Port Moresby

We are flying Qantas to Port Moresby today. As we are trying to put our bags through the electronic bag drop, the system goes down and the conveyor belts and computers grind to a halt. The line behind us builds. It is twenty deep at 8 bag drop locations. After about 15 minutes with several Qantas staff running around, the belts start moving again and the staff reboot the computers. Since we were in mid transaction we have to wait until one of the fellows cancels our transaction before we re do it. Works really well once it gets going! We are glad we were in the front of that mess.

The flight to Port Moresby is filled with mostly men, travelling alone. Business folk, engineers, consultants, maybe trades folk, mostly Australians. This is a working person’s flight. We may be the only tourists on board, plus a few Papua New Guineans.

We deplane and start chatting with a couple of folks in the line at immigration. We learn quite a few important things about PNG. When Murray asked one of the fellows in line if Port Moresby was safe his answer was, “It’s fine, just stay in your own lane.” Mur thought that was odd so he questioned further, the answer “You do not walk around Port Moresby.” If you want to go somewhere, hire a driver to take you there. A woman that travels to PNG as a consultant works 2 weeks in, 2 weeks out, rents a one bedroom unit within a hotel complex. It is not safe to be alone in a usual apartment building, so she stays within a hotel complex where it is more secure. The hotel we are staying in got the thumbs up from the woman. She impressed upon us that folks are really friendly, but there are those that will try to steal your backpack. She reiterated “be careful” a number of times. 

We are staying at the Airways Hotel. Which, by the way, was started and owned by a Greek. It is very well appointed and tastefully decorated.  It has a section for hotel guests but also a section of what appears to be longer term stays and staff accommodation. In one part, there is a pool table/games room, big screen TV room, library, swimming pool and casino. 

The people we have met have been super friendly. They do work in the hospitality industry, but everyone has still been helpful, smiley and chatty. I am not sure very many tourists come to PNG so maybe we are different than the usual folks staying at the hotel for work. 

Tomorrow we take our last flight, Port Moresby to Alotau, a small town on the southern tip of the island. We have an extra day to decompress before we board the scuba dive liveaboard. Our plan is to walk around the town, but now we may rethink that, be careful our friend said. I could use a day by the pool!

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A Day in Brisbane

We arrive in Brisbane at 7:00 am. Our flight to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea, is the next morning so we have decided to spend the day in downtown Brisbane. The Queensland Art Gallery (QAG) and the Gallery of Modern Art are first on our list. The QAG is a maze, so we go left and go left again, and left some more until we wander through the myriad of exhibit halls. Lots of Australian and Aboriginal artists. A handful of masters, like Degas, Pissarro and Picasso. There are a number of huge floor to ceiling, entire wall installations that are wondrous.

Across the courtyard from the QAG is the Gallery of Modern Art. There is an exhibit on now called the Asia Pacific Triennial. Art from over 30 countries in the area is on display and gives one an insight of art from New Zealand, China, Timor-Leste and many island nations.

By now it is lunchtime so we walk to Queen Street Mall. We have lunch at Jimmy’s, an outdoor bar/coffeehouse/restaurant in the middle of the mall. Murray and I share Pad Thai, which is just enough lunch, and people watch.

After our rest, we decide to see if we can get on the City Cat, the water bus that plies the Brisbane River that runs through the city. For 50 cents we ride the water bus, first upstream and then downstream. It went a lot farther than we thought so we were on the boat for about 2 hours! We really like seeing cities from the water as it gives a whole different prespective. As the high rise office buildings and condos gave way to residential areas, we are amazed that there are still many single family residences right on the river. Some of the older houses look to be original “plantation” estates. 

It’s time to head back to the airport hotel and a half hour train ride has us back there. Supper, check in for our flight to Port Moresby the next day and then we try to stay awake. I pass out at 8:00pm, Murray by 8:30.

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Air Niugini

We are off to Papua New Guinea in a few days to go scuba diving. We have booked flights within PNG on Air Niugini, the national domestic and international air carrier of PNG. We have had experiences with other domestic airlines in Indonesia and The Philippines, some good and some ridiculous. Air Niugini is heading toward the ridiculous, but there is hope. Here is the story.

Once we arrive in Port Moresby, the capital of PNG, we have to fly to Alotau to meet the liveaboard dive boat. We have had one time change to that flight. So far, that flight is still good and is not causing us issues.

