ADVENTURE to the Blue Hole

Today is adventure day. The dive group and some of the crew are going to motor with the tender down a river and then dive in the Blue Hole. Dan, the captain/cruise director hasn’t been there in 15 years, so no one is really sure what we are going to find. By 8:30 am we are leaving the Mother ship, boarding the tender and heading up river into the Heart of Darkness. The river was, in semi recent times, populated with head hunting local tribes. This practice ceased in the 1960’s but as you will read we were met by several groups on the way up the river, no bows and poison arrows though.

New Britain, Papua New Guinea

We get approval from the locals to do this trip and part of the negotiation, along with some cash, to take two fellows with us to guide us up the river and help carry the dive gear. The slow motor upstream is filled with views of large trees, the occasional homestead and many folks standing on the shore watching us go by. I wave at everyone to say Hello. In every group is a myriad of children as school is on a break.

New Britain, Papua New Guinea
New Britain, Papua New Guinea

We get to a spot and moor close to the shore. We have to walk a short distance from here. The dive guides have the unfortunate chore of carrying our dive tanks and gear. The locals take us the “quick” route of up and over a steep hill on very rough terrain. When we get to the top, we see the colour of the water in the blue hole and am amazed and just want to jump in.

New Britain, Papua New Guinea
View of the Blue Hole from the top of the hill.

Up is just fine (I’m a better up mountain goat) but the down is extremely steep, almost like rock climbing. One dive guide is quite concerned about me and has a tight grip on my arm as I scale down the rocks placing my hands and feet carefully. 

New Britain, Papua New Guinea
Resting Spot above the Blue Hole

Once down, I sit on a thick tree branch just above the water. Slowly all the divers get their gear on and disappear into the blue. Murray and I do the same and get a shock when we plop into the crystal clear water. The water temperature is 25 C or 73 F. I peer down into the depths and the sun’s rays filter down and it is gorgeous.

Blue Hole
The depths of the Blue Hole

We descend to 40 feet and swim a tour around the lake, me taking photos and Murray taking videos. Our dive lasts only about 30 minutes due to the cold. 

Blue Hole
Looking up through the water to the trees overhead.

Instead of climbing up and over the hill again, it is suggested we float down the stream/river to where the tender is moored. Little did we know what lay in wait for us. 

Dan goes first and once he disappears around the corner, R, D, Murray and I start out, followed by B, B, J and W (a dive guide). Apparently Dan had shouted “wait till I check it out before you go”. No one heard him. We float with our BCDs and tanks in front of us holding on to the straps. Dan wasn’t quick enough to warn us and one by one the first group goes over a waterfall! It was not too high, a foot or two, but a waterfall none the less, with jagged rocks at its base submerged in the roiling water.

Murray tells us he was having trouble getting his arm out of the strap of his BCD and went over the waterfall on his back. D tells us he called out to Murray to WATCH OUT! and then Murray disappeared. OH SHIT! and then AAAAHHH! as he realized he is next and then goes over.

R and I go over almost the same time. Just before I tumble over I see Murray downstream and he is  lower than me. Here I go!

D comes out with a scraped hand. Murray hits his hip on the rocks, tears his wetsuit and now has a nasty contusion on his hip, a sore calf and a bruise on his shoulder. R takes the worst tumble and hits his forehead. When I see him, his face is covered in blood. This spill causes him to let go of his BCD and it hasn’t been seen since. I crash over, my tank jams on the rocks, I flip over my tank and hit my mask so it becomes askew on my face. Fortunately, I have my regulator in my mouth and did not let go of my BCD so manage to get it dislodged. I end up with a small bruise on my knee and one on my arm.

Murray’s torn wetsuit

B goes over the waterfall, scrapes his knee and films the whole trip on his GoPro. Dan manages to stop B, J and W from the experience and they get out and walk through the trees to where we are beached. We are fortunate that no one was hurt more seriously, but it cost a wetsuit, a BCD, a set of regulators and a tank.

Time is spent trying to locate the BCD and tank. The best guess is that it is lodged in the rocks right below the waterfall where is it impossible to search. R’s BCD was only partly inflated, whereas mine was fully inflated, so that might have added to it getting stuck on the rocks. It is decided the gear is gone and we pile back into the tender and motor back to the mother ship.

