havecarryonwilltravel

The West Coast Trail has been labelled by many to be one of the best, if not the BEST hike in the world. I do not have nearly enough expertise to pronounce such a statement, but it is quite an experience. Upon completion of this adventure both Debbie and I were taken by a feeling of great satisfaction and a tremendous sense of accomplishment.

The trail is hard, real hard, but I do not want to dissuade anyone wanting to walk it from doing so. Just do not approach it with complacency. Understand that what you want to undertake may be more than you have bargained for. So come prepared, read what you can, train by hiking before you get here, have the proper gear, weather and accidents happen, it is good to have what is required to cope and above all come with a positive attitude, rested and ready to take on an arduous task.

The trail is about many things. It is about goals and what it takes to accomplish them, preparation, tenacity, and pain, mental and physical. It is about people, all those we meet in transit. Everyone has a different reason for mounting this expedition and it is truly a pleasure to sit and chat with as many people as we can and learn of their personal WCT experience.

It is about expanding ones boundaries, learning new skills, getting outside of our comfort zone and surviving each day. It is about the trail and how every kilometre is different and how much concentration it takes to navigate each step safely. It’s about the coastline and how rugged it is and why the trail exists, being constructed to assist ship wreck victims to find their way back to civilization. It is an aural experience. Without most of the sounds of the our 21^st century life we are able to enjoy the birds, the rhythmic sound of waves washing up on the shore and the sound of the rocks rattling against one another as the water draws them back seaward. It is about the campgrounds, situated in the most serene locations with a million dollar view at our doorstep each evening.

We are lucky, the weather is perfect, the trail is not too crowded, and Debbie and I finish with only minor aches and pains. Would we do it again? As I said, I do not think so but for what it is worth we are both glad we did it and I think it has had a part in shaping who we will be in the future.

Debbie’s notes:

I agree with everything Murray has written. It is hard, very hard, but is it a wonderful journey. A journey of amazing sights and sounds and a journey of discovering just what I can do – bouldering, walking tree bridges, balancing over rocks, hiking 17 km in one day. Even though I am in pretty good shape for a mid 50 year old, I have always been abit of a chicken. No more!

For you folks out there thinking of tackling the West Coast Trail I have a few suggestions. If you know months and months in advance that you are going, get in the gym and do some weights. Squats, step ups, lunges, core work, balance stuff and don’t forget the upper body. I am so thankful that I had been working with a trainer for the past couple of years and my legs handled everything that got thrown at me.

Practice hike, working up to your full backpack weight. This prepares your feet, legs, shoulders and mind for the kilometers ahead. Try to find some hilly and more rugged terrain. Go on a couple of backpack trips to fine tune your gear.

If you are thinking of hiking the West Coast Trail, do not delay, just get out there are do it. You will be glad you did.

It is 6:09 am, we jump out of bed at Murray’s cousin’s place, load the car with the few items that aren’t in the car already, point the car east and even with a 20 minute drive to Sydney we make the 7am ferry. It’s going to be a good day. Every time we stuff our bodies in or out of the car we are aware of the well used parts. It is odd but even our rear ends are stiff.

This city life is a bit unnerving. Back to the world of aggressive car drivers, traffic lights, neon signs, and all at speeds we have not encountered for 8 days. We’re kind of missing the serenity of the walk/camp routine.

We are not in any big hurry but the traffic is light and we make good time, stopping at the Lucerne Campground just west of Jasper for the night.

Lucerne Campground – our last stop

It is the home run on Tuesday and even though we have again passed many deer signs we have yet to see a deer, there are as many moose signs on the east route as there was on the west route and still the only moose we saw was no where near the signs, no bear signs and no bears, we did however did see some elk.

Elk near Jasper

I know, big deal, they are a dime a dozen in the park but the two we see are two males with big racks swimming across a lake just east of Jasper. They swim to the shore adjacent to the highway, emerge from the water and calmly walked across the highway as if they own it. Cool (again you have to excuse me but I did grow up in the 60’s). Can’t say I have ever seen that.

