Leuven to Brussels – 31 kms

Murray Writes:

Flat??? Flat my ass! Today we rode from Leuven to Brussels. There was not 1cm of flat ground. Different gradients for sure, there were no 20%+ grades like the Muur, but up and down all day. Then I looked up the meaning of Leuven and to my surprise it means the ‘town of hills’. So I looked up Brussels, meaning, ‘city of no flat ground’. (disclaimer. You have to do your own research as to the meaning and origin of the names above.)

I think today the bike roads were in the worse condition of any we have traversed so far. Poor asphalt, bumpy concrete and a section of what would be loosely termed as gravel, that had a very steep down slope. We rode it and with the slope alone, no pedalling, we were going far to fast for the conditions.

Some of the route was along a state highway. Noisy, dusty and not a very pleasant ride. After following canals far from any road most of the time till now the highway ride is a bit of a down grade.

I think the bike road designers have been trained by the folks that design XC ski trails in Canada. You know the trails that have a right angle turn at the bottom of a very steep slope. At the bottom of every downhill on the bike paths is a set of lights. Always red of course and you don’t get to use any momentum gained from travelling with gravity to carry along the flats because you have to halt right at the base of the descent.

Art Nouveau in Brussels
Art Nouveau in Brussels

The Belgian bicycling culture is noticeably different from that in the Netherlands. The bikes are different and the riders are different. Although there is a major overlap I note some differences. The bikes, in the Netherlands the everyday bike is huge. Everyone is very upright and I think the wheels are bigger than standard wheels. In Belgium that type of bike has standard 700 wheels. The bikes do not look as ungamely as in Holland.

There are far more bikes with drop handle bars in Belgium. Not just riders in kit but everyday commuters have ‘racing’ bikes. To that there seemed to be a lot more serious riders out and about in Belgium, both on Friday and Saturday. Riders in spandex on expensive ‘racing’ bikes riding very fast, alone or in small groups.  It is a bit scary for a couple of off the continent slow riding tourists as there is not a word spoken when they pass. It is just whoosh and you’re looking at someone’s back wheel.

The serious riders are not the only ones that pass without warning. The ebike crowd does the same. Maybe saying ‘ passing on the left’ would have to be repeated 1000 times per ride and it would get rather boring but it would be nice if we knew there was someone about to overtake us.

A bit of getting lost on the way into Brussels but we end up at the proper hotel and check in. We start looking at the info we have gathered we found we were a couple of blocks away from a walking tour of some of Europe’s best examples of Art Nouveau Architecture. A very famous architect Victor Horta did a couple of the buildings and they are now UNESCO heritage sites. If you are out this way the walk takes just over an hour and is worth the time. Tomorrow we brave the centre of Brussels on a Sunday.

Art Nouveau in Brussels
Art Nouveau in Brussels

Debbie Writes:

It’s Saturday today, so we see sights we wouldn’t on a weekday. A group of young girls riding horses on the bike path during a riding lessons. Their instructor is at the head of the line riding a bike. We say Good morning to the young ladies as we pass by slowly and they politely reply back.

Earlier we meet a girl riding a horse walking beside her friend, pushing a scooter. The horse seemed unperturbed.

As we ride over an overpass across a major highway, we look down on a major traffic jam. One direction is moving at a crawl. I wonder where they are all going?

By the time we reach greater Brussels, it is close to noon and everyone is out doing their shopping, meeting friends, having coffee. We ride through one section where there are cars and people everywhere. This is where I would like to have a big Canadian flag on my back so everyone knows I have no idea how to ride in the congestion!

Ah, the hills! Today was the hilliest riding so far. It felt like we were either going up or going down, no flat bits. All the training in Ardrossan, outside Edmonton, has paid off! The longest up hill was leaving Leuven, and Murray says it was a two kilometre climb.

We have arrived in Brussels and have two days off our bikes and onto our feet to visit art museums, palaces and interesting alleys and streets.

Art Nouveau in Brussels
Art Nouveau in Brussels
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Antwerp to Leuven – 56 km

I wake up anxious today. We have spent two full days away from our bikes and today we are getting back on them. Why am I anxious? Here’s the story….

Riding into Antwerp was hard for me. A ways out of Antwerp, we were riding down a bike path and approach from behind moving equipment on the path. It was three large ride on units, one “grass cutter” in front, a “baler” second and a “blower” in the back. The fellow in the back sees us, moves his machine over off the path so we thought it was safe to go by him. I am following Murray closely to get the draft. Murray realizes the blower is still extended across the path and slams on his breaks. I manage to swerve around Murray to avoid him, ride into the bumpy ditch, can’t get my foot out of my pedal clip and do a slow motion fall onto the ground. The guy came rushing over to make sure I was okay and insisted he help get my bike back onto the path. I then had to get by the other two monsters on the path. Fortunately, I came away from that encounter with only a bruise on my butt and a couple on one knee.

