company has to offer and the worker, and especially the owner should make do with what is remaining. If the speed boat was going out that day, the customer should have been on it, not the owner. (The reason I know it was a joyride is because I was chatting with the young lady that he was taking out to see the sites and she said the ride had no special purpose.)

With those two items out of the way. The rest of our diving experience was great. The dives sites chosen were very good and we enjoyed every dive. The diving in the Andamans is not for the faint of heart. From my view it was quite difficult and technical. After our first dive the dive master felt that the four of us were capable of tackling the more advanced dive sites and he did say that less experienced divers can be accommodated in different areas but the places we went had 1 1/2 meter swells and very strong currents. The terrain and fish were worth every second of the difficulties getting into and out of the water.

The staff at the dive shop was excellent. Right from the day we contacted them by email until the last day when we settled up the bill. The office staff was always helpful and they made themselves available early in the morning till late evening. Each day unraveled as they had outlined and the agenda was easy to follow. Each day when we arrived at the dive shop on the beach the gear we rented was at the staging area ready to be checked and loaded on the boat. All of the day’s tanks were rigged with the regs and BCDs and on the boat. The dive master was ready to go and all we had to do was climb in and we were off. The dive master was quite good and kept us on a long leash, letting us do our own diving while making sure none of us disappeared. He and the two fellows on the boat were also a great help with equipment when it came time to exit the water in challenging conditions.

As this was not a dive specific trip, we took a minimal amount of dive gear with us, only computers and a prescription mask. We had to rent all of the other gear. The gear at Andaman Bubbles is good gear and is in good shape. It all functioned quite well during our whole trip. They have safety sausages and whistles in every BCD, I think a wise addition considering the currents we experienced.

We think that Andaman Bubbles is one very short step away from being a world class operation and that would be the boats, but don’t let the dunghis stop you from booking your trip to the Andamans or from booking with Andaman Bubbles. We had a great time and we’re quite sure the folks there treated us no different than any of their other customers. You will have a spectacular time diving with them.

Clownfish Restaurant

The Clownfish is attached to the Andaman Bubbles dive shop on Beach 5. It opens early so divers can get breakfast before heading out on morning dives. We ate there 5 out of 6 mornings, once for lunch and once for dinner. The layout is good, it offers benches for those that prefer an off the ground orientation and low tables and cushions if that be your thing. The menu is western type food and is the same for lunch and dinner; the breakfast menu is varied with fruit, pancakes and eggs any style.

The staff is very friendly and remains in the background unless needed. The food is excellent, especially the home made bread. The prices are reasonable.

We really liked the place. The only reason we did not eat there more was because there were so many other restaurants to try. Go there at least once.

Café del Mar

The Café del Mar is the on site restaurant at the Barefoot Scuba Resort. It is totally nondescript – wooden table and benches on a concrete slab with a metal roof.  It is a very busy place, the folks staying at the resort must utilize the restaurant as a meeting/social area.

Food is ordered at the front desk and is brought to your table. When you go to pay, you do so at the desk. The staff is quite “flat”. They are not rude but are certainly not enthusiastic and in fact are droll about taking the order, delivering your food and accepting the cash.

The prices are good and in line with other restaurants on the island. The menu is vast and they offer a large variety of dishes. The food is quite ordinary but is more than edible and arrives at the table hot.

Anju Coco Resto

This place is easily accessible on the east side of the main road between Beaches 3 and 5. It is a nondescript little restaurant. The staff is very friendly. Even though it was busy the owner had everything under control and had time to chat about his home state of Kashmir.

We placed our order and Murray was able to make a slight change to one of the standard meals for no extra charge. They were also very accommodating and made some changes to deal with Debbie’s food issues. The food came quickly and hot. The prices were in line with other restaurants on the island.

Blackbeard’s Bistro

We stayed at the Emerald Gecko and Blackbeard’s is the resort’s restaurant. It was by far our favorite place to eat on Havelock Island. The food was exceptional and the prices were good.

The bistro does not serve alcohol but that affected us little as we do not drink. It was a bit disappointing to our dive mates when they came to our hotel for dinner as they wished to have bottle of beer to cap the day, but they survived to dive another day.

Blackbeard’s is in sight of the beach and the décor is appropriate to that end. It has a sand floor and rough wooden tables and seating.  The openings are such that the ocean breeze provides natural air conditioning.