Elk near Jasper

The road home continues completely uneventful, except I get to sleep while Debbie drives the last 200 km.

C’est fini. The unusually high fibre diet and strange water finally catch up with me and my stomach rebels. A little worried that the morning’s events might repeat a good number of times on the trail today I skip breakfast and Debbie and I head out about ½ hour earlier then the 8:00 start time we had planned. We inform S & L and we are on the home stretch. The first couple of hundred meters is in keeping with the trail in general. NO warm up. We leave camp and immediately are faced with a steep gnarly hill. I thought this section of the trail was a cake walk??? Cresting the hill the trail does become considerably easier and we can walk fast. The start reminds us to stay vigilant and pay close attention to where we step.

Mist along the trail

The terrain from here on is rolling with more up and down than I expected but a good hike. We cover the 12km distance in 4 hours, side trips and rests included. The fastest we have gone on the West Coast Trail!

Pachena Lighthouse

Debbie managed to stay upright the entire 8 days, I on the other hand landed on my butt 3 times, all on the same day, the day we are introduced to the beach and slide to my knee once on a seemingly dry boardwalk. All without injury other than my pride. I was trying to do the trail upright. There was one other incident when we stepped to the side of the trail to let our 70 year old Chinese friend pass and as he did so he turned to mount the adjacent boardwalk and whacked me with his pack knocking me flat on my ass. I didn’t let him live that down and teased him at every chance I got.

Mushroom

As we sit on the picnic bench just outside the Park Office we meet group after group of our ‘temporary friends’ as they emerge from the forest. Our Chinese friends, including the 70 year old birthday boy head straight to us and high five Debbie, we all join in. H jetted ahead yesterday to get the car for his hiking companions and he meets us with cold Cokes and a bag of chips. I had to bypass the chips but even with my stomach in marginal shape I could not resist a Coke so cold the beads of moisture rolled off the can like the sweat on my face.

L, S, Debbie, Murray and H

The West Coast Trail Express arrives with an entire crowd of folks full of anticipation for the adventure that awaits them. We strike up some idle conversation and wish them luck as the set out in small groups.

We make our way to the bus, climb aboard and prepare for the trip around Lake Cowichan back to Port Renfrew. Half the trip is on forestry roads, bumpy and dusty. We hit the pavement at Lake CowichanVillage and the trip takes on an entirely pleasant feel. 3 ½  hours later we disembark at the Port Renfrew West Coast Trail office. R, our hobbled friend and J are at the foot of the bus stairs yipping and hugging as we step down.

WE DID IT!!! All four of us have a tremendous feeling of accomplishment. This trek is no walk in the park. It tests you to the limit both mentally and physically. I’m cocky and never really questioned whether or not I would finish, Debbie on the other hand questioned it many times but we trained hard and were as prepared for this specific task as well as anyone could be. At the end I do realize that part of the trip is the fact that “I’ve been there, done that”. Would I return? Maybe. Debbie says definitely, No, but time changes things and if the opportunity arises again…..who knows.

Happy to be at the Pachena Trailhead

The West Coast Trail is the penultimate journey and up to now we have only been rained on for maybe ½ an hour, but we have experienced a good amount of fog. These mist views have resulted in many missed views (I just had to write it, sorry). Today it is clear and sunny. It is the first day we have been able to spot and observe the giant grey whales bobbing up and down a couple of hundred meters off the shore. We marvel at how such large creatures are able to be so graceful.  

Whale

Today’s hike is 13 km, short compared to yesterday and very doable. Our bodies are tired and Debbie’s knees are complaining, she recites her mantra, “core and glutes” all day. S’s ankle is getting rubbed raw and she finds it easier to walk on a solid surface so we trek most of the day in the forest. The soft footing on the beach just adds to her discomfort.

Morning fog

The beach is not just sand and sandstone shelf. There are many types of surfaces to walk on and we are always searching for the most solid substrate. Seaweed, although spongy when deep, is quite supportive if we walk along the edges of the piles. The smaller pebbles are not much better than the sand but make a cool rattling noise when we step on them. The pool ball sized rocks are hard to travel on, they roll against each other easily and we constantly adjusting our balance. The boulder sized and bigger rocks are good for making time but we are always on the alert for the ones that move or teeter. We use our forward momentum and keep an eye on the exit from our present step to glide from stone to stone trying not to remain atop any one too long.