New Britain, Papua New Guinea

Today, with the stressful trip over the hill to the Blue Hole, missing and broken gear and the injuries, the adventure turned into an ADVENTURE!

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Alotau, PNG

We walk into the Domestic Terminal at the Port Moresby Airport and the first thing we notice is that we are the only white people anywhere. We can’t figure out where we to check in so Murray asks an employee with a vest on and he directs us to a line and tells us check in opens at 7:30. It is about 7:15 and we are second in the line. A lady with two children pulls in beside us and asks if we are going to Alotau and I say “Yes, are you?” And she says “Yes” with a big smile. She is from there. She seems tickled that she is going to where we are going as once inside the boarding gate area, she comes to sit with us. Her little girl watches us with huge eyes.

One employee was controlling the lines for two check in counters and did a pretty good job of it. Friendly guy. The lines are held behind the queue ribbons and only two people are let through at a time for each counter. It prevents mass pandemonium at each counter, I think.

Once we are checked in, we proceed through security. They are doing the procedures but it is pretty lax. Murray walked through the metal detector and the light turned red, but nothing was done about it. Maybe they figure a white guy is not a threat. All the carry on bags went through the X-ray but I did not see one get pulled aside to be checked.

There are four gates, but only two seem to be used, and mostly just one. After watching several plane loads board, we think the system is very efficient. No ID is being checked, just boarding passes. The ceiling is acoustic tile and the PA system is pretty good, so all the announcements are understandable. They have their systems down pretty efficiently.

We are early for our flight, so sit and people watch. We are counting white folks. For the number of folks who board flights, the proportion of light coloured skin is extremely tiny.

I enjoy seeing what the women are wearing. Many of them have dresses in bright and wild fabrics. Many ladies, and men too, are carrying a big bag in bright colours and knit or crocheted. I remark to Murray that the green one would make a great throw pillow on our living room chairs. mmmmmm…..

Our flight is called and we take off early. Looking out the window of the plane shows me the countryside is quite hilly and untraveled. No logging, no roads, virgin forest, many streams winding to the ocean. Settlements are located on the rivers or near the ocean. Fisher people.

We are in Alotau and it is 36C, hot. We are taking it easy today and tomorrow will get a ride to the centre of town. We will walk around in the morning for a short while and get a ride back to the hotel. That is the plan….we will see what the morning brings.

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Port Moresby

We are flying Qantas to Port Moresby today. As we are trying to put our bags through the electronic bag drop, the system goes down and the conveyor belts and computers grind to a halt. The line behind us builds. It is twenty deep at 8 bag drop locations. After about 15 minutes with several Qantas staff running around, the belts start moving again and the staff reboot the computers. Since we were in mid transaction we have to wait until one of the fellows cancels our transaction before we re do it. Works really well once it gets going! We are glad we were in the front of that mess.

The flight to Port Moresby is filled with mostly men, travelling alone. Business folk, engineers, consultants, maybe trades folk, mostly Australians. This is a working person’s flight. We may be the only tourists on board, plus a few Papua New Guineans.

We deplane and start chatting with a couple of folks in the line at immigration. We learn quite a few important things about PNG. When Murray asked one of the fellows in line if Port Moresby was safe his answer was, “It’s fine, just stay in your own lane.” Mur thought that was odd so he questioned further, the answer “You do not walk around Port Moresby.” If you want to go somewhere, hire a driver to take you there. A woman that travels to PNG as a consultant works 2 weeks in, 2 weeks out, rents a one bedroom unit within a hotel complex. It is not safe to be alone in a usual apartment building, so she stays within a hotel complex where it is more secure. The hotel we are staying in got the thumbs up from the woman. She impressed upon us that folks are really friendly, but there are those that will try to steal your backpack. She reiterated “be careful” a number of times. 

We are staying at the Airways Hotel. Which, by the way, was started and owned by a Greek. It is very well appointed and tastefully decorated.  It has a section for hotel guests but also a section of what appears to be longer term stays and staff accommodation. In one part, there is a pool table/games room, big screen TV room, library, swimming pool and casino. 