The menu changes daily and is written on a blackboard when it has been firmed up. The theme is seafood with a couple of other items for those that do not relish fish. The waiter meets you at the board and will take your order there. The items, as written, include the main dish and the side dishes but we found there is some room to move on the side dishes. They substituted naan bread for the potatoes shown and they were a great help in dealing with Debbie’s food issues.

The staff was very friendly and efficient. They remained in the background until you needed help and then they were there.

The food was exceptional. It was prepared rather quickly and came to the table as ordered and hot. The prices were very reasonable.

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Kolkata Hotel and Restaurant Reviews

Posted on November 14, 2011 by debbie

Bodhi Tree Boutique Guest House

Bodhi Tree Boutique Guest House – Kalachakra Garden Room

An oasis in the middle of chaos. That describes the Bodhi Tree Boutique Guesthouse. What a great place. It is in south Kolkata in Swiss Park. Off on a side street it is quiet in a city of constant noise.  It is also an art gallery. There is a metro station within an easy walk that will take you into the center of Kolkata.

Bodhi Tree Boutique Guest House -Kalachakra  Garden Room

The room was well appointed, clean and had loads of personality. The room was filled with artwork and ornate furniture. The AC was a life saver after a very hot day walking around the city.

The hotel is really small, so you get to know the staff and other guests almost immediately. The young man that is the manager, Santu Dutta, has been nothing but polite and helpful every time we have talked. The two fellows that seem to be in attendance 24/7 and do the breakfast have been most accommodating while trying to help out finding food that is within Debbie’s  dietary repertoire.

The one downside to the hotel is that the front gate/door is padlocked all the time.  We understand the necessity of this practice, but if there happened to be a fire, getting out the front door may be an issue.

We have been lucky the last few trips we have made and found a couple of ‘funky’ places to stay. The Bondi Tree definitely qualifies as one of those ‘funky’ places.

Blue Sky Cafe

The Blue Sky is located on Sutter Street, the epicentre of the tourist area in Kolkata. It is easily located. There is a constant turnover of patrons and it does not seem to  ever be empty. Most of the guests are tourists. It has a relaxed atmosphere. The menu is varied with a lot of standard western and Indian dishes. Our experience was that the Indian food was very good and it came to the table hot. The prices were pretty standard. It is worth a visit and would make a good fallback eatery.

Amber/Essence Restaurant

It was lunch time and we were wandering around Kolkata, we looked at our photo copied pages of a travel guide to see what restaurant possibilities were in the area. The Amber was only a few blocks away so we thought we would give it a try. We knew the place was a bit fancy for our needs when a door man met us and let us in. Oh well, we’re hungry and here now, so let’s give it a try.

First, the AC temperature was set really low and we damn near froze while our shirts dried, but after a while we acclimatized and it was no colder than a fall day in Canada. The staff was very attentive, we had at least 2 waiters at our beck and call. They took care of our every need and in a prompt manner – it was almost too much.

We ordered one of our stock lunches and it came to the table hot. The food was pretty average. It was not presented in any fancy fashion and was quite ordinary in taste. The staff again got points as they did serve us from the hot dishes.

In the end we ended up paying about twice what we had been paying in less fancier restaurants. We do not think the extra attention by the staff and the ordinary food was worth the premium we paid.

Bhojohari Manna

The restaurant itself was not too busy. It seemed to have a big take out business. The whole time we were at our seats only one other couple sat down, but several people dropped in, picked up food, paid and left.

The biggest problem we had was that we looked at the menu written on the chalkboard, chosen what we wanted to order and when the waiter came to take the order he had to explain that only the items that had a check mark beside them were available that day.  We presume the available items changed on a daily basis and it was easier to leave the entire list of possibilities on the chalk board and add ticks for what they had rather than redo the board each day. Minor inconvenience and lesson learned.

Anyway, once we matched our requests with what was available the food was cooked as we waited. It arrived at our table piping hot and was tasty, if not abit too spicy. The prices were slightly less than average. The decor left a little to be desired, it was rather tattered actually, but we were there to eat and we accomplished our goal.

Dustarkhwan

When we travel, we usually eat at the restaurants recommended in travel books. In a big city where the number of choices is overwhelming, it takes away some of the guess work. We had our photocopied list with us and had chosen a restaurant close to where we were. We were not far from the Dustarkhwan restaurant; it looked good so we thought we would give it a try.