The liveaboard cruise ends in Rabaul, on the island of New Britain, east of the main island of PNG. We have to fly from Rabaul back to Port Moresby and then pick up our return flight to Brisbane. Our Qantas flight to Brisbane departs on April 6 at 1:15 pm, so we booked the Rabaul to Port Moresby flight for 7:00 am. Lots of time! Just a little insurance in case things go wrong. Well, here we go………

First email notification arrives telling us the flight number is changed and now leaves at 7:05 am. Okay.

Second email arrives telling us the flight is now leaving at 8:20 am. No issues, we can still make our connection.

Third email arrives telling us the flight is now leaving at 1:10 pm. WHAT!?? Now we are missing our connection. Breathe deep…..”work the problem”.

Knowing domestic airlines of southeastern Asian countries, we decide to just make sure we get to Port Moresby on April 6, and rebook our Qantas flight for April 7. But before we do that I decide to try to contact Air Niugini. Using Skype to call doesn’t seem to work with their phone system, so I send an email to their Customer Care Department.

My first reply is two emails saying the issue has been resolved. Resolved? What? I email back saying, “It is not resolved and we either want a flight that will connect with our Qantas flight or a hotel room for the night of April 6 in Port Moresby.”

I get a reply from Joyce, pretty quickly, saying it has to go to the International Department and I should hear back soon.

While writing this post, I decide to check Air Niugini’s website to see what it says for flights for April 6 (not sure what made me do it). My jaw fell open as there are now two flights listed – one at 1:10 pm and one at 7:05 am! I email Joyce to ask her about the 7:05 flight and if it is a guaranteed go. We wait and wait and wait and then an email……..

“Flight rebooked as requested. Revised copies sent through.”

We are now booked on the 7:05 am flight from Rabaul to Port Moresby, didn’t have to change our Brisbane flight, and have our fingers crossed.

Will keep you posted.

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Indonesia Photos

The photos from our recent trip to Indonesia are now posted to the blog.

To view photos, hover over “Photos” until the drop down menu appears. The photos are under the “Asia” subheading. Hover over “Asia” and another drop down menu appears with “Indonesia 2024″ listed. Click on that. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right hand side or the arrow key. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show. Enjoy!

The photos do not have captions, so here is a list of the photo sections:

Pelagian Liveaboard plus diving

Wakatobi Resort plus diving

Tulamben Resort plus diving

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Philippines Photos

Photos are now loaded into the blog from our trip to the Philippines in the spring.

To view photos, hover over “Photos” until the drop down menu appears. The photos are under the “Asia” subheading. Hover over “Asia” and another drop down menu appears with “Philippines 2024″ listed. Click on that. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right hand side or the arrow key. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show. Enjoy!

The photos do not have descriptions on them so here is a list of their order:

Puerto Princesa

Solitude Liveaboard plus diving

Cebu

Malapascua Island plus diving

Dauin plus diving

Manila

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Bali Notes

I like Bali. It is busy as hell and there are tourists everywhere but the ‘vibe’ is very comfortable. The people are courteous and work hard to keep the tourists happy. Customer service is part of growing up.

We have been here twice. We haven’t seen anywhere that lacks travelers. Ubud has been on the tourist trail since the days of the hippies. Kuta is within walking distance of the Denpasar airport. Sanur is a beach destination and jumping off point for a couple of the islands to the east. We are now in Tulamben, it should be a nowhere destination but at least ½ of buildings are dive shops or dive resorts. Tourism is the main industry in each of the above places. I am sure there are areas ‘much less traveled’ but I think these too will be holiday destinations soon.

Bali
Nudibranch

Even with all this tourist activity, the locals seem to carry on with their ways. A few days ago the entire island participated in celebrations of the full moon. As Debbie mentioned, there were parades where everyone is dressed in their traditional finery, the ladies carry offerings to the gods balanced on their heads and the long procession is accompanied by a gamelan band. Today there was another celebration in Tulamben. It was more of a local thing but still a lot of effort went into it.

The way people live and eat has changed in the last 100 years but there remnants of olden days. Most dress in western type clothes but it is not unusual for someone to be on the street in a sarong. Western food is readily available but the rice base diet of ancient times is still predominant.

Ribbon Eel
Ribbon Eel

Religion is far more dominant in Bali than say, Canada. It is not possible to move about by car or by foot without seeing a number of temples on your journey. Most of the people in Indonesia are Muslim. In Bali most of the population is Hindu. The people practice a unique type of Hinduism, Balinese Hinduism or Agama Hindu Dharma. This is a combination of Shivaism and Buddhism. 90% of the population participate in this highbred practice.