Dancing over the rocks

Today brings a reunion. We are back in sync with the Toronto crew who started on the same ferry in Port Renfrew but went on ahead of us on day 3 when we walked short to wait for our friend’s who started a day behind us. Both of our groups expected to use 8 days to complete the journey. Their journey took them from Camper to Walbran to Cribs to Tsuisiat Pt to Klanawa to Michigan. These folks traveled a long way to get here and fully intend to enjoy the experience. They travel slow take in as much of the surroundings as possible and when they finish they have reservations on the water taxi for the return trip to Port Renfrew enabling them to relive the prior week from a completely different perspective. We spend some time walking, chatting and comparing experiences, just enjoying seeing one another again and relaxed in each other’s company.

View from the trail

We depart Tsusiat at 8:30 and arrive at Michigan Creek at 3:30. 13km in 7 hours including stops. Again we travel faster and now we know we will meet our bus tomorrow.

The campground is busy and we feel like old hands. All of the people arriving from the north, just starting out, are full of energy and enthusiasm, clean and smell of various odor masking fragrances. We on the other hand are really quite dirty, our finger nails are black with dirt, our clothing is filthy and even though it is not offensive to us we must smell a slight bit musty. The newbie’s are full of wonderment and expectation, we on the other hand know what lies ahead of them and are somewhat smug regarding the feat we have accomplished.

Just before supper a fellow comes running along the beach with news of a bear. A black bear has just emerged from the forest about a ½ km from the campground. The trail guardian has told someone the bear is often there and is not interested in ‘people food’ so is not likely to endanger any of us. Most of the people on the beach observe his movements from a very safe distance. It is the first bear we have encountered so we also watch with interest.

After supper Debbie reveals we will celebrate our last evening by indulging in a banana chip, peanut and melted chocolate desert. How come we do not get this stuff at home????

Michigan Creek campsite

Our last night on the trail. We spend time a campfire chatting with S & L, and some new friends we have met along the way. N & G are from New Brunswick, they hiked the East Coast Trail last year and felt it only fitting to bracket the country by doing the West Coast Trail this year. I’m not sure how the connection works but G & C are traveling with N & G and are living in Vancouver. We all trade stories of present and past experiences and enjoy the last evening on the beach.

The people we meet along the way is another important part of the trail. As I have said, the West Coast Trail is far too crowded to be considered a true wilderness experience but the ‘crowds’ are of like mind and it is great to hook up with these temporary friends and learn about life from the perspective of others.

Anticipation of tomorrow’s trek back to civilization looms large and we are excited. We have to remember to remain vigilant and focus on every step. We really want to arrive at the end of the trail unscathed.

More beauty found along the trail

Today is the long trek on the West Coast Trail. 17km if we go as far as outlined. There are a few camp spots along the way but no large campgrounds and no facilities at any of them. We are used to camping in somewhat secluded areas but we are still concerned about the distance we need to cover. There is one site just to the south of the voluntary no camp zone but staying there would just mean putting off the long day as the number of kms left divided between the number of hiking days determines the length of each hike. There are also three very nice camp sites at Tsusiat Point just north of the Hole in the Wall. L and I think it would be great to stay there but we are out voted (a woman’s vote is weightier than a man’s), the women want to travel the next two kilometres to the falls and have a shorter hike tomorrow.

A View from the Trail

We know today will be a long time on the trail and we depart a bit early. 7:50am and we are off. Our first goal is to be at the Nitinat ferry crossing at noon. Another diner type lunch. Debbie is on the front of the group and sets a blistering pace for the first 10 km. We are five hikers in a row, Debbie, me, S, L, and H. We travel a combination of beach and forest, it is a full leg workout, each type of travel requiring the use of different muscles.