It was a very good gamble. It is located in a slightly sketchy neighbourhood but the restaurant is great. The time was about 12:30, and it had just opened for the day. The place already had a few customers. The room had AC and was a good reprieve from the sweltering heat. We were greeted by a very congenial waiter that was efficient but not at all pushy. Between his marginal English and our less that marginal use of the few words we had learned in India we got a very good meal – fried dal, tikka chicken kabobs, and rice. The meal was very tasty, hot and one of the best meals we had in Kolkata. The price was about the average we had been paying.

Bayleaf

We had eaten at the Amber/Essence earlier and noticed the Bayleaf. It looked like an interesting place, so when our path took us near we decided to eat lunch there.

We liked the eatery. It was in reasonably good repair and was air conditioned. The staff was nice and attentive. The waiter went across the street to purchase a Coke Zero for Debbie. The menu is varied. The food arrived hot and was very good. The prices are average for food in Kolkata.

Port Lounge (Kolkata Airport, International Terminal)

With a 10 hour layover and no desire to brave the downtown crowds or heat, we decided to hang out at the airport. Not much to do there and we were trying to vary our experiences, so we ate dinner at the dining lounge on the second floor of the international terminal.

We were the only ones in the restaurant so the waiter had lots of time to attend to us. The menu was Indian and Chinese food. Several of the items on the menu were not available so we had to alter our order a couple of times. When the food arrived it was hot, but was quite ordinary and definitely not in the running for the best meal we ate in Kolkata.

The waiter was good and he did his best to work with what he had. I think the restaurant was trying to be a bit upscale – when the waiter delivered the food he served it. For an airport restaurant, that seemed a bit of overkill.

The cost of the food, on the menu, was not out of line but when the bill came there was tax and some other charge (maybe a service charge) added  so the final cost of the meal was by far the most expensive meal we ate in India, and was definitely not worth the extra.

We would not go back, and would suggest that unless you are in dire straights, you would do better to frequent the kiosks on the lower level of the terminal.

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Carry On Liquid Replacements

Posted on November 13, 2011 by debbie

When we were preparing for our trip to India and Bhutan, we had read that the Kolkata Airport was a stickler for liquids in carry on luggage (by only one tourist, mind you). This encouraged us to search for non-liquid replacements for some of our liquids.  We had reduced our liquids quite a bit, but we still had some.  I had decided that we would try going through with some liquids and if they got taken away, we had replacements or we would buy new.  As it happened, the security in both the International and Domestic airports in Kolkata didn’t even bat an eye about liquids.  We did not even have to take them out of our carry on bags, like we have to in Canada, the US and Europe.  False alarm!

We used four non-liquid products extensively in India and Bhutan.  Here are our thoughts on these products.

Laundry Detergent Leaves

We took the Laundry Wash, but not the Shampoo, as shown below.  I found that the leaves did not do what I would consider a stellar job.  I felt I had to use too many leaves in a sink of water in order to feel I got the clothes clean.  For lightly soiled clothes, this might work fine, but for the heavy dirt we encountered in a third world country, this product didn’t do its job. We took a laundry bar given to me from a swimming friend and it worked quite well.  The bar was called “Sunlight”, but I do not know where it came from (my friend is well traveled) so I will have to investigate to find more.

Laundry Detergent Leaves

Sunscreen Stick

I was disappointed with this stick.  Even in hot hot temperatures, the sunscreen would not spread or rub into the skin.  I would be left with lines of sunscreen on my legs etc from where I applied it.  It would not rub into my face and I had this white pallor.  It may protect really well like this, but I would rather not look like a ghoul.

Sunscreen Stick

Toothpowder

Murray used this toothpowder and loved it. He said it cleaned his teeth better than toothpaste. He had to put very little on his wet toothbrush, so this small bottle would last about a year.  He said it tasted pretty good – he had the minty favour. I did not try it as I have sensitive teeth and my Sensodyne made it through security.