By the time we got to the hotel in the centre of Antwerp, I had almost wiped out twice after my tumble. I was so glad to get off my bike!

Thus the anxiety this morning. I study the route out of Antwerp and it is fairly direct with not too much zigging and zagging. It still takes about 15 kms for me to relax. I no longer feel comfortable riding closely behind Murray except on a pristine path with nothing going on.

On the bike path
On the bike path

The ride is excellent to Leuven. Most of it is along a couple large canals on an 8’ wide perfectly paved path. Many road bike riders, in kit, whiz by us, so this route is a favourite one for locals. There are also numerous e bike riders that cruise by us. And the wind is at our backs! We make good time and have lunch in Mechelen’s main square watching the activity.

Mechelen
Mechelen

We arrive in Leuven by 2:00 pm and after showering and organizing, head out to explore the town. Groot Begijnhof is a 13th century walled community for religious women. Although these women led a religious life, they did not take vows and were free to leave or to marry. Many of the buildings are being used today as student or professor residences.

Groot Begijnhof
Groot Begijnhof


The library at the university is open to tourists, so we poke our noses in. I was expecting something more grand, but it is still impressive. Three levels of 5 shelves per level around three sides of a long narrow hall. That’s a lot of books!

We have been seeing town halls (Stadhuis) in every town we ride into. The most impressive one so far is here in Leuven. The detail on the exterior of the building is jaw dropping. I will let the photo describe the detail.

Leuven’s Stadhuis
Leuven’s Stadhuis

Leuven is a university town with many young people in the square and along the streets. The town is beautiful with a number of churches and university buildings. Definitely worth a visit!

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Antwerp

Sorry folks, we missed yesterday. We were hopelessly lost and didn’t get back to the hotel until 9.30pm. We were on the way to the Jumbo supermarket and our friend got out her phone and Google mapped a route. It wasn’t very clear and we headed in the complete wrong direction. By the time we figured that out we were at least a 1/2 hour farther from our hotel. I have to say it was a pretty good walk and we got to see Antwerp in the early night time. By the time we arrived at the hotel, we had travel on foot just short of 20km over the day.

When we arrived I scooped a paper map from the front desk of the hotel. Ya paper. There was a walking ‘tour’ of the central part of Antwerp. 4km with a few side trips and a couple of times getting lost and a couple more. It was a really good way to see some of the must see places. A more ordered approach than the random method we usually employ.

Antwerp

Another not so normal adventure was lunch on the main square. Often the restaurants on the plein would be more expensive than a similar place one block off the square. But on the menu was mussels, one of the highlights of the Belgian cuisine. Debbie and I managed to consume a kilo of mussels in a garlic veggie broth. Our friend showed us the proper way to eat mussels which was more efficient than what we were doing.

The wear and tear of the tour meant we were ready for an afternoon nap and both of us indulged.

Antwerp

The end of the day saw us seated for dinner again on the main square. We left the hotel in search of a place to eat and it is not easy to find random restaurants. We decided on pizza and half way to the restaurant the skies opened up and it poured. Debbie and IB used Debbie’s heavy riding rain jacket as an umbrella and I had on my light rain coat so was protected. We all got half soaked. The rain made the pizza taste wonderful. On the way home we got lost as I mentioned above.

The thing a North American must learn is to look both ways twice when crossing the street. One to cross the bike road and once to cross the car road. The people in Antwerp obey the don’t walk lights to a tee, the little red man. You can be a side street with no traffic in sight either direction and you wait. The little green man is the cue to cross.

As far as I know Antwerp is not on any tourist agenda but I think it is worth a couple of days stopover. There maybe nothing earth shaking here but it is a has a good vibe and some places that require a look see.

Antwerp
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Dordrecht to Antwerp – 40 km

Today we leave the Netherlands for a short foray into Belgium. But I have a couple of nagging comments about the Dutch. It is a culture of mini dogs. There are a ton of people out walking their dogs but 99% of those dogs are no taller than a foot (30 cm for you younger folks). We presume this is due to the size of the people’s residence. No room for a St. Bernard.

The second thing is a bit odd but here it goes. The Dutch have amazing toilet paper. It is the same quality as those paper napkins that you keep and only bring out when you have guests.

Last, but this is not strictly a Dutch thing. I am sure I mentioned this when we travelled through Denmark. I hate cobbles. Our asphalt roads in Alberta can be rough but to pedal over cobbles after 5 hours in the saddle is horrible. Shaking and bouncing about, your forward progression slows and it is just generally uncomfortable.