Walking the Beach

The forest walk along the voluntary no camp zone is like a highway. It is about 1.2M wide, hard as asphalt and flat as the prairies. We make exceptionally good time here. As we pass by Clo-oose and head towards the ferry crossing we hit a stretch of new board walk and again our speed picks up. We are going to make our appointment with the West Coast Trail Express on Sunday.

Bingo, we arrive at the Crab Shack at precisely noon and lunch is in the making. Debbie and I share a crab, a baked potato and a Coke. It costs a mere $30, not really that bad since it would cost at least that much to have a crab dinner in any city restaurant. It is enough to fuel us for a few kilometres but not enough to sustain us for the remaining day’s allotment of 7km.

For me it is another day of equipment failure. My pole still shrinks when I lean on it too hard and again my water bottle breaks forcing me to carry it in my spare hand. My woes continue when the sole of my hiking boot separates from the arch back. From here on I have Debbie tie my under sole gaiter tie extremely tight and it holds the boot sole mostly in place. When packing to leave I did switch from carrying sandals as my ‘camp’ shoes to an old pair of running shoes just in case my boots did disintegrate, at least I would have something somewhat stable to finish the trail in.

I also pay for a moment of inattention today. We are walking along the beach as it is easier to walk on the wet sand because the water has compacted it and we do not sink so deep. Debbie asks for a piece or two of the beef jerky I have in my pocket. The tide is on its way in. As I fish around trying to undo a obstinate ziplock enclosure, a rogue wave rushes in from my left. As I turn and run up the beach the water catches me from behind. I am wet right up to my ass. Pay attention Mur!

It is a very long day on the trail and Debbie discovers sore tired feet hinder photo creativity. It is all she can do to stand and wait for me to take couple of shots. Her camera remains in the pouch and only sees the light of day at the campsites after we have time to change footwear.

Hole in the Wall

Our senses are becoming a bit more attuned to the surroundings and today holds some interesting observations. The first is aural, as the tide is moving in the waves wash high up on the shore. Water is a very powerful medium and rearranges the landscape with ease. We open our ears to the sounds of the waves and realize how similar the sound is to the city sound of cars whooshing by on the street during a rain storm. Then we hear a most wonderful noise, a rattling, clicking sound. We figure out it is the sound of rocks clacking on one another as the receding wave draws them back seaward. This is a particularly meditative sound and is very peaceful to fall asleep to.

We do see some wildlife although the bear that is the reason for the no camp zone kept himself concealed. There are a few seals and sea lions cavorting in the waters close to shore. I wonder if doing what they do is as much fun as it looks or if to them it is just ‘work’.

There are many, many slugs on the trail today, we see no reason to step on them and as we travel along in line a call echos back, “Slug on the right”. As I round a piece of driftwood I startle a bald eagle. It takes to the air with something large grasped in its talons. Walking past the spot from which the eagle lit out we observe a pile of white feathers and realize the dinner that evening is a unfortunate seagull. Such is nature. In the flora department we see a variety of mushrooms. Blue ones, orange ones, red ones, magic ones and one that looks like it is chocolate covered. The mushrooms we observe on the prairies are not nearly as varied as the ones we walk by today.

At km 14 both of the ladies are flagging. We rest at the Tsusiat Point campsites. Snack, drink and generally kick back. This is where the previously mentioned vote to move on takes place, we do not have any issues with the tide so it is a beach walk to the falls.

Tsusiat Falls

9.5 hours after we departed Cribbs Creek we arrive at the Tsusiat Falls campground, and that includes a 1 hour stop for lunch. The campground is very large and there is lots of space between sites, which as best I can make are all on the beach. We choose a spot perfect for our two tents and far away from neighbors.

Tsusiat Falls campsite

There are some toilet problems, one of the two is plum full and has been roped off closed and the other has only one hinge on the door so it is difficult to close but after all how shy can one afford to be in the ‘wilderness’.

This day has taken a lot out of all of us but things are getting progressively less difficult, we are traveling faster and the next two days are well within our capabilities.

The fog

Sand, 2 feet forward, 6 inches back, trudge, trudge, trudge.