Tooth Powder

Shampoo and Shaving Bars

We took both these bars, but only used the brownish one on the right – Tea Tree Shampoo.  It worked great for shampoo. My hair always felt clean afterwards, even after being in salt water.  We only used about half the bar in five weeks, using it only for shampooing (short haired people!).  I did not take conditioner and my hair was not as soft as it is at home.  But I can handle that not so soft feel for  five weeks.  We had brought a bar of Lux for washing our bodies. Murray tried to shave with the Tea Tree bar but his razor got too gummed up, so he switched to shaving with the Lux or some of the generic soaps from the hotels.  These worked just fine.

Shampoo and Shaving Bars

From our experiences on this trip, we will now travel with the toothpowder and the bar shampoo. We will have to investigate laundry soap and solid sunscreen a bit more to find other possibilities.

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Port Blair, Andaman Islands Hotel and Restaurant Reviews

Posted on November 12, 2011 by debbie

Hotel Shompen

The Hotel Shompen provides perfectly adequate accommodations. It is basic to the nth degree. The only problem is the lack of fire exits. Our room was located about as far away from the main stairs as could be and we only found the one set of exit stairs.

The hotel is centrally located and it is easy to get anywhere in town on foot. The rooms were very clean. We did have to find the attendants to get towels, but other than that, the basics were provided. There was AC that worked to cool the room in the evening. We shut it off after the room was cooled and relied on the fan to keep us comfortable during the night.

Our room faced the main street and it was quite noisy. That may have had something to do with the fireworks that were being set off to celebrate Diwali. It was quiet after 10 pm and we slept well. The bed was a bit on the hard side and if we had to spend more than one night there it may have been a problem, but for one night we did OK.

Our room was on the second level up, so climbing the stairs was a must as there was no elevator.  If you are not able to climb stairs, do not stay here.

The people that work there were nice, but spoke very little English. The man at the front desk was very polite and although we had booked an auto-rickshaw to get to the airport he offered us a ride. The room attendants were polite and were quick about getting us the towels we requested.

We would most definitely spend a transit night in the Shompen if we were to return to Port Blair.

Ananda Restaurant

We just arrived in Port Blair and were very hungry. We happened upon the Ananda Restaurant and dropped in. We sat in the AC section. It was very crowded with local people on their lunch break. A good sign. Even though several folks had finished their lunch and left during our stay, another group would walk in and take the first group’s place. Turnover was high, another good sign.

The menu had a typical range of Indian food and we were able to pick some of our favorites. The waiter was right there to take our order. The food came quick by Indian standards and was piping hot when it arrived.

The food was excellent and the price was good. We would recommend this restaurant to other travelers.

Ha O Restaurant

The restaurant is in the Sun Sea Resort. It is a rather boring place with little personality. The staff were attentive although we were the only patrons when we arrived. The food was only average and cost slightly more than the average restaurant. No major complaints, but no kudos either.

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Coming Soon………Photos

Posted on November 11, 2011 by debbie

Wangdu Festival

Murray and I brought home 3,800 pictures between the two of us.  Murray is working diligently paring the 3,800 down to about 1,000.  He is about 2/3 of the way through.

Once we get the 1,000, we will do another cut and then one more to come up with our “slideshow”.

Please be patient, photos are coming soon………….

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Bhutan Hotel Reviews

Posted on November 10, 2011 by debbie

Hotel Druk, Phuentsholing

Hotel Druk, Phuentsholing

Hotel Druk in Phuentsholing was a very classy place and it set a high standard. The reception staff was efficient, if a little bit formal, but nice enough. The room was well maintained and immaculate. The beds were extremely comfortable.  AC was much appreciated. There was a flat screen TV (didn’t turn on), WIFI for a charge and bathroom goodies (shampoo, slippers, shoe polish  etc).  The restaurant staff went a long way to help find Debbie food she could eat.

Tenzingling Hotel, Paro

Tenzingling Hotel, Paro

The Tenzingling Hotel, in Paro, is also on the higher end. It is a bit remote from town but we were so bagged each night that going out in the evening was out of the question. Although simply furnished the room was very spacious, which made for a pleasant stay. It was very clean. There was a TV and free WIFI.  Hot water was limited so we showered quickly. The staff was doting and took very good care of us. It was very quiet in the evening which made for good sleep. The heat didn’t work in our room, but there were extra comforters, so we were toasty warm. The buffet was average but different enough each night to make the meals interesting.