In keeping with hot climates, the pace of life is rather slow here. Nobody is in a hurry to get anywhere. The walk pace on the street is measured. The food in the restaurant is cooked when ordered not prepped in the morning and nuked when someone choses it from the menu.

Shrimp
Shrimp

If you want an Asian destination that is relaxing and friendly, go to Bali.

This is our last post from Indonesia. We have enjoyed our short time here and are already thinking about when we can come back.

Bali
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Muck Diving in Tulamben

In the Tulamben area, all the diving is shore diving. We learn a new system once again.

We meet at 8:30 at the resort dive shop and don our wetsuits, check our tanks and make sure we have all our gear. BCDs and tanks are loaded onto a small truck along with the plastic crate holding our fins, masks and small gear. With cameras in hand, Jaya (our dive master), Murray and I climb into the back of the truck for the short drive to one of many dive sites.

Once parked, four ladies descend on the truck to carry the tanks down to the shore and the crate to a staging area. Each dive shop pays fees to an organization of “porters”, which in turns pays ladies at each dive site to carry gear. And it’s only the ladies who are the porters!

Frog Fish
Frog Fish

Jaya gives us the dive briefing while we don the rest of our gear, grab our fins and cameras and go to where our tanks are. The beaches are quite rocky, so I am playing my princess card. Jaya throws my tank onto his back and escorts me, carrying my fins, into the water. I put on my BCD, then my fins and wait for Jaya to return to the water with Murray. They both walk in with their BCDs on and Jaya carrying my camera. We make sure we are all put together and then descend to the underwater world.

The diving here is “muck” diving, which means diving over the sandy, gravelly, rocky bottom. There is usually no coral on muck dives. We are looking for tiny creatures, mostly nudibranchs, that are less than 1/2 inch, or one centimetre, length. More about these critters later.

Nudibranch
Nudibranch

At the end of the dive, we repeat the process to get out of the water. Murray and Jaya first and then Jaya comes back to get my tank so I can walk out of the water without a tank. Oh by the way, I usually use a small tank but the dive shop does not have any small tanks so I have to use a regular sized one, which is heavier and more cumbersome than a small one, thus the princess card.

Hop back in the truck to go back to the dive shop for our surface interval and then do it all over again. Sounds like fun, right! 

Shrimp
Shrimp

We come to Tulamben to search out small critters. Mostly nudibranchs, shrimps, frog fish and the odd crab. I have a new camera, one that shoots macro and super macro, so I am in a steep learning curve. It is a different kind of photography than what I am used to. The first dive I have maybe two photos that are in focus and 50 out of focus. With each dive the ratio of in focus to out of focus goes up.

On the second day of diving we dive the Melasti Dive Site in search of the Nudibranch Costasiella Kiroshimae, or lovingly called “Shaun the Sheep”, for its black eyes, expressive feelers and sheep like face. These guys hang out on leaves and are about the size of a pin head. Jaya is great and is tutoring me on my camera and what settings to use for teeny creatures, tiny critters and small fauna. May I introduce you to one of many different Shauns……..

Shaun the Sheep
Shaun the Sheep
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Wakatobi to Tulamben

It is a travel day for us. Wakatobi to Tulamben. It’s quite the schedule: 6:30 luggage outside and breakfast, 7:30 pay bill, 8:30 vacate room, 9:30 leave for airport via boat then car, 11:30 flight leaves, 2:30 flight arrives in Bali. Phew!

We are picked up by Made, the driver for the Tulamben Wreck Divers. After stopping to exchange Canadian funds for Indonesian, it is a 2 1/2 hour drive to Tulamben, on the north east coast of Bali. I mentioned to Murray while still at Wakatobi to be prepared for the scrum once back on Bali, and indeed it started right away with a fender bender, not us, in the parkade.The traffic was almost in gridlock, but it moved.

We see another accident, this time a young woman with a motorbike sitting on the asphalt at the side of the road. Several people were helping her.

We pass a number of “celebrations”. People dressed up in traditional clothes, in procession. The women carry ceremonial buckets of fruit on their heads, offerings for the gods, and the men play music, with cymbals, drums and gongs. Apparently the celebrations are for the full moon, which happened yesterday. 

There is a group of men running, in formation, down the highway taking up a lane. Further ahead there are three or four groups of ladies walking, in formation, swinging their arms and saying something in unison. It is very military like. Made says they are practising for a future celebration. 