Walking the beach – Debbie, S and L

We have found walking in footprints makes the sand walking easier for the three followers so we walk in a line of four. Similar to when we ride, one person takes a turn on the front, uses up some energy and then drops to the back of the line, person two takes over and this is repeated over and over with the trailing 3 recovering so they can again go to the front in turn and do their part.

Anemones

Then we reach a section of sandstone shelf and we motor. We still are intensely focused because of the ‘green stuff’ but our speed picks up tremendously.

Lunch at Chez Monique’s is our goal and we arrive right at noon. It’s burgers and pop/beer all around. Debbie and I pay $41 for two very large burgers and one Coke. Monique is very accommodating with Debbie’s no gluten, dairy or egg diet and gets fresh out of the garden vegetables with her patty. Expensive, but what the hell, we are literally 35km WALKING distance from the next burger joint.

Deer

Passing on the beach below the lighthouse a buck deer is feeding on the green grass adjacent to the sand. He is completely unfazed as a group of 6 of us pass within 10M.

Seals

There are a few seals playing in the water or loafing on the rocks and we pass the first of two sea lion haul outs. There are a few of the big animals sunning themselves but they are a long ways off and we need our binoculars and my long camera lens to see them.

Seagulls

Monique tells us how to avoid some of the muddy inland trail by accessing a small beach, walking the beach and then mounting the stairs to the lighthouse. We follow her advice to a degree but end up being lured by group of other hikers into a corner at an ‘impassable’ headland. While some of the folks try to figure out a way around the rocks I talk Debbie into returning to the stairs we had accidentally bypassed and go up and over the rocks via the lighthouse. I inquire at the lighthouse asking if the group below was in further danger if they do get passed the headland. The keeper checks the tides and feels they should be OK if the get by the short stretch of rocks. He is a very nice fellow despite the fact I’m sure he gets bothered a lot so he would be within expectations if he was a little less accommodating. When Debbie and I return to the beach the group of travelers we had left 20 minutes earlier have made it around the point and are only a couple of minutes ahead of us along the beach.

Carmanah Lighthouse

When backcountry skiing I find skinning the uptrack to be meditative. It is easy to reach a ‘Zen’ state of mind. Walking the WCT is not like that at all. The hiking is not only physically strenuous but mentally so as well and although it is repetitive it is not meditative.

Cribs Creek Campground in the distance

I am beginning to formulate the idea that the West Coast Trail is NOT about the journey. The walking is OK, albeit very difficult, but the destinations are what’s spectacular. The settings are idyllic and the views are great. The campgrounds, although busy with people, are serene and it is here we reach a meditative state. These places are not offensive as in a front country camp ground. Nobody here is hiking in copious amount of alcohol, no one is here to party, everyone is exhausted and of like mind. The conversation centers around our common interests and we hit the sack early. All in all a good experience.

Again today we travel faster than the previous days and it looks like we are buoyed by the idea that the entire trail will not be hiked at 1km/hr. We were on the trail by 8:15 and walked into camp, 11 kms later, at 3:30. This included a long stop at Chez Monique’s. I figure our moving time for 9km is about 3.5 hours, a perfectly acceptable hiking speed.

Cribs Creek Campground – our spot

We go to bed knowing that tomorrow is the longest day on the trail, 17km. It is interesting that the West Coast Trail tests you in a large variety of ways.

The Fog

Today’s the day we meet up with our friends. We are to be at the north side of the
Cullite Creek cable car between 11 and noon. Breakfast and pack up are at a leisurely pace. Everyone else is gone by the time we have our stuff stowed and ready to go.

Cullite Creek in the morning

About 9.30 a very fast hiker blows through the campground coming from the south. As he progresses he inquires if anyone knows L. At first I did not catch on but Debbie realizes that L is part of S & L, the daughter and son-in-law of our friends and the ones we are about to meet up with. This fellow, we will later find out is named H, tells us that S’s dad rolled his ankle within the first 3km of the trail and had to be evacuated from the Thrasher campground. S & L are still be on their way down the trail but R & J have returned to Port Renfrew. “Yipes!”, says Debbie, “J is the one that talked me into this! She is supposed to do this with me! How am I going to finish this without her!”