Tenzingling Hotel, Paro

Dochula Resort, Dochula Pass

View from Dochula Resort

The Dochula Resort is slightly tattered but still a nice place to stay. The setting is outstanding and waking up to a view of the Himalayas is not to be missed. There is a pair of large high powered binoculars for guests to use for a closer view. The bed was a bit hard but we slept well. The food was only OK, this is an area where the hotel could improve. The rooms were clean. The corridors are reverberant and the noise in the hall travels quite well. The staff was super – extremely nice and polite.

Hotel Gakling, Phobjikha Valley near Gangtey

Hotel Gakling, Gangtey – fixing the “heating system”

The guest house Hotel Gakiling in the Phobjikha Valley was the most ‘rustic’ place we stayed. We had been given the heads up so we were prepared. Our room was in the main building and was warm and well built, whereas our traveling companions’ room was in the back in another building and it was extremely rustic, with an outdoorish bathroom and they woke up to an 11 C chill in their room. There was no hot water and we were warned not to plug in anything as the power surges killed another tourist’s laptop. The staff was very nice and not so formal as other resorts, this was pleasant – it is not necessary to be stuffy and do a good job at guest service. They served the best food (tofu and soya beans) we had eaten to that point in the tour, and the communal atmosphere of the dining/meeting room was great for meeting other travelers and swapping experiences and stories. A new hotel was being built in behind the current one. The valley was most serene and for the sake of a little roughing it, this hotel was worth one night.

Hotel Gakiling, Gangtey – the most rustic bathroom we encountered

 Mountain Lodge, Jakar

Mountain Lodge, Jakar

The Mountain Lodge in Jakar, was overall, our favourite place. The biggest issue was the availability of hot water. If you did not have a shower at exactly the right time, and that time varied each day, having a hot shower was not possible. The water was at least not cold so we didn’t have too much to complain about. The wood stove heaters could be a problem in the middle of winter but it was October and we did not have any issues with a cold room. The hotel was very quiet; we were able to sleep through the night easily. The internet at the hotel was about the most consistent we experienced on the trip. The food was excellent and the staff dealt with Debbie’s food allergies very well. The rooms (small, but manageable) were cleaned each day and although it was not necessary, we were provided with clean towels. We found the staff at this hotel to be particularly attentive. The three young people that worked the dining area at this hotel were exceptional.

Mountain Lodge, Jakar

 Tashi Ninjay Guest House, Trongsa

Tashi Ninjay Guest House, Trongsa

The best feature of the Tashi Ninjay Guest House, in Trongsa, is the view, which was worth the price of admission. The one issue was there was no fire exit on the floor we were on.  If a fire blocked the main exit, the windows were far too high to jump from and the exit at the end of the hall had no stair to the ground. The rooms were quite ordinary, but provided all the essentials. The food was, in our opinion, substandard and needs work. Again, the view made this hotel worth a stay.

 Hotel Y.T., Punakha

Hotel Y.T., Punakha

In the Y.T. Hotel in Punakha, we were boarded in a palatial suite – luck of the draw. Again the view was outstanding. We had enough room to hold a party. Our trip mates were not quite so lucky and occupied a much smaller room with a view onto an adjacent wall. Although the beds were twin beds, each was big enough to serve as a double. The rooms were very clean, including the bathroom.  The owner took special interest in the restaurant and floated from table to table greeting the guests personally. The food was noticeably good. The owner and restaurant staff were very good to make Debbie a special breakfast for the morning we hiked near the Dochula Pass.

Hotel Y.T., Punakha – sitting room in our “suite”

 Hotel Phuntsho Pelri, Thimpu

Hotel Phuntsho Pelri, Thimpu

The Hotel Phuntsho Pelri in Thimpu, is a high end hotel, that we found a bit pretentious. The shortcomings; first, they charge way too much for the use of the internet, to use the business centre, the charge was 6 Nu per minute, the internet café 50M from the front entrance charges 1 Nu per minute; second, the bathroom was not as clean as it could be, for a high class hotel it should be immaculate; third, our bed was super hard, it was by far the hardest bed we experienced during our stay in Bhutan, that said our travel companions said they had an overly soft bed. On the good side, it is centrally located and everything we needed during our 3 days in Thimpu was very handy. The rooms were well appointed; the furniture was appropriate and nice. Even though the hotel was located in the shopping area and there was a ‘club’ adjacent, it was very quiet after 10pm and we slept well. The heat worked and we used it for an hour each evening to take the chill out of the air before we went to sleep. There was more than ample hot water for our showers and we quite enjoyed the luxury while it was available. The restaurant was excellent. The food was good and the head waiter was extremely conscientious. He was diligent in finding food for Debbie and when our travel mate, R, was feeling ill and did not show up for dinner, the waiter put together a meal of bland food and took it up to R’s room so he could at least try to eat something. That action was far beyond anything we expected.