Antwerp Central Station
Antwerp Central Station

We crossed the border in Belgium today and you notice things have changed. The canals have disappeared. Lot of green countryside but no water. There are only about 1/2 as many bike riders. Yes it is still a biking culture but the numbers are down a little. In general the bike ‘roads’ are not kept to the same standard as north of the border. At least not on the first part of our journey here.

When we arrive at Schipol we met a couple from our home town that was going to spend a month riding around most Belgium. When we told them we were starting in Amsterdam she mentioned they and pedalled about the Netherlands a few years ago. Her strongest memory was the wind was forever a head wind. I kind of thought bad luck and we can do OK with a bit of wind. The last two days have been the wind from hell. Yesterday we spend about 4 hours into a 30+km wind. OK we made it. Today we start out with a mild tail wind. All good. about 11am the wind changes direction and again we are head on into a 30+km wind. I’m kinda hope’n our luck changes sometime and we can ride with the wind.

Our intro to Antwerp was quite uninspiring. We road on bike paths but through a heavy industrial area. I think it was near the port so big machines and trucks, huge warehouses, big yards of storage and transfer of goods. We then travelled along some heavily used arterial roads, again not the first impression that makes one think you have arrived in Eden. Finally we get to the main square. Quite a stunning place but crowded and maybe not the place for a couple of North American bike riders to have to manoeuvre through.

Antwerp

We are spending the next two days off our bikes, wandering around Antwerp.

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Dordrecht to Bergen op Zoom – 65 km

Today is our longest ride during the trip. We are on the road by 8:45 after a hearty breakfast at the hotel. We want to ride through the National Park de Biesbosch, a delta full of plants, animals and birds.

It takes us 45 minutes to ride to the ferry and arrive just as the ferry is pulling in from the other side. It is a car ferry, so about five cars drive on and three bikes, two of them ours. It costs us 2.84 Euros for both of us for the crossing.

Biesbosch National Park
Biesbosch National Park


Riding along the bike trail south, we see fields, both cultivated and non cultivated. Along the waterways are herons and ducks and we hear birds we cannot identify. There are cows here too! Not quite our idea of a national park, but it is peaceful here. It is very quiet as it is a Monday and only mid morning. Our destination is another ferry dock on the south end. As we ride up to the dock we see that the small ferry is about 2/3 of the way across the water.

‘t leeuweveerke ferry
‘t leeuweveerke ferry

This ferry ‘t Leeuweveerke is a solar powered ferry, run by volunteers, that holds only 12 people, only bikes allowed and no motorized bikes or vehicles. The ferry does have batteries, just in case, and it does not run on bad weather days. We notice how quiet the ride is. Murray and I are its only passengers for the 15 minute crossing. This ferry cost us 11 Euros.

‘t leeuweveerke ferry
‘t leeuweveerke ferry

We ride onward. Today is the first day that the wind is strong, really strong. We ride into the wind all day long. Murray sacrifices himself and rides in front so I can draft behind him. We ride this way all the way to Bergen op Zoom. When we turn a corner and the wind shifts, sometimes I get blown off the back and have to call out to WAIT!

In one section of the ride we ride by huge oak trees lining the road. I’m sure there was more than a hundred oak trees! I have never seen so many, ever. The crunching under our tires is tiny acorns that have fallen on to the path.

Remember me saying that we thought the geese were flocking? Today we saw 3 or 4 large vees of geese flying overhead. Yup, they are migrating!

We are both hurting for the last 5 kms as we ride into the center of Bergen op Zoom and are thankful when we reach the hotel. We are staying at the Hotel de Draak, the oldest hotel in Bergen op Zoom, having been built prior to 1400, and survived two city fires. The hotel sits on the market square, where all the action is.

Debbie uses the word ‘action’ a little loosely. This is the sleepiest town we have visited. I don’t think there is much for a tourist to do here. A couple of European old buildings and that’s about it. A few locals are around but not very crowded. I still think it is a village worth one night stop over.

Hotel de Draak, Bergen op Zoom
Hotel de Draak, Bergen op Zoom
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Gouda to Dordrecht – 33 km

Today is Sunday and the road riders are out in force. Our route follows roads and a carless path which seems to be a favourite ride for these riders. They whiz by us and we rue our heavy loads and miss our road bikes that are at home.

Outside Gouda
Outside Gouda

We ride in true countryside today. Large fields going in all directions. The farm yards are compact and tidy, no derelict out buildings here. Cows are numerous and so are the geese. We think the geese must be gathering up for a flight south, just like in North America.