R has hiked for many years and been on trails all over the world, never an incident until now. This reminds us to keep our eyes to the ground and pay attention to every step.

Now, the two folks we are to meet are youngins so we are not sure what time they will arrive. We presume they will travel faster than we did so we plan on making it to the meeting spot on the early end of our estimate. Sitting on the platform at the north end of the cable car we meet every person passing by, both north and south. Some folks are talkative, some not, some are friendly, some not so much. We meet folks from all over the world, Scotland, Germany, Belgium, France, Oregon, Chicago, and Boston. Sit here at around noon and you observe quite a traffic jam. I have fun chatting and helping those that choose the cable car route to cross the creek. The creek is not high and most dance across the rocks but there are two or three that want a ride and I work up a sweat helping out.

Up to now Debbie and I have been traveling very slowly so we decide that if S & L do not meet us before noon we have to be on our way to make the next camp at a decent hour. We use the standard trail communication technique and ask a passing group to relay a message to the north bound couple. We will meet them at the Walbran camp if we do not make contact at the cable car. Not more than 5 minutes after we pass on the message S & L arrive. We have only met S a few times and neither of us has ever met L but we introduce ourselves and we light out. Up, or course. The start to this day, for Debbie and me is ladders. Another day without a warm up, seems to be developing a pattern here.

It is right on noon and we climb the ladders and break out lunch when we reach the top. Even though Debbie and I have only walked about 300M and climbed a few ladders our metabolism is starting to increase so feed time is feed time. We get to know S & L over lunch and talk about R’s misstep, the trail up to this point and today’s hike.

S & L are much younger than us and we figure they will be traveling at a faster pace so they lead off and slowly gain ground as we move along. The trail is much more ‘civilized’ from Cullite Creek to Walbran Creek than the previous 3 days.

There is more boardwalk, at least more useable boardwalk, less sucky mud, and fewer scary crossing. At least it seems that way, it may be that we are just getting used to the travel and the obstacles are not as intimidating. Today is the day of ladders but as I said earlier neither of us are bothered by them so up and down and up and down we go without much problem.

WCT Ladders to Suspension Bridge with Debbie, L and S

We cross the famous suspension bridge over Logan Creek without issue and we all take pictures of the crossing.

Murray on Logan Creek Suspension Bridge

Logan Creek Suspension Bridge with Ladders in the background

Debbie makes an interesting observation. We have passed many men, some alone, some in groups, and some with their older children (both girls and boys), but very few of the spouses are along for the trip. She wonders why and thinking out loud she says “If I can do this they can.” The trail is difficult but it is not impossible and this is proven over and over by the number of people that complete the trek each year. Come on you women out there! Get out of your comfort zone and do this hike!

We arrive at Walbran Creek campground at 3:30, only about 15 minutes after our young companions. We are picking up speed as we go, we travel 5km in 3 hours. This is cause for the belief that we will finish the walk on our pre-planned date with the bus at the Bamfield end.

The campground has a few beach sites with driftwood for wind breaks and a few forest sites. The wind is quite noticeable here and it makes it somewhat cold. We get a spot just off the beach that offers a little break from the wind and barely big enough for two tents. Our tents share a tent peg, we are that close. Nothing like a crash course “Hi, I’m Murray and we are going to sleep with inches of you tonight”.

Walbran Creek Campground – two tents getting to know one another

It is amazing how much mental work is required to hike the trail. There are a tremendous number of decisions to make in less than a second. With all the sensory information we can gather we decide what direction to go, what micro route to follow, where to place our foot, what the condition of the footing is, where to place our poles, what kind of terrain we are about to step onto, we maintain balance, we are looking ahead for the next step, all this takes place in a millisecond. It is little wonder that no matter how fast our latest computer is we are not happy because it is too slow. It is also little wonder that we are mentally as well as physically exhausted at the end of each day.

So, we and our young friends are exhausted and we hit the sack early again in preparation to hike the next day. A similar but new challenge awaits.