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Kalimpong Hotel and Restaurant Reviews

Posted on November 8, 2011 by debbie

Windsongs

We found Windsongs on the internet before we left for India. It looked and sounded interesting, so we contacted them and ended up prebooking the room. The rate was $60 per night for one of the 2 rooms, a bit expensive for India, but although Windsongs has only 2 rooms and a small chalet, it is 5 star quality.

We left Darjeeling and after the long ride arrived in Kalimpong hot and tired. It took a short while for the taxi driver to locate the place but we eventually ended up at the end of the driveway. Windsongs is on mile 8 on the main road into Kalimpong.

We found the lobby and met Subhadra, the owner, registered, and were shown to our room. We entered and OMG! It is clean, in fact it is immaculate, well appointed, the furniture is top quality, it is maintained, something unusual in the far east, it’s quiet, even though it is adjacent to the main road to Kalimpong  and we could not hear any road noise.

Windsongs

Windsongs

Windsongs

The view is to die for, perched on the side of the mountain slope the view is oriented down a long valley overlooking the Teesta River and on a clear morning you can see Mount Kanchenjunga. We thought we had died and gone to heaven.

 

Windsongs - Breakfast View

The older fellow that works as bellhop, server and just about everything else is great. He does not speak much English and we do not speak much Bengali or Hindi so our communication was minimal, but he worked tirelessly and seemed to be totally self motivated.

Subhadra was the perfect host, extremely polite, friendly and truly interested in us and our travels. She is a wealth of information on ‘what to do in Kalimpong’ and everyday things, like how to get around. Subhadra will have dinner made for you if you order it a day in advance. All the ingredients used are fresh and organic, straight from their own nursery and the meal is made to your specifications. We had an Indian dinner that was just great.

Windsongs only drawback is that it is slightly far from town, but then again most of the tourist things are not in the town itself. This is not an issue for those with a sense of adventure. The solution is to jump in a shared cab on the adjacent road and it will zip you into town for 10Rs ($0.25). There are plenty of taxis near the town center that will take you to places like the Dr. Graham’s School.

If you need a break from the intense pace of India, book a few days at the Windsongs.  Even if you are just passing through and get the chance, stay there, you’ll love it and think you are in heaven.

Windsongs - View from our balcony

 Fresh Bite Restaurant

A nondescript stair leads to the second floor and a not too visually appealing restaurant with a handful of tables. We got seated in an alcove that had a nice cross breeze on a very hot day; that was relief in itself. The menu was pretty standard for an Indian restaurant with some American type food to round it out. The staff was very nice and took our order quite quickly. The food was cooked as we waited, always good in places with sketchy refrigeration. Rice and Chili Chicken arrived at the table hot. The meal was tasty and we ate for about 300Rs ($6.00), which was about what we spent at lunch for most of our trip to India.

King Thai Restaurant

Upstairs in the mall adjacent to the shared taxi drop off. It was hard to find. The place is rather ordinary but is decorated to the Thai theme. The overall cleanliness was only OK but the tabletops were very clean. The waiter was very attentive and catered to our needs. We ordered honey chicken, rice and vegetables. The food came to the table piping hot and was very good. The price was average.

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Darjeeling Hotel and Restaurant Reviews

Posted on November 7, 2011 by debbie

Dekeling Hotel

The Dekeling Hotel is a simple hotel and it seems like it is half way between a home stay and a hostel.  The hotel is centrally located and most of the things you would care to do are easily accessible. Our room faced west and we did not have any road noise at all. We also did not hear the dogs barking at night.

Dekeling Hotel with Dekevas Restaurant on Ground Level

The owner is super nice. She manages to spend time with all of the guests as they pass through and is very helpful with her knowledge of the city and surroundings. Her happy disposition is infectious and we left each morning on a positive note after spending time chatting with her. The staff was friendly and pleasant. The front desk staff was very helpful and answered all our questions.  They even loaned us an adapter and pointed us to where we could buy one.