The people we have met have been super friendly. They do work in the hospitality industry, but everyone has still been helpful, smiley and chatty. I am not sure very many tourists come to PNG so maybe we are different than the usual folks staying at the hotel for work. 

Tomorrow we take our last flight, Port Moresby to Alotau, a small town on the southern tip of the island. We have an extra day to decompress before we board the scuba dive liveaboard. Our plan is to walk around the town, but now we may rethink that, be careful our friend said. I could use a day by the pool!

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A Day in Brisbane

We arrive in Brisbane at 7:00 am. Our flight to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea, is the next morning so we have decided to spend the day in downtown Brisbane. The Queensland Art Gallery (QAG) and the Gallery of Modern Art are first on our list. The QAG is a maze, so we go left and go left again, and left some more until we wander through the myriad of exhibit halls. Lots of Australian and Aboriginal artists. A handful of masters, like Degas, Pissarro and Picasso. There are a number of huge floor to ceiling, entire wall installations that are wondrous.

Across the courtyard from the QAG is the Gallery of Modern Art. There is an exhibit on now called the Asia Pacific Triennial. Art from over 30 countries in the area is on display and gives one an insight of art from New Zealand, China, Timor-Leste and many island nations.

By now it is lunchtime so we walk to Queen Street Mall. We have lunch at Jimmy’s, an outdoor bar/coffeehouse/restaurant in the middle of the mall. Murray and I share Pad Thai, which is just enough lunch, and people watch.

After our rest, we decide to see if we can get on the City Cat, the water bus that plies the Brisbane River that runs through the city. For 50 cents we ride the water bus, first upstream and then downstream. It went a lot farther than we thought so we were on the boat for about 2 hours! We really like seeing cities from the water as it gives a whole different prespective. As the high rise office buildings and condos gave way to residential areas, we are amazed that there are still many single family residences right on the river. Some of the older houses look to be original “plantation” estates. 

It’s time to head back to the airport hotel and a half hour train ride has us back there. Supper, check in for our flight to Port Moresby the next day and then we try to stay awake. I pass out at 8:00pm, Murray by 8:30.

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Air Niugini

We are off to Papua New Guinea in a few days to go scuba diving. We have booked flights within PNG on Air Niugini, the national domestic and international air carrier of PNG. We have had experiences with other domestic airlines in Indonesia and The Philippines, some good and some ridiculous. Air Niugini is heading toward the ridiculous, but there is hope. Here is the story.

Once we arrive in Port Moresby, the capital of PNG, we have to fly to Alotau to meet the liveaboard dive boat. We have had one time change to that flight. So far, that flight is still good and is not causing us issues.

The liveaboard cruise ends in Rabaul, on the island of New Britain, east of the main island of PNG. We have to fly from Rabaul back to Port Moresby and then pick up our return flight to Brisbane. Our Qantas flight to Brisbane departs on April 6 at 1:15 pm, so we booked the Rabaul to Port Moresby flight for 7:00 am. Lots of time! Just a little insurance in case things go wrong. Well, here we go………

First email notification arrives telling us the flight number is changed and now leaves at 7:05 am. Okay.

Second email arrives telling us the flight is now leaving at 8:20 am. No issues, we can still make our connection.

Third email arrives telling us the flight is now leaving at 1:10 pm. WHAT!?? Now we are missing our connection. Breathe deep…..”work the problem”.

Knowing domestic airlines of southeastern Asian countries, we decide to just make sure we get to Port Moresby on April 6, and rebook our Qantas flight for April 7. But before we do that I decide to try to contact Air Niugini. Using Skype to call doesn’t seem to work with their phone system, so I send an email to their Customer Care Department.

My first reply is two emails saying the issue has been resolved. Resolved? What? I email back saying, “It is not resolved and we either want a flight that will connect with our Qantas flight or a hotel room for the night of April 6 in Port Moresby.”

I get a reply from Joyce, pretty quickly, saying it has to go to the International Department and I should hear back soon.