The vehicle we are in is a smaller, brand new, Toyota SUV. It’s too big for the roads. It feels like the vehicles are getting bigger here but the roads and infrastructure are not made for this size of vehicle. It will be interesting to see how this develops.

The traffic slows down around two temples. The area is crouded with parked vehicles and pedestrians. It’s kinda odd. One was a temple that celebrated bats and the other monkeys. Wikipedia says that monkeys are sacred and a symbol of harmony between nature and humanity.

We arrive at the Tulamben Wreck Divers at 6:30, tired and starving. Time to eat, unpack and then sleep. We dive tomorrow.

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Diving from the Pelagian

The first two days of diving from the Pelagian are unexciting. The reef doesn’t seem to be the pristine eco system that we had heard about. By day three, we change our minds.

Wakatobi

Healthy coral, both soft and hard, stretches for as far as I can see. The colours range from the usual tan to brown to yellow, blue, purple and orange. There is only a teeny bit of white bleach spots on the odd piece of coral. 

Wakatobi

The fish are abundant, although there are hardly any big silvery fish like barracuda. Most of the fish are smaller, like damselfish, triggerfish, anthais, and very colourful. Enormous schools of Red Toothed Tiggerfish swirl and eddy beside us. Anemone fish (clown fish) in their individually tailored anemones are happily doing their thing, until we float by, and then they are nervous and on alert.

Wakatobi
Nudibranch

Nudibranches, my fav, and flatworms, Mur’s fav, are spotted regularly. Some we know and some we do not.

Wakatobi
Flatworm

Our fourth dive every day is a night dive.  The day time fish are in holes resting. Weird and whacky creatures come out of hiding when it is dark. Two of the weirdest are the Spanish Dancer Nudibranch, a foot long fat Nudibranch, and the Anemone Crab.

Wakatobi
Spanish Dancer

Pygmy creatures are always exciting to peer at. We see a number of pygmy seahorses and a pygmy squid. The squid was so hard for me to see, I had to ask the dive master to hold his pointer next to it so I knew where to focus my camera.  

Wakatobi
Anemone Crab

The diving off the Pelagian in the Wakatobi area is some of the best diving we have done. We are now thinking we may have to come back to experience more of this wonder.

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Wakatobi Resort

We disembark the Pelagian this morning and are now staying at the Wakatobi Resort. The resort is run like a finely tuned Ferrari. We are met, checked in, given a tour of the dive center and then whisked away to do two morning dives while our bungalow is being prepared.

Wakatobi

After diving we are escorted to our bungalow and given an orientation there. Drinking water, outdoor shower, A/C, safe, no shoes/no sand inside. The usual.

The resort has a Longhouse, where reception and the dive center are, a Restaurant, a Spa and numerous bungalows and villas. Check out the website if you want to know more.

The staff at the resort memorize the photos and names of the guests from passports, so when we meet Opan for the first time, he opens with “Hello Debbie”. It is a little disconcerting and I ask him how he knows my name and he explains that they know all the guests names. And then Ibram, the restaurant manager, calls us by name. It’s kinda freaky but kinda nice also. Murray and I are now determined to learn, and remember the names of some of the staff.

Wakatobi

Another unusual thing is that on the name tags that the staff wear, there are the words “My passion is:” and then varying passions like swimming or football or playing guitar or cooking. We chat with a number of servers in the restaurant about their passions. It provides a way to chat with the staff that brings a level of friendliness to the resort. I like the idea!

Hermit crabs! We not only see crabs under water but at the resort too. Once it turns dark, diminutive shells with their occupants start scurrying along the pathways. Some have fancy shells and some have plain shells. We are now careful where we step so no crab gets squashed and ends up with a broken house.

Wakatobi

We have come off the Pelagian tired as we did four dives a day for six straight days. Our schedule for the resort is two morning dives and veg for the afternoon. There is a beach and crystal clear water that is calling me, so playing in the water is on tap too. Will write more after another good nights sleep.

Wakatobi
Designs along the paths

In the room is a Pillow Menu. The resort wants us to have a good nights sleep so offers four different pillows: down, microfiber, natural latex and memory foam. Murray’s pillow is giving him a stiff neck so he has utilized the service and will try a different type of pillow tonight.

What makes this resort special is the staff and how friendly and genuine they are. The customer service is exceptional and this one thing puts the resort high up above other resorts. We plan to come back here.

Wakatobi
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