Renesse to Brielle – 47 kms

Over the last few days, we have be stopping en-route to our destination. More things to see with easy access. We have routed ourselves through a few very cool small villages/towns. Shortly after we left Bruges, we passed through Damme. Our pre-trip research suggested it was worth a slight detour to drop in. I had only plotted the route directly into the center of town square and directly back out. It was before 10am when we arrived and the town was dead. It was hard to get a feel for the place.

The next day our route took us to the village of Veere. It was the center of the Scottish wool trade from the 13th to the 16th Century. At that time it was one of the richest ports in Europe. The port closed in 1961 but the town remains a tourist destination. The houses built by the Scot expats in 1600 and 1700 still remain and are part of the allure.

The same day, just before we reached our destination of Renesse we rolled through Burgh-Haamstede. On an island of great beaches this town accommodates its share of tourists. A beautiful place. All the buildings are maintained and the yards are perfectly manicured. If we were to return to this area we would consider a stop over here.

Today we ventured off the direct route to our overnight destination on a side trip to Rockanje. A very tidy place. Kinda quiet. Thursday noonish and there was hardly anybody out and about, except a girl on a horse walking down the street. Mind you, it was heavy overcast and windy. Again I liked the town and glad we road the extra few kms to see it.

Riding along the coast
Riding along the coast

Debbie writes:

We cross another span of water today on a storm surge barrier. This one wasn’t as long and with the wind at our backs it didn’t take long to cross.

Another water crossing
Another water crossing

Whenever we see a wind mill, we stop. They are such odd looking buildings, we can’t help but to take a photo. The wind mills we see now were used to process grain into flour.

Our destination for today is Brielle, a small town with bastions and a moat surrounding it. These were used for defence of the city during various conflicts. Find it on Google maps and zoom in to see the shape of the defences.

One of the cycle paths
One of the cycle paths
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Middelburg to Renesse – 36 kms

The weather gods are laughing at us! We think….ah let’s leave early and beat the rain! Hah! As soon as we get on our bikes, rain starts spitting at us. About five blocks away from the hotel, we have to stop and put our heavy rain gear on, and it stays on the whole ride. We look like drowned rats by Renesse and the gods are chuckling.

Storm surge barrier and “bridge”
Storm surge barrier and “bridge”

Cool part of the ride is going over the Eastern Schultz Storm Surge Barrier. There are two across the water in between the “half” islands we are traversing.

Cyclocross rider
Cyclocross rider

Murray is trying to turn me into a cyclocross rider. Part of our route today took us along a gravel/sand path filled with watery potholes. We zig, zag and bump along the path for about three kms. It isn’t too bad and we even have a close encounter with a young horse. The path leads us to within a kilometer of the Madison Bellefleur, the B&B we are staying at in Renesse.

Renesse is a beach town. Small local population that surges during the weekend and summer. Today is market day, so there are many folks in town to shop. We walk to the beach to see the seals that our host has told us about. Most of them are on a tiny sand bar off the coast. They are black specks out there. We spy one seal frolicking in the shallows.

Murray dipping his feet into the North Sea
Murray dipping his feet into the North Sea

We have been drying gear since we arrived. It is now 8:30 pm and most of it is dry, except our shoes and riding gloves. Our small room looks like a tornado went through it.

Tomorrow is supposed to be warmer, sunnier and rainless. The weather gods can torment someone else somewhere else.

A windmill along our route
A windmill along our route
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Bruges to Middelburg – 63 kms

The wind forecast is slightly more favourable this morning, but not stellar. The good thing is that we will have the wind at our backs for most of the route.

Bruges Windmill
Bruges Windmill

Our first stop is within Bruges at three old windmills. Their buildings are a different shape than the ones we saw previously. These wind mills ground grain into flour before they were moved and became landmarks.

Sand track outside Westkapelle.
Sand track outside Westkapelle.
Zwin Nature Park
Zwin Nature Park

Once out of Bruges the route is pretty straight, northwest to the coast. Murray planned the route to go around the Zwin Nature Park. On the gravel path on top of the berm, we meet a group of road riders and two tourists. They tell us the path is blocked and we have to turn around, so we do. We follow them and end up riding on a very narrow (in Debbie’s view) single track at the back side of the berm, next to the forest. I think I ran over a dead mouse! We end up well away from our planned route so Murray has to guide us back to the Komoot route.