There were two common areas in the hotel and they are a really nice feature. A hotel room can feel somewhat close and the sitting areas give one a place to lounge and read or type on the computer or meet with other travelers and swap tales. There is WIFI in the common area and a computer available for a small charge.

Dekeling Hotel - common area outside our room

Breakfast was hot and filling.  Eggs, toast, tea, oatmeal.  The food is supplied by the kitchen of the restaurant below the hotel, Dekevas.

There was one thing that really bothered us. There was no fire exit from the floor we were on. There is not a chance one could jump and survive from as high as we were and we would have felt much better if there had been an exit.

Dekeling Hotel - Room 7A

We think we ended up in the “hey this is our last room” room (room 7A) and it did have a couple of short comings. There were three windows in the room – the bathroom window which opened to the outside and two windows that faced interiors.  One non bathroom window lead onto an old exit stair that had been built in and in which people resided. We could hear every word they spoke, although we could not understand anything, we did not speak their language. Fortunately, these people went to bed as early as we did, so they did not keep us up. The other window faced one of the common areas.  Because the room is hard to ventilate, it had a dank smell which we managed to minimize by leaving the bathroom window and the entrance door open and let the air blow through for about an hour each day.

Dekeling Hotel - Room 7A

For the three days we were there, our beds did not get made or our towels changed, but this is no different at home so it wasn’t a great problem.

The price ($25 Can) was right so these were minor inconveniences.

We would stay in this hotel again but most likely request a different room. There is a wing that looks to be newer or refurbished – we would try a room in that wing.

 Dekevas Restaurant

We had just arrived in Darjeeling and had not eaten lunch so we were hungry and did not have any idea where to go. We stopped into Dekevas on a whim. It is in the same building as the Dekeling Hotel. It was good choice. The restaurant is very small (10 people) and it would be crowded, but it is quite a pleasant place. The waiter was very nice and since we were the only patrons at the time he was quite attentive. We ordered rice, fried momos, and chili chicken (excellent). The food came to the table hot (freshly made) and really hit the spot. We would definitely eat there again.

Glenary’s

We did not eat in the restaurant proper so I cannot comment on the upstairs section. We did buy pastries and eat breakfast in the coffee shop.

We stopped in the bakery looking for something sweet. The bon-bons we chose were quite dry and they may not have been made on site but instead were massed produced off site and bought for resale.  The baked goods tided us over, but we decided we would not go back to buy more.

The breakfast in the coffee shop was acceptable but very, very slow in coming. The place was not busy yet we waited about 30 mins. for a light breakfast. When it came it was good. The eggs were just as ordered and they had peanut butter (which just happens to be a favorite of Murray’s).  The price was well within the acceptable range.

The view from the tall windows was outstanding.

Hasty Tasty

A great vegetarian restaurant on the mall. We stopped in for lunch and thoroughly enjoyed the meal. There is no table service, you order at the front counter and pick up your food when your number is called. The kitchen is visible, the orders come in constantly and the cooking staff work hard and fast to keep up. The restaurant was very busy when we were there, which says alot. The food is all prepared as it is ordered so you can be sure it is fresh, but this does take time. There is a bus person constantly cleaning the tables which keeps the restaurant relatively tidy. We ate pakoras, a huge cheese dosa, and momos. The food is very good and hot, the service is excellent and it is inexpensive. We would definitely eat there again.

The Park Restaurant

The restaurant is easy to find, just down the road from the base of the mall. We walked in and it was reasonably busy, a good sign, the more people the greater the turn over in food. The waiter was very nice and efficient. The food came to our table quite quickly for India. The food was good, although the tandoori chicken was only warm and not hot. The rice was hot. The price was well within the acceptable range. Overall we liked the place and the food.

 Shangrila Restaurant

This more expensive restaurant was just off Chowrasta Square. The furnishings were upscale. The waiter was very attentive and trying hard to be upscale, but he spoke very little English.  The lights kept going off but we were not sure if it was a restaurant issue or an area issue.

We had Chicken Tikka (a tandoori chicken kebob), Singapore Noodles (it said rice noodles on the menu but we think they were wheat) and Naan Bread.  The noodles were hot and spicy.  The Naan was sweet.  This meal was very tasty and we enjoyed it.

