Main Beach. D is lolling in the sun reading. Murray, M and I are in the water. I was smarter today and am wearing my sleeveless scuba diving “hoodie” made of neoprene to keep me warm. M is teaching me how to body surf.
Timing is everything! We try to catch the lip of the wave, just before it starts to break. Swim like he** for a few strokes and then extend arms and put hands together, like a surf board shape, and go for it!
I ride a few waves getting caught in the foam ball. Don’t get nearly as far as M does. Salt water up my nose every time.
The waves come in sets so we wait. Murray watches out to sea and warns us when they are coming.
M tells me about not getting caught at the very top of the wave as it will break and pummel a body surfer into the sand. Great. It is quite shallow, only about 2 feet of water in the trough between waves. Sure enough, I get caught on the wrong part of the wave and get nicely tossed around. Fortunately I do not hit the sand, just a huge nose full of water. Ouch, that burns!
M coaches me when to start swimming on the next wave and we both ride the wave for about 40 feet. WOW! That was amazing! I went as far as M did that time and could feel my body riding with the wave. Another nose full of water.
I think I have had enough water in my nose, so I frolic in the water as I make my way to shore. Even after all the salt water up my nose, I am eager to try body surfing again!