The North Sea
The North Sea

Once on the coast, we ride a well traveled wide, paved path along the coast to the Westerschelde Ferry terminal. This is our first view of the waters of the North Sea. White caps, grey water, wide sand beach and cargo ships passing by. With the wind at our backs we are easily going 25 km/hr on a path with walkers, dogs, children and groups of people. A little too fast for my comfort. This area is a busy summer destination with numerous campgrounds on the land side of the dunes.

We board the passenger and bike (no cars) ferry for the 20 minute trip across the Westerschelde Estuary. The seas are rough due to the wind, but the ferry chugs along. We play chicken with the cargo ships passing.

On the ferry
On the ferry

After disembarking, we ride along a canal from Vlissingen to Middelburg, a distance of only about 7 kms. The wind is still strong and it makes a roaring sound in the tops of the trees. We are safe lower to the ground and behind an embankment and bushes.

Our hotel - Hotel St Joris
Our hotel – Hotel St Joris

Middelburg is a quaint university town, quiet and well laid out. The buildings are not as old as, say, Bruges or Ghent, but are still quite picturesque.

Middelburg
Middelburg
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Bruges Day Two

Boy am I happy we are not riding today. There is a RED wind warning, gusts up to 70kph! Fingers are crossed that the wind abates some by tomorrow when we have to get on our bikes again.

There is an immersive Dali exhibit showing which we go see. It was informative and intriguing and very well done. I loved the music in one room and the visuals. The last room was a VR experience. Headsets were placed on us (mine worked better without my glasses on) and it took us to a ship. We could walk about the ship and watch as the ship passed isles, rocks, elephants. Objects appeared on the ship too – a giant candle, an egg and ship parts. Now I can tell my children I have experienced VR!

Belgian Waffle
Belgian Waffle!

Next stop is The Church of Our Lady to view the Madonna and Child by Michelangelo. The charge is 8 Euros to be able to wander the back of the altar and the sides of the nave looking at the huge paintings, sculptures and prayer rooms. And then there is the Madonna and Child. It is small but beautiful, sculpted in the early 1500s.

Madonna and Child
Madonna and Child

Around the world it is not unusual for museums or art galleries to be closed on Monday. Even though we have been travelling for many years we still get caught on that one every once in a while. If visiting Belgium you have to keep your head up. It not just the tourist attractions that close on Mondays and Tuesdays. Things like restaurants work on the weekends and rest on Monday. There are those that stay open but if you had eyed a particular place to eat on your Sunday tour it may not open on Monday when you had intended to frequent the place.

Bruges
Monday crowds

The sights today were not nearly as crowded as yesterday. There were lots of tourists but there was a bit of breathing room. I knew there was ‘Open Monuments Weekend’ on Saturday and Sunday but did not realize it would attract so many extra people. There was not just your normal tourist crowd but Belgians from miles around hopped on the train and came for the day. The popular tourist attractions were crawling with people.

Windy Bruges
Windy Bruges

Another random thought about the wind. Debbie mentioned the gusts were 70+kph today. There is an extra danger that lurks on such windy days. Almost every day we have ridden we have come across wonderful alleys of trees that line the bike roads. As we pass under those trees there is a constant crunching of the nuts that have ripened and fallen to asphalt. We ride over them and there is a snapping crunch as we crack the shells with our tires. Today in those winds we found it dangerous to stand under those oak (maybe) trees. The nuts were raining down and plunking on anything and anybody within a few meters of the trunk. We survived the on-slot and will live to tell about the trauma.

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Bruges

Oh, the tourists. Bruges is the most crowded city we have been in so far. In the first hour of being downtown, I think I hear more English than I have heard from the start of our trip. So many people here.

Bruges

We get out of the crowd by going into the Groening Museum. The museum has a collection of paintings from the 14th century and each century after. It is interesting to note the changes in the painting techniques and subject matter as time went on. There is an exhibit of books that had incredible colour and script.