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Debbie’s Clothing Comments

Posted on November 5, 2011 by debbie

I learn more and more about the clothing in my suitcase every time we go on a trip. Here are some comments from our trip to India and Bhutan.

I took 2 pair of pants – one linen and one convertible technical. I still maintain linen is much cooler, so those pants were worn almost exclusively in Kolkata and the Andamans where it was very hot. The technical pants were quick dry and that came in handy for when we washed clothing and when we got caught in the rain.  I wore these the whole time we were in Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Bhutan. I did find them hot. I did not use them as shorts, but it was good to have that option. If the weather in Bhutan had been rainy and cold, we would have been in trouble with only two pair of pants, especially if they both got wet and did not dry. I would have worn the technical pants during the day (they would have gotten wet) and then worn the linen pants in the evening for supper and hopefully the technical pants would have dried overnight. Fortunately, it only rained once and only for a short period of time.

I took 1 cotton T-shirt, 2 short sleeved wool shirts, 1 long sleeved wool shirt (long underwear actually), 1 long sleeved collared linen shirt and 1 fuzzie. I wore the cotton shirt to travel in initially and in Kolkata and the Andamans.  It handled the heat well. It got very dirty in Kolkata and I should have thrown it out, but I didn’t. In Bhutan, every morning, I started the day in a short sleeved wool shirt, the long sleeved wool shirt and my fuzzie ( it was cool in the hotels and outside).  As the day warmed up, I shed layers down to the short sleeved shirt.  By about 5 pm, it was getting cooler again, so I started putting the layers on again.  I wore one short sleeved wool shirt until it started to smell and then I changed shirts and washed the dirty one.  This system worked extremely well for me.  I felt that the long sleeved linen shirt was too heavy and hot.  I wished that I had brought one of my other lighter weight linen shirts which would have been better for Kolkata.  Plus a shirt like this would have supplied abit more coverage/modesty that the cotton T-shirt.  Next time.

I only wore my long underwear bottoms twice and it was to warm me up before I went to sleep at night.  If it had been colder in Bhutan, though, I would  have been wearing them all the time during the day, so I am glad I had them.

I wore my gortex jacket a handful of times in Bhutan when it was cold, and once when it rained.  Again, if it had been rainy and cold, I would have been wearing it all the time, so it was good to have it along.

I took a toque and a lightweight pair of gloves.  I wore both once, when we got up at 6 am to see the Himalayas. Again, good to have if the weather was cold.

Two bras, four pair of underwear, two pair of light socks and one pair of heavy socks worked well. I rotated the bras, underwear and light socks as they got dirty and got washed and I do not think I would want to go with any less.  The heavy socks came in handy a couple of times for cold feet. I took a very lightweight cotton T-shirt as a sleep shirt and that worked well – it got worn when I was cold and not worn where it was hot. I had a one piece swimsuit which got used in the Andamans. I had a long decorative scarf to wear to hide the bulge my neck safe created under my shirt. I also wore it Indian style to hide the strap of my purse lying across my chest between my boobs. The scarf came in very handy and was versatile – only comment would be to take silk, or a fabric that is not hot.

Pretty much every clothing item in my suitcase got used.  Some were there for insurance against cold and rainy weather and I am glad I had them along. My choices of clothing worked very well and they only item I would change is the long sleeved linen shirt. My learning is complete and logged for our next sojourn.

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Jet Lag

Posted on November 4, 2011 by debbie

It is the start of another bleary eyed day. The last 2 days have been brutal trying to switch our bodily clocks around.

I wake up at 3:30 am starving. I need an afternoon nap, but if I nap I don’t sleep.  I try to stay awake but am falling asleep in my chair at 7:00 pm. Make it stop!

India’s time is 12 hours different from Edmonton and that makes adjusting very difficult.  Some say that flying east is easier on your body than flying west. We started our trip flying east and had little trouble in India, we flew home west and recovering is a big problem.

Melatonin is supposed to help.  It is a natural hormone supplement that helps you fall asleep. I am starting to think that we should be taking this.

Last night I did resort to taking Sleepeeze – a mild sleeping pill obtained off the shelf.  I slept later and longer than the previous nights, and my head isn’t as foggy today as it has been.

It is also said that it takes 1 day to adjust for every time zone crossed.  So we are looking at 12 days to be fully recovered.  It is only day number 4 today, guess we have a few more days to go until we feel like ourselves again.

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