We are finding the Dutch people very friendly. They are willing to chat with two curious Canadians. We have also come across Mexican, Polish and Irish folks all heading to the F1 race in Zandvoort.

Kinderdijk Windmills
Kinderdijk Windmills

Today, our major stop is to see the Kinderdijk windmills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are 19 windmills built around the late 1700s for water management in the area. We enjoy stopping for photos and even eat our lunch in view of one of the windmills.

Kinderdijk Windmill
Kinderdijk Windmill

There is a party on the grounds of the church today in Dordrecht. Rock in the Park, with a rock band, food trucks and a small market. We desperately need food so we gobble down some fries. Dordrecht is quieter than Gouda but the streets are just as lovely. Many of the shops are ateliers, artist workspaces in the back of the shop and a small store in the front. It seems to be a very artistic town.

Dordrecht’s Rock in the Park
Dordrecht’s Rock in the Park
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Amsterdam to Gouda – 58 km

It’s pouring rain when we get up. The forecast says it should stop around 9:00 or 10:00. By the time we are ready to go, it has miraculously stopped raining. The heavy duty rain gear stays in the pannier. We manage to stay dry and warm all day long.

Leaving the hotel vicinity is easy. We are using Komoot as a navigation app. The female voice instructs us to turn right here and left there. We have to get used to her instructions and how the bike paths work as a couple of times her saying turn right here, then left then right, confuses Murray (who is leading), and we have to stop, turn around and try again. By the end of the day’s ride, he has it figured out with a combo of voice instruction, blue line on the map and bike path reality.

The bike paths are mostly red in colour. The pedestrian path is pavement colour so there is a separation. There is usually a hedge or curb separating the road, and cars, and the bike path. Occasionally the bike path is a shoulder of the road with a dashed line as the separator.

We wiggle waggle through residential, light industrial and farm areas. There are canals everywhere. Sometimes with ducks or geese, a few swans and one heron(!) floating on or standing in the water. A town called Woerden is our lunch stop. We park ourselves on a bench next to what happens to be a church. Next thing we know we are chatting with a local woman, then her kids and then her husband. The best kind of lunch stop.

Our next stop is Oudewater where there is a witch weighing museum. Apparently, if you were accused of being a witch, you could get weighed and if your weight was within a “normal” range, you were declared not a witch. Luckily, neither Murray or I are witches, and I have a certificate to prove it!

Witch weigh scale
Witch weigh scale

From Oudewater to Gouda is only 15 km. Lesson learned today…..make sure Murray’s phone is 100% charged in the morning. We pulled up to the hotel with only 3% battery left on his phone. Phew!

After checking into our hotel, parking and locking the bikes and showering, we go for a walk in Gouda. It is Saturday, the market is in full swing and there are people everywhere. The market sells fruits, veggies, meats, purses, clothes and, yes, cheese!

Gouda’s Saturday Market
Gouda’s Saturday Market

Every larger town has a Stadhuis, or town hall. Gouda’s is quite impressive.

Stadhuis in Gouda
Stadhuis in Gouda

Supper is Thai. By the time we exit the restaurant, the market is shut down and the streets are quiet. Gouda is a lovely town full of unique shops and sights.

Gouda
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Amsterdam

We arrived in Amsterdam yesterday morning, shuttled to the hotel, put bikes together, unpacked two suitcases into our numerous pannier piles, ate supper and collapsed.

Slept in this morning as our internal clocks are still in MDT. We have chores to do today so we force ourselves out of bed and get to it.

Amsterdam Central Station
Amsterdam Central Station

A shuttle ride and then a train ride takes us to the Amsterdam Central Train Station. We walk down Rokin Street looking for a Vodofone shop, to buy SIM cards, and a Geldmaat ATM to get some cash. After a some blocks and a few wrong turns we find both.

We line our panniers with plastic bags in case of torrential rain. I inadvertently only brought four bags instead of eight, so our third chore is to find a super market large enough to sell plastic garbage bags. This is the hardest chore to accomplish. We have 7-Eleven stores at home. In Amsterdam there are Albert Heijn stores, selling mostly quick prep meals or ready to eat items. It reminded me of the stores in Japan that sold similar items. We finally are directed to a larger Albert Heijn shop and find what we need.

Tushinski Theatre
Tushinski Theatre in Art Deco

With our chores done, we can now play tourist. We wander past an art deco theatre, stroll along canals and end up at the Stedelijk Museum, a contemporary art and design museum. I like the “old” stuff – Picasso, Mondrian, Kandinsky. The “new” stuff sometimes makes me want to discuss “What exactly is art?”