14th century book
14th century book

We wander to the main square and sit to eat a quick sausage roll for lunch. We share our ledge with a couple from Belgium and have a wide ranging chat. Later in the day we share our bench with a lady from Kortrijk and we discuss politics. These conversations are what makes travelling special.

Bruges

Today, we have time to sit in the square and watch the action. Two things… First, folks passing by are wearing sensible footwear. With all the cobbles, heels do not work so flat shoes, or sneakers, are the footwear of choice. Second, mostly women like to pose for photos. They place their feet a particular way and the arms are expressive. We see one fellow push up his sleeves so his watch and bracelet are showing for his posed photo. It seems that the person is saying “Look how fabulous I am, standing in front of the Stadhuis!” She is more like an actor in a scene rather than a traveller letting the scenery, ambience and culture sink into her bones. Has social media done this?

Debbie “posing”

Mussels, with garlic celery and onions, for supper. We manage to consume the whole bucketful and are thankful for the long walk back to the hotel.

Murray says:

There are so many different types of bikes here. Over the past couple of weeks I have seen bikes that look like they have been resurrected from the 1800s to racing bikes worth $10,000 plus. I saw two bikes today that I thought were worth a picture. One is a cargo bike with a roof and wind shield for the passenger and the second an enclosed recumbent, efficient from the aerodynamic perspective and protected from the elements.

The other thing that I have been seeing is the juxtaposition of architectural styles that sit side by side in every village, town and city we have visited. As I think I mentioned, that at least the facades of the old building are protected by the city or even the country. Which is sort of not true to the past, but these building fronts do remain and when a new building is placed adjacent to an old one the result can be quite stunning. I don’t know why cities like the one I live in, Edmonton, do not have enough balls to tell the developers they have to respect the existing city fabric and work with what makes the city unique.

Bruges
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Oudenaarde to Bruges – 62 km

I am sitting in our room at the Velotel, staying warm. Murray is walking to a supermarket to buy tomorrow’s breakfast.

Knowing we have 60 km to ride today, and the forecast is wind and rain, we are on our bikes by 8:30 am. It’s weird, a 60 km ride at home seemed to go on forever, but when riding in a new place, the 60 kms go by much quicker. I guess it is because there are new things to look at – the alpaca farm, trains, houses, fields of sunflowers, the canal, the river and boats. Also, the wind is at our backs for most of the ride!

Interesting house along the way.


We get stopped by the rain and shelter by some trees out of the wind. It pours, then abates and then pours again. We finally decide to put on our rain pants and just go for it and by the time we get them on, the sun comes out! We ride with our rain gear on just in case. By the time we get to the hotel, I am chilly, sweaty and uncomfortable and we can’t get into our room yet, so we have to sit. Once we get into our room, I am the first into the shower, and am not going out again into the chilly wet weather! Thus here I sit, toasty warm while Murray is outside.

I play mind games with myself as we ride. My bike computer says we have about 20 kms left. In my head I think, oh okay, that is the distance from South Cooking Lake to the Ardrossan Rec Centre. I know how far that is. Or, we have seven km to go. Oh, my mind says, we are on RR 221 at Wye Road. The distance is quantifiable and understandable in my brain.

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Ghent to Oudenaarde – 31 km

We are in Oudenaarde. We are not really supposed to be in Oudenaarde. Our planned route was supposed to take us to Kortrijk, but remember a few posts ago I talked about not being able to find a hotel room in Kortrijk? Instead of riding 50 km to Kortrijk we decided to ride 30 km to Oudenaarde. Why Oudenaarde?

When we first started researching this trip, one of us stumbled on the Leopold Hotel, in Oudenaarde. It advertises itself as a cycling hotel. We were both intrigued and we filed the info away. Through the planning of our trip, the Leopold would pop up occasionally and we would still be intrigued. When our final route was set, we were not stopping in Oudenaarde.

Until a few days ago when we couldn’t go to Kortrijk, we decided to go to Oudenaarde. What the heck! Let’s do it! Let’s stay at the Leopold! So, today we ride shorter than planned and tomorrow’s ride into Bruges is longer than planned.