While writing this post, I decide to check Air Niugini’s website to see what it says for flights for April 6 (not sure what made me do it). My jaw fell open as there are now two flights listed – one at 1:10 pm and one at 7:05 am! I email Joyce to ask her about the 7:05 flight and if it is a guaranteed go. We wait and wait and wait and then an email……..

“Flight rebooked as requested. Revised copies sent through.”

We are now booked on the 7:05 am flight from Rabaul to Port Moresby, didn’t have to change our Brisbane flight, and have our fingers crossed.

Will keep you posted.

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Indonesia Photos

The photos from our recent trip to Indonesia are now posted to the blog.

To view photos, hover over “Photos” until the drop down menu appears. The photos are under the “Asia” subheading. Hover over “Asia” and another drop down menu appears with “Indonesia 2024″ listed. Click on that. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right hand side or the arrow key. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show. Enjoy!

The photos do not have captions, so here is a list of the photo sections:

Pelagian Liveaboard plus diving

Wakatobi Resort plus diving

Tulamben Resort plus diving

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Philippines Photos

Photos are now loaded into the blog from our trip to the Philippines in the spring.

To view photos, hover over “Photos” until the drop down menu appears. The photos are under the “Asia” subheading. Hover over “Asia” and another drop down menu appears with “Philippines 2024″ listed. Click on that. Wait until the photos load. Click on the first photo and a “slide show” view will appear. Scroll through the photos using the arrow on the right hand side or the arrow key. Click on the “x” in the upper right hand corner to exit out of the slide show. Enjoy!

The photos do not have descriptions on them so here is a list of their order:

Puerto Princesa

Solitude Liveaboard plus diving

Cebu

Malapascua Island plus diving

Dauin plus diving

Manila

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Bali Notes

I like Bali. It is busy as hell and there are tourists everywhere but the ‘vibe’ is very comfortable. The people are courteous and work hard to keep the tourists happy. Customer service is part of growing up.

We have been here twice. We haven’t seen anywhere that lacks travelers. Ubud has been on the tourist trail since the days of the hippies. Kuta is within walking distance of the Denpasar airport. Sanur is a beach destination and jumping off point for a couple of the islands to the east. We are now in Tulamben, it should be a nowhere destination but at least ½ of buildings are dive shops or dive resorts. Tourism is the main industry in each of the above places. I am sure there are areas ‘much less traveled’ but I think these too will be holiday destinations soon.

Bali
Nudibranch

Even with all this tourist activity, the locals seem to carry on with their ways. A few days ago the entire island participated in celebrations of the full moon. As Debbie mentioned, there were parades where everyone is dressed in their traditional finery, the ladies carry offerings to the gods balanced on their heads and the long procession is accompanied by a gamelan band. Today there was another celebration in Tulamben. It was more of a local thing but still a lot of effort went into it.

The way people live and eat has changed in the last 100 years but there remnants of olden days. Most dress in western type clothes but it is not unusual for someone to be on the street in a sarong. Western food is readily available but the rice base diet of ancient times is still predominant.

Ribbon Eel
Ribbon Eel

Religion is far more dominant in Bali than say, Canada. It is not possible to move about by car or by foot without seeing a number of temples on your journey. Most of the people in Indonesia are Muslim. In Bali most of the population is Hindu. The people practice a unique type of Hinduism, Balinese Hinduism or Agama Hindu Dharma. This is a combination of Shivaism and Buddhism. 90% of the population participate in this highbred practice.

In keeping with hot climates, the pace of life is rather slow here. Nobody is in a hurry to get anywhere. The walk pace on the street is measured. The food in the restaurant is cooked when ordered not prepped in the morning and nuked when someone choses it from the menu.

Shrimp
Shrimp

If you want an Asian destination that is relaxing and friendly, go to Bali.

This is our last post from Indonesia. We have enjoyed our short time here and are already thinking about when we can come back.

Bali
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Muck Diving in Tulamben

In the Tulamben area, all the diving is shore diving. We learn a new system once again.

We meet at 8:30 at the resort dive shop and don our wetsuits, check our tanks and make sure we have all our gear. BCDs and tanks are loaded onto a small truck along with the plastic crate holding our fins, masks and small gear. With cameras in hand, Jaya (our dive master), Murray and I climb into the back of the truck for the short drive to one of many dive sites.