We were warned about the bicycles and to watch out for them. They are everywhere, and don’t always follow the rules, so we look both ways before crossing a bike path or road. They seem to go very fast in congested areas. All sorts ride bikes – young women in short skirts and high boots, guys in wide jeans and sneakers, old people, young people. The bikes are not fancy, mostly dark colours, sit up straight kinda bikes.

Amsterdam Canal
An Amsterdam Canal

Fries are very popular here. NOT French fries, just fries. Served in a paper cone with a large dollop of sauce (ketchup for me) on the top. We sample this staple and enjoy every bite. Another popular food item is waffles. Decorated, iced, served over tea. We haven’t sampled waffles yet, but it is on the list!

We are now back at the hotel, listening to it pour rain outside. We will pack the panniers tonight as tomorrow, we hop on the bikes and head to Gouda.

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Not Have Carry On Will Travel

On this day in 2018 we were riding our bikes through Denmark. I have been rereading our posts from the Denmark bike trip as, in a few days, we are heading to The Netherlands and Belgium with our bikes. Definitely NOT Have Carry On Will Travel.

Murray has always wanted to go to Bruges, Belgium and finally decided it was time to go. “Oh, let’s ride our bikes there!” We are flying into Amsterdam, putting our bikes back together and riding on a route from Amsterdam to Gouda to Antwerp to Brussels to Ghent to Bruges to The Hague and back to Amsterdam. There are stops in small towns along the way. Our longest ride is about 64 km, our shortest is about 35 km. The most number of days of riding in a row, so far, is four. We do have some slush days to move things around, so we have some leeway.

Our first big stop is in Antwerp where we are meeting our German friend I. We will spend two full days exploring Antwerp and catching up with her. We are also spending extra days in Brussels, Bruges and The Hague. Our list of sites to see includes many art museums, as we love the old masters and modern art.

Packing panniers

I have used the packing lists from our Denmark trip to organize for this trip. We have 7 piles downstairs, all labelled – 4 for the panniers, 1 for Murray’s handlebar bag and two piles for bikes clothes we will be wearing. Oh, and another one for airplane stuff and bike tools that will stay in Amsterdam.

We have calculated how much weight both should be carrying and the split between front and back panniers. We test load up the panniers, weigh them, redistribute and then create a final packing list sorted by pannier. I will use this list to sort clothes and gear after we arrive in Amsterdam. It saves so much time and mental capacity. Once the list is made, we unpack everything and repack it into our suitcases, which will also carry the panniers and the bike racks.

We spend an afternoon tuning, cleaning and packing the bikes.

packing bikes

We have packed the suitcases and are basically ready to go. Next stop….Amsterdam.

all packed up
Definitely NOT Have Carry On Will Travel.

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Gold Coast

I love the Gold Coast. The weather, the vibe, the ocean and especially the beach.

Just before we left Edmonton, Gold Coast got hit by the edge of Cyclone Alfred. Our son, M, kept in touch and was preparing the house for the storm. Cleared the rain gutters, put away all the deck furniture and toys, put the garbage bins inside and caulked the windows. The authorities had requested that all residents shelter in place, so M worked from home and D and V stayed home.

When the storm hit, the winds were up to about 110 kph. The wind alternated with rain. The area around M’s house received about 600 mm of rain. Their house is on a canal and has a highish bank from the house level to the canal. The water level was up over the 4’ fence at the bottom of the hill and had crept 1/3 of the way up the hill. That’s a lot of water! Fortunately, the house sustained no damage.

Others were not so fortunate. About 66,000 properties lost power. Numerous trees that came down on property, causing damage. City parks had trees down everywhere. M told us city crews were driving around picking up garbage bins that had blown away of blown into the canals. The clean up is almost done now.

Gold Coast
The new narrower beach

The biggest area affected by the cyclone is the beautiful beach along the coast. Before the storm, there was a headwall (dune if you like) above the beach with sand ramps down to the beach and the water. This headwall got hammered and in some spots, the drop down to the beach was 20 feet. The ramps disappeared and sand on the beach also disappeared into the ocean. It is estimated that 4.0 million cubic meters of sand was lost along the whole Gold Coast beach. What was a nice wide beach is now a narrow beach about half the width. M says the sand is sitting just off the beach, making for great waves that the surfers are enjoying. The sand will eventually get pushed back onto the beach by the waves and tides, but it will take years. A dredging company has been hired for a 6 month contract to dredge as much sand up as possible. In that time they will only be able to gather a fraction of what was displaced. Bulldozers have replaced the ramps and Gold Coasters are once again enjoying their beach lifestyle and I am able to walk the beach that I love.

Gold Coast
Wave action over the deposited sand
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