The weather networks are forecasting very high wind gusts (50kph) today, so we are on the road by 8:30 to try to avoid the worst wind. It is chilly and we both have tights on and I have my gloves on. The ride out of Ghent is the best exit of a city that we have had. We ride against the flow of the commuter bikes. The ride takes us along the rail line and then along a canal.

Oudenaarde Stadhuis
Oudenaarde Stadhuis

We make Oudenaarde by 10:30! Oudenaarde is small, but still has a massive church, grote markt and stadhuis. This area is well known for its cycling routes and riding atmosphere. The Tour of Flanders usually finishes in Oudenaarde so Murray walks down the highway to where the finish line usually is.

Yesterday, in Ghent, we stopped in to a bike shop and chatted with a fellow. He mentioned that some e-bikes can travel at 45 kph and these bikes must have a license. We have been passed by these speed demons on the bike paths and have wondered about the licenses. My opinion is that these bikes should not be allowed on bike paths, their speed is just too fast for safety.

A story from Brussels that I forgot to mention. We ate at a sushi restaurant and as we were paying our bill, the server asked us where we were from. Murray said “Guess”, and he guessed Canada. Murray said “How did you know?” and the server said “You are very quiet! Americans are so loud.”

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Ghent Day Two

The Ghent Altarpiece, which includes the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, is breathtaking. There are 20 panels, 16 on the front and four painted on the back of the end panels. Each panel has a different theme – Adam, Eve, singing angels, judges, hermits, pilgrims and the centre panel is the adoration. One reason why it is so important is it is an example of the transition from Middle Age art to Renaissance art. I was in awe of its size and colours.

Adoration of the Mystic Lamb
Adoration of the Mystic Lamb

We splurge today and take a boat tour in the canals of Ghent. It is always fun to get a view of a city from the water. The one tidbit of info I come away with is the fact that in the Middle Ages (13 – 15th century) Ghent, the centre of the textile industry at the time, was the second largest and important city in Europe after Paris.

It rains twice while we are out. The rain here is like Caribbean rain. A deluge for 10 minutes and then the sun comes out again. Everyone runs for cover, waits and then carries on. We are getting used to this ritual, although we did don our heavy duty rain jackets.

View from our boat tour
View from our boat tour

Walking the cobbles is tricky. Feet are not finding a flat space and there is teetering and tottering. If it is smoother on the sidewalk, or road, or path, that’s where we walk. There is a wide variety of cobbles too, both riding and walking. Flatter to extremely bumpy and everything in between. Guess which we like the least!

We walk to the old docklands and see that the city is repurposing the area like most of the cities in the world that have water front access. The old buildings will be either torn down or renovated into lofts. There will be restaurants and bars for the locals and tourists. The new buildings will be multi-unit and multi use with a large walkway along the canal. When it is finished, it will be a great place to live.

Ghent Docklands
Ghent Docklands
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Dendermonde to Ghent – 37 km

We ride along a river today, with the wind at our backs, which makes the ride very pleasant.

Whenever we chat with someone about bike touring, they are surprised that we do not have e-bikes, and then they are impressed. We meet an older British couple in Dendermonde who are touring, he on an e-bike and she on a normal bike. Bravo! We see a number of bike touring groups in Dendermonde and they all have e-bikes. If they allow folks to ride and enjoy themselves, go for it.

Riding to Ghent
Riding to Ghent

Fries are a big thing in Belgium, and the Netherlands, so we are always on the lookout for fry shops. And the fries are delicious, cut from potatoes just before they are cooked, big and chunky. A large dollop of ketchup and I am set.

One of Ghent’s churches
One of Ghent’s churches

Wandering the streets in Ghent we walk by at least five churches. Huge churches. Ghent was a prosperous trade and religious centre in medieval times, thus there was money to build these massive structures. There is also Gravensteen Castle, the castle of the Counts, built of limestone, in the 11th century, and also impressive.

Gravensteen Castle
Gravensteen Castle

Murray and I both comment today how our legs like riding better than walking. After our ride here my legs feel fine, but after a long walk my legs are aching and I have to lay on the bed for a rest.