Once parked, four ladies descend on the truck to carry the tanks down to the shore and the crate to a staging area. Each dive shop pays fees to an organization of “porters”, which in turns pays ladies at each dive site to carry gear. And it’s only the ladies who are the porters!

Frog Fish
Frog Fish

Jaya gives us the dive briefing while we don the rest of our gear, grab our fins and cameras and go to where our tanks are. The beaches are quite rocky, so I am playing my princess card. Jaya throws my tank onto his back and escorts me, carrying my fins, into the water. I put on my BCD, then my fins and wait for Jaya to return to the water with Murray. They both walk in with their BCDs on and Jaya carrying my camera. We make sure we are all put together and then descend to the underwater world.

The diving here is “muck” diving, which means diving over the sandy, gravelly, rocky bottom. There is usually no coral on muck dives. We are looking for tiny creatures, mostly nudibranchs, that are less than 1/2 inch, or one centimetre, length. More about these critters later.

Nudibranch
Nudibranch

At the end of the dive, we repeat the process to get out of the water. Murray and Jaya first and then Jaya comes back to get my tank so I can walk out of the water without a tank. Oh by the way, I usually use a small tank but the dive shop does not have any small tanks so I have to use a regular sized one, which is heavier and more cumbersome than a small one, thus the princess card.

Hop back in the truck to go back to the dive shop for our surface interval and then do it all over again. Sounds like fun, right! 

Shrimp
Shrimp

We come to Tulamben to search out small critters. Mostly nudibranchs, shrimps, frog fish and the odd crab. I have a new camera, one that shoots macro and super macro, so I am in a steep learning curve. It is a different kind of photography than what I am used to. The first dive I have maybe two photos that are in focus and 50 out of focus. With each dive the ratio of in focus to out of focus goes up.

On the second day of diving we dive the Melasti Dive Site in search of the Nudibranch Costasiella Kiroshimae, or lovingly called “Shaun the Sheep”, for its black eyes, expressive feelers and sheep like face. These guys hang out on leaves and are about the size of a pin head. Jaya is great and is tutoring me on my camera and what settings to use for teeny creatures, tiny critters and small fauna. May I introduce you to one of many different Shauns……..

Shaun the Sheep
Shaun the Sheep
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Wakatobi to Tulamben

It is a travel day for us. Wakatobi to Tulamben. It’s quite the schedule: 6:30 luggage outside and breakfast, 7:30 pay bill, 8:30 vacate room, 9:30 leave for airport via boat then car, 11:30 flight leaves, 2:30 flight arrives in Bali. Phew!

We are picked up by Made, the driver for the Tulamben Wreck Divers. After stopping to exchange Canadian funds for Indonesian, it is a 2 1/2 hour drive to Tulamben, on the north east coast of Bali. I mentioned to Murray while still at Wakatobi to be prepared for the scrum once back on Bali, and indeed it started right away with a fender bender, not us, in the parkade.The traffic was almost in gridlock, but it moved.

We see another accident, this time a young woman with a motorbike sitting on the asphalt at the side of the road. Several people were helping her.

We pass a number of “celebrations”. People dressed up in traditional clothes, in procession. The women carry ceremonial buckets of fruit on their heads, offerings for the gods, and the men play music, with cymbals, drums and gongs. Apparently the celebrations are for the full moon, which happened yesterday. 

There is a group of men running, in formation, down the highway taking up a lane. Further ahead there are three or four groups of ladies walking, in formation, swinging their arms and saying something in unison. It is very military like. Made says they are practising for a future celebration. 

The vehicle we are in is a smaller, brand new, Toyota SUV. It’s too big for the roads. It feels like the vehicles are getting bigger here but the roads and infrastructure are not made for this size of vehicle. It will be interesting to see how this develops.

The traffic slows down around two temples. The area is crouded with parked vehicles and pedestrians. It’s kinda odd. One was a temple that celebrated bats and the other monkeys. Wikipedia says that monkeys are sacred and a symbol of harmony between nature and humanity.

We arrive at the Tulamben Wreck Divers at 6:30, tired and starving. Time to eat, unpack and then sleep. We dive tomorrow.

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