Most hotels offer breakfast, but it costs anywhere from 15 to 20 Euro each. That’s expensive for breakfast. Due to my food issues and not agreeing with the cost, we are eating picnic breakfasts in our room. Murray eats a bun or two with peanut butter. I eat a couple of gluten free WASA crackers, ham or salami and an orange or some blueberries, a total cost of maybe 5 Euro. On ride days, we eat the same thing for lunch too. It’s not exciting but, as my trainer says, it’s just fuel. Every day we shop for the few items we need for the next day. We eat well for supper which I usually get to pick – Thai, sushi, burgers, the occasional pizza or pasta.

Canal in Ghent
Canal in Ghent

Tomorrow, we have tickets to see “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb”, which is housed inside St. Baafskathedral. It is an important piece of art for its detail, use of oils and symbolism. I learned about it many years ago in an art history class and have wanted to see since then.

We took our first walk through Ghent today. It very old and the history is very well preserved. There are newer buildings for sure but a good portion of the very old ones are standing and still in use. At least it appears that way. Checking out some of the construction I would say the requirement is that the facade be kept, the building behind can be demolished and a new building attached. Sort of sleazy but I think it would be hard to upgrade the 11thC electrical up to today’s standards. Anyway the city is fun to walk through even dodging the multitudes of other tourists.

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Brussels to Dendermonde – 35 km

If it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium” A 1969 romance/comedy movie starring Susanne Pleshette, Joan Collins and a plethora of stars of the time.

It’s Tuesday and we mistime our departure from Brussels slightly and ride with the rush hour drivers, walkers and bike riders. Yikes! Our route wiggles and waggles so the turns are always anxiety producing in the traffic. We make it through the city and by about 12 kms we are in quieter traffic.

Murray warned me about it being hilly today. The hardest climb is about a 10% grade for about a short block. That gets us breathing heavy! Once we leave the Brussels area, the terrain tended down down down.

With such short mileage, we arrive in Dendermonde by noon. Luckily, we get into our room earlier than the 3:00pm check in time, change clothes and head out to see the city.

Dendermonde has a university here which gives it a certain vibe. Pizza is easily available, along with burgers and beer. The grote market is small and the surrounding buildings, including the stadhuis, are well kept and in good condition. There was a parade last weekend and the parade floats are sitting in the grote market awaiting the results of the judging for best float. They are all very impressive.

A float in the Dendermonde Grote Markt
A float in the Dendermonde Grote Market

St. Alexius Begijnhof, with its buildings laid out in a triangle is an oasis of quiet. This religious women’s residence has sections dated from the late 1200s, and parts that are considerably newer. There is a small church in the center of the triangular area. It would be a peaceful place to live.

St. Alexius Begijnhof
St. Alexius Begijnhof

The canal that runs through part of Dendermonde is used for sports. Today there is a class of upper elementary kids in kayaks, navigating up and down the canal with lots for noise and pandemonium.

Kayaking on the canal
Kayaking on the canal

I have to tell you about our evening last night.We sat down to book our hotel for tonight and thought we should also book our stay in Ghent. Holy smokes! The few hotels in Dendermonde seemed to be all booked up and Ghent doesn’t have any rooms available! What is going on? It’s midweek! We find and book the hotel we are at now, Boutique Hotel Marie Marie. Then we start playing with dates for Ghent and find one for two nights instead of the three we planned. Then we thought we should look at the next places we are going, Kortrijk and Bruges. Apparently Kortrijk has an international construction convention in town and there are NO rooms. We decide not to go there at all and reroute ourselves. Then Bruges, similar story with a lack of hotel rooms, with bike parking. We end up booking the Velohotel, 2km outside the center of Bruges. Apparently a lot of tour groups stay there, so we will be rubbing shoulders with other cyclists. There is a bus stop right there so we can get into Bruges. So, we have booked hotels for the next week, something we were trying hard not to do.

We have been on the road now for 11 days. While eating supper tonight we tried to recall where a particular restaurant was. Which city? What hotel did we stay in? It’s all starting to blur together…….

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